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Where Am I Getting It From?: I'm sure there are many more places over seas where you an get modding supplies but in the UK we are limited to websites like Kustompcs.co.uk and Overclockers.co.uk. These sites offer great ready built mods and a wide selection of coolers, heat sinks and fans but lack things like velcro reels, screws, nuts and wood glue. So I'm getting all of the stuff for this build, barring the MDF, from eBay. I have finished the list of items I need and added some that I want, like the NZXT Sentry. Here is a link to my eBay collection: http://www.ebay.co.uk/cln/luk_bris/Smokey-Attempts-PC-In-A-Drawer/165712357013:. Whats Next? Planing to do more of these little updates leading up to this weekend when I will post the results of the red mod. Follow my other blog, Smokey Attempts: The Red Mod, for more updates on the GPU modding. Thank you :)
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Stripped Naked 290x ;) (no human nudity here you dirty beggars)
Smokey77 posted a blog entry in Smokey Attempts: The Red Mod
What Did I Do?: To prep the 290x for VRAM, VRM and Processor cooling, I stripped it down. This is an MSI reference PCB card. It came with a stock cooler but unfortunately I cannot show you the removal of the cooler as it's already done but OC3D have a Corsair HG10 review where you can see it step by step. So, moving on, Here are some images of the nude card. Note I have also removed the PCIe cover because this card is being used in my current custom case. You can see the progress of this build in my other blog "Smokey Attempts: PC In A Drawer". I am also storing this card in it's original anti-static packaging, so don't worry to much about that one. Thank You :) -
What Is The Red Mod?: The Corsair HG10 and NZXT's Kraken G10 are two examples of Mounting solutions for GPUs that don't require you to cable tie it together. Another important thing to note is that these solutions have built in VRM and VRAM cooling. Whereas the red mod is much more "bodged". It basically lets you fix an AIO to a GPU with cable ties as tension screws. Geil make VRM coolers for the 290 and 290x but I can't say for other cards as I've not looked into it. VRAM coolers are so easy to find it's not worth listing them. Why Even Bother?: Because I can really, I would like to think it's to; reduce noise, reduce temperature, allow for aggressive overclocking or to look bad ass but really... I just want to try it. Which is why I am open about my lack of experience. I'd like anyone with some experience to add input. Whats Next?: I am working on a sister blog to this one, "Smokey Attempts: PC In A Drawer" in case you are interested, so updates may not be daily. Though I will pop in and look at comments each day I can. Next, I will be going through some, pre-VRM cooling, mounting tests that failed and succeeded. Thank You :)
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i need some advice on Custom painting My Drop Shift Mechanical Keyboard Anodized Aluminum (Gray, Barebones iv got two cam of spray paint for Anodized Aluminum an steel from Montana Cans a matte black an a blood orange , my question is can i apply straight on to the grey metal an do about 3 coats or do i or should i do a base coat or white first ? this is my desired color scheme concept https://imgur.com/a/o6EfjKO correct me if im wrong but thers a removable frame over the switch inserts that is screwed on from behind va four screws that can be removed so i could spray that frame interdependently from the main an cover the switch inserts with painters tape an painters tape around the side led strip like crown molding so as to do the front an back cleanly my two spray paints for prep an coloring are Montana Ultra Wide 750ml as final coat (at least 3) Montana Black Spray Paint-9100 Snow White as prep . base coat
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So I managed to acquire quite a unique case similar to the one Linus built in the sleeper series called hubert. So the plan is to upgrade this case so that I can use it for eSports events up and down the UK whilst keeping the retro / sleeper look. I am currently half way through the project. A new front panel setup has been installed replacing the old USB and FireWire ports for 4 USB 3.0 gen 1 ports. Also had all new barrels fitted so the old locking mechanism works again. But the main focus of this project is to rebuild the front plate of the case to hold a triple radiator configuration with enough vent holes to cover cooling the hardware. Cutting out part of the front plate was a pain but doable with an angle grinder. To ensure that there is enough strength, I have used 1mm thick steel plating to reinforce the .5mm thick steel of the original plate. Was a pain to fit and secure correctly but is now ready to mark out the new fan positions then drill them out. The only things left to do is save up enough to get some killer hardware in there and give the inside a fresh coat of paint. Just need a name to suit it!
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i need some help with finding specs on the hyte y40 case i cant find a spec listed for the 120mm fan/rad bottom spot for combined size limit , whats the max thickness for a rad with fan ? id be ok cutting the shroud frame cover to accommodate a flush mount.
