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Showing results for tags 'keyboard'.
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Im looking to get a new keyboard and mouse and i wanna know what are some good brands other than the classics like razer or logitech. -
Hello! First time poster here, so hopefully this is the right thread to post in. My micro USB port on my Havit HV-KB395L broke recently. I think it's just the inside of the port, not the pads themselves. I'm looking for some guidance on soldering a USB A cable directly to the pads. I've attached an image of the port- it looks like each of the pads that the micro USB port is soldered to has a trace that runs to the larger, CON2 pads, behind it. My plan was to ignore the port and solder the spliced USB cable directly onto those CON2 pads in the order (left to right) 1: vcc, 2: d-, 3: d+, 4: id (ignoring this one and not soldering it), 5: gnd. Is this correct? I can't find the pinout for the board, so I am not sure if there is a way to confirm what order the pads are in. If this configuration does not work, would the next guess be to reverse it? Thanks for your time!
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found this keyboard at goodwill for $15 anyone know how much its worth with keycaps (switches are mx red silents)
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PC specs: Processor: AMD FX 8120 125w with Thermaltake Contac 21 air cooler. Ram: Corsair vengeance DDR3 2x4 GB. Motherboard: Asus 970 PRO Gaming/AURA. SSD: Consistent M.2 NVME 512GB HDD: 1x Seagate Barracuda 2TB, Seagate Barracuda 80GB. Graphics Card: Zotac Nvidia GTX 1650. PSU: Corsair RM750e. Hi guys, Like the title says, I was using PS/2 keyboard until now recently brought Ant eSports KM1600 usb keyboard & Mouse combo every time I start my PC I have to unplug and replug my keyboard, and it then works fine. Though it didn't occur after a "Windows Restart" but only after disconnecting my PC from AC power source. I have tried in BIOS 1) Turning on & off usb 2.0 legacy, usb 3.0 legacy, EHCI hand-off 2) fast boot on & off with usb option on "Full initialisation" 3) gone through safe boot option there's nothing related to usb. I have tried in windows 1) Device Manager 2) Event Viewer Also tried changing to all usb port on motherboard & cabinet. In simple word my usb keyboard not getting power unless unplug & replug.
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I'm just looking for a good wrist rest to use. Any that I should avoid or that are "must have"?
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Hi I would very much like to buy a retro keyboard like the ones offered by 8bitdo. But I live in Norway and I would like to have a keyboard with a nordic layout. Any tips for good options there?
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i have an old lenovo notebook and its keyboard isn't working. i think its a software problem because the function keys work. here is the device manager details: model:ideapad 130-14IKB or 81H6
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Trying to decide on what to get for first mechanical keyboard. Open to suggestions please help me out. I've come across these ROYALAXE keyboards. I really like the one lookwise with the noctua brown color look.(I have screwdriver and fans) Price trying not to go crazy. 110-120 tops. I DO want number pad so full size or close to full. Not interested in a separate device for number pad. RGB I could take it or leave it. Backlighting would be nice but I don't need to look at a keyboard to know where keys are. I seem to like Gateron creamy yellow or just yellow switches. So ideally those or similar. I'm good with my hands so am capable of build kits if that is recommended. Limited-time deal: ROYALAXE R100 Wireless Mechanical Keyboard https://a.co/d/j4exyOl ROYALAXE L98 Wireless Mechanical Keyboard https://a.co/d/72gExI7 ROYALAXE Y98 Wireless RGB Mechanical Gaming Keyboard https://a.co/d/2zXCklD Montech MKey Mechanical Gaming Keyboard: https://a.co/d/9Naj8Pl Thanks in advance
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hello, is anyone here familiar with Alps keyboards? i got this Monterey K108 with White SKCM like a year ago from my colleague as a parting gift. the thing sounds absolutely superb, even if it's a bit plasticky for a vintage board. the switches were really fuckin scratchy. i spent a good while cleaning all of the top housing and slider for it to be usable. i wanted to try wax modding the switches, but i think they're beyond saving, so i thought it'd make much more sense to just desolder the switches and put on something new im thinking of saving up and getting some NOS SKCM Whites off ebay, but i gotta wait for my mate in the US to come home & smuggle the thing, because directly shipping things from the US to where i live (SEA) is like 3x of jeff bezos's net worth. either that, or i can just get matias clicks, which is readily available here, and faaar cheaper for some reason. but i don't know if it sounds good enough to replace these whites. if anyone ever used matias clicks, plz share ur thoughts
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I've been using Microsoft Natural Ergonomic 4000s for basically my whole life, and I still love it, but I figure that I should probably actually upgrade to a more "proper" (mechanical) keyboard someday. So, I've been idly looking for upgrade options, but I can't seem to find anything comparable. I use the numpad, the back/forward buttons near the bottom, I like having a proper function row as well as having separate media control keys (I'd love to have skip forward/skip back keys too), I even use the "home" and "calculator" keys relatively often, as well as stuff like print screen and page down. Obviously, it being ergonomic is a very key feature, but I don't want a fully separated in the middle keyboard, just the gentler curves like my current one would be best, along with the cushions of course. My budget isn't hard-capped, but I'd really rather not spend hundreds of dollars on a keyboard, especially since my current one is still working just fine. Honestly, mostly the goal is to find something as comparable to the Ergo 4000 as I can so if/when this one eventually does die I can get a new keyboard rather than scrounging eBay for a new used Ergo 4000 for too much money anyway. I don't care much about RGB outside of the fact that I'd love to be able to turn it off as much as possible at will, including even indicator lights if possible, since I find them distracting if I'm trying to properly watch something. I'd rather it not be wireless, but as long as it's rechargeable it's not a dealbreaker ig. To be honest, I don't mind the "membraneness" of my current keyboard, but that's probably because I'm so used to it, I'm sure going back would suck someday once I'm used to what actually modern keyboards feel like lol. So far everything I've found from my own searching has been missing at least some of the features I use on my current keyboard, often while being over $200, if not significantly higher. Thanks in advance for any advice or recommendations!
