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Tech Enthusiasts, I recently stumbled upon a deeply concerning report from Igor’s Lab, which conducted an extensive material test on AIO radiators. The findings are alarming: the Barrow Dabel 28b Slim 120mm radiator, among others, was found to contain significant amounts of lead and other substandard materials. This revelation raises serious health and safety concerns for all of us in the PC building community. The report, titled “The big radiator material test: Between promise, reality and the forbidden - Water Cooling tested more in Detail! | Part 1,” delves into the materials used by six well-known manufacturers, revealing discrepancies between what is advertised and the actual content of these radiators. The investigation was prompted by reports of clogged water cooling components and unexplained corrosion, leading to a thorough analysis of the materials used. From the source: "First of all: There is no copper “H90”. An addition of 10% brass (as in the case of Bykski) is NOT copper, but still an alloy, i.e. brass. Brass CuZN10, to be precise. Incidentally, it is interesting that I measured exactly this value. Just like the brass “H62” (correctly CuZn38) of the pre-chambers, where I then (logically) arrive at 38% zinc content, which corresponds to 62% copper content and which can suddenly be called brass again in marketing." What’s perplexing is the lack of coverage this issue has received from tech YouTubers, who are often at the forefront of discussing tech-related concerns. One must wonder, why is there a silence from tech influencers on such a critical matter? Is it a lack of awareness, or are there other factors influencing the discourse? The role of tech influencers is not only to review and recommend products but also to inform and protect their audience from potential hazards. It’s imperative that we question this gap in communication and encourage a dialogue that could safeguard the health of our community. As we seek answers and accountability, let’s ensure that we’re not only consumers but also informed advocates for safety and transparency in the tech industry. I urge you to read the full report from Igor’s Lab and join me in calling for greater coverage and discussion on this pressing issue Sources https://www.igorslab.de/en/the-big-radiator-material-test-between-promise-reality-and-prohibition-water-cooling-on-the-test-bench-part-1/
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Summary Igor's Lab tested eight popular water cooling radiators and found that the claims made by manufacturers were incorrect. Quotes My thoughts Disappointing to hear about this from at least EK. In EK's case it seems its a marketing choice on how they represent the material. At this time Igor's Lab seems to be assuming this was not on purpose by any of the manufacturers but I am very interested to see how they respond. Sources https://www.tomshardware.com/pc-components/cooling/half-of-tested-pc-watercoolers-dont-use-the-premium-materials-advertised-like-copper-report (quoted source) https://www.igorslab.de/en/the-big-radiator-material-test-between-promise-reality-and-prohibition-water-cooling-on-the-test-bench-part-1/8/ (actual Report)
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Interesting article, seems that half the brands sell copper rads but deliver brass instead https://www.tomshardware.com/pc-components/cooling/half-of-tested-pc-watercoolers-dont-use-the-premium-materials-advertised-like-copper-report?utm_medium=social&utm_campaign=socialflow&utm_content=tomsguide&utm_source=facebook.com
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Hi i have a question that might be dumb. But i have the MSI MPG Velox 100R case. It says it supports 3 front 140mm fans but only a 360 front radiator. So if it can have 3 140 fans why can't it have a 420 rad? is this a dumb question? T~T the radiator im wanting is the arctic liquid freezer iii which is 458mm length and the MSI MPG Velox 100R case is 474x231x490mm in size
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Hi all, Im using lian li dynamic evo o11 case Lcd galahad 2 aio. I made push pull but seems screws are too short to attach fans to rad with bracket on top. Can anyone point me what lenght screws I need and link maybe? Location: UK
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hey guys i need your help with the ram i should choose for my built. the issue is - i already purchased the pop air mini fractal case and the lian li GA2T24B Galahad II Trinity 240 AIO. and because its a low case im afraid the ram will interfere with the radiator... i still checking this issue but if you have any info about it or maybe a suggestions what can i do so i can avoid this problem ty so much. also any low ram sticks will be great. ty so much. https://www.fractal-design.com/products/cases/pop/pop-mini-air/ https://lian-li.com/product/galahad-ii-trinity/ also the motherboard i also purchased. https://www.asus.com/motherboards-components/motherboards/tuf-gaming/tuf-gaming-b760m-plus/ ty for your help
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- fractal design
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i just want to know from people that actually have this case what the exact measurment of the rad "pit" are. does anyone manage to fit a 420 rad especially a 420 aio rad (capellix or artic) inside it ? i just want to save a few bucks by going p6 instead of the masdive p8
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- case
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Hello people, I have a problem with my radiator screwholes.. I have a lian li Galahad 360 aio, but the screw holes are not holding up anymore. I wanted to try and buy 1mm larger screws but I’m afraid to hit the parts of the radiator where the fluid comes tru. Since this AIO.. well, it’s pretty good, it would be a shame to change it, it’s working flawlessly still. Do you have a solution that can help me out?
