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Hi Guy´s Today i need you help to decide what Asus Mainboard i should buy. first only Z170 chipset so I need a Mainboard with minimum 7 x 4-pin fan header´s and a Board/Bios that allow me to switch between pwm and dc fan control mode so that i can configure a 0 rpm mode for my fan´s in Idle. (very imported) 2 x pcie x16 slot for 2 way SLI My choice would be the Asus Z170 Sabertooth Mark 1. If you have a better Idear for me, please tell me. Thx Max
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Hey everybody, so I got this really cool http://www.disctech.com/Dell-SanDisk-LB406S-XRC7G-400GB-SFF-SAS-SSD-DEL SSD. Too bad it´s freakin SAS. To get it to work, could i just buy a SAS controller? How would i connect the drive with the controller? And what about a backplane? if i use one of those do i still need a controller? Thanks for answers!
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I've hopefully listed all the important specs down in the signature by now. Long story short: I wanted to steadily upgrade (New PSU, GPU, maybe RAM if enough $$/€€ are left) my PC over the next few months and started with the PSU as the backbone. Bought the Corsair RMi 750 off Amazon. I wanted to put it in right away so I started and tried to ground myself all the time (metal door handels, touching the Case from time to time), got the old PSU beQuiet! 550W 80, don't know the grade (Plat, Gold, Silver...) out and put this modular baby in. As I was putting it in I thought to myself "Why not take one of the two drive cages out too and let's not forget to turn this upper front case fan by 90° so that the Corsair Logo in the middle is in the right position ?" did that and also put my GPU on the upper PCIe slot. After installing the PSU I tried to boot it up, didn't work. Looked around and put the PWR_SW and all the other connectors in the right pins and aligned the +/- stuff. Somehow got it to work in a way that I had to push the Power-Button two times to boot up the PC. It ran for two straight days only to freeze at some point in the night and after that I got this exact problem after every possible step that I took: Push the Power-Button a bit/a second...everything starts up and shuts down after a second/immediately. Push the Power-Button longer than a second...everything starts up and shuts down after approx. 5-7 seconds. I've taken the steps of TroubleShoot posts from this and other forum(s), in no particular order: Breadboarding with the cardboard box that the PSU came in Switching the RAM completely and putting every module in every DIMM Putting in the old PSU, same problem Taking out the GPU; putting it into the "old" PCIe slot Switching the Power-Button and Reset-Button 'thingies' so I'd start by pressing the Reset-Button, shorting the PWR_SW pins with a Flathead screwdriver Putting in the old drive cage and putting the HDD in it's old spot Connecting the SATA cables to the HDD every possible way Disconnecting USB-Cage-Connectors to prevent a possible short circuit ( Should've mentioned this earlier, in these two days, the right one of the two USB2.0 Ports on top of the case stopped working ) Boot without HDD Clear CMOS; Taking out the CMOS Battery and waiting for a couple of minutes I've now come to the conclusion that the culprit is either the CPU or the Mainboard, I am more on the MB side of things. I'm asking you guys now to help me solve this annoying problem so I can game and watch in PC and not have to rely on the PCs of others. Thanks in advance EDIT: Some things just come to mind when you finished them ^^ The 'old' PSU beQuiet! PSU, the RAM Modules, CD/DVD Player and the HDD are all 4 years old The GPU is 2 years old, and the MB, CPU+Cooler and Case are ca. 10 months old.
