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This computer that I got was a Latitude 3450 that I got about 3-5 years ago, and had originally stopped working because of an overheating battery. The computer was from an old business that was getting rid of their old laptops, so I didn't get this computer new. It had stayed inactive for about 3 to 4 years until now I had bought a new battery, and got it working, but then it just restarted out of nowhere. After a couple restarts and BSoDs, DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL(storport.sys stopped working at that point) and eventually the MACHINE_CHECK_EXECPTION happened and it said that it would restart automatically, but it didn't, so I restarted it, and then it froze on the part where it said Getting Windows ready, don't turn off your computer" So I left it there for about 10 minutes and I had no choice but to turn it off. So I decided to change the ram, but I tried many different compatible sticks, but it wouldn't turn on. I believe my battery is fine because I just got it new, but I could be wrong. And my charger is also fine. I even tried using a different hard drive, so I don't believe it was corrupted files, bc it wont even go to the bios. My Ram is also fine bc it was working with it earlier. I tried to contact dell support, but I couldn't due to no warranty, and I really don't want to call them. One odd thing is that the power button icon's light is on(see picture 1) when I hold the power button, but a little after I let go, the light turns off. But the icon with the battery symbol doesn't turn on(see picture one). I just learned that my old battery does in fact work(image 2), but also wont boot. This was the battery that had overheating issues, so I don't like testing it, but I will test it if that is the last resort. I even tried using just the charger, but it still didn't boot. If you need me to go more in depth about what I was doing at the time, just ask me in the comments.

Hello, I set up my pc about a month ago and only now I noticed it works fine, I turn on the pc it also works well but I noticed that all the boxes give light on the power button on the pc mine does not give the light on the power button because will it be? wanted to solve my box is a Lian Li PC-O11D Evo Thank you so much if you can help me!

Ok so I am getting an RTX 3060 and I was looking at this: https://www.amazon.com.au/Gigabyte-GeForce-3060-Gaming-GV-N3060GAMING-OC-12GD-2-0/dp/B0971BG25M/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1PE1VRBK95OLL&keywords=3060&qid=1664849930&qu=eyJxc2MiOiI0LjYwIiwicXNhIjoiMy44NiIsInFzcCI6IjMuMTQifQ%3D%3D&s=electronics&sprefix=30%2Celectronics%2C311&sr=1-5 But it has come to my attention that the RTX 3060 is rated for 170w and can spike up to 200w, However Gigabyte and all the other GPU brands decided to make it a single 8Pin PCIe connector from the PSU despite it being rated for only 150w, How does this make sense? I read that the motherboard PCIe slot can provide up to 75w but is it fine to use that or should I get a premium (Strix or AORUS) and pay $100-$150 more to get an extra 6Pin connector, or is 8Pin enough? I would probably get this if I needed to get the 8+6 Pin power https://www.scorptec.com.au/product/graphics-cards/nvidia/90375-gv-n3060aorus-e-12gd-r2.0/exdemo do you all think this would work? One other thing that doesnt matter as much but is still relevent I beleive is that I am also getting Lian Li 2*8pin strimmer cables so it would look better with the 8+6 connecter rather than just 8

Hi everyone, after a long time of running a gt710 I finally have the opportunity to upgrade to a GTX760. However, I have noticed that my PSU has only 2 extra molex connectors, and the GPU has one 6-pin and one 8-pin connectors. Would it be possible to run just the 6-pin, and leave the 8-pin unpopulated? Alternatively, could I run a 6-pin and an 8pin adapter off just 2 molex? I should note that I don't have the GPU yet, I've got an opportunity to buy it though.

Basically it rain HARD last night, we had no power and such, and I think the windows are not properly sealed because it's noticeably humid, now the next day i try to turn on my PC and it's not doing so and oddly enough the case is grounded, I tried different outlets and it's still not powering on, i followed some videos online and jumped the power supply and the fan spins but when I try to jump the motherboard it's not working, basically I'm asking for a second opinion, my motherboard is broken right? Should I be worried about the other components like cpu and gpu? Did moisture killed my motherboard?

