Search the Community

I have an LG smart TV (UQ7570PUJ) running Web OS v7.4.0-1903. I decided to turn on the reduced blue light mode by going to settings>all settings>picture>advanced>reduced blue light. It worked, but now I cannot turn it off. Going to that same menu, the option is grayed out as shown in the attachment. Selecting it does nothing. I have tried resetting my picture settings in that same menu with no change. I tried switching picture modes and the reduced blue light mode stays on and I still cannot turn it off. Has anyone seen anything like this? I'm sure I can do a full reset to get it back to normal, but that's annoying and means I can't practically use the reduced blue light mode in the future. TIA

It was backlight bleed as it didn't improve from different distances, angles or brighter room. Additionally the bleed is visible during normal content as a washed out color area forms where the bleed is strongest, meaning it doesn't depend on the content on screen, which is the backlight. See my last comment for the full explanation and image. Unfortunately I'm not at home but as soon as I'm back I'll add more photos. So last week I decided to buy this 2023 LG GP95RP-B 400 nits IPS (on the left, while on the right is a Samsung G3 VA 250 nits) that retailed for 650+ EUR and I got it for 485 form LG itself. Colors, brightness, contrast...all is good, except for the IPS glow, which is too strong even with my 2000nits lightbulb. In the photo you can see the glow in the corners, the areas where it's darker is just Local Dimming, which gives a good black level, whereas with LD off the entire screen looks like those corners and it's unbearable. It's a pretty uniform bad glow and even getting farther doesn't do much. My Legion 5 15ARH7H 300 nits IPS is magnitudes better, so much so that I watch movies on it. Even my cheapo Dell S2319H form 2018 has lower IPS glow. Could it be a bad run? Should I ask for a replacement? Thank a lot, really appreciate.

I recently got an LG Ultragear 34GN850-B, things have been fine but recently my computer has been completely shutting down at random. It will try to boot up right after but it won't be successful. When I go to my event viewer it tells me this: The AMDRyzenMasterDriverV20 service failed to start due to the following error: The system cannot find the file specified. I'm pretty sure these crashes only started happening after I updated my amd driver. Could it be possible that some combination of the updated driver and my LG monitor is the cause of my computer crashes? I've since switched back to my old Gigabyte monitor and haven't experienced a crash yet, will update if it does crash at some point. Spent a pretty penny on the LG though and would hate to have to stop using it so I'd appreciate any help and suggestions. Computer specs: 5800X3D 6750xt 750w Rosewill PSU 32GB DDR4 ram

I can't find any reviews on this specific model... planning on buying for casual gaming and casual photo/video editing. it's 1920x1080, IPS, 100Hz

Hey, i want to buy a new TV, 4k, min. 55 inch Budget ist 600€ max. Should have jellyfin without to Sideload IT. LG's WebOS has Jellyfin App. Im looking For a TV with a great Screen, usecase is BlueRay, SteamDeck, Jellyfin and NintendoSwitch. So 120hz native Not needed. ATM i own a ~13 Year old FHD LG 3D TV without any Smart Features. Thx For Help.

Hi! I have had my LG 38GL950G for a while now (since late 2019) The fan(s) has started to make a hissing/high pitched sound, only when the monitor is on. As i don't use headphones when i am at my computer it gets really straining after a while. I am super happy with the monitor and am not really looking to change. So i was thinking of opening it up and changing the fans both the cooling fan and the G-sync fan. to something a bit more "quality" and quiet. I have been looking online for and have seen people do this but not to the G-sync fan. My fear is that changing the G-sync fan can brick the monitor. Has anyone done this? am i better off just starting to use headphones than going through all this trouble? Any advice is welcome! Thank you!

Some reviews say it doesn't however in the manual it says it support but doesn't specify whether at 165 hz or not. In this indian site it says only 16 million color Also I am purchasing it in India and I downloaded the manual from lg hong kong. Link of product in amazon india https://amzn.eu/d/bQNHTWN ENG.pdf

I got a second hand TV (LG 49UH603V-ZE) and the guy swears it worked fine. After I plugged it in it seems to go blurry with lines (as seen in video) and back to normal again. Anyone know what causes this and If I can fix it? Even if it means opening it up and replacing something. PXL_20231127_101728592.TS.mp4

I am currently looking to upgrade from my aoc 24g2 and wanted to try 1440p. Im trying to decide which monitor is best for me. Honestly would love to try mini led since i also use my monitor to watch movies a lot and 240hz isn't a big deal for me with the LG. What are your thoughts on both monitors?

