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So I plan on making my own custom sleeve job and it's going to be custom length right down to the wire (no pun intended). My question is does either gauge make the job easier? make the psu run more stable? or just give better bends?

Hello guys! We've developed a back lit backplate for GPUs, but they currently only fit the Titan Series (the backplates have thermal pads for the RAM on the back). The LEDs will be connected either to the motherboard or the the Geforce Experience mini-molex on the reference cards for direct LED control. Both air cooling and waterblocks will be supported, as well as multiple LED colors and prints on the backplate. So now to the giveaway part - you guys would need to provide the PCB sizes for the GTX 970 and up, both custom made and reference ones; - a "flat scan of the PCB" along with dimensions and/or a sketch with dimensions would be perfect. We'll be picking out one lucky "helper" for each GPU and sending them a backplate once they are build Below 2 render mockups of what they will look like.

Hello everybody I am going to be doing some very extreme mods to the Phanteks Enthoo Evlov. This is for a build with very clean aestetics and my mods will reflect it. I will also be getting a custom paint job done, a grey on the outer panels (In 2pack paint which is what cars are painted with)and black on the inner ones(powder coated). All of the mods will be very strong as they are all going to be made out of steel or aluminium and welded to the case. These case mods are going to cost about $2,000 in materials, labour because I am not able to do all of these case mods myself and paint. Here are the case mods that I have started planing. Front internal panel The plan is to mount a 360mm alpha cool radiator on the front panel as marked above. This will mean that these tabs need to be cut off and a piece of aluminium/steel welded to the flat surface. This is the front panel dust filter and it will need to be expanded to allow for the 360 radiator to breath. Here are the push pins that are currently holding the front fan filter to the front panel they will need to be replaced and relocated because they are in the path of where the radiator sits. Front panel Exterior Front Panel has a hole that needs to be filled it is 3mm aluminium. It needs to be flush with the outside surface. Side/back panel exterior panel More holes to be filled Rear panel I need to make a cover panel to cover the area shown here and needs to be welded to the back panel. Here is a quick one I made up out of acrylic to show you what I meant. Top internal panel This panel feels abit thin and weak even when it was in case with rad and fans attached needs some reinforcements to strengthen. Weld a sheet to the back of this panel with the needed cut outs. Mid section Weld a cover plat to this cover panel. it's just to cover up for neatness just to clean up the aesthetics. Motherboard tray Cover panel to cover the motherboard tray next to the motherboard with small space or cut outs for GPU and 24 pin cables, This part may need to be extended somehow to reach the inner front panel because of previous mods to the front panel. Side panel with window This is just a simple window expatiation so you can see the whole inside. Just what is in the planing for now I will keep you all posted, loved reading all your coments.

Hi Can I please have your opinion on my build and any suggestions you have. Thanks http://au.pcpartpicker.com/p/YbkYZL CPU: AMD FX-8350 4.0GHz 8-Core Processor Motherboard: MSI 970 GAMING ATX AM3+ Motherboard Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory Storage: Crucial M500 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive Storage: Western Digital AV-GP 2TB 3.5" 5400RPM Internal Hard Drive Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 960 4GB Video Card Case: NZXT Phantom 530 (Red) ATX Full Tower Case Power Supply: Corsair CX 430W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply Optical Drive: LG GH24NS90 DVD/CD Writer Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter Fan Controller: NZXT SENTRY 3 Fan Controller Other: NZXT - HUE Total: $1437.97

So i just bought a used pair or Sony MDR-ZX750BN's and the ear cups are a glossy plastic. I hate glossy finishes and want to change it to a matte finish. I want to know if instead of going for the brushed look with steel wool or sand paper if there is a spray paint or something like that, that just does a clear coat of a matte finish and if it will work on the plastic or if it won't bond well or if there are any other alternatives, thanks in advance.

Hey world! Recently I have been planning out a mod for my pc and case. I have decided to go with a hot pink/ gun metal grey theme because I think that is quite rare and I like to be unique I will be painting: - Motherboard heatsinks - Ram heatsinks - Plastic fan rings (Corsair AF140) - Perhaps certain areas of the side panels These are the items I will be painting Hot pink. I was wondering if http://www.homebase.co.uk/en/homebaseuk/rust-oleum-hot-pink---mode-spray-paint---400ml-125010 would be any good to withstand these conditions. I will be using Plasti-Dip for the gun metal grey, but I am not sure if the Rust Oleum can withstand these tempuratures. Thanks! Max

Hei there fellow watermen. i was interested in trying something ive read some attempts about but still am unsure if would work. i whant to mod a h110 gt to run two radiators. and i i have a few questions in mind. Has anyone tryed it? did it work? is it har to re fill after i connect the secound rad? does it brake warrenty? what pipe and nipple sizes should i go for? and so on. how would i get excess air out of the rads and pump? and is the h110 pump at all, strong anough for 2 rads? i was looking at the EKWB RAD XTX 360 as for the secound radiator. using it as excoust in the top. and the 280mm h110 rad as front intake. what more is there to think about before i go about ordering the things i need for it? did i miss any vital points? thx -toby

Okay strait to the point, from my understanding I see no difference between the 240 and 540 cases part from that 540 has an 2 bay slots and 240 haven't. So, to save money and to buy fans (Be Quiet!) would I be able to cut out the slots on the 240 case series? I would later cover the whore case with white and black Carbon Vinyl, do you think that would work? Please tell me your opinions guys. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-CC-9011070-WW-Carbide-Windowed-Airflow/dp/B00LA6Y5XQ/ref=pd_sim_sbs_147_10?ie=UTF8&refRID=0KZ5EXABYY7MJ7H3DNWW Or is there any different way that I could connect optical drive to the case?

The plan was to just take everything out and put system in it (maybe watercooled because why not) replace the glass screen in the front with a thin monitor, use the turning knobs for fan control, the antenna (if there is one) for WiFi if possible etc... Do you guys have any other ideas? If you want I'll keep you updated on the building process ASAP. Post Scriptum: I like the one in the picture a lot, does anyone know what model it is exactly? That'd be great.

Hi, let's just say I like giving my stuffs a dankable touch. I want to do some modding that would involve most of the right side panel being cut and replaced by a very special idea. Will the S get me going and even for my future businesses? Another case I had in mind was the storm stryker, bet that one's a bit more pricey. Should I get it? I still feel like it's a bit too dry(and for that I would get a drawing on the front panel) and small. Welp.

Hello guys, i have a problem with GTA Online. A while ago i installed ScripHookV for singleplayer and i found it to be quite fun, so a few days ago i tried to do some more moding (i'm very new to the Glorious PC Gaming Master Race ) this time i installed the no water mod, i used OpenIV to replace the water.xml file, and everytime i swiched betwen single- and multiplayer i replaced that file, but suddenly with the correct water.xml file i logged into GTA Online, and it said "you have been banned from Grand Theft Auto Online, return to Grand Theft Auto V" and went into singleplayer were it said that i was unbanned again the 3rd of October. That made me wonder if there is a way for me to check that i am running the vanilla version? Because i really don't wan't to be banned a second time. Thanks in advance. BTW i'm running the non-steam version.

