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Hello guys, please help me, I’m running out of ideas, I’m a first time builder, my pc specs ryzen 5 2600 b450 aorus elite v2 rtx 2060 super evga 600 watts 1tb hdd 128ssd 2x8 16gb ram I was currently studying because I have exam, my pc suddenly blue screen its says irl not less or equal, I was frutrated these days that my pc is having blue screen, I try many things before my pc wont like boot: updating gpu drivers, windows updated, checking malwares, checking memtest86, windows diagnostic tool, checking disk, scanning, trouble shoot, using command prompt of bcsedit/ set {default} bootmenupolicy legacy because I have tons of bsod randomly with different error of stop code but I got fix them, except for the last one IRL NOT LESS OR EQUAL, So I was reallly frustrated, because all of my hardwares are new, and then I tried to find a solution again wether Im not sure my bios is updated it says f51 so 2019 bios outdates so I try to look for the gigabyte site and downloded the latest version f52 then I tried windows bios update at launch app of gigabyte, after that bios update it was smooth I was scrolling and scanning then I also check for my nvidia driver and scanning for what could be incompatability of my gpu drivers, ita says I need java, so I downloaded the java, then less than a hour my pc got bsod of IRL not less or equal the restarted so IT BEGINS THE VGA LED IS OPEN, No display, my fans are spinning, my ram is functioning, my aio is also functiioning, the keyboard, the mouse, except the screen which it says no signal I tried: removing cmos battery Reseating gpu, and puting gpu at the sencond pcie slot so far that was the only things thay I have done please help me this was my first computer I worked hard for this, by my own money, Im no expert in tech things, I’m but trying I’m medical professional worker, (nurse) and this pc was gift for myself hardwork for helping patient with Covid, please I help me I dont know what to do, I don’t have any money to buy new peripherals, this a newly built pc what is the solution, like reassemble the pc parts? thank you
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Hello I posted incorrect link yesterday. Will not attempt to 'link', will just post plain text of the motherboard i have to choose from. My main concern is having clearance for either a Cryorig r1 ultimate, or a noctura d15 140mm fan. Also while being able to have plenty of vram/bandwitdth etc to fully overclock a 9700k(i pretending its a 'gold lottery ticket' instead of a 'trash lottery' that i keep hearing about with silicon. Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO WIFI LGA 1151, which is currently 189 plus shipping i belive. MSI MPG Z390 Gaming Edge AC LGA1151, which is currently 170$ atm with free shipping i belive. Gigabyte Z390 AORUS Elite (Intel LGA1151, which is 170$ as well with free shipping. Please say if there are better choices for overclocking a 9700k to 4.9-5.1ghz. This is my first 9k cpu setup. had a 4790 before. I would like to stay hopefully below 200$ oin the motherboard, but if there are safer options with better stability for 250+ fps gaming, I would consider spending more. thank you
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I have an Asus Strix Z270E with onboard Qualcomm Wifi adapter. The wifi works on startup and then crashes after a few minutes and appears to bring windows settings along with it for the crash. Settings usually returns but wifi is down until a restart is preformed. Only change to the system was a physical move to a new home. It worked perfectly before this with centurylink vs now having Xfinity routers. I have run multiple drive format and windows reinstalls (both partial reinstall/repair and a full system wipe). I've tried disabling the device and re-enabling, installed different drivers found on another forum. Nothing seems to be working. Any help to get this rig working again is greatly appreciated!
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Hello, I wanted to build my first PC and I was thinking of getting an rtx 3070 with the a new amd processor, but I don't know which motherboard I should use, my budget is around 1000 to 1200, I was thinking of maybe getting an Gigabyte B550 AORUS Elite for 150 dollars or a MSI B550M PRO-VDH for 100, I don't know much about motherboards but I would want to know which would fit better.
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Hey, everyone! I'm really confused on what RAM to choose for this combination... Ideally, I'd like to get a DDR4-3600CL16 2x16GB kit. Crucial Ballistix is currently sold out EVERYWHERE in my location... Now I'm more focused on G.Skill, but the QVLs for those are really weird - the kits in Asus' QVL don't have the motherboard in their respective QVLs as far as I can see... So is there something in the QVLs that I've missed, or is there a reliable kit outside the QVL that you could recommend?
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The System Motherboard: ASRock B450 Pro 4 CPU: AMD Ryzen 3 3200G Video: Sapphire NITRO+ Radeon RX 580 8 GB Video Card Storage: - Windows Boot: Crucial MX500 250 GB M.2-2280 SATA Solid State Drive - Linux Boot: Western Digital Blue SN550 500 GB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive https://www.asrock.com/mb/AMD/B450M Pro4/index.asp I was trying to switch to my Linux drive this weekend (My weekends are Wed/Thurs) when I noticed my computer not going to the ASRock POST screen. I already have this issue where my Mountain Everest Max doesn't work until the OS boots which is odd but I can get another keyboard. I've been testing creating a shortcut in windows to reboot to UEFI which I thought was working. I swear it worked the first time but after that it just reboots to black and if I wait too long eventually it goes straight to Windows. I've tried spamming delete which i think is my key. I tried spamming F2, F11 and F12 which might be the key but in every case nothing happens for a much longer time than I would normally anticipate and then it goes straight to Windows login. It is true I was in the BIOS yesterday and while there looking around I changed two settings. One had to do with MBR compatiblity and I don't recall the other except to say that I checked for FastBoot and it was off and after reading on it I decided to keep it off. But at this point I have no idea why I'm not getting my POST screen. Still I have no problems resetting the entire BIOS if that fixes the issue and I'll go through and setup everything again. Just not entirely sure how to do that. Any ideas on how to do that or anything else I could try to get my system working properly would be appreciated. Cheers. See you in the morning.
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This is my first time building a computer to run Windows 11. Is there anyway I can check if my motherboard has TPM 2.0? It is the Tomahawk B660 DDR4 with WiFi
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source http://www.bit-tech.net/hardware/2014/08/29/x99-motherboard-preview-roundup/1 http://wccftech.com/gigabyte-asrock-preview-x99-ud7-wifi-x99-killer-fatal1ty-hedt-motherboards-haswelle http://wccftech.com/asrock-shows-x99-ws-motherboard-x99-hedt-motherboard-based-workstations/ http://www.anandtech.com/show/8391/asrock-shows-x99-microatx-the-x99m-killer http://www.techspot.com/news/57748-intel-reportedly-launching-haswell-e-and-x99-chipset-on-august-29th.html http://hexus.net/tech/news/mainboard/73397-haswell-e-intel-x99-chipset-launch-expected-29-august/ http://www.tomshardware.com/news/msi-x99-m.2-streaming-engine,27475.html http://hexus.net/tech/news/mainboard/73541-gigabyte-x99-motherboard-manuals-available-online/ http://www.tomshardware.com/news/asrock-x99-professional-oc-formula,27529.html http://wccftech.com/asus-x99-deluxe-highend-motherboard-unveiled-beautiful-white-black-color-scheme-5way-optimization/ http://www.tomshardware.com/news/evga-x99-haswell-e-intel-motherboard,27568.html
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I was looking to purchase a gigabyte z270-hd3p to replace my msi b250 pc mate motherboard. However upon looking at a few pictures of the board, it seems like the screw holes are in a different position from my motherboard even though both are ATX? I am just confused. I attached pictures of both boards so it makes more sense. Doesn't it seem like the Gigabyte board has the screw holes in a different spot? Specifically around the ram slots.
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Hello everyone I’m new to this forum and i know that what I’m about to say is a bit old and everything but this is very important to me because i want all my saved OS/Data as save as they can be so I’ve had my LGA 775 PC running for awhile just fine and i recently decided to upgrade it so it could be a better temporary solution until i get a gaming build and an actual modern powerful PC so i started with the RAM it’s DDR2 but it only had 2GB so i bought unbuffered RAM 2x4 RAM sticks for a total of 8GB it worked fine but then all the troubles start from the CPU upgrade unfortunately I didn’t take precautions when it came to this but anyways i bought a Modded Xeon E5450 didn’t do any bios updates or anything but it already had the sticker adapter to convert 771 socket into 775, I installed it and replaced thermal paste everything was correct but afterwards my PC just started spinning with no display then I thought to myself okay it won’t work with my board so I’ll put back the old dual core CPU in, just when i did that my PC starts for 3 seconds then shuts off never posts and keeps going like that for a loop my PC is a DC 7800p Convertible Minitower the weird part is i tried almost everything including resetting the CMOS, replacing the battery with a new one, RAM is already new and known to be working also my motherboard light turns on all fans spin, error peep codes can sometimes trigger, Power supply works as well all of this tells me that my motherboard is in fact working so why isn’t it posting? I even bought a Quad Q9300 processor which also does the same thing the only difference is when i put the Unsupported Xeon back my PC stays on but with no beep codes or display now the question is what can i do to finally get it back to work on an original LGA 775 CPU?? im lost for ideas kindly someone help thanks!
