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Hello, I have a weird problem with my new PC. PC is working normal when it turns on, but sometimes when I disconnect it from the power cord and plug it back again, there's only a blue light on the mobo and PC don't react to power button. However, unplugging the hdmi cable from the GPU and plugging it back in fixes the problem. I use hdmi-vga adapter for my old monitor (my monitor also behave weird, it will randomly stop working (no power at all) until I plug it into another power cord). There's no information about this blue light in MSI manual. Any ideas? Thanks in advance. Specs: Mobo: MSI Mortar b150m CPU: i5-6500 Cooler: SilentiumPC Spartan Pro 3 GPU: Gainward GTX 1070 Dual Ram: HyperX DDR4 8GB Case: SilentiumPC Regnum RG1 PSU: Corsair CX550m
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The reason I am posting it is because of very bad performance in opening simple apps. I have seen a 5-year old HDD PC with a worse specs perform better in that regard. Both my GPU and HDD are performing way below expectations. 1. Battlefield 1: The most I am worried about is it's performance in game has declined dramatically. Where I used to play Battlefield 1 with 1080p lowest settings with above 60fps and no stutters, now even with half the resolution scale and console commands to improve performance I am hovering at around 40fps which would had been playable but there are stutters always in the middle. I just can't play this game at all now. 2. Counter Strike: Earlier was never worried about the performance of the game because it always delivered. Never wanted to look at what fps I was running at because it was not needed. After a year however, it barely manages 70-80fps and drops below 40fps in between. It's the same stutter thing. 3. Battlefield Bad Company 2: A relatively light game for this laptop. Where I used to get above 100fps, now it struggles to maintain 60 and drops and freezes in game. What I have tried: 1) Refreshing the PC. 2) Deleting all PC files and then downloading and playing the game again. 3) Using Windows Debloat tool to remove all Windows Crap. 4) Stopping Nvidia Telemetry and all Nvidia extra crap, just keeping the basic ones. 5) Shortstroking. (However as mentioned below, I didn't see sweet spot, the results were just wierd): Was this test supposed to be run from another HDD with this HDD completely disabled and not in use? These results are from Windows installed in the drive and 621GB of the 930GB still free. Do these results look normal to you? 6) CPU seems to be throttled at 88% as shown by user benchmark. I tried using the trottling app and the GPU tuner for Nvidia to sort of overclock and remove this issue but the pc keeps throttling in every test I run. 7) Clearing temp, %temp% and prefetch regularly. ? Running Disk Defragment regularly. 9) Propping up the PC about 1.5 inches. This improved the performance initially but now it's the same. 10) Trying different Nvidia driver versions. Important things I noticed: 1) Constant disk usage which spikes in between and even the CPU usage. I am also attaching a normal use scenario of the pc: 2. I live in Delhi, the temperature here crosses 45 degrees now and maybe it was just the cold atmosphere back when I bought it in August that it just performed better but the result shouldn't be so pronounced. 3. Initially, the laptop used to shut down while moving it from bed to table. 4. Since I got Windows pre-installed I don't want to format the PC completely but if it comes to it, I might do it. 5. It's the only appliance plugged into the board and sometimes I charge my other peripherials from the PC like a small watch, a 2W speakers which are powered. 6. Everytime I completely format the PC, the gaming performance does improve but only for a while, after a bit it's all the same. I have also attached a CPU-Z output for the same. My userbenchmark result with Intel HD. (For some reason the HDD is shown as WD WD10SPZX-00HKTT0 1TB there) My userbenchmark result with Nvidia MX150. Also attached Nvidia Settings. AcerAspire615-51G_CPUZ_Report
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How easy is it to repair a motherboard short?
