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Found 80 results

  1. Hello, I am on my way to completing my plan to upgrade my setup, and I have everything from Hardware to Aesthetics. However, I am having trouble in finding a GPU that goes well with my CPU (The Sandy-Bridge Core i3 2120). Everything else in my setup hasn't been bought yet and I have a budget of around $400 to upgrade/have a setup (PC, Monitor, Decals, Peripherals, etc.). I have done a bit of research and came with these options, I just need help with choosing/finding a GPU: I have narrowed down to these options, feel free to add or give me suggestions/what to use: GTX 1050Ti (with a bit of bottleneck) RX 560 (with a bit of bottleneck) GTX 1050 RX 550 GTX 750Ti My PC (currently has): i3 2120 4GB DDR3 500GB 7200RPM Integrated HD 2000 No Wi-Fi Module The Case and PSU came with the PC (it's a pre-built), and I'm planning on taking the PSU and using that in the new case, with the RAM and GPU being the only hardware upgrade (maybe Windows 10), hence why I have no side panel Here's my plan so far (mainly just looking for a GPU): Computer Upgrades.pdf
  2. I've already cleaned out all of the dust and reapplied my thermal compound using Super-Triple Plattinum™ Diamond-Encrusted Liquid Neutronium Extreme Thermal Compound. And I’m throttling down to like 33% load, what gives? I can’t type with ice on my computer!
  3. I'm going to build a new pc this summer, and I am planning somewhere in the $800 dollar range, not sure exactly what to get so i came here. One of my friends has a second hand 2600k he uses now and he offered me $150 usd for it. I was planning on something like this: PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/L9RzmG Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/L9RzmG/by_merchant/ CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($194.99 @ B&H) CPU Cooler: CRYORIG H5 Ultimate 76.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($46.99 @ Newegg) Motherboard: MSI Z170A PC MATE ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($97.98 @ Newegg) Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($35.99 @ Newegg) Storage: Kingston SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($42.88 @ OutletPC) Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.98 @ OutletPC) Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 960 4GB Video Card ($219.99 @ Micro Center) Case: NZXT S340 (Black/Red) ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg) Power Supply: Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($27.98 @ Newegg) Total: $794.77 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-04-06 17:22 EDT-0400 Before you say get the r9 380, im going green team since its what i know well. Is a 2600k a good replacement for a 6500k? Is it worth it? Please Help!
  4. Hi! As I've said before, and entered into my profile, I have a Sandy Bridge i5, an H67 motherboard and 8 gigs of ddr3. My i5 is an i5-2310, which is pretty decent, but it doesn't allow me to max out the particle settings in Minecraft. Minecraft is a really CPU-based game, though. Basically, the CPU is alright, but it feels like it doesn't live up to my 270x. I don't want to get a new build now, though. I just got my rig in May and I don't have that sort of money. I'm waiting until 2016 or 2017, when 4K is more of a standard. But I'm sick of this processor. I don't know what to do. In Sweden, there are very few Used Products' sites. I checked blocket and they had an i5-2500k for 700 SEK/$80. I don't really have that money, especially for such a temporary upgrade. There aren't any Sandy Bridge processors at retailers. There aren't any Ivy Bridge ones either. Soon, there will be no Haswell or Devil's Canyon. It's impossible to find a better lga 1155 motherboard as well.
  5. Hi, I was wondering if any of you have had this problem in the past, and if so, how did you fix it: upon entering a 4.7 GHz overclock in my BIOS with an Asus p8-Z77 V motherboard, I enter windows to have it only show me a 4.589 GHz overclock in CPU-Z with the multi at 46 and the bus at 99.77. Is this a bug with CPU-Z, a bios problem, or a problem with my cpu? Please help :(
  6. Hello, I'm currently using a 3570k @ 4.3ghz on an AsRock Extreme4 Z77 with a Noctua NH-U14S. My friend has a used 2600K that's he's willing to sell to me for £25, however I'm debating whether to swap my current CPU out with the older i7. I mostly play games, but I also use my PC for music production (with Studio One 3), running emulators such as Cemu and Yuzu, and occasionally video editing too. I'm happy to overclock and I'm not so worried about getting the absolute max out of my GTX 970 as I only have a 60hz 2560x1080 monitor. Is it worth swapping out my i5 for the older i7? I've heard the Sandy Bridge chips overclock really well, I can't get my 3570k past 4.3 without serious temp increases. Thanks very much for reading! EDIT: I should've made it clear that I don't have the money to upgrade my motherboard and RAM so am stuck on the Z77 platform for the forseeable future.
  7. So I'm lost for words, I have this Intel motherboard bd75en. I put my 3770 core i7 in it and it Boots fine, only thing is it won't recognize my 1070. When I put my 2500 in it, it works fine. I've already updated the BIOS to the latest version available. I should also mention the fact that the 3570 I have works with the 1070 in the Intel board. The same 3770 works perfectly with a 970 that I also have in a different z77 board. I've tried different power supplies, different PCI Express slots, different power supply cables and pretty much everything but the combination of a 3770 with the GTX 1070 will not let me use 3D graphics, it won't even install Nvidia control panel. Anyone has any insights? I should add that the combination of a 3770k with the 1070 in my z77 board works perfectly but in the Intel board it will only take the i5 with the Pascal card.
  8. I have a Xeon E5 ES CPU with the IHS saying: Sandy Bridge EP Need a NON GIGABYTE MB
  9. I Have a Xeon E5 8 core ES and a capacitor fell off the bottom. What will it affect?
  10. I just updated the bios on my ECS P67H2-A3 and it boots and then shuts down afters 20 seconds. When I say boots I mean just shows the bios screen. If I press the delete key it says entering setup but still shuts down. It used to not boot at all until I removed some ram. I’m guessing my bios is toast and I need a new mobo. Oh yeah specs asus gtx970 i7-2600k p67hs-a3 cx500
  11. Hi, so recently my college was decommissioning their old Dell PC's and I managed to get an Intel Core i5 2500 from one of the IT guys there. I was wondering if this CPU is still good for gaming with the latest graphics cards of today or is it better suiting for something less like a GTX 750ti. I want to build a cheap used desktop and I was wondering if the 2500 is still worth it to build on.
  12. Considering getting a i7 2600k as I am seeing they are going for cheap. Currently I have an i5 760 overclocked to 4.0 Ghz, so I wouldn't have to switch out my cooler. Which Board would you recommend? All I need is micro atx with 4 ram slots and supports overclocking (Preferably an amazon link too) Thanks
  13. Hey guys so in some games my gpu and cpu usage are both low and i am getting low fps. Like why???? Why not use the full gpu power and give me 60 fps??? i have a gtx 1060 3gb and i7 2600. In other games the cpu usage is a bit high but the gpu usage is still low...is this a bottleneck? If so is it possible to overclock a non k cpu?
  14. READ CAREFULLY What would you choose? Intel Core I7 3960X [6C / 12T | @4.5 Ghz] ASUS Rampage IV Extreme Corsair Vengeance 32GB [DDR3 @1600Mhz] Or AMD RyZen 5 1600X [6C / 12T | @4 Ghz] Gigabyte GA-A320M-S2H Ballistix Sport LT 8GB [DDR4 @2400Mhz] Mostly for gaming and video editing PLEASE DONT RECOMMEND ME ANOTHER BUILD OR SOMETHING, I ONLY WANT TO KNOW WHICH ONE YOU WOULD CHOOSE
  15. I've been eyeing an upgrade from my current Xeon x3440 (nehalem) due to poor FSX performance. However, as I'm a cheapskates, I'm considering what is the best value I can get. I play CS, FSX, ETS2 and Insurgency and I like to stream a bit. Sandy bridge - e3 1230 for $55 + mobo Ivy bridge - e3 1230 v2 for $80 + Mobo Haswell - e3 1220 v3 for $65 I have a 1050 TI and play at 16x9 (Getting an Rx 470 and 1080 monitors) Is the e3 1230 much better than the x3440? And is hyperthreading worth it over the cheaper e3 1220 v3?
  16. I've decided to finally put what I have and take the plunge into PC gaming by upgrading my 2011 Dell Vostro desktop. I have already installed 12 gigs of ddr3 at 1600 MHz (yes, 12 GB of ram, I'll get to that later) and have selected a Core i5-2500 from Ebay since it's the best the LGA 1155 socket in this motherboard supports, or so my research has led me to believe. The problem I have is the VRMs on the board; I've seen some people online say that mismatched RAM modules (especially uneven RAM quantities) can place a significant strain on the VRMs and short the board. The RAM I have installed is a duo: one 4 gigs and the other 8 gigs. Maybe for a motherboard with a beefy heatsink this might not be a problem but my motherboard has none, like so: My question is: am I running a risk of shorting the board and if so, is there anything I can do to remedy that. Before someone comments what I believe to be the obvious: I got the RAM from a friend for $45 total and took the risk of mismatching the sets since none were similar and that was all I could afford. I appreciate any advice you guys can give me. PS: Tips on how to make a better looking/more appealing post are also welcome.
  17. Hey. I have my main computer which I game and watch youtube etc. So I bought another old pc from a school in my town. The pc is from 2012 and cost me 10€. I got keyboard, mouse and 16:9 monitor with the cables also with it. The computer has mATX MSI motherboard (LGA1155), i3 2100, 8gb of ddr3 1333mhz ram, cd/dvd drive, 500gb hdd and 500w psu. Yes, all that for 10€ (11.6 USD) I changed the 500gb hdd for a 120gb hdd from old laptop as Im not going to need that much space on second computer, so Im going to put the 500gb on my main computer. I don't have the 10€ computer at my home because I left it at my grandparents place because I go there a lot so I would have a computer to do stuff with there. I installed Linux Mint, as I want to learn linux more. The computer had some passive cooled geforce card but I did not bother about it and changed it to quadro fx 1800 that I got for free from a friend. After you have read my life story^^ (jk), I would like to ask what is the best sandy bridge cpu upgrade for cheap? I have been looking for i5 and i7. I would like the i7 more just because it's a i7. What do you think I should get? My budget is max 50-70€ and I do not want any like brand new parts as used will be the best option for this computer. I'm not going to edit any videos on this computer and only gonna be doing light gaming like casual minecraft, css, hl etc. older games for the nostalgia. And mostly this computer will be used just to browse internet by me as I am the only user.
  18. With Ryzen out and some great Intel options I am wondering what would be the better course in a few months time. I game at 1080p and the only AAA I have for now is BF1 although I play more World of Warships at the moment. However I hope to get into some more high end games soon including the Witcher III and Skyrim Special editions that came out. Thus I want to know if buying an i7-2600 or even 2600K used would be a good option for me. That is IF my motherboard can handle overclocking the K since it is not a Z class. It is also a first generation Sandy Bridge and I believe it may have the Sata bug that plagued the early models. It is already giving me some trouble on a few of the ports. Obviously I would like a new GPU to get the best results and I am torn between three options, 480/580 8G, 1060 6g, or try for a 1070. Which leaves me to my big dilemma, if I only upgrade then I can get the better GPU! While a new build in either platform will be at least 300-500 dollars and result in a cheaper GPU option out of necessity. I don't render much video except for family film, however with my son just turning 4 that may increase soon. So let me know what you guys and gals think would be the best option going forward in a few months time if you were in my shoes. As always I appreciate your time and input.
  19. Hey guys, A few weeks ago I started work on my first ever pc mod for a spring break project and it's finally done. This was done on a tight budget and old parts laying around so don't be to impressed with the specs okay. Let's start with the specs. LMAO as you can see these are just spare parts lying around because my smol little 15 year old self couldn't spend a lot. The project begins with mounting my lga1155 motherboard to the 1/8 in Baltic Birch plywood left over from making a few longboards (Seen in later pictures, bottom 2). I originally started by screwing motherboard standoffs into the wood but I decided to go with something more secure so later I used m3 screws with plastic 3d printed spacers in between. The bleed edge celeron in all of its glory lmao I began to plan everything out with pencil as well as start making holes for the cables. The holes were eventually cleaned up with a file. Test boot with my other computer because my power supply hadn't come in the mail yet. This was right after I had gotten my GTX 560 off of craigslist for $50. Bask in the 2011 era graphics card and all its glory. I eventually began mounting everything else to the piece of wood including the graphics card separated from the motherboard. Getting the nut screwed in was very difficult. I cut off the extra wood with a table saw and also cut the trim for the edges of the board. I took everything off and began my first coat of pure white paint. I later applied a second. I chose this paint to match the trim of my bedroom. I began painting the trim pieces orange. The 2 extra cheap $5 sketchy PCI-E riser cables came in the mail. I took off the tape and carefully inspected the sloppy solders. One of the risers was fine but I noticed a small imperfection on the other one while looking through a magnifier glass. The 2 solder points were barely connected and I proceeded to force them apart with a razor blade. After testing both the risers worked which was great because I didn't want to buy the $100 3M ones. I smothered the solders with hot glue for strength and then covered that in electrical tape. I began taping off the board for painting. It was very tedious work. The painting was ruff and took a long time but I finished the design and it made a very good "10 ft mod". Never the less I'm still very happy with the painting because I had little to no painting skills. I added the trim that keeps the board of the wall and hides the wires with glue and assembled the entire thing and it was done. I added picture frame wire hangers to the back and mounted it to my wall. The power button was added later to the top left. I'm veryyyyyy happy with how this build turned out. It was my first ever mod and I made on a very tight budget. I plan to upgrade the processor later but for now it sorta works okay. Thankfully this isn't my main rig. My main has a gtx 970 and an overclocked FX 8350 and a Samsung 850 EVO all in a NZXT S340. This was just a fun spring break project that I finished a few weeks after spring break. Spring break was gross and rainy. I don't have the cable management situated yet either for any of the i/o. I actually made this entire build log on this PC.
  20. I'm looking at buying a PC with one, and I want to know if it's still modern, especially with a water cooler.
  21. I am looking to upgrade my current rig to broadwell e, probably a 6900k what motherboard should I get? I currently have a 2600k with 8gb of ram, asus Maximus extreme motherboard, 4x256gb ssds in raid, a 1tb hard drive, a h110i cpu cooler, 2x gtx 980 in sli, a gtx 580sc that was supposed to be for physx but does nothing and a 1500watt bronze power supply. Which motherboard would be best to be able to just switch out the cpu and ram and do I need to change the cpu cooler? I am looking to upgrade my 980s some time soon but feel like my current cpu would bottleneck the system. I am currently playing at 1440p but would like to get an ultra wide and don't think I have enough to push that resolution. I am mostly going to be playing games but do some video from time to time. I don't want to get a 6700k as that doesn't seem like much of an overall upgrade. Thanks for your help
  22. This is my current build. OS: Windows 7 Home 64 bit MB: Gigabyte Z68MX-UD3H-B3 Processor: Intel Core i7 - 2700k LGA 1155 CPU Cooler: Hyper 212+ SSD: Crucial M4 256GB SSD Memory: Corsair Vegence DDR3 1600 4x4GB GPU: EVGA 680 GTX Reference PSU: PC Power and Cooling Silencer 910W Case: Cooler Master 690 Advanced II Monitor: Dell Ultrasharp 2412M (24inch IPS 1080p) So I know my current rig is pretty old. I built this back in 2011ish and I have not had the time to really upgrade it and did not see it being worthwhile to spend lots of money to upgrade. This computer is used for some moderate gaming + a bit of moderate video editing. At some time I will probably add in another monitor or go 1440p dual monitor setup. I'm thinking of making the following upgrades right off the bat (they are bolded) OS: Windows 10 Home 64 bit MB: Gigabyte Z68MX-UD2H-B3 Processor: Intel Core i7 - 2700k LGA 1155 CPU Cooler: Hyper 212X SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 500GB Memory: Corsair Vegence DDR3 1600 4x4GB GPU: EVGA GTX 1070 FTW or SC PSU: EVGA SuperNova 650 G2 Case: Cooler Master Mastercase 5 Pro Monitor: Dell Ultrasharp U2515H (single monitor setup for now but dual in a few months time) . (25inch 1440p IPS) I have seen tons of back and forth and debates regarding status of 2500k but have not seen much about 2700k. Is it worth upgrading to the 6700k from my current setup? Or should I wait about half a year or so and see what is going with the next architecture? If I hit up 6700k, I would need to buy new MB, New CPU, new ram which could be a rather expensive 600-800 USD upgrade that I am not willing to spend right now. I only got the 2700k because I got a really good deal via Intel's program (iirc around $100 USD) So what do you think about current upgrades to extend the life of my desktop and what would you do?
  23. I have recently acquired a fairly new HP motherboard (Model Number - 670960-001) And it doesn't have a North Bridge Heatsink (seen in picture below) I just wanted to check to see if it was ok to run this mobo with out a north bridge heatsink .
  24. This experiment started two days ago when I got curious as to what the new Win10 BSOD screen looks like. After putting in an OC that I knew was unstable, I got the BSOD and was in the OC mindset at this point. As a background/history of my system specs/issues, I'm running a Gigabyte GA-Z68XP-UD3P (rev. 1.3; UEFI U1G), 2600K, NH-D14, with 8GB G.Skill Sniper (1600MHz, XMP), and Win7-SP1-X64; Gigabyte boards have had a really bad boot loop issue in Z68 platform, and it was present throughout the legacy BIOS & UEFI beta releases as well. My previous max OC with this setup was 4.5 GHz because I couldn't enable Internal CPU PLL Overvoltage. Enabling this option resulted in cold boot loops where the PC would seem to fail POST 3-4 times before booting into Windows. I even tried my luck to get 4.6 GHz without it enabled but was faced with BSODs at idle and light loads yet stable under 100% load (another infamous, well-documented issue). Discussions of idle BSOD pinpointed the culprit to be C-states settings. I'm not sure if it's because of how the BIOS/motherboard handles it or the OS (or the combo of the two). Now back to OCing with Win10. I got curious to see if the OS somehow made any difference with boot issues that I've had in the past. I went ahead and input my previously tested 4.6 GHz but with Internal CPU PLL OV enabled this time around. Surely enough, I passed 10 rounds of IBT on Max; to my surprise, I even passed Prime Blend (90% RAM) for 12 hours. I even shut down the system multiple times and manually powered it on to see if it would loop. No cold boot loops yet. The final test was to shut down the system, wait overnight, and see if it'll gimme a cold boot loop in the morning. Well, good morning! NO COLD BOOT LOOPS. After a full day of various load scenarios (light web browsing, video streaming, gaming, and benchmarks), I've had no BSODs at idle or load—and no cold boot loops at all. Today I got brave, so I started squeezing out a 4.7 GHz OC and after a few rounds of crashes/adjustments it miraculously passed 10 rounds of IBT Max and Prime under high RAM usage as well! This is after being able to undervolt my CPU PLL voltage lower than I ever could. I used to crash one minute after booting into the OS on 4.7 GHz, so today I was literally asking myself, "How the hell is this happening right now?!" I know that this system has ancient hardware, but all of this is incredibly surprising to me, since the boot loop issue for high OCs was never fully resolved. Win10 may be handling C-states and/or CPU PLL voltages a lot better than Win7, but I'm just taking a wild guess. I'm hoping that anyone with a Sandy Bridge Z68 Gigabyte system will find this a bit helpful and possibly try out Win10 for OC purposes.
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