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Here's how I have my PC set up. I have Windows 10 installed in an SSD so thats where I'm booting it up. I install all my apps and games separately in an HDD but lately I found it to run sluggishly whenever I access it in the file explorer and I tried to transfer a newly downloaded file to it and it was taking forever. So I have a bad feeling I need a new HDD but will simply cut-and-pasting all the files there cut it? Again, I installed apps and games in that HDD which I plan to replace but will my Windows still recognise them as the programs I installed before if it reads it from the replacement drive or will it mess things up (due to registry files and stuff like that?)

Hey guys, I've been using my old razer blade stealth 2016 (The one with the THICC bezels) for a while, it works fine but the screen recently had broke as shown below where half the screen is fuzzy. I've been to places where they have quoted me 400-600 to replace it but at that point I might as well get a new laptop. Instead I've been using it with an external monitor and trying to find a screen on ebay to replace it with. My question is, can I replace the screen with the late 2017 screen? Mine is the i7-7500u version whereas the 2017 one is the 8th gen i7. I'm not sure if the dimension of them are the same and if they both us the same connector for the screen. If anyone can help it would be much appreciated! Here is a picture of my current screen. It has a dodgy red pixel on the same line of when it starts to go fussy and when I try watching something the screen will turn full black except that pixel.

Hi, I have an XPS 15 9560 from a couple years ago. A couple weeks ago, my battery (97whr - 6GTPY - GPM03) started its death spiral and eventually I pulled out the inflated thing and brought it to a nice big recycling center upstate. Now in searching for a replacement, I have already tried contacting Dell's Spare Parts department who have confirmed everything I have read in other forums (r/Dell and r/XPS) which is that they don't have any of the battery in stock and have no clue when it will become available again. I then started looking online to try to find a reputable seller with some decent reviews to back up the legitimacy of their "genuine OEM" product. Turns out I might as well been hunting for unicorns as I can't find a single source that seems legit enough to get me to spend my money with confidence. I am a full-time student with limited resources and I don't want to add more problems into my life buying a sketchy battery and having to pay for another. I have already checked out sellers on Amazon, who all seem to be pretty hit or miss. I found a couple options on Newegg but none of the products have reviews and the sellers are a bit hit or miss. (For example). I also found this at Walmart, but again, no reviews and I cannot find any info on the seller. I am wondering if any of you have the 9560, needed to replace the battery, and managed to find a decent source (or any to avoid). Thanks for your help,

Anyone know where to get one of these? It's off of a Sony DCR-VX2000 or a DCR-VX2100 or DCR-VX2100E microphone. Does anyone have one/ know where to get one?

Figured I should replace the thermal compound on my Rx580 since it's pretty old at this point, and checked the temps beforehand. At idle it was about 26/27 Degrees and under load it got up to about 73ish. Took the thing apart and added new paste and now it's at about 28/29 degrees at idle (it was at 34 at one point, but I think the room temperature was different so I turned on AC) and 70-71 during load. Is the difference at idle likely because of difference in room temperature? Or is it possible I didn't add enough thermal paste or something? Also should I have changed out the thermal paste on the RAM or will that not make much of a difference? In the end I figure that the difference here is pretty minor so it probably isn't that big of a deal anyways, but I'm curious about this stuff.

Hi, Where can I find genuine replacement pads for my HD 598 SE? I can't seem to find any replacements by sennheiser. Edit: or are there any pads that would be better than stock? I'm a little scared of changing the sound of these headphones, because I love them so much lol. Thanks, Joe DiCristo

So me ex-cat decided to ruin my day and break my monitors. The most heartbreaking is my New Pixio PX7 Prime. I'm having difficulties finding a replacement panel. I need a M270KCJ-K7B and don't have many choices. I can source one from AliExpress for $250-300 with 6 or so weeks of shipping. Or.... I can buy an Acer VG270UP from Newegg for $300. Has anyone tried buying a cheaper monitor just to be a donner?

