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Showing results for tags 'pump'.
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I was watching a PC build in Korean & it had what looked like a chunky 240 rad with inset fans & a built in pump branded as Lian Li. What is this called & is it any good? It looks like an elegant cooling component for crammed or sff builds, I definitely want to look into it.
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I have EK SPC160 pump rated at 250L/H, can it push water effectively thru 1 360mm and 1 140mm rad both 27mm thickness and 1 CPU Block? -
Hi guys, new to posting on Forums but I've been PC building for years, probably about 12 systems total between work, friends, and for myself since 2016. I recently bought a deepcool Castle 360ex on Facebook Marketplace. The pump is not sending water through the loop I am 90% certain. I had a 120mm aio in here before on the same header (I also tried another anyway no change) I turn it on and go to bios so I can look at temps. It goes from 57 down to 54 if I've let it rest enough to cool, and then once the metal is heated it starts going up quickly reaching into 90C and the first time when I checked after not going to bios it was 113 and shut off as I opened ryzen master. Do you guys think he sold me a bad AIO, was it damaged in shipping, or am I missing something? He's been a very nice guy throughout and says he tested it and it worked. I know it is making good contact with the CPU because of the cooling for the first 30 seconds and how the thumbscrews and plate that mounts to the backplate get hot as well. All fans are spinning, all panels off as well so it isn't bad airflow. I tried SYS_FAN6_Pump (what my last AIO was connected to, it was a prebuilt I bought for the gpu) and CPU_OPT (what some guy in a video said to use if it was closer than pump header) it's just a ryzen 5600x so it shouldn't be hard to cool. My main question is, is the only thing needed to power this pump the one cable to the pump header? I just want to make sure I'm not missing something, the videos I've watched don't mention anything like that. Also worth noting I have not been able to get the RGB to work on the pump or my front fans since I did this. I will have to watch a video on how to get these phanteks case fans working properly. If you have anything I can try in regards to the pump let me know, thanks!
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Hi, I have EK CLASSIC SPC 160 pump and EK CLASSIC 360mm 27mm thick Radiator. My wife wants to gift me an upgrade, should i get a decent D5 pump or thicker Radiator? My current pump is rated 250L/H and am only cooling the CPU Thanks
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My brother in law has an MSI Sea hawk 2080ti and he told me that it was getting up to 80 degrees which is quite high for an AIO water cooled GPU. I think he got the card as soon as it came out, and he says the only thing he has ever done is take it out of his computer when moving house and put it back in, this is the first time he has taken the cover off. He sent me this picture and I have never seen anything like this, does anyone have any idea what this build up is on the pump? I can hear liquid in the radiator when I shake it.
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Hey, I've been dealing with this issue since i built PC with NZXT Kraken x63. All cables are connected correctly as it's written in Manual of installation. The AIO is working really well on OC 8700k,it can also be detected in NZXT Cam with The strip of NZXT H510i. I Can change everything except pump RGB Light (Circle/Led) and its only visible in the one corner,can't even light up NZXT Logo (Check the real image).I've tried different usb ports and other sata connectors but still same. Am i doing something wrong or it has dead Led on pump? Should i contact the seller? Thanks.
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I recently bought a Corsair h150i Pro XT and I find the pump to be just a tiny bit too audible. As the pump gets its power thru a Sata power header i was wondering if I could solder a resistor into the voltage leads of a SATA connector, to lower the RPM. I don't see a reason why it wouldn't work, but if you guys got any advice, thanks in advance!
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Hey, so I'm building a loop for my brother's PC. We're using an NZXT H200i, so to save space on the pump, we bought this combo https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10000411453657.html after Optimum Techs good review of it. However, the pump acts weirdly, for example, it just wont pump water most of the time. The motor is spinning, but it just doesn't push water. Then other times, it pumps but at a very slow flow. I say 10% of the time we could get it to spin normally. When it was in the system, tilting it to the front and power cycling a dozen times we got it to spin quickly as it should. When it spins quickly, the speed control and everything works. But after draining the loop, looking at the pump, and seeing nothing physically wrong, we can not get it to spin at the proper speed outside the case. I recorded a video of it spinning slowly, hence having bad flow and being quiet, and while the system was tilted and it going "fast". Sorry for the bad phone quality. Is this pump defective and we should return it? Thanks for the help. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gvFvfVuEYfc&ab_channel=Gecko. -
Hi together, I'm interested in buying a DDC Pump, one with PWM control and want to ask if someone have some experience with these pumps. 1: Are they reliable? 2: Do they actually need active cooling under their pcb? 3: Do heavy brass tops really reduce vibrations (like the Alphacool Eisdecke, or the one from Phobya)? 4: Is the flow rate higher compared to a D5 at the same noise level? For the active cooling aspect, I thought of buying a chunk of copper, drill some holes in it with G 1/4 threads and connect the pump bottom case in my cooling loop.
