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1. This is my first post on these forums. (Yay!) 2. I'm also on pcpartpicker. (Same name) 3. https://pcpartpicker.com/b/LHtJ7P 4. I want to mod my s340. I was thinking about cutting some shapes into the front panel, unscrewing the metal from the plastic, putting a thin cloth material in between and screwing it back together. I was thinking this could help improve airflow a bit and just look better. Also, I wanted to paint my pci covers and the tips of some thumbscrews. I already know I should: 1. Measure multiple times and make sure it's right 2. Put masking tape or something over the surface I'm cutting. 3. Have a sketch of the front panel. 4. Sand what I'm painting. The reason I came here is because I want to know if there is anything else I should know before doing this. Help would be appreciated for my first mod on my first build.
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Hello everyone, Was wondering if anyone here has ever done a fan swap on a PSU? My TX750 PSU has a loud (possibly) Yate-Loon 140mm fan inside it and it's pretty loud. It wouldn't bother me if I was air cooling but since I've gone to water the two loudest items in my case is the pump (will probably swap to one of the new EK pump holders later this year) and my PSU! In the grand scheme of things, how much CFM do I need roughly to keep a PSU cool? I have my eyes on either noctua or be quiet fans as they seem to be under 20dB and move around 60CFM, would that be a decent amount of air or is that far too low? Thanks in advance!
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Hello! Allow me to tell you a bit about myself, my name is Chase I'm in high school, I primarily play RTS and Flight sims last year I built my first computer and I'm currently studying what I can about 3D printing in preparation to try to design and build a 3D printed flight-stick, what does that have to do with you??? I... Honestly don't know, but what I do know is that I could use some help with my idea for a 3D printable HOTAS Here is what I need (ill mark this out or add to it as I get the info and help I need) If someone with a HOTAS system could provide me with the measurements that I've outlined in the lines at the bottom, then that will allow me to scale my design the match what's commonly in use (as many different makes and models would be best for averaging purposes) Ive included a sketch of my general design and would like some suggestions on how I could improve the ergonomics and streamline it for 3D printing (I'll be getting some clay in a little while to model it by hand (unfortunately I'm no good at cad so clay for me) I intend to get my 3D printer at the beginning of next year and am still deciding which to buy (I'm still deciding which to buy, however, as I'm trying to find a part-time job so ill have some cash to spend on stuff like this I'm trying to keep the price down to less than 500 (preferably less than 300) so I can get plenty of filament and any other parts I end up needing. Lastly, any advice about 3D printing filaments and methods is welcome I'm doing what research I can but balancing school, getting the necessary hours to get my license and the fact that Christmas is just around the corner does not help things [1] the measurements that I need are as follows The length of the flight-sticks grip (from the connection to the base to just under the trigger) The circumference of the grip at its thickest and thinnest points The travel distance and width of your throttle as well as how many buttons are on it PS. if anyone knows a way to calculate the strength of a printed part besides trial and error, then please link me as that would be useful when designing the base PSS. I'll check back as often as I can but I might have periods of a day or two where I'm just to busy or don't want to deal with the world so you might not hear from me. Thank-you for your time and help. ~Chase Flight stick design sketch attached. Update 01# I found some time today to work on the design for the base and here is what I came up with, the questions I had about them and the problems that I could foresee when building each. I stared with around ten ideas (four gimbal designs a couple ball in socket designs and some impractical designs I came up with for fun) here are the two that made the most sense. Idea 02: This was the simplest of my gimbal designs and the most practical. (Thumbnail 2) Idea: 04: the two "ball in socket" designs ended up being more or less identical except this one used a hollow shaft(and my drawing was cleaner ). (Thumbnail 3) Okay so pros and cons, well lets break this down one at a time shall we? the pros of the gimbal design are as follows: 1. Its easy to print and build, all of the parts in this design are either strait horizontal or vertical which should help with the printing process as well as allow some room for error when putting everything together. 2. the fact that it uses multiple springs allows me to customize the pressure required to pull the stick in each direction (for instance id like it to require less pressure to roll then pitch). Cons: 1. Strength, although I'm sure that with the right materials the actual the hub will withstand plenty of wear and tear the parts that connect the bolts to the balancing springs might wear down over time and break off. 2. Size, now I know they say size doesn't matter but in this case it does this is going to be a sim-desk setup so the stick should be as unintrusive as possible and to keep the construction at a reasonable strength I think that it might end up being bigger then I want. Now for the ball in socket Pros: 1. strong, my local hardware store sells "ball in socket" connectors that I could modify to work the same way as my design, the upside of this being that I don't have to worry about a breakage occurring in the axis assembly, although I will nee to figure out how to attach it to A 3D printed base (I think an epoxy should work) Cons: 1. Tracking, I have a few ideas in how I can track the gimbal style if axis but with my admittedly limited