Original Article from goldfries.com : http://www.goldfries.com/hardware-reviews/cooler-master-mastercase-5-pro-5-modular-desktop-casing-review/ ----------------------------------- The MasterCase 5 and MasterCase Pro 5, the world’s first mid-sized modular towers with exterior expandability were first announced during Computex 2015 and the design drew quite some excitement. If you're a subscriber to my Youtube Channel, you probably have seen my coverage of the MasterCase 5 booth at Computex 2015. Here's the video if you haven't watch it. Cooler Master treated us attendees with a special session, to let us understand better the concept behind MasterCase 5. To put it simple, Cooler Master is going back to its roots and with that comes the tagline "Make It Yours". More details at the http://www.coolermaster.com/computex/mastercase/ So what's the MasterCase 5 like? Here's a walk-through, courtesy of Cooler Master. To sum it up, the Pro 5 variant gives you additional drive bays, fan, and a radiator bracket at the top. With the introduction done, let's have a look at the product. Starting from the top, the MasterCase 5 comes with a distinct angled front panel. The MasterCase 5's top comes with 2 handles and between the handle likes a removable panel that you are able to mount 120mm and 140mm fans. If someday you wish to upgrade to a closed-loop water cooling system then there's the Top Cover kit that comes with a mesh panel and a radiator bracket. Feel free to use one without the other, they're not dependent on one another. For those opting for The MasterCase Pro 5, the Top-cover kit is part of the package. The front cover is removable and you're able to add additional fans, up to a total of 3 fans as an additional fan bracket is provided in the accessory kit, that fan bracket is to be used on the 5.25" drive bays at the top. From the rear the Master Case 5 is no different from other casings, one thing to note is that it does not come with any cut-out for water cooling tubes. The fan mount with adjustable positioning supports both 120mm and 140mm fan. At the bottom is the PSU mount that comes with a mounting bracket. I encountered a slight hiccup when I mounted the PSU on the bracket and attempted to secure it to the case. After meddling with the installation for a few minutes, I finally figured out the problem was that the padding to support the PSU was very thick, thus leading to the imbalance that makes it near impossible to secure the screw. I figured out a workaround and that is to place the PSU into the casing WITHOUT mounting it on the plate. After that I secured the plate to chassis and finally, secure the PSU to the plate. As you can see, that quite defeats the purpose of the mounting plate. One thing I hope Cooler Master improves on is the nature of the mounting plate - the screws are so short it could barely secure the plate properly. Should the ridges of the screw be damaged, there's no way for the plate to be secure. At the bottom the MasterCase 5 comes with 4 reasonably long rubber feet for secure footing. Now for the interior - the MasterCase 5 is spacious, the interior is split into 2 areas and that's one for the key components while the lower section is for the PSU, cable management and additional drive bays. Rubber grommets are found on every cutout. Here's the upper corner, it comes with a 140mm fan pre-installed and the cut-out is huge. There's also sufficient room between the board and the top of the casing and that helps a lot when it comes to cable management. Towards the front of the interior are the drive cages, they are removable. Drive bays are also available at panel just above the PSU. At the back there's ample space for hiding cables. The cables from the front panel are neatly tied to the casing structure as seen in this photo. Here's what the interior looks like with a full-sized ATX board and the PSU in place. A view from the back for those interested, notice how the large cutout underneath the motherboard works great for practically any CPU socket location. We're coming to the end of the article and I think some of you might be concerned by the lack of window for the side-panel - Don't worry, the windowed side panel is available as an accessory. For those opting for The MasterCase Pro 5, the windowed side-panel is part of the package. What this means is that you modify the side panel and other components as much as you want - tired of the theme? Get a new side-panel and make it something else. The frame of the MasterCase 5 is such that it has minimal holes around, I've no avenue to place LED strips on the top and front panel area unless I punch some holes. User Experience The USER EXPERIENCE segment is often not part of my casing reviews but I feel like I can't end this casing review without it. You see, Cooler Master's theme for the Master Case 5 is "Make It Yours" and they promoted MODULAR SYSTEM and it would be a shame if I didn't experience that myself, after all I grew up with Cooler Master and have been a Cooler Master user for almost 20 years now and seeing how they mentioned "Going back to their roots" - well, I'd like to experience what I experienced back then. I still have my Centurion 2 casing, back then I didn't have much skills nor resource to modify it but I still spent a fair bit to hire a friend to cut that casing to it could have a fan on top and a side panel with 2x 120mm fans. Moving forward to 2015 - I decided to MAKE IT MINE with the Master Case components Cooler Master sent to me and here's the final outcome. It was a rewarding experience, I'm not an expert case modder myself but I am very happy with the results. The modular system of MasterCase 5 made it a lot easier for me to get the paint job done. The content is spacious that I've enough room to place lights and have custom made the GPU cover and also a base-plate for the system. Notice that the side panel is huge but bottom area of the side panel window is covered so you need not show the ugly side of the system. System Specs Processor : AMD FX-9590 Motherboard : ASRock Fatal1ty 990FX Killer RAM : AVEXIR Core Series DDR3 2x4GB RED Graphic Card : PowerColor R9 390 8GB PSU : Cooler Master V750 Cooler : Cooler Master Nepton 240M running 2x JetFlo 120mm White LED fan. SSD : Intel SSD 330 180GB Extender Cables : UnequalTech The Verdict Cooler Master MasterCase 5 retails at RM 479 (approx 120 USD) while the MasterCase Pro 5 at RM 599 (approx 150 USD). Both casings are great but I think the MasterCase Pro 5 would be a more attractive option if you intend to perform some case mod on it. Regardless which model you choose, they're both great for modding. I made the MasterCase Pro 5 mine, you should consider making one yours too! Short of funds? You could always settle for the MasterCase 5 first and upgrade with the available accessories much later. Side Window Kit : $24.99 Top Cover Kit : $16.99 3.5” HDD Bracket 3-Bay : $14.99 3.5” HDD Bracket 2-Bay : $12.99 2.5” SSD Bracket : $4.99 *Above price is in USD.

i was thinking about doing some case mods to my corsair 760t gaming pc but i cant think of anything to do but i really want to make it my own. im going for a red and black themed build,im getting red leds for the inside and want to make a stand off for the top panel so the fans get air. if you have any ideas please comment and ill keep you up to date

I haven't found a good tutorial on how to paint regular old green PCB ram on LTT forums, the cheapest ddr4 is really expensive so I went heat spreader less ram. How do you paint it?

I need to remove my motherboard heatsinks so that I can mod them to match the color scheme of my build, I just can't figure out how to get the damn things off. They're the pushpin spring style of motherboard heatsinks and I don't know how to go about removing them.

Hey guys! I just purchased an EVGA 980TI that I can't wait to use. I'm buildng a white/red themed PC, and I want to paint the plastic cover of the ACX cooler white to match the rest of my build. I already picked up some white Plasti-dip and I'm in the process of disassembling the card and removing the plastic cover so that I can paint it by itself without worrying about taping/covering every nook and cranny of the entire graphics card. The problem I'm running into is that the plastic cover seems to be held onto the rest of the ACX cooler by a screw that is behind the "EVGA 980TI" LED strip. In a few other EVGA graphics card teardown videos, it appears that the LED strip might be held on by a strong adhesive. I couldn't find any teardown videos of this particular graphics card, and I don't want to pry it off to find that I've destroyed the fancy $670 graphics card that I just bought. Can anyone confirm that the LED strip is held on by an adhesive? And if so, can you talk about how you removed and replaced it? I just need to get it off so that I can unscrew the final screw holding the rest of the plastic cover in place. Any help/insights you can give would be very appreciated!

Hi guys. So now i am about to build my new gaming pc. At first i had my eyes on the nzxt h440 razer edit because it was in the beautiful black finish. But now i want a white case to match the rest of my room. It is no problem find white parts to the build, but i am very confused about what case i should use. I have been thinking about a lot of different cases like the corsair graphite 380t, corsair carbide air 240 and the 540 as well. Also the nzxt h440 in white and even the corsair graphite 760t. I really want this pc to look clean with cable management and so. Which white case do you prefer? Please write it down below as well as some pictures of your white setups.

I was looking for some white led lighting to match the corsair carbide air 540 white and was wondering, if i could just use these http://www.coolerkit.dk/shop/revoltec-kold-katode-2546p.html or maybe just go with this http://www.coolerkit.dk/shop/nzxt-sleeved-led-1999p.html, but i think it would look really nice with the cathodes. Please comment with pictures of your setups, using cold cathodes.

I'm new(ish) to skyrim modding, been a LONG time since I last tried it. Anyway, I have a BIG list and it dawned on me that installing each and every one of them manually is just TOO tedious, so its either steam workshop or the NMM/MO. Now this is the dumb question: Will I stand a risk of getting banned for using a third party mod manager? I know that millions of people use it, and have been using it since skyrim released but my parabnoia has gotten the best of me. Is using a third party mod manager against their TOS somehow? It IS third party software that tampers with the game files. Thanks, and sorry for the dumb question

So as we all know the "exhaust" side of fans (the side with the wires and frame to hold the motor) is not the prettiest of things. Does anyone here have any cool ideas on how to hide that side? I am trying to get some Airflow fans mounted as intakes in my case, but can't bring myself to letting anyone see not so pretty side (Corsair 760T's window is both a blessing and a curse). The best solution I have found at this point is to mod them with an anodized sheet metal cover, to try and make the side look more appealing and hide the wire, but this is expensive as heck! Especially when you are building a case with 10 or 12 of em. My wallet weeps from my horrible decisions.