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Hey guys! I'm doing an at home experiment for my physics degree due to covid restrictions, and I need to suck water up a straight vertical tube. I'm not a super practical person and I've been racking my brain for ages to find a nice cheap solution, and then it occurred to me that water cooling enthusiasts might have some experience/ideas on this. Let me describe the problem in detail. The bigger picture is that I want to put a vertical tube in a tank, draw water up the tube, then release the water so that it drops back down the tube and oscillates up and down within the tube. What I need to figure out is a cheap and simple way to draw the fluid up the tube initially. The tube must be rigid, straight, and transparent. The tube will be about 1m in length, and I would like to be able to draw the fluid nearly to the top but not all the way to the top where it'd overflow. I must be able to draw the fluid slowly enough that I could precisely set the height anywhere on the tube. The tube diameter is not yet decided, but I would be happy to use standard sized pipes and fittings, ideally a tube between 0.5-2cm in diameter would be good (but I'm flexible on this). I was thinking that I'd need to put a valve on the top of the tube then use a suction pump to draw water up the tube, then seal the valve, and when I'm ready to drop the fluid, quickly open the valve again. It would be a bonus (really not necessary if it's not very easy to incorporate) if I could get an accurate pressure measurement of the air inside the tube before I drop the fluid. Also, once I open the valve I don't want it to restrict air flow too much as this would stop the fluid falling freely. I want the pressure in the tube to near instantly reach atmospheric pressure after opening the valve. I'd like to achieve all this for under £50 (ideally quite a bit less than that). I'm in the UK, so please could you recommend parts that I'd be able to get here, and I'm not limited to buying PC water cooling parts, literally anything that will do the job is fine! I'd be really grateful for any advice, parts recommendations, alternative methods, etc. (I suppose one alternative method is that I could pump water into the bottom of the tube then seal it with a valve at the top and remove the pump apparatus from the bottom of the tube before opening the valve again. I am aware I could also lower the tube into the tank, seal it, then lift it up, but this isn't viable for me as I won't have a deep enough tank to be able to get the water far enough up the tube.) -
Hello everyone, currently, I am accumulating all the parts for my first gaming rig. Caused by space constraints, I decided to go mATX for the Motherboard and the case. To counter the expected reduced airflow, I got a MSI Coreliquid 240r AIO, which has it's pump in the radiator. Now to the question: Can I mount it to the top of a case? (I have the choice between two, one with support for radiators at the top, one only supporting fans at the top, the definite choice will be made when my problem is solved) I watched the concerning Video from GamersNexus, but he was only talking about pumps in the CPU block. And applying his explanations to my AIO, the only 2 ways to mount it, would be at the bottom or front with tubes down, so neither the pumps, nor the tubes are on top of the loop. Does anyone have experience with this kind of AIO? Thanks for your help. Sincerely, Breeee
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So, I am looking at this pump on amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KPGS3XM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And I notice that it has two connectors, one for power and one for PWM signal. I thought to myself, "aren't fan headers 12v?" Armed with this knowledge I googled for the standard about how many amps it could handle. While I get some varying numbers nothing out there seemed to be below 1amp. So I look at the pump again and it runs at 0.7a on 12v. Which brings me to my questions: Why do so many of these pumps not use the power from the header on the motherboard? Would it be a bad idea for me to get this and mod it to run the power through the 4 pin AIO or CPU fan header on my ROG X570 motherboard?
