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Which of these GPUs will be better for Blender currently and after intervals of 3 and 6 months if software optimization were taken into account and how will the 16 GB vram on RX 6800 affect the productivity and gaming performance on games such as Cyberpunk 2077, against 8 GB of RTX 3070?
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No matter which way I try and shut down my pc, the screen will go black and the fans will keep spinning and then it will restart. I’ve tried disabling fast start up and tried pretty much every way of shutting down that I could find. Any help would be appreciated:)
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- shutdown issues
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Hi, I need help to decide whether to proceed with unit replacement OR continue with onsite/service center repairs OR use it as-it-is (with multiple issues). Two months ago, all of a sudden, I got one issue in my laptop (nearly 2 years old laptop) except that everything was perfectly working fine. The issue is that the start menu popping up on some key press other than windows key. Also, This mostly happens on the first boot of that day (everyday) (maybe we can call it as cold start) and most of the time disappears after sometime. Long story short. I had three onsite services for part replacements after remote diagnosis. Part replacement has not been done on third service as the laptop had more issues/replacements/failure after the last two service along with the above mentioned issue for which I have raised the ticket is not yet resolved. So, After escalation and multiple phone calls, they agreed and gave two options i.e continue with onsite/service center repairs OR unit replacement (As you all know, Refurbished and same/better specs/model based on availability). My Specs: Laptop: Alienware M15 R3 (Lunar Light) OS: Windows 10 Home (Version: 21H2) Display: 4k OLED 3840 x 2160, 60 Hz CPU: Intel Core i7-10750H GPU: Nvidia GeForce RTX 2070 RAM: 16GB, 2667 Mhz SSD1: KIOXIA XG60 NVMe 1TB (Toshiba) SSD2: Samsung 970 Evo plus NVMe 2TB Long Story: The issue is that the start menu popping up on some key press other than windows key (like esc, ctrl, fn, fn+volume up, up arrow, down arrow etc). Also, This mostly happens on the first boot of that day (maybe we can call it as cold start) and most of the time disappears after sometime. I raised a service request two months ago and support team did a remote diagnosis for nearly a month. Finally they decided to go with keyboard replacement. On 1st Service - The first technician wasn't knowledgeable/experienced and his work resulted in a motherboard failure. The laptop wasn't turning on the first boot after he left and I tried to turn on the same day after some time and reported the same day. Next day morning I got response from support team that to try discharging the remaining power by pressing power button for some time (I have done that as instructed). But didn't turned on. Even the replacement keyboard had different issue. when I asked the technician, he just asked me to reinstall software (He mean windows reinstall) and was silent after for whatever I asked. They scheduled another onsite service after reporting and complaining about the technician work and what happened. In addition to that, As per the support team reply, They ordered motherboard along with keyboard to isolate the issue. On 2nd Service - The second (senior) technician tried to turn on the laptop but failed. So he replaced the motherboard along with the keyboard and the laptop powered on. So, he concluded that no power issue solved after motherboard replacement. The function key was having mechanical issue on a second keyboard replacement. He ordered the keyboard again (third time) after discussing with Dell Technical Support. The Alien Head on the lid wasn't turning the lights on. The original (Start menu) issue was still there after replacement. Found that the issue (left/right arrow also registering when pressed up/down arrow key resp.) is even showing up on BIOS. Even headphone jack port is not working properly. Getting clicking/popping sound while playing something, seems like it is happening when the sound starts and ends. Tested that headphone on another laptop and mobile. After that, As the original (left/right arrow also registering when pressed up/down arrow key resp.) issue is even showing up on BIOS and knowing that the issue is probably the hardware. Still, I have done a clean install of windows 10 and updated all the drivers and other things from both windows update and Support Assist. But, found that the issue is still not resolved. On 3rd Service - The second (senior) technician came for the third service. He tried to reconnect the cables related to the Alien head lighting. But didn't worked. So, he called Dell Technical Support and after telling what he has done. They told him that this might be again another hardware issue and to solve that whole Display and Motherboard will need to be ordered and replaced/checked one by one. as they suspect the alien head is not getting power from motherboard and also whole display need to be replaced if the wire which is responsible for alien head light is damaged. As I told earlier, I had only one issue in my laptop except that everything was perfectly working fine. So I escalated and after multiple phone calls, they agreed and gave two options i.e continue with onsite/service center repairs OR unit replacement (As you all know, Refurbished and same/better specs/model based on availability). However, I have another option i.e use it as-it-is with multiple issues as mentioned below. Replaced Motherboard due to technician fault Start menu popping issue (Original Issue and this is the only issue I had before the service) Headphone jack issue Alien head lighting not working Not so good function key (mechanical issue) on replaced keyboard Kindly read this thoroughly, provide your opinions.
