Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'power'.
-
I'm hoping someone might know what's causing this. My computer has been having this issue where I can power it off but cannot power it back on without resetting my surge protector. I'm on this computer as I write this. It runs perfectly fine and there are no indications it's struggling for power or anything else is struggling peripherally. All fans are running, all lights work, nothing sounds or seems off about it at all. If I turn off the computer and try to turn it back on, it appears as though there's no power and the computer refuses to respond at all. I suspect the issue may be the surge protector as when I reset it, the issue corrects itself. I believe I have a number of power hungry items and this is resulting in the PC becoming sensitive to the power being consumed by the other items on the same surge protector. I have my PC I have two screens screens I have my Rodecaster Pro ii I have my internet routers I also have two peripherals attached to the computer (An Elgato Stream Deck and a Key Light) My Surge Protector is a - APC Surge Protector Power Strip with a 4320 Joule capacity. This in turn plugs into a TESSEN brand smart outlet box on my wall outlet. The plug the surge protector is connected to is not one of the smart outlets. Obviously, there can be something wrong with the computer as well but the fact this issue was tied to my surge protector makes me think it's external. I'm hoping someone can shed some light on what I can do or what tests I can run to rule out any bigger issues. If it does turn out it's a surge protector, is there a higher capacity one you can suggest which may help prevent this going forward? Edit: I unplugged my Rodecaster Pro ii and my entire system booted up. It's not the computer. It's a conflict with the power draw of the Rodecaster competing with my computer. -
Motherboard power phases what's the best one out of these? 8+1+1 phase power supply vs 7+1+1 vs Hybrid 6+2+1 Phases. I got no idea what this means. Lga 1700 boards. Will be using 12400f. Terminator B760M GKD5 (maxsun.com) 8+1+1 ASRock > B760M-HDV/M.2 7+1+1 B760M GAMING (rev. 1.2) Key Features | Motherboard - GIGABYTE Global Hybrid 6+2+1
-
The other day i bought a used PowerColor Red Devil RX 6800 XT. When playing games, especially at high frame rates and in game menus i hear a coil wine coming from my GPU and it's really annoying. I tried lowering the voltage to 1060mV and capping the frame rate to 140fps (bellow my monitor native refresh rate) and the noise does get lower but i can still hear it to the point of it annoying me just enough. The only culprit for this problem can be my PSU which is Chieftec ECO 700W GPE-700S https://www.chieftec.eu/products-detail/118/ECO_SERIES/122/GPE-700S It's an European PSU that focuses on power efficiency and saving energy and it's a brand that hardly any Americans have even heard of. I was thinking of buying a new more expensive PSU like the Corsair RM850e, which is not only Fully-Modular, but also has two different PCI-E cables unlike mine which only came with one. I've heard people saying that plugging two (6+2) pins from two different PCI-E cables does help with lowering coil whine noise. Also on the PowerColor website it does say that the "Minimum Recommended PSU" for their RX 6800 XT is 850W. So it's maybe mine fault for not talking that seriously. So, what are your thoughts? I don't want to end up buying a 100$ more expensive PSU just to have the same coil whine noise again. That's why i need yours reassurance! The rest of my specs: CPU: Ryzen 5 5600 MB: MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max RAM: HyperX Predator 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 3200 PSU: Chieftec ECO 700W GPE-700S
-
So I first discovered this problem when i was trying to play roblox and warzone on my pc, i would get like 5 fps on warzone and some random days i would get like 15 fps on roblox on the lowest graphics settings. I fixed the roblox issue by closing my extremely large amount of browser tabs open, but this didnt help warzone. I did a usertesting benchmark and it said everything is underperforming EXCEPT my hdd. I never checked if it was doing this before, but all games ran completely playable on low settings 1080p. PC specs: gtx 1650 super ryzen 5 3600 2x8gb tforce rgb 3600mgz ddr4 evga 600w psu silver certification 120gb m.2 ssd asrock b450m steel legend mobo 1tb velociraptor 10000rpm hdd Additional info that might be helpful: I leave my pc running 24/7 with a restart around every month i used