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Showing results for tags 'usb'.
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So as the title says, the USB ports stopped working, but only on the back of my PC the 2 on the front works, what couldve happened? I was casually speaking with friends on discord watching videos and randomly every peripherals turned off, tried uninstalling the USB Controller, restarting the PC, etc.
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EDIT: I have "worked around" this problem by using Rufus to create a UEFI-only installation USB. Guess I'll have to rely on having 2 USBs instead of one. Well, not too bad considering I have more than enough USB sticks. Thanks everyone for your input! ___ Dear LTT forumers, I am struggling to create a bootable USB drive for the installation of Win8.1. "Wait a minute, Win8.1 is terrible and receives no support, don't install it!" - Thanks for worrying, but I have reasons which I can not disclose due to an NDA. I need to be able to install W8.1 on both UEFI and Legacy systems. Currently, I am struggling with creating it properly. I have been following this video, but my USB does not boot into UEFI mode, only in legacy. What am I doing wrong? Thanks a lot! -
Searched the web and this forum but haven't found it being asked in quite the same way. When I plug in certain USB devices, my computer will just turn off or reboot. When it turns off, I have to wait for a while before turning it back on (waiting for residual power to drain?) I've tried different USB ports (both case and motherboard sockets), unplugging other devices while plugging in culprit devices, replaced the powerboard, and used different power points. As below, with a powered USB hub, the culprit HDDs work. So far the devices that cause restart are (refer to as culprits): Western Digital 5 TB My Passport portable HDD, Toshiba 4 TB portable HDD (this used to work fine before), Targus powered USB hub (ARC119) WITHOUT power, Sometimes exporting a bunch of images in Lightroom it'll also do the same reboot. What seems to be okay: Toshiba 2 TB portable HDD, Typical USB flash drives, This little Lindy USB SD card reader. The above mentioned USB hub WITH power, and the above culprit portable HDDs work through this powered hub. PC specs below. I've updated the BIOS to the latest and only just updated to Windows 11 (but this issue occurred prior to this update). Windows 11 Pro 64-bit (10.0, Bild 22631). Motherboard: Gigabyte B450 I AORUS PRO WIFI, BIOS F64e. CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3800X, not overclocked. RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2x8 GB) 3200 Mhz CL16 DDR4 (XMP profile is disabled, so it runs at 2133). GPU: MSI Nvidia RTX 2070 Armour. PSU: Coolermaster MWE Gold 650W fully modular. Case: MetallicGear Neo Mini Case Black V2. Primary HDD: Gigabyte GSM2NE3 M.2 NVMe SSD 1 TB. Secondary HDDs: 2x Western Digital Blue 2.5" 2 TB (WD20SPZX). Peripherals if needed: Logitech G604 wireless mouse, Logitech G910 keyboard, Logitech Pro X Wireless headset. Monitors: Acer Predator XB241H, Acer QG241Y. Reside in Melbourne, Australia. In case power standards are a thing? Thanks!
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My usb stick shows 2 separate drives when I plug it in my pc, Also it doesnt show that its size is 8GB, it shows only 2.8, I formatted it and the problem persists
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Hello everyone, so, I have this weird problem with my Motherboard, where every USB port on it would randomly just stop working for a couple seconds and then work again. I've checked the drivers and tried to find if it's a hardware problem by booting into a live boot of Ubuntu MATE 18.04.5, sure enough I was unable to recreate the issue there. At this point I genuinely have no idea what could be causing it, keeping in mind, that I haven't updated the BIOS and I didn't have that issue before, on the same BIOS version (I don't remember what BIOS version I have). Here's my PC's specs if that helps: Motherboard: Asus Prime B350 plus CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X GPU: Nvidia GeForce RTX 360TI Memory: 2x 16 GB Corsair Vengeance RGB RS PSU: BeQuiet Pure Power 10 (500W) Thanks in advance. Edit: I've just tried to install a newer version of the Chipset driver to see if that helps as suggested by GOATWD. Unfortunately the problem still persists.
