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Hello there ! it's my first post here on this forum ! ?? I have this mobo : ASUS PRIME H310M-K; I want to add one more fan to my chassis; I already have one in the back (exhaute) and that's all ; To add an other fan, i'am using a fan spliter, so i will be able to plug 2xFans in one Fan Header; The problem the total aperage of the 2 fans is : 0.24A+ 0.16A = 0.4A and in the manual i found this (Image below) : It is said that the CPU_FAN connector can't go beyond 0.5A ! So correct me if i'am wrong, pluging a Fan Spliter with 2 Fans and total of 0.4AP will be all good ? Or i have to change something concidering that 0.4A is very very close to the limits (0.5A) Ps : i don't think i can plug this one additional fan to the PSU because i don't find the Molex Adapter for it,so i guess this means that the PSU is probably using 100% of her capacity ASUS PRIME H310M-K.pdf

PC was running without problems last night and I put it to sleep mode as usual, but now the PC will not power on, whether by a keyboard press or the front panel power button on the case. I checked inside the PC and the motherboard itself, and there are no unplugged cables, nothing obviously burnt out, etc. In the bottom corner of the motherboard, near the front panel header and SATA connectors, there is an LED marked "SB_PWR", and it is lit a solid, non-blinking orange whenever the PSU is plugged in to the mains. The PC will not turn on at all, whether I use the front panel power button, shorting the power switch pins on the system panel header, or presing the internal power button on the bottom edge of the motherboard near the Q-Code display. None of the 4 POST state LEDs in the top corner of the motherboard light up, and there is nothing on the Q-Code display. What is my next step; is there a way to bring this thing back to life?

Hi! Does anyone know what this header is wired to on the Asus X370 Prime Pro? It is misteriously close to the bios chip. I can not find any documentation of it in the manuals. My buddy bricked the mobo during bios flashing and it does not post any more.I tried the cmos clear and all other options. I found a way to flash the bios with my raspberry pi 2 via the SPI interface, but i do not want to solder the chip. If that header is wired to it than i could use it to update the bios image. I already ordered an IC clamp for the chip, but it takes 3 weeks for it to arrive from china Thanks for your time!

Had a virus so I wiped the system. Reinstalled everything it works well but I get random Bsods and can not figure it out or how to understand DMP files. Here is the out put I have but also will attach DMP file if anyone can read it and tell me whats up. I have about 10 Bsods in the last 4 days. Usually all different. Please also include the following information: OS - Windows 8.1, 8, 7, Vista ? WIN10Home x86 (32-bit) or x64 ? X64 What OS was originaly installed on the system? New build Is the OS an OEM version (came pre-installed on system) or full retail version (YOU purchased it from a retailer)? Full Retail Version Age of system (hardware) less then 1 week Age of OS installation - have you re-installed the OS? less then 24 hours CPU model: Ryzen 7 2700 Video Card model: MSI RX 580 8 GB Armor MotherBoard - (if NOT a laptop) Asus Prime X370-Pro Power Supply - brand & wattage (if laptop, skip this) Corsair RM750x System Manufacturer ME Exact model number (if OEM or laptop) Laptop or Desktop? Desktop 112519-8171-01.dmp

