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I need a quick help. Long story short, I need a Molex cable for my Corsair RM750x, the problem is I currently don't have it for the reasons that aren't important. TL;DR my friend has a Corsair HX850, will his Molex cable work on my RM750x? Found this https://www.corsair.com/uk/en/psu-cable-compatibility and as far as I can see it's compatible, but I just wanted to make sure. Thanks in advance.

Hi, my MacBook Air 11 inch is not powering on no matter what. I am a fairly tech nerd person, but it is at 100% battery according to my charger, and the power isn’t working. Now, when I shut it down, it took a really long time to shut down. I was a little confused, but I opened it up to clean out the fan with some compressed air. But now, it won’t turn on. I don’t even see the screen turning the lighter black that it normally does on startup. Please respond ASAP as it is my only mobile computer, and I use it constantly every day, for school and work. Please don’t tell me to buy a pc, I don’t like windows 10, 8, or 7. I also need MacOS for most things I do on a laptop. My windows desktop simply can’t be used four days out of the week, as ima kid (well, technically) and my parents are divorced. Thank you to anyone who responds with a helpful comment. Eve if it is to tell me that it is dead, I should get a job, and actually buy a decent computer, even if it is another Mac

Hi everyone, I am building my first PC and have already ordered all the parts. While browsing, I recently discovered that the case I chose and the 360mm radiator don’t work together. My case is an NZXT H510 and CPU is an i7 10700K cooled by a 360mm AIO cooler. None of the parts have arrived and now I’m confused what I should make a change in, case or cooler. I initially wanted to change cooler but now I’m wondering if a 240mm AIO cooler will suffice for the 10700K. Please advise soon, I will have to cancel shipping and replace an item. (Case has no return options and it arrives in 2 days) also in other components I have 2 sticks of ram, along with a Zotac 3 fan 2080 super (if these components will affect the cooling performance and airflow). Thanks a lot, Nishad

Hey everyone! I just finished building a new rig (link below) and it boots just fine to BIOS, temps are stable and xmp is enabled for ram, but when I go to install windows 10 pro from my official usb stick, it BSODs with no error code. I’ve been trying so many different options but I cannot seem to fix this issue. Please I’m begging for help here. This is incredibly urgent!!! I can’t even get to the install menu. I’ve built multiple systems in the past but I’ve never encountered this issue. Parts Link: PCPartPicker Part List Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 9 3900X 3.8 GHz 12-Core Processor $438.89 @ B&H CPU Cooler NZXT Kraken X73 73.11 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler $175.86 @ Amazon Motherboard Asus ROG Crosshair VIII Hero (WI-FI) ATX AM4 Motherboard $379.99 @ Amazon Memory Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory $186.99 @ Amazon Storage Samsung 970 Evo 1 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive $168.73 @ Amazon Storage Western Digital Black 4 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $149.88 @ Amazon Video Card EVGA GeForce RTX 2080 SUPER 8 GB KO GAMING Video Card Case NZXT H710i ATX Mid Tower Case $169.99 @ Amazon Power Supply EVGA SuperNOVA G3 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply $221.09 @ Amazon Operating System Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit $139.88 @ Other World Computing Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total $2031.30 Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-09-13 02:39 EDT-0400

Hey, everyone. I just finished building my sister’s pc, and upon booting I first received the CPU Fan Error message, but it was simply due to me running an AIO, so I set the cpu fan speed to ignore and tried to boot. (All temps stable) As soon as I click Install Windows 10 64 Bit, the pc blue screens with the error below. I’ve also attached the pc part picker list. Thank you in advance. This pc needs to be up and running shortly and I am very stressed. :0 https://pcpartpicker.com/user/TheFemoDemo/saved/Lr2mrH

Budget (including currency): Rs 40,000 Country: India Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Android Studio, Blender, Unity, PUBG, COD, Video Editing Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Looking for fresh build. Buying in a month. 60+ FPS, Already have Monitor, Keyboard and Mouse.

Let me begin by saying I know new GPUs are releasing soon and I have tried to convince my sister to wait for new releases, but she isn't willing to. Budget (including currency): 2000-2500 USD Country: United States Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: This PC will be used for interior design rendering programs and occasional gaming. Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): No other parts needed. Focus for this budget is the PC itself. Black case preferred. I've made a PCPartpicker list which can be found here: https://pcpartpicker.com/user/TheFemoDemo/saved/Lr2mrH Suggestions appreciated!!!!!

#1 I was installing an upgraded ryzen 5 3600 from a ryzen 3 3200 g, my graphics card is an rx 570, a 500 w smart power (i forgot the Exact name of the psu) psu, and compatible dual channel sticks of ram that are ddr4. I also have an asus prime a320-mk MOBO l.My bios was updated beforehand and so when i installed my new cpu in, i got “no signal“ even after plugging everything in again, making sure my cpu was okay (it had no bent pins or destroyed ones at all), my cooler is screwed in well with even pressure on the cpu, and i even tried to restart cmos three times using the battery and paperclip/ jumper method on the pins. I have tried just about everything and i dont know what could have gone wrong. I was also careful to not touch the motherboard too much and i checked for any damage and it seems fine. When i try to boot my pc, all the lights and my cpu fan is running well but there is just no signal at all. Ive even tried hdmi in the motherboard directly to see if it was a gpu problem and it didnt help either. Please help.

Anyone know of a free alternative to Pulseway?. This will be used for android devices and there are only 6 and will always only be 6. Basically I need to be able to monitor the system only if its up or not and be able to (install apk's remotely but this is not necessary), and this is very important a remote desktop such as teamviewer. Preferably free or a one time purchase can't have a yearly or monthly plan. Thanks in advance

Hello I’ve recently built a new PC at home, my specs at the time and running Windows 10 home x64 bit Ryzen 5 3600 Radeon Rx 5600 XT sapphire pulse MSI B450 Tomahawk Max Seasonic GX-550 80+ gold certified 550 watts Samsung 860 Evo 1TB Crucial Ballistix 2x8 3600 MHz About a few days later I decided to return my gpu since it kept crashing and upgraded that and my mobo while I was there and now here with my current build Ryzen 3600 EVGA 2070 Super XC Ultra ROG Strix B550-f Gaming(WiFi) Seasonic GX-550 Samsung 860 Evo 1TB 2x8 crucial Ballistix 3600 MHz I attempted to boot up my pc and went into a black screen, unless I boot into bios is the only time I see something on my screen, the OS running on the computer was Windows 10, I then attempted to reinstall Windows and booted from the usb to install and once again it showed up on my screen, I don’t understand why it won’t boot from my SSD if the device is being read.

So just switched up from a 8700k build to the long awaited 9700k build ive been wanting. Took the other motherboard and cpu out, switched everything around, plug my 120mm Kraken (idk which one it is) to the AIO_Pump header, go to boot up and the pump is loud as hell(video posted below). I’ve never heard it with my old build at all. Secondly the CPU temps just keep rising and rising like no ones business! It’ll hit 80 in BIOS and keep going! So: A) what’s going on here. And B) how can I fix this? Thank you all for your quick responses! IMG_4073.MP4

So now coming near to a month, my chrome sync is broken. Let me explain, a few weeks ago I noticed chrome sync was paused, I thought something I did might have caused it, but then it kept happening, so being frustrated I switched to Firefox as my default browser (default browser as in the actual setting in windows). This happened every time my computer restarted or after a fresh start everyday. P.S. this was in chrome v83. Now there is nothing wrong(so far) with Firefox and I am actually enjoying it, but I do want to know if chrome can be fixed. Two weeks ago I noticed chrome had been updated to v84 so I tried it again and chrome sync was working so I made chrome my default browser(in windows settings) again. The next time I restarted, boom it was doing the same thing. After a few times of switching the default browser, I realized that when I have chrome set as a default browser sync stopped every time the PC essentially restarted. Since then I have tried multiple solutions from googling around to no avail. I even tried reinstalling chrome, that didn't help either. Has anyone else encountered this issue ? Also I tried the new Edge based on chromium and boy is that nice. But there google services just automatically logged out every time the PC had a fresh start. All the other website stayed logged in. Any idea about this ?

I have been in a dire situation with my 1-year-old gaming pc: It is consistently crashing when playing 3D games, like Destiny 2 and Quake Champions for any more than about 10 minutes. before the issues start there is no indication of a problem, but after a little bit of time, the game just closes with a crash report to the desktop. Cooling is not an issue as I use a custom loop to cool my CPU, GPU and VRM's. I have noticed that overclocking my GPU has resulted in longer amounts of time before crashing occurs, but they never completely stop. (Performance is not the issue either, just look at what hardware I'm using at the bottom) I have previously reinstalled Windows, reinstalled all of my drivers and also tried to do some hardware troubleshooting as well. I still have no idea of what is really going on and what might be able to fix it. I am currently going to school for game design and I am required to work in Unity for a large number of my projects, if this is not fixed, it will surely be a detriment to my academic success, which is why I have marked this as urgent, as the semester has already begun and I am running out of time. ANY suggestions/feedback would be appreciated I don't know if this will be helpful, but I was watching task manager during my last crash, I noticed that under GPU -> 3D, there was a momentary spike to 100% usage, then back down to 0. (The usual load on the GPU while playing more intense games is ~30%) System Specs: Motherboard: Asus ROG Maximus IX Formula GPU: Asus Strix 1080ti CPU: Intel Core i7 7700k RAM: 32gb TridentZ RGB @ 3200mhz Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 500gb (Os drive), 3tb Wd blue PSU: Corsair HX 850i Cooling: full custom loop including CPU, GPU, & VRM's (flexible tubing) Note: I am also using a Thermaltake riser cable for my GPU just in case this becomes relevant OS: Windows 10 64bit, the latest version

