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Ok specs -5900x -rog crosshair 7 -strix 4090 OC rtx duh -xfx 6700 xt -quadro 4000 rtx -64g across 4 dimms, Corsair somethubg, 3600 -1500w seasonic (maybe Corsair) psu ok so before Christmas I’m using Nicehash to make passive income. Why not? I’m at 4$ plus minus constantly after Xmas suddenly it’s down to like 2$ played doctor and redid the loop, reseated the cards/ram. Hey even got my rgb and stuff working since the bottom of the motherboard is so tight of a fit for the quadro. Why they’d make it so difficult with a slim single slot card? Anybody’s guess. Another half inch or less woulda helped substantially reset the bios, confirmed all is stock (aside from the RAID arrays) went into Ryzen master, ensured all was “default” amd whatever, same no msi afterburner or anything basically removed all the iverckock settings and made sure resizeable BAR was enabked oh, newest bios (it was prior to Xmas also) and yea, clean windows. Squeaky clean. No messenger, no Facebook, no anything trash. Between taskman and msconfig (right?) it boots with bare minimums - no trash Game game on there presently is ghost runner 2 - has been since before also moving on, now I run Nicehash and the pc eventually “boop” off. Almost like something’s overclocked. Temps are in range, 60c under load as I have an excessive amount of radiators onky application running I DO have a 4090 (that funny plug) to pci/psu. Weirdly I have 3 of them and they all have 2 inputs rather than 3 for the power supply as the stock has three. Although it’s never been an issue given I’ve had the card for a year both powers for the ‘90 are on seperate rails. Given it’s 1500w, shouldn’t matter but why not? I’ve also disabled the 4090 and cpu from doing mining, just not the 6700/4000. Only cause the 4000 isn’t power hungry AND since it thermals I got it set so “nice” hash don’t hit 75c as 85 or 90 peaks it out and gives me rejection errors or whatever. Fans at 100 at all times so why is my hash rate (maybe) or payout so low after Xmas? I didn’t do anything aside from turn it on and hit go Then of course why does it “blow up” when benching the 6700 and quadro? Mind you this is maybe 15 mins of benching consistently, as in I didn’t hit pause and I wasn’t using the pc (Firefox, msft word, whatever). pump works fine. Although I forget, when I used the cpu for hashing (once) some reason the TDP was jumping around. 45, 60, 45, 80 (I set the max to 80 in bios) then it hit 104, then back to 60. Boop, blew up. Cpu temp too high, thanks asus for pointing out the obvious I haven’t had that issue happen again on the cpu or gpus. so…. What’s with the darn thing exploding? I’m quite confused and lost here Also tried installing (clean install, completely) the updated drivers for every card. The game ready ones possible it would work and better hash rates with studio? Dono I don’t think I attempted that. Be interesting to see though thanks for the help peeps! I haven’t even smashed the 4090 with kali yet. John the ripper, curl, aircrack, whatever the one is for hashing/decrypting RSA-1024 among others, hydra, yada yada

My custom-loop custom desk-pc-build, with all its 'customness' glory to be revealed when complete! Feel free to reach out if you have questions

ok long story short, asus x570 wifi viii or whatever. 5900x, used to be OC'd but since this problem, ugh. recently got a 4090 strix OC blah blah. tossed on a waterblock, now it fits. 1000w seasonic psu plus a 6700, 2x nvmes, 8x sata ssd's, i mean my case is packed full of stuff. prior to my 4090 install i had it overclocked at 4.9 running steady/stable. now just running nordvpn/utorrent my pc blows up randomly at 4.6ghz and nothing special in the bios - eliminating points of failure. the Q-code goes to 00, yet all the "rgb" stays lit up. force restart then shes ok for a good few hours. ill run these apps and swap my input to the ps5 and let the other 2 monitors display progress/taskman. utorrent even crashes randomly which is why i "need" the other 2 screens working - off of my 6700xt. weird thing is the last few days i have been on F1 2022 and it gets hot as (bleep) in here but the pc never crashes. I got tired of playing then swapped to safari/youtube. maybe an hour in the pc blows up again. Checked event log and its a bunch of ethernet trash before the random pc crashes. Its hard to tell the exact time of said crash due to the boot up taking less than 15 seconds. I imagine im drawing too much power? As i said i used to have this thing massively overclocked, not to mention a 6700xt (still inside), 6600 and a quadro 4000. Suddenly im having issues with a barebones "overclock"??? Ordered a 1500 platinum, that will be tons of fun... So how can I diagnose whats crashing the PC? It has to be power, i cant think of anything else that would have made such a change. Sure, pushing to 5.2 would explain a blow up - but 4.6 and no overclocking on either gpu? Should be noted my tor files goto the sata drives (raid) - so having 4 on raid 10 and 4 as global spares might also be cause for power issues... Ideas appreciated! Thanks peeps