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- alienware m15 r3
- alienware
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I switched to windows 10 yesterday and today it updated, I had 10gigs of free storage on local disk c, now i only got 2.5, i selected all the folders and checked their propeties isn't it supposed to have a bit more space?
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- urgent
- i only got 2gb free space
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Hi, So I currently have a 980ti gpu with a 9700k cpu, and a 750W (gold I believe) corsair psu. The 980ti was bought on release in 2015 ish, and it seems to be dying (Frame freezing, blue screening, fps dropping). I've decided it's time to upgrade and am picking up a 3080 today. My main concern is that I forget how long I've had my psu for.. estimate is about 5 years. I'm fairly certain the 750w will be able to deliver enough power but I'm more concerned that if the psu is dying slowly from age that it will damage my other components. Should I bother upgrading to an 850W psu as i upgrade my GPU, or monitor for a bit and wait for the psu to certainly be dead.. I'm also not very educated on psu's so am unsure if they degrade over time or just completely die at some point. Any advice is appreciated!
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Hey guys I am looking for some help, as if someone could assist me in figuring this out it could save me a fair amount of money from having to replace any hardware ;-; So I have been having an issue for the past month or so. I have been getting random restarts during Gaming with no BSOD, only a Kernel Power 41 (63) Error code in Event Viewer after the system restart. Also all corresponding Bugcheck codes and Parameters are 0 in the event with also (70368744177664),(2) being the keywords associated with the error. Normally I would associate this with a PSU problem as I did have a failing PSU before with the same issue, however that restarted pretty much instantly upon opening up any game. Whereas this one is strange. I can play something like Hades for as long as a I want but as soon as the machine becomes pressured by playing something like Dying Light 2 (Random example) it can take anywhere from 30mins to 4hrs for a restart. In an effort to diagnose this I have done many things such as Reinstall and update all my drivers, reseat the RAM and test all memory with MemTest86, Updated my BIOS, Disabled C-States in the BIOS just to rule it out, Enabled XMP profile 1 for my RAM, Checked the health of both My SSD and HDD and even tried to force a BSOD in my settings to see if it would give me an error code. And all my tests have found nothing. Until Friday night, which was the last time I used my PC. When I decided to run an OCCT stress test, using the Power Test. It restarted within 10mins of running. I ran an automatic log with HWINFO and ran the test again, as OCCT doesn't show errors if the system restarts. If anyone has the time to look through this log and help me, it would be greatly appreciated! (It is in excel format as that is what HWiNFO automatically saved it as) Also the log would have cut off when my PC restarted again, so hopefully someone will be able to see what went wrong This is the second PSU I have had since 2017 and I really don't want to have to replace it again. It is the same brand and model as I had before. For Reference my PC Specs are: - CPU: Intel i7-8700k (3.7Ghz) Motherboard: Gigabyte Z370 Aorus Gaming 7 RAM: 32Gb Corsair Vengeance DDR4 3000Mhz (2x16Gb Sticks) GPU: 10Gb Windforce Eagle Geforce RTX 3080 CPU Cooler: Corsair H60 V2 Hydro Cooler PSU: Corsair 850W RMx Series Modular 80 PLUS GOLD Monitor: ASUS TUF VG289Q 28 Inch 4K HDR Monitor M.2 NVMe SSD: 2TB Samsung 960 Pro HDD: 3TB Toshiba HDWD130 7200 RPM (Used for Mass Storage as 2nd Drive) Thermal Compound: Arctic MX-4 Sound Card: Asus Xonar DSX (Installed but not currently being used) Wireless Card: 802.11 AC1300 867Mbps/5GHz, 400Mbps/2.4GHz (Installed but not currently being used) Thanks by the way Test1Log.xlsx
