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  1. Hello, I need help in buying a keyboard. Which one of the three should I chose? One of them has Outemu red switches and also full layout but isn't hot-swappable: Hator Rockfall - gaming keyboard | Hator official website official website. One of them has Gateron clear swithes and its bluetooth, TKL, USB-C connection, multimedia keys and it's hot-swappable: Skyfall TKL - Hator official website The last one has Kailh black optical switches and its TKL and it's hot-swappable: Rockfall EVO TKL - Hator official website PS: The outemu red is the cheapest, the kailh one is a little more expensive and the gateron one is the most expensive.
  2. Hi everyone I am about to buy a pre-assembled mechanical keyboard to play FPS Games and I am between two options, one has Outemu switches and the other with Kailh switches both in red. I'm interested in things like quality and sound (silent) which do you consider better? Also if you can recommend keyboards like this for less than 50USD in amazon thank you very much
  3. Hi. My mouse’s left switch is broken (pic attached). The switch just came out and won't go in. What switch types can be replaced with the stock ones of this Razer Deathadder 2000 dpi mouse (it came with the Cynosa Pro Bundle 2016 edition)? I don’t want to spend any further than $4 per switch. Please suggest the best recommendations available as of now. I am coming after watching the following video:
  4. Clicky Switch Round-Up Click Clack THOCK! Intro: The base idea of testing out a bunch of clicky switches is to expand my switch repertoire. Clickys are not my favorite, as I do not particularly like the excessive click noise. I find the click sound already had from a tactile switch is satisfying enough, and for the most part all the clickys I have tried are linears that require very little actuation force, which is already my least favorite switch. This all said there is variation, and trying something different is fun and I can learn along the way! For this test I will compare 4 different clicky switches, naturally crowing my favorite, and giving my thoughts as I conclude my comparison. Test Material: For this test I will be using my KDB67Lite R1 (now in R2), a budget 65% layout with 5-pin hot-swap sockets, ABS case with a polycarbonate back plate, and I have lubed the stabs with TriboSys 3204. The 4 different Clickys I have gone with are: Gateron Blue - MX Blue Clones, this is the standard Clicky switch that most think of in terms of Clickys, 55g Operating | 60g Bottom | 5-pin | $0.20 / switch KBDFans Gateron Green - MX Green Clones, these offer a heavy actuation force with a tactile feel, 65g Operating | 75g Bottom | 5-pin | $0.20 \ switch KBDFans Kailh Box White - Likely one of the most popular Clicky switches, sometimes referred to as a Box Blue as it features similar characteristics to the Blue, but with a Box stem, 50g Operating | 55g Bottom | 3-pin | $0.38 \ switch KBDFans Kailh Box Thick Jade - Box Jades, or Box Thick Clicks, feature the same spring as the Box White, but with a thicker clickbar, creating a distinguished tactile feel, 50g Operating | 60g Bottom | 3-pin | $0.42 \ switch KBDFans Sound Comparison: This is a sound comparison of the switches held in a acrylic case switch tester with blank caps, none of the switches will be lubed for any of the completed tests. Gateron Blue: MX Blue Switch Test.mp4 Gateron Green: MX Green Switch Test.mp4 Kailh Box White: Box White Switch Test.mp4 Kailh Box Thick Jade: Box Jade Switch Test.mp4 * Amplified audio by 28db * (Audio recorded with a Blue Snowball Mic, at approximately 15cm from the switch) Type Test: Gateron Blue: MX Blue Type Test.mp4 Gateron Green: MX Green Type Test.mp4 Kailh Box White: Box White Type Test.mp4 Kailh Box Thick Jade: Box Jade Type Test.mp4 * Amplified audio by 10db * (Audio recorded with a Blue Snowball Mic, at approximately 15cm from the keyboard) Quick Thoughts on the KBD67Lite: Pleasantly surprised in the value of this board. It offers a lot of features for the price, namely per-key RGB and hot-swap sockets in a 65% layout, however the main draw back would be the construction. While implemented well for an ABS case you do not get the rigidity and sturdiness of a more solid material (aluminum, steel, even wood, etc), on top of that I personally do not like polycarbonate switch plates and combined with the ABS case it gives a mushy feel that I am not a particularly huge fan of. But this also comes with the objective views of a user who prefers an aluminum case with a brass plate, so take this with a