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The water in my loop just bearly makes it around and just drips in the reservoir. I have no idea why it used to work before i was just replacing the water in it. I tought it was a clogged up cpu block causing the problem but no i replaced it and removed it from the loop still no difference. Normally the pictures are in the right order soo you can follow the loop.

Hello , I’ve been having issues with my new pc I built … only had it for about 2-3 months … I have 3 monitors … my specs are i9 13900k Nvidia 4070 Founders card ,, Rog strix Z790 e gaming wifi motherboard.. and I’ve been having an issue with my start up… ever since I tried to delete my Nvidia drivers to move them to a different nvme.. and well once I had deleted and re installed .. it kinda bricced my displays on start up .. where when it boots it only detects one monitor sometimes … and than I have to like manually turn off than back on my second monitor than all my monitors like flash on all connected … this issue had only started happening after I deleted and re installed Nvidia drivers … maybe corrupted drivers ? Or did my Bios automatically switch boot up to integrated graphics im just so confused I’ve been doing trouble shooting for 3 weeks

Hi there, I've read several reddit feeds from the past and they all seem to be somewhat confusing. This doesn't always happen so I'm wondering what might be the case here. Just then my computer blacked out twice just on browsing Google and YouTube A while back like 1.5 years ago my pc started making this loud fan noise and screen blacked out after booting up These are the parts I have CPU AMD Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor Motherboard ASRock B450M Steel Legend Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard Memory TEAMGROUP T-Force Delta RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory Storage Western Digital Blue 2 TB 3.5" 5400 RPM Internal Hard Drive Western Digital Blue SN550 500 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive Video Card Gigabyte WINDFORCE OC GeForce RTX 2060 SUPER 8 GB Video Card Case Corsair 275R Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case Power Supply Gigabyte P-B 650 W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply Is there any troubleshooting steps that you'd as newbie like me trying before going to a computer store to disagose the issue? Thanks in advanced IMG_3510.mov

I have a pc with a A320M-A Pro with Ryzen 3 3200g, 32gb ram and a gt 730 that i bought second hand and im trying to use the integrated graphics the Radeon Vega 8 which is way faster that the gt 730 but the issue is that everytime i try to use the integrated graphics my computers goes to automatic repair stays there for some time and then just turns off but its still running basically everything goes black but my fans are still going and the lights of the case are still on, i have tried reinstalling windows but everytime im reinstalling it reaches 70% and then the computer turns off again, i was able to get to windows login screen but after like 15 seconds the pc turned off again and i was able to use the pc with integrated graphics and it was a huge difference it was like 4x the perfomance in games but then the computer went to sleep because of being stopped for 15min and when i tried to click the keyboard to turn it on the keyboard would turn on when i pressed it and then turn right off again so basically the computer turned off again since then i have been trying to find a solution for this problem.

My PC was working 3 days ago, and then I packed it up since I was moving houses. Now after I try turning it on, it won't show any signs of electrical activity whatsoever. My fans don't turn on and nothing lights up. The power supply and motherboard are getting power because if I attach any of my peripherals, they light up. However, the PC won't turn on at all. I had just kept it in my car while moving. Any ideas what could be wrong?

I'm going to paste my response to an older thread of someone having the same issue with two brand new EVGA PSUs. "I'm having the same exact issue with a brand new EVGA 750w Gold PSU. All values are normal and within range EXCEPT for the PG value is flashing and beeping 0 ms. Got the PSU from a guy recently for free because he couldn't get it to work, but it's brand new off Amazon and he never ended up returning it. I assumed he just did something wrong and I'm seeing this issue for many EVGA PSUs. Any info would be appreciated."

Hello. Excuse me, but I need some help with my expansion drive problem, I need the data inside it since there are so many private and important stuff in it. So, previously I pulled out my expansion drive while it still reading some data because I'm in a hurry to get out of the house. When coming back and checking on the drive, it won't show up on My Computer even though it's connected, there is a usb connected sound. I checked the Disk Management menu, and Picture 1 is how it looks. I tried to look for the solution online, and some local forum suggest to Rebuild the MBR so it won't erased the data while fixing the problem. The forum tell me to use the Minitool partition wizard, which I did, shown in the Picture 2, but the every option for the drive is greyed out. Please help me, I need the data inside the drive but I'm also too broke to afford data recovery service which very pricey in my country. Thank you in advance for the answers.