Budget (including currency): $350-$400 USD Country: USA Other details: I need help finding/suggestions for a kit to water custom loop water cool a Gigabyte Waterforce 3080 that i am being given. I don’t mind if I have to cool the cpu with the same loop (would prefer to, but don’t have to if it’s over budget). This is my first custom loop. Below are the links to the card and the current set-up: https://tinyurl.com/9wpyechr https://pcpartpicker.com/list/CVkDK3 Thank you in advance for any help I receive.

- Newest Update - So my old system was getting a little long in the tooth and I was looking for a little more power to possibly try my hand at streaming. I also found myself with some involuntary time off due to the current global situation and put the last couple weeks to good use. Will update as parts are replaced/upgraded. PCpartpicker list - https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/banana_havoc/saved/#view=2gyRK8 And here's a link to my Reddit post with a video of the lighting - Cheers!

I'm going to buy a 5600x for my PC. Should I water-cool my pc (if yes, which one would you recommend?)

I have an intel i5 rig Not Being Used with 2x MSI 970's (4gb cards). Have been thinking about mining for a few years now. I was super hyped to mine ETH & then found out my card doesn't meet the min DAG file size. What is my best mining option with the 2x 970's (hardline watercooled)? Could Ravencoin be profitable? If not, than what other coin? ... I built a newer rig mid 2020 with a Ryzen 9 3950x, Radeon 5700 XT THICC III. Based on the value of pc hardware right now, I am contemplating selling this rig (or at least the core components) and investing the money into ETH. The current value of all components is ~ 5k . If I were to sell the new AMD rig, I would need to use the old Intel rig for my computing tasks, so I would be sacrificing mining on the 2x 970's. Or... option 3 (possibly the best option), I could go without a PC for a few months & use my laptop to complete my computing tasks while I invest 6k in Cryptos & start mining on 2x GTX 970s at the same time. I am a web developer who needs cashflow more than a nice setup at the moment, so this might be doable. And if I need the PC I can just stop mining and reinstall windows. (NEW RIG) Sell Parts?: PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 9 3950X 3.5 GHz 16-Core Processor $709.99 @ Newegg CPU Cooler NZXT Kraken Z63 98.17 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler $238.99 @ Amazon Thermal Compound Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5 g Thermal Paste $6.80 @ Amazon Motherboard MSI MEG X570 UNIFY ATX AM4 Motherboard $329.99 @ Newegg Memory G.Skill Trident Z Royal 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory $364.99 @ Amazon Memory G.Skill Trident Z Royal 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory $364.99 @ Amazon Storage Samsung 970 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $139.99 @ Amazon Storage Samsung 860 QVO 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive $206.52 @ Amazon Storage Samsung 860 QVO 1 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive $206.52 @ Amazon Video Card XFX Radeon RX 5700 XT 8 GB THICC III Ultra Video Card $1699.77 @ Amazon Case NZXT H510i ATX Mid Tower Case $96.99 @ Amazon Power Supply NZXT C 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply $129.99 @ Amazon Operating System Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit $139.88 @ Other World Computing Monitor LG 24UD58-B 23.8" 3840x2160 60 Hz Monitor $296.99 @ Adorama Monitor LG 32GK850F-B 32.0" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor $611.99 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $5544.39 Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-03-24 20:53 EDT-0400 (OLD RIG) Convert to Mining Rig? : PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU Intel Core i5-6600K 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor $198.88 @ Amazon Motherboard Asus SABERTOOTH Z170 S ATX LGA1151 Motherboard Memory Corsair Dominator Platinum 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory $167.91 @ Amazon Memory Crucial Ballistix 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL16 Memory $93.99 @ Newegg Storage Intel 530 Series 180 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive $193.79 @ Amazon Storage Seagate Nytro 5000 400 GB M.2-22110 NVME Solid State Drive $469.00 @ Amazon Storage Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $39.99 @ Newegg Storage Western Digital Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $39.99 @ Newegg Video Card MSI GeForce GTX 970 4 GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) Video Card MSI GeForce GTX 970 4 GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) Case Phanteks Enthoo Luxe ATX Full Tower Case Power Supply Corsair RM (2019) 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply $124.99 @ Best Buy Optical Drive LG WH16NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer $64.98 @ Amazon Operating System Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit $139.88 @ Other World Computing Case Fan Corsair AF140 Quiet 67.8 CFM 140 mm Fan $69.20 @ Amazon Case Fan Corsair SP120 Quiet 37.85 CFM 120 mm Fan Case Fan Corsair SP120 Quiet 37.85 CFM 120 mm Fans 2-Pack Case Fan Phanteks F140XP 85.19 CFM 140 mm Fan Case Fan Phanteks F140XP 85.19 CFM 140 mm Fan Case Fan Phanteks F200SP 110.1 CFM 200 mm Fan $17.99 @ Newegg Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $1620.59 Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-03-24 20:59 EDT-0400 Thoughts? This will be my first time mining & I do plan on building another rig after the price of hardware goes down. I am a bit concerned it won't, & I will be forced to buy parts at this inflated price- like anyone who wants to have a setup right now. Anyway. I have been contemplating this for a few days now. After watching hours of YouTube videos of enthusiasts mining 970's, consulting my housemates, my father, WallStreetBets, Atlas Trading, & the LTT discord... I have found myself posting here. I really would like to make the most out of this situation & I know I need to act fast. Thanks guys.

