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I am getting the audio technica at 2020 for Christmas. so that is $170 usd down the hole. I would also like a 3D printer. I would need a cheep one bc you know money. What would be a good printer for the most 200-300 usd
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Hello, few days ago i installed windows 10 and today noticed that i cant print anything so i got back to win 7, will microsoft fix it eventualy or it will never happen btw my printer is Canon IP 4300
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Hello, I recently bought a 3D printer and thought there would be a few people here that are into 3D printing so I was looking for a subforum for this. Whats the best subforum to post about 3D printers?
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Hey guys, I´ve got an HP printer `1320`without a network port and i´m not able to get it printing from an other computer. I´ve tried everything windows is offering and I don´t get it working. I can´t even find the printer in the network. Is there a possibility to emulate a printer via a software running on my computer that gives my printer a job which it got from a network PC? All computers are running Win10 and are in the same `Homegroup.` Greetings Helge
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So i grabbed this printer HP Officejet 4500 G510g (non-wifi version) for 25$. It is all-in-one printer with both USB and Ethernet port. I want to connect it with my wireless router TP-Link WR740N (it don't have print server). But i think printer has print-server embedded (lots of search returned the result- "if it have USB, it'll possibly have print server). So i took Ethernet cable and connected my printer with my wireless router and printed a network report from printer which i have attached below. Please look it up and tell me if there is any hope or should i stop googling all-together? Thanks
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I got a used MBA for school and I am wanting to print to my local printer. However, my problem is this printer is usb only, and it is set up to my stationary laptop that is Win 7.The printer works great when hooked to the mac by itself, to the stationary laptop by itself, and shared with other Windows PCs. The print job seems to not send to the win 7 computer, I can see the printer and connect fine, but it won't print, and shows the printer as disconnected when trying to print a test page, document, etc.. If you need any more info, screen shots, etc. let me know. This is not urgent, but I need this done before Spring Semester starts. Merry Christmas to everyone, and thank you in advance.
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Hi! I just found this old printer and I want to use it on Windows 10, but there are only drivers for Windows XP and older. Is there a way I could hack up some sort of driver to work with the printer? (If you are suggesting to buy a new printer, please don't) Best regards, M P.S.: the printer is an HP Laserjet 1005.
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I am a student at a community college and our instructor did not give us the ability to print off study guides for our final exam. I have the practice test that is an exact copy (WE WERE ALOUD TO KEEP IT), and I'd like to scan it and create a clean practice test to work on what I got wrong and to know my weaknesses. What program can I use to scan, clean up my pencil markings, and print off these sheets? I don't want to retype everything, that will defeat the purpose of doing it quickly since I have my final exam this coming week on Tuesday. Help me please. I need an A to get into the Nursing Program. Thank you in advance. Nights are my best study time so I can do everything during the day without taking away from studying. I'll post pictures when I get it accomplished.
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I recently got a new printer (canon pixma mg4250) and so I tried to install it so my would connect to it over my home network. I went through the installation process using the disc that came with the printer only to find that the printer was registered and my computer could tell it was online(see screenshot of Word below), but I was still unable to print anything. I also cannot print files directly through Windows File Explorer and the printer is registered in device manager. So I uninstalled the printer and went through the installation again, this time setting it to work by USB cable and the results were the same. So I then unistalled the drivers again and tried downloading them straight from canon's website (http://www.canon.co.uk/support/consumer_products/products/fax__multifunctionals/inkjet/pixma_mg_series/pixma_mg4250.aspx?type=drivers&language=&os=WINDOWS 10 (64-bit) ) which got me the same results. Also when I did the reinstalls, I notice there was option to view the result of the network set-up which said it failed. My operating system in Windows 10 64 bit. The OS version shouldn't be the issue as I managed to install the drivers and had the printer working with two other pcs in the house that have the same OS. For reference they connected via my home network. The print spooler service and related services are running on my computer so that is not the issue. I also tried an installation where only C drive (as I have multiple drives) was connected and my security software was turned off in case it was interfering with the install (it has caused issues like this in the past). Any ideas on what I can try to resolve this without needing a clean install of windows as I would prefer not having to download and install all programs and steam games again.