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Hello guys, does anyone know if the NZXT H9 Elite case supports the NZXT Kraken X63 RGB 280mm? I want to use my precious AIO and mount it on the top of the case but I'm not sure if the case supports that size. Thanks in advance!
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Hi all! Just got the rads for my second ever water cooled build, 3x Hardware Labs Nemesis 420 GTXs, and was surprised to see a bunch of reddish/orange stuff down the ports. I'm aware that all rads need to be flushed to remove flux and other manufacturing residue, but this seems a bit weird? It's been a few years since my last build, but I don't recall the rads I used then (EK CoolStream XE 360, Hardware Labs Nemesis 280GTS XFLOW) looking so dirty. The reddish/orange rust/corrosion looking stuff in particular is concerning to me. In each rad one of the ports (the more recessed one) looks a lot worse, with much more orange stuff. The other one has some orange, but mostly just silver drops that I assume are flux or some other manufacturing gunk. I see a lot of posts elsewhere answering similar questions saying it's normal, but the reasoning fluctuates wildly. Most say it's just normal copper oxidation but then proceed to say that would be green where this looks more like iron rust (red/orange). I guess it starts reddish and changes to green over time? I got all 3 rads brand new from the same vendor and they all look more or less the same. The boxes were pretty dusty like they've sat around a long time. One other strange thing was the specs on the back of the box had one line covered up with black tape. I took the tape off and saw the covered up line says "Custom Dark Matter™ high quality finish", which is what they list on the HWLabs site. The rads do not have the same textured finish shown on the HWLabs site. It's a very smooth, matte black. That's not really an issue for me, but I do find it odd and it makes me wonder if these are old inventory or something? TL:DR; Do these look like normal ports for brand new, unflushed rads? PS: Sorry that the focus is completely off. Phone will not focus inside the port with enough distance to shine light in so you can actually make out what's in there.
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Hello. I was wondering if having one 360mm radiator would obstruct another 360mm radiator on the top. would having a 280mm radiator on top and a 360mm radiator on the front be a better idea?
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I have an stock rear fan set as exhaust and deepcool gamerstorm 240 mm aio whose fans are set as intake. How should I change this to get better thermals. I plan to buy 3 additional fans and fix it in the front as intake and change the aio as exhaust.
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Please rate my setup with constructive ideas to improve. Design was to allow for 100% usage of the CPU and GPU for crypto mining as well as small enough to take while traveling for work. Its a bit heavy at around 33.6 lbs but thermals are great (55C max while mining). Loud!! Thermaltake 100 case, Alphacool Monster 120mm rad + generic 120mm rad in back, i7-12700k, AMD 6800XT Sapphire Nitro+ with Alphacool waterblock, D5 Swiftech pump with Alphacool Block, EK CPU waterblock, ASUS Mini ITX Z690 motherboard, 32GB ddr4 Gskill RGB, and 5000RPM 120mm Server Fans for cooling. Custom temp gauge for water temps and PWM fan speed controller.
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I'm starting to wish a little that I can go back in time and choose a different pump/res combo and radiators. The Darkside Cross-Flow radiators are proving to be a little cumbersome to work with because they are dictating what the loop order and fan intake/exhaust flow has to be. But my main issue right now is how to mount my EK Quantum Kinetic TBE pump/res combo. I bought it because it is what EK's config tool recommended I use, and I didn't notice at the time that it was a side mount pump and not bottom/floor mount like I assumed and I don't have the luxury of fast delivery to me location. To my eye's the only mounting options are either through the plastic floor/psu shroud cover, or to tuck it behind my vertically mounted gpu. Are these truly my only options or am I missing something?
