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Showing results for tags 'usb'.
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Hi everyone! I have an 2017 27” iMac and I’m looking for an usb c / Thunderbolt hub / dock for my imac Today I’m running: USB c to HDMI USB C to charger USB A to: keyboard, mouse, streamdeck and external mic Everything I have a look has 12, 15, 20 ports and things but i feel that half of them i will not use. So anyone has any idea of a reasonable priced hub / dock that has: 3 usb-c / Thunderbolt out ports 3 USB As 1 hdmi or dp I don’t need Ethernet, card readers or audio. Thanks for the help!
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im been trying to find the name of this connetor and what is used in? the other one is normal usb 2 port it looks like a usb connetor but what type?
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as title says So i have a 1TB NVME inside of an USB enclosure, i have about ~400GB of media on it and nothing else. if i were to pop it into a pc that already has a different OS drive will it mess with my media files?
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Is there a USB3 hub that has dedicated USB2 controllers? Issue -> All USB2 devices = 480Mbps I have a ton of USB2 devices, but they're all bandwidth constrained on the 480Mbps bus. Even on USB3 ports, USB2 devices only use the USB2 pins. If I plug them into different ports on my computer, it doesn't matter because I have a max of 3 USB controllers on my board, and one of those is in the front of my case (which I don't want to use for this). Multiple USB2 controllers for USB3? Since I have 10-20Gb per USB3 controller of bandwidth, is it possible there's a USB hub out there which converts USB2 devices to USB3? That'd be plenty of bandwidth for both my USB2 and USB3 devices. I'm assuming this exists because I know there are dedicated PCIe cards that do the same thing. Is USB-C a solution? This system does not have Thunderbolt, but it does have 10Gb and 20Gb USB-C. I know that USB-C has 2 sets of USB2 data-pins, so maybe that doubles the available bandwidth? Does anyone know? I do have USB-C USB2 hubs.
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So here's my situation I was messing with my bios when I shouldn't have, (I use an aorus x570 elite wifi bios version f30) I'll admit i did some dumb shit, I was messing with my usbs in the bios and while I was forcing usb 2.0 on all usbs and some how managed to fuck it up and disabled my usb controllers rendering my usbs useless. I've left my pc fully unplugged without the cmos battery overnight and still not working, I've also tried resetting cmos with jumpers and still no fix. Please help my stupidity!!!!
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i have an old pentium Fujitsu Ergo Pro X, it has usb ports but i cant get them to work at all. is there any way to install drivers (which ones) or does 98 just not support usb? maybe i need a BIOS update?
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Hi so today I've installed my new ssd (Samsung 980 1tb) and I can't find my usb windows 11 boot device in my bios. I've selected tpm 2.0 and nothing seems to work. Even taking csm support off it still won't show. Is there supposed to be a usb device slot I should put it on or what. Please help!
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Hello. Last week I built a PC but I am having issues with the front USB 2.0 port. When I have the front USB 2.0 header plugged in, none of the front USB ports work and if I turn the PC on while something is plugged in, it fails to start up the PC and just takes me to a black screen with a white line at the top left. If I don't plug in the front USB 2.0 header, the USB 3.0 ports work fine but now of course the USB 2.0 port don't work. I am using the GIGABYTE B450M DS3H WIFI motherboard. I have tried reaching out to gigabyte but their live chat times are horrible and I have been awaiting a response in my ticket for a week now. Any one know what the problem could be?
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Not asking for any help but I figured I’d pass along something that worked for me. I have an H115i RGB Platinum and had issues with it randomly not showing in iCue. I was also getting constant device connect/disconnect alerts from Windows. These would cause freezes in at least one game (MSFS2020) and annoy the hell out of me. The H115i was connected to a Commander Pro so I assumed that was not the issue. Turns out it was. I picked up a NZXT internal USB hub, hooked the H115i to it, and problem is solved. Hope this helps other folks with the same issue.