Halfway through a new build, I have my AIO CPU block installed but have run into clearance issues with the little heatsink above the CPU on my motherboard (My motherboard is: The ROG MAXIMUS X HERO.) Would I run into any issues with performance or temperature if I removed the little heatsink to provide the needed clearance to mount the radiator at the top? Thanks in advance for any help

I have been having issue with booting windows 10 with UEFI, I will try to give as much context as possible so you guys can give me some insight on the issue System type : Laptop Model : Acer E5 553 OS: Win 10 64bit GPT UEFI HDD: Toshiba 1TB HDD Everything was working great until yesterday when I had and power outage and my laptop battery died on me Next time I booted up, I got greeted with the love of everyone's life i.e. BSOD. I have never been so happy to see that(worried and sad) ERROR 0xc00000e9 http://techfaqs.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/error_code_0xc00000e9.jpg I said to myself calm down it might be just windows corruption and tried to restart the system 3 times Same Error Got my other laptop and created a USB windows 10 installation media and tried to boot from a USB 2.0 port(so not to face any issues of USB 3.0 drivers) Same Error Now I got worried that something might have gone wrong with the HDD(I had important data in there) So I pried open the laptop with crowbar to get to my precious data in that failing bastard HDD ( In the mean while thinking How can you do this to me Toshiba I trusted you and you betrayed me) I had a STORITE SATA to USB3.0 for such situation(Smart eh, I felt so good on that useless purchase now) So I popped in that bastard Toshiba HDD in there and connected to the other laptop and to my surprise everything is normal, it got detected and all data was safe and sound (Am so sorry for calling you a bastard HDD Toshiba, I was wrong, I made the call to early) (I felt more like a smart ass now about buying that SATA to USB3.0) So now that I knew HDD was fine I popped it back in used some duct tape to put thinks together and tried to boot again Same Error So I booted into BIOS(Insyde) and cleared UEFI Reboot Same Error Reboot again to USB Windows 10 IM Same Error Now I got seriously worried Reboot to BIOS Restored to Default settings Save and reboot Same Error So I removed all the duct tape and popped out that drive and Put in another WD BLUE HDD I had around It had windows 7 Ultimate MBR from a legacy bios system though So obviously it did not boot So I switched to Legacy boot and it booted only to be crashed in ATI driver section (I was a drive from an old Dell Laptop I had, Laptop mobo had gone bad so I salvaged the HDD ) Tried to boot on SafeMode/Without GPU drivers but none stopped BSOD on ati..sys(something) Anyways it was not the point anyways I just wanted to check if system recognizes others drives too and it did so I popped that old drive out and put it in that SATA to USB Cleaned the drive Deleted all partitions with DISKPART Converted it to GPT And because I cannot get the installation media to work I used WINtoUSB by hasleo software to install Windows 10 GPT UEFI on that Dell Drive in USB Waited for a while and voila Connected the USB WINDOWS 10 GPT UEFI drive to laptop Change BIOS back to UEFI from Legacy And tried to boot from USB Same Error () Popped that drive(Other WD BLUE drive not TOSHIBA) from USB and put it back in Laptop Some more duct tape and voila good as new just with other drive Tried to boot again Same Error Reboot Tried to boot Windows 10 USB IM Same Error Back to BIOS Switched to Legacy Tried to boot It did not detect HDD obliviously as Legacy does not support GPT drives I knew it won't work, you have to understand I got tired now and I was desperate for it to work Down it the crowbar again, Got that drive out popped it on SATA to USB again Cleaned Partitions Converted to MBR Installed Windows 10 to USB (This time on MBR drive) Some more duct tape and voila As good as new Into the BIOS UEFI(UEFI does support MBR I checked) Tired to boot HDD not detected obliviously as there as no EFI entries reboot Manually add EFI entry Reboot Change boot order to EFI entry Boot Same Error Reboot Switched to Legacy Mode and Voila Windows Booted WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHHHHHHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO I had never been so happy in my life, such a relief Setup was complete and windows was up and running no issues But Windows I was running was 1609 and I knew when this windows is going to update to 1709 or 1803 it would go to same issue again as Microsoft has to be dick about UEFI and force all user to be on UEFI to be up date I knew once that updates I would need to be UEFI All this was not for nothing though I now knew there is nothing wrong with Laptop for sure HDD was working so were all other parts So I narrowed it down to maybe BIOS issue So I went up to Acer Support and downloaded latest BIOS And re flashed the latest BIOS(Already had latest bios) Created New USB WIN10 IM with MBR UEFI Tried to boot from USB IM and Same error again Works fine in Legacy Boots Windows 10 and all is fine WHAT THE FUCK IS WRONG WITH THIS UEFI, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD SOMEONE PLEASE HELP I CANNOT FIGURE IT OUT CALLOUT TO ANY ADVANCED USERS PLS HELP Sorry for the unnecessary forced humor in Post, you know I learned great deal from Thor in THOR: Ragnorok I had to hide my pain with humor, I could have wrote in the reality but no one likes that, as did no one like Thor 1 & 2, it does what it was suppose to do to set the stage but No one like to hear you whining, So sorry for not keeping it professional