medium-sized grain of salt. For many buyers of the KBD67Lite I expect this to be their first custom mech, and for that buyer I can strongly recommend this. It is a great entry board that gets you in the market with good features and they did some things very well. I like the gasket mount design and the case foam also greatly helps overall feel. The fully QMK supported PCB is a welcome touch and the 5-pin Kailh hot-swap sockets is a must in a 2021 entry board, especially for 1st time buyers, and this is all done properly. Now I will note that R2 is now in production and brings in a wireless version as well as wired, but you lose per-key RGB for the wireless board, and it no longer comes pre-assembled, which for many is likely not an issue, but for a few buyers it could be a deal breaker. All of this for $109usd (r1) is a great deal, and while R2 is coming in at $135, I still see this an attractive option for many buyers. My one some-what significant complaint is that many of the 5-pin switches are not able to fully click into place, or a lot of force is required, so they can either fall out (not that easily though) or come out when the keycap is removed. When I contacted KBDFans they did not elaborate much other than this could be a slight variance within manufacturing and that the updated Injection molding plate in R2 vs the CNC plate in R1 should address the issue. I am not sure if this is a one off or if this is somewhat wide spread, but I could not find similar complaints . At least this is not an issue with 3-pin switches and it my opinion this has something to do with the PCB and not the plate, but only time will tell. Full review of the KBD67Lite coming soon! Conclusion: Gateron Blue - Of the 4 this comes in dead last, the 'click' is loud enough that for those who like the sound it will suffice, however the light weight actuation and feel is not of my preference. They have a scratchy feel on keystroke and when typing slower the sound of the metal leaf is not pleasant, it sounds twangy and this feels like I am scraping the bottom of the barrel. Switch preference is all about what a user likes but I don't see how this would be a favorite of anyone's, if you like clickys the next on the list is far better, it has a similar actuation weight, but improves on the main drawbacks of the MX /Gat Blue. Kailh Box White - Between this and the Gat Green it was a very close call but the Box White is 3rd on my list, although objectively it is the second best switch here (will elaborate). This is everything a novel clicky switch should be, it gives off the right 'click' sound and has a similar feel to the Gat Blue however all the drawbacks of the scratchy keystroke feel and twangy sound from the leaf are not present. You get the stability of a box switch and this eliminates keycap 'wobble' making this a nice linear clicky typing experience, if that is your thing. Gateron Green - As mentioned, I have some elaborating to do. The Kailh Box White is objectively the better switch, but I prefer a heavier switch, and the MX / Gat Green is just that, a heavy clicky switch with a somewhat pronounced bump in the keystroke similar to a tactile (similar to a Kailh Pro Purple, the tactile bump is not very distinguished, but it is there). And this is why my bias places it ahead of the Box White, I prefer a heavier tactile switch. Now on to the sound, it has a similar profile to the Gat Blue but it does not sound or feel as scratchy, although the scratchy feel is still somewhat present. If you like a heavier clicky switch this is a great option, although our final candidate takes the cherry. Kailh Box Thick Jade - Lets take what's good about the Box White, and the Gat Green. Okay so no scratchy feel or sound, check. A nice loud pronounced 'clack', check. Stability of a box switch, check. A heavier switch with more actuation required, check. And lastly, a nice tactile bump, check-mate! This is my number one choice of the 4 tested, it is the best feeling for typing, with a very distinguished tactile bump about half-way through the keystroke, and with more actuation required vs the Box White, this nails it for me. Again I do not prefer Clicky switches over Tactile or Linear, but in terms of type feel this is without a question my number one choice of the 4 tested. To summarize, I can categorize this switch test into two easy recommendations, if you like clicky switches and prefer a linear switch, get the Box White, if you prefer tactile, get the Box Thick Jade. I will admit that there are other Box clicky switches, but these two are extremely popular for a reason.
  5. The Kailh Box Jade is one of the most famous clicky switches in the mechanical keyboard scene, boasting a thick click bar, MX stem with a box, and moderate afforadability at around $0.34 at any major mechanical keyboard switch retailer. I have owned and use Kailh Box Jades for a month on my main keyboard and have experienced great joy from using these particular switches, they have a consistent click and actuation, and the sound of them is crisp and full, compared to that of the Cherry Blue's click jacket, which in contrasts sound hollow, dull, plasticky, and unapologetically cheap. The Kailh Box Jades were my second major mechanical keyswitch, the first being the Outemu Blue in my previous E-Element Z-88 mechanical keyboard. The Jades blow the Blues out of the water in every single way. As mentioned earlier, the Kailh Box Jade feature what is called a click bar,the small metal, paperclip-like bar in the middle of the bottom housing, this in conjunction with the stem leg on the switch's stem is what creates the satisfying, full, punchy click of the Kailh Box Jade. The click feels as good as it sounds. The super thick click bar generates a very loud, typewriter-like sound signature that exudes pleasure on every keypress. It is that good of a keyswitch and I would easily call these the best clicky switch available to buy on the market at present. The box around the stem is not just for aesthetics either, it's for dust protection as well as keycap stability. The housing is made by Kailh and does feature the traditional four pegs but rather only two clips on the side which shows in the unique bottom housing and the stem to accomodate. As a result, frankensteining these switches with other switches such as Gateron Blues or Zealios will not work. I have however had luck swapping the springs an dstems of the Kailh Box Jades and Pale Blues as they both feature the Kailh housing. My one complaint about the switch is its weight, at stock, it takes approximately 70-73g of force to overcome the click followed by 50g of force to actuate after the initial bump. I found this heavy after long sessions, although your mileage may vary, and I am a fan of light linear switches, so a fairly heavy clicky switch like this was not in my alley. I believe if you are able to have the finger stamina to type on these switches, you'll find them very satisfying, just as I did. I believe the weight is what creates that heavy and full click, as I imagine a lighter spring or thinner click bar would result in a quieter, toned-down, crumbled down click compared to the crisp clean click of the Kailh Box Jade. As a complete package, the Kailh Box Jade is easily my favorite clicky switch. It has a crisp & sharp click thanks to that thick click bar and decent weight albeit a bit heavy for my tastes. I have not had the opportunity to use the Kailh Box Navy, the Jade's heavier brother, but I would assume with my glaring concern regarding weight and finger fatigue of the Jade, that I would find the Navy a bit overbearing for my fingers, and I find the Jade the perfect mix of click and actuation.
  6. The NovelKeys Creams are a linear switch made by NovelKeys in partnership with Kailh. This switch is the first of its for Kailh as it features a traditional MX stem and MX-style latching for the housing, and I'd say Kailh have done fairy well. These switches are made using an al-POM housing - that's DuPont POM Plastics - and also for the stem. POM has been used in this switch as it is often referred to as self-lubricating, which due to the nature of lubing, means that it will naturally be super smooth. I've used these switches for a month in my 60% keyboard and here's my experience of it. Believe it or not, this was my first linear switch I had ever used in my mechanical keyboard life, so I was on neutral ground for what to expect. For context, I was using the Kailh Box Jades, so transitioning from those heavy clicky switches to the NovelKeys Creams was quite the leap. I found the stock experience to be a nice one, being that it was my fitst linear switch. I found the POM material to be satisfyingly smooth to type on, and they sounded nice as well stock. They sound like pressing on soft, fine powder. The 'self-lubricating' deal appeared to be a true statement. The stem of the NovelKeys Cream is a standard linear stem, with the legs being fairly cut and dry in design, and the slider also sharing the same design as many other stems. The bottom of the slider was chamfered rather than right-angled, which interestingly made the bottom-out less harsh and more soft compared to most other linears such as Gateron Reds or Tealios. The POM material was an excellent choice by NovelKeys as it creates a nice stock experience. Unfortunately for the NovelKeys Cream, it is not kind to lube at all, no matter lubed with thick or thin lubes. I lubed the Cream with both Tribosys 3204 in a thin layer and then a noticeably thicker layer, but the Creams do not play well with thin lube at all, and the lube will often slip around rather than adhering to the POM material. The same story goes for Krytox 205g0, which is a thicker lube than Tribosys 3204. I also applied an appropriately-thin amount as well as a thick film of lube, still no avail. It it such a shame that the Creams don't do well with lube, as I'm a linear keyswitch enthusiast who lubes all her linears, and I mean all, so the Creams remaining unlubed puts them a peg down from my lubed linears. I prefer lubed Gateron Reds/Yellows to the NovelKeys Creams because of this lube issue. Overall, I'd say while the NovelKeys Creams aren't good with lube, I would say they are an excellent, if not the best stock linear stock for any mechanical keyboard enthusiast. The POM material is excellent and it makes for a nice stock switch experience. I would say NovelKeys Creams are like if you took a linear switch like a Gateron Yellow lubed, but the lube is substituted with a lot of powder. It is a very different kind of typing experience and feel. While the Creams are fairly expensive at $6.50 for a pack of 10 over at NovelKeys' website, they are a definite top 2 stock linear switch.
