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Showing results for tags 'msi'.
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Hi all, Which of memory speed would be best to pair with my MSi Tomahawk Max motherboard? I'm getting confused by MSi's website saying stating: 1DPC 1R Max speed up to 7800+ MHz 1DPC 2R Max speed up to 6600+ MHz 2DPC 1R Max speed up to 6400+ MHz 2DPC 2R Max speed up to 5600+ MHz I want to fill all 4 slots in the motherboard, and I was going to purchase 2 of the following (for a total of 64GB RAM): CORSAIR VENGEANCE DDR5 RAM 32GB (2x16GB) 7200MHz CL34 Intel XMP iCUE Compatible Computer Memory - Black (CMK32GX5M2X7200C34) Although based on the dot points from MSi's website, by having all 4 slots filled am I even going to get 7200Mhz? Or should I simply buy something cheaper? Thanks in advance everyone! -
So, fresh tower build from ME, had 2 DeepCool LT720 liquid coolers fail (grinding). They replaced the last AOI with a Lian Li GAll Trinity 360. The tech installed Lian Li's L-Connect software. I didn't ask them to, but it's on. I was using MSI Center for fan control, which seemed to work with the last two AOI coolers, and showed both cpu and pump speed/fan control. Now, it seems like the Lian Li rad fan keeps fluctuating, like every 5-10 seconds, and pump fan doesn't show. Doesn't matter what I adjust on the MSI, or the Lian Li software, it keeps doing it. I don't know what to look for or even where to start. Any advice? What do you need to know? mobo spec: MSI Tomahawk Z790
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I don't know if someone can help me, but I really need help… I have this laptop by 3 years and I experience a lot of problems (my dad brought it and I don't know the info about transactions because I returned by the day I received it). Well the processor get higher and higher and sometimes the processes or cores get crazy just watching or do nothing and stay on discord and I don't know why ;/. I tried hard to make the processor stay stable, and it worked a time, now it's the worst and when it reaches the limits It's randomly turned off. Well it's turned off because I don't have battery, but it was doing the same a few 4 months, randomly when it reached the limits the laptop charger automatically like it get disabled and reactivated, and sometimes it gets triggered in some times. Also, my GPU without enable the MSI Mode, I found this thing on this sub Reddit, and it helps a little (I don't know why it's needed and why it's not enabled my GPU on MSI mode or something, but it works a little but sometimes its auto disabled like it's not existed my GPU and have a lot of lag spikes without make a setting on Nvidia control panel). I tried to make also my CPU work a little better by using this Ultimate Tweaking for my laptop, and it works, right now I use that, but I still cannot use my laptop normal and I don't know why and what to do about that... Some settings I changed to be clear what I changed; By me https://imgur.com/a/DYrHFUL Default https://imgur.com/a/7PNnorU And to tell my experienced: Dying Light - Without makes settings average 40–55 FPS sometimes 60, but it's a nice luck to get 60 and all the settings it's on lite or medium depends on how my laptop prefer. After makes some settings on Nvidia control panel and try to make it performant its reach the normal state like 115 FPS avg and 70–78 PFS min with 4ms, and it's kinda okay. But after some time on playing it automatically turned off ;( Honkai : Star Rail - Medium profile on settings and same settings on Nvidia control panel, it's automatically turned off after I try to pay after cutscene on the start. COD Cold of War Zombies - Sometimes Play and turned off automatically with low and medium profile Minecraft - with or without mods same play sometimes and turned automatically off Roblox - on some games like no need for performance, It's turned off automatically I don't know what's wrong with my laptop, I change the thermal paste like every 4 mounts to know that it's not get melted, recently I change the thermal pads and it's the same. Can someone resolve my problem? -
So recently, I turned on my computer to find the GPU fans constantly at 100% speed. I tried to check MSI Afterburner (which is the software I use to control my fan speeds), and Afterburner said the GPU fans were running at the correct percentage. But judging by the sounds of the GPU fans, it very much was not running the listed speed. After this discovery, I updated my drivers, reset my bios settings, and reinstalled MSI Afterburner (to no avail). Specs: Windows 11 Home 22621.2861 Intel Core i5-9400f 1x Crucial CT16G4DFD8266 16 GB DDR4-2666 CL19 1x Corsair Vengance 8 GB DDR4-3200 Corsair H100i v2 70.69 CFM 1x Samsung 860 Evo 250 GB 2.5" SSD 1x Crucial (?) 250 GB M.2 (sorry can't remember the exact model) ASUS ROG Strix GeForce GTX 1070 8GB OC Cooler Master MasterBox Q300L Case Gigabyte B365M DS3H Micro ATX Motherboard EVGA 500 W1 500 W 80+ ATX PSU I believe it's an OS problem, as the fans only kick to 100% speed about a minute after logging into the computer. Thanks for any help you can provide!