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i just got in the mail my Geometric Future M8 Lohan White an plan to spray paint with some new colors, id like your thoughts on color modding my case these are some mocks ignore the case gear ill be using different aio , mobo , fans , gpu an layout these are the mocks an the symbols are a Klingon for kortar i personally like all of them so any ver that gets the most votes ill do.
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There are no position marks that I can find that indicate which direction the ratchet switch is set. I obviously see the little arrows that are on the switch but they're not really positioned in relation to anything on the handle except for maybe its general geometry. I don't really like that I have to try to click the switch to know which direction its set and I'd prefer to be able to look at it and know. Has anyone else done something like maybe paint a little center line on theirs with masking tape and a paint marker or engraving a small center line with a heated knife? If so how'd that go? Is the orange ring in between the body and the switch free-floating or is it in some way locked to the position of the handle, because I think that ring would probably be the best place to put such a mark, though properly masking that off would be a pain. Do you think I'd be better off getting into the habit of always putting it back to locked when I put it down? I dunno, maybe I'm just nitpicking at this point.
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for ref my current gear an desired gear current old an target finished gear (mb bios updated an ready) im currently prepping to go from a 120mm aio to full custom water for my old first build iv got a 5800x on order to replace my older 2600x that has served my well but i now need more out of my older rig an i know the 5800x getting way hotter then the 2600x which with my arctic freezer II 120mm never broke 54c under load oc'ed at 4.3ghz in a 72deg room for the 5800x i know ill need more an aside from my cpu iv upgraded my from a gigabyte 1660 super oc wind-force x3 to a power color fighter 6700xt an hope that ill get close to the same cooling i got with the last gpu which as you'll see i pix this layout is what worked best for the aio an gpu , iv got the rear an fronts as intake an the tops as exhaust an the case fans on custom bios fan curve set to ramp as system temp rises an the aio in push an ramp as needed , in the past the aio was in the rear in pull the only diff between then an now is my rear mobo heat-sinks run cooler by an avg 7deg both idle/load an the gpu idle/load is 4deg higher , if i could mod the psu shroud into a ramp for the bottom front fan to scoop/direct air flow i would, but not sure how an what id use to do that with ? aside from that mod im currently trying to decide what rad & rez to get as iv got limited space from both an dont want to change layout for fans or gpu , iv got fittings , tubing , cpu block , pump an coolant so any good advice for doing this will help my current considered picks for rad & rez are with mods this id use this 50mm version of this air duct on the rear to aide cooling the rear bridge https://www.etsy.com/listing/1119238671/120mm-vrm-cooling-duct-120mm-fan-size?sts=1&variation0=2319052234 an move the top front 140mm closer to the rear to help fit a https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-airplex-radical-4-120-aluminum-fins-33702.html in place of the current aio an rig as pull over push with a 2nd 50mm right angle duct aimed up to not have rad heat blown across the mobo an use this rez https://www.performance-pcs.com/water-cooling/reservoirs/bitspower-water-tank-z-multi-200-acrylic-version-bp-wtzm200ac-cl.html does this rad an rez combo seem like it could adequately cooler a 5800x possibly oc'ed to 4 to 4.3ghz to near same temps as the 120 arctic did from the 2600x heres another view but with older gpu
