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Hey, i’m getting a new computer cheap from a friend but the power cord is missing. It is a Lenovo T5 Ryzen 7, 3070 prebuilt (the RGB version). I currently have the Lenovo T5i with intel i5 and 3060. Both These computers use a 650 watt psu and i suppose both are lenovos own product but im not sure if they are the same. Is it safe to use my power cord for the New computer or Will it screw up? also, does anyone have experience with ordering spare parts from Lenovo? Or can I just order any power cord? Thanks

Hello, so I recently just built a friends computer for him and I noticed that his 3080 had three 8 pin slots, since we only had 2 gpu power cables we ran both power cables to the gpu and then daisychained one of the two power cables into the third slot on the gpu, is this acceptable?

Overall rating for this dock: 3/5 I bought this Dock for my 2019 16" MacBook Pro. The main concern I had going is was knowing if this dock was capable of running 2 external displays and charging my laptop that came with a 96W charger at only 65W. The answer is yes. But be warned, a few things I did not expect is that this dock is very loud and a 16" MacBook Pro can consume a lot of power under load. Let's discuss. To get 2 displays off this dock all your displays must be DisplayPort. I connected my main display over native DisplayPort and my other display off a Type C to DisplayPort cable. This setup works and I can set both displays to their native 1440p resolution and144Hz refresh rate. I tried to use a Type C to HDMI cable and that did not work, the Thunderbolt spec will only do DisplayPort natively, so you must use a Type C to DisplayPort Cable. Don't try to use any Type C to HDMI/USB hubs or DP to HDMI/C to HDMI cables off the rear thunderbolt port, they won't work. Also note, a 20Gbps Thunderbolt 3 cable, often found in 1m cable sizes, cannot drive 2 displays, you must use a 40Gbps cable and the included one is only 0.5m. As for charging, this dock will charge my 2019 16" MacBook Pro, but it does so only at 65W which is slow and is 31W less than my MacBook Pro wants to charge with. The important thing is that the MacBook is not having to use battery power to supplement insufficient wall power, granted this may occur if you're using the CPU and GPU together in a demanding workload, but I don't think the concern is very high. As long as you power your other accessories off the dock, and not your laptop, you should have no issues with charging and the longevity of your laptops battery. (Note: on further testing, running a Parallels Windows 10 VM can cause my MacBook to use battery for supplemental power. I recommend using your laptops included charger for demanding workloads.) Now for the noise, this dock is equipped with a blower fan, something I've not heard of with other docks. This makes perfect sense though since this dock can house 2x M.2 drives. Those drives, plus all the power delivery, and controllers means that this dock will get warm if you start to push it. I attempted to cover up the intake and exhaust vents on this dock with tape, which removed the "whooshing" of the fan but left the high pitch whine of the fan motor spinning. Pick your poison, but I think leaving it the way it is is a more pleasing sound than just high pitch whining. This fan is why I give this dock 3/5 starts. I suggest turning on the AC, wearing headphones, or playing some music over your laptops speakers. At half volume, my MacBook Pros speakers fully drown out the fan noise. I recommend unplugging this dock when not in use to save your sanity. Overall, this is a powerful dock for the price (I got it on Amazon for ~$230). The loud fan puts a real damper on what would otherwise be one of the best docks on the market. I would recommend it for the price if you accept that you're gonna have to unplug it while not using it and that while working you're gonna want some headphones or music to drown out the sound. I hope this review was helpful, its hard to find comprehensive information on this dock online so I figured I'd buy it and provide it.

OK so I was in a rush and did two big no nos. I didn't check if the laptop could turn on before screen replacement and I didn't disconnect the battery. While finishing up the repair a flex cable touch a capacitor and the tiniest bit of smoke came out. Did I fry it ? And what can I do to fix it? Like is there a resistors or capacitor I can swap I don't know if I can do a chip but a guide or some advice would really help thank you!