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Hello, I'm in need of a bit of help. I am not that experienced with keyboards and keyboard switches. I do know that when I felt some switches this week at a store, I had this amazing feel with these silver colored switches. Furthermore, I believe they are called Silver speed switches. Now, I am trying to find a mechanical keyboard that has those switches already, or if that I can only buy the switches separately and have to replace those switches with a new keyboard by using a solder gun. I would love to get some recommendations for a full factor keyboard that already has silver speed switches, and if not a keyboard recommendation that is just all out amazing to use. I currently have a few years old Corsair K68 cherry.
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I'm having this issue with my keyboard where it double-hits keys. I've had FOUR of these keyboards from various RMAs and it's still having the issue. The fix from Razer is to update the firmware, but that only fixes it for a day or so and it starts back to doing it. I keep my keyboards very clean, I'm certain it's not due to dirt. While the keyboard can be used wirelessly, I usually just keep it wired to my computer. I've used the same cable with other keyboards, including razer keyboards, and not had any issues with them. I really like the keyboard, it feels great and I like the flexibility of using bluetooth, usb wireless or usb c, as well as managing the RGB etc without external software, but I can't type on it because it double-types several letters. Razer has been useless, 4 RMAs and no resolution. Is there any other fix I'm not thinking of? Or do I have to bite the bullet and buy another keyboard? In that case, are there recommendations for others that have the same feature set? Thank you.
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Is there a guide for Y50-70 Palmrest/Keyboard/Trackpad replacement anywhere? Ive never worked on laptop before and am a little nervous but really want to do this. I already found a legit part source. Is full disassembly required or is there a simpler way? Thanks! -
I recently bought an EVGA Z20 and it just got delivered. I bought it because I like EVGA and want to support the company (I’m a fanboy). I didn’t understand the difference between switches so I just got the cheaper version with clicky switches. I didn’t realize how loud clicky switches were. I love the keyboard for everything but its sound, but that’s a deal breaker for me so I’m gonna return it. My current keyboard is a Redragon K552 and it’s already loud enough. If I bought the linear version of the EVGA Z20, would it be just as loud as/quieter than the K552? If not, are there any EVGA keyboards that could suit that requirement? If not that, does any one have a good recommendation for a keyboard that is not annoyingly loud? (I live with family) (Under $90) -
Hey guys, I have a fairly odd problem: When I boot up my laptop, it does not take input from the keyboard. I need to disconnect the keyboard's wire and reconnect it to have my laptop finally receive input from the keyboard. This did not happen with my other keyboard which I only just replaced 2 days ago. The keyboard is receiving power during this. I know this because the keyboard does have wireless capability. When I have the batteries turned off with a switch, with the keyboard plugged in to the laptop, the laptop receives input when the keyboard is in wireless mode. This also does not happen with a different laptop. So it's an issue specific to just this keyboard when used with the specific laptop. TLDR: Laptop doesn't take input from wired keyboard upon boot. Keyboard is receiving power. Laptop does receive input from the same keyboard if the keyboard is operating in wireless. Laptop does receive input after disconnecting and reconnecting the keyboard. Issue cannot be replicated with a different keyboard or laptop. Any help will be greatly appreciated! -
I have some confusion about these peripherals, So i want suggestion from you pls help me. Mouse : Logitech G502 hero VS Corsair harpoon RGB wireless Keyboard : XPG Summoner VS Redgear shadowblade Monitor : Lg Ultragear gn850 VS Gigabyte M27Q (rev2.0) Pls provide me suggestion!
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I have a Corsair K68 keyboard which appears to have bricked itself. I have reached out to Corsair support to try and obtain the firmware and flash it myself, and Corsair support has just stated that I am out of warranty. Wondering if anyone has any advice on how I proceed or perhaps the firmware file so I can attempt to fix this before buying a new keyboard. I saw someone have a similar issue on a corsair mouse, and they were provided with the firmware and instructions as to how to flash it. Would really appreciate any advice or firmware files. Thanks
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Hello! What is going on with this tsunami of mechanical keys chattering? It is my 2nd keyboard and from the first days, there is chattering. My first was a total failure, even after an RMA......
