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Have had this Cooler master elite 430 case for my main rig for about a year give or take a few months. It was the best option for cheap at the time, but I've always felt that the window and the front panel were ugly as hell. So, I took a trip to Home Depot and picked up a few nuts and bolts along with a couple sheets of bronze/smoked acrylic and some aluminum molding. Also picked up a few handles to go on the top for carrying. As for the insides of the case I have: Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 Motherboard AMD FX-6100 Unlocked processor 8gb of Patriot DDR3-1600 RAM XFX Radeon 7850 Ghost Edition 1: Intel 530 Series 120GB SSD 1: Seagate barracuda 500GB 2.5" drive (5400 RPM, storage) 1: Western Digital Consumer 360GB (7200 RPM, storage) Thermaltake TR2 600w Power Supply Corsair Liquid Cooling I started off replacing the ugly side panel window. I didnt cut a new cut-out. It's the same exact size just not crystal or cut for a fan. This was the easiest part, fit perfectly. Next, I completely scrapped the front panel. I instead replaced it with a flat straight piece of acrylic with aluminum molding on top and bottom. I held this on with quarter inch bolts and nuts, and gave it about 1" space between the front and the actual frame for airflow. It really looks great and has a nice industrial style I was originally looking for. Lastly, the hardest part, a custom made hard-drive cage/ cover / shade / partition. It's just two sections of acrylic met at a 90 degree with another corner of aluminum. Used a hole saw to cut out the wiring hole. It's still not perfect but, it looks quite nice through the window. After the handles were placed the build was pretty much done. I'll be purchasing another 7850. As well as a 1-4tb hardrive for more storage. So it's still in progress, will upload better pictures soon.
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After reading about the IKEA mic mount DIY, I've wanted to make one for my Snowball. Is there a good mic mount for the snowball that's cheaper than the Blue shockmount?
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- ikea mic mount
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Howdy all, So - I had a customer bring in an Acer Aspire desktop with a broken power button. I unfortunately did not have a switch on hand that would work with the stock look, and the customer needed it same-day. In any case - ten minutes of scrap-heap searching and about 2 minutes of soldering later this Frankenstein looking thing was born. But hey, it's more responsive and tactile than the stock Acer switch, so who cares? As a side note - the customer said, "I don't care what it looks like, I need it cheap and I need it now", and they're very happy with the results! Hah. Would I call this a case mod? Yes. Would I call it pretty? Hell no.
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[COMPLETE] Project: ORANGE DRAGON - Fractal Design Core 1000 mod
Shank8 posted a topic in Build Logs
ORANGE DRAGON Hi! I'm a long time follower, first time poster... Orange Dragon is my first mod. I'll be modding my current system (so specs aren't super new) into a watercooled, orange and black, dragon themed build. Here's the progress so far, enjoy! All questions, comments, and suggestions are welcome SPECS: CPU: i5-3570K Motherboard: ASUS P8Z77-I Deluxe RAM: 8GB Crucial Ballistix Tactical Tracer GPU: GTX 670 Case: Fractal Design Core 1000 (Orange Dragon mod) Storage: 256gb Samsung 840 SSD PSU: Seasonic X-series 750w Cooling: Watercooled - EK water blocks - Alphacool fittings __________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ UPDATE: Project ORANGE DRAGON is now complete! I've collated the build log into five posts, and included the final shots. Enjoy! Part 1: Designing & Dremeling Part 2: Test fitting & Priming Part 3: Painting & Installing components Part 4: Watercooling Part 5: Finishing touches ORANGE DRAGON was in the minimalisticpc.com mod competition (now finished). You can view all the entrants, and see my entry here. Thanks for viewing! -
Dean Hall, the inventor and creator of the DayZ Mod for ArmA2, just released the Early Access Alpha for DayZ Standalone. Video from his channel: Steam Link: http://store.steampowered.com/app/221100 Currently 24€ / £20 Have fun!