Hello, I built my first custom PC in July of 2017( MOBO: Asus Maximus IX Formula, CPU: Intel core i7 7700k, GPU: Asus Strix 1080ti, RAM: 32 gbTrident Z RGB 3200mhz, SSD: Samsung 960 Evo 500gb) and had no issues Until 2 weeks ago, when Destiny 2 Started Crashing unexpectantly. I have also tested this with other games, like Quake and the same thing happens: After about 5 minutes of playing the game without issue, it will unexpectantly crash back to my desktop for seemingly no reason. lighter applications don't seem to bother my system, but higher intensity programs seem to be the issue. I have completely reinstalled windows and updated every driver that I could find to try and fix this, but I have had no luck so far. I am a student currently studying game design as well as computer programming and this is my main PC to do all of my work for class, so this is urgent for me. Any feedback would be appreciated. I will also answer any questions as soon as possible. System Specs: Motherboard: Asus ROG Maximus IX Formula GPU: Asus Strix 1080ti CPU: Intel Core i7 7700k RAM: 32gb TridentZ RGB @ 3200mhz Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 500gb (Os drive), 3tb Wd blue PSU: Corsair HX 850i Cooling: full custom loop including CPU, GPU, & VRM's (flexible tubing) Note: I am also using a Thermaltake riser cable for my GPU just in case this becomes relevant OS: Windows 10 64bit, the latest version

hi I have been having a persistent problem with fortnite whereby when I start my game I will got 160 frames and 5ms ping in lobby but after a minute or so I will drop to 30 fps and 30 ms ping in lobby this also happens in game I don't know what the problem is I have reset my pc, verified my fortnite install and unistalled and reinstalled epic games launcher and fortnite. I would rally appreciate some help. pc specs: i5 3470 gtx 1050ti 8gb ram

Is it safe to use an 8700K just to download windows and graphics drivers for a couple hours? My CoolerMaster ML240L is coming on Sunday.

so my Minecraft has always worked on my computer but just last night when I went to launch my Minecraft 1.13 it froze and stopped responding on the White mojang screen. When I changed the version to 1.12 it worked perfectly fine but when I change it back to 1.13 it will freeze again. I tried to reinstall Minecraft and Java again but the issue still continues. But what makes this weird is that it was working fine earlier that day.

So I'm building a wall mountable PC with an atx mobo and psu. What im doing is using wood with carbon fiber on it and screwing the parts directly. However, i read somewhere that carbon fiber is a conductor so my question is that will my components be safe? If not, can i use rubber washers beneath every component to keep it from frying? Secondly i don't have any motherboard standoffs on me either (and it's impossible to get them by themselves, where i live. Trust me ive tried :'( ) so can i just screw the motherboard directly on to the carbon fiber applied wood by drilling normal holes? Perhaps with rubber washers in between for further safety?

