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So. Disclaimer. This is not for the weak at heart nor for the hesitant. We will do some soldering. We will do metalwork. We will disassemble a network switch. We will face a unshielded power supply (and won't die). Don't do nothing I'm describing in this post. Everything is done at your own risk. If you die, it's your own fault. Linus warns everybody all the time that power supplies can kill you. With that said, let's carry on. The objective of all of this is to get a fast network switch, ideally a 10GBASE-T with a bunch of SFP+ ports that is QUIET. And I mean, really quiet. This will for sure work for high-density network switches with 50+ POE ports, since we will replace those shitty 40mm fans with some larger fans. ~~~ Why fans in network switch are difficult ~~~ Let's do a little excursion on fans in switches. As you might have tried in the past (especially when reading this), replacing a fan in a managed 19" network switch is... complicated. If the manufacturer is using standard connectors (2, 3 or 4 pin fan connector, commonly referred to as a Molex KK connector, sometimes also called a TX3 connector), you can already feel lucky. Now you just have to figure out the pin out... and find out that switch fans are of a very different breed than their PC cousins. No PWM, no tacho, the third pin is used for... something else. Most of the time it is something called a "dead fan detection" signal, generated from a hall sensor or some other dark magic. Whatever it is, the manufacturer of the switch will decide how it works and they won't tell you. Even if you ask. So if you're trying to use the fan headers on the switch mainboard, you will most likely end up with a fan alert in your switch when you swap out the factory supplied horrible little thingies. But even if you're okay with that, you will now learn that fans used in network switch have a much lower start voltage than their PC counterparts. Actually most PC fans have very defined operating parameters (that's why people have invented PWM, to have a proper way of controlling the fan speed) and expect to be operated at 12V. You CAN somewhat operate them at lower voltages (Noctua is actually supplying resistors to lower the voltage) but nevertheless, they are expected to be operated at specific voltages. Some of them start at 7V, some of them start at 10V. Fans in network switches start at 3-4V and the firmware expects them to behave like that. So your new silent 40mm fans might not even start turning. Or will shut down after the initial power up thing. Noiseblocker-fans are known to work well, but... they only exist in 10mm width and really don't transport a lot of air. You might be very happy with a slow turning 40mm fan in your 24port 1000GBase-T switch, no POE and all that. Because there is no power consumption in there. But if you're using a high-density switch with 48+ ports and POE, there will be heat in that switch. And quite a lot of it. If you're going for 10Gbit/s, you WILL need air movement. Those things get toasty. So? No 40mm fans. So, what to do? Easy, we just dump the entire concept of network fans, drill some holes, take 12V from the main power supply and operate silent 12V fans on top of the switch. Oh. You will void your warranty with that. The switch I chose to do that with is a D-Link DXS-1210-12TC (Revision A1). Which is not new and can be had on Ebay in Europe for around 500€ if you're lucky. Most people get rid of them because they're quite loud. I like D-Link, because their user interface is not totally shitty, I don't have to fiddle around with the CLI and it does what it's supposed to do. If you're a Cisco guy, kudos, but I don't care. The first step is to open up the switch. I will not provide details for that, if you need a recipe on how to open the switch... you should not be doing this and should stop reading here. When we have the switch open in front of us, we will see that the power supply is providing an ample amount of power and all on 12V. We will steal some of that. Disconnect the plug from the power supply and the mainboard. This is rather straight forward with this model (thanks D-Link for using cables with plugs!) but don't touch coils or anything in the open power supply. Don't do this! Any of this! You will die. Don't touch wires. Ever. Okay, with the disconnected cable, cut a red and a black wire and solder another wire in between. I put a molex connector on the end of that wire, because I plan to use an adapter that I can disconnect if I want to open the switch again. It should look like this: Second step is: Drill some holes through the top cover. For the larger holes (air has to go through the top cover), I use hole punches. These are rather expensive but create nice clean holes. However: hole time. Without the holes, no continue. So, put holes in there. We then mount the fans on the top of the switch cover. This will cost us another unit in 19" measures, but if you want to do this (which you don't because you'll die and lose your warranty), just plan accordingly for the cabinet. Most of the time you might have clearance in the top slot to put some hacky stuff like this in there. Last step is creating the adaptor for connecting the outside fan connectors to the power supply within the switch. Basic soldering, watch out for polarity. If you don't know what this means, stop here. I'm using those molex connectors a lot, so I have crimp tools for creating my own wires but you can also salvage connectors from your spare modular power supply box. You know, the cables you keep to use "as spares" but never do because power supply manufacturers change pinout or whatever. Now you have a nice outside-inside connection, on the outside I'm just using the cables provided within the Noctua-boxes. Now you just have to assemble the cover back on the switch. Which is tricky with the SFP connectors. There are some trick on how to get this done, but all of them are just variants of fiddeling around. Maybe get a second switch and practice this before trying this with your new super-main-switch. If you get there, now you have a frankensteined-19"-silenced down switch. I guess I have also a video demonstrating the noise-level of this mod. switch.mp4 The Noctua NF-A8 ULN is rated by the manufacturer for 34,8m³/h, the Y.S.TECH FD124020EB is rated for 17,9m³/h. Three Noctuas, so basically three times the volume moving through that switch with very little noise. And a nice push-pull config, like on those fancy Geforce coolers. Not sure if that does something, but I like it. Thing is fine for my basement without creating too much rage from my wife.
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is the a step by step tear-down an guide for replacing the thermal pads an paste for my gpus which are the XFX Speedster SWFT210 Radeon RX 6650XT CORE Gaming Graphics Card & the XFX Speedster MERC319 Radeon RX 6750XT Black Gaming Graphics Card ? i need a guild so i can upgrade both over the stock thermal pads an paste with the Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad for the gpu chip an SWECENT Thermal Pad 1.5mm 12.8 W/mK [120x20x1.5mm] for the vrams an chokes , ive seen an heard that replacing the stock thermal pads an paste with these give on avg a 10c temp drop for idle an load temps which sounds really good.
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Here is how and why people delid CPUs in a nutshell : improving performances and temps. I was thinking documenting the process would be interesting, since I re-pasted both my 13700f and my 13900; It is relatively safe to do if you follow the guidelines. I started heating the CPU with my hot air soldering station at 200c for 2 min, but if you have a heat gun it will do the job as well; Then I pulled the lid with my deliding tool and some tweezers, do not touch it with your fingers it is hot. I removed as much soldering material as I could with a razor blade, then I applied some polish until I removed everything and I removed all silicone glue Liquid metal can be tricky to apply if you are not used to, you need to apply this on both your CPU die and lid, for un-experimented modders I would recommend not to place the syringe directly on the CPU die and put some heat resistant glue on some CPU parts to protect them because liquid metal conducts electricity, you don't want to see what happens when a CPU gets short-circuited. Then I had to glue back the lid in place. I ran different tests before/after, and I got a 4c difference which is nice; Let me know if you guys are interested by some more detailed intel about this.
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Before we start you need to look at yourself if you need to tell me that old processors aren't as fast as newer ones. I have 2 lenovo A70 systems they're old but have 4gb ram each, theyre towers with PCIE support so very modular, run cool and quiet, support windows 10 & 11(microsoft have issues) and have gigabit ethernet. There is enough here for a decent desktop experience but modern games, some productivity software and WEB BROWSERS will choke on this budget pentium cpu as well as windows 10 background tasks. The one thing I wont attempt is using old storage when basic SSDs are so cheap, the system supports sata 2 which is plenty for a responsive system. Theres a Kioxia 240gb ssd dangling in the below photo but it will be getting a 3d printed bracket. E5800 pentium performance in 2023 The system was really unresponsive with 90% or 100% cpu utilisation browsing the web. The geekbench score of 382 single core and 618 multicore nails the performance issue here. The mod Its possible to use old xeon 771 chips in core 2 duo/quad era motherboards often going from single/dual core 65nm chips to full blown 45m quad core chips that can overclock to 4ghz. The mod requires a bios patched with xeon microcodes, a taped sticker on the cpu pins and either the motherboard alignment pins cut out with a 18mm snap off knife or pre modded cpu from china. As I already own an x5460 I found premodded bios files for my system and flashed them via windows. This youtuber modded the bios, I tried to do patch myself but couldnt get the patcher to recognise a current Lenovo .rom file. Install As I was feeling traditional after dissaseembly I dropped my new cpu onto the socket pins. Using a microscope and steel soldering tweezers the one bent pin got mostly bent back. A cmos reset was required without it posted but wouldnt get to windows. Cmos reset by removing the CR2032, unplugging hdmi and mains cable then holding the power button. Cooling Its really obvious that this system needed new thermal paste on the cpu, northbridge, southbridge and gpu but I think we forget how bad modern cooling can be. Even though the system came with only a 65w pentium chip the system still came as standard with a bulky aluminium heatsink and thick modular fan and fully supports my 120w xeon cpu. The experience Using this system is night and day better its so much more responsive and doesnt get become unresponsive from windows update or anti virus scans. Browsing the internet is responsive and video playback works in HD. Booting the computer is much faster with 16.4 seconds to the windows login screen or 20 seconds to desktop. The new geekbench score with a 10.7% imrovement in single core performance thanks to the extra cache on the premium xeon and 90% improvement in multicore performance. The caveat The old geforce 8400 graphics card is lacking while its got some video accleration in the form of 'second generation PureVideo HD' for h264 which DOES improve playback in vlc, youtube uses vp9 and seems to be moving back to that from av1, while I can playback 4k30 content at 84% utilisation its not a zero impact thing like on a 12th gen system with vp9 acceleration. Alternatives The 3.16ghz xeon x5460 is about the best cpu you can expect to pickup at a reasonable price but other options like the intel 2.8ghz q9505, q9500 and q9550 or 2.66ghz q9400 share a similar used price and cache and if you're using a non oem mobo its not unreasonable to overclock those cpus to well beyond the 3.16ghz I achieved. Yes its easy to pickup better samples but its the used market and depends on your area. Lenovo_ThinkCentre A70_L-IG41M2_BIOS_MOD.zip
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Epic games is fine with modding Fortnite as long as it dosen't touch their server and since Fortnite is Unreal, Private Servers do exist here is one of the best ones that lets you play every current version of the game offline https://github.com/Lawin0129/LawinServer.
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I plan to use mini-box's openups to power a minipc and a few other electronics related to building a laptop. While i've read all documentation several times, I was wondering if anyone has experience pushing it past the 6amp nominal load rating to the 10amp peak rating. Im not unfamiliar to cooling mods and was under the assumption I would be making a custom heat sink for it, along with one for my 7940hs as its stock cooler is limited to only 90w(ships @ 65w), 120-150w being the goal for this gen and next gens peak apu.
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Hi Guys, i am interested in modding my Logitech G610 but i am not sure what parts i can pick seeing as i am pretty new to this and have never modded a keyboard before! So currently i have cherry mx reds but i want to switch to Gateron Pro Milky Yellows. Would there be any issues or can i just directly solder them to the pcb? Gateron Pro Milky Yellow Switch | Candykeys I would also like to add white LEDs. I think they should fit but please correct me if i am wrong! LED 2x3x4mm | Candykeys As for the new Keycaps i have decided go for the following set: Double-Shot PBT Cherry Profile Full Set Keycaps - Grey, White and Blue (keychron.de) In the description it mentions that there minor interferences with north facing LEDs, which i why i mentioned them above. Would that still work for me? Sorry if these are stupid questions but it's wanted to make sure that everything will work and that i don't totally destroy the keyboard!
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as an alt to my amd/truenas/pop-os server rig design would a Custom Dell Precision T5810 Workstation work an be able to power an run all this https://pcpartpicker.com/user/DEADFRED55/saved/VQCqdC or would i need to up the psu watt an if so would this https://www.365powersupply.com/product/ft7t6-825w-for-dell-precison-t5810-t7810-t7610-t7910-power-supply-d825ef-02/ work an be enough __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ 2 reason for my alternative server rig concept is 1 the pci lane diff as the e5-2650 v4 has 40 lanes vs both the 2 amd cpu's both just being 20 which i would think benefit my desired layout an 2 the amd an desired mobo max ram of 128gb an the dell's having the option of 512gb which if it can power an handle my stated an desired loadout i really want the 512gb option so i can dedicate to the main os (truenas) 128gb's & pop-os in VM 64gb's an each of the android vm's 32gb's for a total config 128+64+32+32 an between having the 2 x internal 12tb hard drives id like to run same as i would with the AMD build 2 x SABRENT USB 3.2 4 Bay 3.5" SATA Hard Drive Tray Less Docking Station (DS-SC4B each with 4 x of the same drive which id like to run the 2 x internal 12tb's & each of the DS-SC4B in raid 10 an iv heard the truenas core while running zfs needs a lot of run as in 1gb of ram per 1gb or tb of storage so with a combined total storage of 120tb or 60tb depending on how that factors when running in raid 10 i figure with truenas an the vm's an all that storage the 256gb to 512gb of ram would be helpful. so any thoughts or advice an info on all this would help.
