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So, I'm having a difficult time figuring out how to maneuver around Brave's "element blocking" abilities. Right clicking and blocking an element is easy. Going to the manual list and manipulating the text based filter script is easy. The issue is that this seems like too clunky an approach and I'd appreciate to know if there is a better way to more visually start selecting element to return and leave again. Is there some check box method or anything that would allow me to rapidly iterate on blocking and returning elements without having to necessarily manually refresh again?
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So, I've got a build coming up soon. It's going to be an expensive one, and I'm just doing some shopping and it got me to thinking. For those of you who build regularly or frequently, how do you select your components? Particularly things like the motherboard. Particularly in regards to quality. What methodology do you use? This question is more about "ensuring you don't get DOA parts, or parts that burn out or break in 3-6 months.", and less about specifications or overall usage requirements.
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So I thought about this idea and I want to know if there is an app for it (idealy on iOS) that, in a very similar way to StumbleUpon, just randomly goes through the articles on the Wikipedia:Unusual Articles. Alternativly is there a way you can set up another app, e.g. FlipBoard/Stumble Upon, that would do this operation? Cheers Xvantok
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I posted a version of this list on another page on here but i figured this was actually the best location so here is the latest version. A friend of mine has asked me to upgrade is pc (bassically a whole new build). I have come up with this list of parts and was hoping that you guys could give it a once over to check that I haven't messed anything up. I built his previous rig for him 10 years ago (wow I know), and he want's this one to have a similar lifespan if possible. I have told him that there are no long term guarantee's in the pc world but we will try. The basic parts missing from the list, case (Tsunami Dream), hard drives (4 Sata drives), dvd drive (sata, lol I know but he still uses it) and peripherals will all be used from his old Intel Q6600 build. He uses a 4K led 50+ inch TV in his lounge as a monitor and doesn't game on the system at all so the graphics card is simply to output to the TV as Ryzen doesn't have integrated graphics. I have suggested he only uses 1080p mode as to invest in a 4K capable graphics card when he doesn't game seams like a waste. He already has 4K Netflix's on his TV and has a native 4K UHD player for films. His gaming needs are met by his xbox...........(I've tried to convince him but no dice). He also needs to have 6 Sata ports. Anyway enough rambling here are the parts. AMD Ryzen 5 1600 (using stock cooler) Gigabyte AX370-GAMING K3 Corsair CMK8GX4M2B3200C16 8gb kit (2x4gb) SanDisk SSD PLUS 120 GB Asus NVIDIA Gt 710 2 GB Passive Cooling Pci-E Graphics Card Corsair CP-9020077-UK CS650M Windows 10 Home 32 bit/64 bit English International [USB Flash Drive] £625.88 all parts on amazon UK. Thanks again for any help/advice that you are willing to give. I should have mentioned his primary uses for his system are web browsing, email, music playback and organisation with some video transcoding and his total budget is £600 ish. I know I could advise him to get Ryzen 3 to save some money on the processor in order to put some more towards a graphics card excwpt he has been happy using Intel inbuilt graphics on the Q6600 and he really will only be using the desktop 90% of the time and he wants an upgrade from 4 cores for "future proofing".
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Hi forums! So my computer has been running fine ever since I built it, but just tonight I've run into the weirdest issue. While I was working on restoring a friend's photo, I was going back and forth between talking with him and others on Telegram. I moved my mouse over several apps (I had to in order to get back to the program, obviously) and that particular app got highlighted. For some reason, I thought I had clicked it even though I didn't. Apps don't stay highlighted if you simply hover over them. Of course, I had to un-highlight it or else it would bother me, but clicking on the desktop didn't make it go away. In fact, something was wrong with this highlight box. Instead of being a transparent field, it was pitch blue. (Specifically #1E4C8C) I thought it was weird, so I tried clicking on another icon. The icon got highlighted in blue as well! Every app I hovered my mouse over turned blue and there was no way to make it go away! I tried refreshing the desktop, but that ended up turning my entire background into that same color! I no longer have a background on this specific monitor, (monitor 2), and it is simply just a blue background with parts of my original desktop wallpaper showing. This problem occurs on both monitors, and sometimes only works on one. I tried restarting explorer.exe, and it seemed fine for a few seconds, but the problem came back again. I tried restarting the computer, and the problem is back again. One thing I noticed is that drawing a selection field (y'know, that rectangular box you can draw out when you want to select multiple files at once) seems to literally draw the color onto my screen as if my desktop had been turned into the same program I was using to restore my friend's photo. Once the background had completely turned blue, any highlighted apps would show the original desktop in the same manner that it did with the blue color, and using the selection field would seemingly erase the blue color and show the desktop again. I thought I got hacked somehow or that there was some sort of virus deleting files from system32, (since odd things like this have appeared to happen in videos where YouTubers would delete the folder on a virtual machine) so I quickly checked inside of the folder, and it seemed fine. All functionality is also still there besides this odd bug, and videos play fine at any resolution. I scanned my computer with Malwarebytes, and it only found a PUP, so I let Malwarebytes uninstall it because I had only used it once and decided I didn't need it after all. I'm not really sure why exactly this is happening, nor do I know how to fix this, so please let me know what I can do to make the problem go away. Here are some screenshots of this specific monitor as an example:
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So I scraped up some money and I want to buy a SSD just for booting. I've been looking at a few and I see reviews all over the place. So I'm just wondering what you guys know and can recommend. I just want a fast and reliable drive that isn't over 50$. Thanks.
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Hi, I'm looking to upgrade my pc from a fx6100(biggest mistake of my life) To a Intel i5 8600k. But these days om not that invested in pc's anymore because of the Neverending rotation of new pc parts. So I would like to ask some help/ your suggestions of parts. Note that best bang for the buck is central in the build, but higher end may also be welcome if in your mind it's the better way to go. PC priorities: it has to be fast and silent(please give me some tips in the silent part, my current PC drives me nuts) I prefer atx Form factor. What I'm looking for. 1. I5 8600k 2.mobo(oc because of k series) 3. Ram(16gig 2stick) 4. Allin one liquid cooler. 5. psu (has to support at least 1080ti no sli/ future high end cards 1180ti?????) 6. Case mid tower or large tower (s340 elite? Or something that looks as good) 7.better case fans? (optional) For now that is all, for gpu I will be sticking with my gtx770 because prices and all and will probably pick up 1 when the new gpu lineup land. As for a ssd I got one but when I'll be upgrading that thing I was thinking on taking a m.2 ssd Also for the case I don't really care about the side panel it doesn't have to be transparent the thermals and silent part are more important. If I missed something please fill in. In the picture below is what I thought would be fairly decent. note, ignore the gpu and the ssd that will be for a later date. So what I think for the upgrade i would like to allocate 1000euro/1200dollars less is always better. (you don't have to bother exchanging the vultas if your in the US I'll do that when I'll start looking at my local pc web stores for the parts If you are missing any information please ask me. Sorry if the post is unclear or something does not follow the guidelines, I'm not that good at posting on forums and I try my best to. Be as clear as possible. Thank you in advance, Nick.
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Hello, I currently have an ASUS MX279H monitor which is a widescreen 1080p, a standard run of the mill 1080p monitor that's IPS. I am going to buy either a Samsung S27D850T or a Samsung S29E790C monitor to have two monitors going. The computer driving this has an i7 6700K and a Samsung 850 EVO SSD and will have a GTX 1070 (the wait continues). The two monitors I am interested in are: the S27D850T for $250 with a 1440p IPS 5ms response flat panel or the S29E790C for $280 with a 1080p IPS 4ms response curved, ultrawide panel. Should I spend the extra 30 and go down from 1440 to 1080 for the curved ultrawide? Thanks in advance!
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I am looking for a Gpu for my build No SLI Not for overclocking Yes Watercooled in a custom watercooled loop (I read that EVGA offer warranty even if you remove the stock cooler) Should I spend a ot of money choosing the best option? Or should give less money as far as I am not overclocker etc. ? I think the best option for gpus are ASUS EVGA GIGABYTE ... Tel me your opinion about which GPU should I buy ... MY SYSTEM X99 DELUXE 5820k 16GB CORSAIR VENGEANCE CORSAIR AX1200i SAMSUNG 950 PRO 512GB
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Greetings, all! I'm building a budget PC ($1500 USD) and it has come to my attention that the case I have selected is no longer in stock. I would like your assistance on choosing a new case based off of the parts listed in the PCPartsPicker list I've made. Here's the list: http://pcpartpicker.com/user/mackhack321/saved/b2nxFT I'd like the case to be fully compatible with the parts listed, along with having the same ports as the previously selected one. Thanks in advance.
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Amazon: http://geni.us/23gj NCIX: http://bit.ly/1MHPC4q The good, the bad, and the ugly in the PC tech world all get highlighted - and possibly torn apart - here!
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I hope I'm posting in the right place. This is my first time posting instead of browsing for information. So I will be doing a job in July that is going to pay between 900 and a thousand dollars. This isnt my primary income, its just something I will have on the side. I was wondering if you guys could help me by suggesting good parts that I can upgrade while staying inside my budget. Basically, I am going to post my specs, and you guys let me know what you would do if you had my budget to upgrade. Just to let you know, this PC was built almost three and a half years ago and is getting there in age. Parts have been switched in and out here and there when they needed to be replaced. PC SPECS - Mobo: Z77 ASRock Extreme4 Mobo (1155 Chipset) CPU: Intel i7 3770k (EDIT: I accidentally put a 4 instead of a 3. Yes i know the 4770 doesnt run in a 1155 chipset. my bad my bad.) RAM: 16GB of Vengeance LP RAM Case: CM Scout 2 Graphics: Nvidia Geforce GTX 670 Power Supply: 750w Thermaltake Bronze modular power supply (I had to switch out my old psu fairly recently and this was all I had available to me at the time. This needs upgraded.) MISC: h100i all-in-one cpu cooling solution, Samsung 850 EVO 500GB, OCZ 120GB SSD, 3TB Hard Drive Mass storage, soundblaster audio card that is currently not in my system as it caused my psu to fail from too much power draw, blu-ray r/w optical drive. If I'm not in the right place, please point me in the right direction, and if not please help me out. Feel free to go up to around 1300 max when helping me choose parts. I can squeeze that much more out of my savings for this upgrade. So tell me friends, What would you do with this system if it arrived on your doorstep with an envelope filled with 1 grand?
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Hi. I have this problem with my fairly newbuilt PC. I made a video so you can see the problem: There is also a problem when I hover the cursor over icons in the desktop. They are supposed to get the blue box around them and when I move the cursor slowly, they do but when I move it quickly only some of them does. I hope you understand. It feels like there is some generaly slow refresh rates in the desktop and only the desktop. When i open folders and such it's very responsive. Games are not affected by this cause they run very smooth. I have tested it out on other computers and there the problem doesn't exist. I'm getting really annoyed by this so I hope there is someone who can possible help me with this problem. I can make more videos to describe the problem if it's hard to understand. Thanks! I have the newest graphics drivers and mobo bios. OS: Microsoft Windows 8.1 pro 64-bit CPU: fx-8320 CPU-cooling:CM hyper 212 Mobo: Gigabyte ga 970a-ds3p am3+ RAM: 2x 4 GB 1600mhz ddr3 GPU: Gigabyte r9 280 oc HDD: seagate barracuda 1tb 7200rpm. Windows on it. PSU :fractal design r2 integra 650w
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my build: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/pTZ2f7 http://pcpartpicker.com/user/Cactusneedle_18/saved/#view=hhWj4D i really want a slightly faster gpu but im not quite sure what fills the gap between a gtx 970 and a gtx 960 SSC also im looking to lower my price in any way possible while keeping portability and high performance.
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I recently bought these $25 Iron Man themed headphones and the band keeps cracking because it's a pretty cheap plastic, so I'm looking for some good sounding, comfortable, over-ear headphones for around $60CAD (CAD NOT USD) for gaming at my PC. Brand doesn't matter as long as they are reputable. Thanks!
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Hi all! I have been using Geforce experience to update my drivers and optimize my games for a while now, but I have never really thought about just how the settings come to being before now… I remember Linus saying something in a WAN show about it being awesome and the settings being worked out manually by Nvidia for each game with each GPU the have. Does anyone know if this is true? And if it is not: What actually decides the settings? Is an algorithm as I thought in the title or is it something more advanced? Or maybe it just says that it wants 60 FPS or more in each game and adjusts the settings thereafter? I would be very appreciative of any info you might have and provide so come with it all!
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Hello everyone, I'm a Electrical Engineering student and I'm about to get my first job, but I need a new laptop for it. My old Asus N53SM 15.6" is getting old and slow (more then 3 years with her). I'm looking for a new laptop for office, AutoCAD, Matlab, Simulink, some light gaming, listening to music and watching movies. This is what I'm looking for: -Lightweight (The 6 pounds, 2.72 Kg, of my actual laptop is killing my back on the long walks I have to do) -Powerful (to handle all the programs mentioned before with ease) -Medium size (I don't want a laptop bigger than 15.6") -Durable (I want a Laptop that last, I have almost 3 years with this one and I know I can spend another year, but I really need a change) -That fit my budget (I only have US$ 800, If i convince my parents to lend me money I would get another US$ 800 for a total of US$ 1600, but I really don't want to spend more than US$ 1200) P.S: I've been looking at some laptops like Lenovo Y50: http://www.amazon.com/Lenovo-15-6-Inch-Laptop-59425944-Black/dp/B00K6ZIMPE/ref=sr_1_10?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1406058496&sr=1-10&keywords=lenovo Asus X550LN-DB71: http://www.amazon.com/Asus-X550LN-DB71-ASUS-15-6-Inch-Laptop/dp/B00JI9OHXU/ref=psdc1_t1_B00KN96V3S_B00JI9OHXU Asus N550JK-DS71T: http://www.amazon.com/N550JK-DS71T-Full-HD-Touchscreen-Laptop-Aluminum-Body/dp/B00IAA5BSS/ref=sr_1_13?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1406057994&sr=1-13&keywords=asus COULD YOU PLEASE HELP ME FIND MORE OPTIONS AND HELP ME SELECT THE BEST ONE? Thanks in advance, cheers from Dominican Republic.