Hi everyone, I'm new to the LTT Forums so hopefully this is an ok place to post. I currently own a Razer Blade 15 Advanced with an i7-10875H and an RTX 3070 (95W TDP) and I've had it for about two and a half years. About every 6 months, I open it up and clean the dust out of the fans and the heatsink using compressed air, but I have noticed recently that the CPU is idling at about 70 to 80 degrees Celsius even after most of the dust is removed (at least from what I can see). The GPU idles around 50 degrees which I'm not worried about. When I first bought it, it was idling at around 30 to 50 degrees and cleaning it would help a bit, but over time it still seems to be getting hotter. I don't live in a dusty environment and the ambient temperature is always around 20 degrees at the moment. The temperature is not currently a problem unless I load it (and then I just figure it's a laptop so I'm expecting throttling and 95 to 100 degrees anyway), but it is currently winter where I live and it might become more of a problem in summer. Should I be looking to replace the thermal paste? I am comfortable with doing so, but I would rather avoid doing it if it isn't necessary since laptop components are particularly delicate. My laptop is also my only computer. Are there any other ways I can decrease my temperatures while still maintaining performance? I have seen that some solutions involve undervolting, but I have little experience with altering voltages and clock speeds. At least from what I can see, there is not a huge amount of information about this online, and what is there appears dependent on specific hardware and situations. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

The issue: Both my old and new PC crash while gaming/under load. No blue screen or freezing, just *poof* complete shutdown. Sometimes after 15-30 minutes, sometimes longer. After it restarted I can immediately start gaming again till it crashes again after some time... So because both systems experience the same exact same issue I would assume the PCs are not the issue? Temps are low on the new system so overheating seems unlikely. (below the parts of my new PC) I've tried different outlets in my apartment and different power cables but no success. Could the issue be my apartment's electrical installation? I don't know where else to look... Would a UPS be a solution? What are your thoughts? -Lian Li O11 Dynamic EVO ATX Mid Tower Case -AMD RYZEN 7 7800X3D PROCESSOR 4.2 GHZ -MSI RTX 4080 16GB VENTUS 3X OC NVIDIA GeForce RTX 4080 GDDR6X -NZXT Kraken 360 - RGB - Black -Asus Prime X670-P -Kingston 32GB DDR5 6000Mhz (2x16GB) -be quiet! Light Wings PWM 56 CFM 140 mm Fans 3-Pack + NZXT F120 RGB Core 3-pack -Samsung 990 Pro 1TB M.2 -Corsair RM1000e Location: Europe, Belgium

I've noticed that when I plug in my Western Digital USB Hard Drive, it will say that there is a driver error when I go to the "Bluetooth and other devices settings" section in Windows. Before this, qBittorrent was giving me an "I/O device error" on the torrent I was trying to seed from that drive and when I would unplug it and plug it back in, Windows would tell me that there was a problem with the drive and that I should scan the drive to fix it. Scanning the drive did find errors, but even after I had Windows scan the drive, I kept getting that notification. Eventually, I got a BSOD with the stop code usbstor.sys. After I got that BSOD and the system restarted, I no longer got that notification, but I then started getting the driver error and slow transfer speeds that I mentioned before. I tried using a different cable and plugging the drive into different ports, but neither of these seemed to fix the issue. When I tried plugging the drive into another PC, instead of seeing a driver error, I got a message that said that the driver was unavailable. CrystalDiskInfo said the drive was good. When I ran CrystalDiskMark on the drive, I got 110MB/s reads and 77 and 107MB/s writes. Operating System - Windows 10 Pro 64 Bit (Windows 11 installed from the factory) (Full retail version) Age of system - 1 year OS Installation Age - 2 Months CPU - Ryzen 7 6800H GPU - Radeon RX 6650M System Manufacturer - HP (Omen) Model Number - Omen by HP Gaming Laptop 16-n0033dx I have attached a zip file containing my CrystalDiskMark and CrystalDiskInfo results as well as a .dmp file from when the BSOD happened and an HTML file that I got from going to the Windows Performance Monitor and waiting 60 seconds. I would've done it by running perfmon /report from the command line, but every time that I've tried that, it gets stuck on "Collecting data for 60 seconds" every time I try to do that. HardDriveIssue.zip

internet cafe owner here. something happened in roblox installer in which it would just crash and close program. this never happened before in my rental pcs. and before you ask, my rental pcs are relying on diskless system, in which all of them will rely on a vhd acting like an "image OS" that's connected to a server (aka my pc). no writes will happen on the image OS and therefore it never saw any changes for months. and then roblox installer just suddenly decided to just crash and kill itself, losing customers. I'll just show the thing in video https://youtu.be/PyqinQ6sB9U

I plug everything into the mother board, and power it on. The monitor says no signal and turned off. Tried it with 2 other monitors and it did the same. All monitors work. Then I updated the bois and it installed the new bois. When I plugged the monitor in it had the same message of no signal. Please help, I don’t know what wrong.