Hey guys, The Issue So I've purchased LG's 27GN800 a couple of days ago. I'm running into this error "an incorrect displayport version setting will cause the screen to be blank". I've tried switching the display port version to 1.2, and 1.1, but when I switch the versions I get this instead "No Signal, Entering Power Saving Mode". I get this issue whenever I'm playing games. Yesterday, I was playing GTA V and the monitor just went blank when a cut scene started. I also tried launching Sons Of The Forest, and the monitor immediately went blank. I was using display port version 1.4 while doing this. After a couple of tries I switched the dp version to 1.2 and capped the monitor to 120hz, and everything was working fine again, but the next day same thing happened again. So I messed with the refresh rate and fps cap again and it was working again for a while but then I got the same blank screen but this time it showed "No Signal, Entering Power Saving Mode" instead of "an incorrect displayport version setting will cause the screen to be blank". The displayport version setting error goes away whenever I switch to dp version 1.2 or 1.1. One thing that occurred to me is that the monitor is going blank whenever I hit a certain refresh rate or a resolution. I could be wrong though, but this is the only thing that makes sense to me. I'm not sure if it's a combination of both or it's one of those two or what's the specific refresh rate. I have tried doing the same with hdmi cable, but I get "no signal". At this point capping the refresh rate at 60hz works most of the times, but I want to utilize 144hz which is supported by my monitor. I have reached out to LG but their Engineer's don't know a thing about this. Solutions that I have and found and tried. I have tried installing latest graphic card driver, and the monitor driver. It doesn't work, the only difference I saw was the monitor was identifying as "PnP Generic Monitor" in device manager before I installed the latest drivers. After updating the monitor drivers it identified as "LGUltraGear DisplayPort". I have tried unplugging ever cable and letting it sit like that for 30 seconds but the issue still persists. The CPU stays on, but the monitor goes blank. The graphic cards fan is spinning and the temperature's are also normal. 40-45 while idle and 80 when I play something like GTA or Cyberpunk 2077. I have tried uninstalling graphic drivers in safe mode by using Display Driver Uninstaller I have tried resetting my monitor's settings. Here are my specs. GeForce® RTX 2060 SUPER™ GAMING OC 3X 8G (rev. 2.0) (I have read somewhere that 2060 has 1.4a dp version, but it should be backwards compatible, right? correct me if I'm wrong) AMD Ryzen 5 3600X 6-Core Processor Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4 3200MHZ Cooler Master MWE 650w Power Supply

Wanting to upgrade my monitor. Never had an ultrawide and I'm torn on these two. Any advice or suggestions? I know the LG one has HDR but the MSI one doesn't. I'm leaning more to the LG MSI- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08S8W3MMM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&th=1 LG- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B928B6BC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

I have tried updating drivers re plugging everything, restarting and nothing seems to get rid of them they are not showing up when the PC is turned off and they are weirdly similar to the color of my background (that's why I was thinking that it could also be Windows somehow) but if I have other apps open I can still see them, I noticed my colors were fucked a few hours ago in my background it was all distorted and then I restarted everything back to normal but those green dots, side note is that my screen sometimes freezes and starts glitching (like matrix glitches type thing idk how to explain better) and the only thing that fixes it is unplugging power and plugging it back but that has been happening some time and it never had the green dots so I'm not sure if it's related probably? I need help this shit is annoying

Hello LTT Community, I am rebuilding a Mackie DXB 200, it's essentially a console that hosts it's OS on Windows 32Bit Systems. Currently, I plan to have the system run Windows POS Ready 32bit in the endgame, and I am compiling components based off of an upgrade list Provided from a group chat. Due to TOS i can't really share the guide I'm following but I can share the purchase list from Ebay! My main concerns are that the parts are scarce and i want to be clear, i want to follow the guide word for word to avoid FF-ing shiz up. Apparently the Mackie Software is just that unstable and finicky. The RAM is the culprit in question. I will be Able to buy either: 1. 1x Stick of 4gb 2. 1x Stick of 8gb 3. 2x Sticks of 8gb for 16gb 4. 4 Sticks of 8gb for 32gb I know a 32bit system is only going to be capable of 4gbs, but I want to make use of dual channel on the MB. Is it safe to drop the 16gb set in my MB? Or should I just stick with one stick of 4gb ram? Another question would be if I am good with the components Here? It looked like nothing was incompatible, but a second pair of eyes would be nice. Thanks guys!