to cryptomine on it (but reset my pc afterwards) my m.2 ssd is very full and by hdd is about 3/4 full the screen used to glitch out a ton and the audio would get all messed up when i bumped into the pc even slightly, but does not do this anymore, idk why it stopped i tried to overclock the ram and about 2 weeks later the pc would constantly crash, had to bring it to best buy and they said my os got corrupted(not sure if related) task manager says no heating issues, and no resources really get past 30 percent use even when playing games(havent tested heavy load games) i occasionally edit videos on my pc i already cleaned out about 70 percent of the dust, my spray can was kinda weak though pc about 2-3 years old the ssd couldnt get tested properly, idk why though Any help is very appreciated, i will try to put a picture of my benchmark results
-
Hi, I am looking for detailed info about the efficacy and differences between core voltage offset and offset steps in Curve Optimizer for Ryzen 5000 Please only respond after you have read my post to the end Some specific answers I am after but not limited to: What is the actual effect of Curve Optimizer if it is not the same as core voltage offset? If they are the same, what is the voltage offset applied when Curve Optimizer value is set? The feasibility of using both core voltage offset together with Curve Optimizer (let's say negative offset for both) What I already know so please don't repeat it to me: Core voltage offset applies to all cores. Curve Optimizer can be configured per-core Negative Curve Optimizer value, on its own, is not considered as an undervolt because CPU will just be at a higher frequency for the same power draw (and so is negative core voltage offset when used on its own) Type of info I am looking for: Info from AMD themselves Info from users who have tested both methods and THE MEASURABLE DATA from their test outcomes (not just an opinion or conclusion) Data charts or tables if Curve Optimizer values are actually hardcoded and not linear Type of responses I am NOT looking for: "I do this and it works for me" "This is better" without explanation or citation "Consensus indicates this method is better" without explanation Citations/references that merely written and not backed by research, AMD or mobo manufacturers "They do the same thing" without further details This is not about what CPU I have or what I intend to do with it from the info gathered. Thanks -
I was able to get a Sunlu Filadryer S4 from their Kickstarter, and I love the ability to use 4 different spools at a time. The only issue I have is that the 120v LED bulbs and LED "shop lights" I have in my room start to flicker, and very noticeably. I have an Oscilloscope that I connected to my outlets and there is a noticeable fluctuation in the voltage rising and dropping 2-3V ONLY when this filament dryer is on. I have tried unplugging everything connected to this circuit and the oscilloscope still shows the fluctuations in the power. I am simply wondering if there is a cheap fix to this, be it a power conditioner, a back up power bank for it, or if I will need to run an extension cord across my hallway to have steady lighting. Things normally plugged into this circuit is a MSI laptop (210 watt Power supply), Creality K1 3D printer, and an assortment of soldering irons, suckers, hot air guns. 2 of the LED "shop lights" and 5 of the LED 120v bulbs 2 of which are in the existing ceiling light fixture.. The circuit is a 20 amp breaker and is only ran to the one room. If need be I can record the signal on my computer and upload it if that would help, hoping there is a simple solution. LED "shop lights" I have(amazon) https://a.co/d/bcucYWf LED bulbs I have (amazon) https://a.co/d/iOvgUik
-
Hi All, Looking at setting up an external power button for a HP EliteDesk 800 G3 Mini and wondering the best way to do this as the power button is hardwired on this device. Any advise appreciated. Cheers, Treewalker2
-
Ok, little bit of a click-bait title. I know that I need to turn off my subwoofer and monitors before restarting, which is what I do. The REAL question is what can I do to avoid needing to crawl under my desk to turn off my subwoofer? My thought is that the popping occurs because my audio interface is USB-powered and the popping occurs when the interface loses power (or when it turns back on, not 100% sure which). I wonder if I got one that was self-powered, it might solve the problem? Any other suggestions on what I might do to avoid having to crawl under my desk to turn off the subwoofer? Thanks!