Laptop: DELL Inspiron 14 2-in-1 7430 CPU: Intel Core i7-13000u CPU: Intel Iris(R) Xe Graphics RAM: 16GB 4800mhz OS: Windows 11 Home BIOS Update: Updated approx. 10 hours ago from time of post. Software running when crashed: Chrome (a prompt comes up saying Chrome didn't shut down correctly), more. About a week ago I bought a brand-new DELL Inspiron 14 2-in-1 laptop. Everything was going fine and I was generally having a good experience as it was a huge upgrade from my previous machine. However, a problem that I instantly found was that whenever the laptop was put to a sleep state, after being left in the state for say 30-60 mins, the laptop would shut itself down/crash/turn off on its own, meaning that all windows and tabs in browsers be closed. At first, I believed that I had misconfigured something in the Power Options, Power Plan, or Change what the Power Buttons do settings. All the time values (e.g When to sleep after inactivity) were (I believe/d to be) normal (please check attached images) and each option from the Change what the Power Buttons do settings were all set to sleep. The options were clearly NOT the cause of the issue and I even got remote aid from DELL support. The only change made to the Power Plan (Advanced Power Settings) was the time the SSD was inactive until it would be turned off from 1 minute to 2000 minutes. The DELL Support staff did update some drivers and the bios and did some diagnostics (no problem). After investigating if the work arounds did in fact work, the problem seemingly persists as it manages to shutdown/crash/turn off 30-60 mins after being put to sleep. This problem can have a huge impact on work as it could lead to data loss on projects etc. when it shuts down/crashes/turns off. Is there anything that I could do to fix this? I am still at liberty to return the laptop thanks to the 30-day return policy. Also it's my first time posting on a forum so hopefully I didn't do anything wrong! Thanks in advance!

I have a nzxt h510 case and currently have the 2 black fans that came with it i also have a rgb coolermaster aircooler with the rgb on the fan not working as coolermasterplus+ cant detect the air cooler i want to add more rgb upgrade fans and mabye even get a rgb aoi for my ryzen 7 5700x, under a budget what should i get?.

I have a head-scratcher here. Multiple games (Dual Universe, Baldur's Gate III, WH40k Darktide), Discord, occasionally other applications will simply crash. Most of the time, event viewer shows nothing. I have multiple other machines that are less powerful and run all these fine, as well. Specs: OS: Win 11 Pro 64-bit (10.0, Build 22621) Processor: i9-13900K @ Default settings Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB DDR5-6000 32GBx2 (XMP I enabled @ 6000) Motherboard: ROG STRIX Z790-E GAMING WIFI (BIOS ver.1202) PSU: Corsair AX1200i (1200 Watt, 80 PLUS PLATINUM) GPU1: Nvidia GeForce RTX 3090 Ti Founders Edition (Driver version 536.99) GPU2: EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 FTW GAMING Drive: Crucial 2TB - CT2000P3SSD8 Troubleshooting tried: - I've tried to rule out software/os/configuration by disabling all other applications, running windows services only, and both refreshing and reinstalling a clean version of windows, multiple times. I did have a 980 Pro that ended up crapping out and the current install is on the Crucial drive. Problem remains. - CrystalDisk said drives were good. - Memtest86 on RAM, multiple passes on default settings, multiple passes on parallel setting with extra tests enabled, 0 errors - Removing all extra peripherals - Full GPU driver uninstall/reinstall - Using only 1 GPU - Swapping to different GPU (EVGA GeForce 3080 FTW Ultra) - Default BIOS settings - Temperatures all seem fine. I've likely forgotten some of the steps I've taken at this point. I haven't swapped motherboard (don't have another), though it doesn't feel like any of the mobo issues I've ran into in the past. Same for power supply, and their app reported no issues. I'm usually good at solving problems but this one has me at my wit's end. I humbly ask for assistance. Thank you.