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Every 5-20 minutes, all my usb connected devices will drop for around 2 seconds before reconnecting. This problem was much much worse when I also had my capture card plugged into the usb. when the capture card was plugged in, when taking a zoom call my whole pc would seize up. Connected devices: front panel io mouse(for now. its usually on the dongle.) motherboard io capture card (not currently plugged in to at least let me use my computer) ups battery usb connection usb-c pcie add in card that I have to use because because I have a stranding desk and I need extensions and dongles port1:6 foot extension cable into a 4 usb-a dongle keyboard mouse(usually) monitor pass-through port2: 6 foot extension cable into a laptop style usb dongle wireless headphone dongle xbox controller sometimes my pc specs: windows 10 home ver 10.0.19044 gigabyte x570 gaming x ryzen 9 5900x xfx radeon 6800XT usb-c addin card: Inateck redcomets u25 usb3.2 gen2 -
help USB Devices not responding before boot
BOT Joe posted a topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
So im building a computer with a bunch of used parts and when i boot it up it i can use my mouse and keyboard in the bios for about 3-5 minutes before both stop responding. (btw this settup is just for me to test a GPU i got from ebay that i wish to use for an actual build but have little time until i can get my money back if it fails) ive tried every single port and multiple devices but they stop responding every time. when i restart theres like a 50/50 chance they work, and when they do work they stop responding faster and faster each time. I also have a flash drive for booting windows plugged in which works perfectly fine and has a light indicating it has power and that is on. I also know that the display is not freezing because i put the system clock up on the bios and it was still running while the devices are not working. when they stop working the screne does seem to stutter once. I probably need to install some drivers or something, maybe the drivers the motherboard loads arent working and it just takes awhile to load until its cached? ive cleared CMOS, legacy usb and stuff is on, the 20 pin looks like a milimeter out of its socket but i cant get it any farther in so probably not that heres the things i think could be the problem (some of these are just random guesses): -the motherboard is not in a case, i have it sitting on cardboard temporarily lol, some sort of short circuit? -im using a water cooler and the radiator does not have a cpu fan (because this is all temporary), but the cpu doesnt even get past 39 degrees C, and i can directly touch the radiator -the ram i got from my friend is only one stick because the other stick paired with it was dead, maybe this one is gone too -the psu i got does not give enough power somewhere, it was from ebay but it looks to function really well (this one may be most likely though because if i turn of the power supply for a couple minutes, the time it takes for usb to fail resets) [[[probably psu which would suck cus i specifically bought it cus i trusted it]]] Specs (yes some of this is garbage): GPU - LeadTek 3070 WinFast AI blower CPU - Ryzen 5 1400 RAM - (1 Stick) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 16GB 2400MHz C16 Motherboard - Gigabyte GA-AB350N Mini-ITX Cooler - Asetek 550LC 120mm liquid cooling (i think) PSU - EVGA SuperNOVA 750 G2 Modular 750W Power Supply (ive tried both eco boost on and off) NO CASE NO SSD/HDD Using Ghost spectre Windows 10 boot drive -
I have a 16gb Sandisk Cruzer Pop USB drive. I have used it a lot of times for flashing OSes. Yesterday, I was creating a Tiny11 media creation tool using Rufus. At about 97%, it resulted in an error. However, the USB stopped being detected from that point. I'm unable to delete any partitions or create new ones. I have tried using GParted and diskmgmt. The only partition on the drive is a 64mb partition that I am unable to access. When I try to open it using file explorer, it just gives me errors. What should I do? Im using a Kali Linux installation right now but I can switch to a Windows machine to follow any troubleshooting steps if requried. Please help.
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so when I format my USB drive, it would constantly get lots of I/O errors, even ubuntu's disks can't format it, but gparted can, meanwhile I can pull up es file explorer and read the NTFS partition to get it's data, but can't copy to it, but it works fine under windows, I am currently looking on amazon to find replacement parts for the USB drive, oh and the screws are tiny, here's the USB drive on amazon SmartDisk USBFLB80 FireLite 80 GB 2.5-Inch USB 2.0 Portable Hard Drive (amazon.com), it's out of stock, but its a Samsung drive. -
I've recently got another model M, this time an ISO one the adapter i got along with it is a cheap chinese one with some problems: - holding one key and pressing+releasing another key while still holding the first key, makes the first key get picked up as released as well - the ISO key between shift and z does not work i don't have a PS/2 to usb adapter because i used native PS/2 until recently, all 'good' and recommended adapters floating around, being praised on the internet (including the 'blue cube' and others) are impossible to find since they aren't produced anymore i need a new adapter that supports the extra ISO key, does NOT have 1-key-overroll issues that make it impossible to play any type of keyboard-controlled video game, supports hot swapping, (and has a low latency if possible). recommend me something you can buy on amazon or ebay that ships to germany, thanks for answers! oh yeah i almost forgot, (i think) i need an actual converter and not just a dumb adapter with wires and plastic inside it, since my model M's controller doesn't support usb.
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Basically I'm looking for this But with a black (possibly matte black) solder mask I wanted to make a customized pen drive with resin, but I had a specific style in mind and green doesn't really fit. Are you aware of a specific model of pen drive that I can rip the PCB out of or that is directly sold as a PCB with a BLACK solder mask? (Preferably with a decent performance but at this point, I'm accepting anything.)
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I need to kill all connections to a COM device after some uncontrolable code runs which uses this COM device. Some times these uncontrolable code may not close properly and causes the COM device to be unavailable. I am unable to disable or uininstall this COM device while the unknown active connection is present, for these require a reboot and I can not have the computer lose internet connectivity. I have tried both pnputil and devcon, both have the same issue. If i try to go up the connection tree (dont know proper name for this), and try to disable USB hub, same issue occurs *Also this is remote headless PC, I am unable to physicaly disconnect this USB device Thanks in advance -
Hey all, hoping you guys can help me from pulling my hair out with this. If anything I hope I can be that one post someone with this same issue five years from now stumbles upon. So I built this my new rig back in December and only recently got off my lazy bum to set up my VR setup. Trouble is, I can't seem to play VR (at least Beat Saber) for more than about 20 minutes at a time before ALL my USB devices drop out and they don't reconnect. When the dropouts occur, I see a small spike in CPU usage (from ~12% to ~30%) for about a second and my GPU gets pinned to 99-100%. Since none of my USB devices work, I have to hard reboot via holding down the power button. Edit: I forgot to initially mention that this ONLY happens during VR. I don't buy newer games since they don't appeal to me so I don't believe I have anything super demanding to try out, but I did run Cinebench and 3DMark once I built the machine for the stress test and it passed them both. Specs: AMD Ryzen 7 7700x AsRock Steel Legend X670E (BIOS 1.18, latest) GSkill Flare X5 32GB (2x16) 6000MHz EVGA GeForce RTX 2060 KO Ultra Gaming 6GB Elgato HD60Pro SK Hynix Platinum P41 2TB via Gen 5 Slot (boot and storage) Samsung 860 EVO (storage) 2x Western Digital Caviar Blue (storage) Windows 10 Pro 64-Bit SeaSonic Focus PX-850 80 Plus Platinum USB Devices: Akko 5075, Logitech G502, Blue Snowball, Elgato StreamDeck, two USB cables at the ready for controllers (controllers not connected unless I'm actively using them) VR Setup: Oculus Rift (2x 6ft HDMI extension + 10ft USB extension), 3 sensors (two with 10ft USB extension) Troubleshooting: Removing Beat Saber Mods Updating chipset drivers Updating GPU drivers Reinstalling SteamVR Reinstalling Oculus Disabling iGPU (I had this enabled because I use triple monitors so I can keep the RIft connected at all times instead of unplugging a monitor when I wanted to use it) Bare minimum setup (full rig, keyboard, mouse, one monitor, VR setup) Disabling PBO Disabling EXPO Reinstalled Windows Single stick of RAM (drops out in 10 minutes instead, also only able to try one stick, see below) The only thing that has worked for me is when I had reconnected my old machine (3770k, 16GB RAM, same 2060) and I had one sensor drop out for a split second in an hour and a half of testing and I had no other issues. Unfortunately I can't try any other troubleshooting since as I was replacing the single stick of RAM, the clip to hold it in broke, and I more than likely ruined my chances at getting an RMA through AsRock (I had gotten a tech to send me the link yesterday but I hadn't filled it out as I wanted some last-ditch troubleshooting). So what do you all think it could be? I'll be sure to update if (MASSIVE "if") AsRock accepts my RMA now and/or a new board fixes the issue.
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Hello Everyone, first post so bear with me... I've had this Clevo X170KM-G since October of last year and it's a great performer and suited my needs really well. However, pretty much since I've gotten it I've had this ongoing issue: The USB ports and my storage drive (M.2 SATA drive) will occasionally "disconnect", or become really glitchy. My mouse connected to a Type A port will stutter and then stop moving the cursor, my keyboard will stop working, etc. After a couple of months I've been able to deduce that it's somehow related to cooling. When I'm gaming and the fans are kicked up, there's no issues. But when the laptop is idle and the fans are not spun up, even if the CPU displays a lower temperature, it will happen. I've reconfigured the fans to always run up even if the laptop is idle but because of how jank and simple the fan software is... even if I run it up first, sometimes the custom profiles don't take unless I toggle between Automatic and Custom. So I've been encountering the issue on and off when the fans are not ramped up on the default profile. New issue though- I fell asleep watching some TV on the laptop and when I woke up, the mSATA drive was not displayed in "This PC". I've restarted multiple times and even reseated the mSATA drive in the same slot, no change. Still no detection. So I put the mSATA drive in a USB3.0 dock adapter setup I had, and the drive worked fine (because I initially suspected the mSATA drive had burned out). Putting it back in the same slot, still nothing. BUT, I put it in a different M.2 SSD slot, and now it works, even with a PCIe drive swapped into the same M.2 slot the mSATA drive wasn't working in. My guess is that there's some USB3 or PCIe switch chip somewhere on the motherboard which isn't getting proper cooling. Is there something else possibly going on from what you guys think? Or should I maybe consider seeing if I can remove the motherboard and diagnose it further? I'm hoping I didn't pop an mSATA switch on that slot either. For those wondering about having the laptop returned/repaired under warranty, I bought it used and I don't think the warranty is still on it. Not sure about any of that though, The parts inside are dated Jul 2021, and I'm not sure what supplier the original owner purchased it from. Any Clevo owners have experience working with them on RMAs in the past? Appreciate any help. -
Asus Tuf X570 Plus WiFi - USB devices disconnect temporarily
Mrits posted a topic in Troubleshooting
I dont know why this is happening, my mic, mouse and keyboard are all USB and they all disconnect and then reconnect often times, and i'm losing rounds in game because of this. Now the thing is, the first time this happened few days ago, I was on BIOS v4403 and i saw that there was an update v4408, so i did update to it, but its still happening. Am i missing something? Has this been happening to anyone else? Please help! -
I have attached an image with my motherboard and cpu...I am running a gigabyte b550 aorus elite ax v2 with a ryzen 5 5600 rx6700xt and windows 11. I am disabled the windows 11 power control options within control panel and device manager but it still keeps happening,
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So, I have some POST errors on an M715q, specifically Error 0162 However, I also cannot access the BIOS since the keyboard and mouse seem to hae no power. Cant access BIOS, Cant access Windows, No USB Power... Cant boot to PXE, nor boot to USB So.. what now?
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I recently bought a 16-powered-port USB Hub (Orico AT2U3-16AB). I noticed an issue when I connected my Logitech G PRO X Superlight wireless receiver to the new USB Hub. Logitech G Hub knows that i connected the GPX but it can't register any clicks or movements. I then tried connecting the wireless receiver back to my old 7-powered-port USB Hub (made by Orico) and it worked. I then repeat this process 1 more time and it does not work again. I then connected my GPX with the included cable back to the old USB hub, it only works in 2 out of 7 usb ports before it finally does not want to work again. I tried updating the drivers via device manager (no luck), opened G Hub and made sure that the GPX & the receiver's firmware are updated, connecting the receiver and mouse directly to the laptop (still no luck), run an sfc /scannow in command prompt as administrator(nothing wrong), restarting and shutting down the laptop. I also tried installing logitech onboard memory manager , logitech connection utility app and it still doesn't work. I then tested another mouse and it's not working. whenever i plugged in the wireless GPX receiver, under windows settings (Bluetooth & other devices) it shows up as USB Receiver. I also tried updating every single USB Controller via device manager (still no luck). Basically i ruled out the problem is not with my peripheral but maybe either the USB Hub or the laptop itself. Trackpad and built-in keyboard are working. What's weird is that the new USB Hub works fine with my keyboard (FL Esports MK750), all keys are registering. but it seems that my microphone (fifine t669) and any mouse that I've connected refuse to register anything on my screen. For more info, my Laptop is an Alienware m15 R5 and it has really limited amount of ports. I noticed an odd behaviour with my old USB hub, when I connected my mic to different ports, it seems to think that I plugged in a new mic. the name of the mic is supposed to be "USB PnP Audio", but now it's "4- USB PnP Audio". I noticed that Alienware's support assist can't download and install certain drivers (I also tried downloading the components from dell's website and it's not working). I don't know if this is related to my issue or not. Peripherals I used with the new Hub : Logitech G933s dongle (asian version of G935), GPX Superlight (receiver & mouse), Fifine t669 (USB Mic), FL Esports MK750 (keyboard) Peripherals I don't use with the new Hub : Topping DX3 Pro+ (DAC+AMP) and Audio Technica ATH-R70X, Samsung Galaxy Tab S6 Lite, Huion H950P (drawing tablet), Quest 2. Applications that runs in background: Discord, Voicemeeter Potato, VoiceAttack, Opera GX, Logitech G Hub OS : Windows 10 Version : 10.0.19045 Build 19045 (Already been updated a few days ago) Is there any way to fix it? I'm considering doing a factory reset as of the time of writing this.
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So I've been 3D printing for awhile and I just got a new printer a Sovol SV06 but it uses micro SD and not a standard SD card. I hate using micro SD's their hard to remove from the printer along with being easily lost. Is there a cord or adapter that goes from USB to Micro SD? Iv searched but only come up with USB>MicroSD My thought was if there was an adapter that had a female USB to MicroSD I can just plug my standard SD>USB converter to transfer the slicer flies to the printer?
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Currently I switch between using my work laptop which is plugged into a docking station and my home desktop. Every time I want to change computers I have to unplug all my USB's and Ethernet from my docking station, crawl under my desk, and plug it into my desktop. I would really like a solution to fix this. All of my video cable don't need to be switched since I have everything hooked up via HDMI for my laptop and Display Port for my desktop. I currently have 5 USB's and an ethernet I swap between PC's. My new monitor supports 2 USB inputs so I could potentially go down to only needing to switch 4 USB's and an ethernet but I don't know of any good switches that would make it so I no longer need to unplug everything. Current USB devices include Logitech C9 series 1080p webcam, Razer viper ultimate mouse, Akko Mod 004 keyboard, Moto M2 2X2 preamp, and a Schiit Modius DAC. I use my home computer for gaming. Does anyone have recommendation on what I need to solve this problem? I'm about to upgrade my PC to an i7 13700K, MSI MPG Z690 Carbon wifi Motherboard, 5600 DDR 5 ram, 3080 GPU, 2 NVME SSDs, and a 1000w power supply. My download speed is only about 6-800 mb and there is no plan to go to Gigabit. Based on ports location and available I believe I am using this docking station for my work computer https://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-ThinkPad-Docking-Station-Adapter/dp/B07B63BD78/ref=sr_1_26?crid=3PPN0DJKF3HBC&keywords=Lenovo+docking+station&qid=1674147000&s=electronics&sprefix=lenovo+docking+station%2Celectronics%2C100&sr=1-26&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.18ed3cb5-28d5-4975-8bc7-93deae8f9840
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The LED lights on my USB speaker turned on when I plug my phone through front USB. I'm sure that the electricity from my phone's battery is being sucked into the USB front panel, into the motherboard, and then through the USB port on the motherboard I/O. The PC is turned off, btw. Now I would understand if the back USB is in Power Delivery mode, but it's not. It's just a regular USB 2.0 port. It's not supposed to happen, right? If it is, how do I fix it?
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