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- tech support
- random restarts
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Current Build- MSI MPG X570 gaming plus, rtx 3070ti ftw3, r75800x, psu- rm850x, vengeance 32 gb 3600 mhz. Hey, so recently I built a pc and 2 months into it, i started to loose video . Few seconds after loosing video, I hear the windows 11 default disconnecting sound and the only way to deal with it is to restart the pc. My first reaction was that its a gpu or graphics driver issue so i did the ddu installer and even switched out the gpu. The issue still persisted so someone recommended to switch out the ram, I switched it out with an old vengeance 3200mhz 16 gb and two days leather the same issue appeared again. I have done a stress test on cinebench and it was fine so i know its not the cpu. The only options that remain are the psu or the mobo itself. Anybody have this happen to them before?? Any help will be appreciated because at this point I am at my wits end.
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Hey guys i recently bought a 12 pin gpu cable from corsair for my 3070 FE gpu because it didn't come in the box when I bought it used. I noticed that these cards need a 12 pin adapter to 8 pin adapter. I was wondering if I use this 12 pin gpu cable from corsair and plug it into my 750 bq EVGA power supply, Will I fry my GPU? What steps should I take forward if it does?
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I posted this on Reddit but no one is helping me I used my computer two nights ago and everything seemed to be fine. I did not use it yesterday and I did not notice anything today when I woke up and used my PC for a bit. I walked into my room and I smelled a weird plastic smell and heard a buzzing noise from my UPS(Uninterruptable Power Supply), the sort of buzzing I hear from it after turning it on and off. I clicked the display button on it and everything seemed to be okay. I then turned my PC on and got an American Megatrends message saying "CPU Overvoltage error! Press F1 to enter SETUP" I suspected the UPS so I turned it off and plugged my PC straight into the surge board but I still get the same message. The UPS felt warm but I don't know if this is normal since I don't usually touch my UPS. I have reset the CMOS and still get the same message. I managed to get into BIOS and my CPU voltage was at 3.8v and my +3.3v was reading 4volts! My multimeter says my CMOS battery is at 3volts so I don't think that's the issue. My uneducated guess is that either the UPS stopped working properly and sent a surge to my PSU, even though my PC was off. My other theory is the PSU got fried and drew too much power, causing my UPS to overwork and emit buzzing noises and a weird smell. It could be the motherboard too, I don't know. I don't overclock or anything like that, the only thing I have done is DOCP my RAM which has never caused an issue. My motherboard is an ASUS TUF X570 WiFi CPU is Ryzen 5 3600 PSU is Corsair CX450M Please help me! Update: Replaced PSU with Bequiet! Straight power 11 750w, Still get the same message. In bios I am noticing the 12v rail and 5v rail are overvoltaged too. When I unplug the PSU I noticed the motherboard RGB light stays on for around 18 seconds. So I guess my motherboard is faulty? It makes sense I guess, considering my motherboard temperature sensor has always been broken and read -128degrees celcius. I tried updating the BIOS to the latest version too and that didn't help with the voltage problem. I looked once more in the BIOS and the voltages are fluctuating, they are either undervoltaged or overvoltaged. But the 3.3v rail remains overvoltaged at 4.080v. What is happening!???!?!
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Hi,so I bought a brand new i5 10400f today,installed the CPU but when booting temp was 70 at idle. I removed the fan,one of the pins took much more force to pull out, I found that the thermal paste is still intact and didn't apply to cpu. When inspecting the fan pins, I noticed that one of the pins is not like the other, is that normal and should I force it in agian?