Hello. So I recently handed down some old PC parts to a friend to get their dead PC back up and running. ASUS ROG Maximus XI Hero Wifi Intel Core i9-9900k 32 GB ram Corsair RM850 PSU Friend provided new boot storage, case, and GPU. My old parts had been stored in their original boxes for the last few months. They were my daily driven components until I upgraded to a Ryzen 7000 series rig. Anyway, I rebuild his machine, get a successful post, update bios, and get Windows 11 installing. Right off the bat, the BIOS interface is on the sluggish side. Takes about a second to switch menu items. Secondly, the windows installer took a bit longer than usual given I was installing to an NVMe drive. Once we got into windows I immediately new something was up because the machine felt comicallly slow. I got HWmonitor and cinebench installed (chipset and other hardware drivers were installed at this time) and ran it. To my dismay, I noted that the CPU package was only drawing 40 watts under load and core frequencies were bouncing between 800 mhz and 4700 mhz tending to stay at 800. Temperatures barely touched 40C at their peaks. Clearly the CPU is not running correctly and is hitting some weird power limit or isn't being fed adequate power. I have verify secure seating of all PSU cables including the 8pin+4pin for the CPU. Things I have tried: XMP on and off, no change. ASUS MCE on and off , no change. In windows, power plan set to high performance. I'm kind of at a loss with this one.

Hey everyone. I figured I'd come here because I'm at a loss. I'm a very experienced PC builder and even do government tech support for Microsoft so I'm not new to PC's by any measure. However, after setting up this new build, I feel like I'm missing something. Repro Steps: 1. Install fresh copy of Windows 11. (Completely new ISO) 2. Boot the system. 3. Watch the pre-system checks succeed. 4. BSOD occurs even before being able to get to Windows setup. (Image is boot attempt result after first BSOD.) Components: GPU: MSI Radeon RX 7900 XTX CPU: Ryzen 9 7950X Motherboard: Asus ROG Crosshair X670E Hero RAM: 128GB G.Skill Trident Z5 NEO RGB Storage: Samsung SSD 980 Pro x3 BSOD Error: System Thread Exception Not Handled Troubleshooting Completed: Cleared CMOS Includes disconnect of power and removal of motherboard battery prior to re-install and run attempt. Tried different RAM kit: 128GB G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB Determined that this was not officially supported by the motherboard which is why I went to the above model under components. Reseated CPU Reseated GPU Reseated RAM Double verified that RAM is actually fully seated as the motherboard is a bit tight. Reduced installed DIMM count to 1 module. Tried another operating system: Windows 10: Boots on one stick but crashed shortly after with another BSOD. Manjaro Linux: Works completely fine but I am trying to use Windows mainly for now before going back to Linux. Reduced RAM speed to 4800Mhz from 6200Mhz Attempted to enable EXPO 1 System never even posted. EXPO disabled by default so this is not the cause. Only enabled once for testing purposes. Updated BIOS to most recent version (Released about two weeks ago) Disabled Fast Boot Note: GPU confirmed as working as I have my old PC on a box, test bench style, using it without issues. I'm at a complete loss. I have no idea what to test next as far as actually effective troubleshooting steps go. If you guys have any ideas, I'm more than willing to hear them. Thank you so very much in advance. P.S. Sorry for the bad formatting. Doing this on my phone while I desperately try to get my PC up.

I have an ASUS ROG G20CB, I was hoping to upgrade my GTX 980 to a GTX 1080 and windows isnt detecting it in the device manager. I have reset the CMOS, I've updated BIOS, I tried a different cable, I reseated the card, I only have one slot, I checked the power cables, GPUz doesnt see the card, I DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO. Help.

I bought this monitor 2 years ago and recently a small dim spot appeared on the bottom. I kind of just ignored it hoping it would go away or that I would just deal with it, but suddenly it has grew to the whole height of the screen. Now the dim spot is sometimes large and other times back to the original, small, size. Is there anything I can do to fix this? Monitor: https://www.lg.com/us/monitors/lg-34um69g-b-ultrawide-monitor

Hello, I have FH5 on Steam on my PC, and I have tried everything under the sun to try and get this game to open. I have verified the files, uninstalled completely and reinstalled it, updated windows, updated my GPU drivers, reinstalled MS C++ libraries, closed background applications, set the game to run as admin, reset MS store, disabled fullscreen optimizations, but nothing. I haven't played the game since almost a year ago, and I don't remember ever having this issue. I also cant seem to find a potential error code in event viewer. For more detail on the issue itself, I will go and try to open the game, the small "splash screen" or whatever that's called flashes for a few seconds, then it disappears and doesn't open. I am not resetting my windows installation just to play this game, so what else can I do?