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(Not that important information about me and my Computer: I'm 14 Years old, from Germany. Finished bulding my own Computer 9 months ago. No problems since 1 month ago) Hello Forum, So about a month ago my PSU fan started making weird sounds. No Problem, just buy a new one. Everything was perfectly fine then. 2 Weeks later, i wanted to turn on my Computer, but i had no Signal on my Monitor. I opened my Computer Case and everything was just running fine, except one Fan in the front that came with the case. It wasn't spinning. So i looked at my Motherboard, which has a LED Panel for codes. The codes were just fine, except that they were resetting all the time. I got like +5 normal booting codes, but after the code 32 (which stands for CPU booting) it just resettet and started from the beginning. So i searched the internet and read that you have to restart your PC 4 times by holding the On/Off button. Did that, but then my Computer started restarting after 2 Seconds.Here is a short list of what i tried to do to fix the Problem: Only starting with 1 ram Stick, starting without HDD, starting without SSD, statring without giving the CPU Power,putting in a new CMOS Battery; starting without giving the Graphics Card power and even tried the old PSU where the fan wasn't working correctly, still nothing. It isn't working since 1 week and i really hope that you guys can help me. SPECS: CPU: Intel Xeon e3 1241 v3 (boxed cooler) GC: MSI GTX 980Ti Gaming 6 MoBo: Gigabyte G.1 Sniper Z97 PSU : Cooler Mater B600 v2 ( 600w); old one: XFX TS550 (550w) RAM: 2x8GB Crucial Ballistix Sport DDR3-1600 HDD: 2000GB Seagate Desktop HDD ST2000DM001 SSD: 120Gb Crucial BX100 Case: Sharkonn B28 CMOS Battery: 3v 3032 Lithium OS: Windows 10 Home 64 Bit No overclocking. i did never touch the BIOS or change anything that's deep in my OS.
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Hey guys, so I'm building a mini-Itx rig right now. My mainboard is the Gigabyte GA-Z97N-Gaming 5 (rev. 1.0). For CPU power delivery the board has a EPS-12V connector port, but the power supply I got (BeQuiet! SFX Power 2 400W) only features a P4-ATX plug. I'm I still able to use the board without an adaptor? Just physically fitting it in is not a problem since the two plugs are essestially the same, with the EPS-12V beeing double the width of the P4-ATX. I'm using a i5 4690k as for my CPU, but I don't plan to overclock it as for now. Thanks for your answers, I really appreciate it.
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Hey Folks, does the AMD Phenom II X4 920 fit into the K10N78D Board? https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu.php?cpu=AMD+Phenom+II+X4+920&id=365 http://www.asrock.com/mb/nvidia/k10n78d/ I know it is a very simple question, and im 95% sure that it works. But i wanted to ask you first bevore i spend 50€ on it. Well the Socket seems fine, but maybe the Power support for the CPU is not high enough. idk Thanks!
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Hello, I have been looking for something like this for my 2600k GA-Z68X-UD3H-B3 system for a while now but to no avail. Situation: I write music on my PC. Because I want the most performance for virtual instruments and effects I overclocked the 2600k to 4.6GHz (@1.404V-1.42V, I know, kinda high but that worked for far more than two years now just fine). As it is I already have to "render" (bounce, if that tells you something) my instruments very often. At the stock 3.4GHz some of my synths don't do very well. Speedstep, C3/C6, C1E, EIST and Turboboost are disabled since they caused hiccups and stuttering. So 4.6GHz constantly. Even on catvideos \m/ or forums ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°) But my PC is only used for music production 30% of the time. The rest is stuff for university, youtube and a bit of TF2. And restarting and changing in the BIOS isn't an option; I have to get my ideas down as quickly as possible. Now in the summer my room gets toasty quite quickly. Even if it isn't really hot outside. Question: Is there a tool you can set up to have two profiles, preferably in-tray, where you set up two OC profiles (e.g. one stock; 3.4GHz, stock voltage (I believe 1.25V), one the current OC profile with 4.6GHz etc) and then quickly switch between them in-OS? If not, would there be any possibility to pass this idea on to ASUS, Gigabyte and MSI? The nicest thing ever would of course be standardization and then one ultra-lightweight (not more than one of two MB) utility that can alter the heat-heavy values (VCore, Multiplier, BCLK etc.) from within the OS on the fly based on manually created profiles...
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Hello, I am in a bit of a pickle. I think my motherboard is defective, am I right? (I am no expert on this topic) Here's the problem: I've had my machine for about 4 years now without any upgrades, a friend built it for me. It worked fine until yesterday morning. It won't start up anymore. The little LED on the mainboard is lit when the PSU is plugged in and turned on. When i try to power on the machine the fans and fan-LEDs start spinning and light up for a split second before everything shuts off (for < .5 seconds) even the power-led on the mainboard goes off, but after about half a second it lights up again, indicating the existence of power. I've tried a different PSU, because that was my first impression that it was broken, but the problem remains. unfortunately i don't have any spare parts to check what's really broken, is it the mainboard? my stuff: Asus Sabertooth z77 Eva GeForce GTX 680 2GB Intel i7 3770K Corsair Vengeance LP 4x4GB BeQuiet BQT L8-cm-730 Thank you in advance for your help!
