Search the Community

Hi all, here we go again -amd 5900x -asus crosshair viii / WiFi (all was done with latest bios installed first - 5702 or something. Late march 2024) / ekwb waterblock made for the board, covers the vrms and cpu (only mounted with 4 screws but not fun to remove) -4x Corsair vengeance 18@3600, 16gb each (QVL ok) SIDE NOTE do have 4x 16@3200 16g sticks, nighthawks by teamforce. DOCP didn’t work / non qvl so swapped em out quite a while ago - no problems, just saying I have a spare set -asus 4090 w custom waterblock -xfx 6700 xt w custom block -pci 1x to 16x riser, usb 3.0 (unused ATM but plugged in) -quadro 4000 rtx -more radiators than necessary -all the fans are thermaltake something’s, high end/expensive. No RGB, either 2500/3000 rpm peak 120s and 140s -thermal take dc5 pump with 500ml res. -another dc5 pump connected to the drain ports on the top radiator (420mmx60mm) with a seperate 1L res. It’s there for redundancy and to help the primary pump cycle the water, yes that many radiators…. Still have one 140mmx60mm on “standby” waiting to be installed MORE IMPORTANTLY -seasonic 1000w bronze blah blah, ONLY powering the motherboard, cpu (aux cpu too) and 4090. Only powering the molex for the TT pump. I mean face it, I’ll use the best brand to power the most crucial stuff -“gamemax” 1050w bronze powering 8x sata drives, the fan hub, 6700/quadro and molex to pump 2 (“jump started” with lol, one of my many mobo this pin to that pin things) this guys outside the case -DO have a spare psu, seasonic 1500w PLATINUM, Corsair. Had it in a while ago then did math and figured out at 80% peak efficiency (assuming) I had ~1200w to work with. Say the least when the pc was under 100% load it couldn’t sustain and my system would just shut off. Again doing math, 230w max TDP on cpu, 75w per pci, 8x SSDs, fan hub, toss in the video cards…. Yeah. Should mention it’s an EU version (I guess it’s better than US? I dono, wasn’t intentional), have a EU to US 120v power cable. It’s gotta be 12/10 gauge per wire, pos/neg/ground. Easy to find in my cache of pc stuff cause duh. It’s super thick +since I noticed issues with power that’s when I took it out an opted for 2x PSU’s rather than one (thing was large too, had to pull out the aforementioned 140mm radiator to make room) -thermal take TT71 view full/E-atx case, it’s all been taken apart to a skeleton since I did the psu swap. Yes I did swap the Corsair power lines for the appropriate PSUs, pain in the butt -both PSUs are plugged directly into the outlet and each outlets are on seperate breakers (haven’t tripped one… yet) -2x Samsung 980 1tb nvmes, 2023 manufacture date, made in Korea or Vietnam… forget. HAD 2021 variants which thanks to Samsung failed to release a “notification” to update the firmware immediately or your drives will die. Just saying, anyone reading this, yeah… -GPU’s are installed top to bottom in order mentioned (think that’s all, at least what’s relevant?) PROBLEM: Q-code reads 00, can’t do bios flashback via usb cause I noticed they don’t light up on POST. See “what I’ve tried” for more details. WHAT MAY HAVE HAPPENED: day prior I was fiddling with overclocking the CPU. Using HWinfo for duh, cinebench r23/aida64(prime95?)/nicehash(only cpu was enabled) for monitoring and writing down voltages per core, core “order” preferred. Basicallly I was handwriting cinebench scores (5 min stress multi and single), hashrates etc along with the values as reported by HWinfo, voltages/temps and so on. I had NOT been working with the PBO scalar at this point. ALL bios were stock aside from a few minor areas unrelated, SVM and 4g decoding, raid, disabled EDC (whatever for power efficiency/auto downstepping, ERP?) anyway I had gotten to 46x multiplier in main menu, CCX 0/1 to 46 also. Power settings were set to “extreme”, 120% on cpu, 140 (I think) on DRAM. most settings were either enabled or left to auto. If I recall correctly I eventually just went to auto to eliminate variables by the time I got to stressing it I wrote down values, my notes are in the office, I noticed at 4600mhz (cores aren’t set to go faster or slower) the mobo wouldn’t supply more than 1.300v per core, 12 total. At this point cinevench would crash and Nicehash would “blow up” the pc (immediate shut down) so I toned it all down to 43x, ccd0/1 too. Figured I’d be on the safe side doing so, plus I got the best results in my notes. ~20100 on cinebench, .00890 hashrate (again may be inaccurate, notes upstairs) tpu I and II set to “none”, uh that application preference thing to “none” (It has options for Geekbench, cinebench and 2 others) BLCLK at 100.00 from there I had her mining all night, after a few hours I enabled the 3 GPUs. Woke up the next day and yep, all was still good and going. ~1.204v avg on all cores So now I’m like… hmm. Let’s try to increase the voltage one step at a time and keep the everything the same. I have a saved bios profile on a USB of the most stable setup so why not? I forget what the positive increments were but from none I hit “+” and it… offset, increased? Idk whatever it did, by like .00264 something. The minimal amount Saved, restart, windows was stable. Though I did notice the monitor would go blank on login (auto login via registry). The gpu would kick in (after the “dos” spinny image) and I’d see my username which has a profile pic of my dog, blank, dog again pc