This is my first post in this forum! I am sorry if this is not the right place for this threat. Will gladly move or have the post moved to the correct one if that's the case! Thought this fit better in troubleshooting because this is low-level stuff, instead of discussion about stand-alone displays. Well, let's get right into the subject. I have recently found a way to get a 2015 13" A1502 retina MackBook, the first mac I ever owned. I am not sure if I will get used to MacOS and, if I don't, I will likely install Linux for a more familiar interface. Great trackpad, keyboard and durable metal build, that's te stuff. But none of this had anything to do with displays yet, no. The laptop's retina screen is broken. Retina is what apple likes to call their high density displays. I know the chip is working fine, the only broken part is the glass/LCD, because only part of the screen doesn't work. I wish to replace it! But a replacement display assembly is worth more than the computer itself. A display-only (glass + lcd, once they are fused together) replacement is actually not that much cheaper, and the risk involved (at least with my experience) doesn't help to make it worth it. I am as experienced in dealing with hardware as you could ask from a engineering undergrad student, and am trying to get into lower-level stuff. Then it came to me: I could try to use another retina screen, from a late 2013 or a 2014 model (both are the same model, A1502). I found out it would be recognized as an external display and take a bit longer to turn on after you turn the laptop on (It does not recognize the chip and will somehow treat it as an external display. Wait some of the OS to load before actually making use of the screen), but that's not an issue. You can likely just replace the chip/controller board from the 2013-2015 screen with one from a 2015. That should definitely work! But if I could get away with that, maybe I could use a non-retina screen to replace the one on the laptop. My research has lead me to know it uses a 30-pin connector, and that it uses an iDP (internal Display port) standard for signal transfer. This means I might end up frying the board if I try to go too far. I might even manage to get a 4k display on it, although I am not entirely sure the iDP would handle it. And even if it does, I will likely need to use the broken display's board, and it is likely to fry if I try something too over the board. The idea was to start simple. Maybe just a fullHD; quite sure I can find or adapt an existing laptop screen model to work with the MacBook's hinge slots. Trim a bit here, cut a bit there, make it fit with the frame and everything. Do any of you have any recommendations? Have you made an unholy or bizarre alteration, or ever heard about someone doing this? Is there a way to get my hands on the schematics for the screen/motherboard, or access to other information/literature on the subject? And how can I find out what display standard they are using for a certain computer display? I am way more interested in learning how this stuff works and trying out new things than to get the computer to work. I could just plug it through HDMI to a TV and call it a day. But won't help me understand this low level stuff. Thanks, everyone!

Hi, i first had my PC assembled 6 years ago, over the years i have upgraded my PC but one thing have not changed since then which is my PSU: Corsair AX750. Its warranty last for 7 years which means its ending next year and i'm wondering is it time for me to replace the PSU even though its still working perfectly fine? Thank you

I want to increase the thermal performance of my predator helios 300 and wanted to know if the choices are good enough. I'll be going for Cooler Master MasterGel Thermal Compound Grease Paste - MGX-ZOSW-N15M-R1 and Aeoss 9Pcs Open Pry Screwdriver Repair Tool Kit Set also Bosch Screwdriver Set (38-Pieces)

Hi! I own a notebook asus X550LD on which I can change my GPU which is a GeForce 820M 1gb coupled to an i5-4210U. I would like to change this GPU to another (8xxM Series mandatory if I understood correctly) to have better in-game performance (Because with an 820M it starts to get complicated to play, I hold a minimum of 30fps on some games barely.)

This is not really a full review, more just my recent experiences with the Razer Blade and Razer's customer support. In 2014 I purchased a Razer Blade 14". I was looking for a quality, thin, and high-performance laptop; so I was willing to dish out a little bit more in hopes that it would last me a while. Less than 4 years later the battery is dead as expected, but unlike most laptops this will not even run while plugged in because the Blade uses more power than the charger provides. In addition to this, they do not even support battery replacements for my model anymore. I spent $2,900 on this laptop and the hardware, which is still adequate for me, is rendered useless by Razer not supporting a part they knew was bound to fail quickly. The best thing they could offer me is 30%-off a refurbished 2-year old Blade, which is likely to run into the same problem in 2 years. IMO this is unacceptable customer support on Razer's part due to what was most likely a deliberate decision. Quite frankly as a long-time viewer I'm also disappointed in LTT for continuous shilling the Blade so hard without at least warning of Razer's reputation for poor customer support.

Hi Guys, I was going to upgrade my PC sometime ago but skipped it and edged out more life from my ageing hardware. It is now showing its age and I have a few options and some advice would be welcome, I have a couple of options and plenty of time on my side as while it needs replacing I want to do plenty of research... Current Spec: AMD Phenom II X6 1090T MSI 990FXA-GD80 Corsair H60 Corsair Vengeance 16GB DDR3 1600 Mhz ATi/AMD 5850 1Gb OCZ ARC100 256GB Coolermaster CM 690 II Advanced Case OCZ GameXStream 850W PSU GPU I have had since 2009 and most of the other parts since 2011. I'm currently cosidering 2 options: Egde out more life from my existing system: Upgrade CPU to AMD FX 8350 Upgrade GPU to 1060 6GB Keep everything else Bigger build: Ryzen 5 2600X (?) Dark Rock Pro 4 B350 Motherboard Corsair 16GB DDR4 3000 1060 6GB or 1070 Samsung 860 500GB New PSU (?) Keep the case Thanks in advance.

Hello! I was on a vacation with my family for a week, unplugged the PC from the connector til I wasn't home. My Acer G245H didn't have any problems before I went away, but when I got home it wasnt working?? I plugged the computer back, and just turned the system on how I would normally do. The Welcome screen appeared for about half a second, then it shut down. At this point I was kinda confused because I didn't know what was going on. I turned the monitor off and on again (the blue light was still on which meant that the screen's on properly) and it worked again for half a second. I restarted the Pc about 5 times and still nothing. Everything was plugged in normally but that shouldn't be a problem becuase it wasn't touched for a whole week. I replaced it with my sister's old syncmaster 730bf and it's working perfectly for a day now. I was wondering if my old monitor's dead or is it repairable? I read some other forums and apparently the inverter's dead and the backlights gone?? I would love to get my monitor back on track as soon as possible. Thank you in advance!

I, obviously, have an S340 Elite. I was thinking about replacing it but then I had a thought; why not just get a replacement front panel for better airflow? Does anyone know if there's anywhere i can buy a replacement front panel with mesh?

Hello there im looking for some replacement feet for my K95 one of them got destroyed in an accident. Ill found several offerings, but nowhere its in stock(including corsairs own website). I live in EU(GER).

So my Motherboard just died. This wouldn't usually be a huge deal, but here's my problem: I'm running a Xeon x5650 on a MSI x58 pro with 16gb of DDR3. That stuff's ancient. However I only got this system a year ago, and with the current DDR4 prices, I'm not exactly enticed to go for current stuff. On the other hand, I'm also not enticed to mindlessly throw more money at ancient and used replacement parts that themselves might fail at any point and leave me at the same point as I'm in now. So here are some of my thoughts: I need a new mobo. That's out of the question Everything else still (probably) works, at least before I went to vacation for two weeks As DDR5 likely won't hit mainstream for another 2-3 years, that wouldn't be worrying either Final note from my side: money itself is no problem. It's just that I'm not enticed to throw most of my current system out. So, if you have any thoughts or recommendations, please let me know.

I have a galaxy s8 and I am very happy with it so far. Battery life is a bit worse now since I bought it but it is still WORLDS better than the phone I had before (galaxy alpha). We all know that phone batteries will die eventually and that we need to replace them when this happens. This got me thinking. Can I just keep on replacing the battery of my phone every 2 years or so and just use it for as long as possible? I know that other parts can degrade like the flash memory and the processor, but is it possible to keep the phone working for, lets say 5-6 years? The reason I'm asking isnt just because I'm a greedy bastard, but because I'm so used to seeing people having the same gaming pc for like 7-8 years and it works completely fine. I'm just curious since I'm happy with this phone and I dont see any reason to buy a new one yet.

hi , dear forum , i would like to replace the worn-out earpuds of my beloved hyperx stinger but ofter a little research online i found that its not possible but i found site that sells some compatible earpuds (https://wickedcushions.com/collections/gaming-ear-pads/products/upgraded-gaming-earpads-black) .can you help me ? thank you

I recently incurred some damage to my LG V20. The glass over the cameras broke, and through that, the lenses on both of my rear facing cameras were damaged. Both cameras still function, but take terrible pictures due to said damage. I haven't seen very good reviews for the people on amazon and ebay who sell replacements. Do any of you know a place where GOOD replacements can be found for the LG V20's normal and wide angle rear facing cameras? Thanks in advance!

Solution: This is awkward but I have been testing my laptop whole time without bottom cover screwed back in. And this was the problem, probably some connections needed pressure from screws and now everything is fine. Hello guys, I have performed HDD swap for new SSD on my Acer Aspire ES1-311 laptop. During disassembly I disconnected the battery by pushing button (showed in pictures) directly on my mobo and then unplugged the cables from the motherboard. Then I proceeded to switch the drive, repaste the CPU cooler, clean the dust etc… After plugging back to DC and installing fresh Windows and drivers directly from Acer's site everything works just fine, except for the battery. It is detected by the Windows, I can get readings from HWMonitor (13V, cca 18% battery wear) and even build in battery status LED is on. But when I unplug the charger, laptop instantly switches off. At that point I tried switching back to the old HDD but the same thing is happening and as a bonus I can't get to recovery partition because "laptop couldn't load it, try contacting your administrator". It probably got messed up during partition cloning or year ago when I made another partition for my dual boot. I am probably accepting the fact that the battery has died, but it seems so weird because it was disconnected for the whole time and I didn't bend it/heat it/smashed screwdriver into it and the timing, that some of the cells died just now is very unlikely. Before that event battery had no problem with 5 hours of work. I would be really grateful for any suggestion or advice, as I still hope, that this is software/firmware issue. Methods I tried: Remove battery -> turn on -> turn off -> reconnect battery Check wear level and powercfg - this looks fine Messing with power management settings Installing all drivers And probably some more, that I cannot find links to right now. Thank you for any advice Edit: Link to photos

I have the 212 Evo and an 8700k and as you would expect it gets kinda noisy when my CPU is around 80-100% usage (as you would expect). I'm thinking of replacing the fans but I'm not sure whats best/even compatible I did have a spare cooler master case fan that I had spare but it wasn't compatible with the bracket. I'm not looking for extreme performance insane overclocks I would just like 2 quiet fans that look nice. and before anyone recommends me a bigger cooler see picture

Hello, I'd like to ask if you guys know a trustworthy site where I could buy a battery replacement into my Sony XZs. I pretty much don't like how fast it drains itself, it barely lasts 3-4 hours when I use it with its 'strongest' built-in battery saver function. (The one which limits FPS to ~10) I have found a site Witrigs, but as I haven't ever seen it before, I am not really sure if I should trust them. They say they are selling the 'Original' batteries, which would be the key. I'd like to buy a battery that lasts long and can hold 2900MAh. Thank you very much in advance!

My brother and I built this PC about a year and a half ago and we wanted to switch the case for a different case we already own. I just wanted to make sure that this will work and everything will fit. This is the case we are using right now https://pcpartpicker.com/product/cTQypg/corsair-case-200r (Corsair - 200R ATX Mid Tower Case). And this is the case we wanted to swap it to https://pcpartpicker.com/product/DKmLrH/antec-case-ninehundred (Antec - Nine Hundred ATX Mid Tower Case) Any help would be appreciated This is the the parts list for the computer https://pcpartpicker.com/list/pTfvnn

Alright so this is the continuation from the last post where I now have a replacement. (last post here:) Can any of ya'll test what's on this video that I just recorded and see if you have the same thing? (Sorry for weird ass angle and shitty quality :P) For the people who might not understand what i'm trying to show here is that when i slam my mouse down with a tiny bit of force, it clicks whatever my fingers are on.