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i need advice on modding a ASRock DESKMEET X300 Mini PC Barebone for use as a nas / giga-switch / vm build my plan is to add a AMD Ryzen 5 5600G 64gb of ram SK Hynix Gold P31 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive for main os an vm's 2 x Seagate BarraCuda 5TB Hard Drive HDD – 2.5 Inch (ST5000LM000) to mount internal for raid back up of most vatial data of the external 20gb QNAP QXG-2G4T-I225 Quad-Port 2.5 GbE Network Expansion Card 1 x Yottamaster Aluminum Alloy 5 Bay 2.5/3.5 inch USB3.1 Type C External Hard Drive Enclosure SABRENT USB Type-C to Dual 3.5” SATA and RAID Docking Station DS-2BCR with 2 x Seagate IronWolf Pro 10TB (ST10000NE000) upgrade psu to sfx an cables add 120mm aio vi external modding something like this 1. whats the psu form factor an size , as id like to replace with a fully modular gold efficient psu an custom cables by cablemods. 2. does anyone have any tear-down pix of the inside ? 3. does this take full size ddr4 ram 4. has anyone run truenas core or scale 5. does the mobo support a 5600g out-of-the-box with out firmware update 6. can i install a pci multi port Ethernet card an run truenas with router os in a vm an config some of the ports as vlan's an leave the others as just normal lan ports, is this something i can do vi router os an from a vm in truenas https://www.newegg.com/asrock-deskmeet-x300w-b-bb-box-us/p/N82E16856158083
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Hello Guys, I bought an i7 6700k to replace the 6400 in my computer. It's a Fujitsu Esprimo D556. So now I have a couple questions... I would like to be able to control the cpu fan with some kind of software, but i couldn't find any. \ Also, to reach higher clock speeds, will I need to flash a custom BIOS, or is there some other way to use the i7's full potential? Kind Regards Kili20
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and here I am with another mod coming soon, I can tell you that the main sponsor is sharkoon who generously sent me this material here the stuff! CASE REV200 sharkoon ATX https://it.sharkoon.com/product/28160 PSU SHARK SILENT STORM COOL ZERO 650W https://it.sharkoon.com/product/SilStorCool0 SHARKBLADE STRIPS RGB https://it.sharkoon.com/product/26883 TASTIERA GAMING SKILLER MECH SGK3 red https://it.sharkoon.com/product/SKILLER MECH SGK3 MOUSE GAMING SKILLER SGM2 https://it.sharkoon.com/product/21536 CUFFIE GAMING SKILLER SGH3 https://it.sharkoon.com/product/20713 VENTOLE RGB SHARKOON SHARKBLADE RGB https://it.sharkoon.com/product/26876 I am waiting for other material that I will post soon I can say that it will be an AMD mod ... there will be fun
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im wondering if intel xeon l5420 can work on msi p35 neo, i know the socket is 771 but i will mod it to fit
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I am looking for a webcam but I am really big on aesthetics and I don't like the current crop of bland, utilitarian webcam designs on the market. The Apple iSight camera is far too old and terrible in resolution to be a viable option but I am looking for a solution that has a similar minimalist design language. I happened to remember that Yves Behar designed a beautiful indoor security camera called the Hive View and my question to the community is as follows: "Is it possible to flash the Hive View Security Camera software and turn it into a webcam? Any thoughts and advice would be greatly appreciated.
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I enjoy playing F1 2019 with mods, be it Texture mods to update the car liveries, or performance / sound mods, like changing the engine note from the boring V6 to a sexy V10. The obvious problem here is that I can't play multiplayer because the game cannot verify the correct files. This meant earlier, I had to move all my custom mod stuff out of the game directory and re-validate the files and restore the original files to play multiplayer. Is it possible to have 2 different versions of the game boot through steam, one being an unmodded, vanilla experience for me to play Online, and the other being my modded pack to play Career mode. If it is possible, how would i go about doing such a thing, in terms of first, making steam recognise the two separate "games", and secondly, having the two separate game directories. In my head, it sounds like its possible, I just can't work out how to do it without upsetting steam
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I’ve been working on a new custom loop recently and I’ve been wanting to try to one of heatkillers or aqua computers water block. Currently I have an ek vector block that’s specifically made for my 2080ti model, but I’d really like to try something else. In my previous loop I also had a custom 1080ti from evga, but the only way I was able to get a full coverage water block on it was by using a titan pascall block by removing the fan header on tne card for it to fit. Does anyone know if a similar mod could be done on my 2080ti to make it compatible with other blocks like the ones I mentioned before? If the ek vector is the only one I can use then that’s fine.