is thinking, blank, then desktop as usual. Mind you the “blank” was just black screen and basically a quick flicker i don’t recall checking HwInfo, my assumption was my clock speed was too “low” for the additional voltage. I naturally figured no point in stressing it or checking restsrt, bumped up one more (now we’re at + twice, so two “minimal” increments) and went to 4600 to compensate. I mean, 4600 worked fine aside from crashing due to the 1.3v “lock” I noticed the day before. Hence why I stepped it up a tad one last time bam, BSOD loop. Whoopsie. now this part I’m unsure as I don’t remember completely what I did. Back to bios, removed the voltage offset, went down to 43x all over, and I’m pretty sure I adjusted the VRM/delivery from extreme to optimal, put cpu voltage to 120% peak, down’ed the ram to 110%. Basically my mindset was I’m getting too excited and I had best stay in a safe bubble. save/restart ahhhhh darn, q-code of 00 and nothing. Literally no POST, waited watching the q-code LED and no change. Fudge! WHAT HAVE I TRIED? -first logical step, hit the clear CMOS button on the IO panel, the green one. It’s worked in the past just not with a 00 code. No dice -thought for a second, looked at the manual. Hm, there’s a button on the motherboard for safe boot. Ok. Squeezed my finger in there blind and felt it (the little button isn’t by any others by far) and pushed it. Nope -flipped off the power, waited maybe ten seconds then unplugged the PSUs. Waited idk ten minutes, reversed the above and hit the glowing start button. Nothing. Tried safe boot again, nothing -snap, now I’m in a pickle. Removed power sources as noted above and flipped the switch on the motherboard for SLOW MODE. Yes only switch on the bottom, mentioned in manual, yada yada. Power applied again, still 00. Well… let’s reflash the bios via the button and a usb -flipped safe boot off, (done this before) and used a laptop (hp 8760w/32g/3x SSDs/m.2 as boot/datacenter 2022) to setup a usb. First used a 128g drive, went to format and duh, ntfs or exFAT. Nah that won’t work, plus it don’t have a blinky light as an IO indicator. Grabbed my BIOS drive with the saved profiles, shoved the same bios I have on it, root directory and renamed to C8HW.cap (whatever it should be). No go. It’s only a 512mb but I do know the pc is finicky about it and spits a Qcode if I load a profile/save/reboot and leave it plugged in. Eh maybe it’s just the stick, no biggie -busted out my ziplock of flash drives. All varying capacities and brands. One drive was too large (according to manual it says = or less than 2gb) so I just did diskpart and cleaned the volume. Then cleaned the drive. Made a 1g partition at the “start” of the drive and fat32’d it. No dice again 1gb drive, another 512, and a 256mb (haha yep), all done same as above minus the partitioning. Just clean/format fat32 and “whatever”.cap. Nothing read a thread that said sometimes using windows to unzip a file can corrupt a bios file. Winrar is a better option, ok Last attempt, 512mb stick I usually use, same process just with winrar. Nothing Manual says once the button goes blue it’ll blink and stay blue, could take some time but once it isn’t blue anymore it’s done. So pc is still sitting there with the blue light on and stuck in the obvious port labeled for flashback (just being descriptive for sake of a response asking if I used the correct usb port) so far, nothing -prior to the last/current usb, swapped cpu power from the seasonic to the “gamemax”. No go. Figure that was a pointless route since just below the power headers has a red light that stays illuminated if, duh, no power (provided the mobo has power). Power delivery is fine -also removed cpu-opt fan from header. Removed HUB from cpu header and plugged in a spare fan. Still 00 -oh and left the pc with no power for at least 24 hours. Both PSUs off and unplugged. Nothing - even without the “gamemax” PSU connected CONCLUSION? 00 indicates a cpu issue or a motherboard issue. Taking a wild guess tinkering with the bios, trying to reflash it entirely messed it up. Without a UART flasher I can’t do it manually also I might have messed the cpu up. Not sure if it’s plausible cause a MOBO of this… nature has failsafes built in to prevent “blowing it up”. I’ve had similar issues in the past and instead of panicking I just let it sit without power, then all would be fine as mentioned the usb sticks never blink even without hitting the reflash button. So if the mobo don’t detect a cpu, it stops any POST attempts thereafter. Hence, no usb activity. Sure my crap via usb gets power, gaming mat and junk. Otherwise nothing i dont have a spare cpu laying around to try out. Kinda wish I did! Prior to all this mess I was playing Horizon Forbidden West CE on my G9 with full settings on. Blah! so now ya know the story. What to try first? Only thing I haven’t done is take out all the GPUs or swap the ram. Highly doubt it would matter, no cpu? POST wont check anything beyond that keep in mind the board DOES have “pins” to check voltages with a voltometer. Meh, maybe try that? any, any ideas would be a great help. (Whining) I wanna play my games! BTW as mentioned I have a usb with saved profiles on it. I been backing em up since I finished the build. If anybody has a way of viewing them (dono how, are they saved in text?) maybe that would provide best course of action?