I am in the market for a rtx3080 and I have an I5-10400f cpu with 16gb ram 2tbhdd and 256gb ssd. Running 2 monitors. My PSU is The Be quiet 600w 80plus Bronze https://www.ebuyer.com/859749-be-quiet-600w-system-power-9-psu-bn247 I bought this a year ago. And at the moment running A GTX Titan 6gb Please help

I just bought the components for my first build: MSI RTX 3080 gaming Trio Z Ryzen 7 5800X (Without an IGPU) Cooler Master MasterLiquid ML240L RGB V2 ASUS ROG Strix B550-E Gaming PNY 3600MHZ 2x8gb RGB sticks MSI MPG Series A750GF 80 plus gold PSU Lian Li LanCool II mesh I'm quite unsure of the motherboards power consumption but the GPU and the CPU consume from 512-475 (According to tomshardware the CPU can reach 142 watts) so will this system work fine or not.

Planning a build with an i7-12700f. The mobo and PSU only have 1 8-pin CPU connector. Is this enough for this processor?

Edit: Solved. The ram was not properly mounted. The MSI 'Ez Debug' LEDs helped me figure this out. Hello, I'm trying to build a new PC and I ran into a problem :(GPU: RX 6750XTCPU: Ryzen 5800xMotherboard: MSI B550-A Pro Everything is mounted, yet the GPU wouldn't start. One problem is that 5800x does not have integrated graphics and I'm not sure how to troubleshoot the problems. Behavior: Power on => CPU fan working, Case fans working, no restart What I tried:- Changing RAM positions (A2 + B2, A2, B2). - Checked the power connectors multiple times. - Changing the GPU PCI-E power connectors. Used various combination of two cables + used both ends of the splitter cable. - I did a Bios Flash using the latest update. Everything worked as described in the tutorials. - I tried 2 different PCI-E x16 ports (gen3 and gen4). - Tried both the HDMI ports from the GPU and the Motherboard. The cable is fine. Questions: Any insights or ideas? How to test which component is broken? I guess I have to buy, test and return) a second GPU. Can the CPU and Motherboard usually be returned once used? Is it possible that I have broken something on the Motherboard/CPU?I tried my best not to spill, touch or hit anything by mistakes. I checked the CPU pins before mounting the CPU. The motherboard itself appears to work (CPU fan, Bios Flashing, Power Buttons, Leds, etc.). Can, theoretically, the GPU work if the CPU has problems? Can the problem be from the CPU instead?

Monitor: Viotek GN27D If I turn the monitor off with the power button, it will only turn back on if I unplug the monitor's power cord and plug it back in again. After turning it off, I have tried holding the power button down, pressing it multiple times, and pressing it and waiting for a while. The power button didn't always have this issue, it only cropped up more recently. It is no longer under warranty, as I bought it in 2019. I have heard of similar power issues being related to capacitors. I do not have a soldering kit or any experience with that. Should I order some parts and give it a try? The issue isn't quite bad enough to justify paying a professional.

Recently bought a new PC , it has a Ryzen 9 5950x, 3080ti, Rog Crosshair 8 Hero, and I got a 850W GQ EVGA PSU with it. I'm not sure if it's just Metal Gear Rising that's poorly optimized and it causes the GPU to power spike. But it keeps making my computer crash. I'm not sure if I need a new power supply but I hope not.

Hi Everybody so this will be my first proper post here but I have a problem with my graphics card. I have a Nvidia GTX 1650 4GB GDDR6 version and it has a stupid problem. So I have noticed while gaming that it will constantly hit a power limit usually at around 70% usage and then the clock speed will drop and frame rate go down. I know that most 1650 cards have a 75w due to only drawing power from the pcie port but I bought this card as it has a 6 pin power connector and I have seen some 1650 use 90w during use I have seen that it will only draw power from the slot and wont draw power from the 6 pin connector and the lack of power is holding it back slightly I feel like I am loosing 20% of my performance. I have emailed the manufacturer of my card and their reply was this card needs a 6 pin power connector to be able to reach 75w as the pcie slot only provides 66w which I know is wrong and they are just not being helpful. I paid extra for this card with the extra power connector over a regular 1650 it was something like £10 more so not enough more to upgrade further so no I am stuck with a card that I am unable to use to its full potential and I cant afford a new GPU I have been off sick for the last 2 months. The exact Card I have is a Palit GTX 1650 StormX D6 When I bought it the page said the average power was 75w not the max and Palits page just says graphics card power 75w nothing about that being the max. They also do a identical OC version of my card which has the same 75w I did almost buy that one so glad I didn't as it would of been even worse. So thankyou for any help anyone can give me as I don't know what to do and I feel like I have been scammed. I have already emailed the manufacture and I cant call them as the number is in Germany and I am in the UK I cant afford a call to another country

Is there a way to "turn off" my dGpu while only browsing the web etc? I opened msi afterburner on my aorus 17kgd laptop, and noticed my dgpu keeps clocking up and down, even while its not beeing used. Ive set the dgpu controle in nvidia to normal power, its either that or maximum performance, and ive also set the power management of the dgpu in the aorus controle center to nvidia gpu boost mode. So that in theory it should be turned off? As of now its consuming 20w off power while doing nothing, which imo is a lot. Also for some reason my cpu seems to run at max clock speed even while on balanced power mode in windows. This is all while the laptop is plugged in the charger.

Not a support question, just sharing my experience, and demonstrating why anybody who wants to run a home server absolutely, positively should have an UPS. Here in eastern Kentucky we have Kentucky Power. In some respects we're very fortunate. I've got symmetric gigabit fiber right to my house, I live on a large piece of land out in the woods with basically nobody around, so plenty of privacy. But, the power from Kentucky Power is very unreliable. We've probably got 99%+ up-time on the power, but we have at least a couple of extended power outages every year, and very frequent "flickers" where all you really see is maybe the lights dim or flicker for a fraction of a second. I've had this UPS for years now and replaced the battery once already. When I first replaced the battery the estimated (and actual) runtime with this exact same hardware setup was a little over an hour. Now it's down to less than half that, Since November 14th apcupsd on my home server has logged 45 "Power failure" events where the power either shut off, or at the very least, flickered enough to trigger a momentary transfer from mains power to the UPS. What "might" turn out to be good news is, Kentucky Power is being sold off to a different company and is being investigated for over-charging people after they straight up admitted that they literally "guessed" at the fuel cost and over-estimated, and are having to credit our bills, but honestly, the high bills would be a little easier to stomach if it wasn't so darn unreliable. I'm just glad my UPS monitoring works so well. The server powers itself down, turns itself back on, sends notifications to my Minecraft server, etc. The main storage drives are paired in software RAID 5 with an encrypted data partition, and contain a lot of sensitive information, so even though I have an offline backup, I would rather not have to use it because of AEP/KY Power's crappy service triggering a corruption during one of those brown-out/flicker moments. The two latest "extended" outages listed in the mobile app were planned outages for maintenance of overhead lines, but still annoying since we got zero notice ahead of time.

Summary Uk creating solar plant in space, this allows higher yield of power and then beam it to the earth. 50 major aerospace companies have joined the initiative and will be launced by 2035 Quotes My thoughts I never knew beaming electricity is possible. Hope no flight cross its path. Imagine the energy passing through air. My concerns is poor birds that will pass by? Will there be any unforeseen environmental impact in the name of zero emission. Sources https://www.space.com/space-based-solar-power-plant-2035

Budget (including currency): unlimited Country: India ok so I have 800 watts of pc, a 4K tv, 2 displays and an apple mac mini that would need to be connected to a ups, now I have backup generators in my place that can power everything but it takes 10 seconds for the engine to rev up, during which time there is no power, enough for the computers to die, now I need a ups, perhaps 2 that can sustain all of these devices for a minute at most ( if there are 2 ups’ one will need to power 300 watts of stuff and the other will do the rest, I can’t change that as that is how the desks are placed) unlimited budget, the sockets in India are 220-240 volt and I have something around 15 amp breakers so pls help me find the cheapest ups that can fit the criteria either one or 2 ups’ will do ( 2 might be preferable as it’ll help with the wiring) note smart ups’ which connect with the generator or something are not possible, all they should be able to do is sit between the wall and the pc’s and make sure the power is uninterrupted from the power going out to the generator automatically kicking in

Hey guys! I'm currently working on a build in a lian li lancool 205 and everything seems to be in working order except the case fans. I've plugged the cables from the fan hub into their respective connections on the motherboard(ROG strix b550a) but the case fans are not spinning or lighting up. What should I do? I've tried plugging the fans in separately without the hub and they at least spin. Could it be a bad hub?

Hi all! I am Rob and I repair consoles and PCs here in Spain. So a friend brought over his PC to replace the thermal paste on his CPU. His build was build very messy, no cable management at all. So after doing some cable management I changed his thermal compound and reassembled his rig. I connected everything reinstalled the GPU and gave the PC a test. This message popped up: Please Power down and connect the PCIe power cable for this Graphics card. Tested the GPU in my rig and it is not working there either. I took it apart and there nothing visibly wrong with it. I connected the power cable to the GPU. And everything is connected on the Motherboard. The PC boots into windows with the integrated graphics if I take the GPU out. Specs: Motherboard: MSI Z170A pc mate CPU: inter core i7 PSU: 650W Corsair VS GPU: Gigabyte GTX 1060 windforce oc 6Gb Ram: 16gb DDR4 Thermal compound: mx4 non conductive. What am I missing?

TL;DR: Sometimes my PC restarts 2 times instead of waking up, at first there's no display output, then there is, then it restarts one more time. The time in Windows is wrong and there's nothing in event viewer. My PC also sometimes restarts by itself (Machine Check Exception; Cache Hierarchy Error in event viewer) Hello, sometimes (about once a month) when I wake up my PC from sleep instead of normal behaviour it does this (always in this order): 1. fans start to spin but no display output for about a minute 2. it turns off 3. after 5 seconds it turns on 4. fans spin faster but no display output 5. fans spin slower, no display 6. fans spin faster, no display 7. fans spin slower, Asrock logo appears 8. after 10s Asrock logo disappears, fans spin faster 9. fans spin slower, Asrock logo appears (with the keyboard shortcuts for entering BIOS in the bottom right corner), BIOS keyboard shortcuts disappear and the Windows 10 loading wheel appears, the PC boots, but it takes shorter to boot than normally, in the event viewer it just says it has entered sleep and after about a minute it has woken up 10. after booting the time in Windows is wrong, sometimes it's wrong by 20 minutes backwards, sometimes by a couple of hours (might be the last time when I put my PC to sleep, not sure though, also when I sometimes - not immediately after this problem occurs - check the time in BIOS, it's correct) When I usually turn on my PC (after shutting down normally), the fans spin faster, then they slow down and then the Asrock logo appears (first with the BIOS keyboard shortcuts, then with the loading wheel). So when this "problem" happens, it looks as if the PC rebooted 2 times without display output, then once with display output and then it boots. I tried to reset BIOS settings (BIOS is not updated), uninstall some software running in background, change power plans (however I did not try changing settings such as hybrid sleep etc), disable global C-States, update drivers and Windows, nothing helped. I haven't tried changing the CMOS battery, but the PC is only 1 and a half years old so it shouldn't be a problem. I don't know if it's related, but my PC also sometimes restarts by itself without BSOD (sometimes it's once a month, sometimes 3 times in 3 days in a row, however it has not happened in the last 4 months) and in event viewer it says: A fatal hardware error has occurred. Reported by component: Processor Core Error Source: Machine Check Exception Error Type: Cache Hierarchy Error Processor APIC ID: 0 or 1 (this number changes) Specs: Desktop CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 (stock clocks) Mobo: Asrock B450 Steel Legend BIOS version: P3.20 RAM: Corsair Vengeance 3200 Mhz CL16 (XMP off) GPU: GTX 1660 Super 6GB GPU drivers: Game Ready 511.23 CPU cooler: Arctic Freezer 34 eSports One PSU: Seasonic Gold GM 650W Case: Corsair Spec-Delta SSD: Kingston A400 480GB Age of my PC: 1 and a half years Thank you for your help!

So while waiting for a week with no PC as my graphics card was in transit to me. Finally got it today and put it in. switch PSU on and no light on my motherboard. Oh no indeed. check PSU. 24 pin cables two the one the power supply came with and the custom one I’ve been using. Tried everything I could think of and still no lights turn on to motherboard so I can’t boot as it has lights before anything. I tested cables with a 24 pin power tester the fans and GPU fans spin up but not when connected to motherboard. Has it bricked itself with a week not being on? It is an Asus x570 TUF. Do I need to contact asus for RMA? I don’t have PC funds as I said got a new GPU. With all I had. Anything I can do or is it done?

Quick question, should I use sleep mode on my pc when I'm not using it? Is it safe with a UPS on? And is my UPS good for my specs? My UPS is a 650VA My specs: CPU: Intel Core i5-9400F GPU: Nvidia GTX 1050TI 4gb CPU Cooler: 2x120mm fans with a heatsink Ram: 8gb 2666mhz Motherboard: Gigabyte h310m PSU: Acepower 650w 80plus bronze HDD: 1x500gb 1x2TB SSD: 120gb Misc: 6xRGB Fans, 1xFan Controller

So basically I’m moving into my trailer for a month or 2 while we transition between houses and I need a way to power my pc without running my generator on my trailer all day long can anyone help ?

Hey, so I was just doing my usual stuff... Editing while listening to YouTube and such and suddenly my PC turns off for no reason and when I try to turn it back on, it won't start back up again. I suspect it might be the PSU that probably just died, I have tested it with different outlets and such but still nothing. What's going on here? P.S. My temps are fine and wasn't doing intense editing either so I don't really know what's the problem here. EDIT: I've swapped my old broken PSU to a new one and it works now...

Hello LTT Forum, I was wondering if there is any way that I can build low power system, that would be running only VM, containers. I would like to use i5 8600K (Once ZEN 4 will be out, I am planning to buy a new Ryzen, so this processor will not be in use anymore. I have no idea how to make this processor a low power one. I read about underclocking and undervolting but I am afraid of doing this and I would appreciate any help with this. What would be minimal power draw of this system? I would love to see it under 20w, but I have no idea if is this possible. Thank you in advance for the future advices

Hey so i have a toshiba x300 5Tb hdd and the plastic bit on the sata power connector broke off. I ordered a replacment board on ebay and didnt realise that it was for the 4tb version (idk if thats important or not) when i swaped the boards out the device starts to show up and says it needs to be initialized. When i initialize it the hdd dissapears. Not sure whats going on there and im very new to soldering and figured id check here and see if there is anything else to try first. I dont care if the data is lost its mostly steam games anyways just want the drive to work again. Thanks in advance and if you need any more info id be glad to give it.

Hey folks, I have been hunting for new surge protectors for my stuff, computer included, and have read a good deal about the clamping voltage, essentially the amount of power that can go through a protector before it kicks in. Most that I have seen are rated at 400-500v. I purchased this unit APC Surge Protector with USB Ports, P11U2 due to some different references on the page to different clamping voltages. I know that APC is a good brand, however, I received the unit and discovered it was in fact neutral (L-N) rating of 400V, line to ground (L-G) rating of 500V and neutral to ground (N-G) rating of 500V. However, am I just overthinking it? This protector has very good reviews, and people wouldn't be buying this thing over and over again if it was frying electronics right? Should I find another surge protector to get instead? Do you have any recommendations?