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Hello, I've been trying to mount a Barrow LTPRP-04l S (mini) block/pump onto my LGA-2011-3 narrow socket Intel/asrock motherboard. I am having trouble finding a mounting plate that is suitable, the AMD plate included with the pump was close but ultimately unuseable, even if modified due to the positioning limitations. However I came across this old EK Supremacy LGA-2011 Mounting Narrow mounting plate that looks like it could be a really good option... but being discontinued I can't find it anywhere. Has anyone got one or is able to help me find one? I've attached a picture of what I'm looking for. Thank you!
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- lga 2011-3
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Budget (including currency): 5000€-6000€ Country: Catalonia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Machine Learning, CAD, Rendering, playing Monitors Double monitors in programmer configuration, left(auxiliary) vertical, right(main) horizontal Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Mobo: MSI MEG Z790 ACE MAX EATX LGA1700 Motherboard CPU: Intel Core i9-14900K 3.2 GHz 24-Core Processor CPU Cooling: Optimus Foundation Intel CPU block RAM: VENGEANCE® RGB 96GB (2x48GB) DDR5 GPU: NVIDIA Founders Edition GeForce RTX 4090 24 GB Video Card GPU Cooling: HEATKILLER V PRO for RTX 4090 FE - ACRYL Ni-Bl aRGB Frontal radiator: EK-Quantum Surface S560 - Black Fans: NF-A14 industrialPPC-24V-3000 SP IP67 PWM Case: DIY aluminum-wood case Hello ladies and gentlemen, I am creating this thread to share with you my DIY computer plan. I want to build a personal workstation for home that will allow me to code my machine learning projects, do CAD and render 3d models. Additionally, I will also use the machine to play, but that will be minimal. I want this pc to serve me for a long time so after months of investigation I have decided to choose the MSI MEG Z790 ACE EATX as the core of this build. I believe this mobo will grant me a good balance between RAM size and RAM speed. It will also allow me to add a second GPU in the future and has thunderbolt4 capability, which was a must for me in order to perform fast external data transfers. I was considering other options such as: Z790 AORUS TACHYON , Z790 AERO G , ProArt Z790-CREATOR WIFI or EVGA Z790 CLASSIFIED, 121-RL-E798-KR, LGA 1700, Intel Z790. I am designing a DIY pc case. The concept of the case is to maximize airflow while at the same time I can count on a large area to radiate heat with a water loop. The case is tall and slim to promote natural circulation of warm air from bottom to top. Also, it looks nice. Top will exhaust, bottom will intake, and frontal side will fit a quad noctua fan ekwb radiator. I am attaching the first sketches of the case. I will be expanding this thread shortly. Current state (21/11/2023): Current state (19/12/2023): Current build state (05/03/2024):
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Hello, i have weird problem and i no idea what doesn't work. Firstly my specs: Gigabite 1660 6GB (rip) Aorus Z490 ELITE AC I7-10700K 2x DDR4 16Gb 3200MHz Silentumpc 750W Windows 11 So my cat spilled water yesterday on my pc (don't judge me, it was pretty far from it), i turn it off instantly and left it near heater over night. Water was only in upper radiator and on gpu backplate. Today i turn it on and gpu just killed itself, smoke from display port. After that i wanted to check what works. Pc and bios turning on without problems, cpu, ram and ssds are listed in bios and looking fine, all lights, pump and fans are on, but system doesn't want to boot. While booting from ssd with OS it's in "preparing automatic repair" loop, booting USB with installation media is just loading and loading without progress I tried: CMOS Cycling ram Gpu is unpluged Different ports Without ssds and hdds Disabling Secure boot/CMS Unplugging, plugging cables Booting linux on usb Reseting BIOS Any ideas what can be potentially broken? I don't have second pc to individually diagnose my parts. Sorry about late responses but i'm tired, mad and I will be tomorrow, Thanks
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I've been trying to find an aio which is fairly quiet and has a good cooling performance from a reliable company, the max i would be willing to spend is around £160, i only need a 240mm one and would like one with an ldc screen (not a definate requirtement) or good looking rgb. Looks are important so I'm not going with arctic's aios since i dont like the look of them. Has anyone got any suggestions? Any help is appreciated
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Hello there! I am thinking about buying an old GTX 1080 Ti Asus Poseidon model. It is the hybrid card, and it has two ports for the tubes, with a pre-installed water block. I am wondering if I can use a standard aio with the pump in the dead space of the radiator, and detach the water block and put fittings to connect it to the two openings on the card? Or am I just stupid. Thanks in advance. PS: what are those connectors called? Barbs or something?
