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My grandfathers PC has been working just fine with this monitor for months. One day it flickers, and finally goes to simply stating “no hdmi input”. Monitor works just fine with other computers, even with the same cable. The computer works brilliantly with other monitors, including my personal Dell. For some reason his computer and his monitor simply refused to talk to each other. So finally we decide screw it, let’s buy him a new one. A Dell S2721HN. Same problem. Scans for signal, then says no hdmi signal from device. I’ve done driver updates and reset the PC’s Bios, all the windows updates, swapped cables, ports, the whole 9 yards. Still no dice. Short of buying him a new computer, what might I be able to do to get this thing working?

Hello, I face a problem when i use my atx corsair psu in oem dell optiplex 390 motherboard, i plugged the 24 atx connector and the 4 pin for cpu ( actually i have 8 pins but i split it in two) the light orange show up but when i turn on pc, there's no signs of anything, cpu fans doesn't turn at all, i tried many times but no result, however when i use an old matx hp psu 300w it work fine, pc turns on, so you will said that the problem is from psu but it isn't, i try this corsair with other pc and it works fine, so that's true there are psu which are no compatible with some motherboard?!

Hi. I downgraded to Windows 10 after about 4 months with Windows 11. And now this message is showing in my start menu constantly. Does anyone know how to fix this?

So I bought this specific mic from ebay: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/225054921941?hash=item34665194d5:g:o5UAAOSwSGNivtHW&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwJr6Er8iI7SC%2F9%2BnZJQkjag6YXGRChj7ZxTE8Jp6nYNqIZcogzNw%2FMW5Rld0ZizEapBHHrEUZPpTW4WR%2FerHC6xNcb57u4h3miyFzAX1%2FFrOMMd4I14DpwwALmf9naFGnZeDwzCot3aQ8HVuK6YdQJvMUvQ%2FsiSZ8aTTmmGUr%2BQdKESG3UoXvxElZoJ3C%2FCpjzpTGMKmfqbcFCwuPOZCPBJoVgAqIS5j7a6m0ndGXhQTMKtpCUy61zNorPryzplyzg%3D%3D|tkp%3ABlBMUOrcyo-lYw But It won't work on pc, I try to plug it in to my desktop but all it does is say that its connected. It doesn't actually work, Windows doesn't recognize it I think or smth like that. Please help me!

Hi, Sorry if my topic was a duplicate topic or in incorrect topic but right now I'm clueless what should I do without spending money for no reason. My problem is that in my previous PC (Which was a 9900K 32GB 3200MTs z390 with an RTX3080) had no problem playing games except the cpu started to show its age. I upgraded my pc to 14900KF, 32GB 7600MTs Z790 build but with the same RTX3080 10GB GPU because I thought it will be still great. Now the problems have been skyrocketed. I'm getting "Out of video memory" error like there's no tomorrow, even from some games like Hogwarts Legacy which had absolutely no problem running. Now I can't even start the game without having the error message. What the hell? Is 10GB that seriously not enough? Does my OS SSD affect something like it's not PCI-E Gen4 but Gen3? Where would my bottleneck laying down? I'm not planning to upgrade my GPU but I'm getting seriously desperate because it will also affect my capability of streaming or just simply having fun playing games in my new expensive config. Thank you very much in advance!

