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So on my razer huntsman v2 analog the button for stop/play music suddenly stopped working, so i reset it the same way the instructions say on the support website, now my whole keyboard stopped working it only glows and it doesnt register any typing. It does show up to synapse, but when i change the color of the keyboard nothing happens. Also I want to say, yes i have the right drivers and the right firmware.

Hi, I need to replace my mouse (I'm currently using a mouse from a pre-built from a 10+ years ago) the two mice I’m looking at are the 502 for £29.99 or the Basilisk for £39.99 which is the better mouse for the value as I want to get into playing keyboard and mouse gaming?

the CPU is reaching temperatures of 100C and above under load? Razer Blade 16 i9-13950HX/32GB/2TB SSD/RTX4090 16GB/16″ Dual UHD+FHD+ MINI-LED https://zonetech.ma/product/razer-blade-16-i9-13950hx-32gb-2tb-ssd-rtx4090-16gb-16″-dual-uhdfhd-mini-led/

I'm having this issue with my keyboard where it double-hits keys. I've had FOUR of these keyboards from various RMAs and it's still having the issue. The fix from Razer is to update the firmware, but that only fixes it for a day or so and it starts back to doing it. I keep my keyboards very clean, I'm certain it's not due to dirt. While the keyboard can be used wirelessly, I usually just keep it wired to my computer. I've used the same cable with other keyboards, including razer keyboards, and not had any issues with them. I really like the keyboard, it feels great and I like the flexibility of using bluetooth, usb wireless or usb c, as well as managing the RGB etc without external software, but I can't type on it because it double-types several letters. Razer has been useless, 4 RMAs and no resolution. Is there any other fix I'm not thinking of? Or do I have to bite the bullet and buy another keyboard? In that case, are there recommendations for others that have the same feature set? Thank you.

Thought I'd share this in case anyone else has this issue. I had this issue where my Razer Naga Pro's scroll wheel would just not work properly, it would jump all over, I'd scroll down and it would go back up, etc. I had written it off until I found this reddit post (https://www.reddit.com/r/razer/comments/103ttkq/solution_for_scroll_wheel_jumping_issues_with/) which fixed it, though I might need to redo it later. Apparently whoever designed Razer mice also worked for Nintendo in the NES days since the fix IS TO PRETEND YOUR MOUSE IS AN NES CARTRIDGE! Seriously, what god damn black magic is this? Compressed air didn't work, but make a good seal around the scroll wheel area and blow hard a few times and the scroll wheel is back to normal!

Hello LTT community, I need help with choosing a mouse. I RMA'd my Glorious Model O 2 Wireless because of some skipping/stuttering issue and now I need to decide between GPX2 and Viper V2 Pro. The retailer where I did the RMA only has these 2 brands as options so ofcourse I have to make a pick. I tried the DeathAdder and I just don't like the shape and it feels weird in my hands. I had a viper mini before but I think my hand is too big for that. Right now I have a SteelSeries Rival 3 and it's just so hard to find a consistent grip for FPS games. I mainly play Apex Legends so I need a stable mouse that I'm also able to track with. I was leaning towards Razer Viper V2 Pro a lot, but the issue I had on my Viper Mini was when I scrolled down it would scroll up, so I rma'd it and got the steelseries instead (they were out of stock on viper mini's so I had to pick another). A year later I bought a second hand Glorious Model O 2 Wireless for 40 euro (I was freaking shocked) but the owner claimed it was in mint condition and no defects so I was like ok. It was bought less than 6 months ago so it's still under warranty which is why I was able to send it to RMA. Anyways, I really liked the Glorious Model O 2 shape but the holes kinda bothered me. I have tried the regular Viper in the store and it's ok in my hand, I haven't had a chance to try GPX2 shape though. So what I'm looking for is just quality. At this point I just want a mouse that lasts, I don't want to risk double clicking or scroll wheel issues. I've found threads with both of these mice having similar issues or even their own known issues so now I'm just looking for opinions as I'm very indecisive. I'll post my grip type below... Hand measurements: 20x11 centimeters. My grip is somewhere inbetween claw and fingertip I think, the only part of my palm touching the mouse is my pinky knuckle.

