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Found 36 results

  1. So my HP Envy 5330 series Inkjet printer has started to print blanks I have already tried refilling the cartridges (for the first time) and ensuring they are not clogged. Any suggestions as to what I can do???
  2. Hi, guy's I'm looking for program to: - print multiple .pdf at once (up to 500 files would be briliant) - efectivelly edit xml files (clear and organised,) - program which can insert values from excell to pre done .xml file ( according to the specific scheme) I would be glad to hear any suggestion's.
  3. Hey guys, can someone tell me what exactly Serigraphic Insertions in printing are? I am not sure If I understand it correctly. Thanks in advance.
  4. Hi. Kyle here. I am trying to install Cura 15.04.2 and am not having any luck. I went to the GitHub page with the old versions and found this. https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura/releases/tag/15.04.2 I downloaded and extracted the .zip file on my Windows 10 PC but I cannot find any way to run it. Is this the wrong thing? Or am I just not seeing it. Please help. Thanks, Kyle.
  5. I have a RICOH MP C401 copier/scanner/printer connected via USB to a Vostro 200 running Windows 10. Problem is, Windows fax and scan and Adobe Acrobat refuse to detect the scanner. I can print to it perfectly fine, and I've downloaded all the drivers I can get. Any help? I'm aware dealing with printers can be obnoxiously difficult, but I'm hoping something can be done. I'm pretty literate with computers, so any info you need, I can supply.
  6. I am having trouble with a machine that was printing blocks of ink instead of text. Did a fresh install of windows and the problem persists. This only happens when printing a document on the computer locally. If I print from the internet (Chrome) using system dialogue or built in print everything prints perfectly normally. Anything printed from the computer itself does this... odd thing. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated. As fast as I can tell from settings related to fonts etc everything is normal. Machines are all running Windows 10 EDIT: All machines on the network have the exact same issue. Printing a local document prints like this, anything printed via a web service prints correctly.
  7. I setup this printer after not using it for a while. It did a print test and alignment just fine. I printed labels and they weren't fully printed, like it was running low on ink, and there was white lines throughout. After double checking the ink, I tried to print the labels again and it sent out a blank page. I did some troubleshooting, however, I've been unable to find or solve the problem. If anyone could help me figure this out, I would really appreciate it. It was just working fine. I would love to know what happened. I have more than half a cartridge of black ink, and only black ink, although I have the other cartridges in their spot I turned the printer off and on again. I reset the factory settings. I tried tried to print from the printer by using Align Printer and it still sends out only a blank page. I have reinstalled the drivers and ran all test provided by HP. I ran the printhead cleaner 3 times with 2nd level cleaning. I took the ink cartridge out and touched it with a paper towel to confirm it wasn't dry. I updated the firmware. I changed the preference to print grayscale.
  8. Probably a little too specific for most folks but I've hit a dead end. Hi folks, I'm an IT tech and we work next door to a commercial printers who are running into more and more problems with their ageing HP Proliant ML150 G2 server running Server 2003 with software called Trueflow V4. This software was made by a company called Screen who stopped support for this software many years ago and according to them, was configured to the specific server and plate printing machine. This is the backbone of the business and when there is an issue with the server, they can't print. This has been happening more and more times of recent. They want some sort of backup of the system so if this dies, we can fire up a secondary machine and operate uninterrupted with that. We bought a second identical system which proceeded to blow the PSU and mobo upon connecting it to power for the first time. The hard drive is connected via a RAID card and is using a U320 SCSI connector with only one drive. My first plan was to clone the drive onto a spare we purchased, but neither drive is picked up with any cloning software I can load up. This is one of the priorities, just to keep the data safe in case of HDD failure. The company has all the installation disks and I'd love to start afresh on a newer machine with something like Windows 7, install the software onto that, but it appears it is only compatible with Server 2003. A new up to date set up with the latest software and hardware has been quoted at over £20,000 which is not feasible in their current position as a business. Anyone with printing knowledge would be greatly appreciative of your help!