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Since the Canon Pixma MP520 is starting to malfuncion I need a new printer. It's for light home use and I rarely print photos. The printer should be realiable and have cheap supplies
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Ok so i have to print about 3500 pages (text only) and I thought i could get away with a printer with a few extra than the cost of printing So any suggestions for a Monochrome laser printer for 100 bucks Please NOTE 1) I Have to print about 3500 pages from it . 2) price point is 100 $ 3) the Refills should be economic ,and preferably I should be Able to Do it Myself . Article for top 3 printers in my country . http://tech.firstpost.com/news-analysis/top-3-laser-printers-under-rs-6000-3856.html/2
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What should I be looking for when I go to buy a printer. My girlfriend needs one for college, and I'd like to get her one that isn't horrendous. I've come across some pretty $#itty ones before and would like to avoid buying one again. It needs to be able to print and scan and of course copy.
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What happens when you use plain paper on Photo paper print settings? Has anyone else tried this? it produces better albeit slower results than telling the printer youre using normal paper on Best setting, however im worried that this would damage the printer overtime and I don't know if it's viable in the long term.
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So I just saw this EEVBlog video. This happens with most color laser printers, where they will put faint dots on them, which carry data with the printer's serial number, time, and date. Every document or photo you print from a color laser printer (with this feature) will have these dots. This is nothing new, it has been going on for a long time. Source: https://www.eff.org/pages/list-printers-which-do-or-do-not-display-tracking-dots EEVBlog video: I did not know about this feature, I think it poses a rather large security risk. I do not like being tracked. What about you? Would you like every document of yours (if printed on a color laser printer) to have the serial number for your printer as well as the exact time printed? Also this is my first post in the news section, so tell me how I did! I typed this on mobile.
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Guys! Top salute. Looking for a AIO printer with ADF. I'm looking for Color printer for max print upto Folio Paper. Print, Copy and Scan. I was looking for Epson L555. Is it any good? No limit on $$. Please suggest me a good Printer.
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Hey guys, So I have an old Lenovo laptop (Win7 32-bit) running 24/7 as a print server and spare computer. Whenever I try to print from my Win8.1 desktop, I get an "Access Denied" error message. This problem occurs on and off. I initially had the same problem when I tried to add the printer. I let it be for a couple of days and then everything started working like it normally would, allowing me to add the printer and print. Strangely enough, I have a Macbook Pro running OS X Yosemite and it prints on the printer flawlessly all the time. The printer is a HP LaserJet 1320 if that matters. All computers are connected over Wifi. I've tried re-installing the printer today and it still gives me the access denied error. I attached the error message I get when I click on the printer in control panel > devices and printers. Any ideas? It's getting very annoying to have to pull out my laptop everytime I need to print something. Thanks in advance.
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3D Printers: An Introduction to Buying and Using 3D Printers Intro This thread is to serve as a central location to information regarding 3D printers and how to use them. The reason is that there is no central, detailed, location that thoroughly explains what a 3D printer is, how to pick one, what too look for when buying, how to operate, and achieve a successful print. I will be going through every facet of 3D printing including what is a 3D printer, to completing your first big print. This page may be routinely update periodically as new information arises. Every bit of information is my own thought from my own personal experience. If I get something wrong just pm and ill make corrections. Let us begin on our journey through the world of 3D printing. What is a 3D Printer? You must be interested in 3D printing if you have made it to this paragraph. Some of you may have heard about it, how it can make tools, or you may have even seen one, but what exactly is 3D printing? 3D Printing is defined as: a process for making physical objects from three-dimensional digital model, typically by laying down many successive layers of a material until the desired model is constructed. 3D printing is revolutionizing the way R&D is done. It took weeks to prototype new products and was often very expensive. Now, companies can produce prototypes in just a few hours. In its basic form, 3D printers are a robotic machine that is comprised of servo motors and an extruder. These two tools used in unison are what product the product. But what is the product made of exactly? What is Filament? 