Im considering overclocking my cpu, but ive heard mixed opinions on the health risk it poses towards components. Can overclocking fry your motherboard or cpu? If it can, what is a safe level of overclocking that will deliver a good boost in performance while still staying safe? I have a 7700x

I'm currently using a 60 hz "monitor" that's really just a tv. Is it safe to overclock it to above 60? What are the downsides of overclocking?

Hi LTT Form. I came and seek the wisdom of this community again. I recently just built a home server out of curiosity and wanted to experiment with different tech. Here are my hardware specs: CPU: AMD 8700G GPU: Gigabyte RTX 4060 Ti (The only one I found that can fit in the case, also powerful enough for my use case) Motherboard: msi mpg b650i edge wifi Memory: G.Skilll Flare X5 Series DDR5 32GB *2 PSU: Cooler Master V850 SFX Gold Bootdrive: Samsung 980 Pro 1TB Hard Drive: Seagate IronWolf Pro 12 TB Case: JONSBO N3 The software I am running/ planning to run: Proxmox as the hypervisor OS TrueNAS (Thinking about switching to Unraid) Ubuntu 22.04 Server Windows 11 pro. Here are my use cases: Truenas (or Unraid) for storage. I am running RAIDZ2 right now and don't like the expandability TrueNAS offers. Ubuntu to run pihole, vpn service, website hosting, and probably some others. Windows 11 Pro (passthrough GPU to this) runs Plex and games to stream to my Steam deck via a Steam link or directly display on TV. Here are the problems I am currently facing: TrueNAS cannot perform SMART scans because some instructions are missing. TrueNAS gives about 20 checksum errors on all drives each day. Here are my thoughts on what may cause errors: I am not running ECC memory. I've read many posts saying the importance of ECC to ZFS, but there are also a lot of posts saying it's not an issue. I turned AMD expo on, and the overclock is causing the error bits. I want to fix these issues as well as maybe switch to Unraid as it offers to expand my storage drive by drive without TrueNAS's pool and dataset complications. Any idea if ECC is actually necessary? I don't mind redoing my build, but I want to avoid it if AMD Expo is the primary issue. I also suspect it's because I am booting using bios instead of UEFI. Will that be an issue?

Hello! For any users of the AOC 22B1HS, have you guys tried overclocking this 60hz monitor to 75hz? Has any issues popped up? To scared to overclock my monitor to see for myself since I just bought it, and it took me a really long time to save up for it lol. Thanks in advance!

I am somehow running a 3770k at 6.3ghz overclock. I without water cooling. With the MSI Z77A-GD55. With a Pad no paste. Single fan Deep cool 1 CPU fan. I been trying to find out why this is possible. I Have no issues with it at all. 500w system. CPU-Z does not get the see it. But the bios and Window 11 and 10 Task Manager see it. I am actually Having problem. With most program showing it. i DONT KNOW WHAT TO SAY BUT I WANTED TO DOCUMENT THIS.

Hi, I'm new to overclocking and wanted to ask why enabling the XMP profile on my RAM cause my games to crash? I have an MSI B450 Gaming Plus Max and T-Force Delta RGB 8x2 GB 3600 mHz. I've already updated my BIOS before installing my operating system and downloaded the latest drivers for my motherboard (from the MSI support website). Some other things worth noting: I use an HDD as my only drive because I have yet to purchase an NVME SSD, I have a Ryzen 5 2600X and an RX 580. Both my CPU and GPU are running on their base speed. I've only tried boosting my RAM. My friend advised me to try running my RAM on its base speed (2400 mHz) and see what happens. And surely, my games run just fine. I'm just curious if there is a way to utilize the maximum performance of my RAM without having issues.

I have a 5600g and I wanted to squeeze a little more power out of it and I have ample cooling and power from my NH-D15 and my old 1200 watt power supply so I was wondering what are safe settings to get some more power out of it like what should I put in for the PBO limits I saw some people doing a little over 100w on ppt limit but no one had anything with numbers for SOC TDC and SOC EDC so I’m a little confused idk if the photo will help but any advice or numbers I can just put in so Ik I won’t damage anything or cause my pc to crash but still get me a bit more performance and power usage would be much appreciated. I added from what I’ve seen online a picture of what I’m guessing will work but any critique or suggestions would be appreciated.

Hi, Specs: 12700K Gigabyte Z690 Aorus Pro ASUS RTX ROG Strix OC 4090 Seasonic Vertex GX1200 BIOS F28 Windows 11 23H2 UPDATE: So I got the new RAM kit in and it was the same kit. They're running at the XMP profile and my CPU is overclocked. Everything is stable and running smoothly for a few days now. In case anyone else is using this combo, it worked for me. PCPartPicker and Micro Center say that the memory I am about to purchase (again, I'll explain) is compatible with my CPU/mobo combo (G.SKILL Trident Z5 RGB Series (Intel XMP 3.0) DDR5 RAM 64GB (2x32GB) 6400MT/s CL32-39-39-102 1.40V (F5-6400J3239G32GX2-TZ5RK)). The first time I purchased this RAM kit, XMP was enabled automatically, and everything was running well except for some crashes (COD and Unity). I ran DDU in safe mode and removed my GPU driver and reinstalled it. I then overclocked my CPU (previously tested and stable OC) and started getting BSODs. It corrupted my OS. I then tested the RAM with Memtest86+, and the memory failed, so I sent it back. My motherboard has been tested up to 6200MT/s, but none are with 64GB, only 32GB. G.Skill tested 64GB kits but only up to 5600MT/s. I have read that this should be good to go, but OC is never a sure thing. I have a 6-layer PCB, which isn't ideal for this kit but it should be good enough. The power phases (16+1+2) should be good enough as well (correct me if I'm wrong). Could anyone give some advice as to why 64GB (2x32GB) running at 6400MT/s with CL32 is tough on my motherboard? Also, has anyone had any success at doing this with a similar build? Would overclocking the CPU make it harder on my system which could cause the BSODs? I am going to leave my CPU at stock OC next time around (not a good risk-reward). Could those DIMMs I sent back actually be good, but my motherboard caused or contributed to the failing memory test? I have attached the system information and the failed test results taken by Memtest86+. Thanks!

Hey everybody, i have just built my first pc and it would randomly freeze when playing games. So i tried stress testing it in Prime95 and Intel Extreme Tuning Utility. It freezes usually about 1-5 min into the test. All the lights in my pc are still on and fans are spinning when it freezes but i cannot do anything. I have not done any overclocking btw only xmp in bios turned on. My Specs: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WqwTFs CPU: Intel Core i9-14900K 3.2 GHz 24-Core Processor CPU Cooler: Lian Li Galahad II Trinity Performance 108.29 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler Motherboard: Gigabyte Z790 AORUS ELITE X WIFI7 ATX LGA1700 Motherboard Memory: G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-7200 CL34 Memory Storage: Western Digital Black SN850X 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive GPU: Gigabyte GAMING OC GeForce RTX 4060 Ti 8 GB Video Card PSU: MSI A1000G PCIE5 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply CPU temp at time of freeze: 75-85 C Idle Temps are 35-45 C

Hello everyone, I would like to ask for help with overclocking my new PC. I've dabbled in OC but don't know too much just trying to feel the difference between my old parts to new parts. OLD PC Parts- MSI B550M pro vdh wifi, ryzen 5 3600, 2070 Super XC Ultra 8GB NEW PC Parts- MSI Pro B650-p wifi, Ryzen 7 7800X3D, 2070 Super XC Ultra 8GB. Any help is accepted, thank you

I recently upgraded my PC and I'm not noticing much of a difference is there anyone who can give advice on OC & or Advice on what to do in bios? SPECS listed below OLD Specs: MSI b550 m pro vdh wifi, EVGA 2070 super xc OC, ryzen 5 3600 NEW Specs: MSI PRO B650-P WIFI, EVGA 2070 super xc OC, Ryzen 7 7800 X3D, ALSO NEW Deepcool ak620 high performance.

The image below shows the current results I seem to achieve with somewhat decent cooling, -20 offset on the "Curve Optimizer" and "Boost Clock Override" of +200Mhz. I have quite a bit of thermal headroom and what I'm looking for is how I would adjust per-core CO and per-core Boost Clock Override to push the core further. Would I push the good cores even more or should I do the opposite and push the other ones? That's where I'm currently at, especially because I don't know how the different CCDs should be handled optimally.

Hello all, I have an Asus x99 WS/IPMI(supports overclocking) motherboard running a E5-1650v3(unlocked) CPU, but I am not able to overclock the CPU in BIOS through AI Tweaker using "CPU Core Ratio", the CPU Core ratio is set to auto and the option is grayed out, I can't change it even though the CPU has unlocked multiplier, the motherboard is considering it locked. The hardware is capable of overclocking but maybe Asus locked it in the BIOS for E5-16xxV3 CPUs? or Am I not doing it proper? Does anyone have the same motherboard with a E5-16xxV3 CPU and managed to overclock it using CPU core multiplier ratio? Any help will be appreciated.

Hello everyone I want to overclock my system, but I'm completely new to this. I would be very grateful if you could help me My system: CPU - i7 4960x Motherboard - Asus Rampage IV Extreme RAM - DDR3 HyperX Beast 2400MHz 4x8Gb (HX324C11T3K4/32) GPU - MSI RTX 2060 Super Armor OC Cooler - DeepCool AK620 I looked at a couple of forum topics with my hardware on the Internet (there are not many of them) and applied the following parameters: BCLK - 100 CPU - 44 Vcore - 1.24 VCCSA - 1.15 CPU PLL Voltage - 1.80 CPU Spread Spectrum - Disabled PCI Spread Spectrum - Disabled CPU C States- Disabled Enhanced Intel SpeedStem Technology - Disabled Intel Adaptive Thermal Monitor - Disabled Execute Disable Bit - Disabled Intel Virtualization Technology - Disabled DRAM Frequency - 2400MHz DRAM Timings - 11-13-13-32-2 DRAM Voltage - 1.65 GPU Power Limit - 105% GPU Core Clock - +100Mhz GPU Memory Clock - +750Mhz The system works stable and i felt an improve from the stock settings, but in some games there are freezes when changing scenes or lines of dialogue. For example Batman from TellTale Games, The Invincible. Fortnite lagging even on minimal settings (idk why). I want to overclock my system even more, especially RAM, because a cant figure out how to run it stable with increased frequency or decreased timings

GPU: RX 6650 XT OS: Windows 11 Pro Did no modifications to the GPU itself (hardware and software) so its in pretty stock settings heres a video where i overclocked the fan mid gameplay on Youtube: Ingame (on top of the screen) graphs from the AMD software while setting the max fan speed to 90% (yes its gameplay but thats there). And after i set the overclock it just was louder then all of my 2009-2015 HDDs durring peak usage. If the GPU is so limited, should i do it even when its so loud or should i just set something less "that high"?

Hello everyone! My computer was damaged from an old roommate, but I have saved certain items. As of now, it's up and running, and here are the specs: Asus Tuf b450 gaming plus ii, Ryzen 5 3600 with a 220w tower cooler, 2x8gb XPG 3200 mhz, ASRock Radeon RX 6600 8gb, MSI A750GL, and WD 1TB SSD. I'm looking to improve overall speed, and improving FPS wouldn't hurt too. I was considering upgrading to a Ryzen 7 5700X, but unsure if I should upgrade to 32gb of RAM? I know 3200mhz is what is supported, but this is my first build, and I'm really not quite sure what the right move is. I'm also unaware of how to properly set up my BIOS to maximize efficiency without burning out my system (I have no idea how overclocking works lol). Any help would be appreciated! Thanks!

Doing some searching on forums looking into if it will be possible to overclock RAM on a laptop I have on the way that without a doubt does not support timing changes in the BIOS (The AMD version can be made to allow it, but Im going with blue team for other reasons). I have a set of DDR5 Kingston in the mail that will *hopefully* run 5600mts at CL40. So far Ive only found two possibilities to use, one being Thaiphoon Burner, which I see a lot of (rather old) posts saying not to use it for DDR5; and the second is Cam NZXT, which has a lot of posts saying not to use it at all. Im going to keep digging around and will have a test dummy RAM kit (what comes with the laptop) to play around with a little bit. Wanted to make a post here just incase anyone here has other insight to point me in the right direction here though too. I am painfully aware laptops are not ideal for overclocking, Im just having fun here. Not to mention, Overclocking the RAM on my current laptop got me 1k CPU and GPU in TimeSpy and the 3080m/11800h WR because my CPU was a bottleneck, so I have some affection for RAM overclocking now.

hey guys! i have been rocking this beast for about a year now and i want to start overclocking it. the only issue is that it runs almost always at 95C! im using a NZXT Kraken Z Series Z73 360mm, and i cant seem to keep temps under control. as much as i love the led screen on the pump, i would rather have performance. is there a better cooler on the market? i dont feel comfortable with custom water cooling but i might have to give it a try. and help or advice would be awesome. thanks!

I’m having trouble with my pc not booting while trying to use the docp profile in my bios. I’m very new to this but I can’t seem to tweak anything past 2133mhz without getting the “booted in safe mode” screen. I am using an Asus tufgaming x570 motherboard as well. Does anyone know any ways to fix this or what could be causing this error? I’ve left my current settings in multiple pictures below as reference.

Browser, version and OS: Windows 10 Home, 22H2, 19045.3448 Steps to reproduce/what were you doing before it happened? Start computer, flash bios, put ram to 3600 (which my ram can support). What happened? blue screen, started. (reset the bios, put it to 3200mhz, same thing. put it at 2133, what it was running before, and it worked fine? Any other relevant details: CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 4600 MB: MSI Tomahawk B450 MAX II RAM: G.Skill 2x8gb ddr4 3600mhz (3600MT/s CL16-19-19-39) GPU: XFX Swift 210 Radeon 6600 8GB GDDR6 PSU: KRATOS M1-550B

System: Intel i5-13600k (water cooled AlphaCool Eisbear, Thermalright contact frame, AlphaCool Apex backplate) Gigabyte Z790 UD Kingston Fury Beast 2x16 5600Mhz, CL40 Gigabyte RTX 2070 Windforce X3 (water cooled, Bykski block) beQuiet Straight Power 11 750W 2x Sata SSD 3x Sata HDD All cooled by a custom loop with 2x280mm rads, two pumps (DC-LT in the Eisbear and Aquastream XT) and controlled by an Aquaero 6 Pro. i have temperature probes for the RAM and VRMs and neither go above 50°C (122°F) under full load steady state. The CPU peaks at 87°C (183°F) prime95 small FFTs steady state. Water temp never exceeds 40°C. I don't think it's a cooling issue and I really hope it isn't a power issue because I specifically upgraded to this PSU for this build and its the same age as the CPU, RAM and MoBo (about 6 months). Earlier this year I made a platform change from my 7700k to the 13600k and I can not get the system to POST with anything but stock or XMP3. If I touch ANY RAM setting I get a no-POST with the debug-LED showing alternating CPU and RAM fail. When I say any I mean it. XMP2 and 1 don't POST. Going in manually and increasing the timings or clock even by a single digit will cause a no-POST. Turning on any other performance setting for the RAM will result in a no-POST. Even increasing the voltage will result in a no-POST (???). I miss the simplicity of the old platform where you could just play with the settings and before you got to the point where it wouldn't POST it would run terribly unstable. With this I get the feeling it either runs or it doesn't no middle ground. Any guidance or pointers for me to maybe get the RAM to run at least XMP1, doesn't have to go faster than that yet, would be much appreciated.

Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Tarkov, Starfield, light Office applications Other details 7800X3D, 280mm AIO, B650 Gigabyte Elite AX, Corsair Vengeance 6400 DDR5 CL32, 1080Ti for now. I would love some advice for how to efficiently approach casual overclock of the 7800X3D and RAM. I am most interested in what order to overclock the components, what mainstream clocks to try first, what stress tests to run and for how long to zero in on a decent overclock that is stable for everyday use. I am relatively competent. Having delided and clocked my current 8700k i7 to 5GHz but not played with Ram timings before, or owned an AMD since an Athlon 1Ghz, and not a frequent overclocker, so don’t feel very time efficient or clued in, despite these being very casual clocking methods. My general plan after bios updates is to keep RAM stock, enable PMO and -20 CO All Core, 10min test with realbench, check temps, then increase or lower the offset until i find something that is superficially stable and then run realbench, Prime 95 small FTT for a few hours+ Then put the CPU back to default and clock the RAM with XMP to 6400Mhz and test with TM5, and ycruncher Then if stable, add buildzoid’s generic DDR5 Hynix secondaries and retest. Then reintroduce the CPU clock and retest everything. 1. Is that logical? 2. is there a sweet spot with AMD Ryzen 7 for Fclk and ram speed? 2000MHz FCLK/ 6000MHz seems popular. But isn’t FCLK async to MCLK now anyway? More FCLK the better? Should you leave auto and up the RAM speed or clock FCLK to 2033-2166MHz if possible? Any other recommendations? Thanks!

Hello dear community, As already couple of times you saved me and showed me the light I ask once again for your guidance. This is my build: https://fr.pcpartpicker.com/list/2vRHpH. I am looking to overclock my GPU & CPU (don't know about RAM is it possible or is there any point for that one). I never done this before, and honestly I'm kinda scared to do it, not to end up breaking anything. I'm looking for an advice. Should I do it or not. Are the benefits of gaming better, that we can say it was worth doing it? And most importantly HOW to do it? I know it's in BIOS but where, how and what no idea. Looked some YT videos, still clueless. After buying this PC last year I played over 40 games all released in the last 5 years, and currently I'm on Assassin's Creed Odyssey and it doesn't work well. The one before (Origins) worked like a charm, and the games were developed simultaneously so it's hard to believe that I don't have confiugration. On max details the FPS is around 70 but sometimes goes up to 100 and can drop to 40. It's not smooth at all, you can see it, feel it. I looked on YT some other ppl with config similar to mine (same GPU or same CPU) works smoothly. Only GPU seems to be maxed out while in game but still nothing too scary. When I lower graphic there is improvement but nothing too big.

Like the title suggested, I have an i5-12400F, MSI Pro B660M-P DDR4 and Kingston Fury Beast 4x8Gb 3200Mhz DDR4. I tried both XMP profiles and manual OC but the PC won't boot. Right now I have no choice but the run at stock speed. But from what I gathered online, the processor should be able to handle 3200 speed DDR4 RAM and I've found the same setup online running 4x8Gb at 3200Mhz just fine. So what can I do to OC my RAM? Originally I was running 2x8Gb at 3200Mhz speed just fine, but I wanted extra performance for Escape From Tarkov, and given that my MOBO has 4 RAM slots, I unknowingly purchased the same 2x8Gb kit, thinking they're the same so they shouldn't have any compatibility issues. But I later found out that processors have memory controllers that can only handle so much RAM. So I gave up on trying to run XMP. But I came across people with similar setups to mine that run the same 4x8Gb setup just fine, even running at 3600 speed so that's how I ended here. Any advice on this would be greatly appreciated.