  9. Hello guys, I have to do a 80x167 (centimeters) image that will be printed and apllied on a shop window. The thing is, I inserted the centimeters in Photoshop and it automatically converted to pixels (4734 x 2268). What I would like you guys to help me with is: 1) Is this resolution enough so it won't look pixelated? 2) I tried to figure it out as DPI how much is it, and I think it's 72 DPI, is this ok for a picture that size to be printed in this resolution? Thanks alot guys, I don't have experience with this, I have to send the project to a company so they will print it. Thanks again.
  10. I usually use Adobe Acrobat Reader DC to print 11 x 17 documents. Its engineering documents so it needs to be printed real size, with automatic portrait or landscape orientation. The thing I totally hate with this program is that you can't change the default paper size. Letter is set as default and I very rarely use it. I'd like to have the paper size set to ledger (11 x 17) permanently, closing or shutting down the PC. Couldn't find how yet. I have Foxit Reader, but I find it confusing. There is so many options and its not very clear weither I'm printing true size or not, and I didn't find how to set my preferences there either. It just seem to reset every time I close it down. TLDR: I'd like a very simple PDF reader that saves my default printing preferences permanently even if I close and shutdown my PC. Tried Foxit reader, didn't helped.
  11. Hello. not sure if this is the right place to ask, but given how ltt and css have 3dprinted stuff in the past, i thought it would be as good a place as any. so quick question: is there any service that allows you to send in an object to have scanned into a 3d model? i recently got a new back panel for my old alienware machine. the old m15x-r1 is known for having hinge mounting weaker than pretzels, and epoxy reinforcement is absolutely required if you plan on ever opening and closing the screen more than twice. i was thinking if i could send in the weak plastic rear panel, could i have it scanned into a 3d blender file to use a 3d printing service to get it in either a stronger plastic compound or even metal? computer part in question i got that i'd like a stronger version of: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA9AX6MV0822&cm_re=m15x-_-9SIA9AX6MV0822-_-Product
  12. I have just bought an Acer CXI 2 Chromebox for my wife to check her emails and go on ebay with, unfortunately she wants to add our old Pantum 2010 printer. My question is can I use windows drivers for this or will a new printer be needed that can run off of Google cloud printing, maybe I could add our printer to cloud printing. Any help would be welcome as my knowledge of printing with the Chromebox is minimal....
  13. My current occupation is an assistant for a practicing doctor. One of my tasks is sorting and printing the charting notes that this doctor creates for each patient visit. This doctor uses a personal template he has created in Microsoft Word 2013 as a skeleton for each of his charting notes. Each individual charting Word file is labeled as so: Last name of patient, First name Date of visit. The number of notes for each person varies depending on how long the person's stay was. Here's my issue. These charting notes are produced at a large rate and my current printing method feels inefficient and way to prone to human error. My current printing method is as follows: 1. Open file explorer to the area where all the charting notes are organized into sub-folders by month they were made. Select the desired month. 2. Click and highlight the all the notes that were made for an individual person in that month. Right click on the selected files and click Print. This will print those selected files, but they will come out in a random order from the printer. 3. Repeat step 2 for the all the charting notes for each individual in that months folder. The outcome of all this is a printer tray with a stack of semi-organized patient charting notes. Each individual's group of charting notes will be together in the stack, but they will be in a random order. As said before, each file has the date of the visit on the end of it to keep the files organized. When they come out of the printer the files that were highlighted and selected to be printed together will come out in the same section of the stack, but their order will be randomized. I don't know why this happens. The printer spooler also only seems to have so much space. Sometimes there's over a hundred files for a single person that needs to be printed but the highlight and print method only allows for about a maximum of about 54 files to be highlighted at a time before it just seems to not register the files after that and doesn't print them. This is also why I can't just highlight all the files in a folder and print them at once. If I did, people's charting notes would be mixed, and most of them wouldn't print anyway. So here's what I'm asking. Would anyone know of a program that can make this printing process easier? Something where I could open it, select all the files I wanted to print, hit print, and it would keep the order of the files as they are in Windows Explorer. Or a setting I can change in Windows to make this all simpler. Printer: Brother Black only Laser Printer I wasn't sure which forum to ask this question at but this community seemed like the best place to start. Thanks in advance for any help.