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So I’ve been using this usb hub with my computer for a while. I decided to switch the power supply strip to a budget smart strip. Well this caused lots of errors about a power supply surge to the usb port and I was forced and how it couldn’t supply rhe necessary amount of power. Of course I switched back to the original power strip but now I’m still having issues. I can only plug a few things into the usb hub before it starts malfunctioning and certain peripherals don’t even power on. I tried buying a new usb hub but it has the same problems. I’m assuming this is now a problem with the usb port (on the motherboard) but how can I fix it? -
After installing windows 10 onto a USB drive via my Chromebook it can no longer be detected through said Chromebook -
Recantly i have bought new components from Amazon. I bought ryzen 7 5800x asrock 750w 80 plus gold and rtx 4070 oc. My specs before upgrade is 3060 oc, ryzen 5 2600x and 550w 80plus. Im not new to pc building. Had no problem at first. After a day or 2 tbh i lost track of time. What happened is that i turned on pc and had no displays on both monitors and no lights on keyboard and mouse. Pc seems to be turned on but nothing. Tried to reseat hdmi and display port but nothing. Only after pc rest by pressing the button everything turns on normally. What is weird pc runs great besides hight temps on cpu while gaming cos of bad airflow (nzxth510). Tested long gaming session on cyberpunk max graphics with raytracing and pathtracing all stable. I am bit lost what to do. One thing i have to do is install newest drivers mby that helps. What is weird is that this problem doesn't happen everytime i turn it on. Sometimes it happens and i reset pc and it turns on normally and sometimes it just turns on no problem. Hope that is just mby loose connection or driver. Hope i explained my situation well enough. Thank you -
Well, I have a gigabyte b50m ds3h rev 1.x, and I have noticed that the usb ports ''do not work'' I say this in quotes because first of all my mobo has 8 usb ports and my front panel has 2, now, my keyboard and mouse are plugged directly into the motherboard in the back, and my wifi adapter is in the first usb port on the front panel. the problem is that, for example, bluetooth adapters or usb flash drives do not work, and i said ''do not work'' because my mouse and keyboard work without apparent problem, but the other ports do not recognize the devices, in this case i wanted to plug a bluetooth adapter and it did not recognize it in any of the usb but only in the first port of the front panel (where my wifi adapter is), not even in the ports where apparently mouse and keyboard work, the only port that worked was the first port on the front panel but there is plugged my wifi (as mentioned above), another thing is that the second port on the front panel turns on and off only when I plug any usb input, I checked that windows power management thing but apparently nothing changes, maybe I did it wrong or I do not know, or could be the drivers? I don't have the slightest idea, please help These are my specs if it is useful.. AMD ryzen 5 2600 RAM: XPG 16 GB GPU: GTX 1660 Storage: Seagate ST1000DM010 Barracuda HDD 1TB XPG SSD M.2 NVME Pcie 3.0 512gb Motherboard: GIGABYTE B450M DS3H rev 1.x Bios Ver: f62d PSU: Corsair CV550w 80 plus bronze
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I have an EVM H81(a local name) motherboard which has only a single USB 2.0 header which is also a 4pin not a 9pin which means it can only drive a single USB 2.0 port off of that, I was thinking to use the external USB hub I have laying around and desolder its ports and use it as a 1 to 4 internal hub, The problem is I want two devices connected to the hub all the time (the ARGB controller for strip and the case single usb 2.0 port) and I think the 4pin header wont be able to have sufficient power for both the devices, so can I use molex to power the USB hub somehow? -
My screen starts to shut down like I've set it to, but the turns right back on after it's cycled off completely. I have found that if I unplug all of my USB keyboard and mouse dongles, that it will behave as expected. I've tried all generic settings changes in device manager and power management, and have even enabled the power while sleeping wake setting in my MSI BIOS. I'm hitting a brick wall here.