I've had a quite bad experience with the Razer support team. I made several tickets for my mouse issue, and every time a new support person responded with a copy-paste reply, then disappeared. No matter how many times you send the logs, problem proofs, every time a new person asks the same shit. They never read the full case. Problem: My +Basilisk V3 pro randomly disappeared from Synapse3 which connected through Razer Mouse Dock Pro. This issue occurred when the profile switched too quickly. Pooling rates are different in the profiles. When I open games, synapse3 changes the profile to gaming which pooling rate is 8k. If I move to any other window it changes the profile to a normal profile which pooling rate is 1k. The problem starts from here. If I frequently switch windows between games and others, either the mouse cursor is lost or synapse3 fails to sync. So If I power off the mouse and turn it back on, the mouse cursor will back again but synapse3 won't detect the mouse until a system reboot. But If I unplug the dock pro and replug again synapse3 can detect both and sync. This is the gaming side issue. Sometimes I saw the hyper-scrolling button not working, it's not shifting the mode. So If I open synapse3, it shows Dock Pro is there but no mouse. Solution: re-plug the dock pro. So I posted on Reddit, here is the link. People are mad about their support. It's not only me. After the Reddit post, their support team woke up but didn't know how long would be active. If a well-known brand like Razer provides these types of support, we should raise our voice. How was your experience????

Since a few days I get this really terrible echoey room sound effect. I tried disabling such things on Realtek audio program but there wasn't any option to activate any in the first place. I don’t know what to do any more please help. I'm using windows 10 home on 2021 razer blade 15 advanced (RZ09-0367)

Finishing up a mod for my Razer Huntsman Mini. I have been sick and tired of wires on my desk for a very long time, and technology to replace all cables does exist now, so I figured this was the time to make my dreams real. The basic idea is to attach a wireless charge mat to the bottom of my keyboard, and place Qi charging pads underneath my desk mat. I have already cut a piece of foam to hide my Logitech Powerplay mat, so I had a good idea that this would work. In practice, this idea loses its legs fairly quickly, because you not only have to attach a wireless charging receiver, but also a battery and some way for the keyboard to transmit key presses in a mostly latency free way. Oh, and I really didn't want to wind up spending more money on this mod than the keyboard itself was worth, and ideally I didn't want to spend more than about $50. Finding a suitable Qi charging receiver was actually really easy, apparently these exist as phone accessories for people with phone that don't have wireless charging. You can find ones like this one I used on Amazon for about $13. My solution was this- using a Raspberry Pi Zero W, I installed VirtualHere server, a USB over LAN software that's actually free so long as you're only using one device, and attached the Pi W to a large dual-cell battery bank. I wound up using this one which I already had lying around, but a newer one with USB C charging could be beneficial. The most important thing here is that the battery bank continuously provides power. Some battery banks switch over from the cell to the USB charging port, resulting in the Raspberry Pi turning off and rebooting every time you remove it from the wireless charging mat. Next I cut a hole in the bottom of a wooden prototype case that I could pass the wireless receiver's USB plug through. Finally, I cut two holes into my desk mat in the spots I most commonly use my keyboard. One hole was cut in the center for typing, and the other in the top left for gaming. Quick note here, the angles that the Huntsman Mini normally allow you to adjust the keyboard from 6 degrees to 9 degrees (nice), but I found that I needed the keyboard raised at a 15 degree angle to fit every part underneath the faceplate. I don't really notice the difference, but some people might, so I wanted to let you know. The final step was officially putting the thing together. I unscrewed the face plate of the Huntsman Mini, which was remarkably easy, and then I had a fabricator model and 3D print a new case for the keyboard. The final result looks absolutely fabulous, with 4 screw mounting points in the corners and lot of open space for placing each component. The purple model is one of the prototypes, but the internal design is exactly the same as the final product. Once I had every component in place, I marked out empty spaces that I could fill with cheap metal tire weights like these to add some more weight to the keyboard. Make sure to cover all of the exposed metal with tape so that the circuitry doesn't short. The last thing anyone wants next to their fingers is a lithium ion battery that's shorting out! (Fun fact, depending on how you place the weights, you can create your own cable channels for the USB wires that need to be run. I don't know how to solder, or the internals would be much more space efficient.) With all of the internal parts placed, the last thing to do is close everything up! This post mostly focuses on the physical mod, but setting up the Raspberry Pi with VirtualHere is really simple. They have a guide posted here for how to install the server program on a Linux machine, and guides for how to automatically start a program on boot exist all over the internet. One last thing to take care of is to install the VirtualHere client on your windows machine, and follow this guide on how to set a program to start on boot in Windows 10 so that VirtualHere is detecting keyboard inputs before you have to log in. (A keyboard isn't worth much if you can't log into Windows with it lol) Once your software is configured, you're basically good to go! The best thing about this is that using USB over LAN is pretty seamless as long as you don't plan on taking your keyboard out of your house. Plus, now your keyboard has a computer inside of it, so the options for taking work on the go are pretty cool as well! And to address concerns over latency, 2.4ghz signals are already what most wireless peripherals use to transmit, and in games I have noticed no discernable delay between using a wired keyboard instead of this wireless solution. Otherwise, that's it guys! I added a small LED that illuminates to show when the keyboard is charging, and some small marks on my mouse mat to act as guides for setting the keyboard down, and the mod was complete. This mod could theoretically work for any keyboard in existence and only costs about $40 so long as you already have a couple of USB cables laying around. Obviously there are some improvements to be made, such as using fast charging Qi pads, adapters, and a battery bank that accepts USB C charging, as well as a way to check the battery percentage of the keyboard, but each of those add-ons adds cost, and the idea here was to create this mod for as little extra money as possible. I think I was pretty successful, but let me know what you think!

