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Hey LTT Forum! My MAG241C has had this issue for about 3 years since I got it and now it's been much more of a problem. For the first ~3 months of getting the monitor the display port worked perfectly fine, then one day it just didn't work at all, no matter how hard my dad and I tried we could not get it to work whatsoever so I switched to just using it on HDMI. Then I switched to an AMD (vega 56) card and display port worked perfectly fine until I switched to Nvidia (RTX2080) yet again it refused to function on display port. I switched CSM on my motherboard, worked for an hour then didn't work on display port so I switched back to HDMI, The screen tearing is horrific and almost unusable in some games and applications. Any solution that I don't know of?
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Awhile back I bought my GPU and CPU; The CPU being the Ryzen 3 3200g. I didn't have money for the rest of my parts (The reason I ordered those 2 was cause I thought the GPU would work with my current and future board and I thought I could order a motherboard too but something came up). I plan on getting an MSI B450-M Tomahawk MAX as I hear its great, Ryzen 3000 ready and if I needed for whatever reason I could flash bios without a chip. Anyways, I was looking for RAM to pair with this Motherboard and CPU. I do plan on upgrading to a Ryzen 5 3600 whenever I can. TLDR; What RAM works best with my current CPU and potentially my future one? I don't really care about RGB (though I don't mind it) and what clock speeds will I benefit from most? Will 3600 ram sticks be worth the extra money compared to 3200 ones?
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EZ DEBUG LED shows RED CPU and AMBER DRAM Building my first pc; I've done teardowns before and so I'm moderately knowledgeable on parts, specs, and whatnot. I was going for the most budget options with high specs, so here is the parts list: GPU: AMD Radeon RX 7900 XTX CPU: Ryzen 7900X MOBO: MSI B650M-A Wifi RAM: Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB (single stick of dual channel) Wraith Prism Cooler; I will also try the LT720 Liquid Cooler, but I don't think this is the problem. 1 TB SSD, Samsung Brand PSU: 1000W TF Skywind Intl. RGB Concerning the RAM, I had a pair of dual channel 2x16GB Kingston Fury 5600MHz, but was not on the MOBO QVL list. I have been using the Corsair stick ever since, for trouble shooting. I made sure to put the single Corsair Dominator into the DIMMA2 slot- according to the user guide. Similarly, when using the 2x16GB Kingston Fury, I used the DIMMA2 and DIMMB2 slots- again, according the user guide. No success. I have tried Flashing BIOS with USB stick; Flash is successful, but PC won't BOOT. Can't get a display, tried reapplying thermal paste, resocketing CPU, DRAM, removing everything except PSU, CPU, RAM and MOBO; still doesn't work. Integrated graphics on the CPU should have created a display even without the GPU, but no success. It appeared that some of the pins on the CPU SOCKET (on the MOBO) were bent; I carefully put them back in shape, testing before and after this. Online resources said a couple bent SOCKET pins would not affect conductivity. I have reset CMOS multiple times, reuploading latest BIOS. Has worked more times than not. Otherwise, I've been stuck for weeks. The PC turns on- RBG fans and RAM light up- but no BOOT. I have tried exchanging PSUs- previously I was using the CORSAIR CX750 RGB. I am aware the TF Skywind is a terrible PSU, but it's working for now and I just want this to work. The only thing that has changed is that occasionally the BOOT and VGA LEDs will light up as well, sometimes turning OFF the CPU LED. I have no idea why this happens. Pins are as follows: 8 pin connector to CPU ATX to MOBO 2 separate Daisy 8 pins to GPU- I made sure to not connected 8pins on the daisies, there are two 8 pins running from PSU to CPU PLEASE HELP ME
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Hi everyone, so I recently bought a new case (Lian Li O11DXL-X O11 Dynamic XL) because the one I had was too big (Obsidian Series 1000D Super-Tower Case) and I also replaced my fans (Thermaltake Riing Trio 12 RGB (14 fans total) to Corsair iCUE LINK QX120 RGB) (10 fans total)). Everything was working fine until I swapped everything to the new case. Ever since my parts swap I get 1 of 3 problems. The first problem, my PC freezes and restarts without a bluescreen or error message, Second problem, is my PC freezes but the mouse still works and I am able to click around but nothing is responsive, and when I try to shut down or restart, I'm just on the "shut off" or "Restart" screen for minutes or even hours if I were to let it sit. The third problem is that my PC is completely frozen. All 3 problems do have one thing in common the RGB on the RAM will freeze first, and/or the RGB on the fans will freeze and go to their default colors (both products are Corsair). I did notice that 2 of 3 problems only happen when I'm gaming for an hour or two (freeze and restart or completely freeze). I did do a couple of basic troubleshooting like looking for driver updates and removing 2 RAM sticks (this kind of fixed one of the issues which was freezing but the mouse was still responsive), so the problem only occurred when I had 4 RAM sticks on the mobo, I did try all 4 Ram sticks, 2 sticks at a time on all 4 slots to see if it was a bad RAM or a bad slot. And, I also heard that my fans consumed a lot of wattage but I can't find any info on how much they consume. Sorry for the long message, and thank you for your time and attention, TIA guys. FYI: I did drop the PSU while swapping out the parts and the radiator hose was applying pressure on one of the RAM sticks, idk if one of those is the problem or if it's something else completely. SPECS: MPG X570 GAMING PRO CARBON WIFI Corsair VENGEANCE RGB PRO DDR4 64GB (4x16GB) 3600MHz PNY GeFORCE RTX 4090 24GB XLR8 Gaming AMD RYZEN 9 5950x 16-core NZXT Kraken 360mm AIO CPU Liquid Cooler SAMSUNG 980 SSD 1TB PCle 3.0x4 SAMSUNG 870 QVO SATA III SSD 8TB SAMSUNG 870 QVO SATA III SSD 6TB Corsair iCUE LINK QX120 RGB 120mm Magnetic Dome RGB Fans (10 fans) with iCUE LINK System Hub MSI MPG A1000G PCIE 5 & ATX 3.0 Gaming Power Supply
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Hi there, I built my new machine yesterday with the MSI Mag Z790 Tomahawk. It has an i7-13700k, RTX 3080TI and 32GB of Corsair Vengeance DDR5 RAM. The system seems to boot normally, the Debug LEDS go on and off, and stay at green (no boot device) if the windows install stick is not plugged in and go off completely if plugged in. The only problem is I do not get video output whatsoever. I took out the GPU, plugged both HDMI and DisplayPort directly into the board, no change. I reset the BIOS (with the Button and the CMOS battery), flashed the Bios with the latest version, switched out the RAM and tried different keyboards, cables and monitors. Does anybody have a solution to this or at least a similar issue, I do not know what to do anymore besides returning the board.
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Hello everyone. I've been scouring the forums and haven't found exact same issue I'm having so hoping someone can help me out. I have a new PC (first time building myself) with the Ryzen 9 5900x and the MSI Gaming X Trio 4080, Asus Tuf Gaming x570 Plus WiFi Mobo, 32gb of 3200 CL16 RAM and thermal take 850w 80+ gold PSU. Over the past week I've noticed some performance issues in various games so I've ran some Furmark tests, 3D Mark Time Spy and a few others. Across the board I'm getting several thousand points lower than similar systems, including about 5000 less on time spy at 2560x1440. I've also noticed my CPU isn't going to full boost of 4.8 and is sitting at approximately 4.0-4.2 during these tests. On games such as Warzone 2, Battlefield 2042 I'm sitting at low 80s to low 100s at 1440p at all settings from low to ultra/extreme. The only thing that impacts it is going to 4k or turning on ray tracing. Even DLSS makes almost no difference. At most 5fps increase. I've gone through the DDU process, set D.O.C.P and tried every other setting suggested through various YT channels and Google searches. Lastly most of the time my GPU utilization sits around 75-80 with jumps to 95 and back down. I feel like something is wrong and my specs should be performing better. TL;DR Ryzen 9 5900x MSI 4080 running far below average, performance stays the same at all graphical settings minus change from 1440 to 4k. Thanks in advance for any tips or help.
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Hi, This post is especially for MSI M450 Tomahawk Max users. Suppose you have 16GB Ram in your system right now and If you want to upgrade it to 32/64GB. Although this motherboard has 4 ram slots but the CPU memory controller (Corrected) on this is extremely poor, i have been using this motherboard for almost 2 years and this is what i came up with after a lot of testing and stressing. I have 4x 8GB Corsair Vengeance lpx 3600Mhz cl18 sticks. CPU: Ryzen 5 3600. Below are the confirmed, tested and stable configuration. (1 or 2 sticks of rams) - XMP Profile ON 1x 8GB Corsair Vengeance lpx 3600Mhz works on 3600Mhz Speed - Slot 2 2x 8GB Corsair Vengeance lpx 3600Mhz works on 3600Mhz Speed (dual channel) - Slot 2, 4 Below are the confirmed, tested and stable configuration. (4 sticks of rams) - XMP Profile OFF If you put 4 sticks it wont work by default, here is the work around. Put 1 RAM stick Turn OFF XMP Profile Go to Overclocking and in memory speed put 3000 or 31xx, leave the rest as default Save, Boot up then Turn off. Put all 4 RAM stick, Boot up. 4x 8GB Corsair Vengeance lpx 3600Mhz works on 2133Mhz Speed 4x 8GB Corsair Vengeance lpx 3600Mhz works on 3000Mhz Speed 4x 8GB Corsair Vengeance lpx 3600Mhz does not works on 3200Mhz Speed (use to work before but now it does not) 4x 8GB Corsair Vengeance lpx 3600Mhz does not works on 3600Mhz Speed Ideal Condition: Use single 16GB stick Use 2x 16gb stick for total 32gb ram Use 2x 32gb stick for total 64gb ram Bios version: 7C02v39 Don't want to go higher than that because when selling this can not be sold to any ryzen 5 3xx series. after that bios update. Thank you for reading this. I hope this post help user deciding what to purchase when you want to upgrade or purchase new rams for this motherboard. Have a great day.
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I recently got a pc with a z790 MSI Pro-A and (accidentally) non pwm fans. The motherboard boasts a "digital pwm" feature, which I imagine is directed towards non pwm fans, but I can't find what it does or how to use it. It's not a huge deal to be because I hadn't planned on messing with the fan curve anyway, but it would be nice to know what this feature does.
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Hello everyone first time posting here. Back in April I bought my first gaming PC (pre built) I have the MSI Aegis RS 13th Gen RTX4070Ti Gaming Desktop Aegis RS 13NUF-439US. It has been working completely fine for me until now. I went away for over a week so it wasn't turned on and the power supply was turned off before I went away. Tonight I turned it on for the first time and the AIO liquid cooler made a weird noise but I didn't think anything off it. I started to play a game and it randomly shut off 20 minutes in and wouldn't turn back on. I was able to turn it back on after 10 minutes but this time It turned off in 2 minutes. So now I'm just wondering if anyone has dealt with a similar issue or would have any idea what to do.
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Water Cooled Laptop, MSI GP66 This linked video is a bit of a TLDR and shows the most current setup of the laptop and radiator stand. There are some gameplay clips at the end and all games are on ultra with RTX on and DLSS on quality in 1080p because that is what my monitor is. The end shows pictures of the cooler in it's different configurations over time. Towards the end of last year I found myself trying to cut up my IETS GT500 cooling pad to replace the fan and make it more quiet. While doing this I came across a series of water cooled laptop videos from LTT and a few others. After finding out about the XMG laptops and their Oasis cooler shortly after, I knew I needed to give it a shot. Cost wise the XMG laptops weren't it for me, I thought I could out do them with a better preforming laptop and a DIY water loop and radiator setup while keeping it as practical if not more. From here, I settled on an MSI GP66 11UH, the most powerful gaming laptop in it's class holding the record of (at the time) 14,057 and a BeQuiet Pure Loop to keep on the idea of keeping things as quiet as possible. Way too many attempts at bending 1/4" copper pipe to match the stock heatsink, 2 broken stock heatsinks, and more SnBi solder than Id like to admit, I had my first iteration of the water cooled GP66 together. The first version used a remote radiator connected by amazon QDC which were soon replaced by Koolance QDC which are nothing short of amazing. I kept with BeQuiet fans and experimented with a few fan variations. Starting with 2 Pure Wings fans and then 4 in a push pull setup I stuck with 4 for a time mainly because the fans helped keep the radiator from getting dinged up in a backpack (did I mention I was taking this with me to work?). Eventually I dialed this in to just 2 Silent Wings 3 fans with higher static pressure. With the water cooling set up, games ran at 15-18* less with no sound from the fans whatsoever. Cinebench gained about 3000 points from air cooling, air cooling still worked perfectly, and I set the now world record score of 14,091 on Time Spy for the 11800h/3080 combo! Time went on and I was hit with a realization, this all started because I wanted a more quiet cooling pad, so why haven't I made this radiator into a cooling pad yet? I ran to MicroCenter and grabbed something I thought would work. Let me take a second to say, the MicroCenter guys in Tustin are troopers; dudes did what they could to help with this madness and not one cracked a laugh when I said I was water cooling a laptop. With some minor modification I rigged up the radiator, reservoir, and voltage regulator to the stand. It still worked, but it degraded the cooling significantly. because there was no bottom if I used the laptop in bed a blanket would block any and all airflow. Regardless of placement, the grating on the top further suffocated the fans trying to blow through them. This reduced the cooling gains from -18* to -10* at best. After giving it some time I flushed the Go Chiller coolant I was trying out (didn't even give it a week and it was causing more liquid to come out of the QDC because of gunking them up) and 'borrowed' my wife's old stand she had for a chrome book. Using zip ties at first it was obvious this stand would be the way to go. The top was unobstructive and the bottom kept the intake fans from being blocked. These two benefits weren't the only things, the cooling actually improved compared to the remote radiator. Keeping about 10mm for the fans to have good airflow, the cool air from the fans (cooler than the laptop at least) was blowing into the intakes of the laptop and helped take off another 2* from when the radiator was remote. This wasn't enough for a substantial boost in benchmarks, but it was enough to keep Cinebench from breaking 92* at the same overclock which had previously been (very slightly) throttling. The final tweak that was made to reduce the profile of the stand was to replace the 4 Pure Wings fans (Burnt out the Silent Wings turning the voltage controller too high on accident) with the Phanteks T30 fans. These beastly fans push more air than the push pull BeQuiet fans and are still unbelievably quiet. Lastly, I also 3d printed a bracket for the Koolance fittings, because they are actually bulkhead fittings because they just weren't amazing enough to begin with. With this setup most games will never break 60*. The only game I have that gets anywhere near 70* is the Dead Space remake. Doom Eternal plays at 60* GPU and 61*CPU (73* 81* on air); Metro Exodus (Enhanced Ed) plays at 59* GPU and 54* CPU (79* 75* on air); and Dead Space plays at 55* GPU 65* CPU (64* 87* on air). On all games the overclock and undervolt need to be dialed back on the CPU to prevent crashing when it gets too hot.
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For a while I've been looking at the MSI Z790 Tomahawk WiFi, which seems like a good all-round board at a (somewhat) reasonable price. But lately I found out it doesn't have Dual BIOS (surprising as my MSI Z97 Gaming 7 from 8 years ago had it!), so I'm wondering if there are better options out there at that price point or even slightly higher? For what it's worth, I live in India and the DDR5 Tomahawk costs about 33,500 Rupees. It won't translate directly into USD/CAD as the import duties etc are different, but there you have it. The features I'm looking for: DDR5 Z790 (I'm getting a i5-13600K and am not ruling out overclocking down the line) Minimum 4 x USB 3.0 or better on the rear I/O Clear CMOS button & BIOS Flashback button on the rear I/O Dual BIOS (preferred, but can do without if it's something motherboard makers are simply no longer offering) Some form of EZDebug LEDs A power-on button on the board (preferred, but not mandatory) I don't care much for RGB lighting, addressable fan headers & stuff like that. I don't mind them but lacking those features is not a deal breaker for me. So, any good alternatives for the Tomahawk?
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Budget (including currency): just under 1850 Country: Canada Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: every AAA game... If possible Other details I have a MSI GE66 Raider 2020 or 2019 edition (can't remember) and I need an upgrade, but I am on budget. I did upgrade it a little and made it a 32 GB Ram, and 2tb Storage, my computer runs burning hot all the time and I'm worried I will lose my pictures and documents for family history work. I also want to do gaming. But not sure what's the best upgrade. Please help me, idk what to do.
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i need help my mother board a h410m-b pro has h510 chipset sound strange the b version does that but msi has 400 series drivers on the website
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Hi Im new to the forums so apologies as i get my bearings. I purchased an MSI Crosshair 17 B12U and after a couple of months i swapped the memory for 32GB RAM and added new thermal paste on the CPU and GPU with Arctic MX6. Im a complete novice so i had help doing the teardown with a technician. So i noticed the pink pads on the memory chips and some of them look torn and possibly worn out. So with that in mind, on the next repaste, if i want to replace the thermal pads, what size and thickness would i need? And furthermore, what brand of thermal pads can anyone recommend that's really effective in cooling the laptop? EDIT Judging by the picture the pads look a quite puffy but i can't tell what mm they are and if they are all the same size. I live in Southern Africa so heat management is a bit of an issue during the summers. Ive attached the best picture i have for reference. Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated thanks
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I have narrowed down the laptops I want to a Lenovo Legion Slim 5i Gen8 https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/p/laptops/legion-laptops/legion-slim-series-laptops/legion-slim-5i-gen-8-(16-inch-intel)/82ya000pus?orgRef=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.startpage.com%2F and a MSI Vector GP66 12UHSO https://www.costco.com/msi-vector-gp66-15.6"-laptop---12th-gen-intel-core-i7-12650h---geforce-rtx-3080ti---windows-11.product.4000146916.html both links are to the exact models in question. Though there is a price difference, they come out to about the same price when you match the price of a lenovo warranty to the free one you get at costco. I can see the Lenovo has a much better processor, battery life (though I will use it exclusively plugged in), a screen I don't like, great i/o, and a middling gpu. The msi has an amazing graphics card, the perfect screen for me, but online reviews mention it runs hot (and some mention it's made out of charcoal). I really have no interest in running anything above 1080p at 30-60fps, I don't plan on maxing anything, and I want hardware powerful/reliable enough to last me many years of 1080p/30-60fps gaming on modern games. The lenovo has a 1600p display which is annoying because it comes with such a weak card, meaning just fullscreening games will take a performance and thermal hit I don't want. I worry about the longevity of the hardware performance wise in this regard. I don't want to have to start rolling back my settings in just 2 years or so. The msi has a 1080p which is great because the card is not only stupidly powerful but maxed out wattage, however the cpu is weaker and apparently these 12th gen chips run stupidly hot. Therefore I worry about the longevity of the device in regards to it not cooking itself to death over time. So what do you think would be more long-term reliable and suitable to my purposes?
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I built a new rig and was swapping my drives over, and my new MSI motherboard (Pro b650m-p) requires their proprietary EZ M2 Locker thing, but only one is provided and I can't find any online. does anyone know where i can buy some or an adapter to the normal m.2 screws so that I can use my second drive? also, how bad of an idea is it to use hot glue to plug the hole and glue in a standard standoff?
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Hi everyone... My RTX 4070 has a single 8 Pin slot and MSI MPG A850G comes with 12VHWDP to 2x8 Pin cable. Can I use only one 8 pin connector of this cable to connect my PSU to 4070? Thank you.
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Hi there! So this is my first time building a PC and I got the MSI MAG B550 TOMAHAWK MAX WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard, which has WiFi but requires you to download the WiFi driver before WiFi works. I have found plenty of basic overviews of how to do this- download the drivers on a flash drive and install them, but am still unsure about the exact process. Do I install them in the bios? Can I? Do I have to set up my OS before I can download them? Do I have to download them before I can install my OS since you need WiFi? If anyone can help it will be greatly appreciated. Just so you know I will be installing Windows 11 as my OS.
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Hey guys, I'm looking for a RTX4070 to replace my 3070 which is not operational anymore. I was thinking about two models: The PNY RTX 4070 XLR8 Epic-X or the MSI RTX 4070 Gaming X Trio Mainly I was choosing these two because of the noise levels and the asthetics. I've read in techpowerup's review of the PNY card that it should be very quiet (which is hard to believe since it's just a 2 slot card) and also the MSI one is claimed to be one of the quietest. Also I like the RGB on both cards because I will mount it vertically. Honestly I don't give a damn about the PNY clocking at stock speeds because it's a 4070 anyways and since I won't own any 4070 again i won't notice any difference. The only thing I don't like is MSI's software. The whole MSI center thingy f***ed me off when I owned a RTX2060 Super from MSI because I couldn't get the software uninstalled because it's a trainwreck and some of my games detect it as hacksoftware. So I prefer lightweight Software like the one from PNY, even if I din't have any PNY card. But I know for example Gainward's and Palit's software. So what you guys think? Which card should I give a try?
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I have an MSI g271 as a main monitor and probably a few months ago the bottom part jsut blacked out on 144hz. I have kept it on 120 hz ever since. I’ve tried changing the cable but it didn’t work. Someone please help me I really want 144hz back
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Dear all, For a while now I have been using my gaming PC without any issues or hiccups. The system specs are: AMD Ryzen 7 3700X MSI MPG X570 Gaming Edge Wifi (ATX) 32GB (4x8 GB) Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR-4 RAM with 3200 MHZ and CL16 MSI AMD Radeon 5500 XT Mech 8 GB OC Samsung 970 EVO 500GB NVMe (This is the Boot drive. I have another 1TB NVMe and 3 HDDs adding 2.25TB of Storage) Fractal Design Ion+ 760 Watts Win 11 64 Bit Having not yet found a RTX 3080 12GB that is up-marked prohibitively in its price, I have held on to the 5500 XT, which struggles to power games on my Samsung CRG49 (Odyssey G9 predecessor with 5140x1440p). When I saw AMD`s Announcement of SAM for 3000-series CPUs and 5000-series GPU`s I wanted to try out the feature to squeeze out every bit of available power and updated my old BIOS (E7C37AMS.110) to the latest stable version (E7C37AMS.1I0) which supports all of AMDs latest features. Once I installed the latest BIOS, booting back into Windows after enabling XMP and SAM, I can enjoy the added power. However, as soon as I am restarting, my Computer switches on without hiccups, but will not boot into Windows. It won`t even show the MSI startup Logo and my Keyboard is not getting any power, which makes it impossible to go into the BIOS. The only thing I could do so far is reset my Motherboard to the oldest BIOS version mentioned above. Any other BIOS update I`ve tried does not work (Be it with SAM or without/with Ryzen 5000 series or not). My EZ-Debug LEDs have so far proven unhelpful. Sometimes, there is a GPU Light showing, but i`ve also seen the Boot and CPU debug light. I`ve also tried re-installing my CPU and Graphics Drivers after an update, to no avail. I am starting to run out of debugging ideas and will probably remain on the oldest BIOS version, which is stable. But I am wondering if any of you wonderful people have an idea/had the same issue/tips for me. Kindest regards, Joker
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Hello. I recently purchased a Mag Forge 112R case, which included an ARGB controller which is powered by SATA. Got all my components in the case, wired up everything, and turned it on just fine (this was yesterday). Fans worked, ARGB worked, all seemed well. I put the PC on my porch (don't ask why, i have my reasons) and also fixed the cable management a bit there, and left it on the porch overnight. Now on the second day when i power it on, the ARGB just, doesn't work? however the fans do spin. And if you're wondering, no it did not rain. Ive tried multiple sata ports, nothing. reconnected things, still nothing. Im out of ideas. What the hell caused this, and how do i fix it? if I even can. Really disappointed honestly, didn't expect to run into something like this within 2 days of owning the case. Thanks for any help.
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Hi guys is Eisblock Aurora Acryl GPX-A Radeon RX 6700XT compatible with the Radeon™ RX 6750 XT GAMING X TRIO 12G. Thanks Budget (including currency): Country: France Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc):
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For awhile now I've had what seems like some unusually high temps on this 3080 (MSI RTX 3080 VENTUS 3X). At first, I assumed it was restrictive airflow in my case (it was one of MSI's prebuilt console-style PCs). Just recently built a new one, and carried over the 3080 but am still having unusually high temps for the loads it's under. Main parts of system: Corsair 4000D case (default fan setup so far, one intake one exhaust) Ryzen 7700x (DeepCool AK620) MSI RTX 3080 VENTUS 3X Temps: GPU stock fan curve GPU undervolted to 0.85V and max boost of 1815MHz Ambient temp is around 23C GPU at idle (fans at 0%) is around 50C GPU load at 50-70% gets to around 70-80C (fans at 60%) Any more load and fans rocket up to 100% (unbearably loud) and temps hit 85C and i assume starts throttling I know getting some extra case fans to pull in more fresh air would help (I already have a 5-pack of Arctic P12 on the way), but I'm not sure if they'd really help enough. It feels like I'm having to turn settings down in so many games just to prevent GPU load from hitting 80-100% and dealing with the obnoxious noise. It's definitely outside of warranty period at this point, in-case starting an RMA was even an option over this. But I'm willing to try anything at this point (don't really want to drop $1000+ to get another GPU )