So, i am about to build my new pc when i got this great idea. Buying the nzxt h440 with all the cool green razer stuff and fitting it with msi z170a gaming pro with an rgb led stripe. I will make it white as well as my watercooling (nzxt kraken x61) witch also has rgb led. And then buy white hyperx ram and a white led stripe from nzxt. How do you think that will look? I have a lot of white in my room. Walls and my desk as well. What do you guys think, will it be too much or just awesome ?

Hello fellow Windows users and tweak geeks of the LTT forums! I have spent the time since I upgraded to Windows 10 from 7 tweaking, modding and overall trying to make my windows exactly how I want it. A Unique and personalized operating system is, as I'm sure many of you will agree, something that is truly special and I would like to share the codeplex repository I have created to share the tweaks I have built for Windows 10 with you all. Anybody who would like to host any of their tweaks or tools on this repository, please message me as I would be more than happy to share anybody's (safe) tweaks with the world. Enjoy! https://windows10tweaksanddebloat.codeplex.com/ The Windows 10 Tweaking and Debloating project The goal of this project is to put all of the Windows 10 tweaks and tools in one place, as well as to provide an access platform for all the current and up-to-date debloating tools for Windows 10. This, in theory, will make it easier for all members of the windows community to come together and access, for free and without hassle, any tweaks or tools they may need to make their windows experience truly how they want it. Currently only tweaks written by me exist however I hope that in future the Windows 10 community will reach out to me and allow me to put their projects on this page. RULES: *No malware/spyware/rats etc. *Nothing that would disrupt the freedom of the user DISCLOSURE (please read) I hold no accountability for anything that may happen to your system on use of these tools, they are unofficial tweaks and, therefore are making changes Microsoft have not ordinarily allowed the user to make in the GUI itself. Therefore take into account the risk factor involved in this before using any of these tools. I would HIGHLY suggest creating a system backup point before using any of these tweaks and backing up any personal data. Edit #1 Added a reg tweak to change the system tray clock and calender If you would like to visit the reddit post I first made about my project please visit: https://www.reddit.com/r/Windows10/comments/3ffn9j/windows_10_tweaks_and_debloating_tools_codeplex/ [yes I know I copy and pasted it over...shhh it's our little secret ] Thank you for taking the time to read this, I hope that my project has made yours, or someone you know's Windows 10 experience better! regards, - Dragoon

Hi everyone, I am thinking of a small business idea, and I have been doing some research and found out that no one is doing flat packed desks which house a full gaming pc/server with Speakers, water cooling support etc, besides DIY modders. The only company I have found that used to do it was Red Harbinger with there 'cross desk ' and they only shipped within the US instead of internationally. Unfortunately they have ceased production of it and it leaves the market wide open. Does anyone think there could be a potential for something like this? Its similar to what Parvum Systems do with there products. i.e flat-packed computer cases would love some feedback on this

So I just need help finding a longer power cable to turn off and on my computer. I'm making a custom on/off switch to put on my desk but the one that came with my computer doesn't reach to the top of my desk. I've been looking for a while now and still can't find anything longer than 20 inches. If you guys find anything just link it, Thanks. This is what i'm looking for but longer. http://www.amazon.com/Version-Coin-Replacement-Computer-Motherboard/dp/B00J8QIUJK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1433021766&sr=1-3&keywords=pc+power+button

Hi, I have had a green/black NZXT H440 for a few months now and have noticed some scuffing of the matte black finish caused by my chair. To get rid of this, I thought about using Plasti-dip to paint the matte black parts of my case. Will this stop my chair scuffing the case and can you recommend a product I can use. Thanks