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MOTB- asus motherboard m5a78l-m plus/usb3 AIO cooler- cooler master liquid lc120e rgb I ordered an AIO cpu cooler and saw that it came with two power cables. One for the fan, and the other one for the pump. Where would I connect those two on my motherboard? Does it matter? thank you :)

Keep in mind throughout this thing that im not super knowledgeable when it comes to hardware. I built my current computer with help from a friend who is much more knowledgeable about this stuff than I am. I recently shipped my computer across the country. I drove it myself. I thought I had padded it in the box pretty well, it was flat on its back, and the graphics card was aligned in the car's direction. Now that I've arrived, I turn it on, and the fans are on overdrive, and after I type my login information, and get the little loading icon, it shuts off abruptly. After that I restart it and the boot screen tells me "CPU Over Temperature" and when I go to see more options, it tells me the CPU is currently hovering around 99-100 degrees Celsius. This time when I boot the screen has this weird split down the very middle at the login screen. It abruptly shuts down mid login again. I have a corsair aio 280mm liquid cooler. The part that attaches to the CPU was still secure when I checked. So is everything else. So I guess my question is, how do i know what's causing the problem? The CPU, the cooler, or both? I'd rather not go out and buy a replacement part until I know definitively what needs to be replaced. Or if i can somehow just fix it. Could the CPU being damaged somehow cause it to reach those temperatures even with proper cooling? Should a CPU under normal circumstances be able to reach those temps with no cooling? Also im worried i may have caused damage by even letting it reach those temps when testing.

Hi every time my CPU usage changes I hear weird noise from my AIO pump. also, I should mention that there is no weird noise in high load (like when I'm rendering) in this video i'm switching between 2 tabs in Photoshop and every time i do you can hear the noise spec : Asus B550-E Deepcool Storm Castle 360 AIO WhatsApp_Video_2020-08-05_at_9_11.37_AM.mp4

I´ve heard you should either only use copper or only use aluminium for your custom water cooling loop. Why the hell, in this case, are there no copper pump+reservoir combos availible? Even the EK Waterblocks webpage gives me an aluminium pump+reservoir combo. Does the pump not affect the water? Sorry if the question turns out to be stupid - LiquidNitrogen BTW can I use brass fittings for an all-copper loop?

I do not know if there is a thread with this topic, but I bought a pump on ebay and was curious about turning it from non-pwm to pwm. It is a Laing DDC pump with one contact not being used. If I soldered a wire to it will it turn to a PWM?

So I've been looking into liquid cooling my PC and I think I've got the gist of it except for one thing. What do I base my fan/pump control off of? CPU or GPU? I'm doing a CPU and GPU loop and EK (liquid cooling guys) recommend a GPU to PWM fan adapter to have your GPU control some or all of the fans in the case if I'm doing more GPU intensive tasks. Now I don't necessarily do GPU intensive tasks except for gaming but I don't know if that is enough to base my entire pump or fan control off of the GPU for. I was thinking about having my GPU control the PWM pump speed while my motherboard headers control the fan speed. Is that smart or should I just leave it all alone and connect all the fans and pump control to the motherboard like a normal human. Thanks for any help!

So I'm in a bit of a bind. I'm a fresh alumnus building a PC for my old high school, and its supposed to be a one pc, two oculus build using unraid. We're using two 1080s, and an I-9 9-7940x. When I left two weeks ago, the build was going swimmingly, but yesterday I got a call telling me that the PC's water loop using the EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5, wasn't working. I come in today and see that the pump is now going out on the inlet, and out on the outlet for some reason, despite it working wonderfully last week when we flushed the loop out with distilled water. Saying its running in reverse may be a misnomer though as it feels like its just not pumping at all; please do help as the school board is visiting on Tuesday and for some reason, I feel responsible for this PC working.

Hi, I'm working on liquid cooling my Node 202. The pump I use is EKWB SPC-60 PWM. I've completed my loop and now went to the point were I need to power the pump to fill and bleed the loop. But unfortunately my pump doesn't start spinning when powered. The only thing that happens is a few very-very quiet "clicking" sounds from within the pump just after turning power on. The pump is not spinnig. No movement at all, not even a jitter. After half of a second or so the "clicking" stops and nothing more happens – the pump doesn't spin or make any noise. UPD: The rotor may actually jitter a little bit. My PSU is Corsair SF450. What I've tried: Connected the pump directly to PSU with a stock 6pin-peripheral-to-4pin-molex cable and a 4pin-molex-to-2pin fan adapter. Then jumped the 24-pin connector and turned on PSU. Same procedure works perfectly for powering a fan. Connected the pump to SYS_FAN connector on the motherboard, while having a fan connected to CPU_FAN connector. Then powered the motherboard normally. Everything started up normally, including the fan. But not the pump. Same as above but connected the pump to CPU_FAN instead. Same result. Completely unmounted the pump out of the loop to see if the issue is caused by the loop. Again, connected the isolated pump directly to PSU – same result. Disassembled the pump to check if it is jammed – looks good to me. Found a topic where someone suggested to connect the PWM pin to +5V molex pin in addition to direct connection to PSU. Tried that – same result. In all cases I get the same quiet "clicking" sound during power up and nothing more. From what I've read, the pump generally wouldn't make any sound if it's dead. Am I missing something? Or I've got a faulty pump that should be returned? This is my first build ever not to mention liquid cooling.

CPU: Intel i7-7800XGPU: Zotac Geforce GTX 1070RAM: Corsair DDR4 8gb x2MB: MSI Tomohawk X299 ACPSU: EVGA Supernova 850 B2 850W 80+ BronzeSSD 1: Samsung 850 Evo 256gbSSD 2: Adata SU800 256gbHDD: Western Digital Blue 1tbCPU cooler: Corsair H100i v2OS: Windows 10 ProfessionalSo I have this computer and the BIOS is basically ignoring its settings for the pump. I dont want it to do anything to my pump as thats regulated by Corsair's software. However the pump will not work unless I have game boost on.With game boost on I cant overclock from the base settings as game boost does all kinds of weird stuff. So I want game boost off. But when I turn it off my pump RPM drops to 0 for no reason and no matter what I do it will not turn back on. Simply turning game boost back on does not revert the changes. So my CPU is forever at 100C when I'm trying to fix this. This is literally cancer and I'm honestly pretty pissed. I have no idea what to do. I will say this is the second time this has happened and I somehow got the pump to turn back on from changing nothing. So I know theres a solution to this BIOS and AIO conflict and I want to know what it is and why this is happening.Would really like someone who knows exactly what would cause my BIOS to shut off my pump to 0rpm when I havnt changed any fan settings.Also is there a way to reset the BIOS back to default settings quickly?Game Boost specifically turns on the following settings:CPU Fan1 Smart Fan Control //this gets disabledPump Fan1 Smart Fan Control //this gets disabled (which is what I want)Pump Fan1 level 1 Fan Speed //this gets changed to 100% but still pump is 0rpmPump Fan1 level 2 Fan Speed //this gets changed to 100% but still pump is 0rpmPump Fan1 level 3 Fan Speed //this gets changed to 100% but still pump is 0rpmCPU Ratio Offset When Running AVX //this is probably irrelevant but changes to -3CPU Ratio Offset When Running AVX-512 //this is probably irrelevant but changes to -3 Temporary solution down below. Goal is to overclock without this problem so I'm going to continue to test things until I can find a stable solution.

So I've been planning my build for a while now and I want it to be my 24/7 main rig. I want it to be watercooled and from all the research I've done the Eheim 1046 seems to be the most reliable pump out there. Now to my problem; there don't seem to be any versions of the pump that can be controlled through the 4 pin pump header on the motherboard. Did I miss a version or is there a possibility to mod an existing model to be 4 pin controllable?

A while back the pump for my swiftech H320 x2 cooling system began making obnoxious stuttering and clicking noises during operation. If I use a special loop testing switch for my 24pin cable the system runs with a soothing hum, however operating with the 24pin connected to the motherboard the pump makes the aforementioned obnoxious noises. Has anyone had an issue like this before, or perhaps offer some insight on what might be causing it.

Anyone have experience with Barrow DDC Pumps? I have yet to find anyone talking about it, but they go for a fraction of EK's price (also factoring in where I live, EK's products becomes very unreasonably priced as I also have to pay USD$50-60 import tax per item). I have seen an Amazon review stating that it's not authentic Laing pumps as Barrow's only uses 18W instead of 23W. Is this true? Also, what are the internals made of? Will it conflict with my Copper/Nickel loop? Finally, how does it perform comparing to EK's? All I see in Amazon reviews are 2 extreme sides of the story: one side says they are top quality and runs very quietly, the other side says its literally shit??? Please help if you have experience with these pumps. Thx!

So I'm doing a custom watercooling loop and my reservoir is GLACIER R220 and I was wondering what pump I should use with it?

Last weekend I started having issues with my pump. It didn't start when I booted my PC. I used a variable power source to check if my psu was the problem. It still didn't work. After that, I overvolted it. It started to run at about 20 volts, after which I quickly turned the voltage back down (regular is 12). It ran fine for two days, then it didn't start again. After some shaking of my case it worked again. That's how it went throughout the week, until yesterday it wouldn't start without overvolting. Today I drained my system, took my pump apart and it looked just fine. When I put my system back together it ran just fine again. This evening I tried booting again. It failed. Does anyone have an idea what the problem could be? Pump is an ek x-res 140 d5 which is about 3-4 months old. My only sort of plausible theory is that the cable could be bad, doesn't explain why it works when overvolted, but it's the best I got.

Hello, I am starting to assemble the water cooling loop in my pc. The twist here is that it is Linus's Desk PC build (ill post a pic). I am just curious if the pump size matters relevant to the size of the loop? I will be using 12mm ID / 16mm OD hard tubing, 2x 360mm radiators, 2x 300mm reservoirs, a gpu lock, and cpu block. I have most of the parts ready to purchase, including this pump: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16152/ex-blc-1120/Swiftech_Apogee_Drive_II_Pump_and_CPU_Waterblock_Combo_-_Sockets_2011_APD2-2011.html?tl=g30c85s1703 . Will this be adequate? Thank you in advance!

So I’m working in a really small 3D printed case the original intent was for air not liquid however I was able to fit a 240mm rad in it so I’m goin with liquid instead and was just wondering if there’s a problem with going Res>Pump>Rad>Block? I’m using soft tubing and just trying to figure if I do it this way will my pump get hurt by having the hot liquid from the cpu going straight to it instead of to the radiator? It’s pretty much the only way I can have the loop work without taking everything out and re printing my Mobo tray.

Hello, it's experiment time again How much does the flow rate improve when adding more pumps in series, and how much does it affect the thermals? Those were some of the questions I had in my mind. So, I decided to have some fun, and added two more D5 pumps in my loop to find out. I was curious how it would affect the cooling performance, so I did a little comparison test. Here's my water cooling loop, which should have some restriction in it: - Pump(s): 3x Laing D5 Varios (1x EK-D5 Vario with X- RES 100 combo + 2 x EK-D5 Vario with EK-XTOP Revo Dual D5 Serial) - Radiators: UT60 360 mm + UT60 480 mm + Xtreme Nova 1080 mm - Blocks: CPU: 1x Alphacool NexXxoS XP³ Light Acetal, GPUs: 2x EK-FC R9-290X Acetal+Nickel (Rev.2.0) full cover - Like 5 m of 10/16 mm tubing I was interested in the results at very high OC with high power draw and heat, since that's where the results might matter for me - though I wasn't expecting huge difference in any case. I did the tests as follows. First, before installing the additional two pumps in the loop, I ran the tests with a single D5 at speed settings: 1, 3 and 5 (max). I should mention, that the D5 kind of stalls (at least mine does) to a very low speed and vibrates more when you set it to as low as it goes (it almost goes below 1) so I ran it at something like "1.2", where it runs nicely and quiet, as the lowest setting. Next, I added the two pumps with the EK dual top in series after the original pump with res combo and ran the tests with all three pumps at 5 (max). I tested my CPU and one of my GPUs (other card was not powered on) separately. For the CPU (i7 3970X Sandy Bridge-E six-core) I dialed in settings 5.0 GHz @ ~1.5 V and ran Prime95 with AVX small FFTs for the maximum heat output. For the GPU (AMD R9 290) I dialed in settings 1300 core, 1600 memory @ ~1.5 V (1250 mV + 250 mV with reduced Vdroop bios) and ran Furmark @ 1080p for the maximum heat output. I used the digital PSU Corsair AX860i to log the temps and other data. Max system power draw (coming in the PSU) for the CPU only test was ~650 W and GPU only test ~1000 W. I ran each test for 3 min and logged the data with intervals of 30 seconds. Also, at each corresponding 30 seconds I manually wrote down the water temperature to excel file. This way I got six data points for each individual test with CPU and GPU temperature, power and water temps data. For the CPU temperature value, I used the average of the six core temps. Finally, I calculated the difference to water temperature for each of the six data points, and took the average of that for the final result. Here's what I got: Now something to note, is that the ambient temps (around 20-22 C) were not controlled or measured which affect the Tmax values, that represent the max temp that CPU or GPU reached during each test. The test were done in order from red to blue and I think the room was a bit colder during the triple pump test. Also the water temp probe is a basic cheap inline one with resolution of 0.1 C, but the actual accuracy and response time is questionable. Anyway, the theory behind flow rate improving temps is the same as with more air flow improving temps. Basically, you make the boundary layer on the cold plate surface thinner and move more cool liquid in proximity of the cold plate surface (and heated liquid away), which improves the convection of the heat. Besides the cold plate, this should also result in the radiators working more efficiently for the same reason, resulting in additional reduction in temps (but you don't see that in component temp delta to water temp). However, consider you have infinite radiators and flow rate, which would keep the water temp and the cold plate inner surface at the ambient temp. You would still have certain temperature difference between the component and the water, which depends on the component heat output and thermal resistance from the component to the inner surface of the cold plate. Depending how close you already are to this situation, where you can keep the cold plate and radiators inner surface close to water temp, determines how much more you can improve the temps just by rising the flow rate. As you can see, temps didn't improve too much for the CPU going from 1 pump to 3 pumps, but the GPU still saw some improvement. Also the CPU and GPU improved approximately in the ratio of their heat output. Obviously, the result will be greater the bigger heat concentration you are dealing with. I've been thinking of doing some oc runs with cold water... So one thing to consider, is that the water viscosity is 2 - 3 times greater at below 5 C compared to the normal 30 - 40 C one would expect in a loop. Higher viscosity directly decreases the flow rate, which additional pumps will help to overcome. Bonus - Had fun bleeding the system with triple D5, I think this is the first time I didn't need to tilt my radiators/case at all to get all of the air easily out.

Hello guys, big fan of Linus and the rest of the crew, i have posted here before, but personal trouble got in the way don't worry everything is fine now. So guys, i do remember posting here for hardware/peripherals, i built my new PC had no issues with anything, but the issue showed up later on. It's a ventilation issue, it's a TT Versa N21. did research on the case, and TT states you could water cool the system probably for an iatx board but not an full sized ATX, such as the which i own Asus 970 Aura/Gaming motherboard. I watched plenty of Linus videos, he did an all RGB build, and the case he was actually included for the build It was the In-Win 805 Infinity mirror case did he mod it for ventilation? talked to a few people and called in-win service email. And told me i wouldn't have any trouble transferring everything over, It's the AMD FX-8370 4.0GHz and i am running it on the NZXT Kraken x52 (120mm fans), i guess people configs are different. I hear its an excellent case. then i hear people mention how bad the ventilation for this case, as bad as people say it is, so i let the uber experts on this particular case. I Plan on buying the Kraken x62 (140mm fans) for what ever case i get, i know ascetics isn't everything but wanting to go out and just get a great case with great ventilation and bigger radiator support... Maybe you guys could give send help, guidance Advice, and help prevent me from paying over priced that really doesn't help with what you are trying to do. I'm old school really want a nice case with bays, so i could install a fan controller and my bluray do it all drive. Hope you all have a great week and thanks in advance, sorry for about my messy post, my life sucks at times suffering with chronic pain and living on pain killers through out the day....

Just installed my new motherboard (msi z370m gaming pro ac) and cpu (i7 8700k) and the pump on my corsair h100i v2 won't work (it worked fine on my old mobo). The cpu idles at 50-70 degrees. There is a cpu fan header and a pump header on the board. The fan and pump is connected to the cpu fan header. What should i do?

Hey, I have an Eheim pump (Aquacomputer Aquastream XT) that seems to be causing a lot of noise lately and im trying to decide if I need to find a way to get rid of vibration or if the pump is failing. During first power on, the pump revs up to 100%, back to 0%, and then goes to a normal RPM (something like 75%? not sure exactly but its 'normal' range). If it sits on the desktop for the most part its fine, but if I do something like launch a game, or sometimes mid game, or during video transcoding, the pump will start to cause the case door (Corsair 800D) to vibrate. Additionally, at times I hear the pump restart and do its 0-100% and back to normal, or sometimes I will hear what I can only describe as a chug sound 2-3 times and then back to normal. I highly suspect the pump is failing as it was given to me used by a friend for my 1st loop build and has been running for about 2-3 years in my loop. I am not sure how to verify if the pump is truly failing or if there is something else at play here. If the pump really is failing, I am thinking I want to switch over to a D5, but had some questions about that as well. I know the 'good' D5 is made by Laing, do these always say Laing on them? I would really like to go to a pump res combo, but considering I already have a res, has anybody come across pump tops for it that I can attach a res to or do these only come as full res and pump? thanks!

Hello guys, I think my temps while gaming are kinda high considering I'm using an AIO, but I'm not sure CPU: i3-8350k CPU Clock: 4600 MHz Idle: 34-40C Game: 50-64C Benchmarks: 64-74C I'm using Arctic Silver 5 compound, are these good or is my cooler underperforming? Rad is front mounted I've added a regular 140mm fan on top to keep VRMs cool

Yesterday at night I encountered an interesting problem. To begin with: I am using a deepcool aio, in which pump is near it's lifespan (it can be easily heard sometimes, cause it's being relatively loud and much louder than it used to be) So here is a problem: suddenly, after I shut down my PC the pump starts working, while PC is turned off and none of the LEDs shine. I know this exactly because it always runs loud when this happens. It even continues after I unplug PC from the wall. Any ideas WTF is happening and, if possible, any solutions?

So I´ve been hearing some weird sounds coming from my recently installed 240 Liquid Cooler. It worked fine without any weird sounds the first day. So I contacted Cooler Master Support. This is what I wrote: So during black friday I got myself a Master Liquid 240 (non-pro). After I installed it it work perfectly for the rest of the day, but when I woke up the next morning to turn on my computer I could hear a weird water sound which I think is coming from the pump. It sound like something between gurgling or dripping. I´ve checked and I don´t see any leaks at all and the computer boots and the temps are like usual. around 30C idle. What could be the problem? Thanks in Advance! /Sigge I figured it could take a while for them to respond and I was wondering if anyone else had encountered something similar with Cooler Master´s Liquid Cooler, or any other brand for that matter?

hi i have some air on my aio pump and its making a rather annoying ratling noise is that bad for the pump ? is there a way to remove the air from AIO PUMP ? my cpu cooler is ARCTIC FREEZER 360 there a video for the noise test : video-1513876608.mp4

I'm buying a A240G water cooling kit for my 8700k and my 1080 ti. I want a second 120mm radiator to put at the back of my case to help keep temps down. The included pump in the kit is a resivoiur and pump combo and is very small and I think very weak. It's called the EK-ACR SPC-60 PWM and I can't find it anywhere online except in the kit. So I don't know the specs. Can someone tell me if this can handle a CPU, a GPU and 2 radiators? Thanks! Kit link (includes pump mini-info thing: https://www.ekfluidgaming.com/ek-kit-a240g