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Basically I modded my wii and bought a usb drive, and for about 2 weeks it worked fine but then it just acted like its corrupted out of the blue, windows detects it as broken and asks me to scan it, I've scanned it about 10 times and appearantly it has "no issues", and also whenever I get this error the drive goes bad and just doesnt get detected anymore.I've tried formatting it again and again [FAT32] but it just wont work. -
Can you guys recommend a good DSLR controller app for modern android that works with my third hand Nikon d40. I have the usb cable for it an otg adapter, and a phone with otg. I only need the software. Free and open source is nice but not a necessity.
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USB random disconnections and random complete power loss
ThisguyVR posted a topic in Troubleshooting
Hi all, I've had these two intermittent issues that occur completely randomly. Issue 1: At completely random times, all of my USB connections will disconnect then reconnect after 5 ish seconds. I have no idea why it is occurring. PC Specs as follows: Motherboard: Asus Prime B550M-K CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 6-Core Processor GPU: AMD Radeon RX 6600 XT RAM: Kingston Fury Renegade 16GB (2x8GB) Storage: 4TB (2x1TB NvME Storage and 2x 1TB SSD Storage) OS: Windows 11 22H2 PSU: Corsair TX550M For my USB devices: Corsair K55 RGB Corsair Harpoon RGB Pro Corsair MM800 RGB Polaris TC Helicon GoXLR (Full Size) Valve Index 3x Full body HTC Tracking 3.0 docks I'm not sure what to do or what to give to help troubleshoot but open to ideas. Issue 2: Again at random times, PC will completely lose power and then turn on again. It's happened a few times while streaming and playing games but also happened when absolutely nothing is going on, when sitting at idle so to speak. PC spec above. Again any ideas or thoughts will be great. Thank you for reading. -
So I already have the parts for my first desktop build but it can't be connected to the internet yet. Would it work if I connect a usb multiplier with a wifi adapter in one of the ports via ethernet back to the mobo so I can get stable wired connection at all times? My wifi has a lot of ping. I tried a powerline for my laptop but it had to be reset once every 2 to 3 days which was a pain in the bum. moCA isn't an option, mesh adapter I haven't tried before but they're a bit pricey. I can't move the router an inch let alone lay cables all over the house. Any thoughts?
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Hi Everybody! My laptop for some reason has not been able to connect to the internet using my internet stick(Sim Card dongle) I started troubleshooting plausible issues. I'll list the basics of what I tried below. It's worth saying that the dongle is from my Cellular network provider. Also, it worked perfectly fine and still does on my wife's Laptop and my work laptop. This specific problem(s) started after getting my laptop back after I made the mistake sending it to a sketchy dude to do some hardware upgrades. It's one of many concerns but I'll get to the rest in time. Long story short, He lied about being a technician and started ghosting me. I managed to get my laptop back after getting the cops and a lawyer involved. Took about a month or so just getting it back Here's the list of what I've tried: 1. DEVICE MANAGER: Going through the device manager would see that it's picked up via usb and that's about it. Did a few scans to find the relevant drivers and tried installing them. Error code saying it can't start. 2. Downloading manually: Went to the dongle's manufacturer's website(Huawei). I think I downloaded the wrong drivers or something because I remember struggling to find the model's drivers in general.. installed the drivers manually, Windows Defender notified me of various issues afterwards. I think it said memory integrity or something like that. I'll have to double check it. 3. Tried asking my ISP for advice: Well, I was told that it sounds to them like a driver issue but can be a hardware issue on the laptop. I did check the Wi-Fi/Cellular card on the motherboard and it seems to work just fine. I tested it on my wife's laptop as we have exactly the same machine That's about it guys! If anyone wants to pass on any suggestions and wisdom, know that I'll be one grateful guy! Thanks for reading! Hope yall have a fantastic week!
