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I need help identifying burnt SMD Component (Transistor) with the Marking Code of 26H38 from Gigabyte GTX 1070 Windforce OC 8GB.. If possible, you can provide me any available schematics or replacement for the damaged SMD Component. Other notes: I've searched the SMD Component from a Russian site http://www.chip.tomsk.ru, but i can't find any specific marking code for (26***). meanwhile S-Manuals got me interested (http://www.s-manuals.com/smd/26), I was close, but still.... What is the component's size? SOT-23,SOT-323 or something else?.. Possible Identification: "26***"; 26*3**; or 26H; the H38 - might be a date code.
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I have received a keyboard ( cougar puri ) which has a weird issue of the entire bottom row and the number row not working. The shift key also has an issue; if i tap it, randomly multiple shortcuts pop up. I tried finding a broken trace in the pcb but the shift key shortcut is causing issues. Can anyone help me out with this problem? Thanks
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Heya! I got an free 1060 Zotac by a friend of mine. The 3Gb version though. Sadly there is a broken off component on it. I could manage to find what it was through a video. It is an inductor with 4.7uH, but i dont know which Amps will flow over it. Is there a way to tell how big the inductor has to be or is there a "parts list"? I have a pic attached to show which one it is. Its labeled as L20 Thanks Kurt
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Hi, I am trying to recover some data from a broken hard drive (Western Digital WD10EZEX) and was swapping the suspected broken pcb (REV A 2060-771829-005) out with a new one. I was following this video on how to swap the BIOS chip over to the donor board when removing the BIOS chip I broke of the leg from pin 4 . It seems like it require some rocket surgery to attach the leg back on and there's no easy way to hold it back on. I found out that pin 4 on the BIOS chip in question (Winbond W25Q20BW) is the ground pin. Can I just solder my BIOS chip to the donor board with no ground pin connected? Or is this incredibly naive and wont work?
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Hi all, my Asus PRIME X570-Pro has a damaged PCB trace due to a screw driver damaging it. I have the tools and soldering skills to repair the trace. However I am unsure how the trace looked like before it was damaged. Please see the attached pictures. If someone has this motherboard, would you be so kind to take a clear picture of the traces where my board is damaged? It is in the area between the first PCIE x16 slot and the chipset fan. Thanks for your assistance with this.
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Hey, just curious if there is a drop in replacement for this. I'm not entirely sure if this is a bog standard IR sensor or if there is some specific factor I need to take into consideration for it. Any specsheets for it? Anything specific I should keep in mind when looking for a drop-in replacement?
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The picture below is from Techpowerup's review of the Zotac Trinity RTX 3080. The first thing I noticed is the two empty spots above the GPU where memory chips could have been. If one were to speculate, the two extra chip spaces could be for the 3080ti that is bound to come along eventually. This would also give a 12GB variant the full 384bit memory bus width over the 320 bit bus of the 3080. I don't think any of this is surprising or new information, but actually seeing those two empty spaces bugs me.
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Hi Guys, Is anyone aware of a database of which 3090s will use what PCB type? i ask because I would like to grab a waterblock day 1. EKWB has a block but only for Reference PCBs. Now the question is, what is a reference PCB? This card has a PCB that extends roughly 1-2cm above the PCIE bracket - is this non-reference? compatible with EKWB? https://www.overclockers.co.uk/asus-geforce-rtx-3090-rog-strix-gaming-oc-24gb-gddr6x-pci-express-graphics-card-gx-44j-as.html This GPU has a PCB that aligns to the PCIE bracket. Is this Reference? compatible with EKWB? https://www.overclockers.co.uk/msi-geforce-rtx-3090-ventus-3x-oc-24gb-gddr6x-pci-express-graphics-card-gx-36a-ms.html And finally, we have the Founders 3090, which appears to have the 1-2cm extension Curious what you guys are thinking! https://www.overclockers.co.uk/pc-components/graphics-cards/nvidia/geforce-rtx-3090 check out the variants here. Also curious if the ASUS cards with their extra port will be compatible with majority of blocks. I'm thinking not... but then again, its just an upward extension. Maybe? I love new tech.
