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Hello Peeps. I got some Deepcool ARGB casing fans from a Deepcool Mattrex case .But these fans have 3 pin JSTSM connector and I wasn't provided any converter. So is there any way to use ARGB on these fans without any converter/hub/ splitter? live in a kind of remote area so hard to get anything
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Status: Final Important Notes: I've design this to work on my AMD Frameworks motherboard and the Intel boards are untested. Follow this guide at your own risk. Spoilers: Framework has hamstrung the AMD Ryzen chipset by throttling the CPU to a paltry sum of just 17W. Under all core utilization the max that I can my chip to clock upto is 2100 Mhz, and 1750 Average Mhz. I was able to clock the 760m to a boost clock of 2400 before the performance starts to fall on it's face. For overclocking I am using AATU though not fully supported I was able to clock the iGPU higher than what I was able to by default. I had ambitions of making the cpu holder customized to replace the Framework cooler with desktop eniterly but this mod is all that is needed to keep the fan from making an absolute ear piercing noise. With the fan directly contacting the heat pipes it's able to keep the whole package under 42C. If you are able to get the 7000 Series Mobile processor to overclock please let me know. Till then this project is done. Description: I've spent yesterday modeling a replacement cover that holds the heatsink in place over the top of the heatsinks off the cooler-master heat spreader. Similar to the design as Elevated Systems design but adapted to suit the model of Nactua heatsink I've selected. It utilizes the holes in the aluminium sheets and the actual heat tubes to compress the heatsink down onto the existing heat pipes. Printed with rigid enough material should apply enough force to compress the heatsink down to effectively transfer heat to Nactua heatsink and fan. Works in progress: *Automatic speed controls depending on the CPU temp via eBay +12VDC adapter. Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/305269828606 Community Ideas: (Suggestions here) Things you'll need *Frameworks/Cooler Masters Standalone Case *Frameworks AMD Motherboard *3D printer with build volume of 200mm*150mm *2mm thermal pads to pickup a few voltage regulators (optional) *2x M2x8mm bolts Reference: Link to Elevated Systems video - Hopes and Dream: Future projects on this are to integrate the standalone case and external GPU case. Though after exhaustive research it's not currently worth the investment of the hardware. Maybe after USB5 comes out then it can be more worth while but till then it's just simply not worth it. Happy printing Framework Fan Mod Right V1.0.STL Framework Fan Mod Left V1.0.STL
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Hi! I have had my LG 38GL950G for a while now (since late 2019) The fan(s) has started to make a hissing/high pitched sound, only when the monitor is on. As i don't use headphones when i am at my computer it gets really straining after a while. I am super happy with the monitor and am not really looking to change. So i was thinking of opening it up and changing the fans both the cooling fan and the G-sync fan. to something a bit more "quality" and quiet. I have been looking online for and have seen people do this but not to the G-sync fan. My fear is that changing the G-sync fan can brick the monitor. Has anyone done this? am i better off just starting to use headphones than going through all this trouble? Any advice is welcome! Thank you!
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Something the algorithm showed me. Custom Kinetic PC Case
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So I backed up and then modded the bios of my (reference) 980 Ti. Removed power limit, and removed boost, added fan stop below 64°C. (This part is not the important thing, but it is just for you to know where my doubts are coming from) Why does this (and almost every) GPU draws as much as 410 watts during a MSI kombustor test (donut 5200MB in case it is relevant) while reporting 100% GPU usage, and, while gaming it still gets 100% usage, but power consumption won't get past 220 watts, even at a higher GPU clock than kombustor test. If some of you want the bios, I can upload it. Thank you in advance.
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Hi all, I'm writing to ask if anyone has ever been able to make an LCD display like this one work on Linux. I don't mind if I have to code something out for this to work, but I have no idea where to start. I do not want to download the TT RGB PLUS 2.0 Software, and honestly would rather just sell the panel before having to install it. If anyone has any ideas, or if it's a lost cause, I'd love to hear the advice. TIA :) -
Looking to mod the Thermaltake SHARK VA7000BWA, wondering which setup to put inside. Trying to install a good spec recent parts that don't run hot bearing in mind the reduced airflow. Have a couple of 5.5" port to fan converters that I had 3d printed for increased airflow in the front of the PC. Will be dremaling out airflow cutouts on the front door -
Greetings! I made a simple modification to the screwdriver box to hold all my bit sets. I cut the box insert in the same fashion the original was cut. Pretty simple but in my opinion it turned out really clean. Perhaps the boxes could come pre-diecut for all the sets available?
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hi, i lm daily driving the Asus vivobook pro 14 the crhager is a 120w charger with a bucket plug in the end and a giantish power brick i want to make / buy a 120w type c to bucket plug for it so I can use something like anker Gen chargers for it and all the other devices I own, any ideas on best way to do it or from where to buy?