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I got my Realforce tenkeyless a while back, but wanted to post something worth while, so I waited for my case mod to arrive in the mail. After a painful screen shot process to reduce the file size, here are the photos My Realforce 10th anniversary special edition + Digilog full aluminum case mod. Complimented by the Custom made 37cm (Austrian leather & blue embroidered) wrist rest. Whole thing has absolutely no flex what so ever, and weighs a good 2.4kg Although I put some 3M non slip pads on the bottom, the thing was not going anywhere without it anyways. Comes with 3 usb ports (all of which I covered up with black USB dust covers) and a mini usb port for the connection. I would have liked to buy the graphite version of this keyboard case to keep the original look, however it was out of stock and this silver really compliments the blue grey keycaps. Truly my favorite keyboard at the moment, and coming from a Das Ultimate Blues, I was certainly not disappointed.
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This post explains every step to replace or modify the LED, that is mounted in the socket of the powerbutton of any Fractal Design Define (R2, R3 or R4) case. If you have any questions I will gladly answer them. The reason I did this is the pointy light the illuminated plastic socket emitts which could possibly blind the user or other persons in the room. Tools you need mid-sized crosstip screwdriver small flat-headed screwdriver Before you start Power off your PC and disconnect the powercord or switch off the PSU. Step 1: Removing the front cover To remove the front cover simply pull on it. On the bottom side you will find an opening which you can use to do so. Please be carefull when removing it since the frontpanel is still connected. For easy acces to the powerbutton's socket I suggest you to now disconnect all frontpanel cables and pull the front cover off of the case itself. Step 2: Removing the USB-Connector-PCB This is necessary to later pull out the socket the LED is sitting in. To remove the USB-connector-PCB undo the two screws with the mid-sized crosstip screwdriver on both sides. Then carefully pull it back a bit and then down and out. Step 3: Removing the Socket of the Powerbutton and the LED This is a critical step due to the fragility of the plastic you are about to work with. To remove the socket undo the two screws that are fixing it into place and push it down without any tools until it stops. It will barely move a millimeter but that is enough for now. Now take your small flat-headed screwdriver. To prevent scratches during the next step I suggest you to wrap plastic tape around it before you go on. If you look carefully you will notice a small gap between the front cover and the socket. That is where you want to put your screwdriver and carefully leaver the front covers's plastic up while you push the socket down and out from above. Step 4: Removing the LED from the Socket The LED is a standart round-headed 3 mm LED with flange. It is glued in with hot-melt adhesive. To pull it out do not pull on the LED's contacts but take your screwdriver, stick it in between the socket and LED's flange and carefully leaver it out. Please take note that the actual button can be easily removed towards the top by pushing on the connector-side. Step 5: Modding or Replacing the LED When choosing your LED keep the following data in mind: Voltage: 3,3 V Diameter: 3 mm As I stated in the beginning I am bugged by the pointy light of the LED. To change that I use very fine grained sanding paper to matt the LED's surface. As you can see the light is now spread more evenly. In addition to that I also matted the powerbutton's and LED's socket. This spreads the light out more evenly over the socket's surface. Step 6: Remounting the LED The LED just slides back in. If it is too loose you should consider glueing it in. Step 7: Remounting the Socket Line the socket's front-facing fin up and slide it in until it stops. Then push the socket up using the ring around the powerbutton as a guide for its final mounting position. After that screw the two screws back in by using the crosstip screwdriver. Step 8: Remounting the USB-connector-PCB Line the USB-connectors up and slide them up until the PCB finds it's place into it's mounting frame. Then screw the two wide-headed screws on each side back in. Step 9: Remounting the front cover Pull in all cables and simply push the front cover back on. Reconnect the cables and you are done. Quite an improvement I would say.
- 35 replies
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- fractal design
- define r4
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Hi guys, I was wondering if there is a mod for Dark Souls to where I can save the game without having to log into GFWL. For reference, I've already beaten the game. I played it on my old PC on this very same GFWL account, but I never played the DLC which I would like to do now. For some reason, it won't connect to GFWL with my account, and before this, it wouldn't accept my key saying it was bound to a different account. After some research, it seems an "account" to GFWL is a PC. Because I read a thread where someone bought a new product key and used it on a PC with a new GFWL account, then signed in with his old one and it worked fine. Thus implying that the "account" that the keys are bound to are the PC's they are activated on and not the actual accounts they are activated with. Considering it's Microsoft, I can believe that. Anyway, due to me getting a new PC since then, I can't use my old product key. And I have no intention of buying something I already own again (I already own it on PS3, although without the DLC). So, is there a mod that will allow me to do this? Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Vitalius.