knowledge of servos and electronics I'm afraid that I've drawn a stop as far as this design is concerned. any input or criticism of the designs is welcome, also if anyone has any ideas on how to track the ball in socket style axis pleas let me know. On a side note I've dropped this on the Tek Syndicate forum and was looking at dropping it on the Robert Space Industries forum aswell (a friend mentioned that there is a guy on there working on a similar project) anyone have any suggestions as-to where else I should drop it? . . . Update 2# Okay so its been a while since I made an update and in all honesty between the short vacation my family took and the sickness, I caught while we where away I haven't had as much time as I would like to work on the project however I've reached A point where It seems prudent to make an update for you all so here it is So what have I managed to accomplish in the month or so since my last update? Well, I ended up both simplifying and expanding my project, how you ask? Well, allow me to explain what my original goal was: Stick: so the goal for the stick was simple: a primary and secondary trigger, hat-switch and a thumb button for bombs/Rockets Throttle: so the throttle was supposed to be the simple part of this equation, it was supposed to have maybe one or two buttons and plug into the base of the sick So, what have I changed? Well to start off with I've decided to add rudder pedals simplify the design of the stick and add more buttons to the throttle Why add ruder pedals you may ask? Cuzz yaw control mate! The reason I decided to simplify the stick is that I wanted to add a wrist rest for long sessions and didn't like how my current design looked with it tacked on. As for the throttle my original plan was to use a "pot" in the grip and a rocker to control rudder, I still might do that but for now I'm just going to go with a separate rudder unit and a simple throttle. Ok, time for a brief explanation of what I had originally and what I've done to improve each part Pedals: We'll start off with the pedals as they are the newest addition to our little group After a lot of searching and failed ideas (I'm halfway through a package of printer paper) I ended up tossing an email at the good man over at SlawDevice and he gave me permission to copy the design for his centering mechanism (THIS design, not his new one) ill be using a slightly altered version of it for my design. Although I haven't had time to do much more than sketches I did manage to stop by my local hobby shop and pick up two things, one being several sheets of foam-board and the other was a pack of potentiometers. Now that I have a general idea of the size and durability of what I'll be working with I used some of the foam I picked up to put together a simple testing platform to find out things like "how many degrees should it travel" and "how wide should it be?". During my testing I found that a distance of around 380mm between the center of each pedal with the pedals sitting parallel at a distance of about 6-8 inches from my chair (my chair sits at a height of 19 inches) was more or less perfect for me, however when my brother tried out my test rig he didn't find it comfortable till the distance between the pedals was 475 with a slight angle so that his toe was facing outward and the were pedal cockeyed so that the inside edge was higher then the outside edge, we also moved the pedals back by about 4 inches. (hes a 6-foot something or another mammoth) So, what does this mean for me? well it means that either ill have to put the pedals on some-kind of gimbal to allow you to adjust the angle or just leave them parallel and call it good enough. Stick: Aside from deciding to simplify the stick Ive also tried to take into account the fact the Ill be playing primarily sim battles in war thunder and IL-2, which means long sessions. So this means ill want function rather then form, (Yeah an angular stick will look nice but my current design doesn't have a wrist rest and due to the gaps between the plates wont be that comfortable for hour+ sessions of game-play) so what do I intend to do to improve on the stick? well ill be adding some-kind of wrist rest and either go for a 109 style grip with simple lines and no frills or switch to a floor mounted setup and use a yolk similar to the spitfire or early Russian fighters from WW2. Throttle: after spending around an two hours looking at and sketching out different designs I came down to one question, what do I want my throttle to do? well I want it to be desk mountable have buttons or switches for flaps, gears, engine ignition and shutdown aswell as couple extra just incase I decide I want to bind anything else. So how many buttons and switches do I want/need? well my intention is to attempt to use a pair of LeoBodnar BU0836A (one for throttle and the other for stick and pedals) so after subtracting the inputs taken up by the "pot" Ill have 28 available inputs for buttons and for my uses I think four toggles and 6-8 buttons should work nicely. Well folks, that's all Ive got for now. Starting the 21st I've got a pretty busy schedule (three birthdays, Halloween, and a bunch of family stuff) so you might not get another update until December when things usually start to slow down a bit before Christmas. Until next time Chase~ . . . Hiatus Just a quick update for you guys, I unfortunately have to call for a hiatus until further notice, I intend to continue working on the project, however, some IRL things came to a head quicker than expected and I don't know when i'll be able to devote the time that this project deserves. So sorry. Chase~
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- simulators
- flight sticks
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I want to know if theres a place in Melbourne that can solder the shunt resistors on my gpus to unlock the nvidia power limit. I cant really do it myself as I'm very much of the down syndrome when it comes to soldering Anyone know of a joint in Melbourne (preferably in the south-eastern suburbs) thatd be up for this kind of work?
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Hi guys. I have finally found the parts for my very first gaming pc, and now i think i want to try some custom watercooling. The case is a Corsair 760t in white, i have a nzxt hue with white led and all of the other parts is white as well. The shop i am using for the watercooling is coolerkit.dk - they are the best in Denmark. They have a ready to run kit (http://www.coolerkit.dk/shop/alphacool-nexxxos-cool-3545p.html) and i was wondering if i could put some white leds and maybe get som white fluid as well. Will it even be possible for me to build and maintain this? I have the courage, but i dont know if it is too tricky for a "noob" to handle. Please help me guys
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Here's my Story: I was Playing TES V: Skyrim on my mid end PC when my older brother saw me and (Curious as he was) wanted to play on his Laptop. I tried explaining to him that it's impossible because he it was not a Gaming Laptop and thus does not have any Dedicated Graphics Card installed except for the Intel HD Graphics, but he keeps on forcing me to install it saying he once played Civilization V in it. (Funny cause I was the one who installed Civ on it too.) So long story Short, he's playing Skyrim at 30-40FPS at Low Settings with less than a dozen Mods running. You should have seen the look of my face when the Intro started. PS. Is it just me or does TES V: Skyrim uses more system RAM rather than GPU RAM?
- 13 replies
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- intel
- lowest settings
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fx-6300 vs intel i3 for 90% gaming, 5% 9gagging, 5% video editing and game modding(light) i need help, i am currently deciding on my cpu, i am looking at the FX-6300 and the i3. i need something that will fit what i need (as the title said). i like photoshopping for fun, and video editing. for small presentations (also for fun), but will mostly game on it most of the time. i need upgradeability, that will require only changing the cpu. if i pick the fx, i'll match it with an MSI 970 gaming motherboard. i am restricted for the budget on my cpu. i will be playing Dota 2, BF4, nba 2k, GTA V,assassins creed games. i think i will be trying to play any new games( but not a priority) any suggestions?
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Alright so i know that most people use spray paint for their pc modding and i will be too but for the detailed designs i wanted something more along the lines of paint and a paint brush. But not knowing to much about paint i cant seem to find the right kind that would work as well as spray paint and would be usable with a brush. Acrylic paints don't seem to work from what i have read and with ny own testing they proved to scratch off very easy though i tried it without sanding and priming the case so that could have something to do with it as well. So basically what kind of paint will work for me? Thanks a lot guys!
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If anyone has Left 4 Dead 2, Team Fortress 2, Terraria, Rift, Path of Exile, or any other games and is interested in multiplayer let me know. I'm a bit of a modder, soooo yeah. MDT/MST (UTC-7:00)
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- l4d2
- left 4 dead 2
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So next month I'm doing some more work on my custom case/pc to add more lighting and change the general colour scheme to black/white/grey and silver. I'm also planning on buying a mechanical keyboard with white backlighting so I thought why not do my mouse as well? There was room to hide one led on each side pointing backwards and to tuck the wiring away as well. The wiring is just 2 led's and 1 resistor tucked inside the mouse getting power straight off the usb cable. You can see the wires leaving the inside together with the big red cable for the thumbbuttons. Link to mouse pics: http://imgur.com/a/ELr08 Link to case pics: http://imgur.com/a/JtPYd
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So the power button on my Droid Turbo broke :blush: . It was in my pocket and I ran full force into a table(I was blindfolded, its a long story). The power button stopped working there was no tactile feedback and pressing it did nothing. The phone worked normally otherwise. I disassembled my phone and saw that the solder for the power switch was broken. The switch was completely disconnected from the contacts, and was laying inside my phone. I've looked at software solutions and am using the gravity screen app, but I'm a hardware guy looking for a hardware solution. I've started to dream up mods where I could create/attach a new power button to the back or side of my phone case. I'm good at soldering and I would rather try this before sending it off the be repaired. I know it's crazy but anything is possible. :blink: How feasible is this? Has anyone else done this? Any recommendations for the button if I choose to go through with it? All constructive feedback is appreciated. Thanks!