  14. Sooo, When i want to Print out a Word Document(or really any document) it doesn´t function. I can click on the print button, and the dialogue will close, but it won´t save the pdf (in case of Microsoft Print to Pdf) or will print it out ( In case of using a printer). This error doesn´t only occur when I´m using word but also out of programs like google docs or adobe reader.. Im on the latest version of Windows 10. Anybody a idea what the error could be ?
  15. I had this idea of taking a character from a game, like a custom made player character, and exporting it somewhere and having it actually 3D PRINTED, and have it set on my desk or something. However, for one, I don't know if this is possible. Second, aren't there copyright laws that prevent this from being done? I hope this is possible, I'd kill to have Skyrim figures custom made!
  16. I was looking to try printing wood filament (MGChemicals). I have a Monoprice Maker Select V2 with stock everything. I know that wood filament is very abrasive and I was going to upgrade the brass nozzle. I plan on buying it off of amazon. Highlubricity makes a nozzle that is 0.6mm (People recommend .5+ for wood), but as far as I can tell, it is brass with a nickel plating. https://www.amazon.com/High-Lubricity-Resistant-Nozzle-Upgrade/dp/B00ZMX... Is nickel plating as good as stainless steel? Has anyone used MGChemicals wood pla?
  17. In Linus's homemade router video, he mentioned that Taran modeled a shroud for the cooling. What program did he use, and how much money do I need to shell out for said program?
  18. Hi guys, I have old printer which was sitting on a closet and I needed something to print so I tried to print something and I install drivers again and connected everything so i tried to print image and it didn't "swallowed" paper so what could be the problem and how can I fix it if it is possible? Printing machine is Canon PIXMA MP 240. Thanks guys!!!
  19. Does such a service/business where you can download the necessary plans to 3D print a computer case with a certain 3D printer with specific materials exist yet? Or is it still in the future for now? I'm just curious. Hopefully this is not a duplicate thread.
  20. I've had my 3D printer for a while and I've started to run out of ideas that I can model for it, I decided to draw a picture and now I'm wondering how I can convert it to an STL file or anything that can be opened in a slicer. I have Paint.net and inkscape as image software, blender and c4d for making/rendering models, and I use cura as my slicer software. Any help would be great!
  21. So i am kinda bored and want to print something, thats under like 3 hours so keep it kinda small.
  22. So I preface this by saying that I am a photographer, and for most paid and corporate work I use a printing company. However I do have a high quality printer for my own personal work and in case I need to provide a client with a print quicker than I could use in third party company. One thing that is very difficult to find out, and I'm assuming perhaps difficult to test as well, is the real difference between third party, cheap, thinks that are available on Amazon and eBay, and those that printer companies officially sell themselves. I have myself tested this a few times across a couple of printers. My own opinion was that the quality of the final product relied more heavily on the quality of the paper and not that of the ink. However, there was no real 'Science' to my tests. I could see this kind of investigation being perfect for Luke's workshop series and/or a great video for somebody like Brandon who has an interest in photography and videography. I have considered printing the same image using official inks, and unofficial thinks and then leaving them in somewhere like a conservatory to see how they fair against constant direct sunlight. The problem is, to do this I would need two separate, identical printers with two sets of different inks in them. I have done a little bit of searching are crossed Google and YouTube, and despite many opinion pieces, there is very little content about it. Again another reason why I think this would make a great video and would probably draw eating a lots of viewers from the photography community
