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TL;DR Asus Armory Crate doesn't recognize my Ryujin III AIO and because of that I can't customize the screen and set it to turn of with my PC I like my equipment to look as good as it works and I built my PC for gaming/streaming and animation. I recently had the chance to upgrade my stock intel cooler to ROG Ryujin III 240mm ARGB AIO so i did. everything works great except I cant customize the screen and my case fans don't spin until I'm in windows here is the full spec of my PC CPU: intel core i5 12th gen 12400f RAM: 32GB (8GBx4) Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 3200Mhz GPU: GIGABYTE Vision OC RTX 3070 8GB Motherboard: ROG STRIX B660-A GAMING WIFI D4 Case Fan controller: CORSAIR iCUE COMMANDER CORE XT Case: Corsair 275R Airflow thank you for your help
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I dont even know how this is possible, I have a R9 5900X going to 114% usage and I wanted to know if anyone has any idea what the problem is, I dont have other parts to test and here is what I have of information so far: I start to notice that the cooler was always going 100% and temps were always in 90-95C so I enable the temp limit on PBO on 75C and for my surprise didnt lose any perfomance, still boosting and holding nicely on almost 5GHz on cinebench. Previous to that I was only using PBO with no temp limit. I already tested with PBO desable, clean windows 11 and windows 10 instalation, BIOS reset to default and the problem of the temperature is still there, but the last time I was doing the test I notice that the CPU utilization was over 100%. I started to notice this problem back when the pump of my old AIO stopped working (It was a Lian Li Galahad 360mm AIO 2020 edition, so it had the clogging problem), I though the problem was only temperature because one of the tubes wasnt even flowing water anymore but even with another cooler the temperature problem continues and I dont know if it has relation to the CPU usage problem. On Task Manager it only shows 100% usage because the graph can only go up to 100%. My PC spec: CPU: Ryzen 9 5900X Cooler: Pichau Dark Star P1 Extreme Motherboard: ROG B550 Strix Gaming A RAM: 4x16GB XPG D60G CL18 3600MHz GPU: RX 570 4GB SAPPHIRE PULSE PSU: Corsair RM850X White (2018) Fans: 9 Lian Li Unifans SL 120mm Case: Lian Li O11D
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Troubleshooting Help: CPU - AMD Ryzen 5 5600X MOBO - ASUS ROG B450-F Gaming II GPU - ASUS TUF 4080 OC PSU - Corsair RM1000x https://pcpartpicker.com/b/KKDcCJ My new 4080 from Asus will not work on my PC, I've narrowed it down to software issue at this point after trying many different configurations GPU works in my I5-7600 build with B250 mining board and multiple different power supplies and cables. Reinstalling mobo bios, AMD chipsets from AMD's site and a clean install of nvidia display drivers. I've done the UEFI gpu bios update from nvidia. I haven't done a full windows reinstall yet tho. With the lack of onboard graphics, I've put my 1070 in PCI slot 1 and the 4080 on slot 2 to boot with a display. Card shows up in device manager only, with a code 43 (sometimes without the error) If I try to swap their slots, mobo just gives me a VGA error light and no display output on either card. With no display drivers installed, I don't get any display from the card and a VGA error light on the MOBO but I think it is booting since AURA lights do come on after a little time. I've got a corsair 12vhpwr 2x8pin connector to try different power setup then the splitter provided. So in summary, I know the card works with multiple power supply configs since I've ran some test gaming sessions on my intel mining setup but every normal software troubleshooting step has not got it to work on my AMD setup
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hello i want to upgrade my pc after 6 years and i choose my parts except for power supply. i want to get psu from asus rog but i don't know i must choose 750-850-1000 watt. any one can helping me choosing the right one for this system becase i dont want to do any future upgrade but after 5 to 6 years doing whole pc upgrade again. IMPORTANT: I DON'T WANT TO USE THIS PC FOR GAMING ONLY WANT TO USE THIS PC FOR MY PROJECT AND MY WIFE JOB. we use xbox for gaming so no gaming on this pc at all. please explain to me why you choose that psu too. part list: AIO: ASUS ROG RYUO III 360 ARGB CPU: AMD RYZEN 9 7900X GPU: ASUS ROG Strix RTX-4060 MOBO: ASUS ROG STRIX X670E-F GAMING WIFI DDR5 AM5 Motherboard RAM: Patriot Viper Xtreme 5 RGB DDR5 32GB 2x16GB 8000MHz CL38 UDIMM Memory SSD: 3X Patriot Viper VP4300 Lite M.2 2280 NVMe 2TB PCIe Gen4x4 SSD CASE FAN: 6X ASUS ROG STRIX XF 120 Case Fan(want to replace those with original rad fan)and want to do push/pull. KEYBOARD: ASUS ROG Claymore II Red Switch RGB Wireless Mechanical Gaming Keyboard MICE: ASUS ROG Chakram Wireless Mouse SLEEVE CABLE: LIAN LI Strimer Plus PW12 PV2 ARGB 3×8 Pin motherboard Extension Sleeve Cable SLEEVE CABLE: LIAN LI Strimer Plus ARGB EXTENSION 24 pin Sleeve Cable RISER CABLE: SilverStone Technology RC05 220mm Flexible PCIe 4.0 x16 CASE: ASUS ROG Hyperion GR701 power supply: 1.ASUS ROG THOR 1000P2 GAMING Platinum 2.ASUS ROG STRIX 1000W Gold Aura Edition Full Modular Power Supply 3.ASUS ROG Thor 850 80+ Platinum 850W Fully Modular RGB Power Supply with LIVEDASH OLED Panel and 10 Year Warranty im putting 2 different kind 1000W psu do i get confused which one is better and why. i will appreciate your explanation.
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BIOS version 317 Windows 11 version 23H2 Problem: Under normal usage, the laptop will perform fine for a short period, then have a line across it become completely dead to all touch or pen input just above the primary thunderbolt port (as in the image attached). There seems to be some correlation between plugging the computer in to charge and the problem beginning, as it normally can be avoided after being turned off for multiple hours, then turning it on and using it on battery life. That trend holds for the most part aside from some outlier cases where the issue will begin outside of charging the device. Nothing seemed out of the ordinary when monitoring system usage and power draw while the problem developed. The problem occurs across all application, the desktop, and while in BIOS. Attempted solutions: I've tried looking for updates to the touch and pen display drivers, but couldn't find any through windows auto-update. I've also tried uninstalling them then letting the system reinstall them. Updating windows had no effect. Question: I mainly just want to know if anyone has had this issue before on a similar device and what the issue can be a sign of, as well as how to go about fixing it. I have a hunch that either the digitizer is starting to go, it may have a bad/loose cable connection, or that there is a short somewhere. I just don't want to open up the device without a clear idea of what I should be looking for, and I don't want to have ASUS ship me a screen replacement if the problem lies elsewhere. Thank you to anyone for your help, it is much appreciated.
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Just contributing... ASUS ROG-STRIX-RTX3070-08G-GAMING thermal pads Note: pads 10, 11, 12 and 16 - I used 1.5 mm thermal pads, which work, but after measuring the chips I think 2.0 mm pads should be the correct ones. I also sent the picture to the thermalpad.eu, so hopefully it will appear there as well.
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As you can see with the picture, my screen broke. This is an ASUS ROG STRIX laptop, model G733ZW-XS96 with a MFD:2022-09. I need a replacement, it's not in warranty and I'm not willing to send it to ASUS only to be assessed unknown charges to "diagnose" what is a clear problem. I would appreciate any help in locating somewhere to buy a replacement screen as the parts provider ASUS provided is being difficult to navigate. Thanks everyone!
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Hello everyone, recently my RTX 3080, an Asus ROG Strix RTX 3080 V2 OC Edition, started acting strangely. I had to replace the side fans cause they started to make a terrible noise, so I disassembled, changed the fans, cleaned old thermal paste and thermal pads, new thermal pads (right size) and reassembled (no temperature problem in game, stable at 70°C on Memory and 65-68°C on Hot Spot). Since it was like 1 month of doing a terrible noise, I've been unaccustomed by the up and downs of the fans, and now it's driving me mad. As you can see all the fans do up and downs. I tried changing everything on GPU TWEAK III, the only way to solve this is to put the % on 71, which fixes the RPM of the fans. Anything between 30 and 70 keeps the fans do up and downs. I have all the drivers updated, bios of the mobo too. Tried the "NVIDIA Resizable BAR on systems with an ASUS GeForce RTX™ 30 series graphics card" RTX3080_V6 update from official support, it said that I don't need any update for it. This is my current setup: Case: be quiet! Silent Base 802 Window Black MOBO: ASUS ROG Z490-H CPU: Intel Core i7-10700K @3.80GHz Cooler: NZXT Kraken x52 GPU: Asus ROG Strix RTX 3080 V2 OC Edition RAM: Crucial Ballistix 4x8Gb @3200MHz PSU: be quiet! Straight Power 11 1000w Platinum HDD: WD Black 2 TB + WD Black 3 TB SSD: Samsung SSD 970 EVO 500 GB + Samsung SSD 860 EVO 1 TB OS: Windows 10 Pro 64 bit Primary Monitor: LG 27GL850 27" 2k@144Hz Secondary Monitor: ASUS VA24EHE 1080p UPS: Cyberpower CP1500EPFCLCD Thank you for any help and suggestions you can give.
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I've been messing with linux on my Flow Z13 again and I thought the throttling issue was fixed on recent kernels but it appears not. The CPU (12900H on mine but it appears to be on every Z13 12500H-13900H) is stuck at ~10W/1GHz, limited by current (as reported by throttled) I believe it's something to do with Intel DPTF/DTT. I've tried a ton of things including older kernels, disabling intel_pstate, throttled, changing performance mode/governor, BIOS updates, etc. My guess is it could be related to the DPTF ACPI uuids, there's a lot of talk about this on ultrabooks but it seems like a very similar issue. On the Z13 there are no available UUIDs though. /sys/bus/platform/devices/INTC1041:00/uuids/available_uuids UNKNOWN /sys/bus/platform/devices/INTC1041:00/uuids/current_uuid INVALID From what I've seen it seems like the available IDs can't be changed and is something set in firmware (and apparently it can be set differently for Windows/Linux?) If someone has more insight that would be awesome. I've also made attempts to contact ASUS but they don't have an email and the online chat doesn't work so... If there is some actual way to report UEFI/Firmware issues that would be awesome.
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Every time I enable monitor overclocking, when on bios splash screen or safe mode the resolution changes al the way to 1280x1024 75hz, and only goes back up to 1440p when on Windows. When on my native refresh rate (144hz) with the overclock function disabled the problem is not there anymore. Does anyone know the reason and a fix? P.D: If change to 144hz on windows with the OC function enabled the problem is still there.
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Intel Core i9-12900K Asus ROG STRIX LC II ARGB 80.95 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler Asus ROG STRIX Z690-E G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 64 GB (2 x 32 GB) DDR5-6400 Upgraded to an ASUS ROG STRIX Z790 - A Samsung 990 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ( X 2) XFX Speedster MERC 319 Radeon RX 6950 XT 16 GB Asus ROG THOR P2 Gaming 850 W 80+ Platinum Asus TUF Gaming GT501 ATX Mid Tower Case Microsoft Windows 11 Pro ASUS ROG Chakram X Origin - mouse ROYALAXE X ProtoArc Y98 - keyboard LG UltraGear QHD 34-Inch Curved monitor Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 - audio Hisense 55 inch gaming tv Added- 4 Lian LI Unifan AL v2 IMG_7597.mov 72483840534__7ACE8E6D-900B-42C9-A42E-D9B6F27C180D.MOV
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Hey guys, Recently, my family has gifted me a 4090 Strix as a graduation present considering I've just graduated from college with honors and an Advanced Diploma. That being said, although I am happy that I will now be joining the 40 series gang this unfortunately does mean I will be parting ways with my beloved 3080 ti from EVGA. It served it's purpose and I will miss the customer service EVGA brought me whenever I had issues with EVGA hardware. Whether it being GPUs or PSUs, I still firmly believe that EVGA's customer service was by far the best. Now with them leaving the GPU industry, that leaves ASUS, MSI, Gigabyte and Zotac as the main contenders for choosing a Graphics card. With that being said, I do have one question. How good is ASUS' customer service compared to all other brands? Although I am confident that my new GPU will last for several years I am wondering how their customer service fares when it comes to dealing with RMAs or replacement requests for GPUs. Despite the controversy between ASUS and J2C my family still went ahead with ASUS which I do not mind as it is the card that I originally wanted when the 4090s released. For anyone that has gone through the RMA experience, what was it like? How did ASUS treat you compared to EVGA? If anyone has any stories they would like to share please let me know! Thank you!
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Either I am not understanding the spec, or the manual is contradicting itself. The manual: https://dlcdnets.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1700/ROG_STRIX_Z790-E_GAMING_WIFI_II/E22402_ROG_STRIX_Z790-E_GAMING_WIFI_II_EM.pdf?model=ROG%20STRIX%20Z790-E%20GAMING%20WIFI%20II On page 8/9 (with the blue) the storage row says that the M.2_1 and M.2_2 slot go straight to the CPU. On page 26 under heading 6. M.2 slot, it says the M.2_2 slot goes through the chipset. I obviously want the M.2 to go straight to the CPU, whilst nog limiting the GPU by using the M.2_1 slot which would make the GPU go x8. So logically that would mean using the M.2_2 slot, but does or doesn't it go straight to the CPU...
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Hey all, Im in the market for a new monitor and I was considering the Asus ROG Swift 1440p 360hz. I was wondering if it would be a bad idea since 1) lots of negative reviews mentioning QC issues and 2) it’s a gsync monitor and I have an amd card. Any suggestions on wether I go for it or get the Alienware 280hz instead? Thanks!
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I have zephyrus m16 2022 and I was using my laptop to watch YouTube but suddenly it got blank screen and turned off. I tried turning on but nothing. At first I thought it was overheating or something but after a full day of rest it still isn't turning on. When I try to turn on the drive activity led lights up but no sign of life. same for when I connect cord except power led doesn't turn on for main power supply. I can charge it using type c but it charges for like 5 sec before it gets cut off and starts charging again.
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PC Specs: RTX 3060 Ryzen 5 5600X 32GB 3600Mhz CL18 (4*8) Asus ROG STRIX B550-F gaming MOBO Hi, I'm having a problem with my 1st and 3rd DIMM slots on my motherboard. The problem is that my PC crashes irregularly when I play games. It all started this summer and the changes that I had made to the PC before it started crashing were adding another identical 16GB kit of ram and an SSD. At first it didn't cross my mind that it had to do with the ram/MOBO. I thought it had to do with the CPU. But then later I began to think it was the GPU since my CPU wasn't running above 80 degrees and when the PC crashed the CPU wasn't being 100% utilized. When it crashed my PC still had power, but it didn't get any display and I couldn't do anything except turn it off with the power button. This made me believe it was the GPU. But then I sent the GPU in to the store that I bough it from and they tested it for problems for multiple days and couldn't find a problem with it. They said that I should check the ram, so I checked my ram sticks and they are identical corsair vengeance RGB RS 3600Mhz CL18, except the ones I had from the beginning were ver. 3.31 while the ones I added this summer were ver. 3.34. This led me to believe it was a compatibility issue with the two ram kits since they were different versions. But I also tested them individually (I put in one ram stick at a time, in each DIMM slot), every stick of ram worked but they only worked when I had them in either DIMM slot 2 or 4. When I tried putting them in either DIMM slot 1 or 3 the PC would power on but I wouldn't get any display. I googled if you could run a single ram stick in any of the DIMM slots and it said that you could. (I still haven't ruled out the compatibility issue with the two ram kits though I think it's unlikely to be the problem since I discovered the MOBO problem) I tried putting a single ram stick in DIMM slot 1 in two other PC's and they both worked fine unlike mine. I also tried my own ram stick in one of the computers and it worked fine. This made me sure that my sticks were not the problem. Then I tried putting in two ram sticks in DIMM slots 1 and 3 in my pc and it didn't boot. But when I put in all 32GB or ram in the PC it boots and all 32GB gets recognized by the computer even though DIMM slot 1 and 3 didn't seem to work earlier (This is also the ram configuration that crashes, 4*8GB). So I was wondering if my MOBO is broken somehow or if it's some sort of feature on Asus MOBOs (the two other PCs I tested in had MSI MOBOs) (Just to clarify I had 16GB of ram at first in the 2nd and 4th DIMM slot and it worked fine but then I added 16GB to the 1st and 3rd DIMM slot and my pc started crashing)
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Hello, this is my first post on this forum! Im looking for some advice, and you’ve probably heard it a lot before anyway, but here goes. I’ve recently taken delivery of a part built system, that I specified with a PSU from beQuiet, specifically the Pure Power 12M 1000w fully modular unit. When I received the machine, it was my intention to add, among a couple of other peripherals, a GPU. I found an Asus ROG Strix RTX 3090 on sale on Facebook Marketplace for an absolute steal, so naturally, I bit their hand off. However when it came time to fit the card, I discovered there were only 2 12-pin ports on the IO of the PSU, the third is a PCIe 5.0 slot, very different in shape and character to the “standard” PCIe power cables (12-pin to 8-pin). I’ve trialled the card with two out of three 8-pin ports populated and connected, and even though the RGB on the card lights up as expected, I also see a red LED over the unpopulated port, and naturally I get no display output. I’ve read various comments about Daisy chaining two connectors from one cable, about how it isn’t recommended but is also field tested and indeed carried out in various situations. Is it also possible to adapt PCIe 5.0 to an 8-pin, via a female to male adaptor cable, to keep the recommended 3 dedicated cable setup? Or would I have to daisy chain in this case? Thank you for your time and attention, may you all have a very pleasant day!
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Anyone know what to do ? My laptop Asus g55vw suddenly not booting up ,no sign hdd and fan start , but the other light on motherboard still on. Motherboard automatic on when i plug charger but it didn't start when i just use battery because it didn't recognize the battery ( no light even i plug the charger when the battery still plugged ) . I have tried remove other component 1 by 1 but still have same problem , but when i half plug the fan's cord , fan start running , but when i plug it full the fan stop. anyone can help me with this problem ? thank you TT^TT
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Hi! my setup: i9 13900k Rog strix RTX 3080ti G.Skill 7600 Mhz 2x16 Gb Rog z790 Maximus Extreme + Rog fan controller I need help with setting up AIDA 64 - for the moment fans and sensors connected to ROG fan controller are not visible through Aida 64… controller is a part of maximus extreme set - it is connected with USB to the MB. Any ideas what may be the problem?
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My Asus ROG GX800vh laptop, which I have been using for over a year Last night I used all fine and shutdown as usual, came from office today and started it up; laptop turns on, fans spinning but no display, not posting and numlock light is on. Things I've tried: Opened laptop and 2 out of 4 rams to see if it boots, cleaned rams and ram slots. Not working. Also, getting access to 2 of the ram slots are tedious thing. Resitteed all 3 SSDs. So far nothing worked. And in google there's not much info about gx800vh. PLEASE I NEED HELP !
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This is my first post so hopefully I'm doing this right. This requires a little background. I just bought an ROG Ally and want to install games on it. Thing is, I'm a trucker and only go home a few times a year. That means I'm stuck using mobile data for pretty much everything. I have a 100GB tethering cap on my plan. To avoid hitting that, I download larger files directly to my phone then transfer them to my tablet, laptop etc. Is there a way for me to download a game outside of steam, then import it into steam? Even if it means grabbing a pirated copy (I'm paying in steam) and somehow importing it into steam once I've paid for the game? For the record, I'm wanting to do this with Stray. Any help would be appreciated.
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Hey everyone, I have a problem with my Asus ROG Strix 2080 Super ("ROG-STRIX-RTX2080S-O8G-GAMING"). For a while now, I'm unable to, for example, play a game (Destiny 2, GTA 5, Elite Dangerous,...) and watch a video (mostly Youtube) at the same time. The video just loads/stutters/stops/is unwatchable. I've noticed in HWInfo that in those situations the GPU temperature is around 65-70°C but the GPU-hotspot temperature is always around 105°C and the card is thermal throttling. Even when just having Chrome and HWInfo open right now, there is a difference of about 20°C. From what I've read a ~20-40°C difference between average and hotspot can't be good. I haven't OCd the card or changed anything besides a more aggressive fan curve. My first step then was to clean the card as good as possible and adjust the fan curves, but with no result. Now my second step was to go to a small PC repair shop nearby to have the thermal pads + -paste renewed (I know I could've done it myself, but I didn't want any chance of damaging the card). I just got the card back from them, but the card is only 2°C cooler (both average and hotspot) than before. That leads me to believe that either the paste wasn't the problem and I just wasted 30€ or I was ripped off and they didn't do anything. This can't be the normal behaviour of the card, is it? At least that's not what I'm expecting from a XX80-level GPU. My problems are therefore: I can't play a game and watch a video at the same time and the difference between avg. temp. and hotspot temp. is too big/the hotspot gets too hot. System specs: CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 5800X Memory: 32GB DDR4-3600 GPU: Asus ROG Strix 2080 Super (currently using Nvidia "Game Ready" Driver 535.98, although I also had the problem with earlier drivers) PSU: Corsair RM 750X (750W 80+Gold) Case: BeQuiet Dark Base Pro 900 rev. 2 Windows 10 64-bit (21H1) 1 * 2560x1440@165Hz + 2 * 1920x1080@60Hz screens What else can I do? Thanks in advance!
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I have an Asus Rog Zephyrus G14 which has a 1080p 144hz display. I am seeing flickering which looks like the screen is broken when it is on 144hz and when I switch it to 60hz the screen flickers significantly less but not like before it goes dim and it just flickers normally I can see the whole screen now. I have tried removing my Nvidia drivers and AMD drivers and reinstalling both of them but nothing worked. But the Microsoft generic display driver didn't have any problem but obviously, I cannot use that. So, 144hz = Looks like Broken Screen and 60hz little flickering (sometimes none) I have recorded a video and attached it, please look at it. You won't see 60hz flickering maybe because the recording was in 30fps, but it is there. VID_20230604_105945 (1).mp4
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Hi guys, I Need urgent assistance here! Till yesterday my Asus ROG FLow X13 GV301_RE was working fine, but something happened and it stopped taking charge: I connect charger and laptop turns on, but battery level does not go above 8%. If I disconnect the charger while the laptop is in (8% battery) it shuts down. I am a student and my internship starts Monday. Anyone, please assist asap. I contacted Asus they are asking $60 for shipping the device to them and it might take 3 weeks to a month to return the device. I cannot wait that long. Thanks.