What is the best bang for the buck cooler for a 10700k?

Hello everyone, I’m trying to figure out how I can possibly find any of the asrock Aqua Motherboards. I’ve been obsessed with using it in my build and Cannot figure out how to buy one directly from asrock. I am looking to upgrade from a B550 mb and I think the Aqua is An excellent choice, however when I go to the website I can’t find a link to purchase one. Any Watercooled motherboard would be great. But I haven’t seen one other than this

Budget (including currency): 5000 euros Country: Belgium Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Hitman 3, Witcher 3, Forza, Call of duty, League of legends Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): https://pcpartpicker.com/list/xC2rBc I have sort of a gaming PC, It started of by just a work PC for 3D edits for work. That is why some of the parts in the PC had already been bought by my boss, meaning it was sort of assembled but required a few final touches. Like the CPU is not even suited at all for the use I have of the PC. What I am looking to upgrade is the CPU, GPU and most likely the Motherboard as well being that the new CPU would not be compatible. If possible I would also like to add a water cooling system in my PC. So as most of you know by now I have high hopes for the PC but not so much knowledge! Budget wise there is no limit, but no need to overdo it. Feel free to comment, pm, whatever it is you need to help me out! Thank you so much already!

I recently spilled some clear corsair XL5 coolant on the back of my EVGA 3080 Ti FTW3 HC. There was no power in the PC, the PSU was switched off and unplugged when this happened. I drained my reservoir and took off the tubes above my CPU. I quickly realized and took it out to dry the backplate. This backplate is like a cheese grater, it has holes everywhere and the liquid leaked through to the PCB. I dried it up using a hair dryer, and after I put a drop or two of 91% alcohol and then dried the alcohol shortly thereafter. I made sure it was completely dried out before I put in the PC to use it. It works completely fine, no fps dips, no weird smells, no artifacts, it is a completely fine card. But I then found out that the coolant even though it had been dried up, left a weird streak of the liquid path on the back PCB under the backplate where the liquid has spilled through. This dry streak of non existent liquid is pissing me off even though everything is fine, I think that because the coolant was thick, it left the streak. Should I worry about corrosion or rust? completely dry, but did leave a layer on the PCB. P.S: I would've unscrewed the Backplate to properly clean it up with 91% alcohol and a swab, but EVGA left a "friendly" warranty sticker on one of the backplate screws.

