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Showing results for tags 'lcd'.
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First I'll preface saying that, as far as I can tell, I'm posting this in the correct place. If this belongs in the "reviews" sub-forum, I apologize; I figured this information is most relevant to this community. So over the past few years I've had the pleasure of experiencing all sorts of monitors and TVs and I wanted to share my insights to give some perspective to potential buyers, or those curious. The "reviews" will be in chronological order of when I first owned the display, but feel free to skip around or only look at what interests you. I imagine the last few are going to by far the most interesting, but I felt it useful to include everything for use of comparison. Displays I still own will be Italicized and reviews I find will be particularly interesting will be bolded. Acer V233H (23" 1080p TN LCD) Acer GD235HZbid (23.6" 1080p 120hz TN LCD) ASUS PB238Q (23" 1080p e-IPS LCD) Samsung U28D590D (28" 4k TN LCD) Samsung Syncmaster 1200NF (22" CRT 1600x1200@85hz) LG 34UM95 (34" 3440x1440 (Non-curved) IPS LCD) Acer K242HQKbmjdp (24" 4k IPS LCD) AMH A399U (40" 4k VA LCD) Dell D2015H (20" 1080p TN LCD) Dell 2007FP (~20" 1600x1200 TN(?) LCD) HP Z27q (27" 5k IPS LCD) Sony 34XBR960 (34" CRT TV 1080i (1440x1080 pixels)) LG OLED55B7A (55" OLED 4k HDR TV) And that's that. I hope you all enjoyed. -
Okay, so my 60D started to have this weird flickering on the LCD the other day. It started subtle when just switching from live view to review. Then, it got a lot worse no matter which position the LCD is in. All the overlays spazz out when trying to change my settings. Not really sure what this issue is since some places say it's the LCD and others say it's the shutter engine. Any help is appreciated!
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Hello, I have a ZTE Z812 which I believe has a dead/broken LCD. The phone powers on and the volume rockers are responsive and the speaker still makes the notification noises. The notification dot of color at the top also functions. Just the display only shows all white when powered on. Would this kit work to fix the phone? http://www.ebay.com/itm/182397718541?var=484973222601 Regards, Richard
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Ok so my monitor got dropped by an excited 4 year old during a house move, it looks like the top frame has come into contact with a ribbon on the top control board connecting to the digitizer, anyone know if or how you can fix this?! Its the control board which attaches directly to the screen digitizer, attached via a ribbon cable to the main control unit. Sorry if your a repair man and I am using all the wrong names of stuff but i think with the pictures it will all make sense.... This is the digitizer with the back light removed: Here is the blown one, the metal/magnetic bar has snapped and blown and when powered up it heats up incredibly and causes a black/strippy bar down that segment of the screen... Here is a picture of another ribbon which hasn't blown for comparison...
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I have attached pictures of the screen in question and the connectors, how hard would it be to make it accept vga or hdmi or something?
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Been discussing this with many people in the last couple of weeks, that with the amount of OLED phones coming out most say people that LCD will only be used in Low End phones until OLED replaces them. Funny enough, Android Authority did a great article regarding LCD future and how it might come back in the end to save us all in terms of Hi Res Panels. The article starts with discussing that the issue is that neither LCD nor OLED panels offer 100 percent efficient light output. Some of the light produced is lost or blocked by other essential display components. In the LCD space, the backlight has to pass through filters, which aren’t 100 percent efficient, and the pixel controlling transistor also takes up a notable amount of space that blocks some light in every sub-pixel More info on the article, here Great read for panels enthusiasts like me. -
BEFORE I START, YES I KNOW IT'S A MONITOR FROM 2003 AND THAT I SHOULD PROBABLY REPLACE IT, BUT I DON'T HAVE THE MONEY TO DO SO. SO PLEASE DON'T POST ANYTHING ALONG THE LINES OF "Oh just replace it" BECAUSE THAT IS OF NO USE TO ME AT THIS TIME. Thank you. I have an old LCD display (an HP Pavilion vf15) that doesn't work anymore. When it turns on, it shows my desktop, for a brief second then "washes" to white. I'd like to take a stab at repairing it if at all possible, and I'm just wanting to put some feelers out there on what the issue may be. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eOu5yQfpHcWS4LfqiHNCXprTyO3x-G8rFA/view?usp=sharing This is a link to a vid displaying the issue. Currently I'm using a Zotac GTX 970 with driver version 376.33 (the most recent version) but I've tested it with an old computer running Ubuntu. I highly doubt that this would cause the issue but I'd like to account for all possibilities.