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[FINISHED, Check Table of Content] So, this is it. I am starting a build for my dad. I am going to put a miniITX system in a old Russian oscilloscope. My dad had found the oscilloscope somewhere and thought that it could be made as a computer. A cool computer. So yesterday I started destroying the inside of it. It was really a pain in the ass to get all those wires cut and screws out. Still hasn't finished though... We were thinking that we could mod the screen to look like steampunk style I am not so sure about the hardware side just yet but my friend is offering me an Intel i3 2100 and some ITX mobo. I think that is enough for my dad as he won't be playing so much with it. SSD is a must, because he really doesn't like waiting and noise. I think i will go with a Radeon 5450 for the graphics side as i have one laying here. What i was calculating this build is going to cost about 400 euros if nothing is changing. BTW this is from FINLAND not Russia even if the case is Remember to check other than only this page coz im not putting the updates to this first post but anyways they are all in this topic. Just scroll down Specs: CPU: Intel Core i3 2100 Motherboard: AsRock H61MV-ITX RAM: Mushkin 4gb Ram (will be upgraded to 8gb when prices go down) PSU: Some random 400w Graphics: Intel HD 2000 Case: Old Russian oscilloscope SSD: Kingston SSDNow 120gb Table of content: First stuff is in this post Motherboard arriwed: Planning how to install mobo: Psu + usb installed: Power button done: Ssd and sound card+ boot: Finished and running: Last pictures for now: Green monitor Pictures from my dads house. Finished So under here you have some pictures of the "unloading" Pictures for non signed in people (pictures are from newest to oldest for some reason in Flickr..):http://www.flickr.com/photos/106463751@N02/sets/72157638122285195/ So lets see when will I post next time.
- 110 replies
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- oscilloscope
- case
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[ALWAYS CHECK THE TABLE OF CONTENT] This is propably one of the first modded Bitfenix Ghost builds on the internet. I have used very very little funds to mod this so... This far i have done: - A window - Taken out the 5,25" bays - Made a metall plate - Changed pwr and hdd leds to blue ones - Made a aluminium Frostbite logo with leds. Credits to: Razbit for helping me. - Made another metal plate to restrict airflow from wrong places -Sleeved my PCI-e cables. Credits to: Razbit for helping me again - Made a mid-plate -Laced 6pin cables -Bought a sleeved 24pin cable -Made a BIGGER WINDOW - Painted small intake meshes - Painted the frostbite logo bolts - Painted one fan - Redone the mid-plate It is now oc'ed to 4,5ghz with only 1,15v on vCore Some of you noticing that Bitfenix ghost doesn't have a window, so why the heck would someone put lights in there. The answer is that I have made a window to it, which i will propably make bigger at some point. Table of content in order: - Moddedddddd - Frostbite -Another metal piece -Pictures -Sleeving -Mid-plate -Cable lacing -a Question for you - Sleeved 24pin - New window! - Intake mesh painted - Small paint - Painted one fan - Noctua CPU COOLER - New ssd - Some painting and aluminum Specs: Asus Z87-A Intel Core i5 4670K @ 4,5Ghz 1,15v Noctua NH-D14 Gigabyte Radeon HD7870 OC @ 1160mhz Kingston HyperX 8gb 1600mhz CL9 Samsung 840 PRO 128Gb SSD for Windows Kingston SV300 120gb for Linux WD Caviar Black 1Tb For games and programs WD Caviar Green 2Tb For videos, photos, music, and backups Chieftec Semi-modular 650w PSU Bitfenix Ghost case A newer picture Before modding except window
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Can some help me, I want to know how to make a Gmod map of my own.
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some of you might think you are limited to only what Corsair has given you. with some monkey-business, radiators and PSU lying around, this is doable and with BF pricing, pretty inexpensively. will require some cutting, moving and additional fabrication, but can be done. oh and the 360x 60 still can be mounted in the roof (needed the lighting).
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I have recently finally picked up Skyrim for the PC. I'm not a gamer than usually plays with mods and haven't really done it before. I checked out Nexus Mods and downloaded the client and the mods I wanted. I downloaded the mods and then double clicked them in the mods menu. Some of the mods I downloaded aren't showing up in the Mod Manager Mod menu but they do show up when I open the folder so they're there. I don't know whats wrong. Thanks for any help.
