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Hello Peeps. I got some Deepcool ARGB casing fans from a Deepcool Mattrex case .But these fans have 3 pin JSTSM connector and I wasn't provided any converter. So is there any way to use ARGB on these fans without any converter/hub/ splitter? live in a kind of remote area so hard to get anything
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Status: Final Important Notes: I've design this to work on my AMD Frameworks motherboard and the Intel boards are untested. Follow this guide at your own risk. Spoilers: Framework has hamstrung the AMD Ryzen chipset by throttling the CPU to a paltry sum of just 17W. Under all core utilization the max that I can my chip to clock upto is 2100 Mhz, and 1750 Average Mhz. I was able to clock the 760m to a boost clock of 2400 before the performance starts to fall on it's face. For overclocking I am using AATU though not fully supported I was able to clock the iGPU higher than what I was able to by default. I had ambitions of making the cpu holder customized to replace the Framework cooler with desktop eniterly but this mod is all that is needed to keep the fan from making an absolute ear piercing noise. With the fan directly contacting the heat pipes it's able to keep the whole package under 42C. If you are able to get the 7000 Series Mobile processor to overclock please let me know. Till then this project is done. Description: I've spent yesterday modeling a replacement cover that holds the heatsink in place over the top of the heatsinks off the cooler-master heat spreader. Similar to the design as Elevated Systems design but adapted to suit the model of Nactua heatsink I've selected. It utilizes the holes in the aluminium sheets and the actual heat tubes to compress the heatsink down onto the existing heat pipes. Printed with rigid enough material should apply enough force to compress the heatsink down to effectively transfer heat to Nactua heatsink and fan. Works in progress: *Automatic speed controls depending on the CPU temp via eBay +12VDC adapter. Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/305269828606 Community Ideas: (Suggestions here) Things you'll need *Frameworks/Cooler Masters Standalone Case *Frameworks AMD Motherboard *3D printer with build volume of 200mm*150mm *2mm thermal pads to pickup a few voltage regulators (optional) *2x M2x8mm bolts Reference: Link to Elevated Systems video - Hopes and Dream: Future projects on this are to integrate the standalone case and external GPU case. Though after exhaustive research it's not currently worth the investment of the hardware. Maybe after USB5 comes out then it can be more worth while but till then it's just simply not worth it. Happy printing Framework Fan Mod Right V1.0.STL Framework Fan Mod Left V1.0.STL
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Finishing up a mod for my Razer Huntsman Mini. I have been sick and tired of wires on my desk for a very long time, and technology to replace all cables does exist now, so I figured this was the time to make my dreams real. The basic idea is to attach a wireless charge mat to the bottom of my keyboard, and place Qi charging pads underneath my desk mat. I have already cut a piece of foam to hide my Logitech Powerplay mat, so I had a good idea that this would work. In practice, this idea loses its legs fairly quickly, because you not only have to attach a wireless charging receiver, but also a battery and some way for the keyboard to transmit key presses in a mostly latency free way. Oh, and I really didn't want to wind up spending more money on this mod than the keyboard itself was worth, and ideally I didn't want to spend more than about $50. Finding a suitable Qi charging receiver was actually really easy, apparently these exist as phone accessories for people with phone that don't have wireless charging. You can find ones like this one I used on Amazon for about $13. My solution was this- using a Raspberry Pi Zero W, I installed VirtualHere server, a USB over LAN software that's actually free so long as you're only using one device, and attached the Pi W to a large dual-cell battery bank. I wound up using this one which I already had lying around, but a newer one with USB C charging could be beneficial. The most important thing here is that the battery bank continuously provides power. Some battery banks switch over from the cell to the USB charging port, resulting in the Raspberry Pi turning off and rebooting every time you remove it from the wireless charging mat. Next I cut a hole in the bottom of a wooden prototype case that I could pass the wireless receiver's USB plug through. Finally, I cut two holes into my desk mat in the spots I most commonly use my keyboard. One hole was cut in the center for typing, and the other in the top left for gaming. Quick note here, the angles that the Huntsman Mini normally allow you to adjust the keyboard from 6 degrees to 9 degrees (nice), but I found that I needed the keyboard raised at a 15 degree angle to fit every part underneath the faceplate. I don't really notice the difference, but some people might, so I wanted to let you know. The final step was officially putting the thing together. I unscrewed the face plate of the Huntsman Mini, which was remarkably easy, and then I had a fabricator model and 3D print a new case for the keyboard. The final result looks absolutely fabulous, with 4 screw mounting points in the corners and lot of open space for placing each component. The purple model is one of the prototypes, but the internal design is exactly the same as the final product. Once I had