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dont no if this should be in build logs or console gaming i guess both or ether or hey this is my build log of hooking up consoles to a tv and the things to do and dont along the way. thing will be update and thing have happen that i didn't take a pic of. but when things are done ill get pics. consoles: nes famicom top loader: (with custom svideo/rca cable) svideo not working so its running composite why a famicom top loader? it has a multi out port. i have 2 dog bone controllers for it one im tying to make wireless with 8bitdo mod kit (battery cable too short...) aslo got a oem nes controller wireless 8bitdo kit with transparent orange buttons. will have 1 wired oem nes controller and dogbone. has everdrive n8 Snes: (with custom svideo/rca cable) svideo out cable my snes has a transparent smoke case. has a wireless 8bitdo snes controller with 8bitdo mod kit as well as wired snes controller with transparent orange buttons has super everdrive x5 N64: (with custom svideo/rca cable) svideo out cable has a has a transparent smoke case. but im looking for the fire orange... atm i have a 8bitdo wireless mod kit in a fire orange n64 controller with steel stick start button and 8bitdo joystick also have an orange n64 controller with steel stick mod joystick has everdrive 64 x5 gamecube: (with custom svideo/rca cable) svideo out cable but might switch it to hdmi dont no yet i have a orange gamecube swapped for English as well as an icedcube transparent orange gamecube that i think it can do component? it came with a scart cable but i dont no... i want to do mods to it like i got a 50mm fan for it. have a transparent orange wired controller and a orange shell swapped waive bird witch i need to cut slots in to still and swap the reserve shell over. i do have a media cd so sd card reading for a few emulators but meh. Sega genesis model 1 non hi def : with 75 Ohm Gold Plated AV Cable 4 Sega Genesis Model 2 + Model 1 Adapter, Retro Frog running composite might be an svideo out there i dont no got a wireless 8bitdo controller and a few wired controllers want to get the smoke shell for it but its costly... has mega ever drive Ps micro: with oem svideo cable have a brook wingman ps2 convertor to use my transparent orange ps3 controller i think not tested yet. i no there is a orange shell for the og ps but also cost alot atm Ps2: fat with hd component cable i have a transparent orange case but that system was broken and i gambled for a working one but got the wrong model... so ill have to buy another one... i got the better quality one thow so... i also have a ps2 slim also with a transparent orange shell but that too is broken and wrong model... also have a transparent orange wired controller og xbox the first xbox: a cheap component for now looks like there 2 good cable to buy but cost a bit but they all cost a bit so... has transparent orange shell no other mods done to it got a brook wingman xb2 with usb adapter to use a wireless controller with it what atm dont no. ya i no there a transparent orange controller dont no if ill find one... Wii: got a oem component cable for it it has a clear shell one it as well as a mod chip the wood thing w/e it was called... also have a black one i might play around with mods on it. i have a clear wii mote and an orange wii mote also have a oem orange rubber bumper for it... wiiu: hdmi i have a clear wii mote and an orange wii mote also have a oem orange rubber bumper for it... yellow metal cover for the pad xbox 360: hdmi have a orange shell controller i do have a water block for it... switch: hdmi have 2 transparent orange controllers and was putting in rgb...witch is a pita... dont recommend it. joy sticks are broken also have a transparent orange back cover got a HomeSpot TV Dock with Ethernet dock but its wired how it works so might change it out. i was looking at this one but dont no switch light gray: got a charging dock for it also got a transparent orange shell for it but its alot of work to swap it over so some day i might do it... involves removing the screen with a heat gun (witch i have) tv: curtis svideo,2 component, 2 composite, vga, hdmi would like to find a crt tv. i was going to hook everything thow a ossc but it added alot of distortion to the sviseo making it look like composite so that was a wast of moeny. i want a retro tink 5x or 4k but ya there vary costly but im in this deep right... you can buy retro tink 2x with muilty out and it will work with the nes,snes,n64 and gamecube with no lag but that $200 each and there like imposable to fine now... but that would have been the best way if you want to use the original console. there are hdmi nes and snes and i think genisies but there vary costly but so its buying cable so buying/moding a console so... imo a mini nes,snes,genices,ps is the way to go thow they cost a bit these days too and the fakes... eon made an adapter to hdmi for the og xboxs but it made it too dark so might be a new gen? but they too cost like $200 most consoles can be modded for rgb or hdmi but they too cost a bit. and its a waiting game on ebay looking for a deal. original plan was to put all the consoles in 2 server racks and use hdmi cable to an auto switcher but the cable are junk and add way too much input lag so a wast for $200. building in the server rack also became a pita as ow there alot of cables so i just got shelves. today i got a Kramer 8x8 S-Video Audio Matrix Switcher VS-808YC seems to work except for the nes... still need a way of hooking all the audio up. for the component its hooked up to 2 extron sw4 aw witch im looking to get a 8 or 16 crosspoint that can also do audio but it works for now. for composite its hooked to an sima svs 4d my nes and sega genesis for now also has 4 svideo but dose not look vary good i think its dying... i have a legend le316r (with box) witch works with svideo and 2 component but only has 4 svideo myTouchSmart Wireless Programmable Outdoor/Indoor Digital Timer with Remote for power on and off only works with one per house any more would get you more remotes and base but will be on the same timer... for power atm i just have a big TROND Surge Protector Power Bar but i want to have on/off power for each console so im looking at something like this. some pics are old and need updating. dreamcast is sold... 8bitdo Sn30 2.4g smoke 8bitdo Pro 2 Bluetooth smoke orange spice gamecube controller with transparent black buttons gray switch lite wii classic pro monster hunter wii classic (would like a black one) nes shooter gray and orange transparent orange gamecube controller with transparent black buttons snes with transparent orange buttons ps3 duel shock 3 with transparent orange shell swap transparent orange dreamcast sega genesis turbo orange n64 with steel stick oem joystic black top orange shell 360 controller orange rubber wiiu game pad also have a yellow hard shell for it braws transparent orange n64 controller transparent orange pelican gamecube switch pro witch orange shell swap nes with transparent orange buttons (one wireless with 8bitdo mod kit) transparent orange ps2 transparent orange n64 with steel stick star button v3 joystick (atm has 8bitdo mod kit with joysick) joycon switch orange shell broken joysticks black wii numchuck orange shell orange gc c stick poofesure orange wii controller (youtuber rager...) orange shell swap wavebird with transparent black buttons orange ps3 dule shock 3 no pic yet: orange nyxi wizard nes dogbone tv setup witch server rack gray switch lite transparent orange dreamcast vmu transparent orange wii shell orange gc wavebired receiver transparent orange icedcube gamecube orange dsi orange wii rubber wiiu pad with orange rubber orange dsi case cheap wii orange rubber switch with orange joycons smoke gamecube memory card clear wii shell with mod chip wood ps2 slim orange shell (wrong model) transparent orange switch lite shell

I like playing PS2 games and occasionally Wii games. I also like to see what I’m doing and where I’m going. The resolution for both my Wii and PS2 is capped at 480i and they don’t seem to want to fit to the TV’s aspect ratio. When I try to change the settings on the PS2 it sort of works, but when I go into a game it doesn’t work so well, especially for NFS Most Wanted. What I mean is I usually have to zoom in on the picture on the TV, and then reset the zoom when I go into a game because I can’t see half of it. I am also using a Fosmon AV splitter as I only have room for on AV cable on the back of my TV, but I didn’t really run into this issue until I got a new TV (my old one was at most probably 720p, and I’m now using a 1080p tv) Any ideas for what I could do? If an upscaler isn’t the answer I’d be happy to know what else I could do. (I know this post might be a bit of a mess, I also didn’t really know where to go for answers)

Hi, I recently bought a SCPH-50004 PS2 with a matrix modchip. This is my first ever experience with burning any games tho, idk if I'm doing something wrong or if the laser might just be trash, since I didn't have any way of testing it since I don't own any real PS2 games. What I did was to download a PS2 game ISO and then burn it onto a x16 speed DVD-R at x8 speed using ImgBurn, now when I put the disc in the console I can hear a couple clicks and after some time the clicks will stop, after some more time the console shows a disc reading error. anything im doing wrong or what is it? grateful for any help I might get cheers

I have the samsung chromebook 4+ and I wanna see if it could run giogio's bizarre adventure lol

Mistakenly bought a Fanatec Speedster Pure for PS2 off of eBay, then subsequently purchased a PS2-USB adapter for it, any ideas on how I could get this to work with pc in order to play games such as BeamNG drive?

I wanna play GioGio’s bizarre adventure on the bus

I am looking into getting a ps3, and I would like to know if it is backwards compatible with earlier PlayStation games. I mainly want to play the old gran turismo games and the early resident evil games. Thanks!

So I am currently at my local used games store and I have enough money for either a GameCube, a wii with almost every accessory, a ps2, a ps3, or an Xbox 360. I need help choosing because I’m indecisive as all hell. Just something to note though, I do not have an Xbox account, and I do not want to pay for Xbox live, however the games on it might be good enough to warrant a purchase of Xbox live. thanks for helping me choose

Hi all, Budget (including currency): $500 Country: United States Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Max settings for 2017 and earlier games (because going to play modern AAA titles on PS5); PS2 era and earlier emulation When: Within 6 months Existing parts: AMD Ryzen 5 5600X 3.7 GHz 6-Core Processor Corsair Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory MSI Radeon RX 580 4 GB ARMOR OC Video Card EVGA 550 B5, 80 Plus BRONZE 550W, Fully Modular BitFenix Prodigy Mini ITX Tower Case Going to buy: Gigabyte B550I AORUS PRO AX Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard Possible upgrade: Switch out existing PSU for: EVGA SuperNOVA GM 450 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular Aim: Eventually I am going to cannibalize my mATX build for an mITX build because I like the portability/space saving of smaller builds (although I've never built one before). Going to be used for 2017 and earlier pc gaming at max settings (because I will be playing modern AAA titles on PS5). I also want to emulate PS2 era titles and earlier with shaders. Monitors/peripherals: 1080p monitor, wireless keyboard and mouse, wired headset Thank you for any tips or insight you can give!

When I was on my console kick a while back, I actually forgot at the time to ask about a topic which I hadn't given much thought to: audio. But better late than never, right? Now, the consoles that I have are the PS2 Slim, a Wii U, & the original Nintendo Switch. As for the PS2, I know I can get audio out of it by simply using the AV Multi Out to RCA cable if I were to hook up to like an older tube/crt tv. No problem. And if I chose to use it with like a modern flat-screen tv in the future, thankfully I have that RCA to HDMI converter/adapter that I got off of Amazon. But since the Wii U has a different type of AV Multi Out port on it, I was wondering if any cables for it exist if I wanted to get audio out of it? Also, I think if I remember correctly that HDMI can provide audio as well, but not sure if it's dependent on like the version or whatever. [Feel free to correct me IF I'm wrong.] But yeah, I just want to explore all viable options on that. And finally, for the Nintendo Switch, I know it has a headphone jack on it & some pretty okay sounding speakers, but I'm not sure if it actually has Bluetooth or not. Still, since I have to use my monitor as a display for some of my console needs, it's not too big of a deal. My only concern with using the Switch with my monitor is if I could connect my speaker to it if I wanted better sound? For anyone wondering, I recently bought myself the LG UltraGear GP9 after watching the ShortCircuit video on it & seeing other really good reviews for it, I felt like it would be the perfect addition to my setup since I've been needing speakers for SO LONG! Anyway, I'm glad I finally decided to ask by putting this out there getting it off my chest since it didn't occur to me at the time. Like always, if any of you happen to have any questions for me or need more details, please be sure to ask & I will answer back. Thanks in advance!

What are these symbols after the mastering code?? Do they have any meaning??

Can someone please explain ps2 hardware specifications for me? I have to present a PowerPoint on the ps2

Hi. I'll be brief: My computer won't boot into an OS (W10 in this case) unless I have just and only one stick of RAM installed on the MOBO at any time. It doesn't matter which stick or sloth I use, they all work (or at least seem to), but if I put both stick in any sloth at the same time the PC freezes on startup (happened during install too ). One other odd thing is that the computer doesn't reconize the PS2 keyboard, from startup. The keyboard flashes, but doesn't work, and after a while is stops flashing. CPU: a10 7850k RAM: 2x2 1333Mhz DDR3 MOBO: ASUS A88XM-A HDD: 1TB WD BLUE PSU: SHARKOON SHP 500W Bronze+ (never cheap out on the PSU, lucky this one was on sale at €40! ) Case: Yes GPU: one that has never given any problem.

i have been fixing broken ps2 slims lately. most of them were easy fixes, but one of them really confused me. if i put a ps2 game in it, it will spin, stop, spin again, stop..... and keep doing this until it gives up. i see the laser through the disk, so i believe the laser is fine. i did replace the laser with a new after market one, but that made things worse. it is possible that that aftermarket laser is also bad. it is also not the closed lid sensor in the back, as that has been bypassed (they commonly fail, so i always remove them and bypass them). another weird thing is that it plays ps1 games just fine. does anyone have any idea what it could be?

Title says it all. I'm wondering what's best to do, and whether unplugging it will have a big impact on the lifespan of the consoles. I've seen some things that say leaving it plugged in will wear out the power supply over time, and other things that say leaving it unplugged is bad for the capacitors in the power supply. Which should I be more worried about? And is there any difference between unplugging the PS2 and switching off the power supply on the back (which is what I usually do)? Obviously that isn't a choice with the Xbox. Thanks in advance for any input that can be provided!

Thought it was a pretty cool feature to have in games like Ace Combat, pressing the button hard meant using your boost. Press button hard, plane goes faster! Was a bit clunky in Metal Gear Solid 2 though where it made the difference between crouching and crawling, that was pretty rubbish.

Hi I bought a used PS2 controller off eBay last year and noticed a gap on the side of the controller. I tried tightening the screws inside the holes but there is still a gap. One screw is missing on the top right. I got a screw from my broken PS2 controller and tried to screw it in but no matter what it would not screw in. First photo shows the gap and second photo shows the hole for the screw (it’s missing a screw), the other photos show the holes with screws in.

Hey all! So I have my old PS2 controller alongside a PC converter to make it playable on PC. It works fine for the most part, apart from the button designations that don't display the Playstation button symbols like "Square", "R1", "L1", "Start", etc., but it displays them as "Button 1", "Button 3", etc. Is there a way to change how they are displayed? I tried navigating the Devices & Printers in the Control Panel, but all I found was only the testing if all the buttons are working. Looking forward for some replies. Cheers!! P.S.: I don't have a PS3/ PS4/ XBox/ XBox One controllers because I've never had those consoles. I only have my PS2 from back in the day.

I recently decided to start a new project using my PS2. I thought it would be cool to be able to hook the PS2 up to my PC monitor, and be able to switch between using my PC and PS2 at my desk. My monitor (An Acer SB220q) has two ports - an HDMI and a VGA. Since the HDMI port is used by my computer, my initial instinct was to find an adapter that would convert the RCA output from the PS2 to VGA. However, after a bit of research, I found that it is very difficult to convert RCA to VGA, and would require a special active adapter that costs around $100. Instead, I managed to find this adapter (see link) which plugs directly into the PS2 and converts it to HDMI and AUX out. Since I already had a displayport to VGA adapter and a VGA cable lying around, I figured I could plug my PC into the VGA port, and the PS2 into the HDMI port. However, I discovered that plugging my PC into the VGA port greatly decreased the image quality, and caused this strange wavy effect (I'm not sure what to call it). As a last resort, I decided to buy an HDMI switcher, which would allow me to use both devices on the monitor through HDMI. While this setup does work, the HDMI switcher seems to have caused an unforeseen problem. It seems as though power is able to travel through the switcher between the PC and the PS2's HDMI adapter. The PS2's adapter is an active adapter, and requires being plugged into a USB port. Strangely, when my PC is off and the adapter is receiving power (which happens when the PS2 is on since the adapter is powered by the PS2's USB port) the case fans on my PC begin to spin at a low speed. This even happens when my PC's power supply is turned off. As soon as I unplug the HDMI cable from my PC, or turn off the PS2, the fans stop spinning. While it is somewhat annoying, this isn't a huge deal to me. What's more concerning is what happens when the PC is on while the PS2 is off. If the PS2 is off, and I turn on my PC, something begins to make a high-pitched, almost inaudible squealing noise. I can't tell if it's coming from the adapter or the PS2 itself. In addition to this, the lights on the wireless controller adapter for the PS2 turn on, even though the PS2 is off. It seems as though the PC is sending power to the adapter through the HDMI port, which is then sending power into the USB port on the PS2, and causing it to malfunction. If I simply unplug the USB cable from the PS2, the issues go away. My current solution to the problem is to simply keep the adapter unplugged while the PS2 is off. This prevents the PS2 from going haywire when the PC is turned on. However, it is somewhat annoying having to plug in and unplug the USB every time I use the PS2. It seems as though the best solution is to eliminate the need for the HDMI splitter somehow, as it seems to be the cause of all the problems. There are three possible solutions I've thought up, and I would appreciate any input on the viability of these options. Perhaps its possible that the VGA input from my PC looked so bad because either the adapter was bad, or the VGA cable itself was so old. If I got a new cable and/or adapter, or even a displayport to VGA cable like this one here, is it possible that the PC display would look better using the VGA input on the monitor? Maybe the HDMI splitter I got is somehow faulty. Is power supposed to be able to travel between the devices the way it is? Maybe if I got a new or better splitter it would fix the issue. The most likely solution to work is unfortunately the one where I wait it out. I know I'm going to want to upgrade my monitor at some point and use my old monitor for a dual-monitor setup. When I get my new monitor, I can just make sure that it has either two HDMI ports, or an HDMI and displayport input. Any input on whether any of these options would work would be appreciated. If there's another solution you can think of, I'd love to hear it as well.

Budget (including currency): tbc Country: uk Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: gaming Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): Hi all. I'm hoping you guys might be able to help. I've got a shuttle sz87r6 with an i5 4570, 16gb ram, 500w psu and gtx 770. No cd drive. It works perfectly for what want (gaming at medium settings ish, Web, media etc). It's a nice case but I'm also a big retro gaming fan. What do you think of how well I could put this into a ps2 fat shell? The psu would be an issue I suspect, and potentially the gtx 770 too because of their size. Hopefully someone or a few people could give me a few pointers on how to fix the mother board safely inside (assuming it's small enough), and the gfx card too. If the gfx card is too big, I will measure for a low profile 1050ti. But what can I do about the psu? Any other points to consider? Thank you in advance Mike

Hi, this is my first post, so if this is kinda bad, plz don't judge me. So, I was clearing out my Grandpa's house and then I found something.... The original Microsoft Intellimouse from 1996! I wanted to sell it, but I found no reference for it. I saw one that was newer and costed 95€, but how I've said, it's newer than mine. For how much can I sell it? Under the Microsoft logo is the text "with Intellieye" and on the right side is a cross. (Look at the picture from wikipedia) The thing is: It is white and looks brand new! It has even an original packaging! The adapter is there still too. How I've said: Do you know for how much I could sell it? It still works, btw Thx already!

So pretty much I found this in a very old drawer and cant find anything about the 6 online, does anyone know?

So I have been tasked with repairing a bunch of PS2s, mostly slims. My boss is under the impression that PS2s are of the devil and that all of the models of slims require different hardware. I don't believe that they do, but I would I would rather not have to check each model number EVERY TIME I repair one so I was wondering if anyone has any insight on the repair of PS2s in general, but more specifically PS2 Slims. Help is wonderful, but please, only leave a suggestion if you actually know what you're talking about. Thanks!

Hello, I just got a new rack mountable monitor and keyboard but it doesnt have the adapter for the keyboard to ps2. Would any of you be able to help me find the adapter I need. I've been searching for a while but came up with nothing. The model for the monitor is GFS-1510a.

Ok, so I'm not a newbie by any means to software, hardware, builds, and modding; but im very far from a pro. I recently had an idea that works in my head, but I cant figure out how I can do it well. I have a fat ps2 (scph 39001 no expansion) and a ps3 slim (160gb) I'm soon going to buy a ps4, but I dont know weather or not I should buy the original fat ps4 model, or the slim; depending on which will suit this build better. (I have no personal need for the pro) So here's the plan; an all in one "playstation." ps2 and ps3 run the native ps1 titles by themselves, so I dont need the ps1. The plan is to take all of the components out of the ps2, ps3, and ps4, to to fit into a custom PC case. I'm thinking 3 disk drive slots (one for each system) and maybe finding a way to run all 3 on 1 power supply, along with optimal cooling (water cooled maybe?) I know in the end it will still need 3 different display outputs... the ps2 will stay stock, maybe add the expansion or mod to a sata hdd. The ps4 will remain stock, for psn and stuff like that. The ps3 I plan to soft/hard mod, but that is all in due time. I cant figure out where to begin with this mod.. I think finding a case suitable for the job may be my first step. What do you guys think? What are your thoughts? I want this to be a unique, but visually satisfying build, with alot of versatility. Any thoughts are much appreciated!