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Hi guys, I’ve been planning to build my second computer for a couple months now and was trying to find tutorials on how to model a PC build using Blender, SolidWorks, or any other software, as I’m planning on building a dark purple-pink themed “outer space” theme build (similar to Nebula, Jayztwocents’ personal build). I've got a parts list in mind but was hoping I could create a mock-up before actually buying any parts to see how things turned out, and make any necessary modifications. If anyone knows where I can find some videos, forums, or other information, or even have parts suggestions to match my theme that would we awesome. Thanks
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next mod coming soon I could not miss this new project another adventure begins. sincere thanks to my sponsors ASROCK, INNO3D, CRUCIAL, SEASONIC, EKWB, HARDWIRE, COOLERMASTER, PC HUNTER [video=youtube_share;_gRrue2iNC4]https://youtu.be/_gRrue2iNC4[/video] [video=youtube_share;o9gH77uRodA]https://youtu.be/o9gH77uRodA[/video] configurazione motherboard asrock Z390M PRO 4 cpu intel core I7 9700KF gpu inno3d geforce rtx 2080 super twin x2 oc cooling EKWB custom loop crucial memory ballistix max 32 gb kit crucial memory ssdmx500 x2 crucial memory M2 1TB P1 psu seasonic prime PX850W cable mod hardwire addictional fan coolermaster 200 MF R RGB[/align][/align]
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Thermaltake S100 simple case mod So as a disclaimer right up front, i'm not a professional when it comes to PC case modding etc. but i recently really enjoy doing it and finding solutions for making things a bit more unique. with that said the mod i came up with here is rather simple and was born out of the need to repurpose the Thermatake S100 wich is actually meant to be used as an led/rgb cover for your RAM slots. the need to repurpose it came up because i didn't really account for how massive my Be Quiet Dark Rock 4 CPU cooler actually is and how much Space it takes up over the RAM slots before ordering the S100 (stoopid me) My curret case is the Be Quiet Silent Base 801 which has great base functionality and a design i love so i'm planning on further modding it in the future. Thermaltake S100 on Amazon Step #1: removing the the original "calmping/mounting" mechanism with a pair of side cutters which was fairly simple because the plastic is quite soft so there is not much force required to remove it. Step #2: removing the 4 screws on the back of the S100 and opening it up because i was going to mount it to the the HDD Slot covers that come included with my Be Quiet SB801. Step #3: lining up the backplate of the S100 to the position on the front of the HDD slot cover i wanted it to be in and using a very small screwdriver to poke through the scerwholes in the backplate to get the correct position for drilling the mounting wholes in the HDD cover. i ended up only doing 2 wholes to help with alingment because i was going to hot glue it on there anyway. Step #4: drilling the wholes for the tiny screws from the backplate of the S100 and screwing them in, to help with aligning everything. then i applied a fair amount of hot glue to the backplate of the S100 and carefully putting the HDD slot cover on top while evenly applying a good amount fo pressure for about 20 seconds so the hot glue had time to dry. and that is about it, i didnt' really aim for perfection here. you could go ahead an sand the edges of the cut off parts to make it more smooth but the thing is that you can't really see them when everything is mounted inside the case later on so i didn't really care about it that much. Here are some pics of the finished product! (i ended up making a second one because really liked the look and wanted to have a second one in my case) Step #5: finishing everything up by reinstalling the HDD covers to my case and doing some cable management. So thats it! i really like the look and making this little mod. hope you guys like it too and maybe it inspires you to repurpose something like i did. I'm really looking forward to making more case mods in the future. Let me know what you think! Cheers
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I recently bought a five pack of upHere RGB fans that come with a controller that connect all the fans to a central hub. The connector on the fans is some 6 pin non-standard proprietary connector and the fan speed is not controllable via the remote. Would it be possible to split this connector into a PWM connector and a RBG connector? Is it possible to detect which cables take care of RPM control and the other fucntions of each wire independently or are only positive and ground up for testing for? PS - I know they have a version of the same set with PWM control but its been out of stock on Amazon for some time. I can provide a picture of the connector if needed but for now heres how the fans look
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Hi all I'm building my new home, and am looking at connecting my pc in my study to my TV in my living room. I'm planning on doing this by using optical USB and HDMI and routing them through the ceiling and walls, so I can pc game. The optical HDMI will plug into the TV from the PC, and the optical USB cable will plug into a powered hub for controllers and my lapboard. Has anyone else had experience with a setup like this? And to be clear, I know that a Shield TV is an option, but I can't take advantage of gsync on my LG OLED using that method. Hence this plan USB https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=16377 HDMI https://www.avaustralia.com.au/ruipro-8k-60hz-48gbps-hdmi-fibre-optic-cable-1-50m/
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Hi Guys. I am planing to do a build inside the 900d case, but since i dont want to see the back or the bottom i want to do a Motherboard tray (not sure if this is the right word) and a plate to cover the bottom. I never did something like this before and would be happy to have some tips for beginners:) First of all I dont know what material I should use. I thought about 3mm Aluminium and paint it black (and btw: any ideas what paint to use?). Any other suggestions? Then the other big problem: I want to have the pump in the bottom so I need to go through the aluminium plate with my tubing and I cant find any fittings for this. Are there some special fittings for this kind of stuff? And if anyone has made something like this and has some designs laying around please upload a picture:) Sincerely MasterR8
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Hey guys! Some time has passed since I posted in these parts of the internets since I mostly hang out in swedish forums such as SweClockers.com. After spending some time here in the last few days though I can definately tell that I've been missing out. Such amazing and interesting builds and so much inspiration all over. Enough blabbering, I came here to tell you about my new project: BLUE FRACTALS by BMAWN INTRODUCTION Hailing from a cramped apartment of a hard-working soon to be 23-year old I am going to do my best to bring you my most ambitious custom build yet. Some of you might've seen my previous project; Dark Knightmare. This build let me in the championship class of the Dreamhack Casemod Championship and allowed me to share the stage of some of (in my opinion) the best modders in the nordic region. ABOUT THE PROJECT Blue Fractals will be a different build in a number of ways. Firstly I am going to build in a mITX case for the first time, the case of choice is the Fractal Design Nano S which will be modded to fit an mATX board. Fully watercooled with a GTX1080 and a 7700K I am excited to create a small computer which definately packs a punch. Some panels of the case will be replaced with either acrylic panels or tempered glass panels, depending on availability and implementation possibilities. Even though I want to use the latter its probably going to be the former, but we'll see. The GPU will be horizontally mounted. Lately I've seen a lot of build implementing this, I've had my GPU mounted like this in my daily driver inside a Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Glass and I see no reason not to implement it into the next build since it looks awesome. This time around I'll be making my own custom cables with sleeving, although I am getting all of the stuff needed from Icemodz.com. After using glass tubing in Dark Knightmare I'm happy to return to PETG tubing this time around, although using glass was a learning experience I appreciate the flexibility and versatility of PETG. Something special for this build is that I am going to control the lighting in the case via a microcontroller. The microcontroller in question will be an Arduino Nano and the LEDs will be the Adafruit DotStar APA102 LED strips. This will allow me to control the lighting howewer I want and choose, and it will also force me to learn how to work with and program the Arduino. With no earlier experience with microcontrollers I am excited to see how it turns out. A bonus feature will be the ability to control the lighting via WiFi or bluetooth, depending on whatever I can get to work. This is a summary of some of the things I am aiming to achieve with this project, but some things might change throughout the course of the build. HARDWARE Fractal Design Define Nano S ASUS STRIX Z270G GAMING Intel Core i7 7700K 4,2GHz EVGA Geforce GTX1080 Founders Edition Corsair SF600 600W G.Skill Trident Z Series DDR4-3200MHz CL16 32 GB Samsung SSD M.2 EVO 500GB Samsung SSD EVO 250GB Arduino Nano V3.0 ATMEGA328 ESP8266 WIFI transceiver Adafruit DotStar APA102- 60 LEDs COOLING Black Ice Nemesis Radiator GTS 240 Black Ice Nemesis Radiator GTS 280 Phanteks Glacier C350i CPU Block - Intel LGA1151 PHANTEKS Glacier GTX 1080/1070 FE Watercooler - Acryl, RGB - Black 2xProlimatech Ultra Sleek Vortex 120mm 2xCorsair ML140 PRO PrimoChill CTR SFF Phase II High Flow D5 Enabled Reservoir System PrimoChill Enhanced D5 Liquid Cooling 12V Pump PWM PrimoChill 1/2in. OD Rigid PETG Tube - 8 x 36in Clear PrimoChill 1/2in. Rigid RevolverSX Series Fitting 12 pack - Sky blue After this wall of text-introduction I still hope I kept your interest all the way through, and if you had the energy to read through my rambling I applaud you. Critisism is appreciated and encouraged, whether if its about my photos or the way I choose to write this project log I want to hear it. Other than that, I am absolutely excited to get started on this project and I can't wait to see the end result. That's all for now, until next update! // Oskar
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Hello everyone and welcome to Project Evo worklog! First of all a quick presentation, my name is Alberto and I'm from Portugal! Was you can see on the topic title this project is in Case Mod World Series contest, Cooler Master propose me to mod a Master Case 5 for the contest and offcourse I accpeted it. The project is already in a good phase since I started it in Febuary. Well I dont intend to win anything to be honest I do this as a hobby and I dont have a big bugget to add WC system and all that fancy stuff, but I got to start with something so hope you guys like this project So speaking about the idea, basicly I'm on the Tower Mod category and like previous years I notice most tower projects never leave the "Box" concept, and for a "scracther builder" being stuck on the "box" is a bit strange so I started to think outside the "box" ( ), to be honest I really needed to think that way because was I said I cant afford all the fancy WC's system most "box" projects have, so finding a new design as really challenging since the Master Case 5 was been already so modded. So basicly the idea was finding a new way to look at the Master Case 5. So Idea found () and Project Evo born, lets see how things are going! #1 Video Images Concept evolution: Work evolution: Actual State Best Regards Tankian The Man