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I've got this used GPU which has some white stains on its back. What are those? I've searched the web and from what I understand they could be flux residues but I'm not sure. Any other idea? Looks like this GPU was removed from a working PC and it was still functioning when it was removed. Then it sat in its own box for maybe a couple of years and now it was given to me. I've not tested it yet and I'm not sure if it's safe to power it on before removing that white stuff. Anybody knows what that is? Is it harmful? Should I worry? Can I leave it there or should I clean it even if the GPU works? I don't know when those white marks appeared, if the card was sold like that or if they appeared later during daily usage. Thank you all for any help.
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So the case I wan't for my custom mechanical says it supports Phantom PCB & Plate but the pcb I wan't is https://myfacebook-proxy.appspot.com/kprepublic.com/products/hot-swappable-xd87-hs-xd87-custom-mechanical-keyboard-kit80-supports-tkg-tools-support-underglow-rgb-pcb-programmed-gh80-kle?variant=14736539025452 I know that some pcb have their switch layout a bit lower or higher so are the two pcb's interchangeable? https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=536
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Hello I have decided that instead of buying this USB C header expansion card, https://www.scorptec.com.au/product/Controllers/USB-&-Firewire/76403-SST-ECU02?gclid=Cj0KCQjw0Mb3BRCaARIsAPSNGpUG46HiQzUE1l8eOH4QryudtLSEiH9_gcw1gSvZ25R-7dP8INCYaIwaAqQTEALw_wcB I will make it myself. I know I will need to get a PCB printed and add components. I plan to make an exact clone of the linked card. Here are my questions. Is this possible? What is the best way to get a PCB printed? Where can I source the components? Will I need to write any software (drivers ect.) for it to work? How much will it cost? Thanks, Del
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So I was about to upgrade my home server setup with 3 new 10TB Seagate Ironwolf Pro (ST10000NE0008). I neatly installed them into the disk bay along with some cable management. I then remembered I had to write down the serial numbers of each disk... ironically in case of warranty claim or data rescue. So I lifted up the disk bay and I guess the cable management was a bit too tight so the sata cable ripped out the port on the disk. Too bad the warranty doesn’t cover stupidity. I have however reached out to Seagate to see if they can do some goodwill or if they can at least sell me a pcb controller. If anyone has a broken Ironwolf 10TB but a functioning pcb please let me know if it is for sale! Also, if you know a bit more about these disks, advice on compatible pcb controllers would be much appreciated!
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Hey everyone, I just removed the back plate of my graphics card for some late spring cleaning and discovered an oily substance on the PCB. I guess it came out of the thermal pads judging by the pattern. Any idea what this might indicate?
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- pcb
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Hi all, I am attempting to repair my first GPU that I have purchased on ebay(ASUS GeForce GTX 1060 6GB Expedition Boost). I know its not the best idea because it might as well be a dead GPU, but i have gone for it anyways The GPU warms up with not display detection. I have checked the ram voltage and GPU voltage and it all seem to be fine with VRM running at 1.4V and GPU mosfets at 0.7V. Hot Component Later, I realised that my transistor is warm but then this component(arrowed above) running at 5V is really hot instantly which makes me worry, so I have de-soldered it and I am looking to identify it for a replacement. Any Ideas?
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Air Cooling the back of your Motherboard?! So i was wondering if any of you have had any first hand experience with air cooling the back of the PCB on your motherboards with a small to medium sized fan like an 80mm for example or if you have read/seen any tests on the topic? Does it have any positive effects on your CPU/VRMs and such in terms of overall temperatures? And which direction should the airflow of the fan be pointed at? Blowing air onto the surface or "sucking" the hot air away from the PCB? Of course the design and airflow capability of your case especially in the region behind the MB does have a big impact on the results i suppose, and it will be very different for everybody. Does this concept make sense at all or is it a total waste of time? So let me hear your thoughts on the topic! cheers
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Recently I was looking at a mobo ROG strix X570 E gaming on ASUS offical website . In that ASUS CPU support , there was a column named "validated since PCB" and in this column all entries were "ALL" can anyone help me what was meaning of these entries of vadiated since PCB column!! Here is the link -https://www.asus.com/in/Motherboards/ROG-Strix-X570-E-Gaming/HelpDesk_CPU/
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Hi everyone! A couple of days ago i've purchased this sentey case very cheap because it's fan controller doesn't work. I've opened it to see what was happening and i they tried to solder replace pieces in the fan controller pcb (and they've done a really bad job). So i fix that BUT the guy also cut off the cables and now i've got the PCB alone without the cables to the PSU, Fans, etc. So i have the board connected to the potentiometer and i need to know where to solder and connect the rest of the cables
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Basicly the title, My primary drive PCB cought on fire and I would like to try to recover the data for as cheap as possible. I was informed by reddit that simply replacing the PCB with one from an identical drive won't work. Any ideas on how I can recover my data or am I better off just starting over. HDD specs: Seagate Barracuda 160gb 7200.12 (st3160318AS)
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Hi! Recently my Gigabyte GTX 1070 G1 Gaming (rev1.0) has had a mosfet catch fire I want to repair the board, as I will send it to a store specialized in this kind of repair, but I need the model of the mosfet that blew off, if someone is kind enough to provide me with a high-res photo of the interested area (pictured in the attachments) I would be so happy! I tried asking on reddit, but got no luck, I opened a ticket to gigabyte, but they couldn't help as the card is out of warranty. Thank you for reading
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Hi. I need to disconnect my GPU fan due to it causing trouble. However, the fan I need to disconnect (Leftmost in the image), seems to be directly connected to the all the fans' PCB connector. How do I disconnect that one fan and leave the other 2 running?
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- graphics card
- gpu
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Hey all, I’ve found a user of r/hardwareswap on reddit selling a used Asus Dual GTX 1060 6gb and in the description it states that the top left of the pcb near the 6-pin connector has a small chip. [PIC](https://imgur.com/gallery/TOB7ZZE). The top and bottom card have the chip and the middle one doesn’t so you guys can compare and see the issue. I’ve asked him about any issues in performance and he says he’s tested it and works fine, so I wanted to ask y’all who probably know more than I do on this. Thanks
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I have a hard drive which was having a burnt pcb. I want to switch the BIOS Chip program from original to donar PCB BIOS chip Is it possible???????
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Hi guys, I just bought a new graphics card from a guy. He said it was in perfect condition. When I went home to install it i noticed these three marks on the backside where one was larger and the components seems to have something black, almost hairy, around then.(See pictures) is this burnt? Any safe way I can test or should I just contact the guy and ask for refund? It is a Asus GTX 1070 8GB Dual OC Thanks for help! I'm really nervous! /Erik
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- graphics
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Has anyone used conformal coatings for their motherboard? I've seen it used many times in YouTube videos as a protective layer between the motherboard and paint itself. I'd prefer it over Plasti-Dip due to it not being a rubber coating and therefore not as thermally insulating. I found a white conformal coating I'd like to try once I get my PC parts in the coming months. I want to go full white on the build to make it more effective to do a snowblind mod. The acrylic conformal coating I found is a bit expensive, but I can see it being worth it if effective. It's the Miller-Stephenson MS-475C conformal coating. I've read all the technical data sheets on it and it seems a winner to me, including thermal performance, working at a range of -55°C to 110°C. What do y'all think? https://www.neobits.com/honeywell_ms_475c_stephenson_acrylic_conformal_p8381729.html?atc=gbp&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkvTKu4CT5QIVBZJbCh1PsgyXEAkYASABEgI0UfD_BwE Peace, LTG
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Why are PCBs different Color like, blue,red,green. Older Tech was generally brown or yellow and apple mainly use black pcbs. Does it have an function or is just for looks?