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Hi, Where do I plug in my radiator fans which is connected using a y splitter, and my pump 3pin cable? The silverstone manual only displays an image with the words "CPU_FAN" and "pump", so I am not sure which ports I should connect them to. I currently have the y splitter connected to the CPU_FAN and the pump cable to the SYS_FAN5_PUMP. Is this configuration correct? Thanks
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Recently Gamers Nexus uploaded video about installing AIO in proper way. However it was only about AIOs with pump built in CPU block. Now, what is proper way to install AIO with pump built in radiator. I do have one like this and i want to mount it on top of my chassis, but I am not sure if it is optimal mounting for good longevity. How would you approach it? Do you have any resources from i could gain additional information? -
I am trying to build my reservoir/pump combo into a desk currently but I've noticed that i get a bubble sound coming from the inlet/outlet ports when mounted horizontally with the inlet/outlet facing up and the filling of the reservoir is awful in this orientation but i cannot fix the horizontal placement. I was wondering if there is a d5 vario cap that i can use with the res to help fix the air gap being created over time with evaporation or should i somehow try to fix the air gap created by adding a slight incline to the reservoir...either way filling the res is terrible i cant get rid of the air. I am thinking of going with a pump cap: https://www.newegg.com/p/13C-00NK-00530?Item=9SIARFABZ44141&Description=d5 pump top&cm_re=d5_pump top-_-9SIARFABZ44141-_-Product and then capping the res with a single inlet and outlet so the reservoir is just that...storage and i shouldn't have to worry about air gaps as long as the reservoir never falls below 50% but also making it maybe a little easier to fill? I am currently struggling with the res/pump combo: https://www.xs-pc.com/discontinued-eol/d5-photon-270-reservoirpump-combo as they use gravity to keep water in the pump and only really good at a vertical mounting strategy. This is my first time trying anything like this and I'm confused as to how i can go about solving the air bubbles issue in the pump/res itself. Any help would be much appreciated. I've been browsing a few retailers for d5 caps but there seems to be a lack of info on what caps will fit, do all d5 pumps fit the same harness mechanism. Specifically D5 vario pump fitting into a 3rd party pump cap that might be labeled as XXXX(brand_name) d5 pump cap: https://www.amazon.com/Monsoon-MMRS-MMRS-TRP-Pump-White/dp/B01LWVM3LR/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1PYUO3A5JTJT1&dchild=1&keywords=acrylic+top+for+d5&qid=1598894269&s=electronics&sprefix=acry%2Celectronics%2C215&sr=1-1 https://www.amazon.com/Alphacool-13188-Eisdecke-D5-top/dp/B019DU2A3W/ref=sr_1_9?dchild=1&keywords=d5%2Bpump%2Btop&qid=1598893541&sr=8-9&th=1 P.S it is not finished yet i was just testing components for leaks and such before i finalize the wire management and painting.
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Keep in mind throughout this thing that im not super knowledgeable when it comes to hardware. I built my current computer with help from a friend who is much more knowledgeable about this stuff than I am. I recently shipped my computer across the country. I drove it myself. I thought I had padded it in the box pretty well, it was flat on its back, and the graphics card was aligned in the car's direction. Now that I've arrived, I turn it on, and the fans are on overdrive, and after I type my login information, and get the little loading icon, it shuts off abruptly. After that I restart it and the boot screen tells me "CPU Over Temperature" and when I go to see more options, it tells me the CPU is currently hovering around 99-100 degrees Celsius. This time when I boot the screen has this weird split down the very middle at the login screen. It abruptly shuts down mid login again. I have a corsair aio 280mm liquid cooler. The part that attaches to the CPU was still secure when I checked. So is everything else. So I guess my question is, how do i know what's causing the problem? The CPU, the cooler, or both? I'd rather not go out and buy a replacement part until I know definitively what needs to be replaced. Or if i can somehow just fix it. Could the CPU being damaged somehow cause it to reach those temperatures even with proper cooling? Should a CPU under normal circumstances be able to reach those temps with no cooling? Also im worried i may have caused damage by even letting it reach those temps when testing.
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Hi every time my CPU usage changes I hear weird noise from my AIO pump. also, I should mention that there is no weird noise in high load (like when I'm rendering) in this video i'm switching between 2 tabs in Photoshop and every time i do you can hear the noise spec : Asus B550-E Deepcool Storm Castle 360 AIO WhatsApp_Video_2020-08-05_at_9_11.37_AM.mp4
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Hey there. Quick question regarding EK pumps and reservoirs. I have a EK D5 revo pump and reservoir combo. Im looking to get an EK quantum kinetic 360 reservoir. Will I be able to remove the pump from my current reservoir and install it to the kinetic reservoir? thanks
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As the title stated, I know nothing. But, I have a Cooler Master Liquid Lite liquid cooler for my CPU and in the BIOS I can't find any data for the pump's RPM and I have no control over it in the BIOS. My issue isn't necessarily that I need the control over it (although I would like to have it), my concern is whether or not the pump and liquid cooling is actually working. From looking in my PC I can see the fans the pump is connected to are in fact powered and running so whatever the case I know the fans are at least working and it is getting power. What I believe the issue to be is that the liquid cooler is potentially plugged into the wrong port with my evidence being that in the picture shown with the post is has a cable coming from the CPU Cooling going straight into the CPU_FAN slot rather than the AIO_PUMP slot. What I need to know is, is this correct and the solution is simply just switching the cable to the other port or is there more to it that I'm not seeing, understand, or aren't aware of. I would also like to know more about the potential maintenance of liquid cooling and what I need to keep an eye on to avoid future issues and potential malfunctions and what to do to avoid them.
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MOTB- asus motherboard m5a78l-m plus/usb3 AIO cooler- cooler master liquid lc120e rgb I ordered an AIO cpu cooler and saw that it came with two power cables. One for the fan, and the other one for the pump. Where would I connect those two on my motherboard? Does it matter? thank you :)
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Hi I am just getting into custom water cooling and I plan on purchasing this kit https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-classic-kit-p360-d-rgb. I noticed that the pump included only has a flow rate of 250 L/h and this seems low relative to other pumps on the market. I am just wondering how important is the flow rate and what the minimum flow rate that I should be looking for if I was to add a GPU waterblock and another 240 rad to this kit. Thanks in advance and let me know if I have missed any relevant information.
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Hello there... So, I am thinking of using a Kraken Z63 simple by complete or embellish my setup, so I can have the Omen logo displaying on it... Here's the thing, since my case doesnt allow 140mm fans, I was thinking of swaping the Z53 pump with the one that comes with the Z63, so I can end up with the custom display screen on the 240mm radiator (also thinking of cutting the tubes a little bit)... Question is, has anyone ever done something similar? The connectons of the tubes seem to be pratical identical.
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hello i would like to make custom loop using CPU block with pump build in like Linus did However as i'm using Corsair iCUE 220T Case i'd like to put in something little more fancier I'm interested in blocks with display Can any of these two be salvaged for their blocks and used for custom loop? GIGABYTE Aorus Liquid Cooler ASUS ROG RYUJIN
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Hi I recently bought an Arctic Liquid Freezer II 240mm AIO and have been really impressed with the performance. But then this morning i booted up my system and got over 100 degrees in hwmonitor when the system turned off automatically. I then proceeded to reseat the AIO and booted into bios. The temperatures then started climbing from 35c to 70c i then turned off the system in fear of destroying something. I installed the AIO 10 days ago and used my system the evening before the problem began with no issues what so ever. English isn't my first language so sorry for any spelling errors. Specs: Ryzen 5 2600 (stock speed) Aegis DDR4 3000Mhz 16GB GTX 970 4GB Corsair VS650 PSU SanDisk 120GB m.2 sata Gigabyte B450m s2h
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Hi. I hope i posted into the right place. Recently i did a build for someone that even if i told him i`m not yet into rgb and lights setups he wanted to do something. I failed of course on syncing the pump with the lights from the fan and that is the reason i am here. First here are the components MB: B450 Gaming X Case:AQIRYS Arcturus ARGB AIO CPU Water Cooling: CPU ID-Cooling Zoomflow 240 RGB MB Might have the right headers for them but i did not manage to find out which or i failed from the start and actually does not have any support for that Case: Has her own fans 3xfront 1xback and a RGB controller on the back of the case - that came with the case + remote AIO:Has also RGB and a lot of rats nests cables and a non existing manual .. just a piece of paper with two ways of setup What i want from this is to sync the AIO with the included RGB case fans with the help of the MB nothing more. They work separately but not together. The fans can be controlled from software of the MB and REMOTE AIO just from the remote What i suspect is that the MB might be the culprit but you guys might share some light into this. Heads up : I don`t have direct access anymore at the PC but i can ask for some pictures but i don`t think they will help a lot because of multiple cables from AIO + CASE FANS Thanks in advance if someone can help!