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UPDATE: While downloading important files to an external drive, all of a sudden, things seemed to be going suspiciously smoothly. Scrolling seemed instantaneous. Opening folders was snappy. What could be happening?!? I checked Task Manager and then HwInfo, both reporting nominal CPU operation. I'm over the moon thrilled right now. Given this is my college laptop, I don't really have the money to drop on a replacement right now. My VERY speculative guess on how it fixed itself: I was playing subnautica when I spilled the water, so the laptop definitely had active threads, memory, unsaved progress, etc. It was only once I started digging into the subnautica folders under steam in my C drive that it magically fixed itself. I don't have a deep understanding of the topic to draw genuine conclusions, but I suspect it could have realized there were issues relating to those folders/files, and reset to a save state once I started digging in those files, which somehow solved the root issue. Alternatively, this could just be coincidental timing of a super lucky event. Either way, my woes seem to be gone for now. Huge thank you to everyone who gave suggestions and advice below. I learned a lot through this process. Original Post: I have a dell XPS 13 inch, running an i5-1135G7, 512gb SSD, 16 gigs ram, and intel Iris Xe. It runs windows 11 64 bit and is currently on bios version 3.11.0. This is primarily my college laptop, but being home for break I’ve done some light gaming on it. While gaming, I spilled water on the keyboard, enough to get in pretty much everything. The laptop instantly shut off, and I dried it out as much as possible. I was able to get it to turn on into a bios update, which bios logs show failed 4x before the final success. It then shut down until I took it apart, removing every last bit of water, cleaning up with isopropyl, and removing/installing the battery. After reassembly, it ran through a series of RGB on the display and then booted to windows, which shocked me. It seemed ok but very slow. Some digging into the task manager showed me it was running at 0.19 ghz, or 8% CPU frequency almost constantly. The ram, SSD, Wi-Fi, and Iris Xe seem completely fine. I removed and re-installed the battery twice more to see if that would solve things, but nothing changed. I ran an intel CPU diagnostic tool, which came back with everything as a “pass” and even showed that it recorded 2.41 ghz on the cpu frequency test, which surprised me (result image attached). Following various other forums, I messed with dell power, fan, and thermal throttling settings (setting to the most intensive I could). I also went into the bios and changed two of the “smart, adaptive power” settings (I forget the proper names, but they didn’t change anything). Using resource monitor, I found that the “maximum frequency” was pretty constant at 8%, though it occasionally jumped to 10-12% which surprised me. Lastly, I booted in safe mode, and while it was still slow, the task manager and resource monitor there showed the proper 2.41 ghz and 100% frequency. This confuses me because the speed in safe mode suggested it wasn’t any faster. One forum post I came across claimed that reverting to an older bios version solved a similar issue, so that might be a route for me to explore, as it did automatically update bios in the midst of this all. I plan to backup important files on an external drive and probably factory reset if I can’t find a good solution. Note- the laptop never physically got very hot during these processes, so besides a broken sensor, I doubt it would be thermally throttling here. I also confirmed that the fans do work normally if the laptop gets hot, which also suggests it’s not just thermal throttling. (The fans only briefly came on while in the BIOS).
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Hello everyone! I am upgrading my setup since I didn't do a rly good job at the last, but i was thinking of adding water cooling to my setup, the big cpu cooler is kinda boring. if i go water cooling its only gonna be the cpu for now. But I was searching and came across IAO and custom, I'm tempted to go for custom maybe to upgrade later on and more customizations. I am looking for a 3 fan rgb radiator and a cpu cooling block, with a pump combo. the pump is the only extra thing from the IAO but I will spend 200+ euro more when going custom. can anyone help me out with a solution to go IAO or custom and if custom help me out with parts (I have a Sharkoon tg5 case so 3 fan should be okay), I don't have a really big budget, I am also going for the i7 13700kf hope some of you can help me, Thank you for your time! And have a nice day
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I was cleaning a stain in my 27 inch 1440p ROG monitor when stupid me decided to clean the stain with water and a soaked q-tip. When I cleaned it the water, obviously, it dripped on the side I was cleaning and a small amount of water seems to have gotten into the crevice of the monitor casing. I say it seems because when I observed the crevice there where some small droplets of water in there. In order to clean them I used a sheet of paper to get into the crevice, but I'm not sure if that was a good idea and maybe the paper transfered some small amount of water to other parts on the inside. After all that, now I'm paranoid about possible water damage that may have entered the monitor and damaged something. Everything seems perfect, no display anomalies, the buttons work fine, the powered on and standby led works, and the ROG logo rgb works. I've been using it the for the whole day and the situation occurred yesterday. Is it probable is that some kind of corrosion happened? I know I shouldn't worry too much, especially since it works fine, but I would like to hear opinions, which helps to calm my ocd
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I left my PC beside an open window when it rained (was rushing out of the house to help with an emergency). When I got back the side of my PC was really wet but after inspecting the internals, the side panel looked to take most of the water and the inside of the PC was dry. I immediately cut power to the power bar and dried the drenched table and everything connected. I didn't believe any water should have gotten into my system so after unplugging the system and throwing lots of silica packs into the system and blowdrying the PSU for a few minutes I powered it on for abit to see if there was anything off (this was because I thought everything was dry). After a minute or two, I began hearing a low humming sound I've never heard from my system before. I've since, shut down the system, took out the PSU unit and threw it in a bag with some silica packs. I am wondering how to figure out if my PSU has been water damaged. How long should I keep my PSU in the silica drying bag for, and what symptoms would appear if it was water damaged?
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- powersupply
- help
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Hey there! So i was trying to clean the cpu cooler and a drop of water fell from the ceiling. It touched the aluminum dissipator and splashed like two smaller drops on the side of the am4 socket (photo), it was still with the aluminum dissipator attached so no drops touched directly on the pins. I tried to dry it all with little pieces of napkin, absorving the drops until i didn't see more water. Tried putting it in the gap between the socket and the board too. Is there any risk if i try to turn it on? Could the water have touched the pins if it got into that small gap?
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TLDR - It's Takeya Usa. But some backstory first. I work at a pool at a decently well-known resort. We get tons of clientele from all over the place. Clients like Edward Jones investments, Phillips (yes, the medical company) and Robin hood are all among companies that come and stay, have meetings, ect. While cleaning the pool today, doing as I do, I came across a particular water bottle that I thought looked very familiar, but didn't think much of it UNTIL I got home. I went to lttstore and low and behold, it's the same lid and what I assume to be the same body, albeit with a different external coating than the ones that are actually shipped. I've included photos of my findings attached to this post. Some interesting things to note: - The bottle isn't dated, but it stays "Patent Pending" on the bottom, so I don't know how old or new this design is specifically. - The silicone ring around the screw top is gray, as compared to lttstore's black ring - It appears that the metal body is 40oz while the lttstore one is 41oz - The hydrophobic coating on this bottle is not as good as reviews of an lttstore bottle would suggest for a legitimate one, but I'll have to wait for mine to come in. - It also appears that takeya either no longer sells or has yet to sell the 2nd gen lttstore screwtop, as the one on their site is a different version. Easy enough to check just by going to their website. The bottle I found is a little scratched up, but I think that the proof is in the pudding. If this post gets enough traction, I'll probably end up posting a review of the differences for everyone to see. This is also NOT at all a suggestion or recommendation to NOT buy an lttstore water bottle!! I actually bought one! this is just something interesting I wanted to share with the community. This is also in NO WAY an attack on LMG or anyone who worked to design prints and worked with manufacturers for the actual lttstore bottle, so PLEASE DO NOT take it as such. Have a great day!
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- lttstore.com
- waterbottle
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So i spilled som iced tea on my laptop it fell on the keyboard and the laptop was on stand by i flipped it so it wouldn’t get to the insides i have managed to desasembly most of it even get the motherboard out for the keyboard i got the keys out and cleaned with isopropil alcohol and a toothbrush i did this with all the motherboard what should i do now?
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I dropped water in an HP envy x360 laptop. After drying it, it opened and everything was almost ok. Windows is running and all BUT it is very slow (the CPU clock is kept at the minimum) , the fans are running at 99%, I cant get a reading on the battery level AND the battery temperature showed in the BIOS is 69 thousand degrees C! I assumed that all those problem are related to the laptop panicking and thinking it is going to catch on fire. I replaced the battery and nothing changed. Water must have shorted a part of the motherboard and is now not able to read information given by the battery. I thought of asking the BIOS to not take into account the battery temperature or overwriting it with a 30 degrees C value but I can't find any info on that online. What are the solutions? Do you have any ideas? Edit 1: it has been fully disassemble, dried and the corrosion have been cleaned with alcohol (there was corrosion on the battery connector). I think I have done everything on the hardware part except replace the motherboard. So I am searching more for a software solution.
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CPU AMD Ryzen 5950x Motherboard Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Dark Hero RAM G.SKILL Trident Z Royal Elite Series 64GB (4 x 16GB) 3600Mhz CL14 DDR4 GPU EVGA Nvidia 3080 ti FTW3 and Gigabyte Nvidia 1050 ti Physx Card Case Corsair 7000X RGB Storage Samsung 980 PRO 2TB, Samsung 970 EVO Plus 2TB, Samsung 870 EVO 4TB, Dual Western Digital 8TB Black HDD PSU EVGA Supernova 1200 P3, 80 Plus Platinum 1200W Display(s) Dual Alienware 38" 3840x1600 144Hz, Samsung 65" 8k Q800 Cooling Corsair XD7 w/ EKWB Monoblock, EKWB GPU block and EKWB active backplate; Dual Corsair 360 Radiators Keyboard Corsair k100 OPX Mouse Mad Catz R.A.T. 8 Sound Creative Soundblaster AE-5 with Corsair SP2500 2.1, Logitech PRO headphones Operating System WIN10 PRO Laptop MSI G73 Raider 11UH-053 *[Samsung EVO Plus 2TB M.2 and Kingston FURY Impact 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4 2933 MHz CL17 UPGRADES] Phone Samsung Fold 3 TMobile 5G
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Budget (including currency): $1,000.00 USD I am looking at a custom corsair water cooling loop for icue software 14mm hard tubeing D5 pump/ reservoir combo 3x 360mm Radiators CPU: 5950x w/ EKWB Monoblock for the asus strix x570-E GPU: EVGA 3080 ti HYDROCOPPER case : 5000X RGB Do i need a distribution plate? Do i need any special fittings? how would you run this loop?
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Hi all, I have an old Fire Phone from launch (you may laugh). A year or 2 after I got it, I left it out in the rain. Haven't bothered since to try and fix it or anything, considering it won't turn on and it was left out over night in the rain (I can't believe I could even do something like this). Anyway, just for fun I thought I'd try to retrieve the data off of it to see my cringey photos from 2014. I already own phone repair kit with the relevant screw bits and everything. Again, I'm sure this is a total wash if the mobo is fried, and I don't really know how storage works on a mobile device. I've tried connecting it to my PC with USB and it's not reading anything. Replacement batteries are only like 10 bucks on Ebay. Any thoughts? Thanks for any help you can give.
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the name of the PC i build will be called, "dreamin" a 4k gaming/ streaming/ editing workstation Budget (including currency): $10,000.00 USD (10k) Country: Murika' Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Resolve with 10 bit 4k video files, StreamLabs OBS, Crysis, borderlands, Diablo 2:R, C.O.D. Warzone Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): This is the newegg wish list: https://newegg.io/8509b5b MoBo - ASUS ROG Strix X299-E Gaming II RAM - G.SKILL Z Royal Elite 64GB (4 x 16GB) 3600 (CL 14) CPU - Intel Core i9-10980 XE (18c 32t ) AIO - Corsair H150i ELITE 360mm GPU - NVIDIA EVGA GeForce RTX 3080 Ti FTW3 HYBRID COPPER WC - CORSAIR Hydro X Series iCUE XH305i PSU - Seasonic SYNCRO 850w 80+ Platinum SSD - SAMSUNG 980 PRO 2 TB (boot) SSD - SAMSUNG 970 EVO+ 2 TB (media) SSD - SAMSUNG 870 EVO 4TB (storage) HDD - WD Black 8 TB (back-up) Sound Card - Creative Sound BlasterX AE-5 Plus Capture Card - Elgato 4k60 PRO Mk.2 PhysX Card - CORN GTX 750 CASE - Corsair 5000X RGB APC - APC BX1500M RGB - LIAN LI STRIMER PLUS 24 PIN Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut WIN X PRO Monitor - Samsung Odyssey G7 Headset - Logitech G Pro X Keyboard - Corsair K70 Mk.2 MX Speed Mouse - Mad Catz R.A.T. 8 Upgrading From A Dell Inspiron 7559S Notebook CPU - intel i7 4c4t @ 3ghz GPU - Nvidia 960m RAM - HyperX 16GB ddr3 2133mhz SSD - Samsung 860 Evo 1TB x2 Monitor - 16" 4k Touchscreen I am buying this next month and would like any advice is appreciated. i need to play games 1440p @ 240 FPS and edit 10-bit 4k up to 120 mins. I want to turn the case side panal into a LCD transparent screen eventually; is this possible?
