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Ok so... I recently bought a Keychron K10 for my GF as a birthday gift. She deoesn't know it yet, I just got it and I will mod it until her Bday. The only thing I can't decide is which switches to get. She will use it on ber job so it shouldn't be the loudest switch ever, it has to be linear and not too heavy. pre lubed would be nice, however I don't care as long as it doesn't scratch. Of course I could buy some single switches to test but I'm living in Europe and custom keyboards are not very popular here (at least I had a hard time with my own keyboard) and not every seller has hundreds of switches available. So I would buy from like 5 different sellers and I want to avoid that. I looked up on several YouTube videos and reviews on different switches and here's my list of switches I got an eye on: gateron milky pro yellow/red ktt strawberry jwk hera durock black lotus gateron north pole (kinda expensive) akko cream yellow pro What do you guys think? Any suggestions?
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Hello, I've tried mech keyboards at the LTX last weekend. I walked away pretty impressed with the Kailh Sherbet switches. I'm new to the mech keyboard scene, and trying a few of the keyboards on display there was basically the first time trying anything besides Cherry mx blues and browns. The sherbet switches felt great to me, the only comment that came to mind is maybe with a bit of lube they'd be amazing. I want to get a low-profile keyboard. I'm considering a Nuphy Air96. So the question is, which low-profile switches are the closest to the Kailh sherbet switches? Thanks! Edit.. hmm after doing some reading about the sherbets maybe I should try more key switches.
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Hello.. I have been using my bloody b820r keyboard for a quite long now. The keyboard is doing fine but realistically i am done with lk blue optical switches it came with.. no offense the latency is great but i wanna try linear switches.. blue switches are so loud.. since my keyboard is an optical mechanical keyboard which to my knowledge will only work with optical switches.. so I can't use cherry switches.. and the other lk switches like red are not available in my local market or on aliexpress.. there are so many gateron optical switches.. now i wanna confirm can i use those gateron optical switches on my keyboard? Since the only online option my country support is aliexpress. Other ones like ebay and amazon get stucks in our customs. So plz give me some suggestions which switches i can use
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Apologies for the rudimentary picture (10/10 ms paint skills) Basically I want a 2.5gbps connection between my PC and my Unraid NAS, gigabit is fine, I don't NEED 2.5gbps i just want it haha! My NAS has an SSD as a cache, so copying files is currently limited by the gigabit connection as indicated by the 113mb/s transfer speed (i assume with some overhead, theoretically 1000mbps = 125mbs?) The picture explains it reasonably well, but to reiterate, if i upgrade that gigabit switch to a 2.5gbps switch, would my PC and NAS then have a 2.5gbps connection to one another? i'm using SMB on windows to access the shares on unraid, so i wondered because of it using the network, does that communication go through my access point which would limit it back to gigabit speed? The coloured lines indicate the ethernet runs so that if needed you can refer to specific ones, they're a mix of cat5/6 i can check and specify which is which if that is relevant! Also if it would just be a case of replacing that switch with a 2.5gbps one, any recommendations? Also the NAS doesn't actually have the PCIE 2.5gbps port card yet, so any recommendations for that too would be awesome! Thanks in advance!