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Hello everyone i got a really interesting question and i hope someone helps regarding this so i have an hp dc7800p PC with an LGA 775 Q35 chipset on it but im having some motherboard issues and cannot post the good news is that probably my RAM/CPU/GPU are all working but the most important part for me is the hard drive it is working and in okay condition last time i used my PC but i need all the data + OS on it so the real question here is can i put everything all back together with the same case on a new motherboard with the identical old one ( ig LGA 775 ) then boot into my old drive with everything saved? I wouldn’t mind 10% of issues but i need at least 90% of the windows 10 to operate properly do not tell me to copy data over and install a fresh windows as that’s completely useless and not the point of what I’m trying to ask/do side note: it also has a patched theme and many programs installed i need it all regardless someone help and let me know as soon as possible as I’m considering this as a best solution for a faulty motherboard also this only happened recently due to a long story that i don’t need to bring up also my power supply is in working condition at 325w max thanks!
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Budget (including currency): $3300AUD Country: Australia Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Mostly games (will use ray tracing), also some coding (AI stuff, app UI, and websites mostly), plus some light video editing Other details I'm just about to build my first computer, really excited about it, I've done hours of research into every component, motherboards are just tricky. I'll be using an i5 13600kf processor with a rtx 3080 10gb gpu, a 750 watt power supply, and 32GB of ddr5-6000 CL40 ram From what I see my main choice of motherboard are between Z690 and B660 chipsets, as Z790 is more expensive for no extra benefit for me. The motherboard I'm looking to buy is the "Asus ROG STRIX B660-F GAMING WIFI ATX LGA1700 Motherboard" and from what I can see all I loose out on for picking this over a Z690 motherboard is a couple less pci-e lanes, one less m.2 slot, and no built in cpu overclocking which I don't care about, yet every similar build I see to mine uses a Z690 motherboard. Is there something I'm missing? Can people think of any reason as to why I should use a more expensive mid-range Z690 motherboard over a top-of-the-line B660 motherboard? Will it be fine at routing power to my gpu and cpu or will I be unintentionally under-volting? From what I can see I think it would be fine, but I'm not so confident to actually buy it without asking people who definitely know more than me. I can provide more build details if necessary, thanks!! (I am aware that's more ram than you would think I need) Just realised that I can also link my pc part picker list here https://au.pcpartpicker.com/list/2gXZd9, so I guess I'd also appreciate any other advice as well. I'm very interested in understanding my PC, so if you do have swaps in mind, please explain why. Thanks
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I picked up on these two motherboards because they both have rear USB-C, and were one of the cheapest that had it, but if I were to use a Ryzen 5 5700G, what would be the fundamental differences? Also, if there are cheaper cards with USB-C, I would appriciate suggestions, because I only need 2 memory lanes, and 1x M.2 slot
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The OP is found here: 2013 OP I'm fairly new to the whole "modding my computer" ball game...I am a Mac user which has its pros and cons and I find that I miss Windows at times as that was my first OS. Anyway I have an old dv1000 heirloom from my dad. It has the same poor memory, and CPU as the OP shows in 2013. So my questions are these: If I can upgrade to an Intel Pentium M 780 2.26 GHz 2 MB 533 MHz Socket 479 CPU (which is what the OP states is his preference at the very end), could I then upgrade the RAM to 4GB instead of the 2GB max capacity? Pentium M's can go up to 4GB according to some sources. But I am not sure if this specific CPU can make the computer run at 4GB RAM or if other internals will need to be modified? Also, is it worth upgrading to Windows 7 if I have XP installed? I can't remember which version I have. I lost my charger, buying a new one for this computer so I can't tell you since it's dead. But I do have a Malwarebytes subscription so that is one reason to upgrade. Thank you for your time.
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So I was wondering if the b450m ds3h rev 1.1 supports ryzen 5 5600x out of the box
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So I've been thinking about buying a pretty high end PC, and wanted to future proof it as best as I can, but after looking at Motherboards, I've realized that there aren't any that can support a PCIe 5 SSD and GPU at their full speeds. One lane (usually the GPU) will get cut to PCIe 5 x8, and I've been wondering, is this because current CPUs/Chipsets can't handle the bandwidth, or do board manufacturers not see a reason to start producing boards that powerful. Or is there another reason I'm not thinking of?
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Update: had to check my pc in the shop and it turns out that my motherboard and other components are fine, and ill buy a new psu later. Thanks to all for responding my post. Hello! What happened is that when i turned on my pc and played a game for a few minutes and then my psu spark.. and i check the psu, the capacitor, transistor is fine but i notice a burned/broken diode.. does it affect the motherboard too?? Pls help.