I am writing a program in C that checks for prime numbers within a range of numbers. The program seems to be working fine, but there are a couple problems that I haven't been able to figure out. Here is the code: #include<stdio.h> main() { int counter = 0; int lower_bound, upper_bound, num_counter, i; printf("Lower bound?\n"); scanf("%d", &lower_bound); printf("Upper bound?\n"); scanf("%d", &upper_bound); num_counter = lower_bound; while (num_counter <= upper_bound) { if (num_counter <= 1) { printf("%d", num_counter); printf(" is not prime\n"); break; } else if (num_counter > 1) { for (i = 2; i <= num_counter / 2; i++) { if ((num_counter % i) == 0) { printf("%d", num_counter); printf(" is not prime\n"); break; } if ((num_counter % i) != 0) { counter = counter + 1; printf("%d", num_counter); printf(" is prime\n"); break; } } } num_counter = num_counter + 1; } printf("%d\n", counter); int num_range = upper_bound - lower_bound + 1; printf("%d\n", num_range); float prime_density = counter / num_range; printf("%f\n", prime_density); /*printf("Over the interval from "); printf("%d", lower_bound); printf(" to "); printf("%d", upper_bound); printf(" inclusive, the prime density was "); printf("%f", prime_density);*/ } The first problem I have is that the program does not like the number 3 as a lower_bound value, here is the output when I try a range from 3 to 6: Lower bound? 3 Upper bound? 6 4 is not prime 5 is prime 6 is not prime 1 4 0.000000 It will function almost perfectly but will not print out anything for 3 or add one to the counter. The next problem I have is with a float called prime_density. I have the string stuff commented out so I could try and figure out why it kept printing out 0.000000. As you can see above, the result for prime_density should be 0.25 if the counter is at 1 and the num_range is at 4, but it just prints 0.000000 every time, even with number ranges that don't include 3: Lower bound? 7 Upper bound? 10 7 is prime 8 is not prime 9 is prime 10 is not prime 2 4 0.000000 Any help or advice to fix this would be greatly appreciated!

Hello everyone, I have ordered a Seasonic 850W Prime Titanium for my new pc, and I was wondering about its hybrid mode that keeps the fan stopped and only starts spinning at 40% load. I have had very good experiences with Seasonics, my S12 430 and S12 520 are still running smoothly and quietly after 10 years. I don't know if the fanless hybrid operation would benefit the health of the PSU and its fan in the long run, because for me the longevity is more important than being dead silent. So my question is: would the fan be more probable to last longer if it is on continuous spinning (most likely always very low rpm given the 850w power, the system will probably draw 350-400 at highest) or the hybrid mode (not spinning at all for most of the time)? I know the hybrid technology is there for a reason, to use it, but being my first fanless psu, I have concerns that when gaming, the psu could be often near the 40% threshold and keep ramping up and stopping the fan which in the long run would depreciate the fan faster than continuous operation? Thank you!

hey guys, i have a question, which PSU have the best performance? 1.seasonic prime 650w Gold 2.corsair RM650x Gold both price are simillar thankyou in advance

Hi, i need advice deciding between thesee 2 psu. My antec neo eco died, and i thought it was a good power supply, but i just came to meet the psu tier lists and its below medium quality. Since im in a new rig, i wanna invest in a good psu for peace of mind. What i know is that seasonic make their psu, and the corsair one, that particular model is made by CWT. In terms of appeal, im inclined towards the corsair one, and it offer some software that seems useful (altough maybe the info that it gives is the same as hwinfo). I have read a bunch of posts and people Always recommend seasonic, but watching some unboxings i dont know... I know its superficial bus corsair seems better product.

So I have decided to build a pc and have got all the components figured out except for the motherboard for which I have 2 choices: 1) ASUS Prime H310M-K R2.0 2) MSI H310M PRO-VDH PLUS I am gonna use i5 9400F with 16GB (2x8GB) G SKILL Aegis. Please help me which of the two motherboards should I get. TIA.

If you can get on Amazon today, there are some good deals to be had. Buy Nintendo Switch On Amazon: http://geni.us/Pm00ciO Buy GTX 1080 On Amazon: http://geni.us/WR4PK Buy GTX 1060 On Amazon: http://geni.us/9HBTv Buy i7-8700K + Prime Z370 On Newegg: http://geni.us/nXEwIqS Buy Elgato Stream Deck On Amazon: http://geni.us/NPRT Buy Kingston M.2 SSD On Amazon: http://geni.us/bAmf Buy SanDisk 480GB SSD On Amazon: http://geni.us/WZ4Lb Buy EVGA DG-73 On Amazon: http://geni.us/foSuRG Buy Sennheiser HD 4.50 On Amazon: http://geni.us/hajcqab Buy ViewSonic XG2402 On Amazon: http://geni.us/6Vqbq Buy Toshiba 50in 4K On Amazon: http://geni.us/BTA0GG Buy Acer Helios 300 On Amazon: http://geni.us/BZVQt Buy Essential Phone On Amazon: http://geni.us/87U0hMG Buy Fire 7 Tablet On Amazon: http://geni.us/vrp4f7

