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Showing results for tags 'sound'.
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I'm trying to get a Dell Inspiron n7010 to stop screeching. I know the issue is the mic because If i have it set to 20 and its open, it doesn't screech, but if i try to close it or turn the volume up the mic picks it up and starts a screeching playback loop. However, I can't find an option to disable the microphone. Any ideas other then manually disconnecting it? -
Why cant windows just integrate multiple device audio output feature ??? Its 2022 and still you cant output audio to multiple devices using inbuilt tools (Stereo mix is there but its due to realtek and doesnt work in every pc, you can use third party software but why not integrate it)
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Hello! So, back in 2019 I had some issues with my old PSU, so I bought a new one of the model: be quiet! Pure Power 11 600W CM. It's been working great, but lately I've started hearing this weird ticking/clicking noise from the computer. I went through all the fans (except the PSU), holding my finger against them to ensure that they were not the culprit. And when trying to localize the sound, I think it's most reasonable that the sound is coming from the PSU. So, here is a video of the sound (I also attached the video to this post to make sure that at least one mirror works) video-1647436132.mp4 So, the noise isn't constantly going on, it's like once every 20 seconds, and it goes on for about 5 seconds. To my untrained ear, it sounds like something is shaking/wobbling, but I'm not sure. What can I do? I've heard that you shouldn't really open PSUs unless you know what you're doing. All the best, Hugorm video-1647436132.mp4
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I've been experiencing this a lot and I think it is time that I ask for some help. So what happened recently is I turned on my computer and its on desktop but didn't do anything with it for a minute because I was using my phone and suddenly screen went BLACK with a sound of 'Device Disconnect' from windows 10. The sound is exactly like this: So after the first sound, there was a second of silence with a black monitor in front of me and then I heard the opposite of this sound which is the Reconnect Sound. The one you hear when you plug in a usb drive. The monitor lit up afterward. I checked the driver software and found out that some features were gone. The update checker and relive is the one I could remember, but this already happens whenever the driver does this kind of 'crash'. I checked the Performance Metrics and saw that my customized fan tune was reset to default. Again, this happens whenever the driver sort of crashes. Event viewer only shows cpumetricsoverlay crash but this already happens whenever I turn on my PC or whenever the driver turns on or resets itself. The cpumetricsoverlay crashing in event viewer was already a bug in these drivers. This problem happens in drivers: 21.9.1, 21.10.1, and 21.10.2 any help guys? This has been troubling me for quite a time now and to be honest, this is the cause of my anxiety. I am aware that my pc is showing signs of tear but I would like for it to work until I graduate from school and find a work to repair my PC or even buy a new one. -
tl:dr Please connect your XBOX Controller with the XBOX Wireless adapter to your PC, plug any 3.5mm jack device into it, and tell me if you audio in Halo infinite or Gears of War 5 (and possibly cyberpunk 2077) is "stuttering" or sounds "wrong" in any way. Because this issue persists for over 2 years now and no one is doing anything.... Long Version. I own a XBOX wireless adapter for my Windows 10 PC I mostly use it to connect my XBOX Controller to my PC but I did buy a Turtle beach stealth 700 gen 2 a couple of month ago that also uses the XBOX Wireless adapter to connect to my PC. I didn't have any problems with my Headset until Halo infinite released.... In that game I did notice my sound was "stuttering" immensly (btw this can also be heard when I recorded the sound!) and it was really distracting. Seeing my FPS rate beeing around 70-100 performance shouldn't have been the problem, and I was right. When I plugged my Wired headset (HyperX cloud 2) into my PC and my problems were gone. I started googeling for a fix and I found out that this bug seems to be first recorded around 2020 when Gears of War 5 released so this games seems to be affected as well. Anyways I found dozens of posts with either the exact same issue or a very simmilar one if you try to use spatialaudio/dolbyatmos or anything like this. I have also created some posts on the answere.microsoft.com forum myself. But no one seems to be interested in fixing this problem, the MS Forum didn't do anything besides telling me "well we can't do anything bout it", wich was to be expected since they are mostly volunteers if I understand correctly. But several users did claim to have contacted the MS Support directly and their answere was "well we might look into that have a nice day"... since the Driver for the XBOX Wireless adapter wasn't updated since 2017 they did not... I myself wasn't able to contact the MS support yet because, and I gonne be very honest here, they don't show me the option to start a chat with an employee and I do really not have the social skills neccessary to make myself clear enough over a phone call. I am honestly a bit mad at Microsoft. I have a "XBOX Wireless certified" headset with an "XBOX Wireless adapter" and I can not play "XBOX first party games" properly? what the hell? Also no one at Microsoft seems to care about this issue like at all... Now YOU, the Community comes into play. Before I start to make a giant fuzz about all of this I would like to try and gather some additional data. So everyone who owns an XBOX Wireless adapter for PC and either a Headset that you can connect to it OR an Headset that you can Connect to your XBOX controller (so anything with a 3.5mm headphone jack) wich you then can (wierlessly) connect to your PC via the XBOX Wireless adapter. I BEG every single of you to test out if you have audio issues in Halo infinite and or Gears of war 5 (or CP2077 but for me the stuttering there is very mild but still noticeable if you know what to listen for)and tell me the please. If you want any additional informations from me feel free to ask. -
My laptop made no sound after lightning struck my house and electricity. I've tried changing the driver or troubleshooting the driver but no sound comes out of my laptop. not only from my laptop speakers, the 3.5 jack on my laptop has no sound even though I've changed headphones to new ones. is there any solution or idea to solve it? did the hardware on my laptop get damaged after a lightning strike?
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tl:dr Please connect your XBOX Controller with the XBOX Wireless adapter to your PC, plug any 3.5mm jack device into it, and tell me if you audio in Halo infinite or Gears of War 5 (and possibly cyberpunk 2077) is "stuttering" or sounds "wrong" in any way. Because this issue persists for over 2 years now and no one is doing anything.... Long Version. I own a XBOX wireless adapter for my Windows 10 PC I mostly use it to connect my XBOX Controller to my PC but I did buy a Turtle beach stealth 700 gen 2 a couple of month ago that also uses the XBOX Wireless adapter to connect to my PC. I didn't have any problems with my Headset until Halo infinite released.... In that game I did notice my sound was "stuttering" immensly (btw this can also be heard when I recorded the sound!) and it was really distracting. Seeing my FPS rate beeing around 70-100 performance shouldn't have been the problem, and I was right. When I plugged my Wired headset (HyperX cloud 2) into my PC and my problems were gone. I started googeling for a fix and I found out that this bug seems to be first recorded around 2020 when Gears of War 5 released so this games seems to be affected as well. Anyways I found dozens of posts with either the exact same issue or a very simmilar one if you try to use spatialaudio/dolbyatmos or anything like this. I have also created some posts on the answere.microsoft.com forum myself. But no one seems to be interested in fixing this problem, the MS Forum didn't do anything besides telling me "well we can't do anything bout it", wich was to be expected since they are mostly volunteers if I understand correctly. But several users did claim to have contacted the MS Support directly and their answere was "well we might look into that have a nice day"... since the Driver for the XBOX Wireless adapter wasn't updated since 2017 they did not... I myself wasn't able to contact the MS support yet because, and I gonne be very honest here, they don't show me the option to start a chat with an employee and I do really not have the social skills neccessary to make myself clear enough over a phone call. I am honestly a bit mad at Microsoft. I have a "XBOX Wireless certified" headset with an "XBOX Wireless adapter" and I can not play "XBOX first party games" properly? what the hell? Also no one at Microsoft seems to care about this issue like at all... Now YOU, the Community comes into play. Before I start to make a giant fuzz about all of this I would like to try and gather some additional data. So everyone who owns an XBOX Wireless adapter for PC and either a Headset that you can connect to it OR an Headset that you can Connect to your XBOX controller (so anything with a 3.5mm headphone jack) wich you then can (wierlessly) connect to your PC via the XBOX Wireless adapter. I BEG every single of you to test out if you have audio issues in Halo infinite and or Gears of war 5 (or CP2077 but for me the stuttering there is very mild but still noticeable if you know what to listen for)and tell me the please. If you want any additional informations from me feel free to ask. I have "shied away" from posting the forum entrances on this topic since I wasn't sure where to put them without making this whole post unreadable.
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Front left speaker (Logitech z906) crackling/distorted sound. Troubleshooting steps performed: 1. Tried different devices (PC, macbook, mobile) and inputs. No change. 2. Swapped various speakers. All speakers are fine. Only front left ports have this issue. 3. Swapped working cable with front left. All cables are fine. No change. 4. Performed a reset for all settings. Device is out of warranty now. Please advise what can be done to fix this issue. Thanks. -
Hello there. __Introduction__ I've recently been setting up my home theater equipment in a new apartment, but I have been experiencing a few problems down the road. Most notably, loss of audio. Due to the handful of devices connected, there wasn't enough HDMI-in ports on my AV receiver. To get around this, I've invested in a HDMI switch, so I can take on more signals from various devices. Since my AV receiver handles the surround sound speakers, everything goes through that. __The Problem__ Temporarily, my consoles would send the signal to the AV receiver, which would then send the signal to the TV, so no problems there. However, to get more inputs, everything went from the consoles, through a HDMI switch, then to an AV receiver, then finally to the TV. But for some reason, this kills the audio signal entirely. None of the consoles detect an audio output anymore, so the speakers remain silent (both on the AV receiver and TV). If there's only 1 "middle man" in this chain (HDMI Switch or AV Receiver), then both audio and video works fine. But if both are added to the chain, the audio is lost entirely, and not even shown as an output on any of the consoles. __Alternatives__ I'm currently thinking of a workaround, where the consoles would send video to the TV directly, and audio would be sent to the AV receiver via TOSLINK for audio. Once I get the necessary cables, I'll be trying that out. __Components__ - Samsung UE32ES635U - LG HB965TZ - Delcato HDMI-7044 - PlayStation 3 Super Slim - Xbox ONE - Xbox 360 Original
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I was playing a game with my friends using my Logitech G432 headset. It doesn't have a mute button so to mute myself I have to pull the mic upwards. I did that whilst in call then a few weird sounds were coming out then next minute later the microphone stopped working. Discord still recognizes the mic and audio still works but problem is whenever I talk it doesn't output sound to others.
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Hello, i have heard a lot of drives in my life, but this sound is something new for me. HDD will start thumping when idle. It will continue the sound for few minutes. Its pretty random. Sound clip is attached below. Ignore the background noise, the HDD is absolutely silent, except of the thumpy sound, every 5 seconds or so. Is this Preventive Wear Leveling (PWL) "feature" i read about? There arent many sound samples online to listen to and my other HDDs are older. Thanks. hdd zvuk.mp3
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I’ve bought the beyerdynamic dynamic 770 pros and am wondering if my msi z390 motherboard can power the headphones enough or if I need an amp. I haven’t been able to find anything online so I’m here
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It started happening long ago but it got worse now and its beginning to bother me, when I'm playing games fans automatically goes up to about 60-70% and those sounds appear, If I manually set fans to like 50% or 75% that sound is gone. I've checked gpu 10 times nothing is touching the fans, removed it cleaned it and placed again, still no luck. You may say set fans manually to 75% well I could do but it gets pretty loud and I dont want that. Any suggestions? Link for sound https://files.fm/u/gajcrs9gx -
Specs: Gigabyte B450M-DS3H Ryzen 5 2600x 16GB DDR4 (2x 4GB Team Elite, 2x 4GB Kingston) Gigabyte RX 570 4GB Kingston A400 120GB SSD WD Blue 1TB HDD WD Blue 500GB HDD DeepCool Gammaxx GTE CPU cooler Corsair VS550 550W PSU This sound just started randomly coming from my PC yesterday and I wanted to know what it was. Sound recording attached of what it sounds like. Thanks. 20211212_104531.m4a
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I have an old SONY MHC-GNZ77D from 2006 i guess....It used to give phenomenal audio...enough bass to shake the house when V-GROOVE is enabled....We recently did not use the set for an year as we got a new TV which had good speakers and now while i tried to use it again a weird cracking sound (something like electric cracking noises and the classic cracks mixed) comes from the left speaker of the set during deep bass like "THE PLAN" from tenet...that kind of bass...it was able to handle much deeper bass before (the speakers become an air conditioner with the amount of bass) I connect the old stereo to my laptop via an AUX to Analog cable (the while red cables) I tried Changing the aux cable (a new cable) changing the device (used an ipad,a phone) changing the output (swapping the left and right speaker's wire at the back) clean the speaker wire socket with a microfibre cloth this is how the speaker output wire looks THE SPEAKER WIRES CANNOT BE CHANGED BY ME....IT IS FIXED INSIDE THE SPEAKER Disabling V-GROOVE to GROOVE seems to help with the crackling noise...but doing this reduces the bass of the audio Any help would be appreciated before I take it to the shop (the shop is about 10 miles away from my house and would take around 1.5 hours to reach there)
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Every time I hover over anything in a browser or video game I hear a very quiet static buzzing sound. In games that are GPU or CPU intensive the noise gets loud and almost unbearable. When the game is paused or I stop moving the mouse the buzz stops or gets quieter. I thought it may be a weird windows sound setting but it's all default. I have tried disabling audio input and output, using DDU and reinstalling drivers, fiddling around with all GPU and headphone setting, nothing works. Please help. I'm losing my marbles. Apparently people can hear static when I talk with the headset boom mic but I don't know if it's related. GPU: Sapphire Nitro Plus 6800 XT CPU: R7 3700x Motherboard: ASUS Prime B550M-A Headset: Sennheiser GSP 601 -
No matter what i try, i cant seem to remove my JBL Xtreme Audio from bluetooth devices, i have been able to remove my phone, my bose qc35 ||. Basically i cant get rid of my jbl xtreme from my bluetooth devices on my dell latitude e7440 (ive replaced the intel ac 7260 bluetooth with a DW1550 from broadcom. The bluetooth works, but i cant get my jbl xtreme speaker working, so i would like to completely remove it from the system, and then try to repair it. I have tried removing it from windows settings, device manager, controle panel. But where ever i try to do it i get remove failed. I tried googling the issue, no good. Im a bit lost for what i can do here. I finally was able to connect to my JBL Xtreme - I first connected to it with my phone, then i got a pop up messege from windows asking if i also wanted to connect to the speaker, and suddenly all working....
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Hi, can someone help me to make the sample rate and bit depth available so I can change it, really need it because Forza Horizon doesn't really like 16 bit and 48000 Hz, looked on YT, when I play the game, the sound is very distorted, sounds like a robot. have to change it to 24 bit so the sound will be fixed. The bad sound comes from the laptop speakers, with the headphones, everything sonds fine, can change it to 24 Bit. I do have the drivers up to date, the laptop has Dolby Audio pre-installed, using Windows 11 (when I had windows 10, the problem was still present), resetting windows (10) didn't help.
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My sound was working fine I had the Realtek drivers installed. I tried plugging a external dvd player and static started coming through my speakers. The dvd player was old and didn't work so I unplugged it. I put on my headphones and all I could hear was really loud static and I couldn't hear anything. I ran the troubleshooter and it uninstalled the Realtek drivers and the static was gone but I could not hear anything because it was not detecting the headphones. I tried reinstalling the Realtek drivers and there was still static and when I uninstalled them it still was not detecting the headphones. I am currently using the headphone jack in my monitor but it isn't ideal.
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So, I'm going to be getting my own apartment for the first time next week. Not in a complex, but a flat, the first floor of a 2-family home. I haven't met the other renter yet, so they may be chill, but I don't want to assume. I want a home theater setup. I love movies, and I play a ton of games and everything. I will be getting the Hisense U8G 65" for my tv. I have a PS5. I use Google devices and will be integrating a lot of smart home products. I am very tech savvy and have no issue spending time troubleshooting and getting into the nitty gritty to figure everything out exactly right, but this is my first real foray into home theater setups The biggest things I'm looking for are a true surround sound experience, not just a soundbar and a sub. Wireless is a huge plus. I like a good clean design. Also, being able to stream my phone pretty painlessly would be great. And I would like to go for Dolby Atmos, as it's the most immersive. Also, I'm looking for a system I'll be able to have for a long time, after I have my own place and no longer need to worry about waking the neighbors. I have 3 systems in mind from what research I've done so far, though I am in no means beholden to them if a better suggestion is presented. So, without further ado, here's what I've found so far and the basic pros and cons from what I can see: Enclave CineHome PRO 5.1 HD Wireless Home Theater Surround Sound System for TV - THX Certified - Amazon.com: Enclave CineHome PRO 5.1 HD Wireless Home Theater Surround Sound System for TV - THX, 24 Bit Dolby Digital, DTS, and WiSA Certified - CineHub Bundle Edition - Plug and Play Home Theater : Electronics - $1600 Pros - Wireless through WiSA; actually separate center, front left, and front right speakers; Bluetooth 5.0; very clean Cons - Only 5.1; no autocalibration; underpowered subwoofer; no Dolby Atmos Sonos Arc with Sub and 2 One SL - Amazon.com: Sonos Arc - The Premium Smart soundbar for TV, Movies, Music, Gaming, and More - Black with (Gen 3) - The Wireless subwoofer for deep bass - Black and SL - Microphone-Free Smart Speaker – Black x2 : Electronics - $1900 Pros - Wireless over Wifi; Google Assistant built in; also very clean; Sub has anti-vibrations and anti-distortion features; Dolby Atmos; Can purchase components piecemeal; autocalibration; Bluetooth Cons - Soundbar format for front 3 and ceiling channels; most expensive overall Nakamichi Shockwave Ultra 9.2.4 - Amazon.com: Nakamichi Shockwafe Ultra 9.2.4 Channel 1000W Dolby Atmos Soundbar with Dual 10" Subwoofers (Wireless) & 4 Rear Surround Effects Speakers. Enjoy Plug and Play Explosive Bass & High End Cinema Surround : Electronics - $1400 Pros - Semi-wireless (Nothing has to connect back to the soundbar); 4 satellite speakers and 2 subwoofers; Dolby Atmos; best value; Bluetooth; Night mode with subdued bass Cons - Unique design; still need wires to connect satellite speakers to subwoofers -
Hi, so I recently purchased a TV (a Samsung TU7020 to be exact) and while it does not have RAC out or AUX out, it does have Optical and eARC. Doing a bit of digging I found (through this website : https://www.rtings.com/tv/tests/inputs/5-1-surround-audio-passthrough ) that it should support passthrough of 5.1 sound through the optical and HDMI. The question is what do I need to put between my TV and my 5.1 system (which is a Logitech Z607 ) to make it work. Ideally I would like so that anything connected to the TV woud passthrough its audio through HDMI into the TV then into the speakers with the sound only comming out of them. Is this even possible ? If it is what are/is the best solution ? Thank you for any help you give me as I'm quite new to anything sound related that isn't a soundbar.
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A friend of mine who is preparing a small business store asked me for an advice, and I'm asking you, the community, for help.In short, He wants 8 speakers which are easy to use and permanently connected to power. He is planning to use them mostly for ambient soundscapes (nature and birds.) His budget is $800 US. Also, he wants the option to add more in the future. What do you you recommend. I'd really appreciate if you could help.
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Hello! My headset (Razer Kraken Kitty) randomly with no pattern to it just disconects and reconects after a few seconds. This just randomly started happening one day, no clue why. The wierd part is it starts happening and it does it for a weak or two then stops for a while. Its like if you were to just suddenly pull it out of the USB port (its still pluged in), windows then gives a "no audio device conected message", razer synaps does not show the headset and when it reconects (on its own) discord gives a "new aodio device conected, would you like to switch" and the wierdest part is the mic on the head seatr is muted(can tell by the red ring around it) I've tried contacting razer support and and they were of no help, tryed repluging it, switching USB ports, reinstaling drivers, updating, I have the headset set as defoult in windows and everything else disabled. When I tryed switching Discord from "defoult" to the headset the red banner appears at the top despit me being able to talk normaly with friends. I'm very sorry for my english and any miss spells. Thank you
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Hello there guys, I'm new here and my 1st question as a member is, if anyone could give me an idea on how to connect my speakers (genius sw-hf 5.1 4800) to my TV and still experience 5.1 sound and not stereo. PS: Sub has 3 output cables and all of them are 3.5mm, so I guess I need something that connects 3x3.5mm to (??) what
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Hello all. I have a problem with my gaming setup. The system makes a noise that sounds like it is coming from a buzzer when I start some specific tasks as I listed below that I could spot repeatedly and then it restarts itself : Windows updates, Razer Synapse updates, Driver updates over GeForce Experience, ASUS ArmoryCrate updates etc... As you can see it is about updates most of the time but it does happen at some random points too (I don't know if some background update causing it). When I check Windows Event Viewer, it is full of Kernel-Power faults. as you can see from the images. I also attached the video regarding the sound I have mentioned. I suspect it is all about PSU and the best way to test it is to change the PSU and re-test the updates that ends up with fault. However is there any other way to make sure what component is causing this? Appreciate for all the help in advance! Component List: CPU: Intel i5-10600K (Stock options, no OC) GPU: ASUS ROG RTX 2080 SUPER Advanced (Stock options, no OC) MOBO: ASUS Z490-H Gaming (BIOS Ver: 2103) RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) @3000MHz NVMe SSD: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 250GB HDD: Seagate ST1000DM010 1TB 7200RPM PSU: Corsair CV650 80+ Bronze Cooler: Corsair H100X AIO Windows 10 Build Info: Windows 10 Pro / Version 20H2 / Build 19042.985 / Windows Feature Experience Pack 120.2212.2020.0 IMG_5458.webm
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