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i would like to change the io on my dell optiplex 780 i want to incorporate some toggle switches maybe a key switch and probably a lcd voltage indicator instead of a hdd activity light could also put lcd for power lights too maybe a lcd out of a old music system that shows stuff in bars
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So I have the grove starter kit for the Arduino Uno (https://www.seeedstudio.com/Grove-Starter-Kit-for-Arduino-p-1855.html#) and have started to play around with it, but what I am trying to do now it when you click the button that comes with the starter kit it changes the text on the LCD screen that comes in the starter kit also. I have tried to get it working but I can't. My Code: #include <Wire.h> #include "rgb_lcd.h" rgb_lcd lcd; // constants won't change. They're used here to // set pin numbers: const int buttonPin = 2; // the number of the pushbutton pin // variables will change: int buttonState = 0; // variable for reading the pushbutton status void setup() { // initialize the pushbutton pin as an input: pinMode(buttonPin, INPUT); // set up the LCD's number of columns and rows: lcd.begin(16, 2); // Print a message to the LCD. lcd.print("System Enabled!"); } void loop(){ } void activate(){ // read the state of the pushbutton value: buttonState = digitalRead(buttonPin); // check if the pushbutton is pressed. // if it is, the buttonState is HIGH: if (buttonState == HIGH) { lcd.print("System Disabled!"); } if (buttonState == LOW) { lcd.print("System Enabled!"); } } Thanks!
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Hi, I would like to know how to remove lighter blemishes on the screen, particularly noticeable at high brightness, from the screen of my B50-80 Lenovo Laptop (80EW00HEUK), and if not, would a screen from a similar B50-80 laptop suffice as a replacement, particularly a spare screen for a B50-80 (80EW02A9US). Thanks
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Why is the LCS Screen with i2c not working? int ledPin = 13; // IR LED connected to digital pin 13 volatile byte rpmcount; unsigned int rpm; unsigned long timeold; #include <Wire.h> #include <LiquidCrystal_I2C.h> LiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(0x20,16,2); void rpm_fun() { //Each rotation, this interrupt function is run twice, so take that into consideration for //calculating RPM //Update count rpmcount++; } void setup() { lcd.init(); lcd.backlight(); //Interrupt 0 is digital pin 2, so that is where the IR detector is connected //Triggers on FALLING (change from HIGH to LOW) attachInterrupt(0, rpm_fun, FALLING); //Turn on IR LED pinMode(ledPin, OUTPUT); digitalWrite(ledPin, HIGH); rpmcount = 0; rpm = 0; timeold = 0; } void loop() { //Update RPM every second delay(1000); //Don't process interrupts during calculations detachInterrupt(0); //Note that this would be 60*1000/(millis() - timeold)*rpmcount if the interrupt //happened once per revolution instead of twice. Other multiples could be used //for multi-bladed propellers or fans rpm = 30*1000/(millis() - timeold)*rpmcount; timeold = millis(); rpmcount = 0; //Print out result to lcd lcd.clear(); lcd.print("RPM="); lcd.print(rpm); //Restart the interrupt processing attachInterrupt(0, rpm_fun, FALLING); }
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So I have this MacBook Pro 13" Early 2015 and its display got damaged. I have mistakenly already bought the LCD panel and not the Display Assembly which would have been easier to fix, so what is done is done now. I am thinking of attempting this fix by myself cause no re-seller or third party accepting the job of fixing it. And, yes I have opened a MacBook before just, not the LCD. If I take it to professionals abroad it is going to take more than the cost of the laptop itself. The suggestion I am looking for is which adhesive should I be using to stick my LCD and the Assembly if you know what I am talking about please suggest to me something. Are 3m Double Sided Foam Adhesive Tapes good for the job?