  7. I'm looking at getting some o rings for my logitech g pro x and I found a sweet deal on some cherry mx ones, do they fit on kailhs?
  8. Hi, I have these two alternatives:http://www.ttesports.com/Keyboard/201/POSEIDON_Z_RGB_Brown_Switch_Edition_/productPage.htm?a=a&g=ftr#.WJAkU9V96Ukhttp://gskill.com/en/product/ripjaws-km570-mx--cherry-mx-redWhere I live, these two are available within my budget and they cost the same(~100$). Gaming would be my first priority with typing being a close second.Now Pros of g.skill KM570 MX for me:1. Cherry MX Switches2. Available on Cherry MX Red which are supposedly better for FPS and fast-paced games though this is a very subjective verdict. Brown and Blue are also available.Cons:1. No RGB or software customization.2. Hardly any review online apart from guru3d.com maybe because this keyboard is quite new.Pros of Thermaltake Poseidon Z RGB:1. Basically from its feature sets like RGB lighting, keyboard customization by software, cable routing etc - it feels like a product of a higher-price category sold in mid-range price.2. Has lots of reviews online - mostly positive - implying its a trendy keyboard.Cons:1. Kailh switches (its supposedly inferior to Cherry MX though again its very subjective)2. Poseidon Z is not available on Kailh Red. Only Brown and Blue are available.I am coming from a normal membrane keyboard. So I've literally no experience typing on a mechanical one. Though I do have spent good 6/8 hours researching on various key types, brands etc.Also just before publishing here I read that:https://www.furiouspaul.com/articles/cherry-mx-keyboard-switches.htmlIt basically says Red/Black switches are worse for gaming compared to the Brown/Blue !! It's all gettting so confusing...So which one would you prefer of the two and why?? Your opinion would be much appreciated.Also I want to know your thoughts on the "cherry mx brown or red" topic. I know its an endless subjective debate and has already read a lot about it online. Still just because I've never used a mechanical keyboard and its not possible for me to test the keys before buying, any feedback on "brown vs red" topic will be welcome. Edited by Driimit - Yesterday at 12:22 pm View History
  9. Hello all, I'm looking to get my first mechanical keyboard, but unfortunately I'm pretty strapped for cash at the moment. I'm wondering what your experience has been with "alternative" mechanical switches, as they tend to be a lot cheaper than the Cherry equivalents. Which ones have you used? How did they compare? Any recommendations? I'm aiming to get something with brown or brown-ish switches, the cheaper the better. Any and all advice or input is appreciated, thanks!
  10. Guys. I need to get suggestions from you real quick. Actually, there is a sale going on in my place. The keyboards on discounted sale are TT esports Meka Pro with cherry Mx blue switches and TT esports Poseidon z rgb with kailh blue switches. Both of them cost the same. But the cherry MX blue one has only 2-year warranty. And the Kailh blue one has 5-year warranty. Can you suggest me which one to choose? Which one is more reliable? Any personal experience sharing is an added bonus.
  11. Hello! :'( BACK STORY so I bought this keyboard Poseidon Z RGB by Thermaltake, from a random computer store not so reputable, I got it used for 3000rs, round about 30USD the guy before hand told me this keyboard has problems, but I bought it thinking I would be able to fix it he gave me without the box or any accessories just the plain keyboard THE ISSUES 1) - it had severe amount of chatter 2) - some keys did not work until pressed really hard so about the chatter, the guy told me about the chatter, and online i found a software that counters it , if there is a better fix that works, Plz do tell things I tried to counter the 2nd issue 1- updated the driver and firmware 2- removed the keycap, pressed the switch and blew on it Additional info 1) the switches are kailh blue 2) im from pakistan , there are no customer support or warranties 3) some one suggested i spray the keyboard and switches with WD-40 and let it dry out 4) this is my first mechanical keyboard 5) im poor , my monthly allowance is around 30$ and most of the time i am not even given that because of financial problems MY THOUGHTS on this KEYBOARD I F---ing love this thing, it so BEAUTIFUL and feels amazing to type on it, Please , PLEASE ! help me fix it , typing feels amazing however is a mess when we see the text typed , and if there is type of info needed please do tell
  12. Yesterday I bought a Gigabyte Force K85 mechanical keyboard [link]. The cost seemed fairly reasonable for a fully mechanical rgb keyboard. But the fact is before buying I didn't check any review on this one. Now my variant has Kailh Blue switches, and I do seem to like the feel of the switches. But as this is my first mechanical keyboard, also it has got a lot of bad reviews, do I need to follow any guidelines or careful uses in order to make it last at least a year or 2? Does anyone in this forum have experience with this keyboard. Please share your advice :). Thank you.