  23. Do you have a 3D printer? If this poll already exists than I am sorry, I did not know.
  24. So I'm curious on what others think about 3d scanning. I honestly love 3d scanning and I use it alot when messing around in source engine or unity. It's seriously a powerful form of modeling which takes very quick for it to render a 3d image. Now, I am aware of there being tons of ways to 3d scanning. From professional grade 3d scanners to tinkers 3d scanners and even to economic 3d scanning. Examples of each of these are: Professional 3d Scanner- http://store.makerbot.com/digitizer.html?&utm_campaign=&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&keyword=&placement=&device=c&utm_creative=&gclid=CjwKEAjwmZWvBRCCqrDK_8atgBUSJACnib3luAjhd_Gl38PjCY2utzlfup6mnswv0jv4yIGRvoUuIhoCViDw_wcB Tinkers- https://store.structure.io/ Economic- Using a xbox 360 kinect Out of these selected examples I used the xbox 360 kinect with a vinyl record player to spin the object on a plate and the results for it are pretty impressive seeing how you can pick these up for 10-20 dollars now. Results: I also scanned my brother but after the spongebob one and setting it up he was pretty unhappy and wanted to stop for the night which you can see in the scan him being pissed off The results may not look that impressive but for a kinect it's pretty damn good. For scanning a person I used a office chair but I know a bar stool would be 1000x better since I wouldn't need to cut out the back of the chair. The spongebob one still has the base from the turn table on it because I got lazy. Other than removing the office chair from the picture of my brother, I did not edit these at all and the program exported the colors out of it. A downside to the kinect scanning though is the fact that it can be messy and can't scan small objects such as an action figure. I tried testing these out on a godzilla figurine and a teenage mutant ninja turtle but to no avail. The tmnt wouldn't even scan properly and the godzilla figure's head was missing. This is when a professional grade 3d scanner would come into play because the cameras on those are a hella' lot better than a 20 dollar kinect camera. An upside with a kinect though is scanning huge 3d objects like a couch or a table. It's completely possible and tomorrow I plan to try it out on furniture for the first time. The program I use for the kinect scanning is called Skanect (http://skanect.occipital.com/) and there is a free and paid version. The difference is the free can't export colors/textures and can only export 2000 faces. The 2000 faces export is what my brother looks like in the scan. So let me know in the comments what your thoughts are about the concept of 3d scanning.
  25. 3D Printers: An Introduction to Buying and Using 3D Printers Intro This thread is to serve as a central location to information regarding 3D printers and how to use them. The reason is that there is no central, detailed, location that thoroughly explains what a 3D printer is, how to pick one, what too look for when buying, how to operate, and achieve a successful print. I will be going through every facet of 3D printing including what is a 3D printer, to completing your first big print. This page may be routinely update periodically as new information arises. Every bit of information is my own thought from my own personal experience. If I get something wrong just pm and ill make corrections. Let us begin on our journey through the world of 3D printing. What is a 3D Printer? You must be interested in 3D printing if you have made it to this paragraph. Some of you may have heard about it, how it can make tools, or you may have even seen one, but what exactly is 3D printing? 3D Printing is defined as: a process for making physical objects from three-dimensional digital model, typically by laying down many successive layers of a material until the desired model is constructed. 3D printing is revolutionizing the way R&D is done. It took weeks to prototype new products and was often very expensive. Now, companies can produce prototypes in just a few hours. In its basic form, 3D printers are a robotic machine that is comprised of servo motors and an extruder. These two tools used in unison are what product the product. But what is the product made of exactly? What is Filament? 3D printers use a variety of filament. The two primary filaments are made of PLA or ABS. PLA is polylactic acid or polylactide. It is a biodegradable thermoplastic derived from resources such as corn starch, roots, or sugar cane. This is why some people say that during printing, PLA gives off a bit of a sweet aroma. The PLA is extruded into a thin line called filament that is wound on a spool for easy transport and unwinding. The other major filament is made of ABS, acrylonitrile butadiene styrene. It is a thermoplastic polymer that is often used in the production of automotive parts, as well as everyone's favorite, Legos. Other materials include PET, Nylon, and PVA. PLA and ABS are the two primary and often suffice for personal project. The other material is more often used for special products where a desired specific outcome is necessary. What is The Best Printer to Buy? What is the best printer to buy? This is a complicated question that is often asked by people who want to take a dive into 3D printing but have no clue where to start. First off, no 3D printer is the right printer. Every printer has its pros and cons and not a single printer will be able to meet every single one of your unknown needs. I will go