every component in place, I marked out empty spaces that I could fill with cheap metal tire weights like these to add some more weight to the keyboard. Make sure to cover all of the exposed metal with tape so that the circuitry doesn't short. The last thing anyone wants next to their fingers is a lithium ion battery that's shorting out! (Fun fact, depending on how you place the weights, you can create your own cable channels for the USB wires that need to be run. I don't know how to solder, or the internals would be much more space efficient.) With all of the internal parts placed, the last thing to do is close everything up! This post mostly focuses on the physical mod, but setting up the Raspberry Pi with VirtualHere is really simple. They have a guide posted here for how to install the server program on a Linux machine, and guides for how to automatically start a program on boot exist all over the internet. One last thing to take care of is to install the VirtualHere client on your windows machine, and follow this guide on how to set a program to start on boot in Windows 10 so that VirtualHere is detecting keyboard inputs before you have to log in. (A keyboard isn't worth much if you can't log into Windows with it lol) Once your software is configured, you're basically good to go! The best thing about this is that using USB over LAN is pretty seamless as long as you don't plan on taking your keyboard out of your house. Plus, now your keyboard has a computer inside of it, so the options for taking work on the go are pretty cool as well! And to address concerns over latency, 2.4ghz signals are already what most wireless peripherals use to transmit, and in games I have noticed no discernable delay between using a wired keyboard instead of this wireless solution. Otherwise, that's it guys! I added a small LED that illuminates to show when the keyboard is charging, and some small marks on my mouse mat to act as guides for setting the keyboard down, and the mod was complete. This mod could theoretically work for any keyboard in existence and only costs about $40 so long as you already have a couple of USB cables laying around. Obviously there are some improvements to be made, such as using fast charging Qi pads, adapters, and a battery bank that accepts USB C charging, as well as a way to check the battery percentage of the keyboard, but each of those add-ons adds cost, and the idea here was to create this mod for as little extra money as possible. I think I was pretty successful, but let me know what you think!
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Hi! I have had my LG 38GL950G for a while now (since late 2019) The fan(s) has started to make a hissing/high pitched sound, only when the monitor is on. As i don't use headphones when i am at my computer it gets really straining after a while. I am super happy with the monitor and am not really looking to change. So i was thinking of opening it up and changing the fans both the cooling fan and the G-sync fan. to something a bit more "quality" and quiet. I have been looking online for and have seen people do this but not to the G-sync fan. My fear is that changing the G-sync fan can brick the monitor. Has anyone done this? am i better off just starting to use headphones than going through all this trouble? Any advice is welcome! Thank you!
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Something the algorithm showed me. Custom Kinetic PC Case
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So I backed up and then modded the bios of my (reference) 980 Ti. Removed power limit, and removed boost, added fan stop below 64°C. (This part is not the important thing, but it is just for you to know where my doubts are coming from) Why does this (and almost every) GPU draws as much as 410 watts during a MSI kombustor test (donut 5200MB in case it is relevant) while reporting 100% GPU usage, and, while gaming it still gets 100% usage, but power consumption won't get past 220 watts, even at a higher GPU clock than kombustor test. If some of you want the bios, I can upload it. Thank you in advance.
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Hi all, I'm writing to ask if anyone has ever been able to make an LCD display like this one work on Linux. I don't mind if I have to code something out for this to work, but I have no idea where to start. I do not want to download the TT RGB PLUS 2.0 Software, and honestly would rather just sell the panel before having to install it. If anyone has any ideas, or if it's a lost cause, I'd love to hear the advice. TIA :)
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Looking to mod the Thermaltake SHARK VA7000BWA, wondering which setup to put inside. Trying to install a good spec recent parts that don't run hot bearing in mind the reduced airflow. Have a couple of 5.5" port to fan converters that I had 3d printed for increased airflow in the front of the PC. Will be dremaling out airflow cutouts on the front door
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Greetings! I made a simple modification to the screwdriver box to hold all my bit sets. I cut the box insert in the same fashion the original was cut. Pretty simple but in my opinion it turned out really clean. Perhaps the boxes could come pre-diecut for all the sets available?
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I've modded my Corsair SPEC 01, I've taken the hard drive bay out, and the two hard drives that I have, I sticked them with velcro in the optical drive bay. Now I think the build looks a lot better, tell me what you think. Sorry for crappy picture quality.
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hi, i lm daily driving the Asus vivobook pro 14 the crhager is a 120w charger with a bucket plug in the end and a giantish power brick i want to make / buy a 120w type c to bucket plug for it so I can use something like anker Gen chargers for it and all the other devices I own, any ideas on best way to do it or from where to buy?
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Battery life has taken a gander off the deep end. From 1+ month it's now down to a few days at most. The mouse has been out of warranty for ~4yrs now, and I've had it for ~5. I'm thinking maybe I can replace the batteries with a Qi charger (similar to Logitech's Logitech G PowerPlay, but done on the cheap with a custom PCB under a mousepad, or even the PCB working as the mousepad), but I've never seen anyone do something similar. Another option would be to drill a hole in the front of the mouse, and internally pass a couple of wires to the battery enclosure, and use a DC-to-DC converter to regulate the voltage down to 1.5V. Any suggestions? Has anyone done something similar? I really don't want to give up on the 602 just get because I love the shape, but also for financial reasons...
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K, so I've got this power supply with this insanely loud fan that goes to 100% pretty much all the time, it's a 120mm, 2-pin fan, and I want to replace it with one that I can control through the motherboard, but.. I'm pretty sure the PSU won't turn on without a fan (Also note that the connector on the psu for the fan is unplugable thanks to some wierd white stuff that's on it, so the only real way to "unplug" would be to cut the wires). And if you're wondering why I don't just get a new one, it's because I'm kinda low on cash ATM. 600Watts, System max cons. 250Watts
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First, no this is not about the zipper pulls. I have been doing a significant amount of traveling with the LTT backpack and there's one thing that I seriously miss on it: A foldaway front. I only learned of the practicality of this feature after I had already ordered the bag and honestly it's one of the only gripes I have with the design. (Seriously guys, you have truly built an amazingly sturdy bag.) Not to worry tho, I have done some tailoring in the past and the way the seams are laid out even make this mod a rather easy one to pull off. I am now thinking about opening up the seam that connects front piece with the top fabric, which as a whole form the front of the backpack. The zipper would have to go down to about the same height as the one for the tech pocket in the back. This would allow me to fold away the front completely, so I can front load clothes for a trip like on my last bag. However, I don't want this to look like a bodge job so my question is: What is the exact YKK model of the original zippers? (And while we're at it, any sourcing recommendations for central Europe?) I want this to look as close to factory made as possible. In case the fashion team sees this, pointers are very welcome! If I decide to actually go through with the mod, I might post it on here. But I have to test the doability of this idea first. Thx for your help guys!
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About two month back, I purchased an old cheap Apple Power Mac G5... Just because I saw this Linus guy and the LTT-Team build their HackPro. Components in the heart of my machine: Intel i7 6700k Asus z170-A ASUS GTX 1080 Strix Since the guy I bought the G5 from sad that it didnt turn on, I didnt even try. I got strayed into the teardown, i found a leaking Liquidcooler-Unit and some parts with water damage. After everything got unscrewed and taken out of the case, it was time to take mesurements. While I waited for the Aluminium sheets to arrive, the design for motherboard-tray and rear io plate was going great. Templates were printed and Aluminium was cut ( buy Hand/Jigsaw... ) Turns out, it didnt fit (Spoiler, the final version isn't fitting perfectly either) The cutout for the fans in the back of the case needed to be a fear mm to the right. So I adapted my CAD file to the changes and redid the backplate. After cutting that again, it was time to mill the edges to fit flush with the original backplate, again... And getting the PCI-slotbracket in place with epoxy, again... The motherbaord-tray still needed some holes so i could bolt it to the original standoffs, cutouts for cables to go through and to safe some weight, of course. In the final version, there is a bridge in the coutout in the top right. Now it was actually looking really promising. I found some spare old parts to use for test fitting in my creation. The pcb-standoffs arrived. Since I only have metric thread cutting tools at home, i use the standoff it self to cut the threads. It worked out fine. The radiator braked in the front still needed some tabs to secure it to the Motherboard-tray, so I welded some on to it. It would have been possible to make it without the need to weld, but then I would have had to get a taller sheet of Aluminium, which was out of the question. So I ended up with this: I wanted to have my PSU securely mounted (not like some other people ). So i rigged a "nice" solution out of spare aluminium that was left over from cutting, which in the end would also be used as a SSD mounting option. And a HDD cage holder was also the result of rigging stuff with aluminium left overs. The HDD Cage was not in the final orientation though. I though I was set up pretty good from the inside, thats when i started drilling some holes. The original cutout for the powercord was taken and placed with some epoxy. (The original plug was used and soldered to a short extension to connect to the PSU and act as a passthrough) To really blend both parts together, I used some filler and smoothed it all out. Now it was time for painting, as i am always short on money, its ghetto rigging time again. Everything was sanded and properly prepped. After redoing the main two parts were the evenness of the paint matters the most, I am still not 100% satisfied, but it is good enough for the time being. In the end, if i dont like the look of them anymore and I have the time. I can just swap them, since they are not modded at all. For front io, i used the existing plug, cut of the wires and soldered the on/off switch, the power LED and the headphonejack to some longer cable i harvested out of an older case. The USB 2.0 Port was repleced with a USB 3.0 Port and some epoxy. The Firewire Port just sits there without a purpose in life. That is all I can do without the real parts in it. Its time to disasamble the old machine. I took some good bye pictures. Don't worry, these aren't all My cpu isnt the newest anymore, that means there is no warranty to be voided, so lets chop the head of with some cheap chinese tool and apply some liquid metal ( dont worry about the professional sketch in the background ). To check if I killed it, I just used my "testbench". The Problem is, that because I dont have a second pc, i was so eager to have my source of addiction back in my life, i took zero pictures of the normal build process... So this is all I got: The cutout behind the Motherbaord was usefull to maneuver the cables around and also helped the plate to screw down, by leaving more room for the 24 pin extation connector. Here is almost everything in now. I still needed to make a new mount for the reservoir. The rear radiator mountingpoints didn't aline with the rear io plate holes. (there is the mistake I mentioned earlier) I solved it by cutting away some sheetmetal in the case to make it fit. At this stage, its almoste done. Gpu support bracket is made, Pump was mounted, SSD's and HDD's are mounted, tubes were bend and front panel stuff was connected. Filling the loop was very easy and no leaks were discovered. I added a LED lighting system with some brackets and used a "normaly closed" switch to turn the lights off when the sidepanel is closed. Ready is my somewaht sleeper build. End result: All Components: Heart: -i7 6700k -ASUS z170 - A -ASUS GTX 1080 Strix SSD's: -Samsung 750 Evo 250 GB -Samsung 850 Evo 500 GB HDD's: -some 1 TB thing -some 500 GB thing PSU: -Bequiet! Pure Power L8-CM 730W Watercooling parts: -Alphacool NexXxos XT 45 Full Copper 360mm Radiator -Alphacool NexXxos ST 30 Full Copper 240mm Radiator -EK-Supremacy Evo CPU Block -EK 1080 Strix Full Cover water block + Backplate -Alphacool D5 Pump with EK antivibartion-mount -Aqua computer aqualis eco 100ml reservoir LED system: -Aqua computer Farbwerk -RGB LED strips Fans: -4 Bequiet Pure Wing 2 120mm -1 Corsair "case fan" 120mm That was my Project. If it is ok I would poste the CAD files and the techinical drawings for the rear io backplate, motherboard-tray, front radiator mount, HDD mount and PSU mount. Its not really clear to me, if that counts as selfpromotion or not. Have a good day everyone! edit: Greetings from Germany
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Hi All I live in Australia stupidly the SteamDeck isnt for sale here i would love to buy one but just saw that the ROG Ally will be available at local stores to buy (YAY). I may not buy one because i really would like to use the SteamDeck and Linux but the ROG Ally has the stupidly proprietary connector for the ROG XG Mobile. I have an external GPU enclosure and wonder if anyone could get an eGPU to work with the port on the ROG Ally. Yes i know its not a thunderbolt port and yes i no its x8 lanes and not x4 but still some way to get eGPUs to work with it would be awesome and could make it a better value.
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Hey there, has anyone recommendations for stabilizers that fit in the vulcan tkl for standard keycaps? I´d really like to change my keycap's to blank ones, but those annoying rattly stabilizers are getting in my way. I´d like to see some budget options with an availability in EU, cause importing is usually a pain in the butt. Thanks for helping my out.
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I have this old dell Optiplex 7080 SFF that I don't use anymore but want to with a dell intel 8th gen motherboard and I'm looking to upgrade the case on this because it came with a 200w dell psu and the case won't fit other PSUs. I'm wondering if anyone knows if the hardware in this can be put into a better case or how I could check if it would fit into one before buying it?
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Here it goes. i was trying to plug my nvme to pciex4 adapter into pcie x1 slot ( my mobo has one x16 for gpu and 3 x1 pcie slots only). so i had to cut off the ending plastic of the x1 slot in order to seat-in my adapter. the problem is, im scared! one of the far-right pin in the pcie x1 slot apears to hv gotten out of the way. its sort of in the middle of the slot. it got pushed to its place once i tried an old gpu in that slot just to make sure it wont break etc. I worry what if i seat-in my adapter and somhow it bends the pin to the point that it touches the other pins. ive read that its a data pin not the power pin(power pins are on the left side of the notch right??) The issue: i once seated my r5 240 gpu into it to see if it will break the mobo. but nothing happened on the first boot.. but then god knows what had i done- pc started 3 beeps on POST.. then i removed the CMOS battery and on the next boot, it gave 5 beeps. i googled it while it scared the sh*t outta me and i figured out that the 3 beeps had to do something w the ram. i reseated the ram & CMOS and it was fine. maybe while double checking the mobo 24pin connector- i had mistouched the ram sticks?? idk. it was fine. but til this day i never used that pcie x1 slot again... on tomorrow i doublechecked the pins, they were fine- away from eachother... that one pin was a little in the middle of the slot, but it just gets pushed to the side where its supposed to be when i seat something into it. now it gave me OCD.... damn my fear is what if that pin someday touches with the other pins in the slot... what will happen? can anyone tell me? will it kill my nvme along the adapter? (adapter has a capacitor to it too... ik im dumb:( ) or will it just tell me that my nvme drive is not found- just like other storage device w improper connection. my nvme is new to me so i cant risk killing it or losing the data onto it in case of a bad contact of pins. long story short: what will happen if pcie pins touched/collided with eachother. the pins at the most right side(toward the frontpanel of my pc) its b75 dell mobo w 3770. my adapter is pcie x4 the slot is x1 i had to remove the plastic from the right side of the x1 slot in order to seat-in this x4 adapter. or else it wouldnt.... thank u for reading me...
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- motherboard
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Hey Guys, I just want to show you my solution for a very cheap, silent and energy efficent nas. At first I´m a student so money is the biggest factor in this build and sorry for my english I´m from germany. I wanted to have a full 64bit Linux Box to play arround with and a reliable place to backup my photos. Furthermore streaming videos and Live TV in my network and run my online photography website. Looking at Synology, i really liked the small size, but the software is to restricted for all my needs and it is very expensiv So i got myself a Dell Thin Client used from ebay for 30 Dollars. It runs a AMD 1,5Ghz Cpu with 4 threads,has Gigabit Lan and two USB3.0 Ports. Putting in 2*4GB Ram and 2*2,5 Sata 4TB drives it has become the perfect solution for me. I´m running ESXI with Xpenology for Backup and Streaming Video, Ubuntu Server with my website on nigix and small debian with tvheadend. Esxi is running of the 16GB Flash Card and the two drives are in raid for security. Getting the two drives in this small case was a real challenge. I put a mini-pci Sata Card in there to get the Sata Ports. Then i solderd in 12V, GND and 5V connected to a molex port to get power for the drives. For getting more space i flexed of some heatsink fins, like Linus always does The Thin client is in bios configured to boot as soon as it gets power. Its now running for 2 weeks non stop, no thermal problems so far and completly silent as there ar no fans in there. Coasts so far: -Thin Client 30$ -Ram ist out of broken notebooks from the scrapyard, so for free -pci sata card 10$ -cables are from the scrapyard and out of old pc`s -Seagate Barracuda 2*4TB 240$ I think for people with soldering skills and tight budget this should be considerd as an option. Best regards, LS
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Basically I'm looking for this But with a black (possibly matte black) solder mask I wanted to make a customized pen drive with resin, but I had a specific style in mind and green doesn't really fit. Are you aware of a specific model of pen drive that I can rip the PCB out of or that is directly sold as a PCB with a BLACK solder mask? (Preferably with a decent performance but at this point, I'm accepting anything.)
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From the album: My Rigs
Took this picture with my GoPro Hero 3 -
From the album: Bill Owen's John Hanlon Build
Define R3 Modified by Bill Owen of MNPCTech as a tribute for John Hanlon.-
- fractal design
- define r3
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From the album: [concept] diagonalmod case
this is the update on my [concept] diagonal mod, set up in my real life virtual room, rendered with vray for sketchup the main chasis is built upon the CM690advII topic post: http://linustechtips.com/main/topic/104747-concept-diagonal-build-in-cm690-adv-ii/© darkspeedy26
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