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For those of you who have tried anything like this, what is your experience with cooling devices and cooling cases such as the Razer cooler and Arctech line? I know they don’t make the Archtech for the 12 Pro Max for some reason, but do for the 11 and 13 lines. Really odd. I’m trying to find suitable options for my iPhone 12 Pro Max. I don’t mind if the cooler/radiator doesn’t have MagSafe as long as it has a clamp that can still allow for it to be mounted. Ultimately, I’d like to find a cooler that can also be used with a cooling case, so long as the case is thin enough to actually be effective rather than just being cumbersome. I’m a massive Pokémon Go player, and it makes my iPhone extremely hot during heavy play sessions that last hours at a time, especially during the summer in direct sunlight that can’t really be avoided. The extremely dim screen and performance drops when the phone gets to that point make it essentially unplayable until I get back to my car, dock it on the mount in front of the vent, and blast the AC on it for 10 minutes. Then I would only be able to play for another 30ish minutes before I have to do it all over again. I know that a cooler would work better without a case, but just for device protection, even if it’s really thin, I’d like to find one that’s somewhat compatible. I’ve seen several videos on these things but they’re all reviewed without a case of any kind. I suppose a bumper case would work? Any thoughts and opinions would be greatly appreciated!
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While I was going through EK's configurator, I noticed that it was always suggesting I use their slim 30mm radiator no matter what "cooling performance" option I chose to cool my RTX 4080 Eagle OC and Ryzen 5 7600x. Is this a sign of "bad" radiator support that I didn't know about when purchasing my case, or am I just over estimating how much radiator I need considering I am going for two 360 rads?
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Budget (including currency): 100-250 Country: Italy Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: moderate gaming, possible VR usage, schoolwork and videos Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): (GA15 G15DK) AMD R&-5800X, LONG-DDR4 320 8G*2(asus no heat sink), NV RTX3070 Dual/*GD6(ASUS), 1TB PCIE G3 SSD (micron no heat sink), is fan cooled. I want to upgrade the ram CPU cooler (like a radiator possibly) and possibly add more fans.
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Hi I wanted to know if I can do a push pull with both ll120 and ml120 fans. The h150i comes with ml120, but I wanted to use the ll120 to match the RGB for the rest of the case. Is it possible if I can use the ll120 as a push (the part u can see on the inside of the case) and the ml120 as the pull. Also this will be Cooling the i7 13700k CPU. Also this will be top mount as well. any help or suggestions are appreciated.
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I know I'm definitely not the first person to run a setup like this, but I figured I'd share anyways, since most of the threads I found on this kinda thing from other forums were a little lacking in detail, and I had to go through a bit of trial and error with the adapters. Since I got into watercooling about 5 years ago, I'd always wanted to try hooking up a car rad to a loop, since working on cars is my biggest hobby apart from PC stuff. After watching the disaster that was LTT's car rad video a few times, I figured I'd finally give it a shot, since my parents aren't here in my dorm to stop me from bringing car parts inside Ended up with an original 1970 Camaro 3 core radiator, which uses a full copper core with brass end tanks; $50 from Facebook marketplace! Some new tubing, $20 worth of PVC schedule 40 adapters, a $25 Harbor Freight pond pump (264GPH, 5.5ft head pressure; submersible, comes with a 1/2in barb adapter for the outlet, and has a removable/ washable filter for the inlet), and a few gallons of distilled water/ Primochill's included additive later, here it is! Got it propped up next to my window with a box fan blowing cold air from outside through into the room. ADAPTERS For the adapters, on this specific rad, I ended up using a rubber 1-1/4in to 1-1/2in adapter on the inlet and outlet. The outlet measures 1-1/2in, but the adapters turned out to be a bit oversized, so had to try a few before I got ones that fit snugly. From there, used 1-1/2in Schedule 40 PVC to 1/2in NPT threaded adapters, then put 1/2in x 1/2in MNPT barbs into those using T Plus 2 PTFE pipe sealant on the threads. From my research, found that it's best practice to use a non-setting thread sealer for this kind of connection, as opposed to the usual PVC cement. The sealant is rated for potable water systems as well, so I felt alright about having it in the loop, and it doesn't appear to have mixed with the coolant anyways, so I'd say it's working properly. The first time I tried to get this loop done, I used brass barbs in the adapters, but as it turns out, brass won't seal properly in PVC threads, so keep that in mind if you try this. RADIATOR CAP Finally, I ended up getting one of the pressure release style radiator caps, which actually turned out to be a huge help. The spring in the cap seals the neck of the rad, but if you lift the lever, it'll bleed all the air out of the loop through the overflow tank stem; very handy feature, and the cap was only $8 on Amazon. Keeps the system sealed with the lever down as well, so I didn't have to plug the overflow tank stem like I thought I would. A regular style cap would be a PITA to bleed, since it won't open unless your coolant pressure gets above 15psi, which isn't going to happen in a PC loop, so I'd recommend getting this kind of cap if you wanna build one of these rigs. TUBING/ COOLANT I used 7/16in ID x 5/8in OD Primochill Advanced LRT tubing, which fits snugly over the 1/2in barbs (may have to stretch it and fiddle around to get em started though), and just used standard PC G 1/4 compression fittings for the PC side of the loop. The Primochill tubing also comes with an additive that makes a gallon of coolant with growth and corrosion inhibitors, which I've been running with no issues in my regular loop for 5 years now, so I trust that it'll keep the loop clean (enough). Took somewhere around 4 gallons to fill the loop, including the 2 gallon bucket the pump is sitting in; the other 3 gallons are just plain distilled water, but when I move out of my dorm, I'll probably spend the extra money for more of the Primochill additive just to be safe. It's about $13/ gallon, which is actually cheaper than antifreeze where I am! Speaking of, I do have antifreeze on hand for when the temps start tanking here in Virginia as we get closer to winter, so we'll see if that ends up being necessary. Could always just close the window, but I'm a sucker for low temps on my components, so I'll keep it open unless I start seeing condensation. Oh, and back on the topic of the Primochill tubing, I'd also like to note that they say the tubing IS compatible with antifreeze, so that I shouldn't have to worry about adding it if/ when the time comes. JayzTwoCents did a couple videos a few years back with antifreeze in a loop, and it worked perfectly fine for a few months; only replaced it in his follow up vid because his DDC pump got shorted on the heatsink and he had to drain the loop. Antifreeze (at least the regular green kind, do some research on the different kinds to know the difference; If I recall correctly, the red Toyota coolant is only used in full aluminum systems, and I haven't looked into the orange or yellow types, but they all have different additives for the systems they were designed for; green was made for older cars with iron block engines, copper or rads, aluminum heads, copper heater cores, etc. Lots of different metals, so do your due diligence if you wanna try this to make sure you use a coolant that'll be compatible with your specific rad/ blocks)... er, got a bit rambly there, so I'll digress Anyways, antifreeze is designed to be in systems which use rubber, so you shouldn't have to worry about the seals in your loop degrading. ANYWAYS, that was all a lengthy roundabout way of saying that the Primochill tubing will work with antifreeze, and I'd imagine other soft tubings for PC cooling will as well, but just make sure that your tubing of choice is compatible if you want antifreeze. I believe most hardline tubing won't work, specifically PETG. I also wouldn't recommend doing hardline for this kind of thing unless you're quite certain that you're gonna keep the radiator and PC exactly where they are. Always preferred soft tubing for ease of maintenance personally, since I'm more concerned with performance than looks. Bet you could make a setup like this look pretty slick with copper tubing though; industrial chic! TL;DR: Make sure you do your research on coolant compatibility!! And don't do what Linus did in whole room watercooling, since antifreeze doesn't contain growth inhibitors! (car cooling systems don't need growth inhibitors since the heat from the engine will kill anything in the loop. Your PC will NOT get the coolant into the 220f+ range like an engine will) PERFORMANCE/ RESULTS Only have it hooked up to the GPU block for now, but it's been working for a bit over a week now with no issues. Really wish they'd properly hooked up the rad in the video, because it really does work quite well, and the adapters were only about $20 total. Even better though, if you poke around on secondhand marketplaces, you can find a good amount of full copper rads from older cars for quite cheap, since a lot of people with those cars like to move up to new 4 core aluminum rads and the like. All in, I paid about $135 for the full setup, not counting the GPU block. Hope they revisit this concept on LTT and actually do it right. As for performance, obviously it's quite good. Pump actually has pretty good flow through the whole loop, and the GPU idles at about the temps of the weather, maybe 1c higher. Got down to 12c at idle the other night when it was in the low 50f range, and running Cyberpunk with the 1080ti overclocked to 2075mhz/ 6107mhz mem, it peaked at 23c, and managed to stay at 2075mhz the entire time! When it was hooked into the CPU loop (780mm total rad area, sharing the loop with an i7 6950x @ 4.2GHz/ 1.24v), it would sit closer to 34c in the same conditions with the windows opened, and clocked down closer to 2012mhz. Really no actual impact on performance, but hey, its nice to see the clocks staying up. Got it to keep a stable 2113mhz in Time Spy as well, hoping to see it go higher once winter kicks in. CHANGES I'D LIKE TO MAKE Eventually, I do want to move to a traditional style D5 pump with a reservoir, but I went with the bucket/ Harbor Freight pump for now because budget. At the very least, I'd like to drill some holes in the lid of the bucket so the tubing can pass through and I can keep the bucket sealed. Would also like an actual way to mount the rad in one place as well, since it's just leaning against the window frame, but its been stable on the shelf, so it'll do. One last thing I considered trying, and may end up doing eventually, is to get some brass caps in the size of the inlet/ outlet for the rad, then drill/ tap them for G 1/4 thread, and braze them to the radiator. If that's done properly, it should theoretically hook up to a PC the same as any standard PC radiator, but I'm using the adapters for now since I don't have access to any of the tools for that here in my dorm room. Plus, that adds a bit of cost, and it means you'd be permanently modifying the radiator, so it'd never really work in a car again. Probably not a concern for most people, but I would like to own a 2nd gen f-body one day, so I may end up putting the rad back into the car it was designed for. Probably not, but you never know! Would definitely make the setup a bit more "proper" though, assuming it was done right. I'm also not sure if I'm going to make use of the transmission cooler lines. The lines lead into a cylindrical reservoir inside of the passenger side end tank, and it's designed to actually heat the trans fluid and keep it at operating temp. I'm sure if you wanted to get wacky and wild, you could do some kinda system with a condenser or a chiller through the trans loop, but it'd be pointless to add it into the loop with the main rad, since the coolant would be at the same temps. I'M FINALLY (almost) DONE TALKING! Apologies for the long post, but hopefully I remembered to put in all the little details for how to actually set the loop up, in case anyone was looking into doing something similar. If anyone has any questions or wants some clarification on anything I may have accidentally left out, let me know! Would love to hear back on any advice some of y'all may have on this kinda setup as well, since I'm new to the whole janky watercooling world; this whole project is just me experimenting, and I'm definitely no expert.
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- car radiator
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Hey all, So I’m upgrading my exotic build, no need for specs. Right now she’s shoved in a O11 dynamic “XL” (really not, extra large…) with a bunch of radiators n so on just got a TT View 71 case. Very familiar with it since I did a prior build for my daughter using it. It’s so large, I’m upset I’m using the O11. Anywho, is there a product out there that cools water similar to a refrigerator? That is r-34 refrigerant along with a controller? Just wondering out of curiosity. I have enough room (prob) or externally to run water lines. I only ask cause my kids build has geez, uh, 3x 360 rads, 1x 140 and a d5 500ml pump/res - much larger case as I said. Mine, has a distro plate, 3x 360s and a 120. Regardless of how many fans I shove in there (2500rpm always on 100%) I peak around 57-61c. Overclocked Cpu and gpu, both with monoblocks. don’t know if anybody’s ever done something like this before, toss in a condenser to chill water…. Aside from all the scientific junk like condensation (I’ll figure something out), wondering if anybody has pulled this off before my other idea was to run lines outside the pc then simply into a gigantic water jug (more volume is better… not really) with a submersible water pump - but that would be like 10 gallons a minute, lot a bit overkill. Way too much water pressure Other idea was to get a few radiators, a not so powerful pump, then shove the rads infront of an air conditioner… anybody got suggestions? I’ve even considered having two seperate loops, submerge my water radiators into mineral oil, then loop the oil through a radiator or two. But then I figured I’d reach ambient (average, whatever it’s called) temperature anyways. Just cause oil don’t transfer heat so quick don’t mean in a few hours it won’t be as warm as the water. Besides, my thermals would be (presuming) the same as the mineral oil so yeah, a condenser from a refrigerator is my thought on this one. U know, oh I want cold water. Shove a glass in the front of a fridge and bam it’s cold. I’d like something like that. I can figure out the details/construction/logistics later. Just wanna know if something like this exists thanks!
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Hi all, as title says, planning a new watercooled build. Currently have a 3800XT and a 3080 12GB (FTW3 Ultra to be overclocked) cooled by a single 30mm thick 360 rad. Definitely not buying another GPU for a while, may upgrade CPU in 6 months to a year. Planning to use the Hyte Y60 for this, with the following rad config: Side intake (60mm thick 240 rad or 45mm thick 280 rad) top exhaust (currently used 360 rad) rear 120mm intake/exhaust. My main question is to do with the side intake. Is it worth it to use a 60mm thick 240mm rad instead of the 45mm thick 280? Not sure if the extra thickness at this point would be worth the extra space. Would push & pull fans make the thicker rad more effective? Dealing with ambient temps around 25C max. Curious to hear thoughts on whether this kind of rad config would be enough for the GPU overclocked and PBO on the CPU. Thanks in advance!
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i want to buy the h510 elite, really not sure about what 240mm aio i should get that would fit since it really sucks that i cant just put the whole 240mm aio to the top i was thinking of attaching the aio radiator to the front fans that come with the case and then using the 120mm fans that came with the aio on the top and back as for the aio, i've been hesitating between kraken x53 rgb (https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/wskd9r) and cheaper alternatives such as that corsair h100i elite capellix thats £50 less but im not sure if the 240mm corsair radiator would fit with the fans in front and if the 120mm fans would fit the other 2 places, and if i should just go with the x53(safe bet since same brand) where i'd be losing money i can put towards the gpu anyone (maybe h510 elite owners) know anything about the compatibility that would help with my decision? if any 240mm aio would fit, do you have any recommendations(white +rgb) or better ways to deal with this problem since i really like the h510 elite case.
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Hey guys, I have a 2-in-1 question, so first up let me ask this: What are your opinions on Corsair iCue ML140 RGB Elite fans, especially for radiator use? I can't seem to find that many reviews of them. I was thinking of replacing stock fans on my H115i RGB Plat, but then again, those stock fans are ML140 Pro's so is it even worth it? Reading into tech specs it would seem that Elite's have a little less airflow max. airflow - ~83CFM vs Pro's 97CFM - whilst being quieter - 32 vs 37dB - and slower - 1600 vs 2000RPM. I don't really see any difference between blade designs, apart from AirGuide technology which supposedly "increases static pressure and concentrates airflow". Can anyone confirm or link me a review or something? Just curious. So now for the second part of this question: I'm switching from Enthoo Pro M to Eclipse P500A. My current cooling setup is H115i with stock fans as intake (Balanced performace mode) at the front with triple ML140 Pro's as exhaust (2 top 1 back, locked at ~1000RPM). Current temps on mild OC in Enthoo Pro M are as follows: CPU (3700X) 32' idle, 59' load, GPU (5700XT Nitro+) ~55' idle, 71' load. The GPU however, is mounted vertically on Phateks' own bracket, around ~3 inches from side glass panel. I'm planning on putting all three ML140 Pro's as intakes locked at low RPM, since P500A front panel's logic is basically unlimited airflow, with H115i acting as top exhaust. My question is simple - is that enough exhaust or should I buy another ML140 Pro (love those fans) and mount it at the back for better cooling? Oh, and the GPU will still be mounted vertically, but using P500A's own mounting system, so much closer to side panel. Dunno if that's important with that intake potential. TL;DR: 1. Any non-review based opinions on Corsair ML140 RGB Elite fans for radiator use, especially as exhaust? 2. Is exhaust through 280mm AiO acceptable w/ triple ML140 Pro intake fans or should I add another 140mm exhaust fan at the back?
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Hi, Which brand should i get for a radiator, Barrowch or Bykski? I'm used to EK but cant find any in neqr local stores. Thanks
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Hi, any suggestion for best fans for radiators? I have 1 360mm 27mm thickness and 1 140mm 29mm thickness, the EKWB fans that came with the kit are so noisy even at low speeds (1200rpm) and I dont seem them push air that much. your advise is needed for for best static pressure fans, and best value fans as well. thanks.