3D printers use a variety of filament. The two primary filaments are made of PLA or ABS. PLA is polylactic acid or polylactide. It is a biodegradable thermoplastic derived from resources such as corn starch, roots, or sugar cane. This is why some people say that during printing, PLA gives off a bit of a sweet aroma. The PLA is extruded into a thin line called filament that is wound on a spool for easy transport and unwinding. The other major filament is made of ABS, acrylonitrile butadiene styrene. It is a thermoplastic polymer that is often used in the production of automotive parts, as well as everyone's favorite, Legos. Other materials include PET, Nylon, and PVA. PLA and ABS are the two primary and often suffice for personal project. The other material is more often used for special products where a desired specific outcome is necessary. What is The Best Printer to Buy? What is the best printer to buy? This is a complicated question that is often asked by people who want to take a dive into 3D printing but have no clue where to start. First off, no 3D printer is the right printer. Every printer has its pros and cons and not a single printer will be able to meet every single one of your unknown needs. I will go into detail a little bit later about the problems associated with 3D printing and how to rectify these problems. There will be overlapping information as pros and cons and problems and solutions also aid in the what makes a good printer and how to improve prints, which will be discussed later on. I will cover fundamental necessary parts that make or break your experience with 3D printing. The first thing to determine when buying a printer is: what is your budget. Budget is the primary factor of choosing a printer. At the time of writing this you can buy a $300 HICTOP Prusa I3 printer, or a MakerBot Replicator for about $3,000. The reason this is the major factor is because the $300 printer does not come with all the bells and whilst that a $3000 printer does. It is the equivalent to buying a 4-wheeler vs range rover. Both will get you up the mountain but the journey is what makes the difference. The second thing to determine is print area size. It typically cost the same weather you have 100x100x100mm print area or a 1000x1000x1000mm print area. However, larger print areas require more fine tuning to ensure level print surface. The choice really comes down to how much space do you have. The third factor is the XYZ axis movements. While this does not seem like a major factor, it very much is. The best printer's print bed either move in the Z axis or do not move at all. You maybe asking why is this. If the print bed moved in the X or Y axis, you risk your print breaking off of falling over due to the sudden and quick movements of the print bed. This can be best illustrated with a skateboard. A skateboard does not have a motor or brakes. The wheels move frictionlessly over the ground. Now say you are standing on a motionless skateboard and someone comes along and pushes the board with their foot. simple physics says that you head is going to stay in the same spot while the board pulls your feet out from under your body. The motion will be transferred upward toward your head until the forces equalize. Unfortunately your feet aren't attached and your head hits the ground with a thud. The same thing happens when the print bed moves in the X and Y axis. This is generally not an issue if you are printing slow or the product is not very tall with a lot of little details. The fourth factor is a heated bed. The heated bed is a near essential piece. First, I am going to cover the results of printing without a heated bed. When you print without a heated bed you need to use some sort of material in between the raw print bed and the product. Most people have found the blue painters tape works best as the filament will stick decent to the tape and the tape can be pulled up without leaving sticky residue behind. Plus painters tape can be reused a few times before needed to be replaced. When buying painters tape, the wider the tape, the better the results. Because the filament is a thermoplastic it means that it is heated up to a melted state and quickly cooled which causes it to harden in place. but because the outside of the new layer cools quicker on the outside than the inside touching the previous layer you develop some warping. The force of the warping increases with each layer and can force the first layer to either detach from the tape or peal the the tape up. both with will result in a print breaking off or failing entirely. This is where the heated bed come in. You do not need to use tape as the heated bed is an ideal surface for prints plus it keeps the first few layer warm enough to avoid this warping and allows the first layer to maintain a sticky state to ensure that it does not peel up. The fifth factor is the machine itself. There are minimalistic printers that only consist of the axis and the motherboard to run the machine. There are some that are an enclosure that also acts as the support for the axis. The best is one with an enclosure. The downside to an enclosure is that you cannot fix a print that is about to fail. The advantages of the enclosure is that prints have better results. results improve because the enclosure created a warm or hot environment which keeps the entire print warm and sticky which means less warping or a great chance of success. By now you must be asking me, “Which printer has these features as is affordable?” Well, the Printer market has been receiving new printers every year and each one is a little different in how things operate. What I have just covered are some of the most important feature in a printer. The rest I would classify as cosmetic matters such as nozzle size, lcd with buttons, or remote connections like using an sd card. If you want a good 3D printer that will make perfect prints I would suggest going for a more high end that includes all the major factors I have listed. You Just Bought Your First Printer so you have just bought your first printer; now what. First find a good location for your printer. because printers have fast moving parts you’ll want a desk that is solid. Then crack open the instructions that came