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Hi, I have a Microlab X15 set for many years now and while I was listening music (kinda loud I admit) the subwoofer made a sudden boom noise and then stoppped working. The other speakers are working right,only the subwoofer doesn't. I checked the fuse,looks intact. I checked every cable, the software,everything. Thanks in advance

I've been having some issues and thoughts regarding my computer Subwoofer, and hopefully some folks here might have thoughts and opinions that might help me out. Plan: Hook up both computer sound system (PC Speakers) and entertainment sound system (AV Receiver) to same subwoofer, either thru y-adapter or switch. Equipment: Subwoofer: Advent AV009sub AV Receiver: Sony STR -DH520 PC Speakers: Yahmaha YST-M8 (connected to iMac and PC) BESIGN Ground Loop Noise Isolator a plethora of cables and adapters iPhone 5s Issues: I've run into several things during this adventures. 1) (Ground loop?) hum With everything hooked up, I would get (usually) the following hum from the subwoofer. Subwoofer Hum.mp3 a friend I've been consulting, and googling have lead me to believe a ground loop is the cause of the hum. I say usually because while it was indeed usually there, I had some trouble getting the fail state to be absolutely consistent, but from research, the hum and the 2 inputs plugged into separate outlets and then hooked to the subwoofer on a third one seems to point to that. The hum would be there if I used a y adapter, a switch, or put one device on each channel of a stereo connection I got a "ground loop isolater" off Amazon to try, plugging it in at the subwoofer, but it did no good. I tried plugging all 3 into the same outlet (ok for testing, not practical for day to day due to room size) and seemed to get no hum. I used the receiver and my iPhone plugged into the speakers for the auto input. (computer too far away for to be plugged in.). Putting the speakers and subwoofer back into place, I learned that I got the hum when the computer was plugged into the speakers, but not when it was not or the iphone was plugged in. On a whim, I plugged the ground loop isolater into the pc Speakers...first between the iMac and the Speakers, and then at the output from the speakers to the subwoofer, and the hum appears to have gone away. This works with both a Y Adapter and the switch. SO, for this issue, is it case closed/problem solved? Or is there something else I should be looking at? 2) Signal Strength/Feedback Before learning about ground loop hums, I had thought this was an issue of feedback along the y adapter I first tried. I was reminded of this while doing the "all at the same plug" tests. When both inputs are plugged in, the volume coming from the subwoofer is much lower than when only one is plugged in. I assume this is due to power leakage along the Y branches. For a while, I considered trying to build a 1 way Y adapter, using diodes to prevent the leakage, but, well, I'm not smart enough to do that. After letting the project sit..for years..I went with the switch idea...which led to the hum, and see above :). SO, for this issue, is there a way to have both sources connected at once (thru a Y), rather than using a switch? Would I need a full on sound mixer to do this? 3) Lower volume from Receiver This is more an observation than an issue. In single input testing, the volume I get from the subwoofer with either the PC speakers or the iPhone plugged in directly is vastly louder than from the AV Reciever. The Receiver I know is an un-amplified signal. I assume that the PC Speakers are sending an amplified one, and I have no idea what the iPhone does. According everything I can find (and folks I consult), the subwoofer does have a built in amp. So is the difference due to the relative volumes of the inputs? (the AV Receiver, being more powerful, is set mid level or lover, vs the PC speakers/iMac's volume being pretty high.) Would getting a cheapish subwoofer/signal amp (like this) be worthwhile? 4) Power brick voltage difference As shown in the graphic, the Subwoofer is listed at 15 volts...do to reasons not worth going into, it's powerbrick is 14.5 volts. Is there benefit to getting one with the full 15 volts? Thanks for taking the time to read thru this and I appreciate any thoughts and opinions on this.

So the cabling in my existing speaker system (logitech Z-2300) for my computer is starting to die on me and I'm looking for a new set of speakers. I'm looking for some input on whether I would be better off finding a new 2.1 set or should I look into a 5.1 set or should I be looking into something more custom. I'm looking for something that sounds good for watching movies and playing single player games as I already have headphones for online games. If anyone could provide me with some insight or has any recommendations of speaker sets to look into, I would appreciate it!

I have a Microlab fc730 sound system for pc. It's a 5.1 surround setup. The amplifier has input & output port in the back for one 40 watt subwoofer, which is part of the setup. What I wanna know is: 1) Can I somehow add one or two more subwoofers to this setup by using RCA Y CABLE SPLITTER? 2) Do I have to use dedicated power source for extra subwoofers? The default 40 watt subwoofer runs by the amplifier itself. 3) Do I have to use another 40 watt subwoofer or can I use any size of subwoofer with dedicated power source?