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I am using rx580 and I get around 100-180 fps in mostly games I play(apex,csgo,fortnite, dota etc) . I am using asus vg248qe with freesync. Is it worth selling this and buying lcd with freesync? I have xg2401 for 250$ and samsung s25hg50(170$ open box) and hp omem 25(170$ open box) . My question is should i change to freedsync? Currently I am able to sell my lcd for 160$ so I will just have to spend extra 10$ to get one of the open box options or should I buy new xg2401? Please help me out to deside if it us worth getting freesync over non freesync 144hz.
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So my tv got hit with a power surge and I had to get a new board. Put it in and now I have these things at the top of my screen and are evenly spaced out. What are they? Can I get rid of them? The display is a Philips LCD 42PFL3603D/F7, and the board I got to replace it both had the same pcb number and model (PLHL-T721A). The original was newer though.
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See uploaded image. Does anyone knows what causes this and how to fix it? Or can it be fixed. Doesn't anyone have this problem? I bought three of the LG 27UD68-P monitors and all are exhibiting the same behavior. Started within the first six months and gradually got worse. Had these monitors less than 18 months now and this is the result. My Samsungs' 226BW are still going strong after 13+ years. Can anyone help?
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I'm looking to purchase a new TV for my new Apartment's living room. I originally took advantage of Best Buy's Black Friday in July deal for the Sony XBR-65X950G for $1,499.99. Then I went to the local Furniture Market called Nebraska Furniture market and they had the LG OLED55C9PUA on sale for $1769.99. I'm trying to debate if I should keep the 65" Sony or go with the OLED TV. I normally play GTA V, Red Dead Redemption 2 and a few other open-world titles between my PS4 Pro and Xbox One X. I also stream a lot of my content as well vai Hulu, Netflix, and Amazon prime Video.
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I have an hp L2335 monitor that belonged to my grandfather, it's from ~2005 and is a 16:10 1920x1200 monitor, for outputs it has composite, component, s-video, VGA, digital and analogue DVI, from what I have seen on the internet, it had an msrp of $1,699 in 2004, adjusted for inflation, would now cost $2,303 in today's money, the review I found for it lauded it for having a "super-smooth" and "extremely fast" response time of 16 ms, and in the summary, it says that it it plays games just as good as CRT monitors of the time. This thing works perfectly with my HDMI laptop with an HDMI to DVI adapter, no issues whatsoever. https://www.digitaltrends.com/monitor-reviews/hp-l2335-review/
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I have a lcd laptop inbuilt display and wish to own a led one because my laptop has good specs but sucks at display. Is it possible to change form an inbuilt lcd to led screen??? If so please respond and if not please explain very curious to know Thank You.
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Hey guys. My dad is a big supplier for one of Canada's theme parks gift shops, and unfortunately one of the employees working there put tape on one of the TV screens (the thing where you roll it and then attach a sign to it) that are used to advertise product. The TV's aren't easily replaceable, and I'm pretty damn sure that you shouldn't be using goo gone on LCD/LED screens. Any idea on how we could safely remove the residue? Thanks.