I have been in a dire situation with my 1-year-old gaming pc: It is consistently crashing when playing 3D games, like Destiny 2 and Quake Champions for any more than about 10 minutes. before the issues start there is no indication of a problem, but after a little bit of time, the game just closes with a crash report to the desktop. Cooling is not an issue as I use a custom loop to cool my CPU, GPU and VRM's. I have noticed that overclocking my GPU has resulted in longer amounts of time before crashing occurs, but they never completely stop. (Performance is not the issue either, just look at what hardware I'm using at the bottom) I have previously reinstalled Windows, reinstalled all of my drivers and also tried to do some hardware troubleshooting as well. I still have no idea of what is really going on and what might be able to fix it. I am currently going to school for game design and I am required to work in Unity for a large number of my projects, if this is not fixed, it will surely be a detriment to my academic success, which is why I have marked this as urgent, as the semester has already begun and I am running out of time. Update: this seems to be an issue with my CPU, but I do not know how to fix it, as when I tried to stress test my CPU, my pc crashed. ANY suggestions/feedback would be appreciated I don't know if this will be helpful, but I was watching task manager during my last crash, I noticed that under GPU -> 3D, there was a momentary spike to 100% usage, then back down to 0. (The usual load on the GPU while playing more intense games is ~30%) System Specs: Motherboard: Asus ROG Maximus IX Formula GPU: Asus Strix 1080ti CPU: Intel Core i7 7700k RAM: 32gb TridentZ RGB @ 3000mhz Storage: Samsung 960 Evo 500gb (Os drive), 3tb Wd blue PSU: Corsair HX 850i Cooling: full custom loop including CPU, GPU, & VRM's (flexible tubing) Note: I am also using a Thermaltake riser cable for my GPU just in case this becomes relevant OS: Windows 10 64bit, the latest version

Hello. I sincerely apologize for the "urgent" in the title, I know this word can be misused, bit this time I really am in a sticky situation and need help sorting it out quickly. I'm currently in the middle of a very important working contract (I'm a motion graphic designer), but I'm almost completely sure my GPU is failing. What I need to know is if you can help me find a way to completely and accurately determine if the GPU is failing and not other components of my rig. My GPU (GTX 980) has been used at full pace for 4 years and it has been shipped 2 times around the world; it also came a bit bent from the latest shipping, so I was kinda expecting to fail eventually. I work both on a hackintosh (stable one, used it for ages) and a windows disk partition, but I'm experiencing similar issues on both systems. On my hackingotsh partition the computer crashes and reboot instantly without reason, a good 75% of the times, though, that happens when I'm working on a GPU intensive task. When i use the GPU on my windows 7 hard drive I randomly lose signal to my displays, but i can still hear the system sounds (as if the computer is still running but there's no GPU output). Updating the drivers and plugging and unplugging cables didn's solve it. Now on my hackintosh I also started seeing some graphical glitches for a split second before it reboots, while it was pitch black before. All of the things above makes me think it's the GPU that's failing, but is there a way to test this and rule out the other components? As a replacement I was thinking about getting a 1070 or a 1070Ti (depending on what prices i can find) to be urgently sent to me with the 1 day shimpment. Will my 700watt power supply be able to run it? (also the rest of the components) Here's my current rig - MSI Z97 GAMING 5 Mobo - Intel Core i7 4790K (NO OC, only Turbo Boost) - 32GB G.Skill Ripjawz 2133 MHZ DDR3 Ram - Gigabyte GTX 980 (apparently faulty) Thank you so much! I really mean it.

Just got the Asus rog Strix 1060 chucked it into a system that had never had a GPU only igpu and it has never failed me but when I put the card in the system plugged everything in i start the system and after a bit of loading (really low resolution btw) it goes black and after like 30min of waiting for nothing happens so when I boot in safe mode and install the drivers same thing any help also I suck at pc's also using a 6 pin and 2pin instead of 8 pin no power errors tho. SPECS: AMD A10-9700 RADEON R7 8gb don't know what speed ram 64-bit os windows 10 igpu ( or you know if i can get it 2 work 1060 )

Does molex and sata power cables have same power output? Im running usb 3.0 extension card that came with sata to molex cable for power. I was wondering if i can just use the molex cable directly from psu (Perif 1 port) to power it up. Need some fast reply

Hey all, Hope this is posted in the right section. So a friend of mine as an old ass computer for work. He can't afford to replace it. It is so slow that I can't even over-exaggerate how slow it is. He only needs it to Google Pictures and Prints them as he is a tattoo artist (It cant cope at idle) I believe the Issue is RAM. one of his RAM slots on the motherboard has died. He now only has 1gb of DDR2 RAM. We don't want to replace his whole Motherboard as I am not confident, especially with older systems. Can we just get a single Stick of DDR2 2GB ram? Plug and Play? Is all DDR2 Ram going to fit? Are the Sticks universal? Please See below system stats and the MOBO + RAM Installed Currently. Thanks in advance guys.