In my truck, (yes, not home theatre, but this is the closest sub-forum) I use a Sound Storm EV2.1200 Evolution. This amplifier claims to output 1200 watts of pure power when bridged, however, there is a 25 amp fuse on it. I'm not an electrical engineer, but the fuse should blow at only 300 watts. 12v * 25A = 300w And I'm pretty sure 300w is considerably less than 1200w. So, how can it output 1200 watts?

Over the past few days I've asked a few questions about audio and finally picked up a pair of A5+. I'm loving them so far but I'd love to find a decent subwoofer that would work well with these, the AudioEngine S8 sub is a bit pricey for what it is so i'm looking for an alternative. Note: I am in Europe so the US brands are hard to get or have huge shipping costs. Thanks everyone.

I've got a Creative Inspire T6100 5.1 speaker system and the subwoofer started rattling at high settings. The cone rattles even if it's out of it's closure and I don't know what the problem may be. Could I replace the woofer with another one of similar specs? System Type 5.1 Satellites 5 RMS Power of Satellites (W) 4 x 8W 18 W Central Ohms 4 Decibel Level (dB) 80dB Subwoofer 26 W Satellite dimensions (W x D x H mm) 80 x 70 x 183 Central 170 x 105 x 82 Subwoofer dimensions (W x D x H mm) 182 x 253 x 286 Here's a video showing the way it rattles: If you need any informations beside these, please ask. Thank you!

Hi Guys, So I have these awesome Old School speakers just sitting on our store room so i tried to use them; 1. Altec Lansing ACS 33 (Speakers + Subwoofer) 2. Altec Lansing ACS 90 (Speakers only, with Subwoofer slot) Please see attached photo of simple sketch on how i connected the speakers to each other and connected to my PC. It is all working. Sound output is good. I'm not really knowledgeable when it comes to speakers, so I want to ask You guys, did I do anything wrong with those connections? i asked because i might have done something wrong that prevents me from getting the speakers' full potential or maybe i did something wrong that might damage my PC. Thanks in advanced. Cheers!

So I bought a bose companion 2 for my PC about 6 months back which have been great. A solid step up from a diddy Bluetooth speaker I had been using for ages. Decided I wanted to hear more bass from my music so I have been thinking about how/what to do about getting a subwoofer. I currently have one input of the companion 2s connected to the PC and the other from my echo dot. Would like to keep them both connected to the final setup. I can't figure any way of doing this so any recommendation would be great. I have a budget of about £100 can stretch a little but not that much more. Many thanks in advance. Edit: I am in the UK

Hello, I already have this 5.1 surround kit for a couple of time. My subwoofer is from Infinity Oreus Elan, and recently i put my stereo just a tiny bit louder than normally, and than the cracking sounds begun to appear (check audio file). Then i just turned the whole set off, en came back to it next day (today). I was listening to music again, and all the problems dissapeard. So i put the stereo a little bit louder again (not so loud the speakers get blown), and it happend again. I can just wait untill tommorow, but i really want to listen to it, because it's good! I already fixed it once myself, replacing an old switch with a new one, and i really don't want to take everything apart again. So when i am not listening to music nothing is going on, when i put music on the sound comes back untill i put the music down again. Also when i put my finger on the subwoofer output for speakers (there are no speakers connected to the subwoofer, but to the sound receiver) the sound also comes back. It doesn't come out of my 5 other speakers. So i am pretty clueless and want to know if maybe one of you guys can help me! Thanks! Cracking audio.aac

Hey all, Recently picked up this logitech speaker set, and its been decent so far, yet the bass response is muddy and muffled. I knew what I was getting into with this kind of system, but now I am wondering if it is possible for me to change the subwoofer driver to a better one to improve sound quality. I assume if i found a driver with the same ohms, power and size everything would work? I was thinking something like a dayton audio driver? Cheers, Ryan

Hello everyone, I am seeking help as the subwoofer port on my Sound Blaster Z sound card stopped working. A few days back I purchased a new subwoofer, SVS SB-1000. Previously I had some small Genius sub from 2.1 set. I have the sub paired with bookshelf speakers. It all connects to the sound card through the respective ports, so sub line out, front speakers line out and I also have my headphones connected via headphone jack. All these ports are 3.5mm jacks (I connected the jack to the SVS sub with RCA adaptor) and the all still work besides the subwoofer one. What probably went wrong: Everything played nicely for like two days. Until I tried hotswapping the two subs to have a feel for the immeadiate change in sound. Of course I wasn't literally hot swapping them. I turned them both off, turned the song off, swapped them, turned on the swapped sub and resumed music. I did this like three times and then suddenly no sound from the sub. This happened when I "hot swapped" from the old one to the new one. What I tried (to no avail): - looking if all settings are right and if all connectors are in the right holes - trying if the old sub still plays (it doesn't) - changing the 3.5mm jack cable to a different one - trying different power socket in the house (note that the power indicators are glowing on both subs) - restarting the computer - starting the computer without the sound card and then back with it What I want to try but don't know how or fear I might mess things up even more: - reinstalling the sound card driver - connecting the speakers to the sub port and the sub to the speakers port and see if the sub blows the speaker port as well (lol) - try to meassure the voltage in the ports with multimeter (I bought it today, never used one before) Interesting note to add: When I turn the pc off before the sub there is this loud and short bass POP. I think this is normal but the interesting part is that both subs STILL do this, even when the sub port is supposedly broken. So... yeah. I would be glad if someone knew how to help. Thank you.

So a few days ago I built my new PC, with an i9 9900K on a Gigabyte Aorus Master and ever since I've been troubled by not having bass when listening to music (either YouTube or Spotify). My front speakers are connected to the green jack and the subwoofer is connected to the orange jack (center/sub). On my old Z97 system (ALC1150), I could just turn on bass management in the Realtek software thing and it would work. However, I don't have that option on my new system! So far I tried setting the Windows audio setting to 5.1 (minus the rear speakers, I only have a 2.1 system) and when I "test" the speakers, the subwoofer responds! But no bass in Spotify or via browser or anything, really. The only thing utilizing the subwoofer so far has been CoD BO4, which I only just realized as of today. I hope someone can help me, because I don't know if it's a Windows thing (I did a clean install) or a driver related issue or else.

So I can currently buy a pair of KEF R100s for £370 brand new which seems like a steal so im wondering if they would be a worthwhile upgrade to my Dali Zensor 3 speakers I use on my desk at the moment, mostly for music but also for some movies, I have a Dali E-12F Subwoofer for the low end

Recently the receiver of my home cinema set died on me and is beyond repair. So that leaves me with the speakers, they still work perfectly fine and I'm happy with the sound that they produce. The home cinema set in question is the Philips HTS 7200 and for your convience here are the speaker specs summed up: It's a 2.1 system so firstly the subwoofer: 200W (@3 ohms of impendance) and it works passively. Speakers: 2x 120 W (@ 4 ohms of impendance) I now want to buy a new receiver so that I can still use the speakers. This leads me to the following: So I've been looking into some receivers and I've been blown away by the amounts of options and shitty advertising there is. Because the subwoofer is passive and the only receivers that actually support that T H I C C boii are way to expensive I've decided to just store the subwoofer away somewhere until I have the money and/or time to do something with it. Either way I found the Sabaj A3 to be a good possible solution. It has the features I need, I know the brand I've been happy with their products so far, decent price, 4 ohms of impendance and some other nice features like bluetooth connectivity with your phone. One problem though, it supports only up to 80 watts of RMS (@4 ohm) per speaker, while the speakers I'll be using are 120 watts (@4 ohm). I've read a few articles on this problem and other people claim it won't be much of a problem. So I'd like to know you guys' opinion on this. Already thanks in advance.

I'm looking for a subwoofer to accompany a soundbar. The bar is a left-center-right bar with 6" woofers. I'm looking for a sub below $200. Any suggestions? Thanks. Edit: Also looking for recommendations for a receiver. Currently considering the Yamaha RX-V385. Thoughts?

I need some help setting up my sub, I've got an 15 powered sub I use for parties at home and i've got two litle 8' powered speakers. I want to set up my sub so that it plays the low frequencies. About 100hz and below. I've got a sub output on my motherboard and the realtek software plays audio on it but any other app/music/video only plays sounds only on the two 8' and none on the sub. I've set it up on windows so that it's a 5.1 without the rear speakers and the sub is center & sub at the same time. If it's of any help i've got an h370 aorus g3 wifi.

Looking for a audio setup for my pc looking for a 5.1 or at least a 2.1 something with good bass and punch with a loud output

Hi friends, I found myself with an extra Polk audio wireless subwoofer for my Polk audio 6500BT sound bar. I’d love to be able to use it as part of a wired stereo system in the future. I’ve attached all the pictures of the board I pulled out of the enclosure in the hopes that someone will easily be able to tell me where the Bluetooth adapter is and where I can solder on an RCA connector to have audio provided by a wired device. My dad has worked on a built electronics for years, just not audio ones. So I’m confident in his ability to remove the component (if necessary) and solder in the new connectors, I just need to tell him what needs to go, and where to make the new connection. Would love some help and direction. In the pictures I’ve included the barcode of the sub with model number info. Let me know if I’ve missed providing any key information. Happy to do what I can to help you help me Thanks in advance Chris

I was wondering whether this (Subwoofer out --> receiver --> passive sub) would be possible. I'm on a budget so I can't afford buying an active sub to hook up to the soundbar, which only has subwoofer out, but I do have a receiver and passive sub that works on that receiver. I was thinking of buying a cable that either went from subwoofer out --> 3.5 mm, or subwoofer out --> stereo rca (and then a cable: stereo rca --> audio jack). I'm fine with a bit of distortion. The sub will only be meant is complimentary to the listening experience and not be centre stage, but I'm wondering if it'd work. If you need more specs, just ask.

Hi guys, I'm just starting to build a Hifi audio setup for my PC! I already got a decent AMP and Shelf Speakers and I really like the sound so far, the lows are lacking though! I plan on not spending more than 250, ~300€ max! ~200€ or less would be ideal. (I live in Germany) I looked into a Klipsch R-100SW, which is on sale for 200€ from time to time. Do you have any recommendations for me? Thanks in advance!

I'm looking for a good sub-woofer or speakers for my Yamaha RX V383 (https://www.richersounds.com/yamaha-rxv383-blk.html) to combine with my eltax jupiter 5.1 speakers(not the best but still good [enough] ). After my Onkyo TX NR414 died and i switched to the Yamaha i noticed the low end is not as deep and a bit lacking no matter how i setup the AV receiver and toy with the settings. Are there any good sub woofer or speakers (only front ones would be enough) that i could buy?

In the process of picking parts for my new car sound system replacing speakers, adding amp and subwoofer in 2014 VW Golf. Staying with stock radio and stock rear speakers. I need help in finding if all will work fine. Amp will run speakers in channel 1 and 2 while channel 3 and 4 will run subwoofer (bridge). From amp output speaker cables directly to radio harness and cut cable front right and left speakers. For input into amp theres rca inputs and speaker level input. Planning on using rca cutting one end off and branching to rear left speaker and rear right and another rca for front. going to channel 1,2,3 and 4.And other connections will run 12 gauge for power and ground and REM ect... (If I find connector for the Speaker Level Input I will use that instead for speakers.) Will I run into any problems or issues? Is the setup Im planning going to work? I got a million other questions but mind is about to explode. Could just have the pros do it but want to save money and satisfaction of doing it. speaker:alpine sps-610C 6.5" component speakers power range: 2-80 watts RMS (240 watts peak power) 4 ohms impedance (purchasing for $200AUD https://www.crutchfield.com/S-xdBtbJqw01M/p_500SPS610C/Alpine-SPS-610C.html AMP: alpine MRP-F300 4 channel 50 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (75 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms) 150 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode) purchasing for $130AUD https://www.crutchfield.com/S-yQbQcaMqAjj/p_500MRPF300/Alpine-MRP-F300.html Subwoofer: clarion sw10x 300watts RMS 4-Ohm. (not too sure about the sub it is very old model was running on apx2120 clarion amp before 120watts was fine and plenty of bass.Single channel not bridge.)

So a while back I had a great Sony soundbar. Unfortunately it bit the dust due to a common software brick and the price to repair it isn't worth it. It's entirely software related, so I really would like to utilize the speakers themselves in some way. To do so, I figured I'd convert the wireless subwoofer into something more versatile for a future home theater setup. It's fully enclosed and sealed off, but I had a quick question. Coming out of the enclosure are these 3 cables. The largest is a 2 wire (most likely power delivery) plug header, the smaller is a 3 wire/pin connector, and the last is a ground. I'm wondering if anyone can confirm what types of cables these are, I'm imagining they're proprietary, but I figured I'd go ahead and ask. Last resort I will probably bust the enclosure open to check the speaker's terminals, then build a new one. I would much rather prefer to keep the current enclosure if any wire splicing or adapters are available. Thanks for any info, I'm a pretty big noob when it comes to speakers. I've only really done car audio and a simple 5.1 setup at my parents.

Can you guys recommend some good desktop speakers around the $250 US price range? I am really a noob when it comes to choosing speakers since I mainly use headphones. It can be anything, like a soundbar with subwoofer, bookshelf speakers, those 'gaming' speakers, etc. My main priority is sound quality. Looks are secondary. Also, I am gonna use it with my PC, so I don't think surround sound is necessary?