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I have an older pc (amd athlon x3) and it used to work just fine but now it won't boot from either the Windows 10 installed on the hard drive or or from the USB Windows installation tool. I can see both devices in the bios and whichever I select, it just shows a blinking cursor in the top left. I did use the hard drive on another computer and had the same problem, reinstalled Windows but after that it worked fine and I can't reinstall Windows on this one because it won't boot from the the USB either. I tried clearing CMOS and reinstalling the latest bios but no result

Hi. I bought a new case (Corsair 4000D) and motherboard (TUF B550) and the case comes with front USB C and USB A ports, but the motherboard doesn't have a native USB C header. I thought getting a Y splitter for the USB 3.0 header + an adaptor from USB 3.0 to USB C would fix everything, but it isn't working. I plugged the Y splitter to the mobo in its USB3.0 header, then the case's USB A and USB C cables to each side (with an USB3.0 A to USB C addapter for the latter) and tryed them but the PC doesn't recognize any devices properly. That is it recognizes something's been connected, but tags it as if it was malfunctioning, in either port on the front panel. I've already tried trying device manager to disable/re-enable, uninstall and update those devices and look for hardware changes. Nothing. This is only affecting the front panel usb ports; mobo I/O ports work normally (even with the same usb devices i'm testing the front panel ports). System details: Windows 10 pro Ryzen 9 5900x Asus TUF B550-plus wifi (bios 2803) 32 gb hyperx fury ddr4 3200mhz ram gpu Rx 5700 XT red devil boot drive: pcie m.2 gen 3 500 gb other storage: 1 x gen 4 pcie m.2 (1 tb) and 2 x hdd (2+2 tb) psu corsair rm750x case: corsair 4000d airflow

Hi there, I often have friends over in my living room to play games on my PC. I have to bring my PC down from the office, which is just upstairs of the living room. I'm not sure if it's crazy or if there's a better way to do this, but I thought of crawling up a USB 3.0 Extension cable(which I don't have yet) in the ceiling, connecting it to my PC and to a Multiple USB port (that I already have) in the living room to plug our xbox controllers. I already have an extremely long HDMI cable that I could also fit in the ceiling hole from the TV to my PC. This way I won't have to bring my PC downstairs every gaming night. Any suggestions? Thanks

Hi friends. I have a new Asrock Z790 Pro RS Motherboard. I just built this PC and everything works perfectly. Now time to fine tune a few things here and there. When I turn my computer off when I'm done using it, the motherboards RGB and anything connected to the USB's are still powered up. My PC is in my bedroom and in order to sleep I have to turn the power off on the PCU. I have done a few hours of research, even emailed Asrock. They have not responded yet, its one of their newest motherboard so not much help on YouTube or google search results. I did check my BIOS and do not have the Deepsleep feature or anything with ErP or USB power. I did however find a way to turn off the RGB on the motherboard. Unfortunately on or off are the only options and USB's are not affected by the selection. Any suggestion is much appreciated.

Hey Guys, Thank you for reading - I need some help in identifying the best way to connect a older 6GB HDD. Context: This is a HDD from an old iRiver recorder that has stopped turning on. I've taken the HDD out and looking to connect to windows, and fingers crossed, it pops up like a removable HDD. It currently uses a flat flex ribbon cable, ATA-33 connector, however I'm struggling to find an adapter that would allow me to plug this into either a USB port, SATA, or even simply copy the data to flash storage. I've found something similar (Converter) for Toshiba drives, but am struggling for this drive. I've contacted seagate's tech support who suggested I many need to daisy chain adapters, but did not give any further details on the type of adapters required. I've added some pictures, any advice or guidance here? Model: ST650211FX Connector: ATA-33 More information: https://testhdd.com/Seagate-ST1-Series-ST650211FX-hard-drive-5-GB-ATA-33-17.html

I am looking for a full mic setup that costs less than 100$ for everything, with a decent sounding mic. When I say full setup I am meaning stuff like: the mic itself, the interface if its not usb, the mic arm, cables if not included, and (not really as important to me, but pop covers). Preferrably this would be a usb-a connection at the end, but usb-c works too (no 3.5mm recommendations into the pc) I am mainly going to so this for streaming and gaming (I was thinking about dabbling in asmr a bit, but i may end up not doing that so it a low priory). I mainly play rhythm games so the clicking of the keyboard is definitely a factor that I need in consideration of the mic.