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bios MSI motherboard has no M-Flash option
kevyolo123 posted a topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
hello, this is my first post so please excuse any weirdness. I have a MSI Aegis 3, my motherboard is MS-B907, BIOS version is: EB907IMS.820 As you can see from the picture (attached) I have no M-FLASH option on the bottom left, I saw a similar issue from a later post here that got cold and I am wondering if could get some further help on this issue.
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I was looking into possibly updating my Bios in preparation for a new CPU I purchased for my system (i9 9900K), when I discovered that I was having very severe input stutters with both mouse and keyboard. Keyboard is wired and mouse is wireless but both are stuttering. I reset the bios settings to default to make sure it wasn't anything wrong with the base overclock, and while the stutters were better they were still present in the Bios. I've attached a preview of the settings that were changed with the reset and a 30 second video that shows the issue I am still running into. I am at a loss for what the issue could be and especially concerned if its a hardware issue considering I have a new processor on the way. Any help would be appreciated. I do not have this issue when booted into Windows. IMG_5436.MP4
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hi i have 3 ssd gen4 from msi plus 1 gen3 ssd from same brand on my mobo rog crosshair viii extreme i want to know this setup downgrade those gen4 ssd speed to that gen3 or gen4 work as gen4 with full speed and gen 3 work as gen3? happy new year to all 1 gen4 1TB for OS 1 gen4 1TB for my work files 1 gen4 1TB for my backup archive 1gen3 2TB for storing my personal things
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Recently finished building my computer, It booted into the bios, code Ab, so I plugged in my mouse and keyboard and the motherboard code b4 came up and even after unplugging them b4 still hung, I looked in the manual and its for "usb hot plug". I re plugged in my usb connectors (3.2 gen 1 and 2) and got the code again, plugged them into my motherboard usb rather than my case usb and still got it. Even with the b4 error code the mouse an keyboard still work fine. I've been sitting on an msi support ticket for 3 days with the only answer being "what's your bios version" (which I already provided), tried the live chat and just got redirected to the forums (0 results) I asked reddit, and got nothing Is there a fix? should I just ignore it? is this normal? I've had my pc build for the last 4 days. 20240104_182943.mp4
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Hi everyone, I'm building a pc and every component arrived except my ram. I still wanted to test everything without them so plugged in everything, I knew that yellow DRAM light on the motherboard would turn on but also I have my CPU red light on too. I've reseated my CPU couple of times and checked all my pins whether they're bent or not. I've also checked if the cpu fan is plugged or not and plugged that in as well but haven't been able to turn off that red light. Is it okay for the red light to turn on without the ram? Should I be worried that my CPU is dead? My CPU is Ryzen 7600 and mobo is MSI B650 gaming plus wifi. Here is the debug lights of the mobo. Thanks in advance!
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Hey and Happy New Year! I'm planning to upgrade my i5-10400F to an i7-10700, I was looking for an i9 but I've discovered that my board's VRM isn't that great so an i9 would be out of the question Basically, my main question is would my motherboard throttle the i7 under heavy load? I do not plan to overclock, so I'll probably buy the F or non-F version. I don't want to move to a new motherboard since I believe the i7-10700 is more than capable at what I need it to do, i.e video editing and streaming. If my motherboard can't then I'll probably replace it and go with AMD since they tend to be a bit cheaper nowadays in my country Thanks in advance! I5-10400F RX6700XT 32GB RAM MSI B460M PRO Gigabyte P650B (C Tier PSU, It's fine for now will eventually change) -
Good evening, I recently upgraded my cpu and mobo. My original set up was I7 8700 non k, 5600xt, 16GB 3600htz ram, 700watt psu, corsair 240 liquid cooler. I recently upgraded to R5 5600x with an MSI tom gaming plus and I have lost fps in my top played game atm. My top game atm is Destiny 2 i was getting 120-165fps on 1440p, now with my new setup I am getting 75-90fps. So far I have updated mobo bios, installed all up to date amd chipset drivers and I am currently reinstalling gpu drivers. With a better cpu I wouldnt exspect lower fps you would think more fps but I am new to pcs so any advice or help would be greatly appreciated.
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Cpu frequency is lower than advertised
dolanthehecc posted a topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
Cpu is currently limited at 3.90Ghz in windows. But my cpu is actually capable of 4.20ghz. Any ideas? -specs: MSI A320m-a pro Ryzen 5 3400g igpu -
So I’m upgrading my older pc I upgraded ram (worked fine), power supply (worked fine), cpu (not so much). I put in new cpu and the white debug light keeps coming on. I really don’t know what to do… will not boot. Specs B450M BAZOOKA MAX WIFI 32 GB ddr4 ram 850w redragon power suppl ryzen 9 5900x 500 GB ssd
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Hey Guys, Just got my MSI X58 Pro-E Board and the Xeon X5650. After I got the system to post, I tried to boot from my SSD with windows 10 installed. The system detected it as a drive but i couldnt boot from it (Please select a proper boot device bla bla). Then i tried my Hdd with the same windows install and it work fine.