Hi everyone! I'm having issues with my motherboard and I think I'm at my limit as to what to do next so I thought I'd try seeing if anyone with more expertise than me could help. I decided to build a PC for my girlfriend during Christmas which lead me to buying an already pre-built one second-hand from a guy that refurbishes PC's. I was trying to upgrade to a Ryzen platform from my FX-8350 and the guy was offering a Ryzen 3 1300X slotted into a A320M PRO-VD/S motherboard. Since he was offering the build for pretty cheap I impulse bought it since the components overall were better than what I currently had. I tested the rig for a couple of days and it seemed to have no issues. I swapped my graphics card and power supply from my old rig alongside my SSD that had my Windows partition installed. I booted up to an error message that said that it couldn't find a boot drive (I later realized that somehow during the swap my SSD just kinda died). This lead me to do a pretty stupid thing and I restored my BIOS to it's defaults in the BIOS settings. Here's the main issue. After restoring the BIOS to the default settings the computer wouldn't post. The 1300X needs a BIOS update in order for the motherboard to be recognized. I assume that this is where the problem lies but I can't access the BIOS settings to update it so I'm just looking for potential solutions or just confirmation that the motherboard is bricked. I've been trying to diagnose the problem on my own through just googling it but I think I hit a brick(ed) wall in terms of solutions. The state of the computer now is that the fans turn on but there's no post. The CPU light on the EZ-Diag is blinking (but since the manual for the board just says that that indicates that there's "an issue with the CPU or it's not recognized" it doesn't really help). I bought an Athlon X4 970 after I've read on the manufacturer site that it supports the earliest motherboard version but after popping it in the CPU light on the EZ-Diag is constantly lit as opposed to blinking with the 1300X and it still doesn't post. I've tried taking the CMOS battery out for the night and retrying the two CPU's but it didn't change anything. I've tried jumping the JBAT\_1 pins since the manual said it would restore it to it's default state but that didn't change anything either. Beneath the JBAT\_1 pins is what I assume a BIOS version number - MS-7A36 Ver. 1.1 but looking at the manufacturer's site, every the last version number that is supported by some CPU's is 7A36v20 (which is why I tried buying the Athlon in the first place and that didn't work). I can't figure out which CPU I'd need to get in order to post with the default settings if that's the problem in the first place. The specs for the build are CPU: Ryzen 3 1300X (+stock AMD wraith cooler) GPU: RX 570 4GB PSU: EVOLVEO FX 550W RAM: 2x4GB Patriot Viper Elite DDR4 Motherboard: A320M PRO-VD/S with BIOS version 7A36 Thanks to everyone for the feedback.

Hey so my screen is choppy, im 100% certain its not a monitor issue, i tested 3 monitors on the same pc and all of them had the same problem and all of them different refresh rate testing, on a different pc which is worse this issue didnt happen. So basically it looks like the frames are choppy and on the online ufo test the ufo is like glitching back and forth and so does the background. It happens on every refresh rate, every speed of the ufo test, yes my bios is updated and yes i tried freesync and vsync. My nvidia drivers are the new ones. I tried older ones, i tried ddu, i tried unplugging gpu and plugging back in, i tried different gpu ports, i reinstalled windows and i downloaded a program and saw my gpu frame time is jumping between 6 and 200ms Specs: R5 7600, RTX 4070 I just tried my old pc it was completely fine and that pc is so much worse aswell. The nvidia driver update was the same on both pcs. This issue happens in games aswell but gets fixed a bit when i have other games in the background for some reason, and also gets fixed when i limit the fps in that game to 360, if i the fps on even 280 it lags like crazy. Even on a 144hz monitor 240fps is laggy and 360 is ok. Thank you everyone for helping. I already made a redit post on this but i added a few details here, thanks everyone for the help. Btw this issue started happening a few days ago. ON THE VIDEO, LOOK AT THE TOP ROW IN THE BACKGROUND OR THE UFO, YOU WILL SEE SLIGHT LAGS (THE SCREEN IS NOT SMOOTH AT ALL) Thank you everyone for the help, i really appreciate it. 20240124_153320_1_1.mp4

Hello, I was wondering if anyone has or does uses LTT’s MarkBench and got it installed successfully. I’m stuck at the poetry part and would like some assistance.

I went to take a nap (left PC on) woke up some hours later to find PC was off, no biggie. GF said we had a brief power outage for like 2 seconds. I turn on the PC and it's stuck on the Asus boot screen with the circle thing spinning to no end. I hold down the power to restart a couple times to go into Safe Mode and when it goes into Repair Mode, I just get a black screen. Weird. I went into the UEFI and everything is fine, my boot drives are all being recognized, at boot my motherboard doesn't give me any indicator lights and a Q-Code status of A0. So that all appears fine but windows doesn't seem to want to take over. I then removed my GPU for good measure. I prepare my Windows 11 Media USB and boot from that. After a short bit it only takes me to a solid light blue screen with nothing else but my cursor. I find this to be odd behavior. Possibly a corrupted file within Windows? Everything is detecting and seem to operate fine. I'm really hoping I don't have to mess with the BIOS. Currently under an ice storm and don't feel comfortable doing that sort of thing with unstable power conditions. My system is: CPU- Intel Core i9-10900K Asus ROG Z490-E Gaming EVGA RTX 3080 G.Skill 3800mhz 16GB X4 Primary boot is Samsung 970 Evo 2TB Please tell me what you think. A total reset would be really annoying.

Posting on behalf of a friend. Just built a new system 7800x3d Msi 4090 850w corsair psu Asus b650-a But it crashes under sustained gpu loads. The crash has been successfully reproduced using heaven benchmark and typically happens between the 8 and 15 minute markers. * Using hwinfo I can see no indication of high temperatures cpu is below 80 c under stress with cpu-z and gpu below 70 c while in heaven benchmark. *Inserting an old gpu (1070) yielded no crash after 20 minutes. *All psu connections have been removed and reconnected. *Fast boot disabled *ram removed and shifted to alternate a2 and b2 slots Calling out to any ideas or recommendations on what to test next or any possible solutions to this strange issue.

Hello, I am about to upgrade my PC and have a few questions about signal rgb compatibility/recommendations. If I have compatible fans, motherboard, but my controller isn't listed on the website,can I still use the controller to avoid having to use an rgb splitter?I am planning on purchasing the Cooler Master SickleFlow 62 CFM 120 mm Fans and the NZXT H9 Flow ATX Mid Tower Case. I would like to fill out all of the fan slots so using less fans isn't really an option. For my motherboard I have the MSI PRO B650-P WIFI ATX AM5 Motherboard which I also cant change as I purchased it with a bundle and am not sure about the return policy. For my budget I was looking at about 20-60 dollars for 9-10 a-rgb ports. I have been looking at the zalman z sync controller and have found a listing at at a reasonable price, though the controller only has 8 slots so I would need to use a splitter for two fans which defeats the purpose of using signal rgb's custom profiles. My other option I have seen is the Gelid Solutions Amber 8 Pro which I got from this post here: This controller would be perfect to have as it has the 10 ports I need along with PWM ports for fan power. Even though it is from the official sub, when I checked the website for signal rgb compatibility, it was not listed. Please comment your recommendations while considering my criteria Secondarily, I was planning on buying the NZXT Kraken 360  AIO, which is good for the price, though when I checked the signal rgb site to see if it was compatible I saw that the other nzxt coolers like the z73 are compatible, while the newer kraken 360 was not. I am assuming that this is because the z73 has the older nzxt fans with the outer ring rgb, while the kraken 360 has the updated fans with blade rgb. Though if the cooler is unsupported, I am concerned the the nzxt cam rgb software may fight for control with signal rgb. Do any of you know what would be the right pick? I'm not really wanting to upgrade to the z73 because of the near 100$ price jump though. If i need to switch could you please recommend me other aio's with LCD's. Thank you for your time readying this post, and hopefully thank you for your kind recommendations.

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OS: Windows 11 Home version 21H2 build 22000.2538 MB: X570 Aorus Elite Bios version: F38h (latest version as of today) CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X 8-Core Processor RAM: 2 sticks of G Skill Intl F4-3600C18-8GTZRX 8GB in slots 2 and 4 GPU: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2070 SUPER GAMING OC 8G PSU: Bequiet Straight Power 11 750W Previous SSD: Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1TB New SSD: WD_BLACK SSD SN850X 2TB Good evening, I'm creating this topic as a last hope to fix my issue. Thank you for your time. Dearly, C. Goal: Have a fresh install of Windows 11 Home on my new nvme SSD. Tools: Windows 11 Installation Assistant from this page of the official website. I am using a 32 GB Phillips USB flash drive as bootable device. Issue: After going through Windows Setup once and the PC restarts, there is no bootable device aside of my flash drive. Windows Boot Manager on the new SSD is not detected. Note that the old SSD is not connected during the whole installation process. Also, note that the new SSD can currently correctly be used as a storage drive: it is functioning. I have also installed the latest firmware on it. What has been tried so far... (I might have missed a few things, I read and tried so many things) Concerning the installation tool: (note that I have used this USB flash drive for all my previous Windows installation, last one being earlier this week) Using Reset this PC functionnality from Windows 11. Downloading the ISO file and dumping it: Using file explorer. Using Rufus. Using Windows 11 Installation Assistant on a different system to create the bootable device. Clone my old SSD onto my new SSD using balenaEtcher 1.18.11. Concerning the format of the new SSD: Made sure the disk has the GPT standard. Made sure I have a FAT-formatted partition which act as an EFI System Partition in order to be a UEFI disk. Concerning the BIOS: Installed the latest version. Disabled CSM. Disabled Secure Boot. Concerning the Repair Boot Configuration: After installing windows, booted back onto the USB flash drive but selecting Repair your computer. Opened a command prompt: When first checking bootrec /rebuildbcd, there was no identified Windows installations. diskpart: sel vol 2 assign letter=z exit bcdedit /export c:\bcdbackup attrib z:\efi\microsoft\boot\bcd -h -r -s ren z:\efi\microsoft\boot\bcd bcd.old At that point, bootrec /rebuildbcd returns 1 identified installation, but nothing has changed when rebooting. Screenshots: The output of bcdedit shows that the Windows Boot Manager exists The front page of the BIOS with No Bootable Device Found. The boot menu of the BIOS.

So I built a new PC last week and finally got it to work off my old SATA SSD. Once it was all good and setup, I cloned the OS onto my new P3 PLUS m.2 and checked to make sure I could boot off of it. It worked when I switched my boot drive manually by spamming f11 as the PC booted. So I assumed everything was good. I cleared out my old SATA SSD to free up space, and it still worked fine. I played some games and went to bed. I was super busy this week so I didn't try and use it at all until today and it gave me this dumb blue screen. It turns off after sitting there for 3-5 minutes. My keyboard and mouse LEDs won't turn on, and the computer doesn't take input from them. I don't have a USB drive, is there anyway I can fix this and what happened. Im getting fed up. I already tried removing the SATA SSD btw.

Hello everyone, I need help. Past week i check my bios and my 12v rail on my mobo was showing 24v instead of 12v. And the 5v rail was at 6v+. All the temp sensor are going haywire showing unreasonable temp such as 0c and below 20c while my ambient temp at the lowest was around 30c. The mobo is MSI MPG B550 GAMING EDGE WIFI. And sadly out of warranty already. So RMA is not in my option. I tested the mobo with other psu but still have the same issue. I unplugged everything even the m.2 ssd to check if there is short or something. But still the 12v is showing 24v. Reflash the bios and still having the issue.

I was building a PC and when I was finished the PC wouldn't turn on. The motherboard DRAM light stays on so I assumed it was the dram although it wouldn't turn on no matter what configuration I had the RAM in. When I pulled out the CPU this is what I saw on one of the corners (check the two pictures) I have included a pic of another corner as a direct comparison. Would this be somehow causing a faulty reading from the motherboard? Is a 7950x toast now?

Hey I’m having a pc problem right now. It started a week ago when I was playing some games then randomly I get a solid brown screen so I had to restart my pc in order to fix the issue but it kept happen but with different colors like blue or red solid colors. The one day the pc screen turned black so I restarted but this time pc gave me no display and the cpu fan I believe was spinning max rpm and the only thing I did was reseat the ram and clean the slot then it worked. Fast forward s couple days later same thing happen but when I tried cleaning the ram slots and reseating the ram the cpu fan was still spinning max speed. I tried multiple things like inky trying one ram sticks into multiple ram slots, and swapping out the cmos battery but nothing. The only thing change is that when I turned back on the pc same issue has happening but cpu fan was not spinning max speed anymore but after a couple of restart of the pc the cpu fan went max speed again. I’m really stumped and hopefully someone can help me! Sorry if my English is bad it is not my first language

So I finished building my new PC yesterday and after 3 hours of blood, sweat, and tears, I powered it on. I breathed a sigh of relief when it went into BIOS, but that quickly turned to frustration. It powers on, all the fans spin to life, and every component is detected ( I5-12600k, 2x8GB Vengeance LPX 3600mhz CL16, GT 1030, MSI PRO B760M-P DDR4, and 2 drives, my old SATA SAMSUNG 870 EVO 500GB with all my data and Windows install, and a 1TB P3 PLUS from Crucial.), but it won't make it past BIOS. Every time I unplug it, or restart it, it just goes into BIOS and won't post. I've tried removing the new SSD, switching SATA ports, and nothing works. I can't switch BIOS mode to legacy, and it just won't detect the SATA as a boot drive. Please help!

if you don’t want to know the background and issues and skip to the question just go to the bottom. For some background I built a sfx build about 2 years ago with a 5900x and a 7900 xt. I have had pretty consistent issues with stability ever since I have built it. But mostly has never been a real issue. In the past month however I have had one to two stability related issues a week. I recently got a Bambu x1c 3d printer which has a weird power demand, it’s very spiky with enough draw to flicker my lights in the circuit it’s plugged into. Unfortunately my pc, which has already had stability issues is part of this same circuit. the stability issues I have noticed: the motherboard lighting fails and or pump lighting/control fails (requires a restart) early on, gpu would fail on startup, required manual selection of pcie gen 3 gpu would display incorrect resolution/framerate on startup (requires a monitor restart) gpu will soft crash under load (3d rendering disables itself and frame rate seems to be 5 fps) (requires restart) (mostly fixed this by increasing voltage by .005 volts) Gpu fails to load drivers/drivers break (requires uninstall and reinstall) computer randomly shuts off when under moderate to high load on either gpu or cpu crashing under long cpu loads crashing under large gpu draws (limiting frame rate fixes this) foldingathome software when run instantaneously crashes computer when 3d printer is running, pc crashes randomly/is a lot more likely too crash any amount of static discharge from myself touching anywhere on the pc immediately crashes pc. the big issues as to why I’m asking help now running Bambu studio sending a print, computer shuts off with no warning and or sigh of doing so. Fine, shut power supply off, spam power button, flip power supply on. Hit power button, instead of the usual click I get from the system/psu. I get a brief arcing noise with no click, with system booting, about every brain cell in me goes “thats not a good sound and I should shut this thing off” and I did so my question is should I risk turning my system back on since it did technically boot, or should I rma the psu to play it safe or another thing? I don’t know, I’ve never had power supply issues and I don’t really know how to diagnose such things. is there other things wrong with my System? I would really like some help with this

Recently finished building my computer, It booted into the bios, code Ab, so I plugged in my mouse and keyboard and the motherboard code b4 came up and even after unplugging them b4 still hung, I looked in the manual and its for "usb hot plug". I re plugged in my usb connectors (3.2 gen 1 and 2) and got the code again, plugged them into my motherboard usb rather than my case usb and still got it. Even with the b4 error code the mouse an keyboard still work fine. I've been sitting on an msi support ticket for 3 days with the only answer being "what's your bios version" (which I already provided), tried the live chat and just got redirected to the forums (0 results) I asked reddit, and got nothing Is there a fix? should I just ignore it? is this normal? I've had my pc build for the last 4 days. 20240104_182943.mp4

If I could get some advice would be greatly appreciated. Long story short my PC was rebooting while gaming anytime I had a ram stick in my 2nd slot. At first I thought bad ram so I bought new ram sticks then it would crash games a lot. PC would work just fine with 1 stick in 4th slot. Sent ASUS motherboard after talking to rep said warranty would cover. Now they have denied warranty coverage. So I went out and bought a MSI tomahawk motherboard. Now I can’t get PC to boot with Red CPU light on. I have tried calling MSI and going through trouble shooting. Updated bios. Checked connections. Re seated CPU checked CPU pins. They are suggesting I take motherboard back. Could this truly be my issue here or is there something else going on I am at a loss

Today I came back home to find my AOC 24G2Z is having problems with artifacting. Everytime I turned it on, it will display the AOC logo with an artifact that to be honest isn't really important as it doesn't effect general use but this just makes me worried since I've been using it for a year without any problems before this. I've tried turning it on and off, unplugging every single HDMI and DP cables but nothing changes. Is this normal for AOC monitors in general? WhatsApp Video 2024-01-03 at 3.30.29 PM.mp4

I am trying to reimage an SRNC-17 G2 HP Miltope but the bios is locked due to a previous user putting on a password then promptly forgetting it. Is there any way for me to reset the bios password on this system without sending it back to the manufacturer? I have attempted removing the CMOS battery (which did nothing).

Just began building my PC yesterday and eventually came across the issue of my NZXT Kraken Elite 360mm not operating as it should be. The three RGB fans are not spinning yet they are connected to SATA power from my PSU. This specific Radiator comes with an RGB controller with which the fans are connected to and plugged into a USB 2.0 Y connector that is also used by the Pump to share a single USB 2.0 header on the bottom of my Asus Maximus Z790 Hero motherboard. The RGB for the fans DOES WORK. However they don’t spin on startup when receiving power like most videos and guides show. The LCD Display has never once turned on despite switching around the SATA connector and 3-pin pump connector to either AIO_PUMP or CPU_FAN. (The manual for the AIO said either could be used, but I’d just have to fix the CPU fan speed error in the bios.) One of my troubleshooting methods was to connect the three Cooler fans into a different fan splitter that was being used by my case’s three front-panel fans. Which allowed them to actually work. This helped me narrow it down to the connection being the issue. Not the fans themselves. Im assuming my LCD has a dead backlight, and my breakout cable is defective. Since this cable specifically has my three fans, the pump connector, SATA for power and the USB 2.0 connector for the motherboard all in one place.

I just wanna know if this PCIE slot is beyond saving and if I should try inserting my GPU still