I was given this none brand USB (16GB), and tried to install ubuntu 22.10 on it. I made the partitions and all but after launching the installation process, the installer halted for a while before throwing an error "Errno 30 : Read only file system" I went back to windows and tried to access the usb, but i was met with one parition with garbled symbols as the name. I tried using Diskpart and clean the drive but nothing worked, i tried using a third party software but nothing. Is there any way i can fix it?. Unfortunately i can't find the name of the brand.

I have this scenario whenever the fridge automatically turns off and on, the power fluctuates affecting the 650va ups, nothings wrong with the ups, it does the job well (can be heard clicking every time the power fluctuates), the problem is the PC's attached usb devices, keyboard, mouse, and game controller are disconnected and connected back every time the power fluctuates. What would be a good fix for this? I know that one of the factors is where I am located, when I was on my mother in law this pc don't experience this problem, but now I'm back in the mountain It happens.

So i just built a new computer and it runs smoothly, but when i turn it off all my USB devices and one mobo light in the bottom right corner still have power even tough i have disabled it in the bios. I have everything disabled in the USB section by default. I haven't updated my bios because it think i have missed some setting (i haven't poked around in bioses very much before.). My specs https://pcpartpicker.com/list/QfYpLs

Hi everyone I hope you all are doing well. So basically I have a problem with my front IO Ports. I just did a fresh Installation of Windows 11. I had Windows 11 on it and everything was working perfectly. So the problem is that my front IO ports (2x USB 3.0) is only working with USB Sticks. Other stuff like Mouse and Keyboards aren't working anymore on my front IO ports. In device manager I did update and reinstalling the drivers but without success. I am really lost and I would appreciate some help. Thank you everybody and I hope you guys can enjoy the Christmas time. Cheers ___ PC specs: Fractal Define Mini C Gigabyte Z390 AORUS Pro WIFI Intel Core i7-9700k Sapphire Radeon RX 580 Pulse 32GB Ram Windows 64bit operating system

soooo finished my setup a couple months ago and started having this issue lately. happened both during windows 10 and 11 -Every time my main monitor/pc sleeps, my audio from my audio interface cuts out and makes horrible pop sound. -Corsair iCue controlled fans stop running their RGB mode and get stuck in a “freeze” type of way. they essentially freeze and stop working. ONLY RGB -My USB microphone stops getting recognized having to make me un plug and re plug said peripheral. -Logitech mouse stops working, i suspect receiver stop getting recognized. -Scarlett Audio Interface doesn’t get detected on rare occasions upon boot up. -Windows shows that my Wi-fi USB extender isn’t connected to USB 3.0 even though it is. I do understand i may have too much USB data running and maybe my motherboard isn’t quite that good but I also don’t think i have an insane amount of USB stuff. Feels quite like a standard setup configuration. Would a pcie USB hub be worth it and any recommendations? thank you in advance and god bless CPU - Ryzen 5 5600X GPU - Gigabyte 3060 12GB Elite RAM - 32GB 3200 Hyper X Predator Motherboard - GIGABYTE B550 AORUS PRO AC

Since USB 4.0 should support up to 40 Gbps what is everyone's thought on using external m.2 enclosures (at least for pcie gen 3 drives)? Assuming the usb bus isnt too crowded it would be nice for quickly transfering or even playing games on the fly. I think it would be useful in some instances, such as the LTT video where they are testing Arc GPUs with downloading games on 1 pc and transferring over to play on another. It could also be useful when upgrading storage such as gen 3 to gen 4 to take advantage of resizable bar and whatnot.