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hello anyone know of any good bitfenix ghost mods also i have a couple of question, regarding modding, that need answering; 1. what is the best paint for computers (metal and plastic) 2. what is the best paint for fans (plastic) 3. what is the best tool for cutting windows in side panels with sound proof foam on them 4. what is the best way to make a rear I/O led light thingy 5. what is the best material for a window glass or plexy or plastic 6. what are the best led strip lighting to use 7. what are the best single leds to use, to re place power and hdd led lights in the front panel. 8. what is the best material to make a PSU cover thanks in advance for any answers
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Hey guys, So over the last couple of days ive been trying out breaking point for arma 3 and im honestly not as thrilled as i thought i was gonna be. I just really like the clothing options and customization thats in SA but I want to play on an updated engine that isnt so buggy. Is there a dayz mod for arma 3 that you can play on chernarus and is pretty much like SA? Thanks
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First I would like to make the disclaimer: I AM AWARE THERE IS A GENERAL GUIDE PINNED, just I want feedback directly from multiple people. Today I finally got my first *real* Android phone, LG-D821 (Google Nexus 5) with 32GB of storage currently running Android 4.4.4 KitKat I am a noob when it comes to rooting (or any advanced Android task), so I have come here to seek help. My main concern is I am VERY worried about bricking the phone while in the process of rooting. I would like some advice on rooting but mainly I want to know is rooting even worth the risk? As I am under 18, replacing a $370 phone isn't a option at all If I were to brick it. Also if you plan to give me advice, I do not need to backup anything on the phone as I just got it today and I haven't even hooked a google account to it. I plan to use this tutorial as well: www(dot)youtube.com/watch?v=OeIAWTiinL8 and I want to ask is there anything else I really need to know outside of the tutorial?
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Hey Guys! I am picking my parts for my monstruous new pc and i have a problem. I really want to buy the NZXT Noctis 450 but my whole setup will be black and orange. I want the black/red noctis but it has red LED's on the NZXT logo and red underlights. I want to replace them both by orange or RGB interchangeable LED's and get some orange or RGB lighting on the inside of the case. Please give me tips or link me a good looking Mid or Full tower that is full black or black and orange with a good sized window under 180$. My PC components (they fit on a Mid Tower): -Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor -MSI X99S SLI Plus ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard -Crucial Ballistix Sport 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory -OCZ ARC 100 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive x2 -XFX Radeon R9 295X2 8GB Core Edition Video Card -Rosewill 1050W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply - Possibly a NZXT HUE for lighting (Not Sure if it is worth it) - If you think i need water cooling for my CPU or Graphics Card or even a custom water cooling system (leaning towards this option) please recommend me a good setup or kit (orange, RGB or black lighting too) Peripherals Setup: -Asus Strix 7.1 or DSP -Logitech G502 Proteus Core Mouse (Not Orange ) -Corsair Vengeance K70 RGB Keyboard with Red CherryMX Switches -Monitor Not Decided (If you want, link me a good one) -SteelSeries QcK Heat Orange Edition Mouse Pad Thank you for your time. Cyanogen Chloride
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Hey! Since i saw the 760t from Corsair i fell in love with it and figured i would use it for my next build. This question is targeted towards H440 and 760t owners. My upcoming build uses green and black for color scheme and, i totaly forgot that in the 760T Black , the Power and Reset button glow red cause f**k people that actually dont want black/red scheme. I was wondering is the 760t front panel easily removable aka no rivets need to be removed ? And are the PR buttons LED easily accessible ? (im not really a super mega pc modder so cable brainding and soldering and sh*t not really my area of expertise, so maybe i can disable the LED Lighting by not plugging the LED part on the MB and maybe run a Green LED Strip under the Panel or something ?) If this simple LED color shift proves to be too much of a hassle i think i would have to move to the H440 Razer Edition. Is pretty much the only other case that i like for my scheme and the price difference is minimal ( 760t black - 155€ / H440 RE - 158/165€. 760T White is like 230 in Portugal ) Oh and btw, any issues with the H440 in terms of airflow ? Thanks in advance!! Build Specs : MB: Asus Z97 Sabertooth Mark 2 CPU: i7 4790K CPU COOLER: Be Quiet! Dark Rock 3 GPU:OcUk Geforce GTX 970 "Nvidia 970 Cooler Edition" (fucking love this! https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=GX-205-OK ) RAM: 2x4GB DDR3 Kingston hyper X Fury Black PSU: EVGA Supernova 850 G2 80Plus Gold ( for future SLI ) STORAGE: 1x Kingston Fury Black 240GD SSD, 1x WD 1TB Blue HDD MONITOR: Asus VX239H LED IPS 23"
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hey guys, i was building a new pc and wanted the pc to match my other stuff realy good, and because my keyboard has green light , mouse has green light and my headset and also mousemat is green, i also wanted a black with green case, so i goed with the case i thought was the sexiest with the green and black looking and came on to the nzxt h440 black green ( i know its obvios its a awesome case ). but because the case had i window i also wanted to match the part with my green black looking lay-ouut. Than the easiest thing was that there was a grapiccard the msi gtx 970 green edition, the ram was also easy because there were so many green rams. the fans was also no problem to find. the only problem ive now is the motherboard, i wanted to overclock so goed with the z97 intel motherboard chip and yeah there is litterly no single motherboard that is green with black. so my qeustion is how can you best mod a motherboard to a green lay-out and what motherboard shall be the easiest to do with a budget of €150,- yours truly, Meme aka Maikel Timmermans BTW: sry for the bad english ;(
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Well my daughter thought it would be a great idea to stick a small screwdriver into the front mesh of my HAF 912, three times. This gave me an excuse to finally paint the mesh anyway. So after some tapping to get it straight, sanding and spraying the case is back together and looking much better.