nayas posted a topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
My laptops motherboard has a short on it somewhere, before i waste time visiting HP support center, i want to know if it is easy to fix problem? My motherboard has Amd fs1r2 socket and comes with on board radeon descrete graphics. Laptop model HP pavalion G6 2201 ax -
PSU Shorted, Possibly more Shorted PSU, possibly more Made a huge fuck up. Of all things PC related I know, I had no idea that Modular PSU cables are to only use cables from their manufacturer, which is where I made a mistake. As of now, I connected a “universal” third party PSU-SATA connector to power my Corsair command fan hub, and Corsair case RGB lighting. When turning the pc on, instantly heard a shorting noise come from the PSU and a smell of smoke. My questions is where to go from here to trouble shoot components. I have already bought another PSU, but was told that if I directly connect this up and try to boot I could end up shorting the new PSU if one of my other components are shorted. So, I don’t know where to go from here as I have a friends PC I could start in steering my GPU, RAM, HDD, And SSD in. But if one of those pieces are “fucked” could it possibly short components on his PC? and how would I check the motherboard without connecting it to the PSU “if” the motherboard may be shorted, and hence end up shorting the new PSU? Very confused on where to go from here, would highly appreciate some help. Here are the components UserBenchmarks: Game 98%, Desk 90%, Work 81% CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X - 88.9% GPU: Nvidia GTX 1080 - 102.2% SSD: Apotop S3C 512GB - 96.8% HDD: WD Blue 1TB (2012) - 104.1% RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO DDR4 3200 C16 2x16GB - 92.5% MBD: Asus ROG STRIX B450-F GAMING PSU: CORSAIR RM750
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I built a PC in South Korea, in October 2017. This is a PCPartPicker link to all the specifications. I built it successfully and was able to play it from 2017 until late 2019, when me and my family had to move away to India. I should mention that South Korea uses 110 volts AC, and India uses 220. So when I plugged the PC in directly, the lights flickered on and it worked for two seconds, then pop! Everything shut off. The PC had killed the power to the whole house! We had to call an electrician to reset the power, and then we pretended like it had never happened. We bought a new power cord to replace the old one, and yesterday, attempted to turn it back on. We put the new power cord in through a surge protector and nothing happened - the PC didn't turn on. I believe the power supply was fried (even though it was rated from 100-240 V AC). Should I do a paperclip test or just pay to replace it? For info, my power supply is a SeaSonic G 550 W, link here: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/DPCwrH/seasonic-power-supply-ssr550rm. Paperclip test or declare it DOA and get a new one? It wouldn't be the hardest thing in the world, but it would just be annoying.
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Hey, i would like to know what would be the best way to do a Shunt resistor mod on my 980 ti hybrid(With Liquid metal on the die)? i know that doing it using liquid metal just giving a count down for WHEN the GPU is going to die so i would like to avoid that, i have heard people saying that it might be possible to just ad an other shunt resistor on top of the first one or just short whe shunt resistor with something else than liquid metal but i can't really find anywhere to get more info on How to do it... so i am asking it to you: What would be the Best way to power mod my 980 ti for an extended period of time(between 2-3 years)????
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Hi guys so basically my pc that I just built won't turn on. When I press the power button the motherboard flashes red, one of the case fans slightly moves and the gpu flashes blue but then it just powers off completely. Any help? I attached a picture and I know my cables are a mess I just wanted to see that it worked before I managed them
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Hi, i have laptop acer aspire E5-476G, i bought this usb hub with a dc power adapter. I works find at first but then when i insert the dc power, my laptop turn off on its own. When i try to turn back on, it just shows a black screen but all my usb port work just fine (i charge my phone lol), theres also led light showing that my laptop is turn on and my fan is running too. Anyone know what is happening here? How to fix this problem?
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Hi all. I purchased a used gaming computer for pretty cheap. Inside there was an Asrock Z68 Pro 3 board with an i5 2500k, 8GB of Corsair 1600MHz RAM, an EVGA GTX 780 and a 680W Psu. The computer ran fine when i tested it before I bought it. When I brought it homr it fired up right away without any problems aswell. Since it had no HDD or SSD I couldnt get into an OS, which is fine by me because I checked everything out in the BIOS. Now I took it apart to clean it up and saw a burnt chip above the PCI-E 16x slot. Im not sure exactly what its used for but I don't believe its for anything important, since the board works perfectly. I haven't tested it in anything heavier than just browsing around and I am afraid to do so because of this. I'm scared about it shorting out or something like that when I try to run a heavier task like a game. If any of you know what that chip actually does I would appreciate it! Snapchat-1416727005.mp4 Snapchat-1416727005.mp4
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Hi! I plan on using fans that dont require my 3 pin fan header, but because I have a stupid OEM board it spits out an error because the fan isnt connected. Is there a way to short or jump the connector so it thinks theres a fan. it'll boot but I have to press F1 and I'm lazy.
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Hey, I often test things with my bench power supply, but yesterday, as I tested some sparks with a coil I shorted something and the fuze didn't blow. Now I have a supply which is locked to 30 Volts but can deliver the standard 3 amps. My question is, if you could tell me the parts that could be broken (maybe to fix). It's not digital, it is analog. Thanks Paul
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So, the problem is a quite interesting one. The thing is, a week ago, something happened to my computer out of nowhere. It was not turning on (the day before it worked just fine). Symptoms: when I press the power button, fans spin for like 1-2 secs, turn off, and then the same repeats. Kinda like a bootloop, but there is no post, no beeps, nothing. Okay I thought, lets diagnose this. Tried: unplugging ram sticks, booting without ram, with one ram stick, without gpu, without hard drives, still nothing, all the same. What came to my mind is that either psu or my motherboard were bust. Brought my mobo with cpu, ram and gpu to a friend, hooked up to his psu, motherboard booted up to uefi without a problem. Happy to have recognized the problem, I ordered a new psu Corsair CX550. And yesterday, I hooked up that new psu to my system, booted it, everything worked perfectly, I was so relieved having solved the problem. But now the worst part: I tried to boot the pc after night, and the symptoms are the same. It is not booting. Just like before. What I will do now is take my psu to a friend and try to boot his system with my new psu. If his system won't boot, I will know that the psu is fried. I will get it to warranty and if I get a new one I don't really want to hook it up my system again. Now my question would be, can a faulty mobo fry the psu? Maybe anyone have ever gotten anything same? PC specs: mobo: Asrock H87-M ram: 2x8 GB Crucial Ballistix gpu: Gigabyte GTX660 2GB OC psu: was (corsair cx600, worked fine for 5 years), now (corsair cx550) cpu: Intel i5-4570 SSD: Crucial MX250 HDD: Seagate 7200rpm 1TB
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My friend told me his computer wouldn't start and that he saw flashes coming from inside the case, when i had a look trying to boot caused the motherboard to short out and flash bright blue from about 5 different places. What are the chances that other components are screwed? (Components and video coming later) Cheers, Karl.
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I had a little fiasco with an RGB fan controller (HDD/SSD power connection for its power), and it shorted when i connected an LED strip to it. Now every time i restart my computer it tells me to "connect boot drive or BLAH BLAH BLAH". BUUUUT if i change the SATA cable it doesn't do that.. until i restart my system again. Now the question is, what is making it do this? Did the short in the RGB controller mess something else up down the chain of connectors? Or was it something else when i frantically shut off my computer while the controller was shorting? side note: I heard an audible crackle while the LED strip went haywire. Upon further inspection on the RGB controller, one of the.. ummm.. transistors? is what shorted and is swollen and the solder is burnt. (little black rectangular box with one solder point on one side, and two on the opposite side.)
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Hello, My PC has been working fine for months. Today I did something that was probably dumb. A coworker had two old hdds that she wanted to take the pictures off of from a dead relative. The problem was they were IDE ATA drives. So I got a converter on newegg, unplugged the sata power and data from my extra data drive and plugged it into the adapter with the old hdd outside of the case. When I hit the power button there was instantly a crack and a little spark and flame appeared on the hdd, I cut power to the computer right away. Honestly don't know if the hard drive was already dead, or if the adapter was just not something to trust. Then after that, I unplugged the adapter, plugged my old hard drive back in, didn't change anything else. When I went to turn my computer back on, the lights on my AIO (Corsair H100i) were flashing randomly in a way I haven't seen before. I let it run for a bit but the PC didn't seem to ever post. I tried to shut it down with the power button but that didn't seem to do anything, even holding it down for 10 seconds. So I switched the power button on the psu. Now when I boot the computer, all the rgb on my motherboard, my ram and my graphics cards startup. The case fans and the fans on the AIO start up. But the lights on the pump of the AIO and the lights on the case fans and and AIO fans don't light up. The computer then never finishes POST. The fans all just keep spinning indefinitely. I never see anything on the monitor, so I can't even get to the bios. Also the rgb on my keyboard and other peripherals doesn't lightup, which normally the keyboard lights up right away even if the others don't. So far I have unplugged and reseated every power cable I can think of. I have reset the cmos by using the jumper for about 5 minutes and then also by taking the battery out for About 10 minutes. Also I have looked over the motherboard and couldn't see any obvious signs of a short. But it is a black pcb and I was just using my phone's flashlight so I could have missed something. Tomorrow I am going to try taking out the cpu and reseating it. I am also going to borrow an old monitor with a VGA port, just in case for some reason my problem is I can't see bios from display port. My first thought is that the psu might have a short from the hdd, but everything on the motherboard seems to be getting power. My second guess is maybe the motherboard also got shorted, but the lights still work and I get fan spin. That leaves me thinking my CPU was damaged. If anyone has any experience with this I would love to hear about it. I have heard of hard drives catching on fire before, I just wasn't expecting it to happen, and I really wasn't expecting it to kill my pc. I have; a ryzen 3800x asrock b450m steel legion motherboard A corsair 550m psu 2 sticks of gskill trident z ram A corsair H100i platinum AIO A MSI Duke GTX 1080 An Intel m.2 SSD A samsung 960evo ssd A WD blue 1Tb hdd
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Yesterday I started my very first self built computer. Initially with great success. I tested it all outside the case, and it worked fine. I mounted everything in the case, and there is no boot. Took everything back out, tried again, to see if I broke something in the process. After a long time of reseating, and trying different PSUs, it booted outside the case again. Put it back in, to no avail. When I press the power button, the fans clearly get power for a split second, before being shut off again. I did put it in the case once, without the PSU mounted, just had it sat on the front, and it worked. But when the PSU is in the basement, it wont boot. My specs are: Ryzen 5 1600 Processor ASRock AB350M-HDV Motherboard R9 380 STRIX 2x8GB Patriot Viper DDR4 3000MHz VS550 / CX750M PSU 2 x 1TB Seagate Hard drives 1 x 240GB Crucial BX200 SSD Cooler Master Masterbox Lite 5 RGB I have tried: Clearing CMOS, multiple times Reseating GPU, multiple times Reseating RAM, multiple times 2 Different PSUs Reseating 4pin ATX CPU Power and 24pin Motherboard power, multiple times I believe that My PC is shorting out, but, I can't make sense of where, considering it will boot out of the case, and even boot in the case, just never when the PSU is mounted in the PSU basement. I cant see the motherboard making contact with the case anywhere, and there are no unnecessary standoffs as far as I can see.
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How long is the cord for the blue snowball?
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Hi! i made a shot film! I tried to make it funny and serious at the same time (more for the funny vibe though) I would love to hear what you guys think and get some feedback! here it is: <link removed> Thanks!
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Yesterday i was using PC and my parents turned it off using the switch on the PSU, and then after my PC case had a dent on the panel behind the Motherboard, since then ive had only a continuous blue LED light up when i turn on the PSU no case fans or anything, i then bought a new PSU and im having the same problem, any suggestions on what could have happened It didnt look like the metal from case actually touched the Motherboard itself but was touching another metal panel on the case
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I have a mining rig running in a Rosewill 4U case with 7x GTX 970's (room for 8 cards total), I have an 850w PSU, and a 1000w PSU. I am using an Add2PSU relay to turn the 1000w PSU on. I am powering all of the PCIe risers with the 1000w, and I split up PCIe power between the two PSU's. I built this rig a few months back with 3 GTX 970's, and 1 PSU, and I recently added the rest. I spent 32 hours straight fighting with drivers trying to get the machine to work. I got fed up, bought an SSD, and reinstalled Windows. I got all 6 cards working in nicehash, and all was good. I went to put the lid back on the case and I immediately could smell something cooking. I looked inside the case, and I could see one of my GPU's working on starting on fire. I shut the PSU off, and the second I did, it went out. Obviously something is being shorted when I try to put the lid on. But I cannot find a cause. I have inspected all the wiring that can come in contact with the lid or case, and I see no problems with any insulation. I cant find any wires being pinched, or anything. At this point, I just need advice on where to go from here. Currently I have a $2000 fire hazard...
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Hey Guys, maybe it sound a bit wired but i asked myself : " Can the smoke of an shisha or fog gernaly short a system?" Is that even possible? I don't know how intense fog can get or howmany water is needed to short a system. Someone can tell me?
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Hello. My desk has limited desk space causing little room for my mouse when playing games. I need a keyboard with normal sized keys yet smaller. Looking for one without a number pad yet I can't find any. If they don't have a number pad it gets labeled as a mini/micro keyboard where all the keys are shoved together, which looks uncomfortable and congested. This is the keyboard I've been using for around five years. https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Enhanced-Black-Keyboard-SK-8115/dp/B00496FELQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1514247015&sr=1-3&refinements=p_4%3ADell Outstanding keyboard, can't speak higher about it. It has withstand so many spills and years of mashing. Looking for something like this but x that number pad. I'm open to any recommendations. I'd like to keep it under $30 and wired. Thanks.
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Fellow builders, I tried to move my PC from one case to another today as a means of a visual upgrade. Once complete I tried booting the PC but allas, nothing! No fans, no bleeps, no POST...just dead silence. Note that the system was working in the old case just fine before. I started unplugging some things, replugging stuff, double and triple checked every cable...nothing. I then found the sticky in this forum that lets you "short" the PSU to see if the PSU starts and the fan starts (by wiring the green and a black cable with a paperclip). It does work when I do this and the fan speeds up. So does this automatically mean the mobo is at fault? Or are there other tests I can do to maybe rule out some more things? Please note I do not have any spare parts lying around to swap around for testing sadly. Any help is greatly appreciated! My rig: Intel i5-6400 Kingston Hyper Fury X 8GB RAM (single stick) DDR4 MSI Z170I Gaming PRO AC MSI GeForce GTX 960 4GB Corsair CS550M PSU Crucial BX100 120GB SSD
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Buy Moto Z Force on Amazon: http://geni.us/KTkp Buy Moto Mods on Amazon: http://geni.us/GXYNyec Well... this is definitely something a little different than what you're used to seeing from us. Let us know - what did you think of our first "LTT Short" ?
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hey so today I built my first computer, I had some trouble the computer would post, but when I put in the last led of the last fan, it wouldn't post. So i tried to move it to different pins, thought oh the USB pin shouldn't be the end of the world. sparks flew... think my mother board is fried or can it be saved?
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