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Greetings everyone So i live a in a place where it gets very hot in summers. The average temperature can vary from 25oC to 45oC. I have a Gigabyte GA-H170-Gaming 3. The processor (i7 6700) is watercooled with Corsair's H100 cooler. I have no worries for the processor, RAM or the GPU. But i want to add water cooling to my motherboard and leave the RAM,GPU,SSD and HDD using the case's (Cooler Master: CM 690 II ver.2) air cooling configuration. Right now i don't have a GPU but I'm planning to buy Gigabyte or Zotac GTX 970. Is there any way i can add water cooling to my motherboard?
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Hi, I was looking for a good Maiboard that has atleast 4 3.0 usb. I already found one but the problem is that it isent matching with my entire build... I wanted to go with the GIGABYTE GA-Z97M-D3H (Rev. 1.0), Intel Z97 But its Yellow.... I wanted to ask if you could help me, finding a Mainboard that has white heatsinks / white themed?? I cant find one and I need to stay under 120.- Thanks for the help already! (dont be shy to correct my text up here... I am not good in english...)
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Sorry i think i posted this in the wrong forum...
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Hey guys, i bought a defective mainboard off ebay, just for fun and for the challenge to learn smth. first i thought the problem would be the bent CPU socket pins, fortunately it wasnt that bad so after an hour i got all of them straight and in the correct position as good as new. If i'm turning the system on, it provides energy to the cpu (since it gets warm) and at least the fans (havent checked more so far) but the display stays completely black in all possible configs. after disassembling again, i noticed a rather small and not very deep scratch (possibly caused by a uncorrect mounted backplate). the paint coat is missing and you can see the copper inside but its not as deep as it goes through the copper. I'm just wondering how to fix this? Could this be the reason for it beeing defective or is this not that severe? tried my best to take a picture, i hope someone knows something
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Hi I want to Update/upgrade my pc. The question is if I should get a new mobo for my i73820 (lga2011 ) which are crazy expensive or get a i74770k/i74790k and get a 1150 mobo. Thx Tom
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Hey guys I have a question I want to get a new pc for gaming and streaming but I have to build it on a budget. I want to get: - Mainboard: H97 Gaming 4 - CPU Cooler: Cooling Hydro Series H55 (just for the look) - RAM: HyperX Beast Series DDR 2400 8 GB - and a Xeon E3-1231 V3 or a i5 4690 what should i get for streaming and playing I've heard that the Xeon is like a i7 for the price of a i5 but many friends say that the Xeon is Bullshit.... so I'm a bit desperate and confused would be nice if you can help me I'm sorry for my english too... 1MR
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- e3-1231 v3 or i5 4690
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Hi LTT-forum, I guess you get these kinds of questions a lot, but I don't know where else to turn to: I have a spare Asus Crosshair V Formula board and I would really like to run it with the cheap AMD Athlon II X2 260u and this (8GB Kingston ECC Ram) memory stick. However both are not listed as recommended CPU/RAM. In terms of recommended memory, for some reason there is only 1,2 and 4GB ECC RAM listed, shouldn't the other one work just fine? I'd appreciate any kind of advice or recommendations. Thank you very much!