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Hello LTT I'm looking for cheap mid tower cases so i can mod it and invert the mb any recommendations?
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- cheap case
- mid towe
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So I'm looking into making a custom PSU shroud for my Define R5. I'm trying to have a metal fabrication shop handle the initial bending and cutting, but they don't do intricate stuff, so the small cuts, grommeting, and painting is up to me. Basically I need to know if it's difficult to make precise measured cuts in aluminum sheeting with your standard Dremel. -Is there a specific attachment I should look into for cutting aluminum? For cutting, for sanding down? Rudimentary plans are below. These don't show it, but I plan to have two parallel grommeted cable holes on the right side of the top piece for GPU and motherboard stuff (Case, USB, etc..) I also want to cut out a very small nook in the top left of the "top" piece for my audio cable to route through to my mobo. I'm also open to suggestions for how to mount this thing in the case. My initial thought was to attach some 90° flat corners onto the inside bottom of the shroud, and put velcro on those and the case, but I'm not sure that'd be the best option here. *EDITED* - replaced images with final dimensions, now in good ol' inches Sorry this isn't the most specific of questions, but I'm open to any and all suggestions from anyone who's done this kind of stuff before.
- 49 replies
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- psu shroud
- shroud
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I am planning to ghetto mod my 780ti with a h80 and some VRM/VRAM heatsinks How it works out? We shall find out. The 780ti we shall be potentially sacrificing? This one For those who have this cooler may understand the need to discard it UPDATE: I mounted the cooler onto the GPU and applied the Heat sinks, images below: Front of card, Back of card, used zipties to mount the H80 to GPU Cut the excess off the zipties, Much cleaner now VRM heat sinks I had tested the card, it does POST but i cannot test the card under load because i do not have an adequate PSU at the moment to power the card. But here the low use temps:
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Hi everyone, I was thinking of making a full glass side panel, something like this: http://cdn5.thinkcomputers.org/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/DSC05716.jpg I've decided on this because the acrylic on my phantom 240 case is a little scratched, and I want something more durable that shows off the entire case interior. I'm getting the glass cut by another company, and I wanted to know if you guys have had any experience with this sort of thing. What type of glass would be best? Please keep in mind that I intend on screwing the glass into the case, so I need to be able to drill into the glass. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated, and I haven't had much experience with case modding before. Thanks in advance everyone!
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Hello, I am going to start modding my PC and i just need some ideas i can use dont get too wild with your ideas this will be one of my first times and if u guys can also think about the costs that would be great! Thanks in advance
- 23 replies
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- pc modding
- pc
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Are there many skyrim modders still around on here? If so what would peoples' thoughts be on a thread every week going into detail about the best/ most interesting skyrim mods released on a given week? My reason for wanting to start this is that while the skyrim mod community never slows down, often now there are less interesting mods, generic weapons being released, patches for existing mods, translation mods etc. I'm well aware there are a few well known skyrim mod video makers out there, so if there's no interest in a text and image based breakdown that is fair enough. Thoughts
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So in planning to get my sleeving job started soon, but I just want some opinions on the layout. pattern 1 http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/ pattern 2 http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/ pattern 3 http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/ pattern 4 http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/ pattern 5 http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/ pattern 6 http://choosemypc.net/sleeving/ Pattern 6 is just a vote for a random non-pattern