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- skyrim
- elderscrolls
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Hi I want to put these "5050 RGB LEDs" you can get on ebay into my computer. They require 12v, so a molex can supply that. But they say they draw 6Amps for 5 metres of LED. My power supply is a Seasonic G650 which says it can supply 56Amps on the 12v rail. My question is: if I wire the leds to the 12v rail via a molex connector, how does the amp draw work? will they draw 56Amps and then bust themselves? The other option is get a power supply/transformer from the seller which converts the wall power (240Vac to 12Vdc 6A) but they are expensive. references: The LEDs: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5M-5050-SMD-300-Leds-RGB-LED-Strip-Light-Lighting-Waterproof-IR-Controller-/261212186880?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd175a900&_uhb=1 Power Supply specs: http://www.seasonicusa.com/G-series-450-550-650.htm please and thank you
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Hi guys, So I installed all of the "Towns and Villages Enhanced" series of mods for Skyrim. Including Outskirts and such. They were beautiful, but that much stuff made my game jittery. I assume it is the game trying to keep up with so many objects and failing, or wtv. It even did it in inns. Which... confuses me. PC Specs: R9 290X i5 3570k 32GB of RAM. ... So I doubt it's a hardware problem. Anyway, I uninstalled all the "Detailed/Outskirts" type of mods and everything is fine now. No more jitters. But at the same time, default Skyrim and it's cities are very empty. Now, to my question, does anyone know of a mod that adds more detail to Skyrim, but in a more conservative fashion? Like... "Towns and Villages Enhanced" adds TONS of stuff to everything. I don't need that much. But without it, it's empty. Is there a balanced mod out there? Something that adds stuff but does so with FPS/Memory/Game Engine in mind? Any help is appreciated. Thanks, Vitalius
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Hey guys, So, I got my hands on this keyboard. If you haven't seen it, here it is. http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=90221&vpn=RZ03-00383800-R3U1&manufacture=Razer I'm a big fan of the feel, layout, and the backlight isn't bad. Any mod ideas on the backlight would also be appreciated, but not the purpose of this post. Honestly, I'm a big fan of the Evil Geniuses one that was announced. It looks pretty sweet. I have no allegiance to the team or anything, but it looks awesome. I was I could've gotten that one. I was hoping someone might be able to help me with the Battlefield 4 background. I'd like to get rid of it. I don't play that game really, and I'm not a fan of the image there either. Any paint ideas or a way to remove those kinds of print maybe? I don't know. It's on the way to my house. I'm new to the building world. Actually, it's just been a while. Getting into this kind of modding stuff. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Kevin
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I don't know what to write so I'll let me pictures do the talking. Feel free to ask, if you have any questions. Spray painted with Krylon Fusion Textured Shimmer Black. Words cannot describe how easy it was to paint with this specific spray paint. The nozzle is a lot different from the one that would be on a typical spray paint can. It literally took just one coat. Also I used a sand paper to remove the ugly green color from the LED. It lights up white now.
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- nvdiageforce
- gtx
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Hey Guys this is my first custom build idea and I need some help. I am trying to convert my N64 into a home theatre mini PC. The main problem is fitting all the parts in the restricted space the dimensions are in the Here (Wow I fail, The pic shows cm I means inches!) I know I can fit in a Raspberry PI but I wanted something slightly more powerful. For the Storage I was thinking of putting an SSD into one of the Game Cartridges that I have. So if you guys could tell me of any small mobo's that will fit that would be awesome! Also any tips on getting a PC into such a small space would be great!
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- nintendo 64
- n64
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Hey, I am looking to try to paint my case with this logo: Do you have any tips to how i shall get it done? Earlier i have spray painted using tape, but its a lot more difficult when you have such a complex picture.
