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This is a guide for anyone new to PC building who would like to know what FPS numbers mean, why they are important, and what to look for when considering your first gaming PC. So what is FPS? Why does it matter? Why do people choose PC over consoles for more FPS and more settings? What does it all mean? Well, FPS - Frames Per Second. In reality, what video is - is a stream of still images sent to your screen very quickly. When you watch TV, what you are seeing is actually 26-27 different STILL images per second that depicts motion. Consoles like Xbox and PlayStation are generally limited to 60 FPS maximum, and while this is fine, you can have a more premium gaming experience on PC with higher FPS and more settings options and customization available. Plus, you don't have to pay for PlayStation/Xbox Live membership for online gaming which is a pretty nice bonus. Most games on PC these days have the ability to run what is called a "Benchmark" - a test that evaluates the overall performance of a given game. And even if a benchmark is unavailable, there is ALWAYS a way to display your current FPS while playing, and you can assess your performance and tweak your settings that way. Keep in mind that some games are more demanding than others. A good way to judge what hardware is right for you is to share what games you play most. Plenty of testing is done on PC Hardware when it comes to market and what hardware you need for what games you play with your desired level of performance should be easy to determine - just ask any PC enthusiast and they should be able to tell you. PC games come with settings presets that set all graphical settings to a predetermined level for a given overall experience. "High" Graphics settings presets are considered the standard for PC enthusiasts as it gives you high visual fidelity and detail without needlessly throwing away performance. "Very High"/"Ultra" settings are nice but usually cost a massive amount of performance for only small differences in overall image quality. So what numbers are important, what should you look for, and what are ideal numbers? Well, the two most important metrics in gaming performance are "Average FPS" and "1% Lows". Average FPS is the average framerate of the given test, while 1% lows show when the PC struggles with a particularly demanding area or images. The range of different Average FPS experiences is summarized below: 20 FPS or Less: Unplayable - The game will be so studdery, slow, and unresponsive that you will genuinely not enjoy the experience, and will probably stop playing. 30 FPS: Not Very Fun, but Tolerable for Some. This will feel sluggish and fairly slow, especially when demanding areas drop your FPS under 30, but it can be played if absolutely necessary. 45 FPS: Playable - While not very responsive or smooth, it can be somewhat enjoyable, especially if dips in performance from demanding areas are occasional and don't drop the FPS into the 30's very often. 60 FPS: The Basic Standard - at 60 FPS your game will appear visually smooth but you may notice the responsiveness between your inputs and what happens on screen is not quite as nice as you would like. When demanding areas drop the FPS into the low 50's and high 40's, these moments are certainly not ideal either. 75 FPS - The Bang For Buck - At 75 FPS, a Game not only appears very visually smooth, but the responsiveness is also quite nice and fast enough to satisfy most gamers. Even demanding areas that drop FPS into the low 60's don't really ruin the experience and this is exactly why entry-level budget gaming PC monitors are 75-Hz rated (Hz is basically the max FPS the screen itself can display, also known as "refresh rate"). 90 FPS: The Enthusiast Standard - PC enthusiasts usually game on PC for the advanced performance over a console. 90 FPS and beyond is where this difference truly shines. At 90 FPS, your game will feel incredibly responsive, basically instantaneous, and will remain very responsive even in demanding areas that drop FPS into the 70's. 100 FPS - The Premium/Ideal Target. 100 FPS Average may not seem a lot different than 90 FPS, but the important difference is that even the most demanding areas of a game with the biggest drops will likely keep the FPS above 75. This means that the game will remain responsive and the experience will remain premium and smooth pretty much no matter what happens. I recommend 90-100 FPS Average for most people. 120 FPS: The Enthusiast High-End/Flagship Experience - My personal favorite way to play. Why? Well, while I will admit I don't really see any gains in the gaming experience above about 100 FPS; if you game runs at 120 average, then your lows will probably remain above 90 FPS meaning your entire gaming experience is as premium as it gets - So fast and responsive that you truly feel no desire to go any further even in the most demanding areas of a game. 144 FPS and Beyond: Overkill - Many Gaming Monitors are rated at 144 Hz and they are affordable for most and the perfect choice for most gamers. However, there is no need for your game to actually run this fast. Linus himself has shown in several tests that even professional E-Sports gamers - people who get paid an actual salary to play video games - have no performance improvement when going beyond 144 Hz/FPS. Some people may claim they feel a difference and they are welcome to their opinion, but there is no way for them to prove that claim, and someone new to PC gaming certainly doesn't need to be worrying about such things. So there you go, now you can decide what level of performance you want your Gaming PC to achieve, and you can now use this knowledge to ask someone experienced with PCs (we are all happy to help you here at LTT Forums) to recommend a given pre-built PC or recommend hardware for you to build your own. This is the very first decision towards getting your first gaming PC. Welcome aboard!
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so i am looking to buy a new gpu im not very educated on them so i don't know what im looking for my budget is around 600-750 euro's what gpu will be a good fit with my cpu?
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Country: United States After many days and many hours of research, this is the build I came up with. I went with the Ryzen 7 7800x3d because supposedly from many people it's simply the best cpu on the market. Some might say the ryzen 9 but apparently something about it is better. I was going to do the 4090 for graphics card but then found that the 7900xtx is also very good and performs nearly as good as the 4090 but half the price. Also the 5000 series will release later this year and I will likely upgrade to that when the time comes. So the 7900xtx will suit me for that time period. I've looked at many builds with this case and they are absolutely stunning. Also the cooler, ssd, and ram are apparently pretty good. I went with 32g cus that's whats running really well for people rn. I have some questions, 1. When the 5000 series comes out will I be able to upgrade to it with this build or would I need to upgrade also the cpu and or motherboard? 2. Should I buy some reverse fans because I am worried that I won't have enough cooling in this build. 3. Also I've looked into the easy stuff on building a pc like installing ram and the cpu but I am clueless on everything else on where things should go and what to put where. I know generally where things go like the aio but I'm worried about where I put the cables for cable management and if I break anything I'll be devastated and won't know what to do 4. Would this build last me? I forgot but here's the link https://pcpartpicker.com/list/jQm9ZJ
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PC is vibrating too much the the 6 fans are running even at lowest rpm from remote, bottom and side fans(4) are intake and top(2) are exhaust. when i turn off those fans the vibration are gone, how to i fix/remove vibration from my PC. case used is InPlay Seaview S100 and the fans are Inplay Seaview X3. i change my case to this one and purchase those fans because my old case have really no airflow. please someone help me if this vibration are normal for this kind of Case and Number of fans or not, im worrying too much. Thanks in advance ฅ^•ﻌ•^ฅ
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Budget (including currency): 2000 USD (yes I'm slightly over budget for this pick, but that's acceptable) Country: Hongkong/China & US (I can get the parts from the US, I don't think there'll be an issue with shipping or acquiring them to HK) Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: See for more detailed explantion. Mostly web surfing, moderate gaming, most of the performence requirements will be used to play around ML and generative AIs. Other detail: (planned) CPU: Intel Core i7-13700K 3.4 GHz 16-Core Processor ($343.99 @ Amazon) [choice between Ryzen 7 7800X3D and 13700K. I want the iGPU for backup and felt I don't need comparable or better gaming performence. I don't think I need the extra cores from the 14700s or i9/Ryzen 9. LGA 1700 is sad but if I needed an upgrade I'm willing to get a new motherboard. It's probably overkill anyway] CPU Cooler: Deepcool AK620 ZERO DARK 68.99 CFM CPU Cooler ($55.99 @ Amazon) [No specific reason, just believed AIO isn't as needed or CPU cooling is that necessary anyway.] Motherboard: Asus TUF GAMING B760M-PLUS WIFI II Micro ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($199.99 @ ASUS) [This is a Mobo I can get locally. No real reason other than a B-chipset, microATX, and a pricy brand. All of which is just passion choices] Memory: Corsair Vengeance 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-7000 CL40 Memory ($149.99 @ Corsair) [I decided to lower the RAM size for a high clock speed, probably got sold snake oil] Storage: Western Digital Black SN850X 2 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($169.99 @ Best Buy) [No particular reason] Storage: Seagate BarraCuda 4 TB 3.5" 5400 RPM Internal Hard Drive (Purchased For $0.00) Video Card: MSI VENTUS 3X OC GeForce RTX 4070 Ti SUPER 16 GB Video Card ($882.93 @ Amazon) [4070 Ti Super is a must, brand and model, I'm told, is not as important] Case: Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case ($104.99 @ Corsair) [Avalible and recommended by pcpartpicker] Power Supply: Corsair RM850e (2023) 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply [I thought 850W should suffice, matching brand and form factor] https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Tp2JWt Almost everything except for the 4070 Ti Super and micro ATX for a mid-tower (well those two are arguble too) is open to suggestions.
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Hey! I am looking forward to upgrading my pc a bit in the next few months. First a want to upgrade my CPU. I have had it for quite a while now and in certain situations I can feel its age. Later I am looking forward to upgrading my GPU to something like a 4070. So what CPU would you suggest buying right now? (not too expensive) Ryzen 5 3600 Gigabyte RTX 2070 Super Gaming OC MSI MPG B550 Gaming Plus Corsair RM850 As far as I know my mainboard shouldn't be a problem right? A BIOS Update should make it possible to pair it with newer ryzen CPUs (AM4)? Thanks!
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Budget (including currency): $1400 is the HIGHEST he wants to spend, but i want to help him spend less Country: usa Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Fortnite VERY competitively, thats basically the only thing, he wants about 400+fps on 1080p high Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): this is what i was thinking, hes fairly convinced that more money=more performance, so trying to save his wallet haha, this is what i came up with PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/QgjFn6 CPU: Intel Core i5-12600KF 3.7 GHz 10-Core Processor ($154.65 @ Amazon) CPU Cooler: Thermalright Frozen Notte ARGB 72.37 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($50.90 @ Amazon) Motherboard: ASRock Z690 Pro RS ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Amazon) Memory: TEAMGROUP T-Force Delta RGB 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 CL18 Memory ($47.99 @ Amazon) Storage: Crucial P3 Plus 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($74.99 @ B&H) Video Card: Asus DUAL OC GeForce RTX 4060 8 GB Video Card ($309.00 @ B&H) Case: Fractal Design Pop Air RGB ATX Mid Tower Case ($84.99 @ Amazon) Power Supply: MSI MAG A850GL PCIE5 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.00 @ MSI) Case Fan: Thermalright TL-C12C-S 66.17 CFM 120 mm Fan ($6.59 @ Amazon) Total: $938.10 Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-04-12 21:42 EDT-0400
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Hello everyone After more than 6 years of buying my PC i decided to upgrade the storage. Currently i have 1TB hdd which has two partitions, C which contains the windows files and some applications, and G which has the rest of the data. I ordered 1TB of m.2 ssd and i was thinking of installing fresh windows on the ssd. So, i wanted to remove the hdd and insert the ssd to install the fresh windows on the ssd. Then, add the hdd back. Now the question is what happens to the data that was on the hdd, does it remain there and shows when i connect the hdd back, or is it removed? If it remains there, what happens to the partitions (C) which has the old windows files if the new ssd has the new C partition with the new windows?
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Hey, I’m trying to boost our signal from the main house to another building. Currently the main house has the BT smart hub router and I have a TPlink extender in the other building but the wifi signal is terrible because its too far away. So I plan to run a cat6 ethernet cable round the house and into the 2nd building. But do I need to connect the cable into another router or just a extender. My current extender only has 1 ethernet port which isn’t any good as I would like to be able to be hard wired into my pc as well so I need some suggestions as to what to buy so I can do that, thank you
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As the title suggests I have been getting INSANE lag spikes, like I'll be playing on epic settings for like 10 secs then I'm frozen for anywhere from 0.5 secs to like 10 secs. It's driving me insaaaaaane Anyways here are my specs GTX 1070. Gpu I5-6500. CPU 2x8gb. Ram H110m.*I think* Motherboard Cx500 PSU These are all of the troubleshooting steps I've done: Downgraded from win 11 to win 10 Updated all drivers CPU, GPU, Motherboard etc. Put fortnite on low settings Also I get stable fps on these games Subnautica on max graphics Minecraft with intense shader mods And I think that's it. Please help me
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Before you game, work, or watch on your new PC, there are some important things to ensure your CPU, GPU, RAM, and more are all working as intended. Good news: It’s easy when you know how! Buy a Surge Protector: https://geni.us/RWleE Buy a KINGTOP Headphone Mic Splitter: https://geni.us/ITZfJN Purchases made through some store links may provide some compensation to Linus Media Group.
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Hello, I just "upgraded" my PC to I think better specs but I'm not sure that's why I want to ask here (I generally don't know too much about building a Computer). I had previously built 2 x 8GB (3200 MHz) in my PC. But now I took "old" parts from my other PC and now I've installed additionally 1 x 16 (3000 MHz) and 1 x 8 (1200 MHz). The question now is, is it optimal? I now have 40 GB of RAM but I'm unsure how many MHz they are running. The task manager tells me it is 2133 MHz but I don't know if that's true or if that is even good. Thanks for the help already!
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A LIL BACKSTORY - I've been wanting to get into 3D design, video editing, and other media design programs as well lately. I already have good RAM (G.Skill Trident Z Neo 32 GB (2 x 16 GB)), and I thought why not get another set and fill all 4 slots and not have to worry about not having enough memory. I understand I don't necessarily need it but I'm in a position where I can spend the money on more RAM. THE MAIN thing is when I installed the RAM, my PC booted up fine and all was well until some programs would randomly shut down all in unison, and that would happen every few minutes or so. Then my PC would just crash and I'd get the blue screen of death. Then I'd turn the PC back on and it would boot and run Windows fine then 5-10 minutes later it would just crash again and I'd be rewarded with another blue screen. The same thing kept happening till I turned my PC off, unplugged it, and took out the RAM I had just installed and now my PC has been fine ever since. The thing is though, I want that RAM in my PC. I haven't tried to install it again, so I wanted to come here for some advice/help. PC parts list here -> https://pcpartpicker.com/list/HfLKQP I thought it could be something to do with the PSU? (not sure if this is necessary information but I've got the PC internals, mouse, keyboard, and 2 monitors plugged in. - just in case it has something to do with PSU that's what's plugged in.)
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Wanting a new monitor! Some specifications would be - 32" or more curved refresh rate above 144hz max price around ~$750 AUD high quality/definition Would be using it for - gaming Watching shows and movies 3D design Adobe design programs Some of that info may be useless idk. Would greatly appreciate the help, been looking for some time now and just don't want to make a bad purchase. Thanks heaps!
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Hey, So I'm in a bit of a conundrum right now, to make a long story short I built my dream PC last year and now I'm facing an unexpected big move across the Atlantic a month from now. I really don't want to sell the expensive parts only to re-build after my move, and I don't really trust that nothing would break if I just ship the whole system to my new address, so my next best option is to take as much as possible out of the case, grab an extra suitcase and transport individual parts in the original boxes on the flight, and buy a new case to rebuild the system at my new location. My questions are, first of all, which parts would be safe to keep on the motherboard during transport? Right now I'm thinking to disconnect the GPU, RAM and CPU cooler, but keep CPU and M.2 drives installed. Do you think this would be safe assuming the motherboard is packed fairly tightly in it's original box? Secondly, just in general, has anyone else transported a PC like this in the past? Any particular problems or gripes you've ran into in that case? I realize this is a bit of a weird question with probably no clear answer, I'm just trying to gauge the risks to minimize potential damage to my parts as much as possible while also packing things as compact as possible. Any help would be much appreciated! For reference, this is the full build specs in question: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/QvwTRK
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Budget (max 1100euros) Country:Lithuania Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: gaming and some video editing,but mostly gaming and the games would be like gta 5 ,assetto corsa,cs2 and many more. Other details here i'm going to include a pc that i want to build,but i'm not sure about the parts and maybe i could decrease the price somehow so it would fit my budget(1100euros Max). I hope someone will guide me to picking the right parts with the right specs and a good price tag.I also would like to play on 165hz/240hz monitor from aoc. thanks:) https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ht4LxH
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Greetings, I recently have purchased a Steelseries stratos+ controler due to it having USB c for charging. I wanted to use it with my PC by utilizing a Bluetooth dongle. However while waiting for the delivery I found out that it doesn't support Wireless connection with Windows. Is there any walk-around to be able to use it wirelessly with Windows?
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hi, i have hp motherboard 843b .i am interested to upgrade my ram from 8gb 2666mz to 2x 8gb 3200mz. so i want to ask you thats makes any sense and also if this is compatible with my motherboard? i woudnt buy a bad ram thank u in advance for help
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A few weeks ago my computer has started to randomly crash. with the error codes I got it was either faulty RAM or a driver issue. I removed some of my RAM and it worked for a little while but now my computer is acting up again. I did several clean wipes and even booted from my thumb-drive to reinstall windows 10 times. I used driver booster to reinstall all drivers and nothing seems to work. Just today while working I got the error "IRQL not less or equal" but Ive also gotten "System thread exception not handled" and "Store exception Error", honestly I can go on. Right now I have three sticks of RAM instead of four and I am thinking of just putting the one I took out back in as it made no affect. I am at my wits end. Geek Squad gave me a quote of over $200 due to "Licensing" which sounds like BS but honestly I might have to give in as the crashes I feel are becoming to frequent. I have discord if anyone has advice as I dont check forums often. discord - neondroid
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Installed new set of RAM (G.Skill Trident Z Neo 3600 Cl16 2x16Gb) and have enabled XMP profile on my mobo/bios, then checked task manager and its still running at 2133. Not sure if task manager is a valid way to check speed and if I'm even setting my Ram speeds correctly, but id like to use it to its specified capabilities. RAM is installed in slots 1 and 3, not sure if that's any use. Lemme know if I'm being dumb or if you've got any fix to this please, in need of assistance! Thanks heaps! My pc parts list below - https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/g3FYBL
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Good day LTT! I just started to build my 1st pc but something is wrong. I have no output but fans are running lights are on and I made sure the ram, gpu, psu cables and cpu are slotted and inserted properly. I need heeelp. Any ideas why?
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Hi, I am not sure if this is where I am supposed to post this, if I am not supposed to post this here I apologize in advance. So, my pc was crashing after I accidentally installed ai suite 3 ( I did not know what it was after realizing what it does I immediately uninstalled it ) after that I started experiencing crashes and I tried to reset the bios manually by removing the cell in the motherboard. after a long chain of conversation with the company we found out something was wrong with the cpu ( i9-14900k ) they made me underclock the cpu by going to bios>AI tweaker>Performance core ratio and changing that to by core usage> and changing the values to 55, Doing this somehow fixed all my issues. I am just wondering is this a common issue with the i9-14900k and how does this affect me, will I not be able to get the full output of the cpu? Thank you in advance for any info you can give me. I apologize again just in case this is not the appropriate place to post this and ask questions.
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Okay so my computer sometimes boots up slower so I usually hit the power button and go do something for say..20 minutes and come back to sign in. Today I had family over and I turned my pc on, it worked fine this morning, but I turned it on, saw the case led fans turn blue and spin like they normally do. I don't know how long I was gone for, maybe over 30 minutes to an hour? I came back, only thing that seemed to be glowing was the ram sticks. I hit the power button again, thinking it booted up wrong but no it turned on like it normally does and showed me the sign in screen right away. sign in and I'm even using it now to type, seems to be running okay. I'm just paranoid because I had an issue this last December where I made this Pc and not all the screws were loose. So I went to turn it on one day and it wasn't booting right. Had red light on one of the indicators on the MB (MSI Max Wifi b550 Tomahawk) which I believe was GPU? It's been a while. But anyways, after trial and error I got it to a tech shop nearby who looked at it and said the screws and cords were loose, so it wasn't powering it entirely. He got it fixed up and it's been fine since, although for some reason I had to reinstall Windows when I took it back home. Not too sure why since he said it booted up fine in the shop so I assumed maybe the boot up just messed with my OS. Anyways, should I have nothing to worry about? This are still displaying fine as of now and it's been about hour and a half since then and I'm still using it. I'm going to run another shut down/start up after I get off and just watch. I'm really not sure if it's just a sleep mode or anything since I'll leave it running on the log in screen and it'll be the same (no lights off or anything) when I come back to it. I don't know, am I just paranoid?