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Showing results for tags 'mouse'.
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Hi I have g603 currently but from the very beginning it had scroll issue where it was stopping to work. At first it was replaced but after a while the symptoms were there again. I tried to fight with it based on similar issues found on net but yesterday I finally said "that's it". I see that there are much more wireless gaming options there than when G603 came out. That's why I need advise. I can read specifications for myself but it's harder to get durability and stability info. At the moment I'm considering: Logitech G305 - was recommended to me by some user on reddit. I didn't yet have time to read and watch anything about it but I'm little bit afraid of anything from Logitech at the moment...especially when their soft isn't too stable. Steelseries Aerox 3 Wireless - I have little concerns about having holes in the case...What about dust and things like that? Glorious Model O Wireless - the same as above. Pwnage Ultra Custom Wireless Symm 2 (solid sides) - it's probably impossible for me to buy it because I'm looking for something that would be available in Poland or at most in EU. Dell Alienware 610M - my wife suggested this, she doesn't like honeycomb designs. I had also Logitech Pro X Superlight on this list but as it turns out it's horribly expensive... At the moment I like Steelseries and Glorious for a little bit different reasons. I had Sensei long time ago and was happy with it so here is nostalgia. Glorious on the other hand have this PC and joke vibe because of their name and what it's based of. The list isn't closed so if there's anything that I could add to it please tell me. My expectations are really low in this case - all I want is as long battery life as possible from device that is cantered at gaming. That was the reason I choose G603. I don't care too much about weight. G603 with two AAs is quite heavy and it doesn't bother me. Oh and BTW - I will change feet to ceramic eventually whatever I'll choose. Edit: Added Dell Alienware 610M by my wife's suggestion.
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Hey, do you guys recommend me any Gaming Mice (below 25€) that can double and drag click? I need them for Minecraft and it's very important that they can drag click. Thanks!
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- gaming mouse
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Hello everyone! I'm doing physics at university and think it's interesting that many mouse reviewers on youtube say that decreasing the weight of a mouse will always give you better aim. The truth is that mice weight is a preference. Mouses with more weight will give you more control (easier to do smaller movments) on the cost that it takes longer time to move the mouse a certain distance which is the same advantage and disadvantage of using lower sensetivity. The reason to why it's easier to make smaller movements with something that weights more are because of the acceleration the human arm or in other words the force the human arm can do. The human arm has a minimum acceleration/force that it can do and that means that if you do a extremely small movement it sometimes can't do it without needing to correct itself multiple times. Having a mouse that weights more will make the acceleration of the mouse lower and still being able to use a comfortable force to move the mouse. Lower acceleration means easier to do smaller movements at the cost of speed and using more energy to move the mouse. Yes light weight mices will feel better because you don't need to use as much energy to move it a certain distance but it's on the cost of control (doing really small movements). To compensate this you will need to lower your sensetivity and doing so will make you need to move the mouse a longer distance so in the end of the day you will still need to use the same amount of energi (Your arm/hand will still be equally tired). Something that are a little easier to explain are the relationship between mouseweight, mouse feet and mousepad. Using a mousepad with higher friction (also called control mousepads) will do the exact same thing as using a mouse with more weight. The friction force (the force you feel when moving the mouse around the mousepad) are calculated with this formula F=mgμ where F is the friction, m the mass and μ the friction constant between the mousepad and mouseglides. As you can see from the formula using a mousepad with lower friction will give a lower friction force and using a mouse with lower weight will also do it. I have noticed that some mouse viewers claim that both control and fast mousepads are great for aim but that only lower weight for mouses are better. If lower mouseweight are better why are then faster mousepads not also always better? The only way to know how how much a mouse weighs are by moving it vertically in the air. I think it's interesting that many mouse reviewers and casual gamers think lighter weight equals better aim when this is not the case. Mouse companies like Logitech themselves also say that weight is just a preference in their youtube videos. I can say myself that I think it's sometimes pretty fun to move fast with lower weight mouses lol .
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A friend of mine is having problems with a pc I gave him a while back where his wireless logitech M510 mouse does not work with windows. It worked in the bios but not windows, he chose the nuclear option and reinstalled windows on the pc but the problem has persisted with a fresh install. In the device manager there is no "mice or other pointing devices" section, and there is no I2C HID Device in the HID section as well. In msinfo under inputs the pointing devices section is just empty. I went to MSI's website and installed chipset drivers as well as logitechs software which detects the mouse and its battery but still the mouse did not work. I am helping him remotely and have no access to screenshots or anything. It is an i5 4960 in an MSI z97 pcmate motherboard on windows10.
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My pc turns on, but my monitor, keyboard and mouse won't work My PC turns on, fans spin and the lights turn on but then the monitor won't display anything and my keyboard and mouse don't turn on. I tried to turn it off by pressing the power button, but it doesn't even turn off so I had to take out the power cable. I did this twice and it still worked but the screen turned off and the mouse and stuff stopped working while I was gaming. This has happened around a week after I installed my fan hub, does that have to do with anything? Please leave some suggestions on how to fix it https://i.imgur.com/rdVclWr.jpg
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Hi! I bought Corsair Harpoon Wireless mice a few days ago. Everything was working perfectly fine, but today I decided to download an update using ICU interface. It told me to connect my mice using USB so I did. After that, it just stopped working. Like, the RB on the front are still lighting are working, but the laser on the bottom of the mice (I think that's what it's called, this red light that tracks the movement) it just not showing. ICU recognizes the dongle, but does now show mice itself. How can I fix it?