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So I was wondering if it might be a good bet to do something like this instead of buying a new GPU, but at the same time what would the cost be and where would you even find someone who could do it for you, i've seen all the videos about the cards and read the articles and was wondering if anybody does this sort of stuff and would it be a viable choice over buying a new GPU, thanks in advance for the replies
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Hello everyone, I´m looking for the holy grail of keyboards. What does this mean? I´ll explain... I´m searching for a low-profile mechanical keyboard preferably a 100% layout hot-swap switch. I know there is stuff like the Keychron K5, but I´d like to mod my keyboard for dead silence in the office. So lubing is not the problem, but the o-rings which wouldn´t fit are. Low-profile and o-rings are not matching well, so I´d like to know if there is a really flat keyboard with full-size mx switches hot swap. I know there is the Roccat Vulcan ( I already have the tkl for private use modded) and this would be fine if those switches were hot-swappable. (I can tell you that soldering work was a pain) Does anyone have an idea what I could do or combine ? I thought about a TKL and separate numpad, but that's just the lack of opportunities. Thanks
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while i haven't been able to find a compatible full waterblock for my power color fighter 6700xt (twin fan) to bring my load temps down from a avg peak idle avg 27.5c load avg 67.7c (during the winter) in a 68deg room to avg 34.5c peak idle to avg 78.7c load (during the summer) in 72deg room with a well ventilated case 5 x 120mm noctua 3000rpm fans iv been thinking about thermal solution augments for the 6700xt such as replacing the thermal pasta with thermal pads like my cpu's [Innovation Cooling Graphite Thermal Pad] an try this on the gpu core an the ARCTIC TP-3: Premium Performance Thermal Pad on the vrms or the the arctic on both core an vrms my goal would be to at bare minimum get 8c in reduction any more like 10 - 12c an i would be even happier so id like thoughts , idea's , an advice on this an if anyone's got a step by step for this gpu's tear down so i can down it right would be much appreciated my gear loadout LITTLE YELLOW BEAST fyi if you think temps are affected negatively by this layout there actually a bit better as the old layout when the gpu was horizontal an rear aio as exhaust everything was 8c hotter at both idle an load they as cool as the are now after re-config ther no diff with 1-1/2 intake on the gpu as before but it vertical an with the rear exhaust fan freed up ther is , an the same for the cpu with front mount aio in pull config.
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HP EliteDesk 705 G4 setup & modding advice needed
johnny45 posted a topic in New Builds and Planning
does this HP EliteDesk 705 G4 Mini with Quad-Core Ryzen 5 Pro 2400GE have a uefi boot up menu for oc an other tweaks ? i want to load with pop os an might have to disable secure boot if it has it an id like to oc the cpu an tweak the voltages if possible short of just using corectrl app on the desktop if it doesn't have a uefi can i load something like core boot https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08L9NB7RD/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_4?smid=A3RUF4WM0ZIQQN -
im not sure wither or not to do the psu shroud in the same red or do it in the gold / yellow like the trim your thoughts
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i need some details an advice for these 2 used nuc's for both the lenovo ThinkCentre M93p Business Class Desktop https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PV4F3Q9/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza & Lenovo ThinkCentre M900 Tiny Desktop https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084X4JVNL/ref=ask_ql_qh_dp_hza can the cpu cooler for either be replaced with a noctua low profile , an whats the max amount an speed of ram that can be added ?
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Hello, I received a Fenda F770X as a gift. Sadly the noise is quite bad. At lower volumes it dilutes the sound and when nothing is playing it is more noticeable than my PC fans. As it is a gift and that the giver often comes around I cannot replace it - I would find it insulting and frankly I am grateful for the gift nonetheless. Can I somehow fix the noise? (by internal modding) I am willing to put the time into it... Thanks
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can i put 32gb of ram into this an what max speed , an whats the max nvme size that can be added ? Dell 99K5T OptiPlex 3050 Small Form Factor Desktop Computer, Intel Core i5-7500, 8GB DDR4, 256GB Solid State Drive, Windows 10 Pro (Renewed) https://www.amazon.com/Dell-OptiPlex-Computer-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B07CWXGWT7/?_encoding=UTF8#customerReviews an could i run a android os on this to run netflix an some other apps an if so which one ?
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will this https://www.coolermaster.com/catalog/cases/accessories/universal-vertical-gpu-holder-kit-v2-pcie-40/#specifications work as alternative vertical gpu mount for the h5 flow case as theirs cost more an is rarely in stock
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The Hyte Y60 is a proper good case, but the side panel adjacent to the vertical GPU mount is very close to the graphics card itself. For larger GPUs, it makes more sense to take off the side panel for thermals. I was wondering if anyone knows of any services that would be able to make a replacement side panel with vents for better GPU temps? Acrylic would work here, so it doesn't have to be tempered glass.