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Hi everyone! My name is Dylan! I purchased a GMMK Pro TKL barebones set from Microcenter a little under 2 months ago and built myself a custom board! I wasn't planning on making the purchase, but a friend and I had planned our first trip to Microcenter after seeing everyone rave online at how crazy their store was. We made the trip just a few days before my birthday, and they only had a single ice white gmmk pro and a single polycarbonate plate in stock. I took it as a sign and bought them. (For anyone who cares, I have the ice white barebones with a polycarbonate plate, durock v2 stabs, and nk creams switches! keycaps are an inexpensive set of dye-sub PBT caps but I want to upgrade to a nicer set soon!) I had some issues right out of the box where some switches (b, v, and ?) really struggle to register when pushed. In the beginning, I'd say 65-70% of the time it would register. Now, the keys listed above and a few others REALLY struggle to register their key press. At this point in time, I have to press the "b" either 10 times or, or press it extremely hard to get it to register. I don't know everything, but I have enough keyword knowledge that I was confident I could figure it out! First, I swapped switches. Figured that was the easiest option! All switches I put in each socket appeared to have intact pins, and I even tried different types of switches. No luck Next, I tried reinstalling all the software for the board. Despite the frustrating software, I managed to reset the board internally and reinstall the current version of the software. No luck. At this point, I had tried about all I could without taking the board apart. It was time. I disassembled the board and took a good look at the pcb. From the beginning I had suspected the soldering on the hotswap sockets to be loose. Maybe I didn't notice when building the board and when putting in switches I popped them out? No. The PCB looks perfect! Not a hair of solder out of line. This is where I turned to Glorious for help. I explained my situation and they had me run through a few more troubleshooting steps before accepting defeat. Their original response to me was to contact Microcenter for the return due to my purchase being from them. Understandable. Because I was contacting Microcenter after their 30 day return policy, it was explained to me that my only option was to drive to the location I bought the product at (not very close to my apartment) and attempt to convince the working store manager to allow me to make the return. I don't know about yall, but driving over 90 minutes to convince someone I received a defective product was not something I was looking forward to. Luckily, Glorious was kind enough to honor their warranty after I explained my frustrating interaction with Microcenter. At this point (sorry i know you've been reading my life story) I am being sent a replacement board. However, I don't want this one to go to waste! I will be reusing stabs, switches, keycaps... but the barebones kit is rendered useless due to the partly broken PCB. I have contemplated a few options to attempt to give it some life... I could do and resolder the hotswap sockets to see if that fixes the switches... would that be worth purchasing a soldering iron to attempt to do? If that does not work, is anyone aware of an aftermarket pcb I can buy that will be close to the size of the one for the GMMK pro? This TKL layout has some offsetting for media keys and arrow keys so it's definitely not a standard size! Glorious does not sell their PCB alone, and told me the warranty would be voided if I attempted to solder. I have a friend who would be so grateful to receive this currently faulty board if I can spend some time and money to get it to work! Any suggestions would be WONDERFUL! Thanks!
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Hey everyone, now I'm using this mechanical keyboard, but it's not hot swappable. I want to replace my switchs but the only switchs available in my country is redragon a113 but it's labeled as hot swappable switches. I'm unsure if I can use these switchs , can anyone help me?
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Good day all, I am in need of a KVM switch to be able to switch my equipment from my personal pc to my work machine. Here is what I have Personal PC Keyboard Wireless Mouse 2 1080p 144hz monitor 1 1440p 165hz monitor Work Laptop Running Linux Fedora Dell Latitude 5420 I was looking into things like HDMI/DP switches just for the video but then I realized that switching my keyboard and mouse and all that over will start being a pain as well. Does anyone have any product recommendation for a KVM that wont break my bank, my budget would be probably under $200 USD but would prefer someone not as high, if it needs to be higher please let me know why and I will consider. This is the first time I will be experimenting with KVM switches so if you need more information about my pc or the work let me know if that is needed. Thanks!
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So I recently purchased a Razer BlackWidow V3 Pro and I really like all the functions like RGB, media keys, customizability, but I really despise the stabilizers and switches. I am seeking to put some Akko CS Wine Red switches and some DROP Panda EverGlide Gold Stabilizers, but I hate soldering (I am fine with desoldering), so I was wondering if I can desolder the switches, put the new switches and stabilizers in, and put the board back together without resoldering. Will it still work or will I have to resolder in order for the board to function?
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Hi everybody, I'm working on a project for school about technology and I have to see whether the IT structure of a hotel is functional enough or if things can be updated. As I'm not really knowledgeable about firewalls, switches, routers etc. it would be nice if somebody can review it and give some advice! The hotel is 25hours Hotel The Circle, located in Cologne (Germany). It has 8 floors and 207 rooms. I'm leaving attached the scheme of the IT structure, so it's easier to understand. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
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Which is the better pair up for alice style the keyctron q8 https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q8-alice-layout-qmk-custom-mechanical -keyboard?variant=40077527449689 or the YMDK Wings https://ymdkey.com/products/gbymdk-wings-aluminum-cnc-top-bottom-qmk-rgb-hotswap -v1-pcb-diy-kit?_pos=3&_sid=540558df9&_ss=r&variant=39348940832829 to use with these style caps https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MGGGMPV/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_9?psc=1 i prefer the low profile an narrow square an id use the 2 numpad - an + as spacebars an pair with either the TTC Hey Linear Swtiches https://kbdfans.myshopify.com/products/ttc-hey-linear-5-pin-swtich#waiting_list if i can get while in stock or go with the Kailh BOX Switches - BOX Dark Yellow https://novelkeys.com/products/kailh-box-switches which iv had before an like an for either board with either switches should i use gloriousgaming O-Ring Keyboard Switch Dampeners the 40A - Thin versions an which is the better alice wing build quality the q8 or the ymdk an do the TTC Hey Linear Switches shine-throw guide make a diff for rgb
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Hi All, Just a small tinkerer so will do my best to explain what I want to do and hopefully I can gain some insight. Location: Australia, QLD Internet Connection: Fiber to the Home - limited to 100mpbs (yes Aussie internet sucks, fast costs way too much) Modem/Router: TPLink Archer AX10 (so this acts as my modem really) I currently have a Netgear switch which has 16ports (8 are POE and 8 are standard). I also have Some access points which are hardwired (Ubiquiti): 2x UAP-AC-Lite (inside the house 1x UAP-AC-M-Pro (mounted on roof - I live on property so wanted wifi in the yard) Cloud Key Gen2 Plus There is also 5 data points inside the house connected to the switch. The switch is powering the Cloud Key Gen2 plus and the 3 access points. So this is the current setup - hopefully I have explained that well enough. But now what I want to do..... I have a 3 car bay shed in my yard which is about 20meters away from the house. I have built out 1 of the bay's to turn this into my entertainment room (computer, gaming, movies). Presently this is just a frame and I am having the electrician around in 2 weeks. My neighbour is a communications tech and has kindly offered to run a 10gb underground cable from my house to the shed. The shed will have need of 10 data points at this stage, so I am thinking adding another 16 port switch in the shed to split that 10gb cable coming through. I question is going to stand around the switches, the one in the house which will connect to the shed and the AP's and other data points inside the house. The Switch in the shed is really just splitting that up to the 10 data points inside the shed. What suggestions can you give me around the switches (remember not an expert so like simple and easy to use)? Do I even need to care about this? Anything else I should be thinking about with this expansion? If I have missed something or you need a little more info just ask. Thanks in advance, Trent
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Ok, so I want to change keycaps on my Ziyou Lang T87 keyboard by using a Hiro's Art keycap, and on the website it says that they are compatible with Cherry MX switches and its clones. I was looking for the kind of switch the keyboard had, and I bought the keyboard on Amazon. So i looked on Amazon and it said "blue switch". And i'm not an expert on keyboards because i just want to change keycaps, so I browsed the internet looking for what kind of switch I had, and i never determined what kind of switch it was. What does "blue switch" mean (as in is it a Cherry MX blue switch or something else) and what kind of switches does my keyboard have?
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Hello everyone. For information, I use modded (tape mod, Neoprene foam between PCB and plate, and on bottom case) Varmilo VB87 with lubed and filmed Gateron yellow switches. I use it both and at home and work, so it gets transported a lot. I experience issue with double clicking/no click on some of the switches from time to time. When I soldered switches, first month or so was good and everything worked. After some time passed, one of the switches started to double click or no click at all. I switched it to a new one and the life became good again. After like a week or two weeks, another two switches started to malfunction. Yet again, I switched them to new switches. Right now, about like eight switches have the same issue. My question is, can a very light layer of lube on copper leaf or tiny dust, which may/ have entered inside switches cause this? If not, my only guess is that I just got a bad batch of switches.
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kb : GMMKPRO 75% (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09966HJT6/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A1DYE0JBXZTW6W&th=1) switches : Drop + Invyr Holy Pandas (https://www.amazon.com/Drop-Invyr-Panda-Mechanical-Switches/dp/B08HPMYG4T) i don't have a budget, just tryna get myself something for Christmas open to any suggestions ^^
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I would like to build a new mechancial keyboard my current keyboard is the corsair k70 mk2, with silvers. Im in the market for a new keyboard but the prices seem a little nuts to me. I would like to build a keyboard from the 150 - 200 canadian dollar range. I think I want my keyboard to have either gateron ink blacks or ink yellows, and a hotswap pcb would be preferable.