Hey guys I’m kinda mixed in feelings. I own a BX6 for about 3 and a half. Amazing TV but missing the DTS forced me to use plex. Well life is that way. Now I wanna improve. I don’t have a sitting room so I will be using my desk and the bed as a couch. Distance is about max 2m. Now I’m using the LG of 55”. I’m considering to move to a 65” if doesn’t hurt the quality vs distance ofc. Also the prices in my country are different The LG C3 55” costs about 1499€ and the 65” costs 1999€ Samsungs S90C costs about the same for 55” but has a higher cost for 65” at 2249€ Oh then we have the G3. Sadly I will need a stand and I refuse to buy a original LG stand. There are alternatives I’m sure like the once used in this review channel. Costs about 40€ of that much. The 55” model costs 1789€ and 65” 2489€. So what model would u get!? I see alote movies and TV Shows. Mostly quality contente but I also own some low resolution shows. Gaming tes for sure. I own a PS5 and XSX

Hello There, I recently purchased LG ultragear 24GN65R, but when I connect it to my pc, it says "no signal detected". I tried both Display port and HDMI port, I even tried another HDMI cable to see if cable is damaged, but none of them worked. My gpu is 1050 ti. My old monitor works perfectly but it is connected via Dvi port. Perhaps problem is my gpu ports? I tried to connect my old monitor with HDMI instead of DVi and it didn't work. Any ideas?

After watching the Linus review of the LG FP9's I ended up getting them, and the Sony LinkBuds to try out. Like Linus, I sleep with headphones in, and wanted to get something wireless to replace the old corded headphones I'd been using (because kids like to grab). The Sony's unfortunately were too big for my ears and actively hurt to wear, but the FP9's were super comfortable and great to sleep in. Honestly, I really really want to like them. I even bought a second pair when the first shit the bed, but I just can't justify buying a third pair in a year and a half. I saw a similar post about it, but basically the two halves come apart very very early on in owning them, especially if you are wearing them often. My first pair I admit to dropping a few times as I got used to carrying around the case and because little kids find things they aren't supposed to, so I chalked the damage to me. Both devices came apart and had to be glued back together; though even that didn't last forever. Eventually (within a few months of owning them), one ear stopped working completely. I figured my self-glue job would void any warranty so I didn't bother calling support and just ordered a second pair. Well, now that set is doing the same thing. I haven't had an ear stop working yet so they are still functional, but I imagine it is only a matter of time because the right side falls apart all the time now. Same glue issue, but without the drops or kids playing with them. Now, I need to find a replacement, but it's hard to evaluate headphones out there without dropping tons of money I don't have. As I said, I really really like most of the stuff with the FP9's, they last a long time (especially since I only do audio books and not music, so no bass or any other power drains), and they're comfortable for me. So are there any suggestions on ear buds I might like as a replacement? As a side note before anyone suggests them, I hated the old apple earphones; so the PTSD of the pain they caused my ears to wear makes me hesitant to ever try the AirPods or whatever they're called, as I imagine it's more of the same. Thanks for any help!

OMG! LG did it perfectly! The HDR is perfect, no washed out like Asus did on ROG Swift OLED PG42UQ. The default profile preset is already good. The only I change at the moment is disable the Power Saving mode. In short summary, Perfect HDR preset, no washed-out issue. Perfect games optimized mode. Consistency brightness when set as PC mode, no ABL kick-in. The curve 50% just nice for productivity. Unbelievable great sound, not like my LG C9 which sound terrible. Great screen coating use, it still glossy but well blocking the reflections. The cons Freaking heavy! No idea why they need revert to flat when you power off or they return to standby mode. This seems increase the bending if you use curve always.