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Mouse-Logitech M90 https://www.amazon.in/dp/B003D8ZT0C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_GE0JH0XJ4R446QP16HJ0 Windows 10 pro trial i3 3220 6 gb ram Gigabyte lga 1155 rev 3 Right click of my mouse suddenly stopped working and the left click is behaving like right click. Sometimes it behaves like right click is stuck. The mouse is barely a month old.
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im writting this with sticky hands on a sticky keyboard on a sticky desktop I dried it with a towel straight away and right now is sitting on our roof to the sun at and angle (advice from my patents) It got spilled to the top and the side buttons stopped working correctly and were pouring coffe even several minutes afterward, the dpi button suffered the most. Later they started working correctly all but were still filled with coffe every time i gripped it.
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Dear techies, I recently got a new mouse (a Razer viper 8k) and out of the box it had no issues. However after a couple of weeks it stopped working on startup (The mouse doesn't seem to get power, for the LED doesn't work either). I have to unplug and re-plug the mouse for it to work like normal. Switching USB-ports does not prevent the issue from happening again when rebooting. Only my mouse is acting this way. I am running windows 10 pro on a more than capable system. This issue has occurred in the past, but that was on a different machine, when my keyboard was having such issues. If anyone could help me out, I would greatly appreciate it.
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are there any wired mice with detachable cables? I end up swapping the mouse between 2 computers right next to each other and thought it would be easier to just have 2 cables already plugged into the computers and be able to swap from the mouse side instead of the back of the computer, like I do with my razer black widow. But the only ones seem to be wireless, and even then some only use the wire for charging instead of mousing.
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Hi was wondering if anyone has a reconnendation for having 2 active windows on either ubuntu 21.04 or 16.04? I have a 1080p resolution and am a keyboard gamer that shares my pc sometimes for gaming. 2 active windows woiuld help as half the screen can have the game and half i can practice my blender art. So 2 mice/2 keyboard assignment program too would help. Dont know if such exthists sides a virtual machine as usb pass through kinda but Thanks.
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- gaming
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I have a PC mouse that whenever I hold a click it does not register the "hold", but keeps thinking I let go of the left mouse button.. Is there anyway to fix this?
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A few days ago I spilt some juice over my nouse and ever since it doesn't work. The RGB lights ups but it doesn't respond when I connect it to my PC. I tried cleaning it and using a hair dryer but it's no good. If I should buy a new mouse, what would be a fantastic replacement if you don't mind me asking? I like Mice with lower input lag and RGB isn't a must. The mouse I have now is a few months old so that's pretty sad..
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Is there any good budget keyboards and mice for xbox gaming
Rthatgames posted a topic in Peripherals
Can anyone suggest a good mouse and keyboard for xbox 1 s gaming -
So my 5 year old budget gaming mouse finally failed and I've been shopping around hoping to upgrade to a wireless FPS mouse. The big winner all over the interwebs seems to be Logitech's G series, and as an owner of the G512 Carbon keyboard I'm inclined to agree. But digging through reviews of the mice, consistently what I'm seeing is button failure of over 20%(!!!) after 3-6 months of use, mostly attributed to Logitech using Chinese made Omron switches instead of Japanese made ones. How can anyone justify spending $100+ on a mouse that's almost guaranteed to fail within a year, and how can a company as big as Logitech not be responding to this? They know it's a common issue, they even have a janky procedure where users upload a YouTube video using a testing app to prove it's actually faulty. There are guides to replacing the switches yourself, but it requires soldering and voiding warranties and seems completely unacceptable for a "premium" product. What do ya'll think? Any first hand experience with this? Is it just not worth getting a wireless mouse right now if companies have to cut costs to make them viable?
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I am using Logitech G102 mouse. From last 15 days it becomes unresponsive for a second while playing any games which require heavy mouse moments like CS-GO and PUBG. Then I realize it happens when you swipe mouse very quickly from one point to another. I tried every thing like Driver reinstallation, I reinstall windows 2 times. Then I thought it could be my GPU, so I removed it. After 3rd windows installation without any GPU running on Integrated GPU, issue is still there. I tried same mouse on my MacBook and Same computer but on linux. Issue was not there. So I think its not the issue with Mouse. Any thoughts, whats wrong with my PC ? 712861233_Counter-Strike_GlobalOffensive2021-05-2518-19-49.mp4
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Good afternoon, I've got a problem with my mouse as you can probably see from the title. Near enough every time I turn my PC on I can't move my mouse from the top right corner of the screen until I unplug it and plug it back in again. I can still right click, but I can't do anything else. I had a wireless mouse before this and that was fine, this one is a wired Marvo M355, it works fine aside from this. Not the most expensive or premium brand I know, but it's not a bad mouse at all. I've not tested the system with another mouse as I don't have another available, otherwise I'd have done that straight away. My display is not touchscreen, I'm on Windows 10 and the drivers are all updated, plus in my device management I've removed all other mice from that menu, and cleaned my registry, Ive also tried in multiple USB inputs. If it wasn't for the amount of posts I've seen online of people saying the same thing while I've been trying to solve this, I'd think it was an issue with the mouse itself, but people are reporting similar behaviour with allsorts of different brands. What could the problem be? Thanks for reading
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My G402 was working fine but when i turned on my pc today it wasn't working. No lights no nothing. It says USB not recognized or the device malfuctioned. Its not the port cz i am using it right now to use another mouse plus it didn't work on any other port or laptop. Any fix or do i need to replace it?