  13. Whats the difference between Kailh switches and Greentech switches from razer? how do they compare to cherry mx blue?
  14. I've been searching for the IDEAL clicky gaming switch. I love the feel of a clicky switch but I don't want to sacrifice in-game responsiveness. For those of you who have used the Kailh Speed Bronze, would you recommend it over other clicky switches (for both gaming and typing)?
  15. Source: Logitech G | Kailh Twitter Logitech G announced their new Logitech G915 Lightspeed wireless gaming keyboard which features the new Kailh Low-Profile Choc switches. I find it awesome that a big player in the gaming peripherals market opted to go for Kailh switches, and unexpectedly Kailh low-profile ones. I'm going to assume Logitech wanted the thinnest possible wireless gaming keyboard and they had to go Kailh low-profile for that to happen. Logitech defines these new switches as their new low-profile switches on their website, so it appears that they have sourced Kailh to manufacture their switches, although those switches definitely look like Kailh Chocs. The GL clicky, tacitle, and linear appear to be Kailh's Choc White, Brown, and Red respectively. The G915 features the new Lightspeed wireless technology found in other peripherals such as the G305 Lightspeed and the G502 Lightspeed, which in a nutshell means it's wireless and has blink-fast response times. This announcement as I voiced before came as a surprise because it features Kailh Choc switches. It's a nice new creation on Logitech's part to create a low-profile, full-sized keyboard featuring those premium switches. The G915 Lightspeed definitely reminds me of Roccat's own Vulcan, which is Roccat's low-profile keyboard featuring their own low-profile switches.
  16. I'm planning to make a bomb AF keyboard since I'm currently not satisfied with the keyboards I pick up (HyperX alloy elite and g512 silver) and decided I want to experience making a "CRAFT" keyboard that I make on my own and to my question does anyone here know of budget kits that includes the PCB, stabilizers, case and everything else except for the switches and keycaps I already have sources where I can get it but I'm still curious if I can get it cheaper
  17. so i found a keyboard(GigaByte Force K81(for €35) with kailh red switches and what i've heard is that the switches are really bad. Does anyone know if they're still bad because the only article i could find were the ones back in 2015 and 2016. Please let me know if you have any experience with Kailh red switches and or the GigaByte Force K81 edit: i mainly wanna play csgo and osu on it
  18. Hi! I just would like to know which key switch is better quality, like smoothness and wobbliness: Gateron reds or Kailh Pro burgundys. I know they are both great, I would just like to know which one is probably better without modding. Thank you!
  19. Introduction: Today I have tested 5 versions of the popular Black lines of Kailh, Gateron and Cherry. I'll be giving out up to 5 points per switch, giving 5 to the best, 1 to the worst on each part. This is all based off opinion, and your preference may vary on some parts. Gateron Black: Key stability: 3/5 RGB passthrough: 2/5 Lubing: 3/5 Sound: 2/5 Smoothness: 3/5 Weight: 5/5 Value: 5/5 To start with the cheapest of the line: Gateron black. They can be found for as low as 20 cents/switch and are a great step-in point if you want something that feels like a heavier red. Their key stability is decent, RGB passthrough unfortunately really not good, for this you should get an RGB version. Their smoothness is actually quite decent for the price, especially after lubing i did enjoy the quick session of gaming i did with it. with their lower travel and relatively light weight compared to others I'd sure recommend it. Gallary: Gateron Milk Black: Key stability: 4/5 RGB passthrough: 3/5 Lubing: 4/5 Sound: 4/5 Smoothness: 2/5 Weight: 4/5 value 4/5 Then a slightly different, but similar switch. Gateron's Milk black has a top housing that's white rather than transparent, giving it a bit of a special look. I felt like the key stability on it was a bit better, the RGB passthrough are still wishes to be found, but it's still better than the normal one as well. I felt a bit of sand-like feeling at stock, but a lot of it lost when I lubed it. the sound of it becomes a bit clacky when doing this as well. the smoothness on itself I gave rather low because of its stock performance. the weight is highly enjoyable for the short session I played, though the normal ones felt a little better on this. because they generally cost only a little more than regular blacks (24c/switch), I’m giving them a 4/5 on value. Gallery: Gateron Ink Black: Key stability: 1/5 RGB passthrough: 4/5 Lubing: 5/5 Sound: 5/5 Smoothness: 5/5 Weight: 2/5 value: 2/5 then, the most expensive out of this lineup. the switch is easy to recognize by its smoky black housing, which seems to give a lot of the incredible smoothness to the switch. the key stability looks bad this way, but i felt like it was the worst from the 5 that i tried. the RGB passthrough is a bit dark because of the housing, but does come through decently. lubing it gives it even a little more smoothness, rivalling it with the well-known and personally used Tealios. their weight unfortunately felt a bit heavy for me at bottom out for gaming, but would be very enjoyable if you're purely typing. because of their high price tag of at minimum 0,75 cents/switch, their value is of course not that high rated, but if you're looking for something really smooth and don't want to pay the premium for something like Tealios, this is the option to go for. Gallery: Kailh Box Black: Key stability: 5/5 RGB passthrough: 5/5 Lubing: 2/5 Sound: 3/5 Smoothness: 4/5 Weight: 3/5 value: 3/5 Kailh box black is a bit of a different formfactor, and takes it's name from it's "box" around the switch stem. because of this the key stability is simply unrivalled by the others. their RGB passthrough is also the best out of these switches, as Kailh used a transparent housing on the switch. the lubing is decent, but doesn't feel that needed on it compared to the others. their smoothness is decent, though the feeling between the actuation point and bottom out was for me hard to feel. as they're more expensive than the Gateron milk and regular black, I felt like a 3/5 value would be fair for it. Gallery: Cherry MX Black: Key stability: 2/5 RGB passthrough: 1/5 Lubing: 1/5 Sound: 1/5 Smoothness: 1/5 weight: 1/5 value: 1/5 It almost feels like i just chose these numbers to shit on cherry here... but this really was how I felt about it. the key stability of it is decent, but nothing special compared to Gateron, it's RGB passthrough on this version is about nothing, since the fully black switch blocks the light on my keyboard. the lubing made the already sandpaper-like feel of the switch even worse, which also gives a sound while you’re typing on it. the weight of it felt on the heavy side for me and because I have so many complaints, while this is the second most expensive switch in the line, the 1/5 value makes it a worse one than the most expensive switch in the lineup. Gallery: Verdict: Gateron Black: very cheap (~20c), decent weight for gaming and typing, smooth, worth lubing but recommended to get the RGB version if needed. Gateron Milk Black: cheap (~24c), nice weight for gaming and typing, relatively smooth, but a bit sand-like feel at stock, RGB passthrough not well. Gateron Ink Black: expensive (~75c), but the smoothest black switch out there, very nice clacky sound, RGB passthrough doable, but not ideal. Kailh Box Black: well-priced (~40c), extremely good key stabilization, pretty smooth, not that worthy to lube, RGB passthrough is good. Cherry MX Black: middle ground price (~40c), sandpaper-like feeling, mediocre sound, key stability, lubing makes the sand-like feel even worse, RGB gets completely blocked, so recommended is to get the RGB version.
  20. AL1V3

    Which swtch

    So im gonna build a keybaord and im use to using 50cN keyswitchs (cuz i use romerg tactiles) but i want to be in the linear side so i weant on youtube and found some switches, the problem is: which one? there is the gateron blacks, kailh Pro burgundy, gateron yellow,and kailh speed silver. So to anyone that knows any of these switches that are basically the same, which one do you guys recommend? Edit: btw can i remove the plate from the massdrop alt/ctrl cuz i want to band aid mod my pcb
  21. Hi! I have been thinking about getting the ducky one 2 mini. https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=5027. This is the site I was seeing it from. I thought that the ducky only came with Cherry MX switches. For some reason, kailh pro and a type of box switches are also an option for the ducky. When you choose a kailh switch for the ducky, it says kailh switches restock on March 5. I thought that was weird, because I thought you could only get Cherry switches with the ducky. Is it some kind of exclusive offer with mechanicalkeyboards.com, or is it a glitch or scam? Any information would be welcomed. Thank you!
  22. Introduction and Parts Selection Everyone has seen the Logitech G710. It's a large, high profile, mostly grey, mechanical keyboard with Cherry MX Blue switches, some macro keys and media controls. The case is all plastic, with a metal mounting plate. Overall, it's fairly sturdy, with little to no flex. Here is a picture of the keyboard: It looks decent, but not great. Especially that blue part around the macro keys stands out, but not in a good way. Glossy plastic is as bad as ever; fingerprints and oils everywhere. The mounting plate is black. Newer keyboards often have white plates, which makes for much more, and more even underglow. And the MX Blue switches are tactile for Cherry switches, but you can get far more tactile switches. And the sound is not that great, compared to some other switches. This is where the mod comes in. Painting the mounting plate white is obvious. And because the rest of my room is white, I also wanted to paint the keyboard white. For switches, I went with the Kailh/Novelkeys BOX Jade switches. These are relatively new switches made by Kailh. They are compatible with Cherry MX keycaps, plates and pins. There are, however, some major differences. They have a box around the stem, and around the contact point. This makes them rated IP56 and for 80 million key presses. This is compared to the Cherry MX, whish is rated IP40 and for 50 million key presses. The clicky switches also have another difference: the tactility and sound comes from a click bar, instead of a click jacket. This makes the sound and tactility much sharper, and it produces a click on both the upstroke and the downstroke. On Cherry MX switches, the sound is a bit more rattly, and it produces a clicky sound only on the downstroke. The tactile feedback is also less defined. On the normal BOX White, the click bar is 0,25mm thick. On the BOX Jade, the click bar is 0,30mm thick. This makes the switch much more tactile, and the sound deeper. This is the switch I chose to replace the MX Blues on my G710 with. Due to the BOX switches being enclosed, they don't support the 3mm through hole LEDs on my G710. They officially only support SMD LEDs. However, the LED can also fit inside the switch. For the linear and tactile switches, this can be 1,8mm or 2x3x4mm through hole LEDs. The clickly switches only support 1,8mm through hole LEDs, due to the click bar. I therefore chose 1,8mm LEDs for my project. Due to tax reasons, I went for 68 BOX Jade switches, and 50 Gateron Green switches. Green switches use a heavier spring than the Blues, but are otherwise identical. The Gaterons are Cherry MX clones, but are often considered to be better than the Cherrys. They are also transparent, so I can mount the LEDs inside the switches. This means that the lighting will be more even, than if I had mounted the LEDs on top of the Gaterons, but inside the BOX switches. The Mod Itself Disassembly The first step is obviously removing the keycaps. The case of the G710 is held together with plastic clips and 14 philips head screws, all on the underside, and none of them are hidden. The volume control is still attached to the top part of the case, and with a cable to the main PCB. The PCB is connected to two additional cables, and the plate is connected to a grounding point. Now, I can start disconnecting the cables, and removing the PCB and mounting plate from the case. Again, screws. I'm painting the top part of the case, so I'm also disassembling that. There are a bunch of plastic tabs and melted plastic rivets. The tabs are enough to hold it together, so just cut the plastic rivets with a box cutter knife. After doing that, it comes apart into 3 pieces. The metal logo is held in with two screws. Desoldering Each switch has two electrical pins. Each LED also has two pins. The keyboard has the 105 ISO keys + 6 programmable keys. This means it's 444 points to desolder, and later solder. Desoldering was done using a soldering iron and solder wick. The wick was placed on the solder joint. Then the iron was placed on the soldering wick for a few seconds. The solder was sucked into the wick. Surprisingly easy. After desoldering those, I can remove the switches and LEDs from the mounting plate. (the fan is a molex powered fan, connected to a "1200W" PSU) The stabilisers were also removed. They are held in with clips, which just have to be pushed in. Painting  I hadn't done this before, so I just chose some cheap matte white paint and primer. First, I sanded all of the parts. Then, I applied a few coats of primer, and then some coats of white paint. (I didn't take pictures of the process.) Finding spray painting tutorials should be fairly easy. While I was doing this, I had soaked the keycaps in soapy water. Soldering and Reassembly Now it's time to solder in the new key switches. This is how I laid out the switches: Through hole soldering is really easy. Heat up the pin and the ring on the PCB for a few seconds, feed in a little bit of solder. The stabilisers were inserted into the plate before soldering. The LEDs have to go in first. Make sure to have the polarity correct, as LEDs are diodes. This is marked on the PCB, and the longer pin is the cathode (positive, +). I soldered in the LEDs in the corners, and then the switches in the corners (the G1, G6, numpad Enter and numpad minus). While doing so, an extra pair of hands was used in order to hold the plate together with the PCB. The extra length of the pins was cut off with a pair of metal cutting things. After doing so, the rest of the LEDs were soldered on. The switches were mounted to the plate, but not soldered on. This was to ensure the LEDs fit. Once all of the switches were in the plate, they were soldered on. The reassembly was fairly simple... Undo the steps from the disassembly. I ended up with a screw left over... oops Result In comparison, here's the mounting plate when it's black. Conclusion  All together, this project took me four days. I did one step per day, from Friday to Monday. I'm fairly happy with how it turned out. It looks decent, and the switches are much nicer to type on. The glow from the white mounting plate looks really nice, and the white colour makes it a bit more special than the standard black/gray/blue G710. The switches are fun to type on, and the MX Blues feel almost linear in comparison. I went from ~80 to ~90 WPM on Typeracer, which is nice (but still not that good). The sound is also different, and nicer. Due to never having spray painted before, the main issues lie with that. The plate turned out perfect, as it's just a flat piece. The blue plastic part around the macro keys, and the glossy black part around the main keys turned out fine. They are also mostly flat. The big grey part of the case, however... I decided to mask the thing in several places, due to concerns about the parts fitting together. I didn't do a good job, so where I masked has these ridges on them. In retrospect, I probably didn't need to mask them, so I should just have left them and painted. Also, I have noticed LEDs on some of the keys have warmer tones than the rest. This is most noticeable on the Scroll Lock key. I didn't realise this until I had reassembled it and put it on my table, but you can clearly see it in some earlier pictures. Typing Tests With Cherry MX Blues With Kailh BOX Jades. The space bar makes a much louder sound, that's not just the camera. All of the pictures and videos were taken using my Oneplus 3.
  23. I’m thinking on getting the ducky one 2 mini pure white, I was thinking on getting it with cherry mx reds but heard they aren’t the best. The keyboard also comes with Kailh box whites, speed copper and speed pro burgundy. So my question is are Kailh switches good and if so what one should I go with out of the 3 or should I stick to cherry mx
  24. So hello guys, I am looking to buy a new keyboard, I want a quite(ish) switch with a tactile bump and a fairly light switch, so I decided to look for one with a brown switch (please suggest if there are other options). And there are so many switches now, but I have heard that some of the brown switches are almost linear, so could you guys recommend witch ones are the most tactile and smooth (I don't want one too scratchy) thanks guys.
  25. Switch preferences (preferably reply if you've used any of these)? Both listed on Massdrop (Kailh drop active now) for $25, and thinking of upgrading my $40 TKL with blue Outemus. Heard from a lot of people that Gaterons are a lot better, but the 1.1 mm travel distance on the Kailh is very attractive. If you think there's anything else that's worth upgrading (total budget preferably under 40 USD), then I'd be happy to hear it. Options as well as what I'm looking for listed below. Current Keyboard: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5F6W51/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_NYqIAb8B60P84 Gateron Switch Options (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/gateron-switches): Blacks Blues Browns Clears Greens Reds Yellows Kailh Speed Switch Options (https://www.massdrop.com/buy/kaihua-kailh-speed-switches): Copper Silver Bronze Gold What I'm looking for (little more typing than gaming, lots hate blues for gaming, but seem fine to me) (in order of importance): Near silent (Current Outemu blues extremely loud, maybe replace cheap metal top plate too?) Short travel distance (Current Outemu blues ~4 mm) Fast rebound times (Current Outemu blues seem to take forever to rebound, especially shift. (Swap stabilizers?)) Little wobble Sorry that I'm asking so much, but I really want the best I can get for my use. Thanks!
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