I recently bought a RX 6650 XT. I'm trying to connect the HDMI cable to my LG 4k TV HDMI. However, when I connect the HDMI of the TV to the PC it doesn't give any signal. Previously I owned a 1050 Ti and got video with the same cable. I have tried changing the resolution of the TV through Windows and reversing the cable ends, however I have not been successful. I used the same cable to connect to a Notebook and got video. I was wondering what I can do to get video on my TV. System: MOBO: ASRock B450M Pro4-F | CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600 AF | RAM: 2x8Gb XPG DDR4 3200Mhz | GPU: MSi RTX 6650 XT | Monitor: Acer VG24DY | Power Supply: Redragon RGPS-500W Thanks!

I'm getting a No Signal message when trying to turn on my new monitor. It is a LG UltraGear QHD 27-Inch Gaming Monitor 27GL83A-B. I've tried both HDMI ports in the back of the monitor and the Display Port as well. Plugged in both in the back of the PC. The following happens: HDMI in, DP out, "No signal. Please check your connection. HDMI 2 input is connected. Click Ok to automatically switch to HDMI 2 input" -> couple of seconds -> "No signal. Entering the power saving mode shortly. An incorrect DisplayPort version setting will cause the screen to be blank. If this occurs, make sure the DisplayPort version setting of your monitors matches the device its connected to." HDMI out, DP in, ^ above second message immediately HDMI in, DP in, ^ same Switching to HDMI1 via the monitor controls, gives me the following message "No signal. Please check your connection. The signal is connected to another input. Click Ok and select another input in the input menu." I plugged the HDMI into my laptop and it works fine. I don't have a DP port to test. I don't have extra HDMI/DP cables. Monitor manual states nothing except how to plug the cables in, which I checked. Motherboard doesn't state anything either. The cables are plugged into the GPU, not motherboard. CPU, GPU, and base Case fans are all working. Lights are on, no beep codes or two-digit codes. Keyboard is plugged into the motherboard, it doesn't light up though and it isn't turned on. Everything is new. I reset the monitor settings via the menu, nothing changes, same errors. I find where it states the DisplayPort Version. Its currently set to 1.4, with options 1.2 and 1.1 open. I tried all three, didn't fix anything. I made sure to check all connections. The GPU apparently has DisplayPort outputs of 1.4a. Is this an issue when the monitor can only go to 1.4? I'm all out of ideas. Please help. The GPU is PNY GeForce RTX 4070 Ti 12GB XLR8 Gaming Verto Epic-X RGB Triple Fan Graphics Card DLSS 3 The motherboard is GIGABYTE B650M K (AM5/ LGA 1718/ AMD/ B650/ Micro-ATX Memory is D532GB 6000-32 Ripjaws S5 wh K2 GSK | F5-6000J3238F16GX2-RS5W Fan is Thermalright Peerless Assassin 120 CPU Air Cooler, 6 Heatpipes,Dual 120mm TL-C12 PWM Fan SSD is Intel 670p Series M.2 2280 2TB PCI-Express 3.0 x4 QLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) SSDPEKNU020TZX1 PSU is Enermax Revolution D.F. 2 850W Full Modular Power Supply (80 Plus Gold Certified CPU is AMD Ryzen™ 7 7700X 8-Core, 16-Thread Unlocked Desktop Processor

So I have this LG TV (model: 47LN5790-UI) that I have replaced the LED back light panel this would be the third time. When I turn it on it flashes and then turns black. Sometimes I get the LG logo and I can see the image with a flashlight but sometimes is just black. I opened it again to see if I was missing something but dont know anything about TVs to know if there’s a problem. I did test the LED lights and the ones labeled as R1 and R2 (three of each) dont turn on unless I test the individual lights but all the ones labeled as L1 and L2 work. I uploaded some pictures of the back and boards. I also noticed the cable that goes from the board to the lights the table looks burnt