Budget (including currency): $2800 USD Country: Perú Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Autodesk Fusion 360 and Inventor rendering, Maya 3D, Lumion, CSP, heavy use of tabs in chrome, Steam games (Mass effect 3, deus ex md, etc) Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I have a Logitec mouse and keyboard that I still use and hasn't fail me yet plus a Asus zenScreen that will remain in use. But I really need a better PC to render 3D that doesn't need me to close everything but that program and leave it on like that for hours. I'm upgrading from a IdeaPad Lenovo so no other pieces will be carried over and I want this PC to last me at least 5 years before I need to upgrade it. I have tried assembling a PC with part picker (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/pz9J68) and I want some help with it to know if anyone knows better or more affordable parts that still will do the job. The most important thing is for it to last me a while, I really need it to be reliable as it will be used for work and for gaming.

I am running a over kill pc that does not run like it should: -RTX 3090 (water cooled) -Ryzen 9 5950x (water cooled) -b450 aurous motherboard -16G of RAM Preview attachment IMG_0592.jpg I am running battlefield 2042 with high settings at 1080p but it runs at 60-80 fps (I check the radiators, and they are not even hot, they are just warm) . If any one can help i would appreciate it.

Hey there, my new PC build is almost finished. My last parts I need for hard tubing will arrive later this day. But I got a question regarding leak testing and maybe someone knows some tips. I already found out that for leakage test, the best thing to do is let the pump run without anything else powering up. For that, there is a jumper connector for the 24pin motherboard cable. When it is attached, the PSU will start up but not the motherboard. Now if I flip the switch on the PSU it will power on. My fans will start spinning because the Fan controller unit is powered over SATA. But my pump won't. That is because my pump is connected to the pump header on the motherboard and will get its power from there. But since the motherboard won't get any power, the pump also won't start. I've looked around my cable stash I got from my old PC and also searched in the boxes from the new PC, but I couldn't find any connector that would allow me to plug the pump into the PSU. And now that's where you guys come in. Do you guys know what I can do to let my pump power on without cutting and soldering something together? Thanks in advance.

So as the title of this states my CPU is thermal throttling and as far as I can tell there’s no reason it should be as the temperatures reach no higher than 32c-40c. That’s when the computer is actually under use. So naturally it will get a bit hotter, but even before it started throttling the temperatures were identical to what they currently are. I’m not computer-inclined by any stretch so my ability to troubleshoot a multitude of possibilities is lacking. I’m only able to relay the information at its most basic level. Also, I will include a couple of screenshots highlighting the issue in a more in-depth manner. And, a photo of the temperature readout and other pertinent information in hopes it’ll help. Thank you!

Hello guys, Last week I upgraded my pc from a i7 6700k to an i9 10850k with a new Asus PRIME Z490-A motherboard. Before this upgrade the cpu wouldn't get above 60 degrees on maximum load. The cpu cooler is a pretty old corsair H150i pro RGB and isn't changed during the upgrade. After running cinebench for a few minutes the cpu reaches a temp in the low 90's. I have tried to replace the thermal paste with a few different brands but there is no difference. I have also seen someone mention the old corair AIO's don't properly make contact with thin pcb motherboard and need some washers, but this seems kinda odd to me. How could I isolate the problem or is it possible the AIO needs replacement? Specs: - Corsair iCUE 4000X RGB - Cooler Master Extension Kit White / Black - Intel Core i9 10850K - Asus PRIME Z490-A Motherboard - Gigabite 1080ti - Corsair Vengeance PRO RGB 16GB 3000MHz - Corsair H150i pro RGB - 750W Corsair power supply Greetings, Laurens

This is the same exact model of my GPU someone please help!!!: https://www.gigabyte.com/Graphics-Card/GV-N3090GAMING-OC-24GD#kf