Useage - University University usage - Tbt no clue, all I know I can get by with any laptop, just need a good battery life Amount of gaming - Casual gamer Photoshop - I do use it Premier - From time to time After effects - rarely Contender 1 (Need 8Gb ram upgrade, upgrade cost within budget) Contender 2 (It's just perfect hardware wise, I just don't like the aesthetics) Contender 3 (Need ram upgrade as well but doing so blows my budget) I made a comment on all of them on this excel sheet, I would love to hear from you guys Personally I am leaning toward the ASUS one but I know the CPU on the MSI blows both of them out of the water but I dig the less gamer aesthetic on the ASUS one I am open to alternatives I concluded with the Y520 and a huge thanks to @ZM Fong for helping me decide. Didn't want to end up with a buyers remorse, so I spend a good while thinking this through. Edit 2 I got the ASUS one actually

Hi there, I'm Seoz, and I don't recommend the Asus Prime Z370-P. After countless times where I've witnessed users on LTT ask for advice on builds, only to find that their chosen motherboard is the Asus Prime Z370-P, it's time I made a full-blown discussion. What we have in terms of motherboard features: • Two, count 'em, two, chassis fan headers • Two M.2 slots • Four SATA 6G ports • Z370 chipset Labelled below are all the flaws of the motherboard that I have experienced firsthand minus the M.2 shields because I don't use an M.2/NVMe. Having two chassis fans is a struggle when you need to fit four fans into your system, especially when one of those two chassis fan headers is slap-bang in the middle of the motherboard, come on... Secondly, the lack of VRM heatsinks is a punch in the gut. If a company like Asus is going to make a motherboard for the Z370 chipset and not include VRM heatsinks, that's when eyebrows get raised. I'll go more into this later. Lastly, there are only four SATA ports. I must clarify that this doesn't affect me in any way since I am only using a single SSD in my system, so really this point may not apply to many, and the typical user I've seen will only ever need two or three SATA slots and possibly an M.2 anyway. But for those looking for storage expandibility, you're kind of short here in the Z370-P. Onto my personal usage with this motherboard, and to be brutally honest, despite my views on it, it's been okay. I'm not a heavy overclocker and so I've only ever gone as far as 4.6GHz 1.2V before. ... But that was before my motherboard started misbehaving. I remember back when I was new to the overclock scene and had my 8600K set to 4.7GHz on a 1.25V core voltage, it felt nice. I had it running just under a week until my PC had random shutdowns and mishaps in normal usage where my PC would cut out signal, crash, blue-screen, you name it, and it was all resolved when I rolled back to 4.4GHz on 1.2V. My second experience was when I was installing my brand new Arctic Freezer 33 eSports One into my case, and I had no choice but to remove the entire motherboard out of the case for me to be able to install it. So, standard procedure, undo standoff screws, unplug cables, and grab by the edges. It was agony to take it out, I could hear it bending about and cracking. When it came to installing my new cooler, I found out that the bracket that the 33 eSports uses actually clashes with the backplate on the Z370-P, and so I had to use a lot of force to get it actually on, needless to say, it did flex a lot and audible creeks galore. I did get the cooler on eventually after the backplate mishap, and also managed to fit my motherboard back into my case. Next, I want to talk about the lights, or lack thereof. This is one of the only Asus boards to not support Asus Aura Sync lighting. it only features brutally cheap-looking orange lighting by the audio side and inside the PCIe bracket clips, it's kind of disgusting to have it on, especially when the only options are either static, breathing, or off. Needless to say, I chose the last option. The motherboard shows its value by not having the addition of Asus Aura Sync lighting and instead opting for orange LEDs... Good if you're going for an orange build I guess, but the other factors outweigh this pro anyway. I understand my views and opinions on the board may have been controversial to some degree and I may even be under fire for what I have said, but it's my motherboard, and it's my experiences. Not everything is bad about the motherboard despite what I have said about it. It's cheap (interpret that how you will) so it may make a good budget option in the right configuration, and it's also a fairly nice entry-level motherboard. I feel as if this motherboard was made for the people whom are just getting into PC building and are looking to enter the Coffee Lake chipset on a tight as budget as possible, and this is where the Z370-P comes in. In the big picture, it really isn't a bad motherboard, you get what you pay for. This motherboard was made for those whom are: a) not looking to overclock heavily - think 8350K & 8600K lightly overclocked, 8700K don't bother b) thinking of small budgets c) want a foundation to 8th-generation Intel CPUs d) don't need that much storage expansion To finish off, the Asus Prime Z370-P is a good board for those whom aren't major enthusiasts, but just want to test the waters on light overclocks and get into PC building.

I've been digging through the bios for the option to disable mce and couldn't find it. I am a total noob with overclocking. I need someone to tell me where the option to disable it is

How good is the Seasonic Prime Ultra 650W 80+ gold certified? Also, is the prime ultra series newer than the focus+ series?

Hello, So I recently decided to get another m.2 SSD for myself and I am having some trouble getting it to show up in file explorer. Motherboard: ASUS Prime Z370-A SSDs: Samsung 960 EVO 500GB x2 I have my first m.2 drive installed in the first slot as the windows boot drive (underneath the heatsink/plastic piece) and the second one installed below the CPU area. I already enabled my motherboard to detect more than one SSD, and it is able to boot from the first one, however I am unable to get it showing in File Explorer. Disk 1 is the SSD that is giving me some trouble. Can someone help me out please? Thank you very much

Hi everyone, I've just joined the forums and figured I'd ask and see if anyone could help me understand something weird related to Amazon / Twitch Prime. When I tried to activate my Free Twitch Prime trial it wouldn't work for some reason, so I decided to chat with Amazon support. The 1st guy I talked to managed to get my Twitch Prime working, after charging my card 1$ (which he said would be refunded to me, I guess it was just for verification purposes). After leaving that chat, I realized that my Amazon Prime Free trial (which I still had around 20 days left of) had magically disappeared. The second or third guy I talked to (there indeed were a few of them, so I can't exactly remember) has told me that my 'US Amazon Prime Trial' has been cancelled in order for my Twitch Prime Trial to be started, since I live outside of the US. When I asked him if my activation of Twitch Prime had cancelled my Amazon Prime subscription, he replied affirmatively. This just confused me a lot, I don't understand how 1 subscription (which by the way actually depends on the other subscription) can cancel that other subscription. Also, I wonder what would have happened if I had actually paid for my Amazon Prime, since I would have effectively been robbed of my purchased digital goods.

Hi there! I just got my new rig, a Trheadripper 1950x Asus Prime X399 Ad error won't post with 64 gigs of memory. I put it together, but the motherboard stuck with Ad error code. Won't show anything on screen. I tried 3 different BIOS. But nothing. The Cpu fan spin up a bit then then stop. Dead mother board?

Hey guys, I am pretty screwed, I went home last evening, filled with joy and a Dark Rock Pro 3 in my hands, ready to be installed through the night so I could play some games again. I started unplugging my cables, lifting my PC to the desk, and opened it up. I wanted to install the CPU cooler, close it again and have a nice remaining night. But what I got is sadness and depression, as my PC just won't boot, whatever I tried. Here some information: Mainboard: Asus Prime B350-Plus GPU: GTX 1060 MSI, GTX 1060 Gainwand (tried both) RAM: Corsair Vengeance DDR4 3200MHz 16GB Cooler: Dark Rock Pro 3 PSU: Corsair CS650M I had to use a screwdriver and carefully lift up the backplate of the motherboard, as it was glued on it, which actually surprised me. It is possible, that I damaged something during the process, but I actually don't think so, as I was very careful. I press the Startbutton, and the following things happen: My LED Strip, Fan Coolers and CPU Cooler start to spin, but my graphics cards stay still. From there on I get no signal or anything else. It just stays that way. Using my HDD Led at the Speaker Pins won't do anything and I do not own a small speaker for those purposes. I can buy one though! What should I do next? I was about to try the "Zeromethod" (Don't know if it is called that in English. I am refering to "Nullmethode") Do you guys have any other ideas? Thanks. #Excuse my grammer, I only have 4% left on my phone for the next day and wanted to be quick

Any Asus Prime b250m-k user here ? Does your motherboard lights up your peripherals and also does your ethernet port blinks after PC shutdown ?

I am new to overclocking and just finished my 1sy ever PC build. I have just started overclocking my cpu and am using Ryzen Master to find my cpu limit then will lock them down in BIOS. I went straight to 3.7ghz at stock voltage. Idle temps are 22 degrees and under load after 15 minutes of Prime95 is 41 degrees. Is this normal? Ambient temps are 12 degrees. Ryzen 7 1700 Noctua NH-D15 MSI x370 power gaming titanium 16GB G Skill Flare X running at 3200ghz set easily by selecting profile 2 in Bios. Asus ROG Strix 1070 Samsung 960 evo 500GB Crucial MX500 500GB Sandisk Plus 240GB WD Blue 7200rpm 1TB EVGA 650w Gold Fractal design R5 with 3 case fans I'm thinking I should be able to hit 4Ghz with the above initial results? Also is Ryzen Master accurate at reporting temps? What else could I use to report temps?

Hello everyone , upgrading my pc from an old phenom x6 1100T to the i7 8700k with an asus prime z370-a mobo and asus strix oc TI 11gb . Which 16 RAM kit will perform best for this wombo combo ?? Dual channel preferred. If there is another ram which will work better than this one please do tell , i don't wanna buy 250+ euro ram and end up with my pc not posting. i was thinking for this one >> G.Skill TridentZ RGB 16GB DDR4-3000MHz (F4-3000C16D-16GTZR) Thanks in advance !

So I've just plugged in an Intel p600 512 pcie m.2 ssd into the slot in my Asus prime z370a motherboard And I have no idea what I'm doing, or how to get it to work I want to load windows onto it but it's not showing up anywhere and I'm lost in the bios. I think I might try update the bios first. Can someone help walk me through this?

Today is Amazon's Prime Day go check it out!! There are some good tech deals, may not be the best but there are a lot of other non tech deals.

This is the official thread on the LTT forum to post, and find, the best Amazon deals during Prime Day 2016! To keep some sense of order in the thread, we would very much appreciate you following this format when posting a deal: Product Name Discounted Price (with currency) Regular Retail Price (with currency) Link For example: Product Name: Jaybird X2 Sport Wireless Bluetooth Headphones Discounted Price: $79.99 (USD) Regular Retail Price: $149.99 (USD) Link: https://www.amazon.com/Jaybird-Sport-Wireless-Bluetooth-Headphones/dp/B013HSW4OG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468283690&sr=8-2&keywords=Jaybird+X2+Sport Please use Amazon.com links And, of course, read the thread before posting and try to avoid double-posting deals. The 10 best deals posted in this thread will be featured in a video on LTT tomorrow, and the contributing members will be credited in said video (if more than one user posts the same deal, the first user to post said deal will be credited) Happy deal hunting!

Specs: i5 4690k devils canyon Noctua NH-L9i ASRock M8 case Normally, I have my 4690k clocked to 4.0 GHz and never see temps over 75. But when I run Prime95 my temps shoot straight to 100 and the CPU starts throttling. Is there any way of restricting Prime95 to never use more than, say, a quarter of my CPUs power? Also, I upgraded my laptop to Windows 10 and have become extremely frustrated with the "Mac style" reverse scrolling that windows has adopted for whatever retarded reason. I have tried reversing it to the correct scroll direction within the settings but returns to the default whenever the laptop is put to sleep or shut down. I was wondering if there is anyway of reversing the scroll direction permanently so I don't have to stoop down to the level of mac users.