into detail a little bit later about the problems associated with 3D printing and how to rectify these problems. There will be overlapping information as pros and cons and problems and solutions also aid in the what makes a good printer and how to improve prints, which will be discussed later on. I will cover fundamental necessary parts that make or break your experience with 3D printing. The first thing to determine when buying a printer is: what is your budget. Budget is the primary factor of choosing a printer. At the time of writing this you can buy a $300 HICTOP Prusa I3 printer, or a MakerBot Replicator for about $3,000. The reason this is the major factor is because the $300 printer does not come with all the bells and whilst that a $3000 printer does. It is the equivalent to buying a 4-wheeler vs range rover. Both will get you up the mountain but the journey is what makes the difference. The second thing to determine is print area size. It typically cost the same weather you have 100x100x100mm print area or a 1000x1000x1000mm print area. However, larger print areas require more fine tuning to ensure level print surface. The choice really comes down to how much space do you have. The third factor is the XYZ axis movements. While this does not seem like a major factor, it very much is. The best printer's print bed either move in the Z axis or do not move at all. You maybe asking why is this. If the print bed moved in the X or Y axis, you risk your print breaking off of falling over due to the sudden and quick movements of the print bed. This can be best illustrated with a skateboard. A skateboard does not have a motor or brakes. The wheels move frictionlessly over the ground. Now say you are standing on a motionless skateboard and someone comes along and pushes the board with their foot. simple physics says that you head is going to stay in the same spot while the board pulls your feet out from under your body. The motion will be transferred upward toward your head until the forces equalize. Unfortunately your feet aren't attached and your head hits the ground with a thud. The same thing happens when the print bed moves in the X and Y axis. This is generally not an issue if you are printing slow or the product is not very tall with a lot of little details. The fourth factor is a heated bed. The heated bed is a near essential piece. First, I am going to cover the results of printing without a heated bed. When you print without a heated bed you need to use some sort of material in between the raw print bed and the product. Most people have found the blue painters tape works best as the filament will stick decent to the tape and the tape can be pulled up without leaving sticky residue behind. Plus painters tape can be reused a few times before needed to be replaced. When buying painters tape, the wider the tape, the better the results. Because the filament is a thermoplastic it means that it is heated up to a melted state and quickly cooled which causes it to harden in place. but because the outside of the new layer cools quicker on the outside than the inside touching the previous layer you develop some warping. The force of the warping increases with each layer and can force the first layer to either detach from the tape or peal the the tape up. both with will result in a print breaking off or failing entirely. This is where the heated bed come in. You do not need to use tape as the heated bed is an ideal surface for prints plus it keeps the first few layer warm enough to avoid this warping and allows the first layer to maintain a sticky state to ensure that it does not peel up. The fifth factor is the machine itself. There are minimalistic printers that only consist of the axis and the motherboard to run the machine. There are some that are an enclosure that also acts as the support for the axis. The best is one with an enclosure. The downside to an enclosure is that you cannot fix a print that is about to fail. The advantages of the enclosure is that prints have better results. results improve because the enclosure created a warm or hot environment which keeps the entire print warm and sticky which means less warping or a great chance of success. By now you must be asking me, “Which printer has these features as is affordable?” Well, the Printer market has been receiving new printers every year and each one is a little different in how things operate. What I have just covered are some of the most important feature in a printer. The rest I would classify as cosmetic matters such as nozzle size, lcd with buttons, or remote connections like using an sd card. If you want a good 3D printer that will make perfect prints I would suggest going for a more high end that includes all the major factors I have listed. You Just Bought Your First Printer so you have just bought your first printer; now what. First find a good location for your printer. because printers have fast moving parts you’ll want a desk that is solid. Then crack open the instructions that came with your printer on how to set it up. If the instructions are anything like the one that came with mine it will be less intuitive than peeling an orange. Therefore, I will cover some basic information about setting up for your first print. Setting Up Your Printer Setting up for your first print can seem a little daunting. You are thrown a wealthy of knowledge that for the most part, you probably will never need. Most printers come pre assembled and ready to print out of the box. Something may shift during shipping