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Hay everyone I am making a handheld retro gaming device with my pi ( I have the 3 b+ model) and I'm trying to get the display to work I have an old tablet screen that has a 50 pin connection is this what I need?? And is newegg a trusted wed site https://www.newegg.ca/p/0X6-04KT-0FMG3?item=9SIAK7M9JJ9846&source=googleshopping&nm_mc=knc-googleadwordscamkpl-mobile&cm_mmc=knc-googleadwordscamkpl-mobile-_-pla-fiercecool-_-pos+-+accessories-_-9SIAK7M9JJ9846&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6-z9wOiN5AIVjJ6zCh1wZgdREAkYByABEgJ6JPD_BwE The image below is my displays connector
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Hello there ! I got some issue with a laptop (HP ENVY DV6, which goes in (yes ... in ... with water and soap ...) the bathtub, for about half a second, only on a corner of the base. It didn't shut down by itself It features a i7-2610QM and a GT635M. Btw the specs don't really matters in my issue, as the laptop is all teared down, no drive, ni windows, no drivers implied. It dried out for several weeks, no water damage or stains visible. By the way, the laptop works perfectly, except for the LCD panel. Plugged in a external screen with HDMI / VGA works great, so no issue with the GPU. Cable ribbon looks in good shape, no change when shaking it. Connection cable-lcd panel also checked, no change. Issue is : the panel goes ON / full white / ON / full white and so on. Backlight is always on, no blinking. I get a footage of the screen, (the clicking noise, like a car blinker, comes from the camera, not the screen ?) So i'm wondering, before I order a new panel on ebay, is there anything more that I can check ? Thank you very much ? Jay HP-DV6.AVI
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I've been doing a lot of searching for a good monitor that will serve both gaming and workstation purposes. I was going for a 4K until discovering that it's still highly experimental and anything beyond 60Hz seemed only available on a 27" monitor, which I found a bit too small for that resolution. So I went on searching for a good 144Hz one that also uses IPS/VA panel technology due to better picture quality and viewing angle, only to read/hear in reviews they all have issues with backlight bleeding as well as test results showing slow response times. Now I find myself wondering whether I should invest in a 144Hz now or wait for new releases or buy something else. I currently have literally no monitor besides a 10 years old 42" 1080p LCD TV that burns your eyes. The new system will use a i9-9900K processor and 2080 Ti graphics card which I thought at least deserves a good monitor to work and play games with Because I don't plan on using this computer solely / primarily for gaming I thought it should be flat instead of curved These are a few considerable options when searching for a <4ms response time: Acer Predator XB271HU ViewSonic XG2703-GS Gigabyte Aorus AD27QD Asus MG279Q Asus ROG Swift PG279Q What do you think I should go for? Any (other) recommendations?
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Hello fellow PC maniacs, I have had 7 brand new unopened monitors in last week, 5 of them had one or more dead pixels, one had pressure damage and one had vertical lines on blue and yellow colors. I want IPS panel with 75hz since I like more vidid colors and wider viewing angle than TN and I want to utilize higher refresh rate in CS:GO and other FPS games. I can spend little bit more money on LCD, but I am afraid, that it does not make any difference regarding this issues. My PC is FX-8370 + GTX960 + 12GB RAM + 512 SSD, so Im okay with fullhd resolution. 2x AOC G2590VXQ - both had dead pixels 1x BenQ BL2480 - pressure damage + didnt support 75hz on native resolution (the seller claimed it does) 1x Acer Nitro RG270bmiix - no damage, but vertical lines on yellow and blue color on 75hz (they do not appear on 60hz) 3x Dell SE2717H - dead pixels on all of them (latest has only one dead red subpixel) Am I going crazy or is it super common to buy defective display? I have ordered last two, which Im gonna check in the evening, when they should arrive to shop. What will I do afterwards, I dont know, perhaps sell my pc and never go back again, this is killing me. What is your experience with buying displays, could you give me some hints so I can finally get out of this hell on earth?
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I have a phanteks eclipse p400s and was thinking of putting a screen inside the case (in the location outlined in red in the picture attached) there's a decent amount of space for a lcd or similar display. This would be my first time working with displays like this, I was wondering what would i need to do to get the display to go to my motherboard/graphics card would i need something like this? or this? and where would be the best place to start looking for a display for this application?
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So, i was watching youtube vids like one does, and the video below came to be via autoplay suggestion. TThe video covers how they've been rediscovering the advantages of CRT diplays for modern gaming. Wonder if LTT would do a video to test these out? A lot of what they say makes sense, but it's hard for me a -tropical pleb- to judge from watching a video.