Project Clean Cut Part selection: (Best Buy Purchased) MSI RTX 3080 TI Gaming X Trio ($1894) (Amazon Purchases) Corsair iCUE 5000X RGB Mid-Tower in White ($204.24) Corsair Vengance RGB Pro SL 32GB (4X8GB) 3600 Ram ($262.29) Samsung 980 1TB M.2 NVMe SSD ($131.32) Corsair iCUE SP120 RGB Elite White fans 1x($26.86) 3X($81.69) Pixio PXC327 32-inch 165hz 2560 x 1440 Monitor (2ed monitor) ($309.99) Corsair TM30 Thermal paste ($7.90) (Newegg Purchases) Asus ROG Z590-A Gaming Wifi ($329.99) Intel i9-10900KF ($437.99) EVGA 850 B5 Bronze PSU ($79.00) Sleeved Cable PSU Extension Cable Kit in White ($27.41) Samsung 980 Pro 1TB PCIe Gen4 M.2 SSD ($214.99) Water cooling parts: (Performance PC) Sigularity Computers Protium D5 Pump Cover-silver ($49.00) Channelz Corsair 5000X/D Side mounted Single D5 Resevoir-V2 with Protium Pump ($375.99) Bykski G1/4” Rigid 14mm OD 90 Rotary Fitting- white x6 ($63.00) Barrow 14mm Compression Fitting- white x12 ($59.40) Barrow G1/4” 45 Rotary Adapter- white ($15.90) EK-Quantum Velocity D-RGB CPU Block-frosted white plexi ($109.99) EK-Quantum Vector Trio RTX 3080-3090 Nickel + Acetal GPU Water Block-black ($179.99) EK Quantum Vector Trio RTX 3080-3090 Backplate- black ($45.99) (Corsair WC parts) Hydro X Series XR5 360mm Radiator- white x2 ($159.98) Hydro X Series XT Hardline 14mm Tubing Satin White ($85.96) (Amazon WC Parts) Barrow G1/4 Mini Valve-white ($15.95) Monsoon G1/4 Plug-White ($5.24) EK HFB- Barb Fitting 10mm for soft tubing fitting-nickel (drain not staying in build)($7.21) Barrow G1/4 Male to Male D-Plug fitting-white ($7.10) (Newegg WC Parts) EK-CryoFule Mystic Fog (conc. 250mL) ($14.99) Home Depot White Automotive Paint + $7.23 Total Spent $5187.61 +/- some shipping / tax cost All parts are in my possession or on order. Build Plan: My plan is to Repaint the front gray portion of the case along with the gray PCIe Slot covers on the back of the case to white, also I will be painting the backplate white as well. I am going to have 1 top mount 360mm rad and a front mount 360 rad. I am going to put the Reservoir on the back of the case open section of the case. I am going to keep the graphics card mounted in its normal arrangement and I will be turning the CPU block 90 degrees to allow the tubes to make straight runs. I will add more pictures once more of the parts have arrived.

Recently got a few rads (copper fins/brass tubes) that had been used with distilled water (and only distilled water) briefly and then were poured out and left sitting around for a long time (maybe a year total). They all have this white residue near the fittings- in the rad in the pictures I've attached, clear tubing had been left attached the entire year, and the whole tube has the same kinda white looking residue all along the remaining tubing. I got in there with a cotton swab and scraped at it, and the swab came out brown, so the residue makes the tubing and fittings look cloudy, but leaves a brown residue on the cotton swab. Could it have been from the rads themselves when any leftover water inside evaporated? My understanding is that they were barely used and just sat around in a cabinet- no way for much really to fall down into the tubes... They were used for less than a week before going into storage. Any advice or thoughts on what it is or how to clean it? My CPU/GPU blocks are nickel/copper. Was going to use distilled water/biocide in the loop this weekend. Thanks for any ideas!

Hi all, Simple question: Is the 10900X soldered? I delidded my 7800x, which used thermal paste, and the temps came down dramatically. But my 10900X, same loop, is running in the 80's. Done a little voltage offset to bring it down, but i'm not sure i want them that high in the first place. Any genuine answers are appreciated.

Started building this computer at the beginning of quarantine, modified it heavily to play with air-cooled components and give it its own character, including adding top and side panel exhaust fans. Ive been collecting parts to eventually water cool it, and realized I was running out of time before the components were completely last gen, so I went for it and water-cooled it last week. I ended up trying to replace the chipset fan and integrate it into the loop, which looks awesome, but I think is pointless, as the entire system heat soaks to 75 degrees and the loop starts heating up the chipset ( ) so ill be taking that out of the loop to see how it does with passive cooling. It all came together pretty nicely, and I realized soft tubing was the way to go for this, because I can actually manage to remove all of the components of the loop as one piece for maintenance I of course found this out, because I forgot to remove the plastic from the monoblock when I first installed it. Wondering if I should have gone with a more efficient front radiator than the Ultra Slim, if that would make a difference. Ive learned that likely because there's so little space and so little water in the system, this hits a point of totally heat soaked fairly quickly, but I'm satisfied with the system able to maintain 75 degrees. I do plan on continuing to work on this, possible adding a more efficient front radiator, better slim fans,(ive already ordered noctua) making a tighter seal between the radiators and fans, to get the most efficiency out of this I can. Possible down the road I might try and add quick disconnects to loop in an external radiator, I dont seem to feel satisfied without continued mad science and benchmarking... All ideas welcome! Pictures of my hugely fun waste of time and money below... LIAN LI TU150 - $99 ASRock X570 ITX TB3 - $200 RYZEN 3700X - $300 Gigabyte 5700XT Gaming OC - $450 Seagate FireCuda 520 M.2 1TB - $199 Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro - $140 Corsair SF600 - $100 Water Cooled Parts: XSPC TX240 Ultra Thin - $200 XSPC TX120 Ultra Thin - $50 Bitspower Mono Block - $150 Bykski 5700XT Gaming OC Waterblock - $120 Bykski Mini DDC Pump Reservoir Combo - $100 Bitspower Barb Fittings (1/4" ID) Softuuuubes Budget (including currency): Please don't make tally it up, ignorance is bliss. Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: All the Games, After Effects, Blender

Budget (including currency): 8500,00 € complete PC (250,00 € for ARGB Controller) Country: Germany Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Heavy Photo Editing (High Megapixel Panoramic Photos > 450 MPx), AAA-Gaming in 5120x1440p, 3d Rendering Other details: none Hi guys, I`m new to the forum. Since I was 11 (I`m 23 now btw) I've build every computer myself. I was not really a big fan of this whole RGB thing, therefore I do not know much about it and how it's all connected. This has changed since I saw a couple of builds I really liked. So for my new PC I wann go all out on RGB. Now here is my issue: I'll be running 4x 480 mm radiators with 4 "Alpenföhn 120mm Wing Boost 3 ARGB High Speed PWM-Fan" each. These Fans can be daisy chained and have 20 LED's per Fan (I did not find any official source, however I counted them froma Photo. Should be fine) So regarding all of this I have 80 LED's / radiator. As far as I concerned I need two controllers because of the two reservoirs in my build, also I might want to add some RGB-"Goodness" further down the line. My board will have two onboard USB. I'd really appriciate if you guys could tell me how you would do it. This would help me so much. Here is a detailed List of my components (Please note that i already bought the components marked with an "x") 1x x Raijintek Enyo Tempered Glass Showcase - black 1x x CableMod C-Series PRO ModMesh Cable Kit for Corsair 1x Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro black, DDR4-2666, CL16 - 128 GB (8 Sticks) 1x Asus ROG Zenith II Extreme Alpha 4x x EK-CoolStream PE 480 - black 1x AMD Ryzen Threadripper 3970X 1x EK-Quantum Momentum ROG Zenith II Extreme D-RGB - Plexi 2x x alphacool Eisfluegel Flowdisplay G1/4 - Acetal 8x x alphacool Eisrohr 13/10mm Hard-Tube Acryl (PMMA) - clear, 80cm 2x x Raijintek ANTILA D5 EVO RBW Pumpe with AGB, ARGB - black 12x x Alpenföhn 120mm Wing Boost 3 ARGB High Speed PWM-FAN 1x x 5L Aqua Computer Double Protect Ultra blue 1x x 5L Aqua Computer Double Protect Ultra red 16x Bitspower Multi-Link Adapter straight G1/4" AG to 12mm 2x Bitspower Valve 1x IG 1/4 Zoll & 1x G1/4 Zoll AG, turnable- matt 2x x EK-AF Adapter T-Splitter 3x G1/4 Zoll IG - black 2x x XSPC Plug with Temperature sensor G1/4" 2x x SATA 3 Cable 30cm - sleeved black 4x x Bitspower Multi-Link Adapter 90° G1/4" AG to 12mm 1x x Sleeve Small - Carbon BTI, 1m 2x x Samsung 980 PRO 1 TB PCIe 4.0 2x Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut Thermalpaste - 11,1 Gramm / 3 ml 1x EK-Quantum Vector TUF RTX 3080/3090 D-RGB - Nickel + Acetal 1x x EK-Quantum Vector TUF RTX 3080/3090 Backplate - Black 1x Asus GeForce RTX 3090 TUF GAMING In case youre wondering. I bought the parts wich where available. Also I plan to finish this PC in May of 2021 so that I have no stress. Yes this is a two loop sytem. It's just for the looks. If you could just provide me some info about how to connect this whole ARGB Stuff, I'd be very happy! Thank you very much!

I own a 60W C02 Laser from China. As the technology increases we see more of this technology becoming more affordable and widely available, like GlowForge. I know your team has some machinist and maybe they would love this idea. Im looking for alternative routes to keep my laser cool. It is already liquid cooled as most are, however, it is archaic tech. Most use "water chillers" some use a bucket with distilled water and freeze packs. I think maybe since water cooling PCs are hit or miss, maybe the gaming community can use PC parts on an industrial laser to keep it water cooled to spec. Would make for a great episode, plus your guys get something cool for the shop and then someone with proper equipment knowledge and ability to explain why or why not this would work can answer my question, it is possible? Or at least build an RGB GAMING *said in linus's gamer voice* c02 laser

in a couple ltt episodes linus mentioned a water cooled ps5. what ever happened to that idea? @LinusTech

Hey all, So I’m upgrading my exotic build, no need for specs. Right now she’s shoved in a O11 dynamic “XL” (really not, extra large…) with a bunch of radiators n so on just got a TT View 71 case. Very familiar with it since I did a prior build for my daughter using it. It’s so large, I’m upset I’m using the O11. Anywho, is there a product out there that cools water similar to a refrigerator? That is r-34 refrigerant along with a controller? Just wondering out of curiosity. I have enough room (prob) or externally to run water lines. I only ask cause my kids build has geez, uh, 3x 360 rads, 1x 140 and a d5 500ml pump/res - much larger case as I said. Mine, has a distro plate, 3x 360s and a 120. Regardless of how many fans I shove in there (2500rpm always on 100%) I peak around 57-61c. Overclocked Cpu and gpu, both with monoblocks. don’t know if anybody’s ever done something like this before, toss in a condenser to chill water…. Aside from all the scientific junk like condensation (I’ll figure something out), wondering if anybody has pulled this off before my other idea was to run lines outside the pc then simply into a gigantic water jug (more volume is better… not really) with a submersible water pump - but that would be like 10 gallons a minute, lot a bit overkill. Way too much water pressure Other idea was to get a few radiators, a not so powerful pump, then shove the rads infront of an air conditioner… anybody got suggestions? I’ve even considered having two seperate loops, submerge my water radiators into mineral oil, then loop the oil through a radiator or two. But then I figured I’d reach ambient (average, whatever it’s called) temperature anyways. Just cause oil don’t transfer heat so quick don’t mean in a few hours it won’t be as warm as the water. Besides, my thermals would be (presuming) the same as the mineral oil so yeah, a condenser from a refrigerator is my thought on this one. U know, oh I want cold water. Shove a glass in the front of a fridge and bam it’s cold. I’d like something like that. I can figure out the details/construction/logistics later. Just wanna know if something like this exists thanks!