There is tension downwards on the connector. This is because I velcroed every cable together and left it hanging. As you can see one of the cables has slight tension, will it cause issues down the line? Also another question, having the cables tied up and hanging, is it safe to leave it like this? It causes tension but looks much better than without any cable management whatsoever. Here is how I have the cables:

I mean, There are 6 total of USB for the Pre-built Desktop HP 260 G3 Mini PC, We want to disable 3 of them, just left 3 for Keyboard, Mouse and webcam. How can we disable them, and enable them manually and remotely (if there is addtional need to add) Thanks

I've attached an image of a device in Device Manager with the device location (red circle) and the device I selected (blue circle) circled. Anyone know it that number is the same as the USB port number? I can't find any USB numbering scheme from my motherboard manufacturer, and I'm trying to find the first (in terms of scan-time/data collection, however USB works) USB port on my PC (if such a thing exists). I read elsewhere that USB port 0 (or 1), usually labeled/documented by the motherboard manufacturer is the first port and effectively gets higher priority (because it is the first port, with all other ports behind it). Can anyone confirm or deny? Also feel free to correct me if any of my semi-assumptions above are incorrect, I'm having a hard time finding reliable sources for info on how USB works. My motherboard: Gigabyte Aorus X470 Ultra Gaming (rev.1.0) OS: Windows 10

-Baseus, probably

I just bought a lenovo thinkpad E15 gen3 It's a really good laptop , but has a major flaw : Only 1 USB C for both charging and data with no dedicated charging port , meaning if you're charging your device there's no other USB C port available I have a SSD external drive that I would like to use while charging. I've looked into hubs that has multiple USB C but they are very expensive and BULKY (with a lot of ports that i don't need) Basically I need a USB C hub with just 2 USB C out ports (can't find any anywhere) So i thought of this solution : Buy a USB C hub with just 4 USB A ports (simple small and very cheap) and then add 2 USB A to USB C adapters ! I don't know if this would work and if it won't fry my pc so I'm afraid to test for myself Any one has enough expertise to be sure if this is safe or not and if it will work at all ?

My actual OS drive will be set up as GPT as I'm using UEFI but the SanDisk thumb drive I'm using to install is MBR from the manufacturer, does this matter at all? I just don't want to mess with converting it if I don't need to.

Is that a Bios flashback button?

Hi there! I have been having some extreme audio issues, varying from audio constantly cutting out many times a minute when using a GoXLR, to audio having an extremely static sound when using a Razer Audio Mixer. I am certain that it is not a result of faulty devices of these as I have gone through 2 of each of them. My setup is: Windows 11 64bit AMD Ryzen 5 5600G - Asus TUF Gaming B550M-Plus Wifi ii ( BIOS version 2803) MSI RTX 3060Ti 4x8GB Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200mhz Audio: Beyerdynamic DT770Pro 250Ohm, using a Schiit Magni 3+ to power. Audiotechnica At2020 XLR Razer Audio Mixer (previously GoXLR) I have reinstalled windows, updated drivers, even replaced the motherboard from a MSI B550M variant, to my current TUF one. I've tried new cables, all the USB ports, basically everything. The audio issue seems to only happen when my pc is under load (even if its a small load). It seems to be the worst when playing the new Call of Duty, but find attached an audio clip from me playing minecraft yesterday with Ray Tracing shaders. My most likely guess would be its a USB issue as the onboard audio ports on the mobo have NO issues, but I need the interface to use my XLR microphone. I have also used the headphones without the amp, but the overwhelming static is still there. IMG_2574.mp3 I really am stumped on what to do next, apart from just give up and try an Intel platform. If anyone has any ideas, I would be immensely grateful. Thanks!

MB: ASUS Hero ROG VIII WIFI MB OS: Windows 10 Pro External HD: Seagate Backup+ For years the two USB ports on my external hard drive have worked fine. I did have to update Windows 10 & my chip set recently, hence the tags to them. I plug my USB memory stick into it, fine. I plug my phone or tablet into it, fine. I go to my web camera, or my headset it doesn't work. Ideas?