-
Budget (including currency): $2k-3k CAD Country: Canada Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Streaming and gaming at ultra settings at 1080p (for now) Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): I am looking to upgrade my pc but i am concerned about cooling and power, any advice regarding better upgrades or anything else would be helpful! my current build is * Motherboard - MSI Z370 carbon pro gaming * CPU - i7 8700k * GPU - Gigabyte geforce GTX 1080 * PSU - Corsair RM750x * Cpu Cooler - Phanteks PH-TC12DX (i beleive) * Ram - 2x16gb corsair vengance lpx 3600mhz * Storage - samsung evo 960 250 gb, xpg 1tb NVME, toshiba HDWE140 4tb and two other hybrid drives i snagged from a couple ps4 i helped upgrade * Fans - 3x 120mm fans + 1x 200mm fan I want to put in * i7 14700K * Rtx 4080 super * Z790 motherboard Do i have to worry about anything? i feel like my power supply and cooling might be inadequate. Edit: in a cooler master storm stryker case
-
Hey people! I have had my pc pc shut off randomly during gaming since i built it and i have honestly tried everything (i think) to try and troubleshoot and fix this issue. My Specs: Gigabyte B650 Gaming X AX Motherboard rev 1.3 RTX 4070 TI Super TUF 16GB VRAM Ryzen 7 7800X3D_ Kingston FURY Beast DDR5-6000 C36 DC - 32GB (AMD EXPO)_ 850W PSU Plus Gold Certified_ What I've tried: (probably forgotten a few things on this list but please give some ideas) Completely uninstall and re-install Nvidia Drivers Tried a different GPU (RTX 4070 TI) so its not a defect on the gpu thats causing this Used to use 700W PSU (A few years old) then yesterday bought a 850W new PSU, issue still continued) Checked temperatures on the components and they are not overheating Checked Reliabilty Viewer & Event Viewer for any weird things that could have happend on or right before shutdown) Reinstalled Windows 11 Tried also simple stuff like different power cable and plugging it directly into the socket in the wall Have reset CMOS too and still had the problem with all default BIOS Settings Tried different power plan to lower power consumption Tried Windows game settings like Game Mode & HAGS both on and off If anyone has any ideas on what more i could try or what the issue might be then please let me know!
-
Hello everyone, I'm facing a recurring issue with my gaming PC that I built two years ago. It's been running smoothly until recently when it started to shut down unexpectedly during graphically intense gaming sessions. It handles less demanding games like Minecraft or Smite without any problems, but when I switch to more demanding titles, it just powers off with no error message or warning. I thought it was a GPU problem initially, but after testing with three different graphics cards, the issue persists, which leads me to believe it might not be related to the GPU after all. I'm hesitant to keep purchasing new parts without identifying the root cause of the problem. Has anyone experienced something similar, or could you provide any insights into what could be causing these sudden shutdowns? I'm at a loss here and would greatly appreciate your help and suggestions. Here are my PC specs for reference: - AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 8-core processor - 16GB RAM - NVIDIA GeForce 2060 - 750W power supply Thank you in advance for your time and help! -
Im building my computer myself and I’ve just about built it. And there’s power going to the motherboard cause the lights are on but my computer won’t turn on and I can’t tell if it’s something I did wrong or if it’s my computer case. I’m pretty sure I have all the right wiring. If someone could help me I would be so thankful I have a prime b450m-all as my motherboard and I have a GeForce rtx 3060 and my ram is vengeance lpx and my power supply is a super flower leadex gold 3 and my cpu is a Ryzen 5 4500. HELP!!
-
This morning I tried turning my PC on but it won't. I tried switching the outlet, flipping the power switch on and off, but all that did was give me a start up light from my motherboard, fans started to turn, and the case lights lit up only for a second like it was about to turn on.
-
I was given an HP ProLiant ML330 G6. This is the first server that I have ever messed with, and I don't know what's going on. I believe I have everything connected correctly, but it will not power on. Do you have an idea of what it could be that is causing that? Also, I don't even know what I'm going to do with this thing. Do you have any ideas as well?
-
Can Power over Ethernet (PoE) function effectively with in-wall sockets positioned between the PoE switch and cameras/other devices in a network that includes two sockets? I've attached an image of the socket used for reference.
-
Hi all, I have a strange behavior. All 3 PSUs are working. (short wired them), but only one can make the mainboard start. 2 brand new one‘s don’t start the mainboard the old one is working and can start it. what the ….. Any ideas? BR Mogo
-
Motherboard: B650M Pro RS CPU: Ryzen 5 7600X GPU: Radeon RX 7800 XT Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL36 Memory PSU: Corsair CX650M (2021) 650 W BIOS: 1.28 Full PC Parts list: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/42CdJy Everything is brand new, help would be greatly appreciated All I have done before attempting to power up was, setting up the M.2 Nvme SSD, add in the 2 ram sticks in A1 and A2 slots, put in the CPU, and CPU Cooler, then I added in the 24 pin to ATXPWR1 and 8 pin to ATX12V1. When I turned on the PSU, the motherboard LEDs turned on but when I attempted to power on the board using the System panel header (PWRBTN# and GND) using my case's POWER SW cable, nothing happened, the CPU fans did not turn on, or anything else. I then attempted to use my screw driver to manually click on the power button, but nothing happened too. TLDR: PSU plugged in, motherboard light turns on, power button wont boot pc Steps that I have done: 1. Completely removed the CPU cooler and checked the CPU's orientation was correct and checked for damages. 2. Re-plugged the CPU Fan coolers into the correct CPU Fan pins on the motherboard. 3. Tried removing the RAM and only putting one at a time. 4. Checked to see if my power cables were plugged in correctly and in good orientation -
So does a device exist that can take in power from the outlet, store it like a battery, provide the needed power to A PC, monitor, etc. But use the battery to equalize or prevent spikes from power usage and prevent breakers from being tripped from my 3 monitors and flagship PC setup? Do they make UPS's for this?
-
So I have just picked up a used pc the other day because it is going to be a present from my sister to her boyfriend tomorrow. I have tested it by playing a few games on it for around 3-4 hours a day, in the last 2 days, for a total of around 8 hours ish. 2 times it has crashed with the "kernel power 41 (63)" error. I haven't seen a bsod just that it restartet. both times was within the first minutes of me turning on the computer. It has not happend while I have played games on it yet and therefore it seems like (so far) that it doesn't happen at all if it just works for the first 5-10 min of me turning on the pc. So I hoped that could maybe rule out faulty hardware, but I wanted to hear what you guys think and also what you would propose I tried. I would really like to fix it for my sister before she has to give it as a present This is the PC I bought. It is a OEM and not a prebuild. The link is to a danish electronics retailer, but the specs should still be there https://www.elgiganten.dk/product/gaming/gaming-pc/stationar-gaming-computer/acer-nitro-n50-stationar-gaming-computer/185767 only difference is that it looks like the person who had it before added another 8gb ram -
How to get more mileage (wattage) out of my build
ThankGodItsFriday posted a topic in Power Supplies
Hey guys! New guy here, although I've been casually following your vids for about a year now. If you'll examine my specs on my profile, I have an 850w PSU, and through a wattage calculator (on NewEgg), I got an estimate of 700w max for all my hardware. Yet, when benchmarking or using 3D modeling software, I rarely push anywhere above 350w. I don't know if my computer is running as efficiently as it should, or if that's a normal readout. Thought I'd throw this question out to you guys: Is this normal? Also, I'm not sure if I posted in the right place, because I'm new here. Be patient with me LTT! -
If you dim domestic lights using a standard dimmer switch, do you actually consume less electricity?
-
.thumb.jpg.354ce830d93ee2914e30cdcdffdf7eba.jpg)
Has anyone tried renting out their CPU or GPU (not talking crypto-mining) for AI or scientific research? Have you made any returns on it? Did you see an increase in your power bill? Do you know of any legit companies that do it? Thanks. -
Greetings! So I'm halfway through my first ever PC build (everything besides GPU & PSU installed into case so far), and I've stumbled upon this whole 12V2x6 GPU power cable vs 12VHPWR and I have some questions. I'm using this GPU and this PSU, and I noticed the PSU includes a connector for a 12V2x6 cable, but my GPU only has the outdated(?) 12VHPWR connector. Although I did test the GPU outside of the case and everything powers on perfectly fine with normal temperatures with this PSU, from the small bit of research I've done, it seems like there may be a potential risk of cables melting due to PSU overvoltage because of this 12VHPWR connector. I've done my best to understand this potential problem but honestly I'm a little confused, so here I am! So I guess what I'm asking is: should I expect to encounter any problems related to this connector, or am I just being overly cautious? Any information would be greatly appreciated, as I'm not sure if I should try to return the graphics card while I still can and grab a new one that utilizes the updated 12V2x6 connector, or just go ahead and complete my build. Thanks! -
Hello, Every few days, I encounter an issue where my computer doesn't start as expected. To get it up and running, I have to perform a long 10+ second press of the power button, followed by a regular press. The exact cause of this problem eludes me. Here's my typical routine: each night, I properly shut down the computer from the Windows operating system and switch off the power outlet. In the morning, I turn on the power outlet switch and press the computer's power button to initiate the startup. It's worth noting that I don't disconnect the computer's power cord from the outlet. I'm seeking your assistance to understand the root cause of this issue and determine whether it has any adverse effects on the computer's performance or components. Here are the specifications of my computer: CPU: INTEL CORE I9-13900K Motherboard: ASUS ROG STRIX Z790-E WIFI RAM: XPG Lancer DDR5 32GB (2 X 16GB) 6000MHz CL40 Desktop RAM CPU Cooler: Lia Li Galahad 360 AIO ARGB Power Supply: EVGA SuperNova 1000 GT PSU Storage: 1TB NVMe GEN 4 SSD - Kingston KC3000 + 2 extra SATA SSDs Case Fans: Cooler Master SickelFlow ARGB Fans x3 Additionally, I have a mechanical keyboard connected via the rear USB port, which lights up as soon as I turn on the power outlet switch, but the computer itself doesn't respond when I press the power button. I would greatly appreciate your insights and guidance on resolving this issue.
-
Over a year ago I built a PC with the following specs: Motherboard: MSI PRO Z690-A DDR4 PSU: Corsair RM 750x CPU: Intel i9 12900k GPU: Nvidia RTX 3080 RAM: 48GB DDR4 It worked perfectly until a month ago when it abruptly powered off while idle and would not turn back on. There were no lights or signs of activity from the motherboard. I took it to a repair shop and they found the PSU had "blocked" itself as a protective measure due to an electrical issue. I also noticed melted plastic on my power cable, so I replaced both the power cable and extension cord. Everything seemed fine for about a month until yesterday. When attempting to turn on the PC, it failed to power on again. I checked motherboard to see if there is any lights turned on and saw that the Ethernet port showed power. After unplugging and waiting a few hours, it magically turned on. Today, I faced the same issue, but after repeatedly pressing the power button, it eventually started. Is my PSU faulty? Does anyone have ideas on how to further troubleshoot or confirm if the PSU is defective? Or what else could potentially be the culprit here?
.png)
.thumb.jpg.354ce830d93ee2914e30cdcdffdf7eba.jpg)