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The Original: My favorite case of all time is that of the Connection Machine II (CM-2). This is a supercomputer from 1987 it takes the form of a cube 1.5 meters on a side, divided equally into eight smaller cubes. In each of these cubes you would find 16 PCB holding 32 CPU's each. And all of those CPU's had their own activity LED on the front of the case giving you this amazing matrix of flickering LED's: The LED's: Sadly my computer wont have a 4096 core CPU, so I needed to think of another way to have the LED's. I ended up going fot 64 8x8 LED matrix boards that will be controlled by 4 Arduino UNO micro controllers. The LED's will still be influenced by the PC as I will use the HDD activity pin change the LED's as randomly as possible. The Case: I will construct my case out of MDF and it will be 60CM x 60CM. It will take a while for me to start working on the case as I want to make the LED panels first. I have however made a rough design in SketchUp: Front of the case with its glorious 4096 LED's Closeup on the I/O, 2 of the knobs will be for power and reset and 2 will be for the LED's. Another awesome feature of the case is the grill between all cubes. The top of the case will also be ventilated. I don't really care about the PC hardware (its all about the case), so I will have a section that can slide out on rails which should offer enough place for all the PC hardware. Planning: Again, this build will take a while, I just ordered some of the LED panels and a Arduino so I can start on that soon. Once I'm happy with the LED panels and the design I will start on the actual case. I'm also constantly getting new ideas, my most recent one was to use a RFID receiver to start the PC by simply dropping my key-chain (containing a RFID) on my desk where the reader will be
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- cm 2
- connection machine
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Need help finding an external drive, case replacement that fits, good quality! Hello LTT, Well then a pretty straight to the point title. So yes I'm including some below images of course. Basically, and originally I purchased an: iOmega eGO RPHD-UG3 1.5TB external hard drive ...several years ago now, and I'm starting to realize that some capital £ $ spent on this drive was indeed wasted especially in regard to the case. As you will examine in the images, (specifically the 3rd one) the case is of a terrible plastic hard slot pin design which I had to wreck in order to get into Ridiculous! Another reason I now think that this drive is/was a swindle, is the fact that, you open it up and it's a Seagate drive, the company/corporation don't even make their own drives but with the advertising of the drive, they almost make you think they do. It really is a shoddy case you'll see! The best thing about it was probably the supposed "shock protection" that came from the rubber exoskeleton strech cover. Everything else is poor, I think I actually bought the drive thinking the case was metal because of it's appearance. Trick 'o' the eye. AVOID buying drives in cases like these. I would've been better off buying a drive on it's own, then buying my own case for it. Needless to say it would have been cheaper! Lesson learned! So what external cases do you suggest? Metal prefered, anything that would help it survive an average drop please. I want to also point out that eventually the drive is going into a rig of mine however this is way far in the future (rearranging funds). But just so you know, take this also as an indication that I don't want to spend much of course. [P.S and no I haven't yet searched and researched, myself online. (tired going to bed).
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My 600T used to be the Silver Edition, but the color was starting to get pretty boring. I decided that it was time for a fresh coat of paint. Since I'm a big Ferrari fan, I wanted to do give the case a Ferrari 'tint'. My favorite Ferrari color is called "Abu Dhabi Blue", so I wanted to paint the case in that very color. Here's what the color looks like on an actual 458: After searching numerous DIY stores for a few weeks, I managed to find a metallic blue that looked very simular, and I painted the case. Here are the results: (Sorry for the mess :wacko: ) This was my first time ever 'modding' case, but I think it turned out pretty good What do you guys think?
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What is HyperParadise? Recently I found my old 2004 DP PowerMac g5 in my basement. Used to love that old beast, so why not bring it back to life? So this is going to be a worklog of me rebuilding it. With the name “HyperParadise” So what is this wonderful machine going to consist of? Well in the moment, I am left with a beautiful, empty case that measure about 580x520x205mm. What are the plans for this project? In this build I am mostly going to focus on the following things: · It is going to be quite low powered with an air-cooled haswell or broadwell CPU (probably i3 or i5) · All new internal layout for ATX mobo/psu · Rotated motherboard tray (with i/o on the top) · Sound dampening · Side panel window (maybe make something cool with SmartGlass?) · Just make it look beautiful both inside and outside So thank you very much for having a look at my threadJ I will probably post an update with some pics tomorrow, and more of my plans. Stay tuned…
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Hello guys! I'm starting to make mockups for my project. The ideia is a ITX case with a console-like form factor but extreme performance - aka Tiki, Bolt, etc. The building process probably won't start until january, but since I'll be using industrial equipment that will not be 100% of the time at my disposal, I want to have everything sorted out so I can minimize problems and delays. Let's get into the parts: