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Showing results for tags 'psu'.
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Well just as the title states does anyone know if this psu (at the 1000 or 1300w) is anygood?. there are no reviews and it is not on the tierlist. from what i could find it that some user speculated that the psu might be a rebrand wentai psu. but that also doesnt ring any bells for me. any input ?
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Saw a decent deal on it at an online retailer in my country, cross-checked the model with the PSU tier list, which said it was a tier A psu -- so I bought it. It's only now that I noticed the footnote on the tier list indicating that this PSU has been discontinued and any listing I find for it will be old stock. So I called up the retailer and they confirmed that the manufacturing date is Nov 2021, which makes it a bit more than 2 years old. Should I be concerned that the caps and any other components on the PSU will have degraded in this time? It does come with a 10 year warranty so I'm inclined to think that it will be fine and I should just keep it. -
Hello everyone, First time here. Might as well try and I am seeking for help. i bought new components and built a pc. Here is the list of the components: AMD Ryzen 9 7900X3d MSI GeForce RTX 4070 Gaming x slim 12gb ASUS TUF x670-e 2x16gb Corsair ram DDR5 5200 2 2tb Samsung NVme m2 Lian Li GA II 360 Trinity SL-INF 3x lian li uni fan 1x nzxt fan from nzxt h9 case PSU Bequiet Pure Power 12 M 750W OS: windows 11 pro 64x BIOS: asus tuf 1813 (do not really know the name but version is 1813 supposed to be the latest) Here is the context. My brother in law built the pc. Everything went well. Pc booted, windows 11 pro installed and activated. Everything worked fine until I tried to launch games. I first launched rocket league. The whole pc crashed. No blue screen but completely shut down. I then restarted it and launched rocket league again. This time pc did not crashed and was able to play (I did only for 5 min to test). Then I launched warzone. Again, pc completely shut down and no blue screen. Starting to worry and did some research on the internet. I tried a few solution and running tests such as memory, download latest drive (was already done), etc. I then launched warzone a second time and pc still shut down. Knowing warzone is maybe not optimal, I tried launched another game in this case CS 2. The pc also shut down when launching the game. It pissed me off. I unplugged psu and did not restart the pc. Now, I do not know what to do. I begin to think that PSU is not enough to support the whole thing, mainly GPU, AIO and others. Because when launching games, every components starts to activate and maybe requires more power which can’t be delivered by the PSU. Does anyone has an idea of what the issue can be or can anyone help me ? i am starting to worrying because it is quite an amount of money and I am afraid components might have been damaged. Many thanks if you took your time to read this and if you bother replying. Btw, whising you merry Christmas !
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While i'm gaming on more demanding games my pc crashes, the screen lose signal and audio freezes for a few seconds, then it restart itself, but the signal is still not available, so I need to manualy restart my pc. In the event viewer the only error is the kernel 41, which is a consequence of the crash not the root cause. I've tried to all this thinghs: Update the drivers, reinstall them with DDU, disable iontegrated gpu, install gpu driver version from the mobo manufcturer page. I replaced my PSU and upgraded it from 650w to 850w. Resited everything, tried to use 2 different pcie cables, upgraded bios to the latest version, put everything to default settings. My system crash with or without XMP profile enbled and I have tested them with memtest86 for many hours. Another important thing is that I can't reproduce the crash in stress tests, I've used OCCT, Furmak, 3dmark, cinebench. Olso in somelight weight games it never crashed like Crash Bendicot Insane Trilogy and a Plague Tale. The game where it happen the most is The finals. I'll try downloading another gpu intensive games to check if it crash. And last but not least I've checked all my temps and they seem fine to me. I can I attach you a log of hwmonitor which was active when my pc crashed last time. I don't know if it could be that my gpu is faulty, but a I want to be really sure before sending it to RMA ( I didn't bought it on amazon ) Here's my specs: Windows 11 Home Edition PSU - MSI MAG A850GL PCIE5 Alimentatore, 850W 80 Plus Gold Mother Board - AsRock b650 pro rs wifi Amd ryzen 5 7600 CORSAIR VENGEANCE DDR5 RAM 32GB (2x16GB) 6000MHz CL30 Intel XMP XFX, SPEEDSTER SWFT 319 RAD, RX6800, 16GB Kingston KC3000 PCIe 4.0 NVMe M.2 SSD 2 tb Thermalright PA120 SE ARGB log.CSV
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Hello) I recenly completed my first pc build. Eveything is working flawlessly so far, but I a concerned abount the strange high pitch noise from the psu. Psu is corsair rm850e. It is present during idle and during load. I will attach video, hope you will recognize the sound. 20231222_232510.mp4
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I don’t know if I need serious evaluations of my mental state or if this psu backplate design is either backwards/incredibly stupid. I’ve been at this build since Saturday and tired af. WHAT AM I DOING WRONG please send help psu MSI MPG a750g case Lian-Li Lancool III RGB
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So, with the Christmas season around the corner I'm looking forward to upgrade my rig from a GTX 1060 6gb with the money I saved until now, but I can't find a solid answer for my PSU problem. My pc config is : Ryzen 7 2700x with the included Wraith Prism cooler ;Asus TUF gaming x570-plus mobo; 16gb ram; Asus ROG strix GTX 1060 6gb and a Corsair CX550M PSU. The thing is that I'm not sure if I have enough wattage budget for a 4070. Every wattage calculator I used gives me an estimate of around 350w used for my build with the RTX 4070. The CPU is 105w and the GPU 200w. But Nvidia recommends a 650w PSU minimum. Can i get away with not upgrading the PSU? PS: I know I will slightly bottleneck the 4070 at 1080p, but in my country the RTX 4070 and the RTX 4060ti are almost the same price, and in the future I might consider upgrading the CPU also.(and I also use the 4k tv sometimes for couch gaming). In the same context, what about a 3070/3070ti? They both chug more power, but I found deals for them for much cheaper than the 4070 and might be a better fit for my CPU. Can they fit my power budget?
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First the specs: System: Windows 10 Home 64bit CPU: 8700K GPU: Aorus 1080ti MOBO: Asus Strix Z370-f Cooler: Corsair H100i RGB pro xt PSU: Corsair HX750 RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB PRO 4x8 32GB 3000mhz The system is 5 years old. Recently been sitting disconnected entirely for the last 4-5 month because the previous GPU (also a 1080ti but a different one) was shorting and causing problems. I got a 'new' secondhand GPU, I saw it working myself on the system the guy I bought it from was running, nothing seemed wrong with it. The GPU is the *only* component that was changed. And I am not overclocking. The issue: Got the new GPU, plugged it in. First day, everything was working fine. The next day, I got nvlddmkm.sys BSODs. I updated the drivers, then tried uninstalling and re-installing the drivers. Still the BSOD remained. Took the GPU out entirely, connected my displays to the MOBO's I/O and everything worked. The next day everything went nuts. Remember, the card is not in the system now. I get a "CPU Over Voltage Error" on startup. I get to the BIOS. I can't believe what I'm seeing: CPU Voltage: 4.064v Memory Voltage: 4.064v +12v rail: 24.288v +5v rail: 10.120v +3.3v rail: 2.608v Motherboard Temp: -57c This doesn't seem like a GPU driver issue to me. I saw a thread on Tom's Hardware that indicated that the nvlddmkm.sys error could be related to a bad PSU. What do you think is happening? Help!
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Hi guys I have a question, Is it safe to use the 2 pin from a 2x molex to pcie (6+2) and use the extra 2 pin from that adaptor for my rx 6600 which i'm short a 2 more pin, because my psu only have 6 pin for gpu is it safe to use the extra 2 pin from the adaptor? I also have 750 watts psu
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So I got a new power supply unit, I think it was new Corsair RMX Shift 1200w Type 5 ATX 3.0 PSU at 80 Plus Gold rating. That should be enough for a 14900K and ASUS TUF RTX 4090 right? I'm not overclocking. Even my memory will be at most 5600MT/s. I'll have a 360mm AIO, 4 extra fans, and I have an ASUS ROG Maximus Z790 Dark Hero MB. I am extremely unfamiliar with watages and power draw things. I know the GPU alone can get up 450w power draw or something like that. But I dunno if I should return my PSU or I'll be fine. 1200w seems like the recommendation but I dunno how any of these PSUs work.
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My pc has started shutting off seemingly under load. I have no idea how to translate this wall of text into what the problem actually is. My current guess is the psu, but if one you knows what the issue is, please let me know. Thanks in advance! Lognavn: System Kilde: Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Power Dato: 12-12-2023 15:02:32 Hændelses-id: 41 Opgavekategori:(63) Niveau: Kritisk Nøgleord: (70368744177664),(2) Bruger: SYSTEM Computer: Draysh Beskrivelse: Systemet har genstartet uden først at lukke korrekt ned. Denne fejl kan skyldes, at systemet er holdt op med at svare, er gået ned, eller at strømmen forsvandt uventet. Hændelses-Xml: <Event xmlns="http://schemas.microsoft.com/win/2004/08/events/event"> <System> <Provider Name="Microsoft-Windows-Kernel-Power" Guid="{331c3b3a-2005-44c2-ac5e-77220c37d6b4}" /> <EventID>41</EventID> <Version>9</Version> <Level>1</Level> <Task>63</Task> <Opcode>0</Opcode> <Keywords>0x8000400000000002</Keywords> <TimeCreated SystemTime="2023-12-12T14:02:32.6649960Z" /> <EventRecordID>150934</EventRecordID> <Correlation /> <Execution ProcessID="4" ThreadID="8" /> <Channel>System</Channel> <Computer>Draysh</Computer> <Security UserID="S-1-5-18" /> </System> <EventData> <Data Name="BugcheckCode">80</Data> <Data Name="BugcheckParameter1">0xfffff906ad24c372</Data> <Data Name="BugcheckParameter2">0x10</Data> <Data Name="BugcheckParameter3">0xfffff906ad24c372</Data> <Data Name="BugcheckParameter4">0x2</Data> <Data Name="SleepInProgress">0</Data> <Data Name="PowerButtonTimestamp">0</Data> <Data Name="BootAppStatus">0</Data> <Data Name="Checkpoint">0</Data> <Data Name="ConnectedStandbyInProgress">false</Data> <Data Name="SystemSleepTransitionsToOn">0</Data> <Data Name="CsEntryScenarioInstanceId">0</Data> <Data Name="BugcheckInfoFromEFI">false</Data> <Data Name="CheckpointStatus">0</Data> <Data Name="CsEntryScenarioInstanceIdV2">0</Data> <Data Name="LongPowerButtonPressDetected">false</Data> <Data Name="LidReliability">false</Data> <Data Name="InputSuppressionState">0</Data> <Data Name="PowerButtonSuppressionState">0</Data> <Data Name="LidState">3</Data> </EventData> </Event>
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Alright. I've got about 90% of all my stuff for my personal rig I'm building. I've gotten myself a Corsair RM1200x SHIFT 80 PLUS Gold Fully Modular ATX Power Supply and I was wondering if I could replace the 140mm fan in it with this Corsair iCUE LINK QX140 RGB 140mm PWM PC Fan Expansion Kit really easily. It's going to be paired with a 4090 and a 14900K. Side note. 1200w at 80plus gold should be enough for my parts list right? If I don't overclock which I wasn't planning on doing. The PSU has never even been plugged in yet. I have 3 fans for intake, 4 fans for exhaust (3 on a rad), 3 fans on my GPU also doing work, and I just want my build to be consistant. However, if I don't have to, it's fine. I just want my fans to be RGB. Is it even safe to do so or should I just leave it as is? God knows I'd probably mess up 4 screws but I'd rather know the information ahead of time before I build my PC in a weeks time. (Still waiting on my AIO and OS to arrive but everything else in my parts list on my profile is in). Any and all help will be viewed and I'll get back to you tomorrow as it's 12:30AM EST and I got work at 7AM. Thank you in advance for this information. I'm an idiot and I don't know if it's dangerious to open a brand new never plugged in PSU or if I should play it safe and save an extra $50.
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Hi there, I’ve looked around quite a lot and plan to continue to do so but I figured I’d post here just incase as a day has gone by and I can’t seem to find a solution. I recently bought a Lian Li O11D mini to swap cases and bought a new Thermaltake Toughpower 1000w SFX. I also got the new V2 strimmer cables from Lian Li to swap out my V1’s. +3 new fans also. That’s it for the new parts. My other parts are: Msi b650 mortar Msi 3070 ti gaming x trio Ryzen 7 7800x3D 2TB Seagate Barracuda WD SN550 512GB SeaSonic 750w Corsair 220T BeQuiet Dark Rock 4 x6 BeQuiet case fans (now 9, using 3 splitters on motherboard, but everything was fine when I used 2 splitters beforehand) V1 Lian Li strimmers 2x16GB 6000 CL30 G.Skill trident z neo I had everything connected in my new case, including new PSU and PSU cables, but my system gives me a solid red cpu and solid orange dram light. I already took a look at CPU socket but it looks fine to me, but I’m not exactly sure what it’s supposed to look like, images attached. I moved the motherboard, with cpu, cooler and ram attached, so I don’t know if they would be the cause of the problem. However, I tried switching back to my old psu and now it doesn’t work either. I also tried CMOS battery twice and neither attempt fixed it, and I also let it sit to see if it was memory training. No results so far but I thought to ask here for help. Thanks
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Hello world, So a bit of backstory here: i built this rig back in 2020 and about a year later a brief power surge has damaged both my gpu (an asus rx560) and the motherboard's power circuitry (aorus b550) but kept working well with the replacements until recently: after a couple minutes of any above-idle gpu load the monitor starts showing no video but usually fixes after a full unplug poweroff. And it's not a software issue since it does the same thing under linux. The old mainboard did fail a month before the gpu so the psu is the only part that hasnt given me problems after the surge. I unfortunately don't have the tools to stress-test the psu but its stable unless i try using 10%+ of my gpu. Here are the current specs: Ryzen 7 3700x Gpu: MSI rx7600 mech 2x classic 8g oc Mainboard: ROG b450f gaming Psu: Corsair CX650M Hope that helps and much thanks in advance :)
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I have a Ryzen 5600 and a 6750xt. The graphics card official recommendation is a "650W or greater" PSU. So I bought the MSI PSU, but the 24 pin ATX cable is incredible hard to plug. I had to use all my strength for almost 1 hour and hurt my fingers just to plug the 10 + 18 pin cable to the PSU. The 18 pin side of the cable was the one requiring this ridiculous effort. But now it's being equally hard to plug it on the motherboard, and I think I'd prefer to not risk damaging it now (or latter when I have to remove the cable). So I think I'll just ask for a refund, but I'm not sure what PSU to buy. Should I still try another A650GF? It seems a great PSU, being tier A, gold, modular, 4 stars review on Tom's hardware, 10 years warrant, and being tested as okay in a benchmark test that compared it to the best PSUs. The worst complaints it got were about this cable thing and maybe a noisy fan. I'm okay spending about 50% more of A650GF price. But many says that you shouldn't overthink PSU, as long as it's tier A. So I don't know if I'd be overspending, or even if there's a better alternative.
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https://a.co/d/i0jzyfI im very sceptical about the price another psu I heard was amazing was https://a.co/d/2vpMcVE the prices are too good to be true right? the reviews are all good on them few misses but mostly good, is a good psu not supposed to be expensive or something? I would like a effiecient quality lasting psu. Anyone know any better or are these the cream of the crop for budget but also quality, thank you.
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Hello I recently bought the Noctua NF-A4x20 PWN to replace the Nidec Ultraflo fans in my PSU. When I now turn on the PSU it starts for like 3 seconds before shutting down and starting again. Can anyone please help me? I used this as a help.
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Doing my first build and have been struggling to get the ATX into the motherboard, I've been trying for 2 days now, I've tried to get help everywhere and everyone just tells me to push harder and wiggle, but I've been constantly pushing as hard as I can to the point the motherboard flexes and I've wiggled it plenty, and this is all the progress I can make. There is a little gap and you can see the clip doesn't get under to engage. Do I have a faulty cable or something? The pins are not bent, I attached a picture of them just to make it clear that is not the issue. This has been making my first build a nightmare, would've been one of the last steps before I can finally use it but I'm stuck because of this shit.
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Hello I recently bought a Supermicro Server chassis for my home Server and the Nidec fans in it are extremely loud, so I search for a Noctua replacement. Do you have any recommendations.
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I live in a country where power cuts are norm. The location I live in has 10+ power cuts daily. I have a sinewave Inverter for the whole house but it's reaponse time is around half a second which cause my pc to shut down. Anyway I could simply buy the best tier 1 650 watt PSU but since I have to allocate money for UPS too I am thinking about buying a corsair cv 650 (Corsair cx,cxm rm in 650w unavailable in india). The ups I am buying is APC bvx 1200VA. https://amzn.eu/d/1PqfPbD -
Mu understanding is that power cord are universal. 1)So can I use a 6a to 16a adaptor https://amzn.eu/d/f1aJ70s 2) there are also options for 6a to 16a convertor plug. Are they both same? They look same btw. 3 What's the benefit of using 6a instead of 16a or vice versa. Is 6a simply use for cost cuttings.
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I have a system with an Rtx 3080 and a Ryzen 9 3900x (I am aware of the bottleneck I just upgraded gpu) and was planning on getting a ryzen 7 5800x3d on Christmas for myself, and was wondering if I needed to upgrade my power supply. I just want to save as much money as possible, and I don't want to buy a 150$ psu for no reason. Help!
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I was re-cabling my computer and accidentally dislodged one of the pins from the plastic housing on my 14/10 pin to 24 pin ATX cable. I am able to push the pin all the way back inside the housing, although I am unsure how safe this is. Thankfully this is a modular power supply so I can replace the cable easily, but if possible I would like to reuse this. Can anybody advise? Thanks in advance!
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I want to buy a PSU for my PC. I have a minimal budget of 30-45 dollars. My PC Specs: Processor: AMD RYZEN 5 3600 Mainboard: MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max NVMe: Samsung EVO PLUS 500GB HDD: Seagate 3TB Graphic Card: Gigabyte GeForce® GTX 970 Extreme 4GD Monitor: LG 22MK600M UPS: Powerguard 1200VA I have picked two PSUs but when I looked at the tier list, found one at tier 6. The confusing fact is I heard Tier 5 is the last resort of a gaming rig. I want to play games and perform other tasks like browsing and emailing as well. The PSUs are as follows: Thermaltake Smart BM2 550W Semi-Modular Power Supply (Tier 6) Price - $45.83 Deepcool PK-D Series PK550D Non-Modular 550W 80 Plus Bronze Certified Black Power Supply (No Tier) - $43.33 What do you recommend?
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I've very recently purchased the MSI MPG A850GF and since I started using it I noticed a weird sound coming from it. Looking it up on the net I found various people with the same issue and their video proof had the exact same sound as mine does. Is that sound normal for this specific PSU? If not should I return it or will it be fine? I don't want it to damage anything as everything is practically brand new and expensive.
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