with your printer on how to set it up. If the instructions are anything like the one that came with mine it will be less intuitive than peeling an orange. Therefore, I will cover some basic information about setting up for your first print. Setting Up Your Printer Setting up for your first print can seem a little daunting. You are thrown a wealthy of knowledge that for the most part, you probably will never need. Most printers come pre assembled and ready to print out of the box. Something may shift during shipping as its likely you may need to calibrate your computer to work correctly with the printer. I will get into that in the next paragraph. You have your printer out, you have removed all the tiedown zipties, tape, and other obstructions that are used to hold the printhead in place during shipping. You plug in your printer using the provided power cable. At this time there should be an indicator light that tells you the machine is up and running properly. Next you will want to locate your filament. Some printers require proprietary spools of filament and some will use any type of filament on a generic spool. Some printers have a dedicated spool holder to place your spool onto, other may have a chamber to put your spool into. Take the end of the filament and run the end into the motor that will draw the filament from the spool and send it into the extruder. Thats it, you have done the physical portion of setting up for your first print. we will now move on to connecting to the print with your computer. Programming Your Printer The next thing to do is to connect your computer to your printer. Your printer will most like ask you to download and install Cura. I have used Cura and it's a simple program to use. When you load up cura for the first time you will be prompted to select your printer from the list. Cura is open source and will most likely have your printer. This printer selection will preload Cura with the necessary setting for your printer. Cura come with a leveling program and can walk you through the bed leveling process or you can do it manually. some print beds do not have a leveling function and rely on a auto level script to tell the printer what is level. This I have found is a very terrible function and should not be used. problems associated with this is potentially running the print head into the bed on one end while being too high on the other. This is a bit exaggerated but I have seen it happen. Unless your printer specifically say YOU NEED TO LEVEL YOUR PRINT BED, your print bed is probably already level and ready to use and DO NOT TRY TO RELEVEL YOUR PRINT BED. I will explain why in the next paragraph. Starting Your First Print You are now ready to start your first print. Typically the instructions will direct you to a 3x3x0.5cm cube. It is a basic print that can test to see if your printer is set up correctly. Cura is a slicing program that takes the .stl file and renders code for the printer to use. cura has alot of settings you can adjust but all you need to pay attention to at the moment is whats on the front page of cura. Select Expert and select Switch to Full Settings. This allows you to make fine adjustments to how your print will be have. youll need to set the temperature of the print head to the recommended temperature for you filament, typically this is 110c. Your bed temp will be about half of the print head temp but milage may vary and you will need to find out what works for you. If you hold your mouse over the settings in Cura it will give you information about what it does and what the recommended settings should be and I would suggest leaving it there until after your first print. Now, select the print button and you will see a window pop up with X and Y axis and some other buttons and a terminal box. You want to select the home button for the X, Y, and Z, axis. The print head should be about the thickness of a piece a paper above the print bed. If it’s not do not worry you can make adjustments later. Click in the terminal box and type our M501. This command will tell you the settings for the printer. You will see at the bottom bed offset. This number you will need to change to get the print head the right distance away from the print bed. Z axis will be set to zero and will most likely be too high. Start by lowering the Z axis by 0.2 mm at a time using the command M212 Z-0.2. If the head is still to high repeat the previous step and type in M212 Z-0.4. The print head will be set 0.4 mm below Z original home of 0.0. To save this setting type in the command M500. you can verify the changes have been save by typing in M501 again to show your printer settings. This will be time consuming if you have to move a large distance. By large i mean up to 3mm. once the cube comes out looking nice you are ready to print your next product. typically this will be a fan shroud. The fan shroud is nice to have because as the printer start to print over the edge of the previous layer. The fan will quickly cool the new layer and reduce the edges from curling up. Congratulations you have finished your first print and are now on a journey to printing awesome things. Improving Your Prints Some products will often having your printing at angles greater than 45 degrees. typically printers can do a little more than 45 but it gets iffy. You can improve prints with overhangs by selecting the scaffolding selection. Scaffolding lets you print in the air. scaffolding is typically offset from the print by less than 1 mm such that its easy to remove when the print is finished. the scaffolding might become attached to the product but using a set of needle nose plyers or your fingers to easily tear it away from the product. If the product is have bad warping you may need to increase the bed temperature. Like wise if you have a printer with an enclosure the print bed will raise the ambient temperature inside the enclosure which will reduce warping as well. Setting the fan speed to max has never cause problems and is always good to have running. Some printers are designed with speed in mind and can travel at about 150mm/s. Running a printer with speed set to high can cause prints to become weak or fail in the process. Moreover, running a print too slow can cause prints to have a lot of skin tags to appear as filament is still being extruded from the print head even if the head is move over open space to print in a different area. I have found my printer prints well at about 50mm/s. because it is not effective to print a solid plastic object, programs will allow you to select the density inside the product. 