I'm kind of exhausted and I'm looking for some help. My pc keeps crashing after about 5-60 minutes of gameplay. This issue has persisted even after I replaced my CPU and cooler as well as a whole host of other troubleshooting steps, and now I don't know what to do. Below I have included my pc's current and former specifications as I upgraded several components last weekend. The upgrades have not resolved this issue at all. Below I also included the steps that I have taken so far, as well as event logs, the minidump file that was generated through using Driver Verifier, and anything else I could find that is relevant. PC Specifications (Pre-Upgrade): AMD Ryzen 3 3100 w/ stock Stealth cooler CORSAIR Vengeance RGB Pro SL 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 ( ASUS ROG Strix B550-F Gaming EVGA SuperNOVA 750 GT Intel ARC A770 Limited Edition Elgato HD60 Pro Capture Card tp-link Archer TX3000E Wireless Card Samsung 970 EVO PLUS M.2 2280 500GB ADATA SX850 SATA SSD (boot drive) Post-Upgrade changes (07-29-2023): Upgraded CPU to AMD Ryzen 5 5600X3D Upgraded cooler to DeepCool AG400 ARGB Single-Tower CPU cooler Transferred my boot drive onto a new Crucial P5 Plus 2TB PCIe M.2 2280 drive using MiniTool Partition Wizard. [IMPORTANT NOTE: Crash issue was encountered several times prior to changing components, and has persisted through the hardware update.] I checked Event Viewer and found the most recent critical error which caused the system reboot. The error event file has been included below. I re-seated both my GPU and RAM. I updated drivers for every component and did a full DDU of my graphics drivers. I updated the BIOS of my motherboard to the most recent stable software available. I performed a MemTest on my RAM last night, and the RAM came back with a 100% pass score. During the several hour long MemTest my computer did not crash. This makes me consider that the power supply may not be the culprit here. I ran multiple benchmarks with Borderlands 3, keeping HWinfo open to monitor temperatures. I performed a driver test using Driver Verifier through Windows. The computer crashed only twice and not three times like I expected after talking to a Microsoft forum tech, then it initiated a repair. I then booted into safe mode to cancel Driver Verifier through an elevated command prompt, but it reported that the program had already been closed. I then restarted the system and left for work. When I returned home I deleted the Elgato capture card driver that was supposedly causing an issue according to the minidump file that was generated, and removed the capture card from my system. This doesn't seem to have helped, as the system crashed again 20 minutes later, several minutes into Borderlands 3. (The system has only generated a minidump file once, and that was after using Driver Verifier.) I opened HWinfo and ran Borderlands 3 for a second time after the crash, initiating a log and keeping an eye on my temperatures. The system did not crash again. The log file has been included. BL3Log.CSV 080123-5734-01.dmp crash.evtx

For the past 2-3 months I've had an issue where my CPU will randomly drop to 0.4 GHz even though it's nowhere near overheating and is on full battery. I've tried and tried again to fix the issue but cannot find any solutions. Laptop Specs: Model Name: Lenovo Ideapd Gaming 3 15ACH6 - Type 82K2 AMD Ryzen 5600H 16 GB RAM @ 3200Mhz Nvidia Geforce 1650 Max Q Normally: In Games: The max CPU temp that Lenovo has set is 80 degrees. The issue only seems to happening in games, I have no idea why. I've seen intel users have the exact same problems and solutions for those included ThrottleStop which isn't available for AMD CPUs. I've tried resetting Windows, installing Windows from a fresh ISO, updating my BIOS, reinstalling my graphics drivers and nothing has worked.

PC specs: - 5600xt sapphire pulse - Ryzen 5 3600 - MSI b450 mortar max - 16 Corsair vengeance 3600mhz - 2x Samsung m.2 nvme ssd - 800w psu Corsair Issues: Low GPU usage, FPS drops, frametime spikes and GPU clock speed drops in all games and amd adrenaline stress test. The GPU seems to be unable to consistently run over 30% usage, either low usage with a slightly higher clock or higher usage miserable clock speed (from 1700mhz-> 6mhz), CPU usage remains below 50% in all tasks and thermals for CPU and GPU seem fine <70 degrees. Attempted troubleshooting: - latest bios flashed - turned off all combination of ram OC and CPU OC - fresh windows install + newest drivers - disabled ulps Conclusion: I'm completely stumped, I don't remember it ever performing this bad a couple months ago but this build seems to have had low level performance issues since it's creation (random ctd and black screen). Most of these were fixed by turning off the ram xmp and running a lower freq overclock ≈ 3200mhz with ram timings provided by mobo 'try it' memory oc feature. It's left gaming on this pc to be a stuttery inconsistent mess. The only other thing that changed is that I upgraded from a 144hz monitor to a 240hz one but I don't see why that would change things. If anyone has any further troubleshooting advice that would be grand. Oh and I have never used a forum before hope the formats ok, cheers.

As the title said. I recently upgraded from an old college laptop to a new PC and I'm not sure if a graphics card is supposed to have the red LED on all the time? I'm sorry if this has been asked before but I'm really new to these RTX cards.