as its likely you may need to calibrate your computer to work correctly with the printer. I will get into that in the next paragraph. You have your printer out, you have removed all the tiedown zipties, tape, and other obstructions that are used to hold the printhead in place during shipping. You plug in your printer using the provided power cable. At this time there should be an indicator light that tells you the machine is up and running properly. Next you will want to locate your filament. Some printers require proprietary spools of filament and some will use any type of filament on a generic spool. Some printers have a dedicated spool holder to place your spool onto, other may have a chamber to put your spool into. Take the end of the filament and run the end into the motor that will draw the filament from the spool and send it into the extruder. Thats it, you have done the physical portion of setting up for your first print. we will now move on to connecting to the print with your computer. Programming Your Printer The next thing to do is to connect your computer to your printer. Your printer will most like ask you to download and install Cura. I have used Cura and it's a simple program to use. When you load up cura for the first time you will be prompted to select your printer from the list. Cura is open source and will most likely have your printer. This printer selection will preload Cura with the necessary setting for your printer. Cura come with a leveling program and can walk you through the bed leveling process or you can do it manually. some print beds do not have a leveling function and rely on a auto level script to tell the printer what is level. This I have found is a very terrible function and should not be used. problems associated with this is potentially running the print head into the bed on one end while being too high on the other. This is a bit exaggerated but I have seen it happen. Unless your printer specifically say YOU NEED TO LEVEL YOUR PRINT BED, your print bed is probably already level and ready to use and DO NOT TRY TO RELEVEL YOUR PRINT BED. I will explain why in the next paragraph. Starting Your First Print You are now ready to start your first print. Typically the instructions will direct you to a 3x3x0.5cm cube. It is a basic print that can test to see if your printer is set up correctly. Cura is a slicing program that takes the .stl file and renders code for the printer to use. cura has alot of settings you can adjust but all you need to pay attention to at the moment is whats on the front page of cura. Select Expert and select Switch to Full Settings. This allows you to make fine adjustments to how your print will be have. youll need to set the temperature of the print head to the recommended temperature for you filament, typically this is 110c. Your bed temp will be about half of the print head temp but milage may vary and you will need to find out what works for you. If you hold your mouse over the settings in Cura it will give you information about what it does and what the recommended settings should be and I would suggest leaving it there until after your first print. Now, select the print button and you will see a window pop up with X and Y axis and some other buttons and a terminal box. You want to select the home button for the X, Y, and Z, axis. The print head should be about the thickness of a piece a paper above the print bed. If it’s not do not worry you can make adjustments later. Click in the terminal box and type our M501. This command will tell you the settings for the printer. You will see at the bottom bed offset. This number you will need to change to get the print head the right distance away from the print bed. Z axis will be set to zero and will most likely be too high. Start by lowering the Z axis by 0.2 mm at a time using the command M212 Z-0.2. If the head is still to high repeat the previous step and type in M212 Z-0.4. The print head will be set 0.4 mm below Z original home of 0.0. To save this setting type in the command M500. you can verify the changes have been save by typing in M501 again to show your printer settings. This will be time consuming if you have to move a large distance. By large i mean up to 3mm. once the cube comes out looking nice you are ready to print your next product. typically this will be a fan shroud. The fan shroud is nice to have because as the printer start to print over the edge of the previous layer. The fan will quickly cool the new layer and reduce the edges from curling up. Congratulations you have finished your first print and are now on a journey to printing awesome things. Improving Your Prints Some products will often having your printing at angles greater than 45 degrees. typically printers can do a little more than 45 but it gets iffy. You can improve prints with overhangs by selecting the scaffolding selection. Scaffolding lets you print in the air. scaffolding is typically offset from the print by less than 1 mm such that its easy to remove when the print is finished. the scaffolding might become attached to the product but using a set of needle nose plyers or your fingers to easily tear it away from the product. If the product is have bad warping you may need to increase the bed temperature. Like wise if you have a printer with an enclosure the print bed will raise the ambient temperature inside the enclosure which will reduce warping as well. Setting the fan speed to max has never cause problems and is always good to have running. Some printers are designed with speed in mind and can travel at about 150mm/s. Running a printer with speed set to high can cause prints to become weak or fail in the process. Moreover, running a print too slow can cause prints to have a lot of skin tags to appear as filament is still being extruded from the print head even if the head is move over open space to print in a different area. I have found my printer prints well at about 50mm/s. because it is not effective to print a solid plastic object, programs will allow you to select the density inside the product. 15% is a good density for most prints. Cura has a visual section that allows you to see how a print will happen layer by layer as well as were the infill material will be lade. I found that if you have a layer that will be printed directly onto the infill material and is not touching the border you will to raise the density to ensure more infill material is touching the new layer. Otherwise you will be printing in mid air with no scaffolding support and this will leave a big hole in your product. If the print is still pealing up after all that I would suggest investing in a product called PEI. Polyetherimide, known as PEI, seems to be the best bed you can buy. Reports of users who use it say that prints are near impossible to remove. This means that you wont have to worry about your print pealing up. The solution to removing prints usually involve sticking the bed and the print into the fridge or freeze and using thermodynamics to cause the print to break free from the bed. If you are using this with a heated bed a thicker piece of PEI will work better. I have heard that PLA will print to pei just fine without heating the bed. ABS requires a heated bed either way. a 12x12x1/4” sheet will cost you about $100. For more information on this product clicker HERE. Completing Your First Print You calibrated your printer, you have printed your first print, and you just completed your first custom product; now what? You can begin tweaking and adjusting the advanced settings to more fine tune your prints for the perfect quality. your can increase in speed, increase the resolution, and improve the quality. There is a bucket load of other settings you can change but I will not go into detail about those as they vary based on the product you are printing. Program to Design Your Own Products You will most likely be printing other peoples 3D models for a while before you come across the idea that you want to make your own 3D model and print it for your needs. There is an abundance of 3D modeling programs. Everything from high end enterprise grade software to freeware offered by some printing companies. I am only going to touch on the products I have used. First up is Sketchup. Sketchup was previously owned by Google and was later bought by another company. It still has a free version and can do most basic modeling. However, sketchup does not work well with 3D printers and often pieces of the model do not get rendered in Cura. this is why Sketchup should not be used. Next is Autocad's 123D Design. It is a basic modeling tool designed for 3D printing. It has very limited functionality but if you can stretch your brain you can create nearly anything. I have used it to make a few things like my headphone holder for my desk. Finally you can use solidworks to create 3D models. solidworks is an enterprise grade software and as such is not free. However, if you really enjoy 3D modeling and are rather good at it, solidworks might be the program for you. Sharing Your Products With Others If you are still curious about where to find 3D models to download there are a few sites on the internet that allow a user to upload and share to 3D models with the community. Thingiverse.com is hosted by makerbot. The library is easy to navigate and they often have some awesome new design picked by a staff member to show off to the community. They also hold competitions for 3D modeling and you get the opportunity to find some swag. Other sites include: pinshape.com, youmagine.com, and myminifactory.com. There are other sites but these are the ones I am a bit more familiar with. Also, there is a thread on LTT for 3D model sharing linked here (insert link). Issues of 3D Printers The biggest issues with 3D printing is that the products printed cannot be made for load bearing regardless of design. The layers do not fuse together and as a result will break in between layers if excessive force is applied. This is why you only see little toys and figures and parts for drones being made. Warping is the next big issue. I have covered ways to reduce warping in the previous sections. I have not solved this myself personally but I have only heard rumors as to what to do to fix it. My findings regarding this are things that i have done myself or have ruled as highly worth trying. Conclusion I am overly fascinated by 3D printers and cant wait for the near future when the function becomes perfected. With there being no standard for 3D printing, it has been left up to the community to drive the in home printer to new heights. If you can any questions or would like to know more information about techniques I am happy to help. Likewise, if you know of any techniques or have any suggestions, feel free to leave a post. If you feel I need to make a correction please PM and Ill make the changes as soon as I can. I dont know everything, only what I have experienced so I may get something wrong. I simply want to help everyone make the best prints.
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