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I'm currently planning my first gaming PC, upgrading from an Alienware M15 laptop. Although, I noticed that both my case and motherboard do not come with a USB-C port. I need a USB-C to hook up my drawing tablet and, more importantly, VR headset. Case: Deepcool MATREXX 40 3FS MicroATX Mini Tower Motherboard: MSI PRO B660M-A WIFI DDR4 Micro ATX LGA1700 These are the best I've found for the price on a budget I need at minimum 2-3 USB-C ports. 1 for a VR headset and 2 for drawing tablets. The motherboard does come with a front USB-C connector. I've heard that one can get a little chip with some ports on it, but those are often expensive and don't come with enough ports. Would it be okay to use a USB-A to USB-C hub? I'm worried it would wreck the speeds for my VR headset, and I'm having trouble finding the right hub in decent quality. The latter is more affordable. I'm willing to pay up to $30. Any advice is appreciated.
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As I was connecting my audio mixer (powered off but connected to a different outlet) to my USB audio interface with 1/4" audio cables, one of the cables zapped me (more than regular static electricity but less than wall), burnt out the audio interface, and the USB port it was plugged into on my MoBo is no longer functional. All other ports still work. Is it safe to keep using? My PC stayed on the whole time, and displayed no errors. MoBo in question is a fairly new Rog Strix B550-A. I'm also confused why this happened, as it's a setup I've used before. USB interface, PC, and speakers were all powered on at the time. I figured it would be enough that the mixer was powered off. -
Hello guys, I got a problem that really grinds my gears and I've been on it for months now... When I am gaming (and sometimes also when I am browsing or skyping) almost all my USB devices loose contact for 3-4 seconds and reconnect after 3 or 4 more seconds. It happens about once every 2 hours but somtimes twice an hour and sometimes not for a whole day. This is my hardware: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 7800 X3D MB: MSI MPG X670E Carbon WiFi RAM: 2x 16GB G.SKILL Trident Z5 6000 CL16 GPU: XFX 7900 XTX Speedster Merc Edition PSU: BeQuiet Straight Power 1000W 80Gold OS: Windows 11 Pro 64bit activated with newest updates Custom Watercooling with 7 Fans, one D5 pump, aquacomputer quadro and highflow next and a 8 inch aida64 control screen in the case I have both 8pin CPU power and the 24pin fully plugged in. Peripherals: Corsair K95RGB keyboard, Logitech X56 HOTAS, Logitech G502X mouse with powerplay, Corsair Virtuoso Headset with RGB stand, Logitech USB stereo speakers, Tobii eye tracker and two stream decks. The X56 HOTAS is plugged into the monitor hub and the monitor is plugged into the USB 3.1 rear I/O. The keyboard (cable) and the mouse (dongle) are also in seperate 2.0 or 3.1 ports in the rear I/O. The stream decks are plugged in over a passsive USB-C dongle into the first USB 4 port on the rear I/O. The Tobii eyetracker, webcam and Logitech speakers are plugged over a active (wallplug powered) USB-C hub into the second USB 4 port on the rear I/O. When the problem accures ONLY the mouse, the webcam and all the devices IN the case still work. Keyboard, Stream Decks, headsetstand (with headset donge in it), Tobii eyetracker and the HOTAS do not! The errors I get over Windows event viewer are linked to the post. My search for the kernel error I get brought no usable insight. I hope some of you can help me find a hint or even a solution... Thanks a lot in advance and cheers from Switzerland. Martin
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Hello everyone. I have a problem. A weird one. When i insert something(doesn't matter what, gamepad or usb hub) in front Type C in my PC case, and when i reboot PC, my NVMe (1 TB) not detected by BIOS (and Windows too). It's sometimes recognized in BIOS something like SM2267 (1GB) in System Status or nothing at all. And my another NVMe (2 TB) is fine, it's detected. 