So my monitor won't turn on sometimes. No power even when I plug it to other outlet. It only happen sometimes though. Whenever it turns on I see no problem from it. When it won't turn on, I usually wait a few hours before turning it on again and it works fine. But what if I don't have time to wait a couple of hours? Please help, is it a problem with electricity or idk, the cpu and other gadgets seems to not have the same problem. First time it happened, I thought it was broken and brought it to a repair shop but when they plugged it, it was fine. I was confused and when I brought it home and plugged it, there was no problem. After that, I just got used to just waiting a few hours before turning it on again whenever it doesn't turn on.

Just my annual PSA in advance of this years folding month. Please take the time to go over your rig. Clean out the dust filters to start the event fresh. Power down the system and check the power cord at both ends for signs of arcing. You shouldn't run a rig off an extension cord for long periods but if you must make sure it is a "beefy" one with 14awg wire.

I'm getting a new motherboard today (have all the other parts) and I noticed it has an extra 4pin connector next to the 8pin PC connector. From research I did, it sounds like that's for overclocking but most of the posts were from several years ago. I do plan to order an adapter but my power supply doesn't currently have a 4pin. Will the PC work fine in the meantime? Motherboard: ASUS Prime X670-P CPU: AMD RYZEN 9 7950x

ok so i have been trying to use power automate to do a few things on my laptop, i have noticed that as soon as i try to do anything the whole laptop creeps down to a crawl and when i check task manager it shows that power automate is using 6%of my gpu, now my laptop has an i7 10510U with the igpu, is it possible that i need to get a system with a dedicated gpu to be able to get it to let me make a flow without slowing my desktop to 1fps? the software runs slow when I try to make a flow also i have been wondering, when will i be able to look at ryzen 7000 gpus, considering that rtx4000 has been a bot underwhelming to say the least

When I hit the power button, the PC powers on for a second before shutting down again. Before this there were several random moments where it shutdown for no discernable reason, and the period between the shutdowns seemed to get smaller and smaller until it doesn't stay on for more than a second. I tried looking at Windows Event Viewer, but I didn't know what to look for and any critical errors I did find didn't seem related to the power situation. 1) cleaned out the PC of the dust 2) I replaced the PSU AND the power cable. 3) Had it assembled and reassembled by PC repair shop, twice. They said the components were working fine and suggested it was a power cable problem. This fixed the problem for couple of days until the shutdown problem happened again. 4) Now I found out the new wrinkle in the problem, that given a whole day the problem fixes itself, but I'm not sure if it's a permanent fix. Has anyone else faced the same problem? edit: the problem came back, but I unplugged it and plugged it into another socket in the power strip. And the problem is solved for the moment. A friend suggested the issue might be the fuse for my room might be faulty, but if that was the case it would affect the monitor, the lights and the ceiling fan too. I really need an answer because my job requires that I run a program for 6+ hours, and need reliable power for my computer.

What difference between VRM Config 12+2 vs 10+3 ??? Thnx

Hey forums. I have a problem with my PC. I recently bought some more ram for my computer so I could run stuff faster, but didn’t know that different voltage types of ram would be bad. I tried running 1.2 V ram and 1.3 v ram with each other and probably hurt something in my computer. I’m not sure if I hurt the power or what, but I have reset the CMOS a billion times and nothing happens. It doesn’t boot. I would appreciate some help and maybe a way I could fix this, thank you! CPU - Ryzen 5600x GPU - Radeon 580 Motherboard - Asrock B450 Pro4-f 1.2 ram - Geil EVO Potenza DDR4 1.35 ram - Ripjaws V DDR4 My plan is to scrap my old stick of ram and have 2 new 1.35 v sticks in my PC. But when I try, it doesn’t boot. 68617345937__9904101E-D635-49C6-8D1C-1DF15069767E.MOV