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for ref my current gear an desired gear current old an target finished gear (mb bios updated an ready) im currently prepping to go from a 120mm aio to full custom water for my old first build iv got a 5800x on order to replace my older 2600x that has served my well but i now need more out of my older rig an i know the 5800x getting way hotter then the 2600x which with my arctic freezer II 120mm never broke 54c under load oc'ed at 4.3ghz in a 72deg room for the 5800x i know ill need more an aside from my cpu iv upgraded my from a gigabyte 1660 super oc wind-force x3 to a power color fighter 6700xt an hope that ill get close to the same cooling i got with the last gpu which as you'll see i pix this layout is what worked best for the aio an gpu , iv got the rear an fronts as intake an the tops as exhaust an the case fans on custom bios fan curve set to ramp as system temp rises an the aio in push an ramp as needed , in the past the aio was in the rear in pull the only diff between then an now is my rear mobo heat-sinks run cooler by an avg 7deg both idle/load an the gpu idle/load is 4deg higher , if i could mod the psu shroud into a ramp for the bottom front fan to scoop/direct air flow i would, but not sure how an what id use to do that with ? aside from that mod im currently trying to decide what rad & rez to get as iv got limited space from both an dont want to change layout for fans or gpu , iv got fittings , tubing , cpu block , pump an coolant so any good advice for doing this will help my current considered picks for rad & rez are with mods this id use this 50mm version of this air duct on the rear to aide cooling the rear bridge https://www.etsy.com/listing/1119238671/120mm-vrm-cooling-duct-120mm-fan-size?sts=1&variation0=2319052234 an move the top front 140mm closer to the rear to help fit a https://modmymods.com/aquacomputer-airplex-radical-4-120-aluminum-fins-33702.html in place of the current aio an rig as pull over push with a 2nd 50mm right angle duct aimed up to not have rad heat blown across the mobo an use this rez https://www.performance-pcs.com/water-cooling/reservoirs/bitspower-water-tank-z-multi-200-acrylic-version-bp-wtzm200ac-cl.html does this rad an rez combo seem like it could adequately cooler a 5800x possibly oc'ed to 4 to 4.3ghz to near same temps as the 120 arctic did from the 2600x heres another view but with older gpu
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i need some help with finding specs on the hyte y40 case i cant find a spec listed for the 120mm fan/rad bottom spot for combined size limit , whats the max thickness for a rad with fan ? id be ok cutting the shroud frame cover to accommodate a flush mount.
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There are no position marks that I can find that indicate which direction the ratchet switch is set. I obviously see the little arrows that are on the switch but they're not really positioned in relation to anything on the handle except for maybe its general geometry. I don't really like that I have to try to click the switch to know which direction its set and I'd prefer to be able to look at it and know. Has anyone else done something like maybe paint a little center line on theirs with masking tape and a paint marker or engraving a small center line with a heated knife? If so how'd that go? Is the orange ring in between the body and the switch free-floating or is it in some way locked to the position of the handle, because I think that ring would probably be the best place to put such a mark, though properly masking that off would be a pain. Do you think I'd be better off getting into the habit of always putting it back to locked when I put it down? I dunno, maybe I'm just nitpicking at this point.
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i just got in the mail my Geometric Future M8 Lohan White an plan to spray paint with some new colors, id like your thoughts on color modding my case these are some mocks ignore the case gear ill be using different aio , mobo , fans , gpu an layout these are the mocks an the symbols are a Klingon for kortar i personally like all of them so any ver that gets the most votes ill do.
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i need advice on modding a ASRock DESKMEET X300 Mini PC Barebone for use as a nas / giga-switch / vm build my plan is to add a AMD Ryzen 5 5600G 64gb of ram SK Hynix Gold P31 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 3.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive for main os an vm's 2 x Seagate BarraCuda 5TB Hard Drive HDD – 2.5 Inch (ST5000LM000) to mount internal for raid back up of most vatial data of the external 20gb QNAP QXG-2G4T-I225 Quad-Port 2.5 GbE Network Expansion Card 1 x Yottamaster Aluminum Alloy 5 Bay 2.5/3.5 inch USB3.1 Type C External Hard Drive Enclosure SABRENT USB Type-C to Dual 3.5” SATA and RAID Docking Station DS-2BCR with 2 x Seagate IronWolf Pro 10TB (ST10000NE000) upgrade psu to sfx an cables add 120mm aio vi external modding something like this 1. whats the psu form factor an size , as id like to replace with a fully modular gold efficient psu an custom cables by cablemods. 2. does anyone have any tear-down pix of the inside ? 3. does this take full size ddr4 ram 4. has anyone run truenas core or scale 5. does the mobo support a 5600g out-of-the-box with out firmware update 6. can i install a pci multi port Ethernet card an run truenas with router os in a vm an config some of the ports as vlan's an leave the others as just normal lan ports, is this something i can do vi router os an from a vm in truenas https://www.newegg.com/asrock-deskmeet-x300w-b-bb-box-us/p/N82E16856158083