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why does my mouse connects to powered usb and doesn't even fit in unpowered one? I recently bought a logitech mouse and it fits in the powered usb 3.1 but doesn't in the other one. any explanations or is my usb faulty?
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Go to this post instead: I posted to the wrong forum by accident, sorry! I have had this issue for a while now. My razer mouse just sometimes decides to stop working. Ususally it freezes when im just opening a game but sometimes it also just happenes randomly. The only way i have resolved this issue is by restarting my pc. I have un-and reinstalled razer synapse countless times andmy mouses driver is also not outdated. Only my razer mouse is affected by this. I have an old office mouse that works perfectly fine, but i dont like using it. I have recently noticed that whenever this happens, In the event viewer, event 454, DeviceManagement-Enterprise-Diagnostics-Provider can be seen, but i really dont know what that means tbh. I'll attach a picture of the eventviewer error i get (its in german though). My other razer equipment (keyboard and headset) are not affected by this though.
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for general use and fps gaming. right-handed, mosly palm grip, have large hands so something small (like logitech g3** mouses) would be uncomfortable. dont care about fancy lights
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I have had this issue for a while now. My razer mouse just sometimes decides to stop working. Ususally it freezes when im just opening a game but sometimes it also just happenes randomly. The only way i have resolved this issue is by restarting my pc. I have un-and reinstalled razer synapse countless times andmy mouses driver is also not outdated. Only my razer mouse is affected by this. I have an old office mouse that works perfectly fine, but i dont like using it. I have recently noticed that whenever this happens, In the event viewer, event 454, DeviceManagement-Enterprise-Diagnostics-Provider can be seen, but i really dont know what that means tbh. I'll attach a picture of the eventviewer error i get (its in german though). My other razer equipment (keyboard and headset) are not affected by this though.
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I've been using this mouse since 16 February roughly 5 hours a day ever since. I started having this problem about 5 days ago. I'll be playing FPS games such as Apex Legends about once an hour, sometimes twice my mouse light would turn purple and it would stop responding for a second. The second after that my mouse would move really fast in any direction for half a second and then its back to normal. While the mouse is not responding I am moving it so I think the random direction it moves in is the way I moved it rapidly while it was not working. My mouse USB transmitter that is plugged into the back of my PC is about 80cm away from where my mouse is. My desktop PC is on my desk. The logitech software auto updates itself and I am using brand new AA Duracell Ultra battery that is 100% when I press on the battery so see how full it is. How do I fix my problem? I've tried using different USB ports on my PC, didnt work. Right now I am trying 2 new things to see if my problem will be fixed. I am using another brand new battery and I am using the USB extension cable so that the USB transmitter is about 20cm away from the mouse. I have tried cleaning my mouse pad and also making sure there is no dirt blocking the sensor of the mouse. Here is a picture of the LED light when its blue
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Before I get into this I should say I don't care if it's risky or not worth the risk, that's why I am asking for help in the first place. I know the risks, there the same risks as overclocking anything. So please don't argue or ask whether it's worth the risk or not. So I recently saw this video about overclocking any mouse with the technique of overclocking the USB port itself. But the links are broken and I heard it doesn't work on anything past windows 1809 or something. I have also heard about overclocking the mouse itself. (apparently there is a difference or I could be wrong) I do have some sacrificial hardware laying around so I am willing to try it on that before try it on my daily driving hardware.
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Heya. I've got a 2010 iMac running high sierra, with the original magic mouse and keyboard which work without any issues. However, when using a wired mouse (an old Mad Catz rat 7), MacOS seems to only update the cursor location whenever any of the mouse buttons are pressed. The position of the cursor will be visually updated when moving the mouse around, but (for example) any clickable links under the cursor will not be highlighted unless the position is (for lack of better words) manually updated. This includes the detection of the cursor down at the dock, causing it not to pop up when I move the cursor near it (unless I click/drag down to the dock, then it will register the cursor's position there). The issue seems to persist when I connect both the magic mouse and wired mouse at the same time, and it disappears whenever I disconnect the wired mouse. Has anyone else had this problem before? Is there an (easy) fix for it? System specs: iMac 27-Inch (Mid-2010) CPU: I5-760 RAM: 8GB DDR3 / 1067MHz GPU: Radeon HD 5750 OS: MacOS 10.13.6 (High Sierra)