I’m pretty hesitant on what does my pc problem is but I have a clue that it might be the loose monitor power cable, because whenever I turn on the CPU it completely works but as soon as I open it my monitor shows its brand, “low power mode” then suddenly turns off as in its light is turning red from white. And whenever I unplug the HDMI cable it says that “no signal or device” which means my monitor is completely fine, and even the headset, keyboard, mouse are working fine even the cpu it even does a sound of windows opening but the display is still off/black and its power light is color red. I’m just getting nervous about it and worrying if it might be another problem or what. Can someone assist me what is happening on my pc? Thanks a lot

TDP for this card is 340W. I raise the power slider to 110, which means the total TDP for the card should be 370W. Even though its raised, the card still power limits around 100% TDP or, 340w-350w. It never actually gets to 370w and stays there. This results in heavy power limiting during overclocking. Is there any way to circumvent this? Make the PCIE slot draw the full 75w and the two 8 pins 150w each? I notice this is an issue among other 2 8 pin cards such as the 3080 xc3. But, I notice its not prevalent on the 3080 FE, which uses two 8 pins for the 12 pin connector but still uses the full 375W as seen in jays overclocking the 3080 video. I find this completely idiotic that a FE 3080 can pull more watts than a AIB card.

MSI B560M-A PRO Overview The motherboard seems to have a 5+2 power phase VRM... Can that handle a monster 10-core/20-thread CPU? (The i9-10900F is on the list of supported processors for the motherboard).

My PC spec CPU : i7 8700k Ram : 32GB Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro GPU : Gigabyte RTX 3080 Board : ASUS ROG MAXIMUS X HERO PSU : CORSAIR - RM850x I noticed when running a benchmark that the most power my 3080 draws is around 212W max and my board is 365W. I thought the 3080 should go up to 320W max. Is there something wrong here?

So when I turn on "memory integrity" and have "fast startup" enabled (yes I restarted after changing those options) my PC won't just stay off after I press "shut down". Instead it restarts / turns itself back on. Turning one of the before mentioned options off fixes the problem. But I want both on. My guess is there is some BIOS/UEFI option that causes the problem.

I'm planning to upgrade my gpu and noticed that I have a caveman power supply which uses molex, and the gpu i am planning to buy has 8 pin 6+2 connector, for piece of mind, I should buy a dual molex to 8pin right? just plug those 2-4 pins to the power supply then attach the 8 pin on the gpu right?

So I live in an area where we experience frequent load shedding everyday (3-4 times, someday it's even more than 6 times). I have an UPS which gives me usually not more than 5 minutes but it is enough for me to properly close all apps and shut down pc manually. But I wanted to know will it cause any harm to my computer if I turn on and off pc this many times a day. Also I wanted to know if I can use my pc without an UPS because sudden load shedding will immediately turn off the system without any "proper shut down". Thank You!

Ahoy! Today I was the lucky recipient of a very shitty yet competent looking PC that serves well for my multimedia purposes on TV. That being said, it does not turn on. Try as I might, nothing worked. So I pulled out the power cables, and I plugged around... for an hour, with the manual, and nothing worked. I also found this weird white connector from the power supply, that had this like wedge shape like as if it were to fit in a kind of notch. Anyways, I'm stumped. How do I connect it all? A sort of visual representation of how to lay it out would be nice. Thank you, and I'm sorry if I seem a little dumb or I just missed something, I just kind of had a long day )': -RA111

PC Specs: Windows 11 Pro 64bit CPU: i9 12900k MB: Gigabyte Aorus z690 Elite AX DDR4 (BIOS F3a) RAM: 64GB Corsair Vengence RGB Pro 3200 (XMP Enabled) SSD: 980 pro 1TB PSU: beQuiet Dark Power 12 1000w. GPU: Gigabyte Aorus 2080ti Waterforce Extreme / Zotac RTX 3090ti AMP Custom loop with dual 280mm radiators. Was running the new GPU on air first before buying waterblock (good thing I waited). Hi all, Hope to see if anyone knows what else I can do to troubleshoot this before I return one or both products. Did an upgrade from a 2080ti to a 3090ti as well as a PSU upgrade (From a 750w corsair to beQuiet! 1000w). Once I got everything working (initially screen was black after login, did clean driver install with DDU to fix), the first load I put on my new 3090ti caused the whole system to freeze. Rebooted, froze again. Sometimes the PC would restart completely but no video after the reboot (would then have to hard restart). Did another complete driver reinstall along with a reseat of the card, still freezing. I read that this could be related to the power supply. I know the bequiet PSU has the Overclocking option for a single 12v rail, so I tried both with and without that enabled. Also tried a combination of them being on separate rails or the same rail with the OC mode disabled. Nothing fixed the freezing issue. That being said, I am currently typing from said computer with the 2080ti reinstalled after putting it under a full load with OC up to 265w and no freezing. I was also getting a constant (10000+) error in the event viewer about PCI Express Root Port. I'm still getting that error but not constant anymore (with the 2080ti reinstalled) so it may be unrelated. I don't have another power supply that's sufficient to test to see if it's the PSU or if its the GPU so I'm not sure where to go from here.

For a while now I have been struggling with strange USB dropouts; ranging from my keyboard no longer functioning to sometimes every USB port dropping out including the USB headers. I am not using any hubs either. This problem happens at a roll of a die, but usually happens at start up and usually if there is no activity to the impacted device (this tends to be my keyboard most times; so if I don't touch my keyboard then this issue happens). The total USB disconnect has only happened twice but still has happened more times than it should. When it does happen; it's as if both power and data have been disconnected and reconnected however nothing happens on screen and the computer seems to work as intended; not even Event Viewer will register the event. When it's only the keyboard or mouse; the power is still going to them (they are RGB devices so they still light up), but the animation to the RGB freezes until I disconnect the device and plug it back in. Now more recently, as this part is an update of sorts to the previous paragraph, using Mega to sync files from an external drive to the cloud; will cause a complete mass disconnect with all USB drives AND the onboard Bluetooth module gets disconnected. I have had the ethernet port drop out twice as well. Everything points to the motherboard, but it was doing this with the previous board as well (as I have RMAed this board before with them sending me a new one in exchange). Some forums suggest it's the z690 chipset as it is happening on Asus, MSI, and Gigabyte (so not just one specific manufacturer). Others suggest it could be a PSU or RAM issue, but after testing RAM it then doesn't seem to be the case and power doesn't seem to be the issue either as there are plenty of times the system works perfectly fine with everything connected and can last for a few days to a couple of weeks like this even under heavy usage. Update: I have done more research and have found the issue leads to an error message via Reliability Monitor: Received a "Live Kernel Event" code 144: LKD_0x144_CONTEXT_ERROR_AFTER_STALL_RESET_EP_USBXHCI!TelemetryData_CreateReport_VEN_8086_DEV_7ae0_REV_0011 This error seems to relate to the USB3.2 eXtensible Host Controller 1.20 (Microsoft). Not sure what I can do to fix this as uninstalling it and reinstalling doesn't help. Forums discussing similar issues: https://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?128826-Z690-and-USB-issues I have done the following: Disabled USB power management/letting system turn it off RMAed Motherboard with a total different motherboard coming back updated BIOS updated Windows Upgraded Windows from 10 to 11 Tried different USB ports Tried the mouse, keyboard, and other USB devices on another device; they seem to work just fine/as intended Disabled C-States Tried Powered USB Hub updated PD Disabled Fast Boot Disabled PCIE Native Power Management Changed M.2 and PCIE to Gen 3 Tested RAM with MemTest: Pass Used Task Manager, Event Viewer, Reliability Monitor, and Resource Monitor to track. Errors are not shown except in Reliability Monitor: LKD_0x144_CONTEXT_ERROR_AFTER_STALL_RESET_EP_USBXHCI!TelemetryData_CreateReport_VEN_8086_DEV_7ae0_REV_0011 Uninstalled and reinstalled the USB3.2 eXtensible Host Controller 1.20 (Microsoft) Disabled XHCI in Bios My specs are: Windows 11 Pro 64 bit Asus z690 Extreme (BIOS version 1505; though this issue has been going on since 3 prior revisions) Intel i7 12700k (no overclock currently) 2 kits of Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR5-5600 PC5-44800 CL36 Dual Channel Desktop Memory Kit CMT32GX5M2X5600 - Total of 64GB RAM (not overclocked currently)(Also I know mixing kits are bad, but currently 4 stick kits aren't offered) EVGA 3080Ti (no overclock currently) Samsung 980 Pro SSD 1TB M.2 NVMe Boot Drive using the DIMM connector 2 2TB Samsung 850 EVO SSD EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G6 USB items: Logitech Proteus Spectrum Logitech G910 keyboard Lian-Li fan hub with 6 UNIFans (3 controlled directly; other 3 are controlled only for RGB and attached to AiO) - USB Header 1 MSI MEG Core Liquid S360 AIO (Controlling the 3 other UNIFans) - USB Header 2 Small 4TB USB External Large 4TB USB External with its own power Small USB C 1TB External Corsair USB cable for headset charging Corsair USB dongle for headset Logitech c920 Webcam (newest edition to the list)