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Hello everyone, im in the process of buying parts for a new pc from scratch. I have pretty much decided on everything but i am unsure which RAM would be the best for my build. Im going for a AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D and my mainboard is going to be the MSI MPG B650I EDGE WIFI AM5 DDR5 Mini ITX. I have two specific rams in mind. G.SKILL Trident Z5 RGB Series 64GB (2 x 32GB) DDR5 5600 CL28 F5-5600J2834F32GX2-TZ5RS Silver and G.Skill Trident Z5 NEO RGB Series 64GB (2 x 32GB) DDR5 6000 CL30-40-40-96 1.40V (AMD Expo) F5-6000J3040G32GX2-TZ5NR I have some questions regarding which one would be better and why exactly. Basically one is 5600mhz and CL28 while the other has more mhz with 6000mhz and a slower CL30. I have read multiple times that 6000mhz CL30 is supposed to be the sweetspot for ryzen7000 for some reason. But i never saw an explanation why exactly that is. Other information i saw was that the CPU prefers lower CL. So what has more weight here? Another thing, the Ryzen 7 7800X3D officially only seems to support speeds up to 5200mhz. What would this mean pratically? Does that mean that no matter which of these RAM i buy that they will run at 5200mhz anyway? Or can i actually use higher mhz with this CPU? Also the CL30 ram supports amd expo while the CL28 does not. Is this of any relevance for me? I hope you guys can help me with these questions. Thank you very much in advance -
Hi everyone! I have just ordered msi mpg b550 gaming plus motherboard, and the amd ryzen 7 5800x, i was told that its compatible by some people. Now when reading more about it theres alot of people saying that it will need a bios update. How would i do this? Or will i not need this? I have no clue how to do this. I am worried that i bought the wrong thing -
Hello, I recently went into BIOS to enable secure boot after getting an error message when trying to play Valorant. After I enabled secure boot, my computer will not boot. It will turn on, show a pro series logo, and then go black. I cannot find any easy to digest solutions online because I am not super knowledgeable about this kind of stuff. Computer Specs: CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 3.6 Ghz Motherboard: MSI B550-A PRO ATX AM4 GPU: XFX THICC III Ultra Radeon 5700XT 8GB
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I have never undervolted before. The temps are around 80 C when gaming. I tried fan curve and now the temps are around 74C bit it sounds like a jet engine. I am worried that during summer it will throttle. I have heard that undervolting often does magic in reducing temps while little to no fps drop. -
Hello Everyone, I hope you've come across a solution to this perplexing issue. Allow me to share my recent experience with the MSI MAG Z790 Tomahawk WiFi motherboard, which has been a source of constant frustration and has consumed countless hours of troubleshooting. To begin with, I updated the BIOS to the most recent one for my motherboard from MSI website, when I initially set up the motherboard, I encountered a major hurdle—no drivers were installed. As a result, various components like network adapters, audio, Bluetooth, and others appeared as 'Other devices' in the Device Manager. Connecting to the internet was impossible, forcing me to install the Windows operating system in limited mode. Eventually, I managed to utilize a second PC to download the necessary network drivers from the MSI website. I can't help but wonder if this level of difficulty is normal, as I don't recall encountering such challenges when I built my last system over five years ago. At present, I've managed to get the WiFi working, making the PC usable. However, I haven't been as fortunate with the Ethernet connection. Despite my best efforts, which included manually installing the latest drivers from MSI's website or Intel's, utilizing MSI Center's auto driver installation, and even trying Intel's driver support assistant, I've been unable to establish a functional Ethernet connection. What's interesting is that the latest LAN drivers for my Windows 10 operating system appear to install correctly. In the Device Manager, the Ethernet adapter is listed as 'intel(R) Ethernet Controller i226-V' under 'Network Adapters,' without any yellow exclamation marks or signs of an unidentified device. I've also attempted disabling the device and deleting the drivers to reinstall the latest versions each time I've attempted to troubleshoot. Every other driver that has been installed seems to be functioning as normal, Wifi, audio etc... Unfortunately, Ethernet connectivity continues to elude me. I'm confident that the cable is not the issue, as it is a standard CAT 6 cable that came with my router and functions when connected to my old PC. Additionally, the Ethernet port on the new MSI motherboard does show signs of activity, with the port lights flickering in amber and green during boot-up. Considering this, I find it unlikely that there is a faulty port or motherboard that somehow passed quality control. I believe there must be a simple solution that I have yet to discover. Perhaps I unintentionally unchecked a setting in the BIOS that disables Ethernet connectivity (although I don't believe I have), or maybe it's a minor problem with the router. I appreciate any insights or guidance you can provide in resolving this matter. Thank you
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I have a Ryzen 5600 and a 6750xt. The graphics card official recommendation is a "650W or greater" PSU. So I bought the MSI PSU, but the 24 pin ATX cable is incredible hard to plug. I had to use all my strength for almost 1 hour and hurt my fingers just to plug the 10 + 18 pin cable to the PSU. The 18 pin side of the cable was the one requiring this ridiculous effort. But now it's being equally hard to plug it on the motherboard, and I think I'd prefer to not risk damaging it now (or latter when I have to remove the cable). So I think I'll just ask for a refund, but I'm not sure what PSU to buy. Should I still try another A650GF? It seems a great PSU, being tier A, gold, modular, 4 stars review on Tom's hardware, 10 years warrant, and being tested as okay in a benchmark test that compared it to the best PSUs. The worst complaints it got were about this cable thing and maybe a noisy fan. I'm okay spending about 50% more of A650GF price. But many says that you shouldn't overthink PSU, as long as it's tier A. So I don't know if I'd be overspending, or even if there's a better alternative.