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Can anyone give me a list of the x570 motherboards that have a Front USB 3.1 Gen2 Type-C Header for the front panel of the case? I know asrock taichi has one but looking for others Currently building my first pc and just wanted to look at all the options before committing
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I got a Dell Optiplex 775 from the school for free because they were getting rid of them, and I wanted one. I completely tore down the system including the power supply, CPU, RAM, and the Nvidia GT 8400 gs. I put it back together outside of the case, and upgraded to four sticks of 2GB DDR2 RAM, but the cooling solution was a hard drive mounted fan that blew through a heat spreader, but I couldn't use that method outside of the case. It totally works, and it is the system I am writing this from, but I just have the hard drive fan blowing onto the CPU full blast. I want a better cooling solution, but the mounting holes in the motherboard for a CPU cooler are way off from a standard LGA 775 socket, and I know this is something that dell does, but I want to know if there is a way I could get a better CPU cooler for it without getting a motherboard that costs similar to a modern one, and doesn't even have the four slots of DDR2 that I would need for the RAM. I am hoping to build another system this summer and not have to worry about this vacuum cleaner next to me, so its not that important to me, but it may help someone else.
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Hiya, I am looking for a motherboard for my 5600x, and have whittled it down to these two. I prefer the Strix B550-A for its looks, but the Steel legend has more features (Post Code, Front panel USB C header, etc). I am planning on doing some overclocking as well. What are your thoughts? Price is about the same, and I really don't know which one to get. Thanks for any help.
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I’ve been trying to find which one is the best, but If I searched them up, there are not a lot of webpages that say about, but if there are they just say each motherboard features but don’t compare them. Also please tell me if there are any differences in vrms.Thanks
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I'm an IT student at a trade school (and I am graduating just as the pandemic stabs the economy, FML), and one thing has made me curious ever since we covered motherboard form factors. Specifically, how the form factor that was supposed to replace the venerable ATX family of form factors, BTX, was killed almost as soon as it was released. So I was wondering why that is. I grant you, the extent of my knowledge of the form factor is that the RAM slots were oriented to be parallel with the Expansion slots, and so they wouldn't be in the way of the airflow over the CPU and its cooler. And that's it. As far as I know, there wasn't - or shouldn't - be any other differences between the two standards. So I guess that's my real question: Why hasn't ATX adopted the one major physical difference between the two form factors, especially for the Enthusiast (and perhaps Research) market where cooling is so vital to performance that some are even willing to de-lid their CPUs in order to mod the chip for maximum cooling. ...Is there a place we can make requests for Tech Quickie episodes?
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After doing not much research, it will become obvious to you that a large number of early X99 Gigabyte motherboards had some faulty bios versions, resulting in boot loops. My setup's boot loop used to happen every 25 seconds or so but now it is every 3-4 seconds if left alone. (CPU pins and motherboard socket seem perfectly fine to me) Setup I am trying to get working: i7-5820k Gigabyte X99-SLI Corsair Vengeance LPX 4x4GB 24000mHz [I have also been testing with a 2x8GB 3000mHz version] GTX 780 (definitely works) Kingston SSDNow V300 120GB SSD (definitely works) Corsair RM1000 PSU (definitely works) [I have also been testing with a ~2012 OCZ 700W unit] I have tried the following, none of which post (no display output, at least): - Booting with/without RAM - Booting with different amounts of RAM (1-4 DIMMs) - Booting with different RAM kits (different frequencies and capacities) (note: I am prioritising the manual's recommend slot if only 1 is to be used) - Booting with/without secondary storage attached (have only tried SATA) - Booting with/without a graphics card - Booting with different power supplies - Booting with/without anything in the USB ports - Booting after clearing the CMOS (holding screwdriver between pins) - Booting after removing the CMOS battery for 10 minutes - Booting after trying a CMOS battery from a different, working motherboard I have recently been attempting BIOS updates: When updating to BIOS version F24c (latest, released 2018/06/15), here is my method: 1. Remove all RAM DIMMs 2. Downloaded latest BIOS on another machine 3. Put just the BIOS file on a FAT32 flash drive (I have also tried placing all three files) 4. Renaming the BIOS file to GIGABYTE.BIN (I have also tried not renaming it) 5. Putting the flash drive into the machine and turning the power on 6. The machine then does one of its 3-4 second boot loop restarts and then realises a flash drive is in, resulting in an orange light turning on. - This is the only way the machine remains powered on 7. The orange light then flashes, as does the light on the flash drive. 8. I leave this until the lights become solid and do not flash. 9. I then turn off the machine, install 1 RAM DIMM and power on. 10. This does not result in any display output. To recreate the conditions of the tutorial I followed for this, I have also tried the above method with the F20 BIOS (released 2016/01/12). Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Tom