2 TB NVMe inserted in slot 1. And when i insert something in Type C on motherboard on the back, problem is not occuring. Also, when Windows booted up, Type C works fine. Windows writes this in error log: Error stornvme: The driver encountered an error in the \Device\RaidPort2 controller. Updating BIOS not helped, resetting settings to factory in BIOS, i also tried to reseat cable front Type C on motherboard, checked cables and connectors, tried install drive in different slot, nothing helped. Also when this happens, Windows is very slowly boot and then new log appears in Event Log about stornvme. But this is not all. Remember when i installed drive in different slot? It's recognized on first boot in BIOS. But after shutdown(not restart!) the problem returned. Then i tried cold boot(even turned off PSU) and now it's recognized in BIOS and Windows and after restart and sometimes even shutdown everything is fine. Windows is also booting fast as should. What the hell?! Sadly, it's not fixed it completely, problem still happens randomly after a few shutdowns(not restart). I also tried the different drive (256 GB), and it was not recognized. It was SM2263 (1 GB) in System Status in BIOS like my 1 TB drive. Cold boot with turning off PSU not worked with that drive. Also when problem happens, LED on NVMe always turned on. When NVMe detected as SM2263 LED frequently blinking. Motherboard: MSI Pro z690-a WIFI DDR4 CPU: i5 12400 PC Case: Lian Li Lancool III
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Hey guys, I try to troubleshoot my friend computer and I'm facing an issue that I never saw and don't know what to do. The problem is that the computer doesn't detect any devices that are like "Mass storage devices", like gaming programmable mouse, gaming keyboard, usb stick, usb drive. BUT it detects "basic" desktop mouse and keyboard. For example, his Logitech G502 lights up when the BIOS POST, but power off when windows starts. (but don't work in UEFI). A super basic HP mouse works well on the UEFI and on Windows. Same with his Cerberus keyboard, works time to time in UEFI, and partially on Windows (ctrl, shift, alt and caps lock keys stays stuck pressed, until I disconnect the keyboard and plug a basic keyboard) Second example, when I plug my USB key with Windows 11 setup, it's sometimes detected by the BIOS, but it's not on the Boot Menu list. It's only in the list when I enable CSM support with Legacy setting, but still not shows up in Windows explorer or Disk Manager. In the Device Manager, i get a warning sign for "USB Mass storage device" with error code 10 and "Unknown USB Device (Device Descriptor Request Failed)" with error code 43 I tried all these things, without success : - Completely format and reinstall Windows 11 - Downgrade to Windows 10 - Install all Windows update - Install all drivers update from the Gigabyte Control Center + Driverscloud - Install latest BIOS firmware - Install a bunch of different USB and USB 3.0 drivers (From Gigabyte and Intel) - Uninstalled devices from Device Manager - Rebooted so many time between and after drivers install and device uninstall - Disabled Fast Boot in the BIOS - Disabled Secure boot in the BIOS - Enabled / disabled CSM support (UEFI and Legacy) But still the same problem. Maybe the motherboard is faulty ? Do you have any clue for that strange problem ? Config : Gigabyte B660 Gaming X DDR4 (BIOS was version F5, I tried with F23 and the most recent F24, same problem) I5 12600KF GTX 1060 G.Skill Ripjaws V (2x 16 Go, 3200Mhz, DDR4) M.2 Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1To ASUS PCE-AX3000 Wifi card (Images in french, sorry !)
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Hey Guys, IDK if this is the right category, but I'm kinda in a pickle and I need your help! I'm working on a project where I'm trying to control an external device via PC. Now, this external device is a medical device running Windows CE and has one interface port which is a USB A 2.0 port (maybe 1.0 even). I've been able to contact a Win CE developer and he helped me install a driver for an Xchipi-X USB to RS-232 adapter. Then, I connected another RS-232 to USB adapter to the PC, and in between, I connected a null modem RS-232 cable. This Idea worked! I can send commands via a HyperTerminal and the medical device comply! but it is not elegant... (see attachments.. the configuration with the blue cable) I understood that a USB A to USB A cable is not an option (though I understood that there are USB A to USB A cable dedicated for data transfer using a proprietary SW, but that won't work here). I then decided to buy a null modem RS-232 to USB (the RS-232 twisted and the other side is USB). Though the PC identifies it and gives it a COM number, it is not working! I thought it was a driver problem, but I used the FTDI driver provided by the manufacturer but it did not work. I e-mailed the manufacturer but no one answered. (see the attachments for the cable configurations) Now I need your help.. what am I doing wrong? Is it a driver problem? can anybody suggest a different cable? or maybe a different mechanism altogether? any help would be much appreciated!!! Thanks!