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Battery life has taken a gander off the deep end. From 1+ month it's now down to a few days at most. The mouse has been out of warranty for ~4yrs now, and I've had it for ~5. I'm thinking maybe I can replace the batteries with a Qi charger (similar to Logitech's Logitech G PowerPlay, but done on the cheap with a custom PCB under a mousepad, or even the PCB working as the mousepad), but I've never seen anyone do something similar. Another option would be to drill a hole in the front of the mouse, and internally pass a couple of wires to the battery enclosure, and use a DC-to-DC converter to regulate the voltage down to 1.5V. Any suggestions? Has anyone done something similar? I really don't want to give up on the 602 just get because I love the shape, but also for financial reasons...
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K, so I've got this power supply with this insanely loud fan that goes to 100% pretty much all the time, it's a 120mm, 2-pin fan, and I want to replace it with one that I can control through the motherboard, but.. I'm pretty sure the PSU won't turn on without a fan (Also note that the connector on the psu for the fan is unplugable thanks to some wierd white stuff that's on it, so the only real way to "unplug" would be to cut the wires). And if you're wondering why I don't just get a new one, it's because I'm kinda low on cash ATM. 600Watts, System max cons. 250Watts
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First, no this is not about the zipper pulls. I have been doing a significant amount of traveling with the LTT backpack and there's one thing that I seriously miss on it: A foldaway front. I only learned of the practicality of this feature after I had already ordered the bag and honestly it's one of the only gripes I have with the design. (Seriously guys, you have truly built an amazingly sturdy bag.) Not to worry tho, I have done some tailoring in the past and the way the seams are laid out even make this mod a rather easy one to pull off. I am now thinking about opening up the seam that connects front piece with the top fabric, which as a whole form the front of the backpack. The zipper would have to go down to about the same height as the one for the tech pocket in the back. This would allow me to fold away the front completely, so I can front load clothes for a trip like on my last bag. However, I don't want this to look like a bodge job so my question is: What is the exact YKK model of the original zippers? (And while we're at it, any sourcing recommendations for central Europe?) I want this to look as close to factory made as possible. In case the fashion team sees this, pointers are very welcome! If I decide to actually go through with the mod, I might post it on here. But I have to test the doability of this idea first. Thx for your help guys! -
Hi All I live in Australia stupidly the SteamDeck isnt for sale here i would love to buy one but just saw that the ROG Ally will be available at local stores to buy (YAY). I may not buy one because i really would like to use the SteamDeck and Linux but the ROG Ally has the stupidly proprietary connector for the ROG XG Mobile. I have an external GPU enclosure and wonder if anyone could get an eGPU to work with the port on the ROG Ally. Yes i know its not a thunderbolt port and yes i no its x8 lanes and not x4 but still some way to get eGPUs to work with it would be awesome and could make it a better value.
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I have this old dell Optiplex 7080 SFF that I don't use anymore but want to with a dell intel 8th gen motherboard and I'm looking to upgrade the case on this because it came with a 200w dell psu and the case won't fit other PSUs. I'm wondering if anyone knows if the hardware in this can be put into a better case or how I could check if it would fit into one before buying it? -
Hey there, has anyone recommendations for stabilizers that fit in the vulcan tkl for standard keycaps? I´d really like to change my keycap's to blank ones, but those annoying rattly stabilizers are getting in my way. I´d like to see some budget options with an availability in EU, cause importing is usually a pain in the butt. Thanks for helping my out.
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Here it goes. i was trying to plug my nvme to pciex4 adapter into pcie x1 slot ( my mobo has one x16 for gpu and 3 x1 pcie slots only). so i had to cut off the ending plastic of the x1 slot in order to seat-in my adapter. the problem is, im scared! one of the far-right pin in the pcie x1 slot apears to hv gotten out of the way. its sort of in the middle of the slot. it got pushed to its place once i tried an old gpu in that slot just to make sure it wont break etc. I worry what if i seat-in my adapter and somhow it bends the pin to the point that it touches the other pins. ive read that its a data pin not the power pin(power pins are on the left side of the notch right??) The issue: i once seated my r5 240 gpu into it to see if it will break the mobo. but nothing happened on the first boot.. but then god knows what had i done- pc started 3 beeps on POST.. then i removed the CMOS battery and on the next boot, it gave 5 beeps. i googled it while it scared the sh*t outta me and i figured out that the 3 beeps had to do something w the ram. i reseated the ram & CMOS and it was fine. maybe while double checking the mobo 24pin connector- i had mistouched the ram sticks?? idk. it was fine. but til this day i never used that pcie x1 slot again... on tomorrow i doublechecked the pins, they were fine- away from eachother... that one pin was a little in the middle of the slot, but it just gets pushed to the side where its supposed to be when i seat something into it. now it gave me OCD.... damn my fear is what if that pin someday touches with the other pins in the slot... what will happen? can anyone tell me? will it kill my nvme along the adapter? (adapter has a capacitor to it too... ik im dumb:( ) or will it just tell me that my nvme drive is not found- just like other storage device w improper connection. my nvme is new to me so i cant risk killing it or losing the data onto it in case of a bad contact of pins. long story short: what will happen if pcie pins touched/collided with eachother. the pins at the most right side(toward the frontpanel of my pc) its b75 dell mobo w 3770. my adapter is pcie x4 the slot is x1 i had to remove the plastic from the right side of the x1 slot in order to seat-in this x4 adapter. or else it wouldnt.... thank u for reading me...
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Basically I'm looking for this But with a black (possibly matte black) solder mask I wanted to make a customized pen drive with resin, but I had a specific style in mind and green doesn't really fit. Are you aware of a specific model of pen drive that I can rip the PCB out of or that is directly sold as a PCB with a BLACK solder mask? (Preferably with a decent performance but at this point, I'm accepting anything.)
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So I bought a H510 and found out it doesn’t have the greatest airflow. I will be adding 3 fans to the front in addition to the 2 back fans included in the case. I was wondering if you could take off the front panel, buy a H510 Flow front panel and then put that on it to improve airflow. -
I have a ACEPC AK2 small computer and the fan works, but the terminal to the motherboard is destroyed. The entire terminal ripped of taking some of the pcb with it. Is there any where on the board that I could run some wires to get enough power to power the fan? I thought that maybe if I run some wires directly to the barrel connector, but I don't know if that will work. But if anyone knows of another way to power the fan I am all ears.
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I hate RGB. I have an EVGA 3090 and ASUS ROG Strix Crosshair Hero VIII motherboard with broken second PCIE slot. I need assistance with removing all RGB from my build. I want the computer to have no lights except for post display, power status, and disk activity. all of the extra light keeps me up at night and distracts me. I have tried replacing all tempered glass with black powder coated aluminum panels. The RGB is still clearly visible through the fan grills, IO, slot covers, and screw holes. Thanks for any help you can provide.
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I would like to mod the BIOS of my laptop
BellTower posted a topic in CPUs, Motherboards, and Memory
My laptop is a dell inspiron 5570 and honestly it's Corei7 8550U kinda stinks along with many things and i wanna try to overclock (dont worry i dont want to turn my laptop into a mobile heat chamber lmao) well I wanna see how far i can get with making my laptop to run faster (and i'll probably get a cooler for my laptop too) -
Country: Finland Other details: The original power supply model is ADP-300CR I wish to do some soldering to make an adapter for my PS4 Pro. The original power supply is broken and needs to be replaced. I have cables such as these lying around but I am uncertain of the pin-outs on the PS4 Pro. I do not have a multimeter. I found this video on the subject earlier but their console seems slightly different from mine. Is it still viable to just follow the instructions on the video. Has anyone replaced an ADP-300CR before? I also found this blog post on the subject but I'm afraid I found it a bit confusing. Please help me get my PS4 Pro working again. -
If you are like me then you have been waiting for LTT to produce a new straw integrated lid. Wait no more, I have found a alternative as we wait for the LTT Staff to make said glorious lid. Thanks to this obsession with having water bottles that are way too big someone has made straws for any water bottle with lids similar to ours. It's just a straw with a collapsible silicone extension so the straw pops up when open and can be easily forced down to close. So if you too have longed for such an amalgamation, please grab this or anything similar for yourself. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZBZB3SJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details Disclaimer: Obviously this is strictly for the gen 2 lids, gen one lids would not benefit from this straw. Also the straw will need to be cut to size I'll measure mine and add it at some point, just to make the process a little easier. (I'm likely not the first to think/ do this but thought i would inform my fellow LTT bottles users)
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This is not selling for/in my country: I will make it myself. I'm thinking about locally laser-cutting a copper sheet/block. 1mm thick, between vram and heatsink, or should I get a thicker block? For that, I'll need to make and give a CAD file to the local service provider. This is the best info I've found so far. Mine's an Asus 3070ti TUF, haven't found on Tech Power Up yet, but seems to be the same as in the above video. https://www.techpowerup.com/review/zotac-geforce-rtx-3070-ti-amp-extreme/3.html https://www.techpowerup.com/review/zotac-geforce-rtx-3070-ti-amp-extreme/images/front_full.jpg This above is the closest I've found from the Asus TUF, seems to be the same orientation, proportion, 0-2-3-3 vram chip pattern. The size and distance from GPU die to vram chips must be the same. Picture seems a bit warped by lens, but seems fine for drawing the CAD on top of. I just need dimensions of the core die or vram chips outter shell, something like that, to take as reference. https://www.techpowerup.com/review/gigabyte-geforce-rtx-3070-ti-gaming-oc/3.html If anyone already has a CAD file, or knows a link, somewhere I can get the data I need, PLEASE share. When I install mine, if it works, I'll give the cad file in here for free so that anyone (INDIVIDUAL) can just laser cut this easy poop fix by him/her self, and be done with.
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can the cooling solution and backplate of a Zotac RTX 3070 (2 fans) be replaced with the 3 fans one from the msi 3070 or strix 3070? would the PCBs have the same mounting holes for the screws?