Ok, I've never encountered a fix this silly, but I suppose it's not dumb if it works. Background: I have a computer built around an Asrock X370 Taichi board. It's been mostly rock solid save one thing: It had a couple of USB issues on one bank of ports on the back outside of warranty. No issues, port expanders (i.e. 4 to 1, etc.) exist. I believe that some of the USB ports are powered by a separate controller...but my most recent issue actually isn't related to that. I only provide that information for background. Scene: Recently, I updated the board from BIOS 3.3 (bridge) to 5.1 (effectively the next bridge) to verify I wasn't going to have major issues going to 7.0 and 7.1 to run a 5800X. After the update (and fixing settings again since it resets CMOS during this process), everything's as it was before, no issues. Cut to a week later roughly, tonight. I turn on my computer and note that my keyboard isn't working. I move the keyboard to a different port on the back, now we're good. Get into Win10 and note my external USB drives that are on a USB port expander (8 to 1) are offline. One of the USB controllers is listed in Device Manager as having problems/warning symbol. I restart that. The drives come up (File explorer opens a window for each drive as its default option on connection)...then go offline, then up, then down, etc. Now, nothing else is connected to that 8 to 1 save the external hard drives, and both of those are independently powered by their own wall-wart/power brick. The normal inclination would be to try connecting the external hard drives to a free port on the computer to see if they stay up...but this expander DOES have an extra power connection you can connect so devices on it can exceed the 500mA cap for regular USB. So I connect it to the expander...and my problems stop. To be clear, I connected the connection to the port expander. I did not and have not plug it into the wall or surge protector. All it has is a physical plug connected to the power port on the expander. The wall connection/wall-wart is sitting atop my desk next to the expander. ...uhhh, what? Everything is stable now. Now I'm starting to think that all my odd USB issues are related to this port expander, but the keyboard is plugged directly into the back. It had no power on boot, i.e. during POST, pre-Windows. I had no issues with BIOS updates, and I always keep my AMD chipset drivers updated. Could this oddity with the expander have still affected the bus and somehow caused JUST the keyboard to stop? Oh, and the keyboard? I tried moving it back to its original port on the back...and it works, no problem. Anyone else had a similar experience? Opinions? Educated guesses?

Any recommendation for USB PCIe cards with at least 2 dedicated controllers so that I won't have to use the whole card when I want to assign a USB controller to a VM? Preferably with USB-C. Also, on a budget. Found couple that might work, but want your thoughts: Maiwo KC19. Startech USB 3.1 (2x USB-A + 1x USB-C) (PEXUSB312A1C1H)

Howdy folks, I recently started a WFH job and have been putting of making the most of my desk and PC setup which is costing me in productivity. I'm running a main desktop PC for personal use: WIndows 10, wired mouse/keyboard + 2x 27" 2k monitors. For work I have a 16" Macbook Pro M1Max 2021. I need to, as seamlessly as possible, switch my peripherals and monitors between these two machines. I know there's some good solutions to this that exist but I can't seem to find them. Here are my requirements: 1) Mac and PC need to output to both displays at 2k resolution. PC needs to maintain 2k @144 bandwidth on main gaming monitor without hurting latency 2) Mac and PC need to be able to switch between at LEAST 2 USB 3.0 peripherals (mouse+keyboard) and optimally, USB C wireless headset dongle without hurting latency The nitty gritty: 1) Both monitors support 1x HDMI and 1x DP connections 2) Mac has 3x USB thunderbolt type c connections and 1x HDMI 3) Desk real-estate is tight but two feet to the left of the desk/pc is another table I could possibly set the mac/switchers/hubs on 4) Mac needs to be able to turn on when shut (idk if this is only possible with a proper docking station or if there are other solutions) Affordances: 1) I'm fine with manually switching one or both monitor's display inputs (source input buttons) if needed 2) I'm fine with only 2 USB switches since I can use my airpods for meetings, but my webcam makes 3 total so 3-4 switchable USB ports would be optimal 3) Don't need to do anything with audio 4) Can use standard magsafe charger if solution does not also involve thunderbolt charging I would greatly appreciate any help finding a good solution for my setup. I'm sure there are articles or posts that I can't find with good solutions so if you happen to know of any please link me. I'd like to keep the solution as cheap as possible but if needed I can spend the money on a good solution. Thanks a ton guys!

PSU: Corsair RM850i I was looking at my F_USB connections when I realized a cable that goes from there to my PSU. It's quite literally this cable as listed on the manual Do I need it for anything essential or can I simply unplug it? I need a free F_USB slot.