Greetings Community, I have been trying to decide between several UPS power supplies around 1000 watts. The goal was about $150, but prices seem to have gone up so keeping it about $200 or under is the price I have to hit. I had someone tell me that they prefer APC over cyber-power due to easier and usually cheaper battery replacements - so I would like to hear your opinion on that statement. Note that I would also like this UPS system to act as a decent surge protector. 1: This is a UPS system I have had very good experiences with - CyberPower CP1350PFCLCD - https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N19M/ 2: A UPS system from APC that potentially looks good - APC PRO BN1500M2 - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1383478-REG/apc_bn1500m2_back_ups_pro_bn.html 3: A cheaper, also decent looking UPS system from APC that I could maybe save a buck with? - APC Pro BX1500M - https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1322674-REG/apc_back_ups_pro_bx1500m.html If you have any other suggestions for a UPS systems around this price point, please let me know which one and why!

No matter what i try, i cant get rid of the "smartmanager" power plans, those are very annoying. Ive got an Auros 17g kd laptop, and ive tried deleting the powerplans both in control panel and this way : How to Delete or Restore Windows Power Plans - MajorGeeks but after i restart, the powerplans are back. And everytime i unplug my laptop it automatically goes too smartmanager power saver, that is super annoying. Is there no fix?

Hello guys! I’ll explain the situation the best I can. I was surfing the Internet after a couple hours of gaming when the power was cut off for 2-3 seconds. The PC started by itself but it doesn’t boot (a simple push of the power button immediately shuts down the power). This is with the RX 480 inside. I’ve switched to another GPU from another PC (a GTX 1650) and with that card everything works just fine, from the 1st try. And when I shut the PC down from the button, it takes a few good seconds to be done, unlike when it doesn’t boot with the RX 480 (that’s why I suppose it doesn’t boot with the RX). The PSU is powerful enough and the system is compatible, everything worked fine for years, and in other cases of power shortages I just powered the PC again and that was it. (Lately, at night, power shortages occur..) Does anybody know what the problem can be? I already tried to remove the mobo battery and other solutions found online, but none of the issues were identical to mine, and since the PC works fine with another GPU I tend to believe that the RX 480 is dead. Unfortunately, the other PSU I have does not have the right PCI-E cable in order for me to test it in the other PC and see if it’s really gone. Does anybody have any ideas? Many thanks!