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Was going through settings in windows 11 and turned on write caching (named "performance" something something ) in the settings for the usd drive(its a bootable usd drive with win11 iso on it, its plugged all the time ) But the process took too long. Its a 16gb drive that had around 600mb free space on it by the time it went tits up.. It took too long to even complete the process and i was scared so i force shutdown the pc. Now it wont boot, the boot loading screen stays on forever and the circle keeps spinning ... But when i turned it off and unplugged the usb then it booted just fine.. After booting up, i plugged the usb and it made the sound but i couldnt find it in File Explorer or the DISK MANAGER or the "Device and Printers" in the settings.. or the CMD(and powershell) DISKPART. All i could see it was in the tray icon (Remove Mass Storage, which also didnt work if i clicked on it, would way "removing drive” until eternity) AND in the device manager. Before yu ask, yes i tried to disable and enable the drive.. but disabling didnt work too, it would say "removing the drive" which yu know wont happen anytime soon.. So i restarted the pc(unplugged and plugged the usb) and it was disabled, then i enabled it .. It didnt work too.. Is there any way to just format it?? The data isnt important...
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I have a Gigabyte B650 Aorus Pro AX motherboard, and the rear IO includes USB 3.2 gen 2 type A and USB 3.2 gen 1 type C ports. I’m not gonna be transferring data on those ports, but which one would be better for charging an iPhone? There doesn’t seem to be any specs about power delivery on gigabyte’s product page, and I’ve already looked at lots of other sites and gotten very varied answers. It seems to me that the power output of each USB generation and connector type isn’t actually standardized, but I can’t seem to find any info about it for my specific motherboard. I’m not looking for a specific power transfer capability, but I’m just trying to figure out which of the ports I should use to get the fastest charging out of what I already have. Here’s the link to my motherboard’s specs, and any clarification would be greatly appreciated! https://www.gigabyte.com/Motherboard/B650-AORUS-PRO-AX-rev-1x/sp#sp
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I have no clue on where to start with this, but we go. I have 2 machines (Desktop PC and a Laptop) the Desktop i use for private life, gaming, etc.. whereas i use the laptop for work. I'm a bit freak when it comes to devices and weird stuff so i have a lot of usb devices connected to my PC. list of devices: label printer. huge enter button (smash that enter). a funny RGB pixel figure of ghost. Headset wireless 1st dongle steel series. Mouse wireless 2nd dongle steel series. Keyboard (standard usb 2.0 keyvboard) yeah i know this will be my next update. Microphone Hyperx. RGB gaming pad?! (don't judge) Web cam. couple of extra usb cables i use to (connect/charge my phone), 2nd one to charge some other stuff i have laying around. some of these devices are connected directly to the Desktop (back and/or front) some are connected via 2 usb hubs 1st hub with 4 devices 2nd with 7. (usb hub is that the correct name?) So i total i got like 15 usb cables/devices connected and yes i use them all together. The thing is i need my Keyboard/mouse/cam/headset to be switched between the 2 machines -remember Desktop gaming Laptop work?). so i use the hub with 4 to switch from one to the other when i need to make the switch. My problems/questions are: What is the best way to handle all of these devices (and are they really alot?) specially that i need to keep 1 or 2 free easy to access slots for USB sticks and/or my camera (not the web one). I saw some USB switch which allows me to switch between the 2 machines without plugging/unplugging every single time, is this any good? and do you recommend having it with an external power? taking about external power, the Hyperx mic (connected in the back of my Desktop) i mentioned above doesn't work unless i unplug and plug it everytime. i have no clue what to type next, its all over my head atm. so i will leave this as is and wait for someone to maybe recommend me something good since i don't believe i am the only one with this problem. ============================== UPDATE ============================== One further question: how can i ensure that i am using USB3.0 for mouse/keyboard/cam/headset all the time so i get best connection for the dongles.
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