The issue I'm facing is large, very annoying cutouts of audio while watching content that is played by my desktop that is hooked to my LG 55" (55UQ8000). The audio cutout last for upwards of 3-5 seconds and occur every 4-5 minutes. My main output is the HDMI cable from my 6700xt AMD GPU in my desktop to my TV, which then has an optical audio cable that goes from the TV to a 7.1 surround sound bar. Thinking that the issue was a substandard HDMI cable, I switched out the one that came with the TV for one that is certified for 8k@60htz (IVANKY brand) and issue still persists. It should be worth noting that nothing played natively on the TV has this same issue (so the netflix app for example). It also does not matter at what refresh rate, video resolution, or if HDR is on/off that I send to the TV from my desktop, the audio issue still occurs when the audio is also sent. However, if I do send video the TV, but use windows to route audio to the 5.1 receiver (via a soundcard in my PC with an optical cable) I use for when I'm only using my desktop, I get no such audio cut outs on that. The issue only stems when I put audio + video to my TV. Currently I have it using 4k@23.976hz with audio. (The low refresh rate is fine for me as I primarily use it from watching anime.) Would an HDMI cable certified for 8k60htz really struggle with the bandwidth this much to play 4k with audio? My main question is, what do I try now to resolve the issue? Should I swap out the HDMI cable again? The optical cable from the TV to the soundbar? Or is this a case of the LG tv's processor simply not being able to handle audio + video from an external source? Maybe some kind of AMD/Windows/LG setting that can correct this? Thanks to any who answer.

So, I bought about a week ago a new laptop - didn't really use a modern laptop for over 6 years as I've been using mostly desktops and decided to go with an LG Gram 17 (17Z90R) I've had it for just over a week and something weird happened twice already. The laptop goes to sleep (lid closed) and after some time when I go back to the laptop, it just won't wake up. The power LED blinks, the LED of the camera activated (to use Windows Hello to enter?) but there is no image, fans don't spin, no video output to external display, no keyboard backlight. Pressing the button power button for 5 seconds until the power LED stops blinking and then turning it back on "solves" it - power on normally. It has enough battery (>50% both times) I heard some months ago about a Windows standy issue but it doesn't seem related to this behavior. Is this something software related or do I have a potential hardware issue?

I have an LG 27GL650F-B 27 Gaming monitor. I have been recently using it as a secondary display on my M1 Max 16" Macbook Pro with no problems whatsoever. However, today this happened when a static image of YouTube was left open for a couple of hours. It stays like this even when no input is connected to the display, I have tried turning it off and on, unplugging it, and switching inputs, and nothing has fixed it. Does anyone have any idea what this glitch is? Thanks! (also the lines are there too, its not from my phones camera)

So, I usually don't have any problems with the GPU, but the problem comes when 120Hz at 4K are combined, I have a 1440p monitor that goes up to 165Hz and I never had the same problem, so I use my 4K 120Hz LGTV when I play single player games, but when I set it to its full 4K120 it starts to randomly go black for a single (1) second, every 6 to 10 minutes I'm not sure, I don't know if its my TV or my GPU, it happens in games or outside games, just happens randomly, drivers are updated for both my PC and my TV, I'm not sure that size matters but my second guess besides the GPU being the problem is that the TV is 86 inches and maybe something that big cant refresh that fast, guys I dunno it might sound stupid for you but I'm pulling my (soon to be bald head) hairs trying to understand the problem. RIG Ryzen 5 5600x Overclocked to 4.65Ghz with PBO, Properly water-cooled with the 360mm radiator Artic AIO that I forgot the name RTX 3080FE 10Gb non LHR 32Gb of Ram CL16 3200MHz 750W Cooler master PSU with 1Tb Samsung 980 Pro and an Msi motherboard that I forgot the name but the chip is B550

Hi guys, I have found a great deal on a LG OLED C1 65 inch and TCL 6r6 75 inch for the same price. Which one should I get? I know the TCL may get brighter but no mini led tv can beat the inky blacks of Oled. At this point I really dont know, and going to the store to look at them doesnt help because of the lights. I don't care about the OS they use cause I always use my apple TV. I watch tv in a dark environment which pushes me towards the LG but the bigger size of the TCL is also appealing. Helpppppp I willl choose whatever the majority chooses LG C1 Screen size: 65 inches Resolution: 3,840 x 2,160 HDR: Dolby Vision, HDR10, HLG Refresh rate: 120 Hz Ports: 4 HDMI 2.1 (1 with eARC), 3 USB Smart TV software: webOS G-sync and Free-sync TCL R646 Screen size: 75 nches Resolution: 3,840x2,160 HDR: HDR10, HDR10+, HLG, Dolby Vision Refresh Rate: 144 Hz Ports: 4 HDMI, 1 USB Audio: 2 (10+10) Smart TV Software: Roku TV Free sync