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network Advice On Adding an AP to my FWG an Replacing Older Gear
johnny45 posted a topic in Networking
ANY thoughts on me using one UAP-AC-LITE-US an a USW-Flex-Mini (via one of the poe ports) connected to a ubiquiti US-8-60W 8 Switch (60W) to connect to my firewalla gold router to cover my 1250sqft home for my two 10in ac wifi tablets ,my moto phone an my roku express 4k an wired gear im looking to upgrade an replace some current not so great network gear currently are running off my TL-SG108E switch an tp link ac4000 router that in ap mode which both seem adequate my current config an load out is this for my wired the two linux pcs , nvidia shield , two seperate 10tb nas drives (1 per pc) , voip obitalk box (for my lan phone) an printer are run off the TL-SG108E an for my wireless the tp link ac4000 is mounted in the middle of the hallway on a shelf which is dead center of my home an its in ap mode has the 2.4ghz radio is turned off an the two 5ghz radios on with the two tablets are on one 5ghz rad an my moto phone an roku are on the other an the signal strength for both is set to medium which low to med to high makes no diff in speed just rangemy resone for using medium is to keep the signal to my home an not my yard or neighborseverything seems adequate except for when im using both tablets a roku at the same time afrer about an 1hr to 3hr it varies regardless of use the signal tanks an both of the units seem to freeze an then conk out then have to be reset after a 10min break no clue why would switching to the stated ubiquiti gear help an be a good pick also to reduce clutter by having just one power cord an the 2nd switch an ap run off the poe connections my max budget for new gear to cover wired an wireless is 320$ that includes shipping an tax-
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Hi! I bought my home not too long ago and I since I am doing some remodeling I want to make a new wired network for it. I am a complete noob at this but so far this is what I have planned: - I am unsure if I should add a hardware firewall. I have express vpn and I want to somehow incorporate it -- I'm not sure if I should get a new router. - The items in the map are all of what I plan to have wired - I also have stuff I will be running on my wifi, like tablets, phones, printer, and ac hub (ecobee). - I am considering using cat7 (see link) for all the wiring since a 1000ft spooler doesn't seem terribly expensive and I would be running the lines through the walls. I want each bedroom to have at least 2 ethernet ports and the entertainment room and office to have at least 4. - I have not decided what cameras, server for cameras, or poe switch ( maybe this one? )to get. I'm also unsure of what unmanaged switch to get. I am considering getting this switch Thanks for taking the time to read this! edit: I also found this Cat6a cable, but seems to be even more expensive than the cat7 I linked above?
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I was wondering, I do some speed cubing and I have cube lube. would this be a good replacement for switch lube?
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I'm planning to buy some gateron yellow switches but while browsing for some I found that there was a milky version and a clear version. What's the difference?
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Hey guys, I hope everyone is keeping well and my apologies if I've placed this into the incorrect thread. Quick question, I've an older HP 2810-23G J9021A switch in my home network cabinet. However, the fans are quite noisy so installed a couple of resisters on the switches fan headers. My question and idea is, would I be able to install an internal toggle switch to the switches internal fan circuit, that would allow me to switch between "full speed" and "half speed"? I was simply going to cut the fans cable, connecting the 12v lead to pin 1 on the toggle switch, with outputs; pin 2 12v to 12v (full speed) & pin 3 12v to a resistor cable (half speed). While leaving both the GND & yellow signal cable the same. I just don't know how the switch would react with the added switch or if their might be any negative effects? Many thanks in advance!
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I am thinking about buying an Royal Kludge rk61 which has ABS keycaps and i want to swap them out for PBT ones. But i heard that it has North Facing LEDs wich apparenty means that some Keycaps wont fit. What do i have to look out for or what do i gave to search for to get compatible Keycaps? (If you know a good set just comment the link) Thanks in advance!
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I'm building a custom keyboard with the KBD75v2 case and PCB and planned on using Glorious Panda tactile switches. I also wanted to use 1.8mm LEDs and solder them to the PCB to backlight the keycaps. The problem I'm having is finding anything online that tells me if the switches allow enough space for the LEDs without interfering with the movement of the switch and keycap. The only thing that the Glorious website says is that they have a large hole to allow light from an SMD LED to shine through, but nothing about compatibility with two leg LEDs. It looks like in the picture below there is an opening, but I'm not sure if it is big enough and want to be certain before purchasing them. If any of you have used these switches before and have any knowledge or advice to give me, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks!
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Hello everyone, I would be very grateful if I get some help finding a keyboard that fits my needs. I am currently using Cherry MX Browns on the Corsair K95 RGB Platinum. I dislike its chattering and I am looking for a heavier switch and a sturdier keyboard (low key wobble). I want a fullsize keyboard since I use the numpad often. Thanks
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I've been looking for a new keyboard, as my current membrane is starting to break and it's too loud. My microphone placement isnt the best due to my horrific desk, so my typing noise is picked up and its quite annoying. What is the quietest mechanical switch?