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Hey all. Was considering putting this in the "new builds + planning" category but figured this one may be a better fit. So I've had my rig since November. Absolutely love it. 5800x + 3070FE. While it's definitely still a crazy powerhouse, I'm looking to pimp it up a little bit. Not necessarily performance / core component wise, but primarily just adding a bit of personality. I've always been all about that personality in the stuff I own (that's right baby, dbrand all the things). Since taking this photo, I've put some electrical tape over the pink stickers on the lower sata ports and around the front panel connector cables on my motherboard, but that's about it. I'm definitely looking into some cablemod cables at the moment. Custom fan grills and GPU backplates are also definitely on my radar. I'm mostly looking for any suggestions on what you have done / know what can be done to add the extra bit of personality to my rig. Would love any and all ideas! Thanks yall for your time. Appreciate it Thanks! - Max "professional misallocater of funds" Parker
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So.... Trying to make a PC for my buddy. Scored a kraken x40 aio water cooler with a bunch of fans and an 850 wt power supply for 100 bucks.. Anyways. I bought an asrock b450m hdv r4.0 motherboard and noticed in the manual that it had 1 CPU fan header, and 2 chassis fan headers. Am I able to make this work? I'll attach pics of the cooler. I also got some fan splitter hubs on the way.
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- watercooling
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I've taken apart & rebuilt old Dells many times & have experience with all the below programs on my Dell Precision laptop but after my cpu hit 87 degrees celsius I decided I should build a pc. I want to build a barebones powerful workstation with room to grow. Then I saw on TEC1-12715 DC12V & immediately thought of these Aluminum Water Cooling Block 40x200mm & figured with some fans, heatsinks, thermal paste, & tinkering I could make a soft-line below ambient water loop for the same or lower price than a hardline waterloop kit (curse those expensive fittings). Anyone ever tried this, any advice or recommendations? How do you power the peltier chips? I know a pc psu can supply that much power but I don't know if it can handle the number of chips I'd need to get below ambient or the resistance, I'm fine with running a second psu & analog fan &/or chip controller if that simplifies things. I have a few ideas, this 12V TEC1-12706 DIY Thermoelectric Peltier Cooler cools air & the peltier chips are cooled by fans & an internal heatsink fin array. In theory reversing the polarity would cool the radiators & produce hot air exhaust, I could also use the aforementioned TEC chips, aluminum blocks, heatsinks (like this 100mm (L) x40mm(W) x20mm (H) Heat Sink), case fans, & scrap metal to make something like the DIY Cooler exactly how I want it. Prospective build: Ryzen 9 5950x, ATX, M2 ssd, Quadro P4000, custom case alternatively: threadripper pro 3975x, EATX, Quadro P4000, custom case Budget (including currency): <400 Country: USA Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Inventor, Autocad, Stella Architect, VPN, ISP, Programming, Adobe Illustrator, Podcasting, 4k Video Editing in NCH
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- tec
- thermoelectric cooling
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So I recently aquired a 3950X. I knew going in that it would be a hot chip. But my Zalman CNPS20X [Noctua Fans] isn't cutting it. I could go AIO but I figured why not go for it and make a custom loop. In my personal aesthetics I dont like the normal reservoirs. They're a little clunky. Now, 5.25" Bay Reservoirs.. Oh man. These things are the bees knees. I love the cleaner look that they can provide and give you room for drives and long long GPUs. My issue is finding one. These things are rare. From a more by gone era of computing. I really want this one. Link: https://www.frozencpu.com/products/16942/ex-res-421/XSPC_Twin_D5_Dual_525_Bay_Clear_Reservoir_-_w_Dual_MCP655_Series_Pumps_Installed.html?gclid=CjwKCAjwkN6EBhBNEiwADVfya3TESdjzTK2mJxGciSPXCUr0RYkn3bAThyPfpxa5iMF45I1QDu8eLRoCI0kQAvD_BwE#blank The pumps installed preferably. Its been an age since Ive heard of Frozen CPU. I don't know if they're still around. Anyone who has any leads to one please let me know. I would love to start clocking this chip soon. Thank you all!
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Summary A new "super hospital" is being built in Aalborg, Denmark with a rather interesting indoor climate solution: leading a pipe from a nearby chalk-basin to the hospital to utilize the waters cooling effect. With the ambitious goal of being the most energy efficient and climate-friendly hospital in the world, this solution should reduce CO2-emissions compared to traditional cooling by 80-90%. Quotes are translated for your convenience since the article is in Danish. Quotes My thoughts Forget all about watercooling your pc's and office chairs. While i know this teeters the line between "tech" and i guess plumbing(?) the article does talk about this being a technologically driven solution. It will be interesting to see if this could start replacing the harmful air-conditioners which are so popular around the world, despite being walking-talking environmental hazards. At least if it's scalable beyond just one big building and you happen to live near a large cool body of water. Sources Tv2 Nord - Reputable local danish news site. Contains video of the pipe being lowered if that's of any interest.
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Budget (including currency): Country: Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc):