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Showing results for tags 'replacement'.
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What are your thoughts on replacing an HDD drive entirely with a 1TB or more SSD drive?
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Hey everyone, I am saving up to upgrade my gaming mouse. I've been using a TteSports Black Element mouse for close to 4 years now and it has served me well.Unfortunately, the left click is slowly becoming finicky (it double clicks) and is slowly pissing me off. Anyway, I was going to buy the Mionix Naos 7000 from Amazon Canada, but they are not stocking it anymore. I don't want to buy it from some third party seller. It's also not available at NCIX or Canada Computers. Now, I'm sad and I'm not really sure what to get as a replacement. Normally, I would just buy something and if I don't like it in a day or two, I'd return it. BUT this is Canada and NCIX/Canada Computers charges a restocking fee if the product isn't defective (simply outrageous). So, in short: suggest a mouse that is similar to the Naos 7000 in terms of sensor awesomeness and size (the shape doesn't necessarily have to be the same). Also, please suggest something that you ACTUALLY USE/OWN YOURSELF. Don't suggest things from internet reviews (I can find those by myself, you know). I have a medium size hand and I palm grip my mouse. Here's the link to my current mouse, if you're interested. I would wholeheartedly recommend it to anyone: http://www.ttesports.com/Mouse/16/BLACK_element/productPage.htm?a=a&g=ftr#.VVZ3D_lVhBc
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The Apple Watch is actually easier to work on than some recent MacBooks. In news that actually surprises me a little, the Apple Watch is actually quite repairable for the things you'd probably need to replace the most - strap, battery and display. Heck, the way the display is removed makes me think that sapphire versions might actually show up (or you can use the parts from the Edition and normal Watch if you so desired). Pretty neat, and in contrast to how Apple tech has been going so far. Of course, since the S1 sits in resin and is sealed up, thats harder to replace. No doubt that a Apple repair program of sorts could do it no problem, maybe even follow through with that rumoured "upgrade" plan, but don't expect it to be easy on your own. http://arstechnica.com/apple/2015/04/ifixit-replacing-the-apple-watchs-battery-is-easy-replacing-the-s1-is-hard/ https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Apple+Watch+Teardown/40655?utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=Apple+Watch+Teardown&utm_content=Apple+Watch+Teardown+CID_e16d099d5d25d6145061643c0c824775&utm_source=CampaignMonitor&utm_term=Apple%20Watch -
Hey guys! Posting for the first time. Been lurking for a long time, though. So, I've got an issue. I have a rather old-ish (note: 5 years) gaming PC, which is finally on the way out. Having my motherboard randomly forget it has certain things built into it, just because... You know, reasons. Unfortunately, the motherboard is way out of warranty. But let's be honest. Who the hell would want an X58 motherboard replaced at this point? Current build: Motherboard: ASUS Rampage III Extreme Processor: Intel Core i7 930 (Overclocked to 4.2GHz) CPU Cooler: Corsair H70 RAM: 24GB Corsair Dominator GT 2000Mhz GPU: EVGA GeForce 980 SC w/ ACX 2.0 Storage: 2x Kingston HyperX 3K 120GB (RAID 0), 4x WD Blue 1TB (RAID 5) PSU: Corsair 1200W (way overkill, I know... but I got it for free, so...) Okay, so some minor background before asking the obvious upgrade recommendation question. I currently just started a gaming channel on YouTube, and have been streaming live gameplay to Twitch.tv since before Twitch was a thing (Justin.tv). I tend to stream at 720p, but have been wanting to stream at 1080p 60fps while gaming at the same. The huge question is, given the circumstances, an upgrade is required. But what? Do I worry about longevity and upgrade potential at this point? I currently have ~$1000 (no less than $800, no more than $1200) to blow on a suitable upgrade. Should I... A) Get a Z97 mobo and the beefiest non-Extreme Edition CPU possible, plus a second GTX 980, to focus on maximixing my current potential or... B ) Get an X99 mobo and fitting processor, spending the leftover on as much RAM as I can fit in there, and worry about "future-proofing" my purchase with potential upgrades in the future? Any input would be appreciated. I'd like to get this system running within the next week, if at all possible. Thanks! -
Hi guys, im looking for a case to replace my bitfenix neos for under $70 and i was wondering if this is a good choice : http://www.amazon.com/Sentey®-Gs-6020-Computer-Removable-Aluminum/dp/B00BW4O4A0/ref=sr_1_165?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1423084201&sr=1-165&keywords=window recommendations are helpful preferably with a side window. Thanks
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I've always wanted to know (and Google hasn't been the biggest help) if you can swap out the TN panel of a desktop monitor with an IPS panel. I have an ASUS VS228H-P and really would like some better contrast as well as viewing angles. Is it possible to swap the panels for less than what the monitor costs or should I just kill this whole idea? Thanks.
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Hey all, Not sure if a Mac question is appropriate, but you all have been helpful before. I recently pulled a hail marry to speed up my ever dieing early 2011 MBP 13". I bought a Kingston SSDnow v300 hoping to speed up the MBP. After installing the drive I got a flashing screen, in sequential order: white, red, green, blue, grey, dark grey, 4 grey sections horizontally, and then many grey sections vertically. I jumped to the forums and someone said they solved it by resetting your SDRAM. Did that, then the screen was black upon turning on and flickered every so often only across the top. I then proceeded to replace the new SSD with the original HDD. Upon restart, the screen followed the same color flashing order, yet at a higher brightness. Does anyone know how I can solve this problem? Or is it time to bust this pain in the *** over my knee? -
Yesterday disaster has struck, my computer was on but unused at the time when there was a series of loud pops, the monitor went blank and suddenly there was smoke coming out of the top of my case. I quickly unplugged the computer and took it outside. There I have learned that it wasn't my entire computer on fire, in fact I could not really spot the problem. I was searching for dead, blown capacitors but i couldn't find any. Only after some searching I have found the source of the smoke, and the smell. There were signs of damage around the cpu socket, the cpu cooler my H220 was also destroyed. The place on the pump block where the wires hook up to it, the pump has "exploded". The wires were bare and the outside with their rubber coating melted away. The unit has also seemed to have spat out an amount of fused together metal and melted plastic, coating and sticking to my ram, as well as coating the area between the cpu socket and the ram with fine metal filings, powder. I have contacted swiftech because I thought that the H220 pump was the one that caused the problem was my cpu cooler, however after further investigation and some emails back and fort, I was told that there is no way the pump would have "spat' out all of that metal. They suggested it is the capacitor that blew. With their help I have found that my motherboard has some damages too, (I guess) and I was told to turn to corsair to get my system replaced. I was toldt it seems like a cascading power surge has fried all components inside. i don't know what would still function, and I am unable to test all of my other parts individually, and I don't want to risk damaging my other PC. What are your opinions on the matter? is it really a pwoer surge that would cause thses issues? Does that capacitor look blown to you guys? How would I go about, is it safe to test the parts from this system in another one?
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Currently i have been using a Razer Ouroboros Wireless/Wired hybrid thing. I have come to hating this thing not because of bad hardware but because of poor build quality and design. Maybe I'm just hard on mice, But this was my first High-end Mouse and its already falling apart after about 11 months.The rechargeable battery for the wireless half is already shot: even at new it didn't last too long, The Textured grip material on the side with my thumb is already wearing off pretty badly, and it sometimes just decides to lose connection to my computer even though its plugged in all the time now. Temporarily i got a Razer Hex for the extra buttons and its Compatible with my Razer Profiles from my other mouse but i need a solid replacement. Can Anyone Suggest a decent mouse (that isn't a Razer) that has at least three Function Buttons (excluding left,right, and middle click)?
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I had been using Logitech 930s for around 5 years and was becoming increasingly frustrated with them and wanted to upgrade. I'd been looking at the Steelseries H Wireless for years and threw a lot of research (including Linus' video) I decided to pull the trigger on that hefty $300 price tag in hopes of ending up with a better headset. I wear a headset upwards of 12 hours a day so they need to be comfortable. The H Wireless is not... I assumed the H Wireless would just be a wireless version of the H9 witch I have warn before and was shocked at how comfortable they where. The H Wireless has far shallower ear pads than the 9H and with there heavy clamping strength means the hard plastic at the bottom of the cups are crushing my ears. I've tried doing some research but can't find any after market ear pads witch I suppose doesn't surprise me all that much but I also can't find any information on weather or not they're compatible with ear pads from other headsets. Has any one out there had the same problem I’m having with the H Wireless and if so, how did you fix it? Or did you? I need to know within a few days so I can decide weather or not to return these. I'm starting to consider the Astro A50s. There audio quality sucks but at least I know they're insanely comfortable.
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Hey everyone, I recently started cleaning up an old Garrard RC80 record player (from the 50's?), but it's missing a cartridge. I've looked around on different forums, but I can't find any information on what cartridge I'd need to replace it. Any help with the cartridge, or any information about the RC80 in general is welcome. Thanks in advance, everyone.
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Hey everyone! Long time fan of the Yotutube channel, and I figured this may be the best place to go for my question. Long story short, I damaged the actual display of my beloved VG248QE. Took it home from a LAN and must've hit a few too many bumps (live in PA, lol). It works perfectly fine besides 3/4 of image on the display being completely corrupted. The are visible cracks within the screen when lit, and just a wide array of random colors everywhere. I'm sure most of you have an idea of what it looks like haha. I've looked all over the internet and cannot find a single place to buy a replacement screen from. Seems like most places deal specifically with laptop/tablet screens. If anyone could point me in the right direction, that'd be great. I've seen these disassembled and it doesn't look to be very tough, I'm kind of a DIY guy anyways so I'd rather just get the part instead of sending to a repair shop. Thanks! -David
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Hello, I'm sure this is a common problem, but I haven't been able to find anything that tells how to do this. So what is happening is the memory foam headband (this piece for further description http://g-ecx.images-amazon.com/images/G/01/electronics/detail-page/B003VANOFY_G930_memory_foam_lg.jpg) Is beginning to peel, along with the ear pads. I know the ear pads would be a breeze to replace. What I want to know is how to remove the afore mentioned headband piece. I have found a headband piece from the g430 on ebay that looks similar the problem is taking apart the headset to get the old one out. If you need pictures or anything I'd be happy to take and post them. Thanks Nopin
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Hello I need to replace my 7950 due to a defect. I still had warranty on the card but I can't get a replacement for that specific card. Instead, I can get a card that is around the price of the 7950 when I bought it (€250). Any suggestions? -
About a year ago I dropped my galaxy s4 and boom, the screen was destroyed. I had just rooted it the week before, and the unlock symbol appeared while booting. There was no way to remove this symbol, and I was afraid that my dad would get a $700 bill in the mail, I didn't send it in for the insurance. I tried to just replace the glass, but the replacement glass wasn't really that good, and the sensitivity was off. Instead, I purchased an htc one m7 on ebay for 280 dollars. I just looked online and saw that the replacement screen and digitizers are only 100 dollars now. Would it be a good idea to buy one of these replacements? Are they going to be official, or a cheap knock off? How easy would it be? Thanks!
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My news train doesn't make stops for anything (except washroom breaks, can't be living too dangerously) but while I was scouring the inter webs I came across this little tidbit. HTC is going to stop selling the One M8 in some areas and replace it with the M8s which carries a 615 64-bit processor in place of the original Snapdragon 801. This seems...bizarre to me. Investing additional R/D into a middle tier device instead of just slashing the price of your old one? Apple usually sets bad precedents, but their new policy of selling the last generation phone for less (and sometimes with fixed storage/colour options) doesn't seem like a bad way to go. Burn through any excess inventory and offer last years flagship with the same specs for less, for those who just don't need a 1000 dollar phone each year. But, c'est la vie. Here it is. http://www.gsmarena.com/htc_one_m8s_with_slower_cpu_to_replace_the_one_m8_soon-news-11398.php
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Does anyone know a good replacement for Windows Multipoint? Im trying to set up my desktop so that more than 1 user can use it at a time. The reason I don't want to get windows server and multipoint is that it costs a several hundred dollars at which point I might as well just build more desktops. I was thinking of using multiseat in linux while virtualizing windows on each client, or if I could somehow set up a virtual desktop in windows with separate inputs and have them automatically launch onto the other monitors. Any help would be appreciated thanks.
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I just killed my r9 290x (the geto mod for a aio (uneven pressure which cracked the gpu die)) I can get another one for 200$ or I can get a gtx 770 for the same price and for an extra 75 I can get a gtx 780. my plans are to go 4k eventually (sometime soon) and was wondering which of the cards I should get because everything else is basically out of my price range
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Hey guys, never really used this forum before, but I finally have a good reason to. I'm planning to replace the graphics card in my prebuilt ASUS M51BC. It came stock with an AMD-FX 8300 8-core and an NVIDIA GTX 650. I've been considering upgrading to a GTX 760, but since I've never really opened my computer up before, I don't know what to do or what to expect. I'm not sure if the power supply will handle it, if the motherboard is supported, and I'm also confused on all the different models listed here on NVIDIA's website: http://www.geforce.com/hardware/desktop-gpus/geforce-gtx-760/buy-gpu Thanks to anyone who can give me a head start here, or even recommendations toward another card -
After 8 or so years of service, my family's shared computer has finaly died. RIP in peace. My mother has been looking around for a replacement. She is pretty dead set on getting a $400 to $500 laptop but I'm trying to convince her that a desktop would be cheaper, more powerful, and more practical for their purposes (the computer would remain at the same desk for its lifetime). I told her I could build a desktop in that pricerange if she paid for the parts. I did my research and would like to do a mini-itx build in the coolermaster elite130 with an AMD APU because my brother will most likely be doing some gaming. Since I am a Intel CPU and nvidia GPU fanatic, I know basicly nothing about AMD CPUs/APUs. So I need some help picking out an APU that will work best for them (4+ cores preferably, decent gaming performance (20-30 fps on minecraft/borderlands2/gta4/other old games), cheap). Also I know its a huge help to have fast RAM with an APU and I'm not exactly sure what that means (higher clock speed, lower latency, something else, combination of all three?). I have some left over ram I won in a contest. http://www.ncixus.com/products/?sku=99169&vpn=AX3U1600W4G9-DMV&manufacture=AData%20Technology I was wondering if this would do. Any help would be greatly apreciated.
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so i have had one of these for quite a while and put up with what i thought was a broken switch for my left arrow key: http://gaming.coolermaster.com/en/products/keyboards/quickfiretk/ i have just replaced the switch for the key and it still does not work! is there any thing i can do to get this key working?
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So my R.A.T 7 mouse just gave up on me and I need a quick replacement without having to spend too much. I would like something that's the same when it comes to the weight as I prefer a more weighted mouse. Any suggestions are much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Hey community Name's Darkr... And I have a question===What next computer parts should I get? I am getting Sennheiser G4ME Zero or Sennheiser HD 598 (need help with that choice too) Anyways, here is my hardware: MSi Amd Radeon HD 6900 Series Cosair Force 3 SSD A... Disk... With random model numbers.... Razer Ouroboros S.T.R.I.K.E 5 Gaming keyboard Intel Core i5-2500k CPU @ 2.30GHz Samsung SyncMaster B2440 24" (discontinued) A Good power supply Good DVD... thing... No liquid/special cooling Anything I missed out? I have Windows 7 (yeah!!!) and I am gonna use my PC mainly for gaming, maybe sometimes rendering (CPU )
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Linus did a review on the 'AuzenTech X-FI Hometheater HD Sound Card' a few years back. I know the card is old now in terms of 'technology years' but is there a better card out there today that does what this card does. Because I still have one and don't know wether it was a good idea in the end holding on to it. or if even onboard sound now does what this card can do. Any thoughts?
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Where do I go to find Hyper 212 EVO fan clips? I have a hyper 212 plus where I've lost the metal clips (that never worked properly for me albeit) and want to use plastic ones from the 212 evo. My friend has the evo and from my testing it works on my 212+ heatsink(it's exactly the same as the evo) Any know where to buy the EVO clips in the UK?
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