Hello. I've recently built a PC for my dad, we luckily live in the same house. We are troubleshooting a mic issue. The mic works with his Xbox Series X fine but won't work with the PC at all. The mic isn't picking up very well. We have tried changing its gain in Windows and in other applications, trying different volumes on my side (receiving) and it either doesn't pick up or the volume is so low at the end that you can't hear it. Testing leads it to say anywhere between 3% to 15% at full input volume on windows. His specs are below. GIGABYTE B650M DS3H Ryzen 5 7600x (I disabled the integrated graphics for AMD and Nvidia program issues) NH-D15 32gb (2x16gb) CL32 5600mhz T-Force Vulcan 3060 12gb ASUS Tuf Nvidia WD Black 850X 2TB (Boot Drive) Samsung 990 Pro 4TB (Steam Drive) 1200W 80+ Gold Rosewill PSU The problem is with a Razer Kraken THX Tournament Edition Headset mic. We have used the included USB dongle and a splitter (into the front and back ports). When using the USB THX dongle we did use Razer Synapse and still had no luck. I have also made sure to check BIOs and utility versions for them to be up to date. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

So I have a Razer Basilisk V3 that has been randomly disconnecting for some time now. Sometimes it won't even reconnect and I have to unplug and replug it to connect again. I've tried about everything, swapped out the unit for a new one, different USB ports, adjusted the power management for the device and usb hub in device manager, and updated my motherboard BIOS to multiple iterations to no avail. My setup is an ASUS X570 Tuf Gaming mobo, 5800x, 3090FE, 32gb 3600mhz GSkill, 850w EVGA G3 PSU, 6 system fans with corsair H150I capellix cooler, basically everything's RGB and no overclocks save for the memory profile. At this point I'm wondering if my PSU is defective. It was replaced by EVGA once for causing random reboots, so maybe this unit is having issues as well? Am I barking up the wrong tree or would it be beneficial to upgrade to something like a 1000w PSU?

When I built my first PC when I was 15 my father gave a a Razer Diamondback Plasma Limited Edition and I have been using it for 9 years now, and the mouse itself is almost 20 years old. And don't get me wrong it does everything I need it to for gaming, working, etc. But I kinda want to replace it now and keep it stored somewhere as it's a cool piece of older tech. But I'd like to replace it with the new Diamondback as I like the shape and feel of the mouse yet I can't find one anywhere to buy where I live (Montenegro). I looked online and didn't really see many for sale, does anyone know where I could get one?

I'm looking to get a Rode PodMic or a HyperX Quadcast X as a replacement of my current Razer Seiren Mini. I'm finding it pretty hard to find some good comparisons of the 2 mics online so I thought I'd ask here. Thanks in advance

Hello there! I have the BlackWidow V3 keyboard, for around a year. few months ago it started to have this weird problem of which i didnt find a solution online. Some keys sometimes double print, sometime not reacting but the WEIRD thing is that its changing between the keys! randomly! it could be one key then 10 seconds later be another one Now, I cleaned the keyboard (removed the caps and removed dust and whatever) but the problem is the same. anyone has any idea how to solve this? thanks, me

So recently my headphones broke and I'm searching to buy a new headphones up to 40 Euro and these are my options: https://www.instar-informatika.hr/market/40/offer/?catef=1699&minPrice=26&maxPrice=45&pr=1 https://www.links.hr/hr/slusalice-010706#/specFilters=1756!#-!11711&prFilter=From-12!-#!To-70 https://www.jeftinije.hr/L3/353/racunalna-oprema/slika-i-zvuk/slusalice-i-mikrofoni?craz=BZ13Z40 Razer kraken X and Razer BlackShark V2 X caught my eye on the 3rd link 35-40 euro HyperX cloud stinger 2 core on 2nd link 29 Eur Redragon H848 IRE PRO for 30 euro I could go up to 50 euro to buy Asus Tuf H3 or H1 on 1st link There's also Razer Kraken v3 X USB in store nearby for 50 euro

As the title suggest I bought a second hand turret and it came without the charger. I've had it just laying around my room without being able to use or charge it. Does anyone know how and where I can find a replacement charger? Or am I out of luck with my purchase. (I tried contacting razer support and they didn't help me at all because the model is coming to "end of cycle")

So let me first and foremost state that I am a razer fanboy. I have everything razer related, from the shirts to the chair, to the peripherals and laptops, i have everything razer. So to say that Razer messed up big, is no understatement. Nov 7 Razer pushed out an synapse update to where they tweaked with the audio spatial settings for nearly all razer headsets. What did it do? Made the audio unbearable to the point where it sounded like high squeals and muddy in others with barely much bass in some cases. I personally have a blackshark v2 pro. It was advertised with THX 7.1 SPATIAL. As seen in the link here. Now i'm aware people will say headphones won't have 7.1, and I'm aware of that but before they were pretty good and mimicing it and even windows would see it as a 7.1 when you configured the headset. Now since nov 7 and even nov 16 (when another update was pushed) The headsets for nearly all razer products from what is seen on reddit are junk. People go and complain about how the swap from stereo to thx spatial doesn't work or in my case it only sounds slightly louder. You don't have directionality anymore. I mean when i play apex now it just overwhelming to try listening for steps when you can't even tell if its on your left or right or what not. I have a set of tiamat v2 that i'm gonna try that also had 7.1 (it actually has 7 mini speakers in each cup) and see if those are any better compared to my blackshark now. But really i wanted to bring awareness to the fact razer doesn't seem to listen to us, nor just roll back the sound changes they did. But also looking possibly for suggestions for a good gaming headset (i have seperate stuff for music and all), so suggestions are welcome. Thanks Also really would like for linus to see this or even someone from LMG to see this and do testing to see if the synapse updates really did screw with the headsets and audio devices.

Hi all, I recently got a Razer Blade 14 as an RMA replacement for my Razer Book since they don't make that model anymore (broken display cable on the Razer Book). The battery on this new Razer Blade laptop dies extremely quickly. Approximately 1% per minute while doing basic web browsing or just idling. Why is the battery draining so fast? What can I do to fix it? I have a 3 hour lecture and the laptop can't even make it through one class. Also I am running the latest Firmware that was released which was supposed to help with battery life -- it didn't. Any help is greatly appreciated

I know there have been these types of post before, but most of them have been pre-HP HyperX, now that its under HP, I wanna know are the Clouds 2 still better than the BS V2 X. Also the BS are way cheaper If i get them in the Razer Battle Bundle.

I just got this AIO on clearance for $90. Just wondering if this is a good/trustworthy AIO. My temps are okay.

I currently have a Razer Strider mouse mat and wondered if it would be safe to build my PC on it?

So i picked up a used laptop on fb marketplace. Cost me 50$. Guy was having issues didnt want to spend money fixing. So the machine boots up properly, but i cant seem to use the 3080 gpu. It has both AMD radeon integrated graphics and the 3080. In device manager it shows the 3080, but when i try to install the drivers it either just doesn't, or errors out. I cant launch nvidia control panel either. Please help Its a razer blade 14. Ryzen 9 5900hx, 16gb ram, 3080, from 2021.

So as the title says I've had my Razer Viper Ultimate nearly a year but it keeps on disconnecting deems to be a somewhat common issue but I was wondering if there was another fix for it other than the fix I have. my fix is fan control's at relativly high speeds which I'm guessing of a random solution in my head the usb is getting crazy hot. but if anyone has a better solution I would love to be able to use my mouse at waaaay lower fan speeds

A while ago I had some money to spend and because I was (yes was) a big razer fanboi, i blew it on a gaming chair Iskur, a deathstalker V2 pro (€250), a Barracuda pro(€300), fancontroller and a argb controller. the chair came with a kickass webcam (KIYO pro) which i barely use but which works fine. Sadly I'm having issues with pretty much all of it and I was wondering what other people think of this stuff. Barracuda X (failx2) Pieces of plastic popped off and i decided to disregard because i was a big fanboi as i said and i have a big head (which possibly lead to the breakage.) Also the first one was replaced already because of being faulty (bad mic i think) before that after having a really good experience with the razer CS. So it was the actually the second barracuda X i have owned. It will not always detect from startup, I very often had to reseat the dongle to have it pop up. Barracuda pro This also has the detection 'problem.' But waaay worse: It seems to have intermittend grounding or faulty soldering of some sort. Lately it'll have cracks and pops and sometimes sound like I'm in gusty wind of sorts with an old headset. Deathstalker v2 pro This is the real disasterpiece about which I've been tirelessly been back and forth with Razer CS and which just isn't going anywhere. Not a lot bad can be said about the CS-team at razer but that's hardly an excuse for a product that just does not work. Connection (especially when gaming) is poor at best. Intermittend drops, delayed responses. Wired it works alright but well yea i couldve spent a lot less for a wired keyboard Iskur gaming chair This thing is great! omg i love it. Conclusion: Well either I'm just unlucky or there's something to be said about Razers design philosophy and/or QC. I went into this buying some higher tier peripherals and i couldn't be more disappointed, even thinking that my money would've been better spent on some B tier crap, that way i couldve just easily replaced them and wouldn't have to feel too bad about it.

Razer Huntsman [RZ03-0252] opto-mechanical keyboard. I have been using this keyboard for the past 4.5 years. The keyboard is not getting detected on my PC but is getting detected on other systems which includes other laptops & desktops. Checked on both, a system with Razer driver ‘Synapse’ pre-installed & on multiple systems without any pre-installed drivers. Device was detected & worked normally in both cases. Tried plugging the keyboard in different USB ports on the motherboard & the front USB port - did not work in either case. The device is not working even in BIOS, which is before the OS is loaded, so that would mean that Windows is not causing the issue. Also tested in a secondary OS by installing Ubuntu, did not work even there. The keyboard is rated 5V-500mA. I have a Samsung portable SSD which is rated 5V-900mA. The SSD is working fine with the motherboard. So, it means that there shouldn’t be any issues with the power draw. Other keyboards - a basic membrane keyboard & a mechanical keyboard (borrowed from a friend) works fine on my PC. I am unable to deduce the cause of this issue.