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i got in to a problem that lights on my keyboard light doesn't want to respond to Armoury create ( app that control lights on asus devices) nor to keyboard shortcuts. and it happened after my other Asus keyboard went crazy and didnt wanted to type anything and after i played ets where is custom keyboard light scheme. and now i cant change the keyboard lights and brightness and if i choose AURA SYNC lights that also animation stop playing. is ther any way to fix that armoury create version - 5.7.9.0 g703 HAL version - 2.5.35.0 aura service version - 3.07.23 AURA lighting effect add-on version - 0.0.42
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As title says, solo pressing CTRL now disables W if it's pressed down before W is pressed, if I let go of CTRL then W is engaged after about .5 seconds or so. If I press W and THEN CTRL it works just fine, it's only when CTRL is pressed before W. This happens on both CTRL keys so it's not a physical button issue. Holding down other keys together with CTRL like SHIFT or ALT enables the W key to function as normal It's as if CTRL+W is now trying to DO something very specific, but nothing happens. Keyboard in question is a Steelseries APEX Pro tkl. Never had an issue before, haven't downloaded anything new, nor really updated anything, issue just appeared out of nowhere. EDIT: Yes this happens in all games and on desktop applications. I have tried all the basic methods (restarts, plugging in n out and so forth) EDIT2: Here's a recording of what it looks like
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Background/Context: I have an older Corsair Strafe RGB (Silent Cherry Reds) from a few years ago that has problems with duplicating inputs when typing, specifically some of the keys will I do not specifically remember spilling liquid on the keyboard, but it is possible and if I did, was likely years ago. It worked for 1-2 years without issue and then started this behavior. I have since already replaced the keyboard with a working one, just trying to see if there is anything else I can do to prevent it becoming e-waste. Steps already taken: 1.) Tried on multiple different machines, Linux + Windows systems, behavior found on both operating systems *(linux is a home assistant pi-based system) 2.) Pulled all the key caps and cleaned with warm soapy water, let air dry for 2 days and replaced. No difference (none really expected, based on behavior) 3.) Pulled board out of the case and deep cleaned it with isopropyl alcohol - don't have microscope or anything like that but upon examining it didn't find any obvious shorts, corrosion, etc. 4.) Tried deep cleaning the switches (they are soldered into the board and not removable) with isopropyl alcohol into the switches, blowing air into the switches and letting them dry completely. -This seemed to help a bit, but eventually duplicated key strokes have returned. Duplication is not on every keystroke, about every 3-4 keystrokes you will get a repeated letter (ss, rr, gg, ll, etc), behavior goes in-between other letters if I type fast enough (ex. Transfer becomes Transfserr) I do not have any solder equipment so I don't really want to invest into equipment and learning. Can anyone think about any other steps I could do to try and make this keyboard more usable? Am trying to replace my crappy Lenovo keyboard provided by work on a work computer as I type a lot and the basic keyboard is horrible.
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Hi all, First things first im left handed, mouse in left and keyboard in rght hand, wasd had posion is terrible for me, i started to rebind keys based arround okl;. Essentially mirroring the key bindings of wasd. Doing this is hit and miss ith some games and/or impossible not to mention time consuming. Games like rainbow6 allows full key bindings but crisis 3 is bad. I can bind the general keys to okl; but tring to do that with the vehicle keys is impossible. I understand this isnt something that is the top of the list for developers. I'm surprised there isn't a standard switchable key layout you can do within games. Let alone spending half an hour or longer attempting to rebind keys to a usable position. A solution to this problem I thought of could be to buy a second keyboard, replace the okl; keys with wasd keys and rebind these keys within widows instead of the games. I can't see a reason why this wouldn't work. I just don't want to fork out money on another keyboard just yet an decrease desk space if I don't have to. What other solutions have other fellow lefties have to this niche problem?
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My 1st problem is whenever i turn ON the PC the keyboard doesn't work. It's a RGB keyboard, the lights and toggels key's light are ON with keyboard is not functional. I've to re-plug the keyboard then it works completely fine. My 2nd problem is my keyboard doesn't work on one of the USB port which is next to the PS/2 port on motherboard. I tried to connect the keyboard on other USB ports it works fine, i tried using mouse on the same USB port which is also working fine then why is not the keyboard.
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CQ, CQ, to keep it short: quite RGB(just to set it to low single-color tee-green) I don't game, my main usage is code, design, and drawing. I would like it not to be in your face design. I don't care for the 100% keyboards, but the number pad is a must budget 80-90Euros I'm writing my dissertation and getting frustrated with the force I need to hit the key while typing. my fingertips would appreciate your suggestions. Thanks
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Hello If you have a lot of time, please send me a link to a keyboard with these specs: Full size (100%) Separate (at least 7) multimedia keys (attachment) or 7 programable keys Backlit 4 special characters per key (attachment) USB wired "Normal" Enter and Backspace (attachment) (Optional) no high (regular) or chiclet profile keys (Optional) Czech (QWERTY) layout (Optional) full RGB maybe i'll add or remove some specs later