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hello. recently made a new rig and im having trouble with booting to windows. whenever i try boot to my USB there is an error message, "An operating system wasn't found. Try disconnecting any drives that don't contain an operating system." I have posted on Tom's Hardware forum, had recieved some tips but none have worked, I'll list my specs and things i have tried down below as well as some specifics. I tried to boot it up this morning but I got faced with a "Insert boot media,etc,etc" I had this before but I was using an 8gb flashdrive that didn't fit the criteria. •Reformatting my USB drive to NTFS from Fat32 •Disabling CSM and secure boot, then booting to the USB •2 Options for booting to the USB, One labeled with a partition and UEFI and one without either •SSD(below) Is partition 0 •Booting to all of the different drives •Redownloading Windows Media onto the flashdrive • Disconnecting my SSD after I get into BIOS •BIOS and the error page are the only screens I can access •Changing the CSM to legacy mode + disabled Samsung 980 Evo Plus 1tb, Samsung 870 500gb Kingston Datatraveler 100 G3 64gb ,Gigabyte B550M DS3H AC, Sorry if its long just dont want to miss any details
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My specs (gaming system): Cpu: Ryzen 5 1600 AF Gpu: Msi gtx 1660 super Ram: ripjaws 2x8gb Storage: 1x Samsung 970 evo plus 2tb (c drive), 1x Samsung 870 evo 1tb(?) as a secondary drive connected through sata Motherboard: Asrock steel legend OS: Windows 10 64bit (unactivated) PSU: Corsair 850 Watt I have overclocked my parts before but this is months ago, I used Msi afterburner The story: I just finished dusting my pc case and turned it on. I have had no problems for months, everything as working fine. I tried to open steam and noticed that it crashed upon starting no matter what I did (tried all the troubleshooting stuff) before finally uninstalling it. I opened opera to download the installer, clicking the "download steam" button causes it to stop responding. Weird. I repeated this a few times before moving to chrome, which had the same result. I restarted my pc and noticed the shutdown and boot up both took much longer. After entering my password, there is no taskbar or desktop apps, just my wallpaper. Clicking it causes that fade-to-white that indicates a program crashed before the screen flashes black and displays my normal desktop. Any program will take about 5 seconds to launch, interacting with it in any way (even moving the window) causes it to stop responding. Clicking x will take round 10+ seconds to close the program, task manager included (it's bad when task manager stops responding). At this point, accessing my D drive, the 870 evo, takes a while as the progress bar slowly moves and then freezes at 95%, this never happened before. I shut down my pc again, which caused a blue screen, I googled the code (no, I don't remember it, only had it once) which told me it could be the ram or antivirus. First, I moved the ram into different slots, then tried each stick individually. None of this had any effect. Running CHKDSK fixed nothing and didn't find any errors. although it complained that it "couldn't lock" onto my C drive. I booted into safe mode and tried to launch cdiskinfo or windirstat, both of which don't launch (they did previously). Safe mode also has the same app crashing and slow behavior of normal booting. There is no difference between the two. I have sensitive data on my pc and I have no recent backups. What can I do? I doubt both of my Samsung drives die at the same time, the ram seems fine, what else could I test? I would be open to reinstalling Windows if there is a way I can transfer my data over, although I'm not entirely sure this is a software issue. I need to get my pc working ASAP, losing my data with a windows 10 reinstall is a last resort only What I already tried (and had no effect): restarting moving ram to new slots CHKDSK trying sticks of ram individually reconnecting SSDs safe mode
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I just installed a 1TB Samsung 980 SSD. I have heard about the Samsung SSD issues that has popped up recently but these came into light after i had already purchased one for my self. I heard 980 Pro has the SSD failure issue. I've got the non pro one. Do I need to update firmware? If so. How do I do that?
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Acer Nitro 5 AN515-54 (Laptop) RAM upgrade
MrBat101 posted a topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
I'd like to upgrade my Acer Nitro 5 AN515-54 (Laptop) from 8GB to 16 or 32GB DDR4. How do I decide which type of RAM do I use? And which type of RAM do you recommend me to use? The details of my current RAM is in the pic. -
Im looking to buy the 10900k and was wondering if either asus rog strix z490-f gaming or asus prime z490-a would be enough. Im also a beginner overclocker and would like to be able to overclock the cpu. Also what amount of psu watts is good for 10900k and 2080/2080 super, since i want to do some basic overclocking.