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Hi everyone. My Specs: CPU: Ryzen 5 5500 GPU: Gigabyte 1050ti OC Motherboard: MSI A520M-A PRO RAM: 2x 8GB Vengance DDR4 3200Mhz PSU: Artic 750W I have attached images. I am honestly so tired of this new build now, and I’m honestly considering just getting rid of it all and forgetting about it. I did a post test before putting the motherboard into the case, as it says to do in the ‘The last PC building guide you’ll ever need’ by LTT, and it went to bios and worked as it should. I continued with the installation and when I tried turning it on inside the case the CPU debug LED on the motherboard is staying lit, I’ve tried mostly all of the troubleshooting methods, like taking the ram out, trying one stick etc, re-sitting the CPU, clearing CMOS, testing the PSU, removing the M.2, using a different graphics card. I would have thought the bios was incompatible with my processor, BUT, why on earth would it have gone to bios before and not now?! I am just so confused on what is even happening, I can’t even try updating the bios because there is no bios flash button on this motherboard, and I don’t really want to buy another CPU and be stuck with it to find out that it’s actually the motherboard that’s broken. Please someone help. Thank You.
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hwinfo MPG A1000G PCIE5 - Low +12V value ? Should I worry ?
OrpheuS_ posted a topic in Power Supplies
Yo ! I just came across a bit of a low value for the +12V rail while under load (playing BG3) and I wanted to know if I should start to worry ? I've never seen such a low value before as they usually hover between 11.95 and 12 but rarely do they go below that. The +3.3V looks quite low as well at 3.23, never hitting the full 3.3V value. PSU : MPG A1000G PCIE5 ATX 3.0 MOBO : MSI Pro Z790-A WiFi CPU : 13700K GPU : 4090 Suprim X Any thoughts ? Let me know ! Thanks.
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Is there anyone who can help me set up this weird ram (custom settings) which is giving me trouble from last 3 years. It works fine for like year or so and suddenly it starts acting up. like last night, everything was working fine and now if i put one stick from each, pc works fine but it does not work with 2 sticks anymore. because of this issue i sold my other rams and went back to dual channel memory. CPU: Ryzen 5 3600 Mobo: Tomahawk Max b450 (Latest bios) Rams: Corsair vengeance lpx cl 18 ( 8x2 3600Mhz) Things i have tried: - reinstalled amd chipset drive to the latest - reinstalled motherboard bios to the latest. - No XMP, everything in bios is default -Reseated CMOS -tried different memory slots for ram Please help, i'm thinking about moving to intel if this thing does not sort out. -
I've been trying to update the BIOS on my mother its a MSI B550M PRO-VDH WIFI6 to update to a ryzen 5000 sieries. The BIOS file I'm getting is from MSI website for this motherboard. The USB drive is recognized but the file does not show up on the M-Flash screen, used different USB drives all formatted to FAT32 (ranging from super old 200MB up to 64GB). Tried using the flash bios button as well and placed the USB drive in the proper location, BIOS renamed to MSI.ROM. All attempts have failed, not sure what I'm doing wrong. Looking for advice onto what to do next.
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MSI GF65 THIN 10SDR display cable cooked
Horizon_123 posted a topic in Laptops and Pre-Built Systems
Ok.. I am aware I am an idiot here and I have made a massive mistake here. I was taking apart my laptop to replace the thermal paste. Everything was going swell up until I went to plug my EDP display cable into the white strip port. This is when it sparked and burnt off one of the pins. I have already purchased a replacement display cable, however is there anything else I should do (besides removing the battery instead of being lazy) to ensure that my next cable doesn’t have its pins melt…