15% is a good density for most prints. Cura has a visual section that allows you to see how a print will happen layer by layer as well as were the infill material will be lade. I found that if you have a layer that will be printed directly onto the infill material and is not touching the border you will to raise the density to ensure more infill material is touching the new layer. Otherwise you will be printing in mid air with no scaffolding support and this will leave a big hole in your product. If the print is still pealing up after all that I would suggest investing in a product called PEI. Polyetherimide, known as PEI, seems to be the best bed you can buy. Reports of users who use it say that prints are near impossible to remove. This means that you wont have to worry about your print pealing up. The solution to removing prints usually involve sticking the bed and the print into the fridge or freeze and using thermodynamics to cause the print to break free from the bed. If you are using this with a heated bed a thicker piece of PEI will work better. I have heard that PLA will print to pei just fine without heating the bed. ABS requires a heated bed either way. a 12x12x1/4” sheet will cost you about $100. For more information on this product clicker HERE. Completing Your First Print You calibrated your printer, you have printed your first print, and you just completed your first custom product; now what? You can begin tweaking and adjusting the advanced settings to more fine tune your prints for the perfect quality. your can increase in speed, increase the resolution, and improve the quality. There is a bucket load of other settings you can change but I will not go into detail about those as they vary based on the product you are printing. Program to Design Your Own Products You will most likely be printing other peoples 3D models for a while before you come across the idea that you want to make your own 3D model and print it for your needs. There is an abundance of 3D modeling programs. Everything from high end enterprise grade software to freeware offered by some printing companies. I am only going to touch on the products I have used. First up is Sketchup. Sketchup was previously owned by Google and was later bought by another company. It still has a free version and can do most basic modeling. However, sketchup does not work well with 3D printers and often pieces of the model do not get rendered in Cura. this is why Sketchup should not be used. Next is Autocad's 123D Design. It is a basic modeling tool designed for 3D printing. It has very limited functionality but if you can stretch your brain you can create nearly anything. I have used it to make a few things like my headphone holder for my desk. Finally you can use solidworks to create 3D models. solidworks is an enterprise grade software and as such is not free. However, if you really enjoy 3D modeling and are rather good at it, solidworks might be the program for you. Sharing Your Products With Others If you are still curious about where to find 3D models to download there are a few sites on the internet that allow a user to upload and share to 3D models with the community. Thingiverse.com is hosted by makerbot. The library is easy to navigate and they often have some awesome new design picked by a staff member to show off to the community. They also hold competitions for 3D modeling and you get the opportunity to find some swag. Other sites include: pinshape.com, youmagine.com, and myminifactory.com. There are other sites but these are the ones I am a bit more familiar with. Also, there is a thread on LTT for 3D model sharing linked here (insert link). Issues of 3D Printers The biggest issues with 3D printing is that the products printed cannot be made for load bearing regardless of design. The layers do not fuse together and as a result will break in between layers if excessive force is applied. This is why you only see little toys and figures and parts for drones being made. Warping is the next big issue. I have covered ways to reduce warping in the previous sections. I have not solved this myself personally but I have only heard rumors as to what to do to fix it. My findings regarding this are things that i have done myself or have ruled as highly worth trying. Conclusion I am overly fascinated by 3D printers and cant wait for the near future when the function becomes perfected. With there being no standard for 3D printing, it has been left up to the community to drive the in home printer to new heights. If you can any questions or would like to know more information about techniques I am happy to help. Likewise, if you know of any techniques or have any suggestions, feel free to leave a post. If you feel I need to make a correction please PM and Ill make the changes as soon as I can. I dont know everything, only what I have experienced so I may get something wrong. I simply want to help everyone make the best prints.