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Hi, I've found a used 2080 msi gaming x trio for a really good price (about 630$). The problem is that it has been used for 2 years already. Is that a big deal? I also only have a i5 4690k with h97n motherboard to test it on. Will it last much longer because im not gonna upgrade for probably at least ~5 years
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Hello, as stated in my last topic (nobody answered me) my laptop doesn't seem to read the gpu, I guess a vbios mismatch from the previous owner. Does anyone know/have by any chance a backup vbios for the GTX 980M (10DE 1617 - 1028 0688) for the Alienware 17 R2? I can't find it on techpowerup vbios archive. Any help would be much appreciated!
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I need some serious help! Today my PC shut down completely out of the blue. Now, when I try to turn it on again, it turns on for half a second and the fans turn a bit before turning off again. It does this repeatedly until I turn it off from the plug. I've tried everything! Reseating the RAM, checking connections, disconnecting the GPU, DVD drive and anything else non-essential and even removing the CMOS battery and waiting before putting it in again. I'm at wits end. What do I do?
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Ive just attempted overclocking my I7 5960X. I ran IntelBurnTest on Very High and with all 8 cores hitting 100% load i was getting between 92 - 102'c. Ive set the CPU strap to 125, core clock speed to x35, boosts to about 4.4ghz. I have a corsair h110i gtx as a cpu cooler. Is is strange for me to be getting these temps. What is a safe temp that i should be running my cpu at? Ive got a second 1080FE on the way and it would be nice to not cook my cpu before it arrives.
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1st problem I have a onboard speaker that i dont know how to mount. I dont know which orientation is right. It says in the maunal to attach the front usb, hdd, speaker etc to this module but i dont know which of the two cables, red and black are ground or +5v? Is this speaker attached the right way or should it be reversed. Tell me which picture is right, 1 or 2? Option 1. Option 2. 2nd problem Secondly I need help wiring up my motherboard. The manual is a POS. Its an X99 E WS. I have connected the 24pin EATXPWR and EATX12v but there are still 2 empty ports, one 8 pin EATX12V1 and another 6pin EATX12V_1. I have a Corsair AX1500I PSU so i have plenty of power available but im unsure if it is necessary to connect the addition cables. My setup is: .i7 5960x running stock .16gb Dominator Platinum .Corsair H110i gtx .Corsair AX1500I .GTX1080FE .Elgato HD60 Pro .Soundblaster ZXR .Asus Hyper PCIE addin 256GB SM951 .M.2 512GB SM951 .2x Samsung 850 pro 512gb Raid 0 .2x Seagate Furecuda ST2000DX002 2TB SSHD Raid 0 .1X Western Digital Black 6TB HDD I know only the pcie addins will be drawing power through the mobo, but is it necessary for me to connect the extra EATX12V1 and EATX12V_1 cables to power this? This is what the manual says. Should i leave the additional EATX12V1 and EATX12V_1 or not?
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It seems like ive spent more time on these forums than i have on my pc. After getting my OS installed, reseating my RAM, partitioning my hard drives and downloading Teamspeak, etc, I then realise my bloody sound card (soundblaster ZXR) and capture card (Elgato HD60 PRO) arent working. Neither are detected in the bios or control panel, i cant download any drivers because the pc hasnt detected the hardware to install the original ones. This whole build is turning into one repetitive bloody nightmare. Does anybody have any idea or suggestion for me?
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Had a working pc, completed the build yesterday. Used it to install windows on a laptop hdd, pur the correct one back in and doesnt work. PSU works, tested. If I connect the mobo then it doesnt work. Have tried removeing ram and gpu and drives. i5-7400 new 8gb crucial ddr4 new nvidia 760 ti toshiba brand new hdd new msi b250m pro-vd