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Hi! I have a problem with the sound. I have a 5.1 speakers and when Nahimic installed it got over and can't open real teak audio console to manage the speakers or 5.1, a terrible stereo sound is coming out from Nahimic anyone know how can i manage the speakers and use 5.1 like it was before. Thanks!

Would a the conference speaker Linus uses in his meetings be any good for my husband and I to use in the same room on discord for gaming? will our friends hear our game? We have tried various setups both having headsets or just one mic but we get issues. Looking for all-round solution without spending a fortune. This would probably be a good option for zoom calls like speaking to family on the big tv and this being our main mic. Any thoughts would be fab. Thanks (-:

Budget (including currency): N/A Country: Canada Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: N/A Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): N/A Hey Everyone! I know this is a bit of an odd question to ask here, but I'm wondering if it would be possible/practical to use Noctua anti-vibration fan mounts in my recording booth build. Specifically, I was wondering if it would be feasible to use them to suspend a bathroom fan inside the ventilation unit I'm designing for the booth. I'm using the bathroom ventilation fan as the main air-puller for air intake, in an enclosed unit on the roof of my booth. It'll intake from the top of the booth, and push air into some 4" corrugated tubing in a spiral around the inside of the vent box, before terminating in a vent on the interior of the booth, with a swivel mouth so I can direct the air either towards my face if I'm warm, or to the wall if I don't need direct cooling. The fan itself has a sound rating of 0.3 sones, so it's the quietest possible bathroom fan, and it's my hope that the extra lengthy vent tubing will get rid of any remaining fan sound that still ends up being made from the air that makes its way into the booth interior . The only thing I'm worried about, now, is sound being transmitted through the structure of my sound booth. I worry that if I mount the fan to the top of the booth with traditional hardware, any rattling will be transferred directly through the walls, into the interior of the booth, rendering all this effort useless. You can see in the pics I've provided that the fan (The big grey box inside the roof compartment) would attach to the top panel (The panel hovering above the whole thing, with the white intake cover). And the corrugated vent tubing would snake around inside the big open cavity of the space within. So would Noctua anti-vibration fan mounts be a good solution? or I could just loosely zip tie instead of using screws, so it's hanging loose from the top interior surface of the vent unit? Lol I know this isn't an acoustics or sound engineer forum, but any advice would be helpful!

Hi, For some time I have been experiencing automatic volume increase when turning on my PC. It happens rarely but I still want to identify whether it’s a faulty volume wheel on my Logiteh G915 TKL keyboard, G Hub or anything else. I think it usually happend when I do not use the PC for a day, but I may be wrong. I have switched to onboard memory of the keyboard two days ago and today it happened again. G Hub was running though so it also might have been it thus I have disabled autostart. Is there a way to check what was the source of the volume changes? Did anyone encounter this situation? I’m running Windows 11 fully up to date. Edit: I think it might also be doubling the old settings -> from 12 to 24 volume Edit2: If anyone is interested, I think it might have been an issue/quirk with the driver when the screen was put into sleep mode. Sometimes after this the sound stops working and the sound card is not detected at all over hdmi. Not sure though but seems to be the most likely cause.

Hey. I got a new HP desktop and I was trying to use some Tewell TV speakers (model T-232) and it ruined my sound drivers somehow so I am now installing a new audio driver, but the download speed on Opera GX can't get over 30 kilobytes and the network limiter from Opera isnt on, ive let Opera use all the system resources it can, it wont use over 1% of the CPU, and it wont use over .71 gb of ram. I have a i5-12400 12th gen and 8GB of ram. Please help.

So I just bought and installed a Arctic Liquid Freezer II 280 A-RGB AIO, but when I turn the PC on the smal PWM fan on the pump starts to make a weird noise. It is not too loud, but if you get closer you can definitely hear it (compared to the rest of the system). It sounds like the fan is hitting someting, and occasionally it makes a sort of harmonica sound. Before I installed the pump, I held it under the radiator so that any air would get to the top of the radiator. And when installing the pump, I had someone hold the radiator up in the air. So now I am wondering if it could be air in the pump, or just the fan making some noise. Do I need to take out the pump + radiator and hold it up so the air can travel to the radiator? Or do I need to install the radiator the other way around (upside down)? Or is it just fine and just some PWM fan noise? I will attach a video of the sound and a picture of the setup. Video link:

I have a soundcard installed in the3rd pci16 slots. I get a bad buzzing and distortion. Mobo has no smaller PCIe slots but it never mattered in the past and I don't think it matters now. My possible problems: 0 - The card is seated two inches above the PSU. I don't have a faraday thingy to test this theory. 1 - The card doesn't like PCIe 5 but it set to auto in bios 2 - The ARGB plugs directly under it next to the USB hubs. The USB hub can cause interference but I am not sure about the ARGB hub. Specs: Asus x670e-e WIFI Amd 7950x gskill trident? -It's 6000 speed with the mood lighting Amd Powercolor 6800xt red dragon Ryujin Soundblaster Z Other: Pimax demo 8* headset -This headset crushed my system in MSFS so it might have jarred something? I do not have a NIC card in case anyone asks. Any help or ideas would be nifty.

I'm using an external UA-4FX usb audo capture soundcard, and have the drivers installed. When I listen to my self on discord or in obs, the mic quality is perfect, but with shadowplay it's very poor. I check if it's set to the correct input, and it is. Some people suggested to change the quality settings in windows, but it's grayed out for me, like this: At the top it says "Analog input". This is the only active microphone, I disabled all the others.

I am running my Sennheiser 560S's off of the new Realtec ALC4080 Audio Codec in the MSI pro z-790A motherboard. So far it sounds fantastic and I have not had any issues with loudness. I am curious how much I would have to spend on an amp/dac to see a reasonable improvement from the motherboard sound. Would it even be worth the upgrade? Any help would be appreciated!!

Hey guys, I used to have a soundboard by the name "dcsb" a little while ago, and today I tried dowloading it again. Last time I installed it I watched a youtube tutorial, so this time I did that again but followed a different video. In this tutorial they used "voicemeter banana" instead of "vb audio cable". So I downloaded voicemeter banana and dcsb. I followed the whole tutorial and everything worked, but it was not really what I wanted. By the way, I still had vb audio cable installled since last time. Anyways, I decided to delete voicemeter banana, vb audio cable and dcsb. I uninstalled them in the Windows Programs and Features tab. After uninstalling them I restarted my computer to complete the process. When my computer started again I realized that my Realtek headset microphone was not working. I listened to it in both Discord and in the recording devices settings. Here are the methods I already tried that did not work: - Updating the realtek drivers (I had the most recent one) - Installed the newest realtek driver (even though I had the most recent one) - Reinstalled voicemeter, dcsb and vb audio cable and uninstalling them again. - Tried to recover my whole computer and the drivers (I couldnt) - Restaring the computer 1000000+ times - Set the realtek microphone to standard in the recording devices and listend to it afterwards. I am 100% sure that the real life microphone is not the problem. I am also very sure that dcsb did not cause this. I dont know if it helps in any way but I have a OMEN Laptop. Currently I'm using my really crappy built in laptop microphone. FEEL FREE TO ASK ANY QUESTIONS I will try to anwser as fast as possible. Thank you for reading this, I would really appreciate the slightest help.

My sound randomly stops for 2-3 seconds system wide, in games and watching YouTube, but when watching YouTube it stops the video after the sound lags plays the missed 2-3 seconds and then resumes the video. I have my audio going to my arctic 1 headphones wirelessly thru a USB dongle, the dongle is plugged in to the back of the mother board. All other playback devices are disabled. This problem started happening only just now after upgrading my cpu, mobo and ram. Went from i5 8400 to a ryzen 7 7700x on the old system I did not have this problem

I was in discord talking to a friend when all of a sudden, my mic just stopped picking up audio.... I checked other apps and it was the same I have a focusrite scarlet solo and a Shure SM57 and it's connect to my laptop through USB I've tried restarting, reconnecting cables, reinstalling drivers but it just doesn't seem to work Audio is being picked up by my mic when i press "Direct Monitoring" on the solo though I dont know if it's because of windows....

I'm looking for best sounding thin and light laptop (Windows). Are there any thin and light laptops comparable to or better than Apple Macbook Air, sound wise. I see very few reviews actually comparing the sound on the laptops. So I'm not sure which one to pick. I just need thin and light laptop which sound better than Apple Laptops or have similar quality. If there are multiple options, I'd like to compare display and battery life, but sound is priority. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.

I currently have the QC25's which are fantastic and I really enjoy them. But since i work in a quite office and at home the sound cancelling get annoying with its hiss of the canelling not canceling anything out really quickly, but the loss in audio is just as annoying. I would be looking for suggesions for an alternative to these headphones. Have been looking at the HD560s since they are more in my budget range. (the QC were an execptional purchace). Sound cancelling is not required. suggestions would be welceomed, budget top range probably around £160

Edit: video of a different GPU making a very similar noise: weird GPU noise - YouTube After running for a few minutes playing a demanding game (in this case, playing RDR2, but it happened with Death Stranding as well), the GPU will start making this sound. Most audible between 0:01 and 0:04, as well as 0:17, despite the cooler above running at 100%. There are no performance issues whatsoever; the game was running at 60 FPS (Vsync enabled). I've only ever seen a black artifact once while watching Netflix. Is it just a dust issue, or could it be something else entirely? Perhaps the PSU, which I've been told is horrible? System Configuration: Operating System: Windows 11 (clean installation) CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600, no overclock, PBO set to Auto CPU Cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports Duo GPU: GIGABYTE GTX 1660 Ti Mini ITX OC Motherboard: MSI B450 GAMING PLUS MAX with E7B86AMS.H50 (11/07/2019) BIOS RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4 3000 MHz (2x8), XMP enabled PSU: Corsair VS650 (2018) 650 W Monitor: BenQ GL2450 Case: Thermaltake V200 Tempered Glass (modded for proper airflow - front panel removed, mesh filter installed) Fans: Front intake: 3x120mm Arctic P12 PWM PST CO Rear exhaust: 1x120mm Thermaltake stock Power plan: Ryzen Balance

Guy's how to setup the hyperx solo cast obs and for recording videos tutorials I'm a beginner in sound things and the room I'm in have a Ac sound and laptop fans sound

Some time ago, when I didn't really know anything related to IEMs quality, tuning, etc. I bought myself Ibasso IT01. Later I understood that they are lacking in some areas, but they are usable. Now, after couple of years, I know a little bit more. Also, cable broke 3rd time since I started using this IEMs, and this time I don't have tools on hand to fix it. So I decided it's time to upgrade my whole setup, along with buying myself another pair of IEMs. Now I know at least enougth to navigate in this space and avoid complete garbage. I like Harman target, and used Wavelet autoEQ to make my IT01 sound like Harman. So I bought Truthear ZERO, because it was advertised to already be compliant with Harman target, so I wouldnt be needing to use any EQ anymore. And also, because I'm in a Crinacle cult. Picked them up yesterday. All my life I have listened to music from my phone.And I always thought that phone has enough power to drive any IEM, but with this new ones it seems like only my laptop can provide them with enough juice to get sufficient amount of volume. I tried them on an iPad - similar story. It's not like I'm listening my music on a dangerous amounts of volume. Usually I was adjusting it on my phone from song to song, depending on a record quality (like, when using Spotify I would make volume slightly higher then liscening to FLAC record from sdcard). I also never used preamp, my old Ibasso IEM had enough lowndes at a top volume settings that it will be painful to listen. So, is there some problem with my new IEMs, with my phone or with me? Or this is pretty much normal stuff? Asking because I also bought BTR5 and it would suck to discover that it also can't drive those new IEM's.

I have been noticing an issue lately where my sound (usually just Spotify) becomes distorted/garbled for about a second, sometimes with a "freeze" in mouse movements. It happens every couple of days and seems to happen when working from home, which is just a remote session so there is very little load on my system. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing this?

I have a 2 year old machine built by iBuypower and has been great. However recently been getting these high pitched and low tones when the computer is on and usually watching a video. I have updated the graphics driver using DDU Done a clean install of Windows 10 Even took another iBuypower which is only a few months old and it was doing the same thing. Nothing is showing in the event viewer or the Windows reliability monitor. Trying a other speakers as we speak. Wondering if the speakers are failing. The following link is a video of the sound that is happening. Beeping Tones Video Thanks

so I have been gifted the amazing opportunity to make a game room/office. I want to have consoles be on one side of the room and my PC be on the other, however I want the to be able to use the same headset for both, is it possible to centralize the sound into a single output? another related question, is it possible to then have a switch or button to toggle speaker vs headphones? i dont really care about wires because I jave many ways to hide them.

I have been using steelseries sonar for about a month now and its been working fantastic since then but now I want to copy its equalizer settings to other apps like Dolby access and Voicemeeter which will do the same work without needing much resources. First picture is from SS sonar and I wanna transfer those settings to the second picture i.e. dolby access

Hello Everyone, i recently upgraded my Windows Home Server from 2012 R2 to 2016 because i got a Deal on a Licence. Everything is working great, other than the fact that my Server has no Sound locally or via RDP. The Audio Settings in the RDP File are Correct. Granted its not Server-hardware but it did work in 2012 R2. I installed the newest Drivers from Lenovo and also some Older Drivers but Remote Audio is always silent. The Services "Windows-Audio" and "Windows-Audio Endpoint Builder" are both running and Set to Automatic. Is there a way i can get Audio working again, maybe even with a new Soundcard ? Any Tips, Ideas or Solutions are welcome. If you have Questions or need more Information id be very happy to assist

Hello, i really need help with this problem. I have a laptop with an i7 CPU, a Geforce RTX 2070 Max-Q GPU and a 144Hz monitor. OS: { Windows 10 Pro | Version 21H2 | Installed on 5/‎2/‎2022 | OS build 19044.1288 } Laptop Model: HP Omen 15-dc1xxx It came without an operating system so i had to install Windows 10 from scratch. I've been encountering the following problem when playing specific games like Overwatch, Hearthstone, Tropico 4, Dragon age 1 and 2, Bugsnax, Cities:Skylines, Sims 4, Sea of Thieves and for some reason whenever i use VLC player(its instant if i use x2 speed on VLC). Whenever i try to play them it would work for 30 minutes at most and then my entire screen would go black, the sound would still work for a few minutes, and my cursor wouldn't show up. I'm forced to hard reset my laptop. (The black screen wouldn't go away even after 4 hours). The strange thing is I haven't had this problem on more demanding games like Assassin's Creed Valhalla, Red Dead Redemption 2, Ghostwire Tokyo, Cyberpunk 2077. It only shows up when playing those specific games listed above and using VLC. The other times it works like a charm. I haven't had any other problem with it except this one. I've tried connecting my laptop to another monitor to see if it's a hardware problem, turns out the second monitor did the same thing at the same time as the first one, which leads me to believe its a software thing. So far I've tried(off the top of my head): Reinstalling windows 10 from scratch (again) Updating every single driver from my pc and updating windows 10 Changing the Physx processor used to the RTX 2070 Playing the games in fullscreen, windowed mode, changing the resolution, changing the frame rate, changing the graphics settings overall including Vsync. Disabling VT-D via Bios (it was off by default) Enabling G-Sync for fullscreen AND windowed mode Lowering my voltage (It never heated up while playing those games) Uninstalling the Nvidia drivers and then rolling back to a previous version(442.74) Installing all the drivers from the laptop manufacturer's website Starting the games with Geforce experience Unplugging my HDMI Running the games in administrator mode, compatibility mode Disabling every single overlay including the Discord and the Steam one Going into event viewer to see what might be causing the problem (i couldn't figure it out, there doesn't seem to show any problem before i hard resetted my pc, looking at the timestamps) I've seen some other people relating this black screen problem to a faulty Xbox controller, however I don't have an Xbox controller or any controller whatsoever connected to my laptop. I've been searching the internet for months now for a solution to this problem and it seems every forum thread i find is left unanswered. Please help me out, I'm not a tech savy person and I know it seems like a small problem but I'd really like to play some of these games with my friends and use this laptop to the fullest of its capabilities.

Hello everyone, i want to buy a good gaming headset, i narrowed it down to Razer blackshark V2 and Corsair HS 80, I got all Corsair gaming PC though)) i just think, blackshark is wired only, if i buy HS 80, i can use it wired when i want to, or when battery dies, also i can use it wireless, i know that battery life is not that great in Corsair, but still. Please suggest something Blackshark is 68€ in french amazon Corsair HS 80 is 99€ in french amazon I also have WH1000 XM3 can u use that? it's great for music, okay with PS4 but IDK if it's enough for FPS games. If there are better models, please let me know.

So, i have a really wierd problem. My phone worked like a charm until now, because it hardly a year old device. One day last week, i just woke up to the phone vibrating, because sounds stopped working, and then other things followed. Music just skips with "cant play this song", System sounds dont work at all, as for other types of sounds. What i think it isnt are the speakers, because at least headphones would work, but they dont. Voice recorder wont do anything, as well as screen recorder. I tried restarting the phone, turning volume low/high, do not disturb, silent mode, bluetooth. None of it did anything. I am really desperate and dont know how to fix it. When i look on the internet, i cant find anything similiar to my problem.