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Reference: I am currently building a Desk PC (ie building a Desk with a computer inside the desk, not below it). But I ran into an information problem when I tried to add all 12 mounting threads as described on page 10 of version 2.2 of the ATX specification... Where are the positions exactly? All my MoBos are only using the holes A,C,F,H,K,L and M. So my question is: Where are the other holes? ( answers like "G is 12mm down and 24mm right of A" would be extremely helpful) EDIT: for reference http://www.formfactors.org/developer/specs/atx2_2.pdf
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Hello forum, my mainboard (Asrock p67 extreme 4) seems to have died and I need a new one. Linus said time and time again that the mainboard choice does not really matter for performance so I looked for a cheap board that could house my hardware: i5-2500k Sapphire R9 380X Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) RAM Samsung 830 Pro (I think) SSD (so it should have Sata III) However I found the choices quite confusing (all the different chipsets and such). I thought about just buying the same model I already had just because I know it works but wanted to ask you guys first about your opinion. I don't have any special requirements. What should I go with? Can you recommend a cheaper mainboard that works with my hardware? Thanks, Hendrikto
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Hello, I am currently on CPUID HWMonitor, I've completed my first PC assembly and played about two hours of GTA now and everything is stable. However I've noticed that the temperature of my mainboard is listed as 117C which I highly doubt is normal. I've switched my fans to run as fast as they can (one exhaust, one intake) and ontop of my CPU I have a Hyper 212 Evo. However the temperature is very high, the parts came today. A screenshot of CPUID HWMonitor displaying the temps of my PC since its first proper boot - http://prntscr.com/9lot88 Is it something I should worry about? My case is stone cold and taking off the top cover of the case theirs basically no warm air I can feel. If it's needed my case is a Corsair 330R.
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Hello guys , tommorow I will be able to pick up an ASUS MAXIMUS VI HERO dirt cheap. I am intending to use it with a Xeon 1231v3 which is unfortunately not officially supported so I wanted to ask you if anyone has an Idea if it is compatible. Thanks in advance
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Hi guys I need a new/want a new Motherboard. The problem is that I cant find any mobos with LGA 2011 and a x79 chipset which are quite inexpensive (not more than 200-250 Euro).pls help mee:D
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Heya everybody. I'm currently running an ASUS Sabertooth Z77 together with a 3570k but recently noticed that my CPU is probably going to die soon after 3 years of running on 4.7Ghz. Alrighty, no problem so far, 3 years is a good lifespan for this much OC'ing i think. So i'd love to upgrade to the 4790K and Z97 platform and wanted to go for the Z97 Sabertooth because, well, once i had that thermal armor i just can't go back, lol. I've noticed that it's not available anymore in the store where i usually buy parts. (Alternate) Soo.. i've been looking for alternatives and found one from Biostar, which always was more of a cheap brand back in the days and i don't really know how good they are nowadays so i could use your help. Does anybody here have feedback or maybe a somewhat trustworthy review of the "Biostar Gaming Z97X" ? It's the closest board to the Sabertooth i think since the Maximus 7 is around 160€ more expensive. Here's a picture : Thanks in advance
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Hello there i'm new to that forum and also new to overclocking. I just recently put in a new CPU Watercooler in my system so i thought i could try out some CPU overclocking. Unfortunately i'm an idiot and played around with easytune 6 autotune. Not a good idea... BSOD at around 4.8 Ghz (and around 70 degree celsius according to coretemp) and from then on system doesn't boot up again. The fans go on for a few seconds and then the PC shuts itself down again. I tried clearing the CMOS, removing the mainboard battery for 10 minutes or so nothing helped. I also took out the CPU to see if there are any visible burns but i couldn't find anything. Any suggestions? Is something fried? If yes how could i find out what it is? unfortunately have no spare hardware parts lying around... Btw System Specs: Gigabyte z77x-ud3h I7 3770k 16 Gb G Skill Ripjaws Gtx 770
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So, my brothers mainboard broke down a couple of months ago, and he's been saving up since. The time has finally come to get a new board, which I have to help him with, the problem being that the only Z77 (He has an i5 3570K) board available right now, is a Sapphire "PURE Platinum Z77 PT-CI7Z77". The only thing I know about Sapphire products, is that their GPU's are quite decent. Which leads me to the main question: What about the Motherboard? This thing needs to last at least about 2½ - 4 years. My own MSI Z97-GD65 has lasted me 3 years, and they're around the same price range so it doesn't seem unreasonable. And yes, it's a must to get a Z77 chipset... Thanks in advance!
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So I have an Asus F2A85-M LE but i can't overclock my 750k with it... (There are no options in the bios) Is it just cause im a newbie or was that mb to cheap for overclocking? -ytotheali