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SO, I found out today that the college that I'm going to has a print limit of 50 pages per student, then 25 cents per page after. I like to print out everything, so i need a printer. It needs to have a scanner, and also needs to be wireless. Large ink cartage's are nice. I have no clue where to start, so say some examples you've had good luck with.
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does anyone know how to get the ricoh mp c2003 ps to print something for a imac which run os x 10.7
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Hey guys so I just finished setting up my USB only printer to run through my linksys 1900ac router using their usb control software. (After 15 mins of troubleshooting #protip use eSATA port instead of USB 3.0 port for printers and such devices.) My question is do i have to Use their control app every time I want to print something? Or is there anther way of manually adding the printer via ip or something directly to windows? Because the app kinda sucks and i like to minimize useless programs. Thanks in Advanced
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Hello friends, Curious to know if any of you have recommendations for printers which are easy for older people who are not tech savvy to use. There are a few main things I'm looking for in this, and I'm not sure where to start. - Easy to use menu interface: They primarily use it for word documents, both printing and scanning. Color is not necessary - Toner is preferable: I am called to replace their ink, despite showing them how to every time, so since toner will last longer that is preferable - Wireless: I'm going to be setting their machine up, so wireless will make it easier for them to be able to print from wherever they have their laptop, rather than being mad they can't print because they forgot to plug in a cable or something. Thanks for your suggestions!
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Hi guys so i just recently bought a new printer and its hooked up to my desktop. and i want to print using my mac book without physically connecting the printer itself to the computer. anyone knows how to do it? cause i've tried every video on youtube and so far nothing has worked out for me. thanks in advance!
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Hi, I'm looking to buy a 3D printer for personal use. I have some experience in using one, but zero experience in buying one. I'm currently looking at an Asterid 2000 from Plastic Scribbler for $500. It uses 1.75mm non-proprietary PLA filaments and has a build volume of 8x8x9.5 inch. Can anyone suggest a better 3D printer for a similar price? I would like to keep within this price range but would not mind a more expensive printer if additional features justify the cost. some criteria on the printer: must use non-proprietry filament preferably uses standard 1.75mm filaments preferably able to use more than one kind of filament decent build volume also please list any necessary additional software (besides a CAD program) with your printer recommendation. Thank you!!
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Hello, My Canon MP - MX870 series scanning is not working. I recently got a new PC and and its not working, on my old PC it was fine. Whenever i scan using the printer i choose my option, which is auto scan, and click "OK" to start the process. It says "Processing, please wait" for about 5-10 seconds and goes back to the screen right before you press "OK". I tried on the computer and i go to the Canon MP Navigator EX - MX870 series and i click "Auto Scan" , then it says "Scan by automatically selecting the settings and file format associated with the document type. See the instruction manual for how to set documents" i press "okay" and it says "Scanner is warming up... do not open the document cover" It takes a long time, 20-30 seconds, the brings a pop-up box named "ScanGear" and says "Internal occurred. Scanner driver will be closed Code:5,202,52" I put my papers i want to scan into the top part of the printer where it SHOULD scan. Please Help! i can supply more info if needed!
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Original Source: https://www.reddit.com/r/technology/comments/32y4as/makerbot_employees_laid_off/ Since it is Reddit, someone on Reddit linked a news post to back up the story. News Article: http://motherboard.vice.com/read/makerbot-just-laid-off-20-percent-of-its-staff Engadget Article: http://www.engadget.com/2015/04/17/makerbot-lays-off-20-percent-of-its-employees/ The title says it all unfortunately. Makerbot, one of the major supporters behind consumer 3D printing when the trend started to take off, and creator of one of the most successful 3D printers has just laid off 20% off its staff. This came from an annoymous person to the company on Reddit. It is reported that the staffing size was around 500 people, so that means a potential loss of 100 members of staff or more if the company decides. The staff were escorted off premises by hired external security. The reason for the layoffs? Makerbot is hoping to streamline it's merger with it's parent company Stratasys. An employee was quoted as saying My thoughts? It is sad when ever jobs are cut, especially if its a merger, as you would have thought the jobs would still be needed in the new formed company. It sucks for the around 100 people who will face redundancy due to this. Your thoughts, please leave them down below. Edit: Changed the title from "Makerbot just pulled a Microsoft and laid off 20% of it's staff." to something a bit more serious. Edit #2: Added some missing tags. Edit #3: Added another source.